Thank you so much for making these videos, I really appreciate all the information provided here. I have 4 700R4 and to repair 2 of them for my 2 first generation Chevy Astro Van and GMC Safari and the other 2 will be on standby as they are getting hard to come by.
Hi Nick Great videos. You show a spring and piston in the case accumulator in this series of videos and in tips and tricks you show the double piston method, just wondering which one is better. While I'm commenting could you repeat how to set up the tv cable with the using the pressure port. Thanks again
Hi Lonepine, use Sonnax's pinless accumulator piston and their stiff spring for the 4th accumulator. That's the most aggressive set up for that bore without blocking it off all togther. Install your trans pressure gauge in the pressure port behind the bell housing to check line pressures.
Hi Nick Thanks for the reply The 700 is going into a 55 GMC with a Chevy mild stoker for just cruising. On one of the 700 series you have the pressures at idle and stall I can't seem to find it can you help me out with that While I'm at it what should the clearance be on the 3-4 pack without the load release springs
You're welcome...Please subscribe to my channel if you haven't already. Search "B&M 700R4 Throttle Valve Cable Adjustment Instructions" and a few different options will come up.
I’m wanting to put mine behind my stock engine for now and next year put it behind a different engine with a larger cam shaft was looking at a converter with a 2200-2800 stall as the cam I’m looking at for the new engine needs a 2500+ stall converter however is that con get to much for a stock engine do you think? Or will the low end of that 2200 be okay
Composite pan gaskets that come in the overhaul kits (and are also sold separately) or VR performance steel-rubber gaskets for those that want them. DO NOT USE regular rubber or cork gaskets as they frequently leak.
Hi great video and honesty,, I have an 84 k10 4 wheel drive 700r4 that has no 3rd or OD , I know someone selling a 92 would that be the same to replace it while I rebuild the original and so far I cant find a source to know whether they are interchangeable and could a 2 wheel drive be interchangeable simply taking the tail housing off.. Thoughts
Hi Mike, thanks for watching. You cannot convert a 4WD 700R4 into a 2WD by simply swapping extension housings..You will need to disassemble the 2WD unit, remove the output shaft and install a 4WD output shaft in it's place then reassemble...If you're going to do that, you should simply rebuild your existing unit. You have this video series to help you with the rebuild as well as my 700R4 playlist that covers all aspects of 700R4 reassembly, etc. Pair those videos with the ATSG manual for the 700R4 and you'll be set. Check out my 700R4 and 4L60E Tools and Eqipment video if you want to know what tools, supplies, etc you need to have on hand to do the job: th-cam.com/video/HVo0uyfdJS0/w-d-xo.html
@@nickstransmissionsthanks for the reply I actually had 2 questions one you definitively answered but the more important one is can I replace my 84 700r4 4 wheel drive with a 92 700r4 4 wheel drive I think my original questions weren’t very clear and should not have combined them I’m confident the bolt up to the engine would be the same but the 92 has a bracket on it that I’m hoping can just be removed and bolt up the 84 transfer case I’ve only done 3 rebuilds but I love the complexity involved and learned how in tech school 40 years ago Hopefully this question is a bit more straightforward
Yes, you can bolt the 1992 unit in place of the 84 unit provided they are both 4WD transmissions. Just remove the bracket or anything else on the 92 that is getting in the way. I'm not too familiar w/the transfer cases since I almost never work on them...
Almost done with my rebuild and I couldn't have done it without your videos, thank you so much for taking the time to provide such great information! I do have a couple of issues though: My breather tube does not have an open hole near the TCC solenoid, it's been plugged, not sure if i should drill it out or not. Second issue is that I cannot find the exact replacement TCC solenoid, will another one work or should I just reuse the old one? Any help is greatly appreciated. Late 87 700r4.
Thanks, Travis - appreciate the kind words! The breather tube (assuming you're referring to the vent tube that comes out of the top of the case behind the bell housing) should have a corresponding port in the pump for it. Re your solenoid: Fitzall has a TCC Solenoid that will work - they run a single wire set up, I believe and you simply splice into the existing wiring harness. You can also purchase a Rostra wiring harness with the TCC solenoids integrated for about $40 or so...
Ok. That's not a breather tube (the little tube on the top of the case is the breather (aka vent) tube. You're describing the forward accumulator-pump feed pipe that sends fluid between accumulator and forward clutch. Does the transmission have an auxilary valve body? If it's a late 87, it should have one.
