@@Joe_Dirt_Racingheyyhey bossman,ive replaced all the common sense things and as soon i start my 5.3 07silv i lose oil pressure after 4or5mins everytime,could it be my lifters or maybe something more serious u think?? Id appreciate any help,after 3mech and $1.600.00 later i cant figure it out
@@Joe_Dirt_Racing started with the o.p sensor,the dropd pan and did pickup tub gasket and pan gasket,then oil pump,i did try motor mix stuff(ran it for 2mins only because made bad sounds, changed oil) otherwise doesnt make any unusual noise and runs normal.any suggestions would be greatly appreciated man,its my work truck and only so im screwed without it
It could be bearings in the motor if you’ve replaced the oil pump and no change, might could possibly be the barbell at the back of the motor bleeding pressure too. Usually the oil pump o ring / oil pump are the culprit for low pressure all of a sudden though.
I took apart a 2004 Tahoe the other day with 220k miles and the o ring was still soft somewhat. It wasn’t brittle like most and it was the factory one. I was surprised.
Also, old turkey pans and cheap dollar store Tupperware work well. Along with regular oil drains. Turkey pans are great drip pans, free after Thanksgiving anyhow.
Concrete mixing tubs from Home Depot. Low profile and I think you can get 5 or 12 gallon ones. 5qt pans don't go very far when a trans and oil change on your diesel is like 3 gallons
Did you have trouble taking off the bottom head bolts because of the headers?bc I’m having trouble trying to get them and I tried moving the headers out the way
Theys a sequence going off TDC (top dead center) I’ve done it before and I’ve also torqued all to 22ftlbs in a rush to make a race and let it ride. No issues. But if you’d like to go by the procedure I’ll copy and paste a link for you. www.michiganmotorsports.com/ls-series-rocker-arm-instructions/
Yessir , 210k miles and still had cross hatching in the cylinder walls. If you change the oil like your suppose to and keep up maitence these motors can last 200-300k no problem.
If you’re just replacing those then yeah, because the proper torquing procedure for the rocker arms are finding TDC. I’ve torqued them all 22ft lbs after installing without finding TDC open/closed valves with no issues. But I’d do it the proper way for peace of mind if you’ve got the time.
How long would this take someone who's never done it? My lifters are not making noise. But that doesn't mean they wont. Currently at 256k miles and the only issues i have are pan gasket leaking and pickup tube o ring is going out
Hey man sorry for the late response I would say anywhere from 10-20hrs depending on your mechanical ability. If the lifters aren’t making noise I wouldn’t touch them till they did. How’s your oil pressure?
@@Joe_Dirt_Racing Mine are not making noise. Oil pressure is unknown, as I am on my second oil pressure sending unit and it the gauge says 80psi. For a while, this second one was working correctly and was reading 30-50psi depending on rpm, never dipped below 30 or so during warm idle.
Did you have to take off the 3 bottom screws for the exhaust manifold to move it aside because the top screws isn’t giving me enough room to unscrew the head bolts
Im getting a tick on mine when its warmed up. Its a tick every like 2 seconds or so. Its not as load and noticeable as the regular ticks i usually hear in these when lifters are bad. Could it be a lifter 04 silverado?
Was gonna buy a 06' 1500 that just barely started having lifter failure, don't know if i wanna goo thru this hassle of replacing unless i get it for a really good price.
I would suggest to go on and start getting the parts together to cam it and get some fresh lifters in there before it gets any worse and could potentially cause more damage to the motor.
@@Joe_Dirt_Racing dang, that's a long way from Dallas TX. wish I could find someone trustworthy here , but it seems like all the reputable mechanics have gone by the way side or are in a shop I cant seem to find.
If you have a Gen 3 motor without the DOD/AFM stuff it’s not a must if all the lines are good. If you have a Gen 4 motor with DOD though and your replacing your dod lifters and deleting it you have to replace the cam.
Mine started ticking after it warmed up and it turned out to be a worn rocker arm. The needle bearings wear that takes up most of the lifter preload. Then after the head and block warm up that takes up the remaining lash. There's only about .050 of preload so not much.
@JoeDirtRacing123 Here's an audio clip of my 2012 Yukon 6.2 right before I changed out the rockers. I ended up changing all under that cover but #8 exhaust was the one in question. It's the roller lifter making the tap, but it's caused by a worn rocker. The cam is just the point of initial contact. FWIW, the valvetrain was near spotless, has had a very good service life. I've seen many other AFM lifter failures and they looked heavily varnished. Not saying that's the cause, but just a FYI. th-cam.com/video/a2ck5FZWZ4U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=G79gskd9_B4KWeWx
@JoeDirtRacing123 The factory rockers aren't really that tight, I was surprised...not like a nice Comp Camp roller trunion, OE is a little loose from the box....very odd but that's how they are.
