2:22 I use curly maple all the time too and I almost ALWAYS get tear out when using my bench top planer. I found out if I spray the surface of the wood with water and let it absorb and plane it while it’s still wet it won’t chip/tear out. I did this with every pass and honestly at the end it comes out sooooooo smooth.
Thank you for this video! I tried to paint hand-made mirror frame in this way and though it is not as beautiful as these two you display at the end, it is probably the most beautiful thing I've ever created. I used the black, then sanded down, then 3 coats of the blue. In my case, it sat black for about 7 months before I sanded it, but I feel really good about giving this away, it truly is something to appreciate. Thank you again, I never had an idea why I would use dyes!
I'm an engineer, so my language is very precise, numeric, and chronological. I'm looking for a specific process. I've now watched several of your videos and to begin with I was put off by your narration, but I suddenly realized that your language is that of an artist and to you this isn't just a process that would be done the same every time. You see the natural features of each piece and are working toward accentuating those features in a way that maximizes a series of effects. I can now appreciate the way you communicate. Thank you for putting yourself out there!
just got the blue dye for the first time and couldn't find any good detailed videos on how to use it properly. I'm glad that I have found this video, now i'm ready to make some colorful pieces. Thank you for the video and I really appreciate your time!
Thanks very much for your demo! I've been watching so many demos as I would like to get back into woodworking after many years. I appreciate the thought process you include as a guide to what you are doing and why, so many other videos don't do this. Also, your video footage is on point! You speed things up where it is unnecessarily repetitive, and you slow things down and focus on technique where it is a must. Also, taking the time to capture the products and equipment is invaluable! Professional footage with casual commentary... Great Job, I wish all the videos I watch are more like this one!
Thank you for your precise tutorial. Im building my first guitar and been looking hours of tutorials in internet and talked with more experienced people regarding the finish. This nails the exact color that Im looking for my guitar. Simple and beautiful.
Fantastic video, thanks for sharing practical tips and especially for knowing and explaining the why's; that took care of several unanswered questions. I've experimented a bit with pigment and wax on wood with Varathane-type sealer over, with pretty good results. My favorite part was learning your technique for really popping the grain, I love to see the grain! I really appreciated the clear communication and chill style, that really helped. Great tutorial! Thanks too for keeping the music low key, voice was always clearly audible. A lot of useful take-aways, maybe not the least of which is I could benefit from some groove music when I'm tackling a project!
Thank you :) Pigment is quite different than what these are, so if you liked pigments, I really think you like these wood colorants. They have a cleaner, more transparent look, and will be quite a bit more vibrant ;) Thank you so much for the great input, and for watching! So happy I could help out 👍
great vid... I like your narration and descriptions. It does help. I'm going to use these techniques with black walnut. I've got some crazy figured grain and really want to make it pop... black, brown, yellow I think. Woodworker vids are the best, and you are no exception. True experience, good and bad, and always learning and moving forward. I really like it
@zach2117 Thank you for watching. The dyes do most of the work for you. Testing with the sealer on scrap pieces would be the best advice to understand the final result. I am sure you will be happy 😊
Some I hold onto for testing purposes, how they aged, how the sealers affected them, durability testing, etc, Some I make into color chips, for future reference, and write formulas on the back and seal them, wrap them, and stored in dark cabinet. Some I put into a bin for later use in random collage or something, and some test pieces, just go to my Daughter for firewood in case of emergency. Silly I know, but all good causes. Thank you for watching :)
Thank you for sharing this technique. I am excited to try it. I don’t have any cheese whiz jars as my wife doesn’t allow that in the house, but I will figure out a work around. But I enjoyed the video.
I thoroughly enjoyed this demo video on using Keda Dyes. I hope to soon be receiving a bound telecaster body with a flame maple top. My plan is to use the very same application process on the top as you showed here..... black first, then the blue (I love that blue color!) Thanks for taking the time to make this demo. I hope to follow your finishing video demos in the future, because they are very detailed and easy to understand in the way they are presented! Thanks again!
If you wipe the surface of figured maple with warm water right before you run it through the planer, it softens the fibers and minimizes grain tear out.
I just started refinishing furniture at 48-years-old. I wish I chose this as my career when I was younger. When I see videos like yours and the outcome, all I want to do is work with wood and learn techniques like this. I just don’t have the time to dedicate nor the space or tools to accomplish anything like this. For now, I have to live vicariously through videos like this. Your work is fucking amazing! Thank you for posting this. Oh, I spent the last 30 years speaking to the public. I have one critique of this video. You naturally speak softly. I suggest losing the background music. It’s hard to hear what you’re saying. But again, this is beautiful!!!!
Thank you! I get so many comments ranging from too long, to Brother, you need to give us more information, so finding that happy medium is the trick. I tend to lean toward the over detail side, so hopefully I can figure out what is most preferred by the majority. I have quickly found out, it is VERY difficult making everyone happy, so I need to stay on point with what I feel is value added lol. Hey thank you so much for watching and the awesome comment!
Great stuff- just two suggestions, more to my taste than a 'right or wrong" thing... 1. I prefer a dark brown base dye, looks more natural to the wood. 2. I love a Danish Oil finish, it's more satin than a glassy-looking gloss finish. A well-known trick is to sand the first coat of Danish Oil into the wood, it fills the surface grain with the sawdust and makes an even smoother final feel... Danish Oil is great because it feels very close to the wood and soaks into it rather than just sitting on the surface- you just have to touch it, it almost feels "soft"... 🙂
I used Danish oil for my bed frame build. Or maybe it was Tung. I can’t remember now. But I know what you mean. Every time someone comes over I tell them to touch my bed frame. 😂 Half the time I don’t think they understand what I’m trying to explain as they just tentatively tap it with their finger, but the “softness” from wet sanding that first coat is unique to oil finishes and simply can’t be explained. It’s incredibly satisfying to use this technique.