If the stator support portion of the pump assembly does not have the port for the forward accumulator's feed tube (sometimes it's referred to as a transfer tube) you have a non-auxiliary valve body pump installed. You will need to locate the correct stator support that is compatible with an aux valve body.
Hi Bill, I do take on rebuild work and will be setting up a website soon where folks can contact me directly. I'll have a video announcement once it's up and running.
So is that the last version of the valve body other then the final year valve body? And what else is needed with the wiring on the other side of the case to have lock up?
@@nickstransmissions okay that’s what I have a 1990 with only the one pressure switch they way you have it wired up it just needs a ground wire and 12 volt source coming in to lock up correct from either a toggle switch or a vacuum switch when going into a vehicle that did not have a 700r4/computer originally?
Great video! I'm doing 35:04 my first 700R4 from my 91 Corvette. The 3-4 clutch burned up. It had been rebuilt before, and all the hard parts appear to be in good shape. I would like to make the unit more robust with respect to the 3-4 clutch pack. I don't want harsh shifts, however. What extras would you recommend? I'm thinking Sonnax Smart Shell, Transgo Jr shift kit and 7-CS Spring kit. How about a bigger boost valve? What size? How about a Low and Reverse boost valve?
Thanks, bgehret3141 - appreciate the kind words! Good questions: I'd do all of those....the .472 boost valve is fine for most street applications however if you want to go all-out, run the Sonnax .500" boost valve kit. Put a Sonnax wide sun gear bushing in the rear sun gear - use red loctite on OD of the bushing as added insurance against walking at higher RPMs. Install a 2003+ reaction shaft if you're going to do the Sonnax smart shell. The 03+ reaction shafts replace the thrust washer on the front side of the sun shell with a torrington bearing. So between the Sonnax shell rollerizing the center support thrust (black thrust washer is deleted) and the 03+ reaction shaft bearing, you have rollerized the middle of the case. Install a Corvette 093 servo (install a new one if yours came with one as the pin bore wears). Buy two Sonnax pump body bushings, install one in the pump body and one in the rear location in the reverse input drum. Also, get Transgo's unbreakable pump ring kit and put that in place of the stock slide priming spring and pump rings. Beef up the 3-4 pack with a 4L65E spec clutch pack - you'll need the apply plate, backing plate, frictions and steels for a 4L65E. You'll fit 7 frictions in that clutch (keep clearance between .040-.050 and delete the load release springs). It's up to you if you also want to install the Transgo bleeder orifice from the 7-CS kit. Install an Alto wide 2-4 band and turn your reverse input drum to make it perfectly flat again. Drill the spacer plate out based on converter stall and desired shift firmness - make sure you keep the band release and 2-3 feed similar in size, otherwise flares or tie-ups may occur. Install Transgo's updated TV valve and spring set up to prevent TV valve sticking....Buy a new TV cable and yours is worn. Lastly, upgrade that forward drum with late model (97+) bonded pistons and corresponding updated return spring assembly. Between all those things, that trans should be able to handle up to 450-475 HP and 5500-6000 RPMs. LMK if you have any ?s.
@@nickstransmissions Ok, I'm putting the transmission together. I got what I thought was the 2003+ reaction shaft and bearing (GM 24217328 and GM 19356510) and the assembly with the Sonnax Smart Shell seems a little too long, as I can install the output shaft retaining ring. It seems the shaft isn't protruding throught the carrier far enough. Any thoughts what the issue might be? Bob
Hi Bob, check the torrington bearing between the front planet and reaction shaft to see if the bearing fits entirely in the pocket on the reaction shaft or if it's too wide...If it's too wide, it will cause the front planet to sit higher than it should, resulting in you not being able to expose the snap ring groove and install the snap ring on the output shaft. If it's not that, it's also possible that you installed the rear ring gear-to-case bearing upside down. Lastly, did you install the race that came w/the Sonnax Smart shell right side up? Those are the three things that come to mind atm...
@@nickstransmissions I turns out that the bearing packet in the new reaction shaft (03+ roller bearing type) is smaller than the pocket in the old reaction shaft (thrust washer type.) Also, the new roller bearing is a little bigger in diameter than the old one. The combination of new roller bearing and new reaction shaft would not assemble with the bearing fully seated in the pocket. Fortunately, the old bearing fit ok in the new reaction shaft and it felt like it was ok. (Interestingly, the new bearing fit into the pocket in the old reaction shaft.)
95-105 in lbs is what I recommend; I have never seen an 18 ft lb spec for any 700R4 or 4L60E (or frankly, any other GM transmission for that matter) pan bolt torque in any manual I've seen but I'm sure there's more manuals that I haven't seen then ones I have seen...18 ft lbs is the spec for the pump-case and pump half bolts for those units.