Mine has the noice some times it comes some times it goes away oil oressure it at 46 cold and around 35 worm don iddle if i give it gas it will pass 40
This may be a dumb question I come from the oldschool of Chevy where after cam install you brought number 1 up to Tdc set your distributor and adjust valves to zero lash and so on theirs no need for any of this on these ls motors at all
There is a procedure you can go by going off TDC , but I’ve always just torqued all the rockers to 22ft/lbs then rotate the engine some and re check torque. Never had a issue doing it this way. These rockers are self aligning. Set zero lash when checking pushrod length if you’ve changed something that they need to be checked length wise for.
22ft lbs first pass, 90 degrees second pass then another 90 degrees except on the two shorter head bolts on the ends only 50 degrees on them. All the little 10mm bolts are 22ft lbs.
For something like this $800-1000 depends on parts and if you replaced anything extra. That’s just pulling the heads and doing lifters. Leaving the factory camshaft.
Im curious on whay you found. I have a 2001 tahoe with a 5.3 and it makes a sqeaking sound for like 15 seconds if i havent started it for about a day. Its not belt squeak either, i just replaced the idler, tentioner and belt.@cadenfaulkner4671
Might have to try that one time, heard you can do that to clean a engine inside like say one that hasn’t had oil changed regularly. Have you had success with it fixing a noisy lifter?
Exactly what mine is doing right now as we speak thank you for this video!! For real life saver taking mine apart rn
Thanks for watching! Plan to do a more in depth video on the next one.
That’s exactly what mines doing! Comes and goes like that after it warms up!
This one was the first time I had ran into this issue. New set of lifters fixed it though!
@@Joe_Dirt_Racingheyyhey bossman,ive replaced all the common sense things and as soon i start my 5.3 07silv i lose oil pressure after 4or5mins everytime,could it be my lifters or maybe something more serious u think?? Id appreciate any help,after 3mech and $1.600.00 later i cant figure it out
What all have you replaced so far jeremy?
@@Joe_Dirt_Racing started with the o.p sensor,the dropd pan and did pickup tub gasket and pan gasket,then oil pump,i did try motor mix stuff(ran it for 2mins only because made bad sounds, changed oil) otherwise doesnt make any unusual noise and runs normal.any suggestions would be greatly appreciated man,its my work truck and only so im screwed without it
It could be bearings in the motor if you’ve replaced the oil pump and no change, might could possibly be the barbell at the back of the motor bleeding pressure too. Usually the oil pump o ring / oil pump are the culprit for low pressure all of a sudden though.
Mine was doing the same noise it was the oil pickup tube O ring it has been quiet ever since. Exept for the ac tensioner clicking.
I took apart a 2004 Tahoe the other day with 220k miles and the o ring was still soft somewhat. It wasn’t brittle like most and it was the factory one. I was surprised.
Also, old turkey pans and cheap dollar store Tupperware work well. Along with regular oil drains. Turkey pans are great drip pans, free after Thanksgiving anyhow.
I need to find me a really big tupperware that would work awesome. Just need it really big but not tall.
Concrete mixing tubs from Home Depot. Low profile and I think you can get 5 or 12 gallon ones. 5qt pans don't go very far when a trans and oil change on your diesel is like 3 gallons
Did you have trouble taking off the bottom head bolts because of the headers?bc I’m having trouble trying to get them and I tried moving the headers out the way
After the exhaust manifold is unbolted i use a pry bar to push the manifold over to the side enough to get the bolts out
What was the torque sequence for the rockers
Theys a sequence going off TDC (top dead center) I’ve done it before and I’ve also torqued all to 22ftlbs in a rush to make a race and let it ride. No issues. But if you’d like to go by the procedure I’ll copy and paste a link for you.
www.michiganmotorsports.com/ls-series-rocker-arm-instructions/
Sometimes the exhaust leaks and makes similar ticks, but that definitely didnt sound good initially. These trucks are great though.
Yessir , 210k miles and still had cross hatching in the cylinder walls. If you change the oil like your suppose to and keep up maitence these motors can last 200-300k no problem.
If I’m looking to tear down my engine to replace the rocker arms and pushrods will I need to try to make sure cylinder 1 is at tdc or anything?