This is cool this is the color I'm doing my beat up Les Paul question do you have a recipe for a die my next project I'm redoing my 1954 SKS I'm looking for a Russian red dye
That is when you have to decide how many guitars you are going to build ..hahaha. I have heard of some guys getting 20+ guitars out of one Keda Dye Kit. Thank you for watching :)
Thank you! And thank you for watching! I am actually trying to get that exact video done on a Douglass Fir. I have tried Sugi on figured maples several different ways, but it just doesn't come out the same for me as it does with Pines and Douglass Firs. Is maybe my technique 🤷♂️ I am still trying to perfect the Shou Sugi Ban but I have not had much success on maples with it. 👍 Anyways, I am hoping that video I am doing with the Fir burning and dye will be done in a day or two. It looks absolutely mezmorizing 😁 Thank you again for watching!
What's the lacquer being used? You're pointing it out but whatever text in the red strip you're trying to point out is blury and I can't make out the full brand at the top of the can since I'm not familiar with brands.
for a paper thin veneered guitar , would i go lighter with the primary black coat, scare of sanding trough the veneer ? what you suggest ??? Thanks a lot
LOVE this. I am currently working on a drum set finished with curly maple outer plies and this definitely helped me make my decision on the blue color. Only issue im having is that even after sanding 180 >> 220, there are streaks in the wood that dont seem to be able to let the blue dye in, basically like rejecting it. Hopefully I can get my blue to look this amazing but would like some advice from someone who is a lot more experienced than myself. A+ work though!
I have an 1870s mahogany Eastlake dresser that was dyed a dark magenta, and then shellacked. (I had to remove 3-4 layers of paint to discover this). How would you go about darkening the figure in mahogany with the existing dyed wood as is?
Did you have to use a wood filler. I will be making a guitar with mahogany and since that is such a pourus wood i am concerned about prep. Thx ahead of time
Lol I think I am getting there. Turns out I speak much better and louder when I stand up doing the voice work. Heck my last couple vids I even got er done in less than 5 re-do's That is pretty huge for me 😆😂🤣😂 Thank you for the great comment and for watching 👍 I will get there...
This is incredibly beautiful. This video made my decision on using curly maple veneers as the accents in my car with the same color. Can I get the same vivid outcome using thin 1/42 veneer?
You certainly could 👍 The only difference, be careful with sanding back. The powders when mixed with water, are designed not to dig in as deep, so they require less sanding, to help prevent sand throughs. Otherwise, you could also go with a diluted black, apply that way, then go with the primary coloring. Here is an example of that: th-cam.com/video/sGdoT6VuyTE/w-d-xo.html Is not veneer in that video, but the principal and technique would be very similar 👍
I have a wood specific question for you. I have a bunch of the old, when it used to grow to 16 to 18" wide Wormy Chestnut. I am really trying to figure out how to stain this wood. It is a very dense wood and boy, some beautiful grain as well as worm holes as well as the trails you can see where the worms actually crawled along, that I know would definitely be an heirloom for the future no matter what I build out of it. I bought a bunch of it from a 97 year old man about 7 years ago and HE told me that he had gotten a lot of the wood through his three marriages and that a lot of this lumber he said he could guarantee came from before the turn of the century in the 1800's. The lumber that I have is mostly in the neighborhood of 15 feet long and anywhere from 11 to 15 inches wide and most are 4/4" and 5/4" in thickness. This wood is so rare that lots of Lumber yards are ripping a 3/4" board in half and selling them for unbelievable Board Foot prices. I have been tempted. You know, most of the barns were built out of this stuff, not to mention that they used it for flooring and many other building needs because this wood was not very susceptible to mold or rotting. I would love your take on how I can treat this wood so it's true beauty can shine. If you wish, I could send you a few small samples if you are not familiar with this species of wood so you can experiment with it to find the best method of working with it. When you plain one of these boards down, it shines like it has been buffed out or something. I could really use an experts opinion. Thank you in advance.
OMG! Bob! How the heck did I miss this comment?!?! GRRR... I totally understand if it is too late. I guess I would start out with what color are you thinking? Browns/Yellows/Blues etc? I am sure that no matter what you do with that beautiful wood it will be absolutely amazing! Once we figure out the color the rest should be rather easy lol. I really am SO sorry for missing this, and absolutely honored you reached out to me. Then I just whiff it ugh. Sometimes I just get so wrapped up in so much "Stuff" and well, honestly, the past couple months have been one of those "Life Winters" you just cant wait for the "Spring" to come back to feel the warmth of the Sun shine on your face once again.
Harbor freight has a skill saw blade sharpener for about $20.00 If U R like me U probably detest having to buy new skill saw blades all the time. This kit seems to work very well.
U don't wanna go to slow and make waves . The end grain will sand at a diff speed cause it's harder . Also. Watch out for pig tails . If u beardown on a orbital sander with sharp paper u will see with dark stains
Whats the advantage of using Dye as opposed to wood stain? If you mentioned why in the video I apologize for not catching that, but I would really like to know what your opinion is on why using the Kaeda Dye instead of stain
Can you share what/where your stained wood is to be used, and how durable the coat/surface is? Depending on cost effectiveness, I'd like to do my art/music room floor with this. I'm going w a psychedelic motif, black lights, etc.