Hi Michael, while I don't give out my location on TH-cam, I'd be happy to answer any questions or provide info you need for your 700R4 project. Feel free to post your questions here and we can go from there..Thank you for watching!
I remember doing one of TRANSGO's kits in a 700 that I rebuilt many years ago. They wanted you to put a steel ball into the solenoid, ball came with kit. The trouble I had was that the lockup came on about 30 MPH. I ended up putting a two prong switch on the outside in one of the test plug holes, and breaking the circuit for lockup and running through switch. It delayed lockup until 4th gear. I'm guessing that you did this internally, but I didn't see if you had the steel ball installed, maybe they changed since I done it. I also remember putting a short flat piece in the TV valve valve train. Its funny how after many years of not doing something, it pops back in your head. Guess Alzheimer's ain't ready for me. I also remember grinding a small groove in towards valve body for the drain hole for the servo. the gasket has the notch, and they tell you never use RTV, or Permatex on pan gasket
Yep, I remember that little ball that Transgo use to have you put in that L/U solenoid but they removed/deleted that step and ball some point relatively recently. I looked at the instructions they have on the Transgo website for all 700R4 shift kits they offer and none had that step or ball documented. They prob eliminated it because it was forcing the trans/converter into lock up too early like you experienced (just a guess on my part).
@@nickstransmissions Most of the time, I used the Shift Kit that came in the green box, had a picture of Gil Younger on it. The dash 1, 2, & 3 kits were in a bigger box, opened up like a pizza box. Their tech line could help you through problems. TSR Racing are good guys too.
Great camera and video quality thanks ! Super easy to listen to and follow along.
Awesome, thank you Dr Webinstein!
Thank you so much for making these videos, I really appreciate all the information provided here. I have 4 700R4 and to repair 2 of them for my 2 first generation Chevy Astro Van and GMC Safari and the other 2 will be on standby as they are getting hard to come by.
You're welcome, man and thank you for watching!
Great idea to keep & hoard those 700R4s as they are definitely getting scarcer by the day.
Thank you for making these excellent videos, Nick!!
You're welcome, Andy - thank you for watching!
AWESOME MAN!!! Great info
Appreciate it!
Hi Nick Great videos. You show a spring and piston in the case accumulator in this series of videos and in tips and tricks you show the double piston method, just wondering which one is better. While I'm commenting could you repeat how to set up the tv cable with the using the pressure port. Thanks again
Hi Lonepine, use Sonnax's pinless accumulator piston and their stiff spring for the 4th accumulator. That's the most aggressive set up for that bore without blocking it off all togther.
Install your trans pressure gauge in the pressure port behind the bell housing to check line pressures.
Hi Nick Thanks for the reply The 700 is going into a 55 GMC with a Chevy mild stoker for just cruising. On one of the 700 series you have the pressures at idle and stall I can't seem to find it can you help me out with that While I'm at it what should the clearance be on the 3-4 pack without the load release springs
You're welcome...Please subscribe to my channel if you haven't already.
Search "B&M 700R4 Throttle Valve Cable Adjustment Instructions" and a few different options will come up.
I’m wanting to put mine behind my stock engine for now and next year put it behind a different engine with a larger cam shaft was looking at a converter with a 2200-2800 stall as the cam I’m looking at for the new engine needs a 2500+ stall converter however is that con get to much for a stock engine do you think? Or will the low end of that 2200 be okay
What pan gasket do you use?
Composite pan gaskets that come in the overhaul kits (and are also sold separately) or VR performance steel-rubber gaskets for those that want them. DO NOT USE regular rubber or cork gaskets as they frequently leak.
Hi great video and honesty,, I have an 84 k10 4 wheel drive 700r4 that has no 3rd or OD , I know someone selling a 92 would that be the same to replace it while I rebuild the original and so far I cant find a source to know whether they are interchangeable and could a 2 wheel drive be interchangeable simply taking the tail housing off.. Thoughts
Hi Mike, thanks for watching. You cannot convert a 4WD 700R4 into a 2WD by simply swapping extension housings..You will need to disassemble the 2WD unit, remove the output shaft and install a 4WD output shaft in it's place then reassemble...If you're going to do that, you should simply rebuild your existing unit.
You have this video series to help you with the rebuild as well as my 700R4 playlist that covers all aspects of 700R4 reassembly, etc. Pair those videos with the ATSG manual for the 700R4 and you'll be set.
