Hydraulic Clutch 101, How to Pick Correct Size Master & Slave Cylinder for a Hydraulic Clutch
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 มิ.ย. 2023
- I am starting a hydraulic clutch series that goes over some of the info to correctly put together a hydraulic clutch. We kick off this series with a video on calculating the correct master and slave cylinder size.
- ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
i just bought the 94/95 kit and can tell you the quality is top notch. i had some questions and they were answered quickly.thanks again daze youre great
Glad you like it, and thanks for the shoutout!
Day is top notch!! He was willing to answer all my questions and came up with a solution to getting his kit to work with my setup in my COBRA. I am sure that I will continue to conduct business with Day.
Glad I could help!!!
Excellent presentation, and will be buying the 13/16's by 3/4" master and slave kits shortly for a '6Griffith, and reccomending your site to everyone who's working with hydrallic clutch sets, Thank You so much!
don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions or if I can be of any further assistance.
Very helpful video, thanks. I disassembled the OEM clutch master Cylinder, cleaned it all up, measured the "piston/plunger" diameter, the housing bore inner diameter, reassembled and then measured stroke...followed your match and now know will not work with your slave set up; so I can buy one that will.
I offer a smaller 3/4" slave with for ll my kits as well
@@dazecars Yes, I saw and was hoping my OEM set up would work, It's only a 5/8" bore x 1.25 stroke. If I did the math correctly that yields only .383 Cubic Inches of FV, where at 90% of the 3/4" bore you sell, minimum required is .396 cubic inches. I'm shopping master cylinders for my application now. Ford drive train in a non ford chassis.I'll be reaching out for your SN95 kit soon.
email me through my website and I may be able to help you find the correct parts for your application. Even if you don't get anything through me I'm happy to help.@@chestrockwell8328
Great video What percentage reduction of energy will you see in clutch pedal application force by adding a master and slave to a S10 t5 currently using a 3 fork 1100 lb clutch?
It doesn't work that way. The 1100 is the clamping force. From there you have three ratios that all reduce that effort: clutch fork ratio, pedal ratio, and hydraulic ratio. The video that will be out Saturday morning goes over pedal ratio and hydraulic ratio.
Great content. I'm putting a T5 into a Sunbeam Alpine behind a 1985 Ford 2.8 V6. The Alpine owners group has a lot of information and parts available but there's not a lot of the information you cover in this video series. Not sure which hydraulic clutch parts I'll use but your videos are very helpful in understanding the work that's before me. Thanks. I'll be sure to write if I have questions. Jamie
Glad I was able to help. Please don't hesitate to reach out if I can be of any further assistance.
Helped alot
fantastic
Great video, I'm interested in making my 2003 Jeep TJ clutch softer less pressure. It has the t3550 5 speed. What do you recommend for master and slave cylinder. OR pedal hole location leverage???
I have a kit for the 3550 but if you are wanting to do your own thing you need a MC SC combo where the bore of the MC is smaller than the SC but has enough fluid volume to get you 1" of stroke at the SC. As to connecting to the pedal you need to mount the MC where there is room, and connect it to the pedal in such a way that full pedal stroke equals full MC stroke. Some timee this is a slight compromise. Also you need the MC pushrod to be perfectly in line with the MC at 1/2 stroke.
Thank you I will be contacting and purchasing from you
Don't hesitate to reach out if any questions come up
thanks for the video.... i am working on an oldie, and thinking about converting to hydraulic. it is a 1960, 3-speed tranny out of a corvette..... do you have any recommendations on a setup for that? (or a kit?)
I don't have anything for that application and m not familiar with those parts.
I have a T-5 transmission from a 1993 4 cylinder 2.3L mustang and want to swap it into my 1965 mustang with 289 with C4 automatic. Will this work? And what kit of yours would be the best …? Appreciate your support!!
the 65-66 kit, MC, and line kit would get it done. You will need a T5 specific bellhousing not an old school bell with adapter. Keep in mind the gearing on a 2.3 T5 is quite a bit different than a V8 T5 and first gear will not be of much use unless you have high gears in the rear. Also they are not as strong as a V8 t5 so be careful
Thanks for the info man. I am building a buggy with a CBR 1000rr engine. I am hoping to use a hydraulic clutch. I am having trouble finding the right size cylinder. ❤old you have any ideas of what I can utilize?
Thanks
your question is too ambiguous. As long as you correctly match the master and slave to get correct slave stroke they can be any size as long as ratio between the two stays the same. To come up with a matched set you must first figure out how much stroke is required at the slave. from there you can work backwards to get a matched set that fits in the space available. Sometimes a compromise has to be made to get it to work.