THIS STUFF LOOKS GREAT... MY ONE ADVICE IS TO NOT USE SPRAY CAN LACQUER.. IT LEAVES TOO MUCH ORANGE PEEL AND PITTING.. TRY A FINE MIST AUTOMOTIVE SPRAYER, OR USE LIQUID LACQUER AND APPLY WITH SPONGE.. THESE WILL LEAVE BETTER FINISHES EVEN WITHOUT WET SANDING..
A question and a comment. First, are Keda dyes compatible with cellulose? My dyes are dichlortriazene base since it's compatible with plant base fibre. Second, - and this is just a suggestion - I use the same basic procedure that you demonstrate (colour, sand back, second colour) but have always finished with an oil base finish (for any figured wood, nit just dyed wood) since it's longer drying time allows deeper penetration which greatly enhances the 3D effect of figured wood. I've been doing his successfully since 1992 so I've learned that acrylic, shellac or lacquers that dry very quickly don't have near the dramatic effect as an oil base finish.
Oh boy... interesting stuff. Keda Dyes will work very well with an oil based sealer as a top coat. I prefer oil based for certain colors like yellows, oranges, some browns, some greens etc. I like how the oil based versions patina (yellow) over time, and can really add to color work over time. Depends on the color work you are doing. Great video idea though! Thank you fam!
My question was about its comparability with cellulose, not oil base finishes. In my experience, dyes that are not compatible with cellulose tend to fade very quickly when applied to wood.
Have you ever cut into a piece that you have finished to see the depth of the stain? I have a sheet of curly maple that I was to use for knife scales but I'm sure of the process to use.
Thank you for this awesome video & thanks for keeping it real as well! Funny stuff! I don't think i always realise how much work goes into making these videos! U did really well & i love the bloopers! I will watch ur video over any perfectly narrated/executed video.... EVERY SINGLE TIME! It's much more real life & much more comparable to how it will go when i try! Haha! Yeah right.... Mine wouldn't even be worth the time to video tape it & upload! None the less, i am going to attempt to do this anyway! Lol! Thanks again!💕 Ps) BTW... Where are U from? Love Ur accent!
I have here: th-cam.com/video/ithKmmYCvNM/w-d-xo.html it depends on the wood honestly. There is 60,000 species of wood. It really depends on the wood you plan on working with.
Nice video and great explanation of you technique, I have a question and I understand how old this clip is, so I want to build a custom gun stock and would like to use a laminate style stock with dyed wood. How would you dye hard wood roughly 1/8" thick all the way through the wood so as I carve, plane and sand the wood I don't loose the dye in the wood, the length would be around 30" long. I have the equipment to vacuum the wood via a vacuum bag and if pressure would be needed I would have to come up with a chamber of some type ie old air compressor tank etc. Thank you any suggestions would be great!!
So we have talked on a couple of your videos. Is there a video or thing to look at that gives us a run down on what the mix ratio is on liquid dyes vs powders? Ie im using this 1/4 black powder thats = to ?? Liquid dye both with ?? Amount of water. And I would love to see just a video or series of videos or a cheat sheet of what color goes best with what base liquid. All that being said love the videos love keda dyes. And if you need me to ill be a Guinea pig on mixing different samples up. Lol
Have you ever tried mixing a small amount of white glue into the black dye, it’s supposed to help prevent it bleeding into the blue/top dye? These samples turned out beautiful. I’m considering trying this with an exquisite piece of 4A Quilt Maple I have. Great content, Thank You.
So do you apply the minwax before the dye has time to dry? Or is there a wait time between when you last applied your dye coats to when you apply the minwax?
We purchased two of your kits a while back and really can't wait to put them to use on our first nine instrument builds. The surface and finish, the shine, the smoothness, is really quite impressive. Are you using multiple applications of the lacquer and wet sanding in between, and are you buffing that lacquer? If yes to either question, any advice on these operations? If you did mention this in the video and I missed it, I apologize. I have been up for a very long time working in my shop I'm starting to lose focus.
Hahaha I totally understand the exhausted and info starts running together part lol, believe me I do 😂 Actually, no, I did not wet sand and polish the finish at all, nor did I wet sand between coats. I did do a 320 grit sand after the 2nd coat dried for 24 hours, then applied final coat. That between coat sand helps to remove defects/debris, or other "Things" that can reduce the perfect top coat look. Now with that said, you can go with a 220 grit sanding instead of the 320, but I used the 320 because the sealer was actually in pretty good shape. I mean it wouldn't hurt to wet sand between coats as long as you allow the sanding wash to fully dry before applying the next finish sealer coat. I typically reserve wet sand/polishing for the final top coat after the sealer has cured for a couple weeks, but do not do that very often. Guitar work, yes, chances are I would wet sand and polish that, but after applying 6-7 coats, maybe even more depending of course. Well, this is getting pretty long answer for a wood dye finishing video hahaha, but honestly, almost all questions in wood finishing are like this. This answer, can also change based on the sealer itself. Not all sealers are made the same, and other techniques, or "Polishing" make be a better fit. However, I really hope this helps out somewhat. I can't wait until I have a little more space with this new shop. Hopefully, I can swing it all, and then I will try to make some more diversified videos as well as coloring formulas 👍🤞🤷♂️ Wish me luck 😁 Thank you for watching 👍 and so so sorry for missing this come through 😔
So with this kind of dye/stain is it the same wipe on wipe off method, I never noticed you wiping it off so I’m assuming this kind of dye just soaks in and you don’t wipe it off. How far does it usually penetrate into the wood?
I love this video. I just bought 2 Keda products (black and royal blue) - both of them you mix in warm water or rubbing alcohol. Can you tell me if it's possible to use denatured alcohol with these dyes? Thank you so much. I absolutely love watching what you do. So beautiful!