Check out my 700R4 and 4L60E Tools and Eqipment video if you want to know what tools, supplies, etc you need to have on hand to do the job: th-cam.com/video/HVo0uyfdJS0/w-d-xo.html
@@nickstransmissionsthanks for the reply I actually had 2 questions one you definitively answered but the more important one is can I replace my 84 700r4 4 wheel drive with a 92 700r4 4 wheel drive I think my original questions weren’t very clear and should not have combined them
I’m confident the bolt up to the engine would be the same but the 92 has a bracket on it that I’m hoping can just be removed and bolt up the 84 transfer case
I’ve only done 3 rebuilds but I love the complexity involved and learned how in tech school 40 years ago
Hopefully this question is a bit more straightforward
Yes, you can bolt the 1992 unit in place of the 84 unit provided they are both 4WD transmissions. Just remove the bracket or anything else on the 92 that is getting in the way.
I'm not too familiar w/the transfer cases since I almost never work on them...
@@nickstransmissions Thank you!!
You're welcome, man.
Almost done with my rebuild and I couldn't have done it without your videos, thank you so much for taking the time to provide such great information! I do have a couple of issues though: My breather tube does not have an open hole near the TCC solenoid, it's been plugged, not sure if i should drill it out or not. Second issue is that I cannot find the exact replacement TCC solenoid, will another one work or should I just reuse the old one? Any help is greatly appreciated. Late 87 700r4.
Thanks, Travis - appreciate the kind words!
The breather tube (assuming you're referring to the vent tube that comes out of the top of the case behind the bell housing) should have a corresponding port in the pump for it.
Re your solenoid: Fitzall has a TCC Solenoid that will work - they run a single wire set up, I believe and you simply splice into the existing wiring harness. You can also purchase a Rostra wiring harness with the TCC solenoids integrated for about $40 or so...
@@nickstransmissions Actually I'm referring to the tube that goes over the valve body.
Ok. That's not a breather tube (the little tube on the top of the case is the breather (aka vent) tube.
You're describing the forward accumulator-pump feed pipe that sends fluid between accumulator and forward clutch.
Does the transmission have an auxilary valve body? If it's a late 87, it should have one.
@@nickstransmissions it does yes
If the stator support portion of the pump assembly does not have the port for the forward accumulator's feed tube (sometimes it's referred to as a transfer tube) you have a non-auxiliary valve body pump installed. You will need to locate the correct stator support that is compatible with an aux valve body.
Where is your shop located ? Do you take on rebuild work ?
Hi Bill, I do take on rebuild work and will be setting up a website soon where folks can contact me directly. I'll have a video announcement once it's up and running.
So is that the last version of the valve body other then the final year valve body? And what else is needed with the wiring on the other side of the case to have lock up?
It's the second to last version - the final year 700R4s (1993) had a diff valve body that included a third check ball for the rev input clutch.
@@nickstransmissions okay that’s what I have a 1990 with only the one pressure switch they way you have it wired up it just needs a ground wire and 12 volt source coming in to lock up correct from either a toggle switch or a vacuum switch when going into a vehicle that did not have a 700r4/computer originally?
Great video! I'm doing 35:04 my first 700R4 from my 91 Corvette. The 3-4 clutch burned up. It had been rebuilt before, and all the hard parts appear to be in good shape. I would like to make the unit more robust with respect to the 3-4 clutch pack. I don't want harsh shifts, however. What extras would you recommend?
I'm thinking Sonnax Smart Shell, Transgo Jr shift kit and 7-CS Spring kit.
How about a bigger boost valve? What size? How about a Low and Reverse boost valve?
Thanks, bgehret3141 - appreciate the kind words!
Good questions: I'd do all of those....the .472 boost valve is fine for most street applications however if you want to go all-out, run the Sonnax .500" boost valve kit. Put a Sonnax wide sun gear bushing in the rear sun gear - use red loctite on OD of the bushing as added insurance against walking at higher RPMs. Install a 2003+ reaction shaft if you're going to do the Sonnax smart shell. The 03+ reaction shafts replace the thrust washer on the front side of the sun shell with a torrington bearing. So between the Sonnax shell rollerizing the center support thrust (black thrust washer is deleted) and the 03+ reaction shaft bearing, you have rollerized the middle of the case. Install a Corvette 093 servo (install a new one if yours came with one as the pin bore wears).
