Love this fixturing method. Great way to use a universal work offset for multiple operations which eliminates the chance for human error and reduces risk. Great job Berry!
Im a qualified mechanic, but a CNC amateur/auto-learn, and i've a cheap and little 3+1 Axis to mill my own project and alluminium parts. Every time i see your company at work and the brutality you use for mill your parts... all that chips fly around... your strategy in fixturing and all the other stuff. It's always amazing man. Boom.
I use double sided counterbored tabs (if the part is thick enough). Basically you can flip the part with the tabs on the outside of the profile. Then sometimes 2 tabs have pin holes that I rebore after the first op. It works great. The excess is removed in the first op. This way you show is all fine and dandy without flatness callouts. Double sided counterbored tabs keeps thing pretty flat and that "pre deburring" of the "bottom side" (op2 bottom) is nice. I have always loved having the bottom deburred because like you said cutting tabs off is really easy, if you still need to finish the profile you can. Since the deburred bottom allows you to stay off the fixture. A lot of guys cut in to the fixture. Most of the time it's unnecessary, just have a really sharp finishing tool so you aren't worried about tapered walls. I make my tabs where my clamps can be used after the tab is cut away. I try to show people it but for some reason people don't listen. Tabs are so powerful.
I like that idea with double sided counterbores so you can recut them on each side. That would really help if you have a material that has stress in it and is prone to warp. Thanks for sharing
That’s not a nonsense, but you need to keep in mind two things at least: you need to have a suitable drill for material you’re using and perfect runout. Without two things you don’t beat this nice tolerances
I would classify as an intermediate cnc Machinist. And I have to say doing tabs have always been a problem on my last job. Like accidentally stripping shoulder bolts on an aluminum fixture. Or the programmer didn't made enough clearance for the bolt. Then the same issue with dowel pins as well. Usually the spindle speed is off so the hole becomes a little oblongated. Then also the issue of flatness. Then yet again we didn't use a torque wrench.
It’s all a learning process. Definitely use a torque wrench to the specified torque call out on the packaging of miteebites or the webpage. Doing spring passes inside holes is a good idea to ensure it is perfectly round. Have a great day and thanks for the comment🤙
Best things I’ve started doing lately is making fixtures. Instead of playing the, “oh it half worked last time, it’ll go this time” game I’m making sure that next time it’ll only take a few minutes and I’m up and running a difficult to hold part.
I see solid carbide seems to be tool of choice for roughing ally from the videos I have seen. Have u tried insert cutters before? Like sumitomo WAX for example. High centre clearance, high rake insert. Most brands have their own version, I’m sure kennametal would also.
I always have to remind myself if I'm machining stuff like branding irons that it has to be machined in reverse. Happened once or twice over my career so far.
Love this fixturing method. Great way to use a universal work offset for multiple operations which eliminates the chance for human error and reduces risk. Great job Berry!
Im a qualified mechanic, but a CNC amateur/auto-learn, and i've a cheap and little 3+1 Axis to mill my own project and alluminium parts.
Every time i see your company at work and the brutality you use for mill your parts... all that chips fly around... your strategy in fixturing and all the other stuff.
It's always amazing man.
Boom.
Definitely a slick fixturing method. The less you need to dial in the better your chance for success. Real solutions right here.
As a beginner machinist i thank you guys for all these videos because i learn something new every time. Love you guys and love this trade.
I use double sided counterbored tabs (if the part is thick enough). Basically you can flip the part with the tabs on the outside of the profile. Then sometimes 2 tabs have pin holes that I rebore after the first op. It works great. The excess is removed in the first op. This way you show is all fine and dandy without flatness callouts. Double sided counterbored tabs keeps thing pretty flat and that "pre deburring" of the "bottom side" (op2 bottom) is nice. I have always loved having the bottom deburred because like you said cutting tabs off is really easy, if you still need to finish the profile you can. Since the deburred bottom allows you to stay off the fixture. A lot of guys cut in to the fixture. Most of the time it's unnecessary, just have a really sharp finishing tool so you aren't worried about tapered walls. I make my tabs where my clamps can be used after the tab is cut away. I try to show people it but for some reason people don't listen. Tabs are so powerful.
I like that idea with double sided counterbores so you can recut them on each side. That would really help if you have a material that has stress in it and is prone to warp. Thanks for sharing
I love this kind of work flow walk through! Keep these comming! Its like dropping by a buddies shop and learning a new trick!
love being in this trade and learning every day
Wish to be a great cnc machinist like these guys one day
Keep watching brother! We share our tips, tricks, and processes every single day, so we can all learn from each other!!!
Berry making it look easy! Love the editing on this too, awesome video.
Killed it Barry, still the GOAT. 🐐🐐🐐
looking forward to the second op
Great video,. Keep this guy on camera. Put him on more often. Good personality. Makes a watchable video
Thanks Tim! But why you trying to make me work harder 😂😂
I liked this. Waiting for part 2
Cool!!! Can’t wait to see the second op. I like that the drill also acts as a reamer. I learned something new today…..
That’s not a nonsense, but you need to keep in mind two things at least: you need to have a suitable drill for material you’re using and perfect runout. Without two things you don’t beat this nice tolerances
I would classify as an intermediate cnc Machinist. And I have to say doing tabs have always been a problem on my last job. Like accidentally stripping shoulder bolts on an aluminum fixture. Or the programmer didn't made enough clearance for the bolt. Then the same issue with dowel pins as well. Usually the spindle speed is off so the hole becomes a little oblongated. Then also the issue of flatness. Then yet again we didn't use a torque wrench.
It’s all a learning process. Definitely use a torque wrench to the specified torque call out on the packaging of miteebites or the webpage.
Doing spring passes inside holes is a good idea to ensure it is perfectly round.
Have a great day and thanks for the comment🤙
Best things I’ve started doing lately is making fixtures. Instead of playing the, “oh it half worked last time, it’ll go this time” game I’m making sure that next time it’ll only take a few minutes and I’m up and running a difficult to hold part.
Was the lookahead lagging a bit, or was it off? Anyhow, great fixturing technique!
I would love to see more about those fixture expansion pins and how to use them
pretty cool ideas and technique
Pretty cool technique for one off parts.
I see solid carbide seems to be tool of choice for roughing ally from the videos I have seen. Have u tried insert cutters before? Like sumitomo WAX for example. High centre clearance, high rake insert. Most brands have their own version, I’m sure kennametal would also.
That's some shocking welding on that cast.
Tip flip it the right side as you have programed it (learned it the hard way -_-)
I always have to remind myself if I'm machining stuff like branding irons that it has to be machined in reverse. Happened once or twice over my career so far.
That is a sweet method. Looks familiar. Do you send it to the sheet metal department to cut the tabs? Haha Keep up the good work Love me some Barry!
Hahaha no Scotty, the tabs on this bad boy were only .005" thick, I just grabbed it out of the stock with zero effort!
Good job
I think this is the method proto labs uses
I've always thought this method was awesome but I never cut aluminum so using this method is difficult to justify in steel and tool grade steel
niceee 😇
Love it!
Nice tatoo barry 😁
Hahaha Im a machinist not a ballerina LOL
Dude I love mighty bites.
Hate when someone over tightens them
The names of these videos... I mean getting a little conceded, maybe just me but chill
Cool, BOOOOM!
👌👌👌👌
Was this video of the good parts or the first parts?😉
NOT IMPRESSED. angle grinder with a cut off wheel could achieve the same thing