How long can you preserve the stain once you make a die mixture? Will it last in the jar for a long time and have you noticed any difference in stain quality if you use it later? The Keda Dye instructions say best if used right away is why I ask.
It will last for quite a long time. It will last longer with say a splash of water dyes mixed in then the rubbing alcohol added, than with just water. I mean I still have water based jars of dyes that I do still use that are over a year old already, but they do fall off a bit with water base. I mean it isn't very bad, but there is some. I will also sometimes just add a little freshener of dye sometimes too. So say I have a batch that was 20 ounces that I made, and I only used 4 ounces leaving 16 ounces. Then it sits for 8 months. It will still color the wood quite well, but It depends on some variables as well. If I ever have any question, I just add a little bit like maybe 1/8th tsp just to help out. They don't always need it, but since I already have 16 ounces in the jar, adding a touch of fresh wood dye never hurts ;) Anyways, I think I over did it again, but long story short, they will last for quite a long time, but be sure the top is sealed, stored away from intense light, and in a cool place. Hope that helps out and the ramblings make some sense...Thank you for watching 👍
Apologies if that's already answered but... is there a reason why you used the black dye with water and the blue with alcohol? Is that a factor in making the separation between colors more clear, or is it just for demonstration purposes? I was thinking of doing a maple guitar top with similar colors, but I was thinking of using water for both colors... Thanks for all the info by the way!
Hello Mate. Your work and direction are brilliant. This is not an area I have much experience but I am working on a project, thanks to your video lessons. I wonder, is it likely that the dye can be controlled? I need to make a perfect square of just a few small inches within the main body of my project. If I use the dye and painters tape, will the tape curb the dye from running beyond the tape border? Cheers Bruv!
Tape would not stop the dye stain from running under the tape. You could use a razor to cut the wood fibers to prevent the dyes from traveling to an area, as well as a woodburning iron. I use razors when making USA flags and works quite well :) Practicing on some scrap will help you get a bit of practice ;)
Do you think that the gloss sealer will stick together if I use it on jenga blocks. Would love to use it, but not want it to make the blocks sick together.
You could maybe use a light coat or two of Tru oil, Tung oil (polyermized Tung oil) or Danish Oil ;) That should seal the wood, but still feels like wood. Otherwise, after the lacquer fully cures for a few weeks, should be just fine. I dont think it will stick once it is fully cured.Thank you for watching!
2:22 I use curly maple all the time too and I almost ALWAYS get tear out when using my bench top planer. I found out if I spray the surface of the wood with water and let it absorb and plane it while it’s still wet it won’t chip/tear out. I did this with every pass and honestly at the end it comes out sooooooo smooth.
You are awesome! I need to try this when I am done repairing the shop ceiling from a leak 👍Thank you for sharing that fam!
that is killer info! I wonder if it makes planing all woods more smoover. ever tried it with softwoods?
@@KedaWoodDye WHy not use the leak as an applicator? Just put a valve on there to close the leak, and use it!!😜
"Hello, today I will be whispering into a mic so I can get the ASMR traffic also"
finally a video that's clear, cut, and to the point. Thank you so much, salut
Thank you for this video! I tried to paint hand-made mirror frame in this way and though it is not as beautiful as these two you display at the end, it is probably the most beautiful thing I've ever created. I used the black, then sanded down, then 3 coats of the blue. In my case, it sat black for about 7 months before I sanded it, but I feel really good about giving this away, it truly is something to appreciate. Thank you again, I never had an idea why I would use dyes!
I'm an engineer, so my language is very precise, numeric, and chronological. I'm looking for a specific process. I've now watched several of your videos and to begin with I was put off by your narration, but I suddenly realized that your language is that of an artist and to you this isn't just a process that would be done the same every time. You see the natural features of each piece and are working toward accentuating those features in a way that maximizes a series of effects. I can now appreciate the way you communicate. Thank you for putting yourself out there!
just got the blue dye for the first time and couldn't find any good detailed videos on how to use it properly. I'm glad that I have found this video, now i'm ready to make some colorful pieces. Thank you for the video and I really appreciate your time!
Thanks very much for your demo! I've been watching so many demos as I would like to get back into woodworking after many years. I appreciate the thought process you include as a guide to what you are doing and why, so many other videos don't do this. Also, your video footage is on point! You speed things up where it is unnecessarily repetitive, and you slow things down and focus on technique where it is a must. Also, taking the time to capture the products and equipment is invaluable! Professional footage with casual commentary... Great Job, I wish all the videos I watch are more like this one!
Thank you for your precise tutorial.
Im building my first guitar and been looking hours of tutorials in internet and talked with more experienced people regarding the finish. This nails the exact color that Im looking for my guitar. Simple and beautiful.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. The only video that has this information. Thanks a million.
Thank you. for sharing this extremely detailed and informative video of the Keda dye process you use. Excellent and helpful video.
Fantastic video, thanks for sharing practical tips and especially for knowing and explaining the why's; that took care of several unanswered questions. I've experimented a bit with pigment and wax on wood with Varathane-type sealer over, with pretty good results. My favorite part was learning your technique for really popping the grain, I love to see the grain! I really appreciated the clear communication and chill style, that really helped. Great tutorial! Thanks too for keeping the music low key, voice was always clearly audible. A lot of useful take-aways, maybe not the least of which is I could benefit from some groove music when I'm tackling a project!