Buy two Sonnax pump body bushings, install one in the pump body and one in the rear location in the reverse input drum. Also, get Transgo's unbreakable pump ring kit and put that in place of the stock slide priming spring and pump rings. Beef up the 3-4 pack with a 4L65E spec clutch pack - you'll need the apply plate, backing plate, frictions and steels for a 4L65E. You'll fit 7 frictions in that clutch (keep clearance between .040-.050 and delete the load release springs). It's up to you if you also want to install the Transgo bleeder orifice from the 7-CS kit.
Install an Alto wide 2-4 band and turn your reverse input drum to make it perfectly flat again.
Drill the spacer plate out based on converter stall and desired shift firmness - make sure you keep the band release and 2-3 feed similar in size, otherwise flares or tie-ups may occur. Install Transgo's updated TV valve and spring set up to prevent TV valve sticking....Buy a new TV cable and yours is worn.
Lastly, upgrade that forward drum with late model (97+) bonded pistons and corresponding updated return spring assembly.
Between all those things, that trans should be able to handle up to 450-475 HP and 5500-6000 RPMs.
LMK if you have any ?s.
@@nickstransmissions Ok, I'm putting the transmission together. I got what I thought was the 2003+ reaction shaft and bearing (GM 24217328 and GM 19356510) and the assembly with the Sonnax Smart Shell seems a little too long, as I can install the output shaft retaining ring. It seems the shaft isn't protruding throught the carrier far enough. Any thoughts what the issue might be?
Bob
Correction: I cannot install the output shaft retaining ring
Hi Bob, check the torrington bearing between the front planet and reaction shaft to see if the bearing fits entirely in the pocket on the reaction shaft or if it's too wide...If it's too wide, it will cause the front planet to sit higher than it should, resulting in you not being able to expose the snap ring groove and install the snap ring on the output shaft. If it's not that, it's also possible that you installed the rear ring gear-to-case bearing upside down. Lastly, did you install the race that came w/the Sonnax Smart shell right side up? Those are the three things that come to mind atm...
@@nickstransmissions I turns out that the bearing packet in the new reaction shaft (03+ roller bearing type) is smaller than the pocket in the old reaction shaft (thrust washer type.) Also, the new roller bearing is a little bigger in diameter than the old one. The combination of new roller bearing and new reaction shaft would not assemble with the bearing fully seated in the pocket. Fortunately, the old bearing fit ok in the new reaction shaft and it felt like it was ok. (Interestingly, the new bearing fit into the pocket in the old reaction shaft.)
You did 98in lbs on the oil pan bolts? I had one strip the manual I have believe said 18 ft lbs
95-105 in lbs is what I recommend; I have never seen an 18 ft lb spec for any 700R4 or 4L60E (or frankly, any other GM transmission for that matter) pan bolt torque in any manual I've seen but I'm sure there's more manuals that I haven't seen then ones I have seen...18 ft lbs is the spec for the pump-case and pump half bolts for those units.
@ sorry it says 12 ft lbs it’s a Haynes manual
Nick, what state are you located in. I was hoping to email you and get your advice on a 700r4 rebuild
Hi Michael, while I don't give out my location on TH-cam, I'd be happy to answer any questions or provide info you need for your 700R4 project. Feel free to post your questions here and we can go from there..Thank you for watching!
I remember doing one of TRANSGO's kits in a 700 that I rebuilt many years ago. They wanted you to put a steel ball into the solenoid, ball came with kit. The trouble I had was that the lockup came on about 30 MPH. I ended up putting a two prong switch on the outside in one of the test plug holes, and breaking the circuit for lockup and running through switch. It delayed lockup until 4th gear. I'm guessing that you did this internally, but I didn't see if you had the steel ball installed, maybe they changed since I done it. I also remember putting a short flat piece in the TV valve valve train. Its funny how after many years of not doing something, it pops back in your head. Guess Alzheimer's ain't ready for me. I also remember grinding a small groove in towards valve body for the drain hole for the servo. the gasket has the notch, and they tell you never use RTV, or Permatex on pan gasket
Yep, I remember that little ball that Transgo use to have you put in that L/U solenoid but they removed/deleted that step and ball some point relatively recently. I looked at the instructions they have on the Transgo website for all 700R4 shift kits they offer and none had that step or ball documented. They prob eliminated it because it was forcing the trans/converter into lock up too early like you experienced (just a guess on my part).
@@nickstransmissions Most of the time, I used the Shift Kit that came in the green box, had a picture of Gil Younger on it. The dash 1, 2, & 3 kits were in a bigger box, opened up like a pizza box. Their tech line could help you through problems. TSR Racing are good guys too.