@@dazecars thank you sir. I believe I have it sorted out at this point. If I am mistaken I will contact you again for some pointers.
Thanks again.
Contact me through my website if any questions come up
I am interested to install the kit that you sell. I have a 68 Mustang with a T5 and Power Brakes. Is there enough room to mount the master cylinder without interference from the booster?
It is a very tight fit BUT I have not had any customers say it didn't fit. With a remote reservoir you can clock it to the side giving a lot more room to fit things.
I have a 65 malibu chevelle. I have a mechanical clutch linkage. I swapped to a ls3 with a TR6060. The trans has the stock slave cylinder. What master cylinder should I use?
I would love to help you but you have not provided any information I can use. I would need to know the desired stroke at the TR6060 slave and the bore of that slave to even begin to calculate the master cylinder size.
I have a 1979 Jeep CJ7 that has a T-150 transmission. I’d like to convert to hydraulic. The stock CJ master is 13/16, I’ll need to get the stroke and volume, but I’m not averse to getting a non stock, like Wilwood or other brand.
Would you have an adapter bracket for the slave in this application?
Thanks!!
I do not have an adapter for that application, but I can help you with your project. First thing we need to know is how much stroke is required at the SC. Enother words how far dues the clutch fork need to move to actuate the clutch. With that info we can work backwards and figure out what size SC you need to work with the MC you already have. Depending on the resulting SC size there could be the potential for a stiff pedal at which point the combination of master and slave might need to be adjusted to get the right balance but all this can be done with calculations once I know the required SC stroke.
@@dazecars the stroke is 1.5in on my 13/16 bore master cylinder.
How much stroke is required to actuate the clutch?
I have a question. What does the brake master cylinder have to do with the t5 transmission? Can I still use my power brake booster?
They are unrelated. The only time they would be related is if the brake master and the clutch master are trying to take up the same space. No clue if your power booster will be an issue as I don't know the year make and model of your car OR truck
Does your kit use the t5 or the toploader fork? Thanks
T5 clutch fork. My kits push from back to front.
Hi mate, i know its a looong shoot, but i need to ask you somethin, i got a hilux ( europeean version of tacoma), with all clutch components new, and the clutch pedal its still heavy to press for my lady, my question is, should i change the slave cylinder with a smaller bore one, or with a larger bore ? Thanks you very much, any other ideas are wellcome.
If it were simple it would be putting a bigger bore SC in the car BUT that requires more fluid volume at the MC to get the same amopunt of travel at the SC. So it may not work to change out the SC. If it was me I would figure out the fluid volume at the MC and then get a smaller bore SC that has enough stroke to result in the same flide volume. This will give you a softer pedal and the clutch will still work as designed.
@@dazecars Thank you very much
let me know if any other questions come up
Do you have anything for to make for a78 f250 master cylinder
depending on what transmission you have my universal kits should work at the transmission side. Figuring out the MC side would require some fabrication on your part
In need of a clutch master cylinder for 1988 Ford Thunderbird turbo coupe they DO NOT sell them anymore can you help
The key is to match the bore and stroke. Measure what you have and you should be able to get an aftermarket master to match.
This is super interesting, but what does this have to do with treadmill motors? ;)
😂😂
Do you have any bracket for a t56 magnum ?
No I do not
Does the size ratio of master and slave cylinder change the force requires to operate? I understand it changes the travel of the master cylinder but does that in turn increase and decrease force needed? So larger master shorter travel and more force, smaller master more travel of master but less force required? Can anybody help me out? Trying to match my master and slave motorbike clutch cylinders to reduce force required to operate as it is very hard to operate.
Easy way to look at the ratio Is stroke for stroke. In other words if do two different bore sizes and 2" of stroke at the master results in 1" at the slave you have a ratio of 2:1 and will reduce your pedal effort by a facto of 2 in other words cut it in half. This is why most hydraulic clutches run a bigger bore slave and a smaller bore master with enough stroke to have the correct fluid volume to move the SC the required amount. Make sense?
Can you please guide on how to measure the stroke, from which point to which point
Sure, with everything in the resting position mark the MC pushrod where it meets the body of the master. then fully depress it and make a second mark. Measure between the two marks.
@@dazecars will measure it in the morning
@@dazecars the OEM master was 3/4 and the slave was 1 inch
Currently using the oem slave with toyota 5/8 master
What would be your recommendation of what i should do to alleviate the problem