Thank you :) Pigment is quite different than what these are, so if you liked pigments, I really think you like these wood colorants. They have a cleaner, more transparent look, and will be quite a bit more vibrant ;)
Thank you so much for the great input, and for watching! So happy I could help out 👍
great vid... I like your narration and descriptions. It does help. I'm going to use these techniques with black walnut. I've got some crazy figured grain and really want to make it pop... black, brown, yellow I think. Woodworker vids are the best, and you are no exception. True experience, good and bad, and always learning and moving forward. I really like it
Great video. Very helpful with my attempts at wood dyeing.
Happy I could help out. Thank you for letting me know. 👍
These are the results i want with the dyes gona spend lil more time preparing the wood i like this look
@zach2117 Thank you for watching. The dyes do most of the work for you. Testing with the sealer on scrap pieces would be the best advice to understand the final result. I am sure you will be happy 😊
I would like to see you stain a drumstick in that Kato powder blue....its amazing....thanks
your videos are awesome. Just subbed last week and ordered dye from you today.
Thank you fam... I appreciate that. 🙏
just started a new guitar build using this exact color but im using quilted maple instead of flamed, color is just really sweet !!👍
Thanks for the knowledge helped me with my project help full video could been a little shorter but other then that keep up the good work
Happy it helped out 👍
So now what will you do with those fantastic boards?
Some I hold onto for testing purposes, how they aged, how the sealers affected them, durability testing, etc, Some I make into color chips, for future reference, and write formulas on the back and seal them, wrap them, and stored in dark cabinet. Some I put into a bin for later use in random collage or something, and some test pieces, just go to my Daughter for firewood in case of emergency. Silly I know, but all good causes. Thank you for watching :)
Thank you for sharing this technique. I am excited to try it. I don’t have any cheese whiz jars as my wife doesn’t allow that in the house, but I will figure out a work around. But I enjoyed the video.
I thoroughly enjoyed this demo video on using Keda Dyes. I hope to soon be receiving a bound telecaster body with a flame maple top. My plan is to use the very same application process on the top as you showed here..... black first, then the blue (I love that blue color!) Thanks for taking the time to make this demo. I hope to follow your finishing video demos in the future, because they are very detailed and easy to understand in the way they are presented! Thanks again!
How did your Tele turn out? I'm literally getting ready to do the same process, and would love to see how yours turned out.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 So how'd your tele turn out?
Wow, I wood dye for something that beautiful
Nice 😂😂😂
I like the bloopers ! it makes me feel more normal !
If you’re interested, you can lighten up the end grain by sealing it with a wash coat(5:1) of clear (blonde) shellac or dewaxed shellac.
Looks like denim. I like it a LOT
Thank you 👍
Beautiful ! Nice demonstration! TY
If you wipe the surface of figured maple with warm water right before you run it through the planer, it softens the fibers and minimizes grain tear out.
I am going to try that! If that works, you are my new hero lol 😆 👍 Thank you 👍
@@KedaWoodDye Oh it'll work... I work with figured woods, almost exclusively. Got It as a tip from one of the woodworking ancients...😏
I just started refinishing furniture at 48-years-old. I wish I chose this as my career when I was younger. When I see videos like yours and the outcome, all I want to do is work with wood and learn techniques like this. I just don’t have the time to dedicate nor the space or tools to accomplish anything like this.
For now, I have to live vicariously through videos like this. Your work is fucking amazing! Thank you for posting this.
Oh, I spent the last 30 years speaking to the public. I have one critique of this video. You naturally speak softly. I suggest losing the background music. It’s hard to hear what you’re saying.
But again, this is beautiful!!!!
Thank You !! Great Explanation, I Appreciate Your Hard Work and Time on this.
Excellent demo, Sir!
That gave me some inspiration for knife and gun scales, along with ping pong paddle handles!
Thank you! Oh man there are some techniques with these wood dyes that would look utterly amazing 👍 Thank you for watching!
Fantastic instruction. I love the detail in your process. Very helpful. Thank you!
Thank you! I get so many comments ranging from too long, to Brother, you need to give us more information, so finding that happy medium is the trick. I tend to lean toward the over detail side, so hopefully I can figure out what is most preferred by the majority. I have quickly found out, it is VERY difficult making everyone happy, so I need to stay on point with what I feel is value added lol. Hey thank you so much for watching and the awesome comment!
Great stuff- just two suggestions, more to my taste than a 'right or wrong" thing... 1. I prefer a dark brown base dye, looks more natural to the wood. 2. I love a Danish Oil finish, it's more satin than a glassy-looking gloss finish. A well-known trick is to sand the first coat of Danish Oil into the wood, it fills the surface grain with the sawdust and makes an even smoother final feel... Danish Oil is great because it feels very close to the wood and soaks into it rather than just sitting on the surface- you just have to touch it, it almost feels "soft"... 🙂
I used Danish oil for my bed frame build. Or maybe it was Tung. I can’t remember now. But I know what you mean. Every time someone comes over I tell them to touch my bed frame. 😂 Half the time I don’t think they understand what I’m trying to explain as they just tentatively tap it with their finger, but the “softness” from wet sanding that first coat is unique to oil finishes and simply can’t be explained. It’s incredibly satisfying to use this technique.
Great video ! I have a small project and this is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks fo going into such detail!
Wow😮 how would this work on pine/ Douglas fir? Awe awe awesome 💯
This is cool this is the color I'm doing my beat up Les Paul question do you have a recipe for a die my next project I'm redoing my 1954 SKS I'm looking for a Russian red dye
Thank you. I am trying to use quilted maple to simulate blue water. Any ideas?
Picked up a pack of these to use in staining a guitar body. The hard part is trying to figure out what color to go with.
