I’ve had my Greenerd #4 for about 12 years now and appreciate the feel. Knowing how much pressure it takes to install or remove bushings is important when doing repetitive tasks. The hydraulic units may have more power, but give me no enjoyment. These are a good quality heavy tool that takes up little room.
*Works perfectly for my use as a heated press **MyBest.Tools** Space between the ram jack and the base is a little tight. Make sure you set the ram jack arm so that it's in a position for you to get maximum leverage on whatever you're pressing. You may have to unbolt the front plate of the press and realign the ram in the teeth so that the arm is not at an awkward angle when fully cranked down.Other than aligning the ram in the teeth with the crank arm this .5 ton arbor press comes out of the box pretty much ready to use.*
I could give you prices but a quick internet search will give you a ballpark. eBay will give you high market prices. Use that as a gage to hunt on Craigslist etc for a good deal.
Hey , could i get your help . Im missing my counter weight and would like to make a similar one in my shop. Possibly cut one on the torch table or maby cast a new one . Would you be able to do a quick sketch with measurments of the counter weight ?
Hey thanks for getting back to me , after contemplating going for the same size i decided to make and cast a 12 inch wheel . Thanks again for the video
What if the shaft or arbor you are trying to press a bearing onto is say 7" long? How do you keep that shaft plumb as you press the bearing onto it? Thank you
There are lots of ways of doing this. Usually you need some kind of spacer or fixture to hold the part well if you really have to be precisely perpendicular. If the daisy wheel is not good enough or doesn't fit your part, you can use pieces of flat ground stock to hold your part. Usually there is a flange on the shaft you can push against. One helpful way is to use tubing as we showed in the video-turn both ends in a lathe to get parallel and the walls of the tube will keep the part vertical. Its often not necessary to be perfectly lined up to get a pressed on bearing to slide on a shaft correctly. There are ways to direct force a bit if you need to as well. If your part leans to the left for example, you could use a small spacer on the right side of your part to even the load. This has to be done carefully but works well. The higher the part sticks above the knee, the more careful you have to be. The higher it is, the bigger the tilting forces will be-increasing the risk of the machine ejecting the part. You could of course always face off the bottom of the ram if it is worn, or even make some kind of adjustable faceplate for the ram you could indicate in to match the table.
@@TigermothRacingTV thank you! I'm not a machinist.im just starting to set up to rebuild my vintage electric power tools such as circular saws and drills, etc. So I'm referring specifically to pressing bearings onto armatures. The arbors on the circular saws are short and should not be a problem,as you have shown. But I'm not so sure about the armatures. Thanks again
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I’ve had my Greenerd #4 for about 12 years now and appreciate the feel. Knowing how much pressure it takes to install or remove bushings is important when doing repetitive tasks. The hydraulic units may have more power, but give me no enjoyment. These are a good quality heavy tool that takes up little room.
*Works perfectly for my use as a heated press **MyBest.Tools** Space between the ram jack and the base is a little tight. Make sure you set the ram jack arm so that it's in a position for you to get maximum leverage on whatever you're pressing. You may have to unbolt the front plate of the press and realign the ram in the teeth so that the arm is not at an awkward angle when fully cranked down.Other than aligning the ram in the teeth with the crank arm this .5 ton arbor press comes out of the box pretty much ready to use.*
Oh that was nice and relaxing! Nice press/tool, lucky you
Great video, good explanations, good camera work. Subscribers will come. Keep working hard
Thank you!
This is great, thanks for sharing. I was looking at getting this press, this video helped me alot. Thanks!
Great, thanks! I couldn't find a lot on these when I was hunting for one.
Another good review. I would like to know the approximate price on some of these machines.
I could give you prices but a quick internet search will give you a ballpark. eBay will give you high market prices. Use that as a gage to hunt on Craigslist etc for a good deal.
Hey , could i get your help . Im missing my counter weight and would like to make a similar one in my shop. Possibly cut one on the torch table or maby cast a new one . Would you be able to do a quick sketch with measurments of the counter weight ?
I made a simple drawing for you but I cant figure out how to post the photo here?
Perhaps put it on instagram i just followed you :)
Hey tigermoth , what is the wheel diameter on the hand wheel . Mine is broken and wanted to cast a new one .
Thanks
8.75 inches.
@@TigermothRacingTV thanks buddy
Hey thanks for getting back to me , after contemplating going for the same size i decided to make and cast a 12 inch wheel . Thanks again for the video
Up date as well casted a new hamd wheel.
What if the shaft or arbor you are trying to press a bearing onto is say 7" long? How do you keep that shaft plumb as you press the bearing onto it? Thank you
There are lots of ways of doing this. Usually you need some kind of spacer or fixture to hold the part well if you really have to be precisely perpendicular. If the daisy wheel is not good enough or doesn't fit your part, you can use pieces of flat ground stock to hold your part. Usually there is a flange on the shaft you can push against. One helpful way is to use tubing as we showed in the video-turn both ends in a lathe to get parallel and the walls of the tube will keep the part vertical. Its often not necessary to be perfectly lined up to get a pressed on bearing to slide on a shaft correctly.
There are ways to direct force a bit if you need to as well. If your part leans to the left for example, you could use a small spacer on the right side of your part to even the load. This has to be done carefully but works well. The higher the part sticks above the knee, the more careful you have to be. The higher it is, the bigger the tilting forces will be-increasing the risk of the machine ejecting the part.
You could of course always face off the bottom of the ram if it is worn, or even make some kind of adjustable faceplate for the ram you could indicate in to match the table.
@@TigermothRacingTV thank you! I'm not a machinist.im just starting to set up to rebuild my vintage electric power tools such as circular saws and drills, etc. So I'm referring specifically to pressing bearings onto armatures. The arbors on the circular saws are short and should not be a problem,as you have shown. But I'm not so sure about the armatures. Thanks again