I've got a five gallon bucket of bluing and a strainer basket i dip all my parts in the bucket,does a excellent job, been using the same solution for three years..
Another good video. My 2 cents on cold blue. - Caswell concentrate. 1 part caswell to 9 parts water or anything in-between to suit. - Thoroughly wash with water and degreaser, prior to using solvent of choice. - Soak parts in solution while lightly buffing with fine steel wool until desired results achieved. - Wipe and oil. While it's not as nice as hot blue, the results are very agreeable and consistent. Thanks for the video 🤙
I have never blued anything that I've made, but was thinking of doing so to 13 BXA tool holders that I'm starting to make. However, after watching your video, I have decided that not bluing projects will likely continue, even though your results looked very nice. I think that you have saved me from a lot of tedious, mind-numbing work.
Ive done large sheetmetal parts this way. Stair cases and fireplace surrounds in high end homes and businesses. Note that a large sheet takes many hands doing it all at once. Of special note DO NOT! Let your application device drip on the steel when its still dry. The spot will be there forever. Which leads me to my recommendation. The key is full wet coats. If you can dip it is best but a brush can be used also. We used spray bottles for big and fast wet coverage. Did you see where your brush went dry as you brushed the plate? That's also where a lot of the inconsistency is. You need a full wet coat, but DO NOT let it run off the edges. It will leave the run marks you got. A perfect job is totally doable. We found some clients auctualy wanted it to be inconsistent. We also came to the conclusion on the big surface area parts it looked just like our powder coating that is much cheeper for much less effort. Sorry for the long write up but it was a long process to figure out.
Great vdeo! I am curious if you have every had experience with bluing media blasted items and if you have advice for those. IN this case it would not be for appearance, but really corrosion resistance without adding a layer of thickness that paint or similar coatings would offer. I ask because I have some non machined products that were orignally some kind of zinc plating. It's a keeper plate that goes inside an alternator. They still suffered from corrosion so I am curious if I could blast and then cold blue. Thanks for any input.
Surprisingly still blotchyness occurs, but the real issue is the quantity of fluid needed to accomplish this on larger parts. Because that technique is better. However at 15$ for 4oz of oxpho blue that will get expensive and when you submerge you cannot really reuse fluid since the part oxidation contaminationes the solution.
Great video Kyle. I recently did a video on cold blueing some parts a couple weeks ago. I have solutions from 4 different companies. One that seems to make a difference with blotchiness is “Precision Brand” because of the prep cleaner. There appears to be an active ingredient working on the surface. Here’s the link where it can be seen: th-cam.com/video/Lz1-uDofSm0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3J7EnewMEeJIR89H
I've got a five gallon bucket of bluing and a strainer basket i dip all my parts in the bucket,does a excellent job, been using the same solution for three years..
That’s a great idea. How much did that bucket cost. At the rate I’ve paid for Bluewing, a 5 gallon bucket would be easily over $500.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair it was gave 2 me, don't know the cost, I'd say high..
We also bought it by the expensive five gallon bucket. We were charging high end work prices so it was OK for us.
Another good video. My 2 cents on cold blue.
- Caswell concentrate. 1 part caswell to 9 parts water or anything in-between to suit.
- Thoroughly wash with water and degreaser, prior to using solvent of choice.
- Soak parts in solution while lightly buffing with fine steel wool until desired results achieved.
- Wipe and oil.
While it's not as nice as hot blue, the results are very agreeable and consistent. Thanks for the video 🤙
Absolutely
Great video, thanks for putting in such time and effort. Your newly blued parts all look great. All the best, Ian
Thanks, Ian
I think that it came out nice.
Like with anything, practice and technique.
Thanks for sharing the process.
Absolutely
I have never blued anything that I've made, but was thinking of doing so to 13 BXA tool holders that I'm starting to make. However, after watching your video, I have decided that not bluing projects will likely continue, even though your results looked very nice. I think that you have saved me from a lot of tedious, mind-numbing work.
Great glad it was helpful
Nice video. You didn't mention Parkerizing specifically, but Mark Presling has shown how he does Parkerizing and frankly it looks pretty easy.
Good call
Happy Saturday my Friend🌴☀️
You too.
Ive done large sheetmetal parts this way. Stair cases and fireplace surrounds in high end homes and businesses. Note that a large sheet takes many hands doing it all at once. Of special note DO NOT! Let your application device drip on the steel when its still dry. The spot will be there forever. Which leads me to my recommendation. The key is full wet coats. If you can dip it is best but a brush can be used also. We used spray bottles for big and fast wet coverage. Did you see where your brush went dry as you brushed the plate? That's also where a lot of the inconsistency is. You need a full wet coat, but DO NOT let it run off the edges. It will leave the run marks you got. A perfect job is totally doable. We found some clients auctualy wanted it to be inconsistent. We also came to the conclusion on the big surface area parts it looked just like our powder coating that is much cheeper for much less effort.
Sorry for the long write up but it was a long process to figure out.
Absolutely thanks for sharing
Great vdeo! I am curious if you have every had experience with bluing media blasted items and if you have advice for those. IN this case it would not be for appearance, but really corrosion resistance without adding a layer of thickness that paint or similar coatings would offer. I ask because I have some non machined products that were orignally some kind of zinc plating. It's a keeper plate that goes inside an alternator. They still suffered from corrosion so I am curious if I could blast and then cold blue. Thanks for any input.
I haven’t done any blueing on blasted parts. I don’t have a sandblaster anymore. I get one again someday. I nicer one!
I wonder if spraying it or dipping the parts, would work better than a brush.
Maybe although never seen anyone spray blueing
I thought of that too. Will give it a shot.
Hi i never done it but have seen zinc plating in a home hope you tube video. if you do a part 2 can you cover plating . Thanks JM
Will do thanks
what happens if you fully submerge parts in bluing?
Surprisingly still blotchyness occurs, but the real issue is the quantity of fluid needed to accomplish this on larger parts. Because that technique is better. However at 15$ for 4oz of oxpho blue that will get expensive and when you submerge you cannot really reuse fluid since the part oxidation contaminationes the solution.
Rather than cotton balls try LINT FREE MEDICAL WIPES (not gauze swabs) I get mine through a local chemist shop, they do need to be ordered in.
Good call
Great video Kyle. I recently did a video on cold blueing some parts a couple weeks ago. I have solutions from 4 different companies. One that seems to make a difference with blotchiness is “Precision Brand” because of the prep cleaner. There appears to be an active ingredient working on the surface. Here’s the link where it can be seen: th-cam.com/video/Lz1-uDofSm0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3J7EnewMEeJIR89H
Awesome Gary. I subbed. Will check it out
It looks like the stripes on your plate are due to still having residue on it. You can still see the marks from where you wiped it down.
Maybe