That is when you have to decide how many guitars you are going to build ..hahaha. I have heard of some guys getting 20+ guitars out of one Keda Dye Kit. Thank you for watching :)
Have you considered lightly torching the wood to bring out the grain prior to dying it?
Love the way it came out. Great job.
Thank you! And thank you for watching! I am actually trying to get that exact video done on a Douglass Fir. I have tried Sugi on figured maples several different ways, but it just doesn't come out the same for me as it does with Pines and Douglass Firs. Is maybe my technique 🤷♂️ I am still trying to perfect the Shou Sugi Ban but I have not had much success on maples with it. 👍 Anyways, I am hoping that video I am doing with the Fir burning and dye will be done in a day or two. It looks absolutely mezmorizing 😁 Thank you again for watching!
What's the lacquer being used? You're pointing it out but whatever text in the red strip you're trying to point out is blury and I can't make out the full brand at the top of the can since I'm not familiar with brands.
for a paper thin veneered guitar , would i go lighter with the primary black coat, scare of sanding trough the veneer ? what you suggest ???
Thanks a lot
LOVE this. I am currently working on a drum set finished with curly maple outer plies and this definitely helped me make my decision on the blue color. Only issue im having is that even after sanding 180 >> 220, there are streaks in the wood that dont seem to be able to let the blue dye in, basically like rejecting it. Hopefully I can get my blue to look this amazing but would like some advice from someone who is a lot more experienced than myself. A+ work though!
Sounds great...I would love to stain a drumset too. ....in that blue....its incredible
I have an 1870s mahogany Eastlake dresser that was dyed a dark magenta, and then shellacked. (I had to remove 3-4 layers of paint to discover this). How would you go about darkening the figure in mahogany with the existing dyed wood as is?
Your work is amazing ....do you have a video on a wood dye black looking ...thank you
How long do you let it sit before wiping off excess after the first coat?
Did you have to use a wood filler. I will be making a guitar with mahogany and since that is such a pourus wood i am concerned about prep. Thx ahead of time
Damnit can hear you speak up son ! Be loud and proud you do great work 👽
Lol I think I am getting there. Turns out I speak much better and louder when I stand up doing the voice work. Heck my last couple vids I even got er done in less than 5 re-do's That is pretty huge for me 😆😂🤣😂 Thank you for the great comment and for watching 👍 I will get there...
This is incredibly beautiful. This video made my decision on using curly maple veneers as the accents in my car with the same color. Can I get the same vivid outcome using thin 1/42 veneer?
You certainly could 👍 The only difference, be careful with sanding back. The powders when mixed with water, are designed not to dig in as deep, so they require less sanding, to help prevent sand throughs. Otherwise, you could also go with a diluted black, apply that way, then go with the primary coloring. Here is an example of that: th-cam.com/video/sGdoT6VuyTE/w-d-xo.html
Is not veneer in that video, but the principal and technique would be very similar 👍
I have a wood specific question for you. I have a bunch of the old, when it used to grow to 16 to 18" wide Wormy Chestnut. I am really trying to figure out how to stain this wood. It is a very dense wood and boy, some beautiful grain as well as worm holes as well as the trails you can see where the worms actually crawled along, that I know would definitely be an heirloom for the future no matter what I build out of it. I bought a bunch of it from a 97 year old man about 7 years ago and HE told me that he had gotten a lot of the wood through his three marriages and that a lot of this lumber he said he could guarantee came from before the turn of the century in the 1800's. The lumber that I have is mostly in the neighborhood of 15 feet long and anywhere from 11 to 15 inches wide and most are 4/4" and 5/4" in thickness. This wood is so rare that lots of Lumber yards are ripping a 3/4" board in half and selling them for unbelievable Board Foot prices. I have been tempted. You know, most of the barns were built out of this stuff, not to mention that they used it for flooring and many other building needs because this wood was not very susceptible to mold or rotting. I would love your take on how I can treat this wood so it's true beauty can shine. If you wish, I could send you a few small samples if you are not familiar with this species of wood so you can experiment with it to find the best method of working with it. When you plain one of these boards down, it shines like it has been buffed out or something. I could really use an experts opinion. Thank you in advance.
OMG! Bob! How the heck did I miss this comment?!?! GRRR... I totally understand if it is too late. I guess I would start out with what color are you thinking? Browns/Yellows/Blues etc? I am sure that no matter what you do with that beautiful wood it will be absolutely amazing! Once we figure out the color the rest should be rather easy lol. I really am SO sorry for missing this, and absolutely honored you reached out to me. Then I just whiff it ugh. Sometimes I just get so wrapped up in so much "Stuff" and well, honestly, the past couple months have been one of those "Life Winters" you just cant wait for the "Spring" to come back to feel the warmth of the Sun shine on your face once again.
Will this dye work on a guitar body that has been sealed with a poly resin sealer?
No, any dye or stain must penetrate the wood.
Hello really great video can you stain Maple light blue or will it go dark blue thank you Adrian Warren cheers
Harbor freight has a skill saw blade sharpener for about $20.00
If U R like me U probably detest having to buy new skill saw blades all the time. This kit seems to work very well.
U don't wanna go to slow and make waves . The end grain will sand at a diff speed cause it's harder . Also. Watch out for pig tails . If u beardown on a orbital sander with sharp paper u will see with dark stains
Awesome point! 👌 Have had that happen on my 6ft flag I made for the shop. I hand sanded the pine after and had to reburn it. Ugh lol 👍
I'm confused as to how the dust bag on the sander is collecting any sawdust, when the sand paper doesn't have any holes in it.
Just absolutely beautiful. I'm learning this!!!!!!!! Thank you yet again. I'm addicted!!!! BTW, I love the bloopers!!! LOL !!!!
Whats the advantage of using Dye as opposed to wood stain? If you mentioned why in the video I apologize for not catching that, but I would really like to know what your opinion is on why using the Kaeda Dye instead of stain
Awesome. Can’t wait to stain my 10/22 stock
Can you share what/where your stained wood is to be used, and how durable the coat/surface is? Depending on cost effectiveness, I'd like to do my art/music room floor with this. I'm going w a psychedelic motif, black lights, etc.
Awesome video btw
Have u ever water poped it then hit real quick with a 220 screen then stain .
well done, thanks...
Would this work for a gun stock? I have a walnut gun stock that I want to refinish. But I want the grain to really pop. Any suggestions?
I’m about to dye a guitar made of ash. Since ash is open grain, should I use grain filler first or would that affect the dye/final color?
Can you add a coat of water-based minwax polyurethane over the lacquer for added durability for a object that will be handled often?
THIS STUFF LOOKS GREAT... MY ONE ADVICE IS TO NOT USE SPRAY CAN LACQUER.. IT LEAVES TOO MUCH ORANGE PEEL AND PITTING.. TRY A FINE MIST AUTOMOTIVE SPRAYER, OR USE LIQUID LACQUER
AND APPLY WITH SPONGE.. THESE WILL LEAVE BETTER FINISHES EVEN WITHOUT WET SANDING..
LOOKS GOOD, THANKS FOR SHARING.🇺🇲🌞✌️👍
A question and a comment. First, are Keda dyes compatible with cellulose? My dyes are dichlortriazene base since it's compatible with plant base fibre. Second, - and this is just a suggestion - I use the same basic procedure that you demonstrate (colour, sand back, second colour) but have always finished with an oil base finish (for any figured wood, nit just dyed wood) since it's longer drying time allows deeper penetration which greatly enhances the 3D effect of figured wood. I've been doing his successfully since 1992 so I've learned that acrylic, shellac or lacquers that dry very quickly don't have near the dramatic effect as an oil base finish.
Oh boy... interesting stuff. Keda Dyes will work very well with an oil based sealer as a top coat. I prefer oil based for certain colors like yellows, oranges, some browns, some greens etc. I like how the oil based versions patina (yellow) over time, and can really add to color work over time. Depends on the color work you are doing. Great video idea though! Thank you fam!
My question was about its comparability with cellulose, not oil base finishes. In my experience, dyes that are not compatible with cellulose tend to fade very quickly when applied to wood.
On the dye pack it says use water but in some of your videos you use rubbing alcohol or lacquer thinner. Any reason why not just water?
amazing video as always! Do you ever use or reccomend wood conditioner or does this mixture barely give issues when it comes to blotching and such?
Have you ever cut into a piece that you have finished to see the depth of the stain? I have a sheet of curly maple that I was to use for knife scales but I'm sure of the process to use.
Can u torch the wood and sand it down to the natural color and dye it? Like shui shi ban torch stain
What cloth are you using for application and burnishing???
Can u just fill a bucket and soak the wood or will it ruin it ?
Thank you for this awesome video & thanks for keeping it real as well! Funny stuff! I don't think i always realise how much work goes into making these videos! U did really well & i love the bloopers! I will watch ur video over any perfectly narrated/executed video.... EVERY SINGLE TIME! It's much more real life & much more comparable to how it will go when i try! Haha! Yeah right.... Mine wouldn't even be worth the time to video tape it & upload! None the less, i am going to attempt to do this anyway! Lol! Thanks again!💕
Ps) BTW... Where are U from? Love Ur accent!
Great video, thx for explaining in detail!!
Happy I could help out 👍 Thank you so much for watching!
Just beautiful. Have you ever tried the method of burning the wood and then applying the dye - if so which way do you prefer?
I have here: th-cam.com/video/ithKmmYCvNM/w-d-xo.html it depends on the wood honestly. There is 60,000 species of wood. It really depends on the wood you plan on working with.
You ROCK! AWESOME finish!
Thank you! and thank you for watching!
So beautiful!!! Did you use a sponge to apply the dyes? Can the spray on laquer be used on dinner tables? Wet sanding in between coats of laquer?
Can I use the alcohol for both colours instead of the water?
Nice video and great explanation of you technique, I have a question and I understand how old this clip is, so I want to build a custom gun stock and would like to use a laminate style stock with dyed wood. How would you dye hard wood roughly 1/8" thick all the way through the wood so as I carve, plane and sand the wood I don't loose the dye in the wood, the length would be around 30" long.
I have the equipment to vacuum the wood via a vacuum bag and if pressure would be needed I would have to come up with a chamber of some type ie old air compressor tank etc. Thank you any suggestions would be great!!
So we have talked on a couple of your videos. Is there a video or thing to look at that gives us a run down on what the mix ratio is on liquid dyes vs powders? Ie im using this 1/4 black powder thats = to ?? Liquid dye both with ?? Amount of water. And I would love to see just a video or series of videos or a cheat sheet of what color goes best with what base liquid. All that being said love the videos love keda dyes. And if you need me to ill be a Guinea pig on mixing different samples up. Lol
Amazing! Great technique, cant wait to try..great video so helpful!!
Thank you and thank you for watching 👍
Have you ever tried mixing a small amount of white glue into the black dye, it’s supposed to help prevent it bleeding into the blue/top dye?
These samples turned out beautiful. I’m considering trying this with an exquisite piece of 4A Quilt Maple I have.
Great content, Thank You.
So do you apply the minwax before the dye has time to dry? Or is there a wait time between when you last applied your dye coats to when you apply the minwax?
You ALWAYS want the dye stain dried before applying any clear coat ;) Otherwise, you can get "Fisheyes" or defects in the sealer coat.
@@KedaWoodDye thank you for that, I ordered myself some powder dye, and I'm super excited, can't wait for it to get here.
Thanks for awesome video. Which sander do you use? Is that random orbit sander?
That kickback could have been a lot nastier. Happened to me twice, both times pieces flew forward thank God. Will definitely shake you up for a while!
Love that! Educational too. Thanks
Thanks for sharing Im going to give it a try
Happy it helped out. I think you will love it! It looks descent on the video, but when you see it in person, is even better 👍 Thank you for watching!
serious patience
We purchased two of your kits a while back and really can't wait to put them to use on our first nine instrument builds. The surface and finish, the shine, the smoothness, is really quite impressive.
Are you using multiple applications of the lacquer and wet sanding in between, and are you buffing that lacquer?
If yes to either question, any advice on these operations?
If you did mention this in the video and I missed it, I apologize. I have been up for a very long time working in my shop I'm starting to lose focus.
Hahaha I totally understand the exhausted and info starts running together part lol, believe me I do 😂
Actually, no, I did not wet sand and polish the finish at all, nor did I wet sand between coats. I did do a 320 grit sand after the 2nd coat dried for 24 hours, then applied final coat. That between coat sand helps to remove defects/debris, or other "Things" that can reduce the perfect top coat look.
Now with that said, you can go with a 220 grit sanding instead of the 320, but I used the 320 because the sealer was actually in pretty good shape. I mean it wouldn't hurt to wet sand between coats as long as you allow the sanding wash to fully dry before applying the next finish sealer coat.
I typically reserve wet sand/polishing for the final top coat after the sealer has cured for a couple weeks, but do not do that very often. Guitar work, yes, chances are I would wet sand and polish that, but after applying 6-7 coats, maybe even more depending of course.
Well, this is getting pretty long answer for a wood dye finishing video hahaha, but honestly, almost all questions in wood finishing are like this. This answer, can also change based on the sealer itself. Not all sealers are made the same, and other techniques, or "Polishing" make be a better fit.
However, I really hope this helps out somewhat. I can't wait until I have a little more space with this new shop. Hopefully, I can swing it all, and then I will try to make some more diversified videos as well as coloring formulas 👍🤞🤷♂️
Wish me luck 😁 Thank you for watching 👍 and so so sorry for missing this come through 😔
So with this kind of dye/stain is it the same wipe on wipe off method, I never noticed you wiping it off so I’m assuming this kind of dye just soaks in and you don’t wipe it off. How far does it usually penetrate into the wood?
I love this video. I just bought 2 Keda products (black and royal blue) - both of them you mix in warm water or rubbing alcohol. Can you tell me if it's possible to use denatured alcohol with these dyes? Thank you so much. I absolutely love watching what you do. So beautiful!
looks nice
How long can you preserve the stain once you make a die mixture? Will it last in the jar for a long time and have you noticed any difference in stain quality if you use it later? The Keda Dye instructions say best if used right away is why I ask.
It will last for quite a long time. It will last longer with say a splash of water dyes mixed in then the rubbing alcohol added, than with just water. I mean I still have water based jars of dyes that I do still use that are over a year old already, but they do fall off a bit with water base. I mean it isn't very bad, but there is some. I will also sometimes just add a little freshener of dye sometimes too. So say I have a batch that was 20 ounces that I made, and I only used 4 ounces leaving 16 ounces. Then it sits for 8 months. It will still color the wood quite well, but It depends on some variables as well. If I ever have any question, I just add a little bit like maybe 1/8th tsp just to help out. They don't always need it, but since I already have 16 ounces in the jar, adding a touch of fresh wood dye never hurts ;) Anyways, I think I over did it again, but long story short, they will last for quite a long time, but be sure the top is sealed, stored away from intense light, and in a cool place. Hope that helps out and the ramblings make some sense...Thank you for watching 👍
@@KedaWoodDye Yes it makes perfect sense. Thank you and i really appreciate the fast response!
why did you mix second dye with alcohol?
Apologies if that's already answered but... is there a reason why you used the black dye with water and the blue with alcohol? Is that a factor in making the separation between colors more clear, or is it just for demonstration purposes? I was thinking of doing a maple guitar top with similar colors, but I was thinking of using water for both colors...
Thanks for all the info by the way!
Did you let it dry before adding the first coat of lacquer or was it still wet?
Hello Mate. Your work and direction are brilliant. This is not an area I have much experience but I am working on a project, thanks to your video lessons. I wonder, is it likely that the dye can be controlled? I need to make a perfect square of just a few small inches within the main body of my project. If I use the dye and painters tape, will the tape curb the dye from running beyond the tape border? Cheers Bruv!
Tape would not stop the dye stain from running under the tape. You could use a razor to cut the wood fibers to prevent the dyes from traveling to an area, as well as a woodburning iron. I use razors when making USA flags and works quite well :) Practicing on some scrap will help you get a bit of practice ;)
Plz.what products did u use.
Do you think that the gloss sealer will stick together if I use it on jenga blocks. Would love to use it, but not want it to make the blocks sick together.
You could maybe use a light coat or two of Tru oil, Tung oil (polyermized Tung oil) or Danish Oil ;) That should seal the wood, but still feels like wood. Otherwise, after the lacquer fully cures for a few weeks, should be just fine. I dont think it will stick once it is fully cured.Thank you for watching!
LOVE. THIS!