If you’re just replacing those then yeah, because the proper torquing procedure for the rocker arms are finding TDC. I’ve torqued them all 22ft lbs after installing without finding TDC open/closed valves with no issues. But I’d do it the proper way for peace of mind if you’ve got the time.
@@Joe_Dirt_Racing thanks appreciate it
How long would this take someone who's never done it? My lifters are not making noise. But that doesn't mean they wont. Currently at 256k miles and the only issues i have are pan gasket leaking and pickup tube o ring is going out
Hey man sorry for the late response I would say anywhere from 10-20hrs depending on your mechanical ability. If the lifters aren’t making noise I wouldn’t touch them till they did. How’s your oil pressure?
@@Joe_Dirt_Racing Mine are not making noise. Oil pressure is unknown, as I am on my second oil pressure sending unit and it the gauge says 80psi. For a while, this second one was working correctly and was reading 30-50psi depending on rpm, never dipped below 30 or so during warm idle.
@@thomasmullinsiii7759 what made you say the o ring is failing then?
Did you have to take off the 3 bottom screws for the exhaust manifold to move it aside because the top screws isn’t giving me enough room to unscrew the head bolts
You can but they can be a pain sometimes to get off, I used a pry bar to get them off the head enough to get the bolts out.
@@Joe_Dirt_RacingI did mine the same way. I also didn’t bother removing dipstick either.
Is there somewhere I can see the sequence in step by step order for torquing the heads?
help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05187/en-us
Let me know if that link works , I just googled “LS motor head bolt sequence” and that was the first one to pop up straight from summit
Im getting a tick on mine when its warmed up. Its a tick every like 2 seconds or so. Its not as load and noticeable as the regular ticks i usually hear in these when lifters are bad. Could it be a lifter 04 silverado?
It could definitely be a lifter. Could be a few other things also.
What Torque wrench is that reads degrees ?
Different companies make them but I have a digital craftsman one from Lowe’s
Was gonna buy a 06' 1500 that just barely started having lifter failure, don't know if i wanna goo thru this hassle of replacing unless i get it for a really good price.
Yeah the price would have to reflect it for sure! Not a bad job though if you decided to tackle it.
@@Joe_Dirt_Racing thanks for the lil extra motivation.
Did you use regular lifters as opposed to afm lifters?
The Gen 3 LS stuff doesn’t have DOD so just regular LS7 style lifters were used.
my has the tick until it reach 210* temperature wise is not super loud . i’m thinking about camming the truck so i’m not really sure what to do there
I would suggest to go on and start getting the parts together to cam it and get some fresh lifters in there before it gets any worse and could potentially cause more damage to the motor.
where are you located. you wanna do another top end . i got same ticking noise and random misfires.
I’m in Eastern NC
@@Joe_Dirt_Racing dang, that's a long way from Dallas TX. wish I could find someone trustworthy here , but it seems like all the reputable mechanics have gone by the way side or are in a shop I cant seem to find.
Do you have to change bolts also that connected to the rockers?
No those are reusable.
Do I need to replace my cam when I replace lifters?
If you have a Gen 3 motor without the DOD/AFM stuff it’s not a must if all the lines are good. If you have a Gen 4 motor with DOD though and your replacing your dod lifters and deleting it you have to replace the cam.
Mine started ticking after it warmed up and it turned out to be a worn rocker arm. The needle bearings wear that takes up most of the lifter preload. Then after the head and block warm up that takes up the remaining lash. There's only about .050 of preload so not much.
The ticking stayed consistent after it got up to temp?
@JoeDirtRacing123
Here's an audio clip of my 2012 Yukon 6.2 right before I changed out the rockers. I ended up changing all under that cover but #8 exhaust was the one in question.
It's the roller lifter making the tap, but it's caused by a worn rocker. The cam is just the point of initial contact.
FWIW, the valvetrain was near spotless, has had a very good service life. I've seen many other AFM lifter failures and they looked heavily varnished. Not saying that's the cause, but just a FYI.
th-cam.com/video/a2ck5FZWZ4U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=G79gskd9_B4KWeWx
@JoeDirtRacing123
The factory rockers aren't really that tight, I was surprised...not like a nice Comp Camp roller trunion, OE is a little loose from the box....very odd but that's how they are.
Have an 05 and 07 classic, same noise on both, replaced pickup tube O-ring, noise went away and hasn’t came back in over a year
Yep sometimes low oil pressure can cause some issues for sure!
Mine has the noice some times it comes some times it goes away oil oressure it at 46 cold and around 35 worm don iddle if i give it gas it will pass 40
That’s good OP
This may be a dumb question I come from the oldschool of Chevy where after cam install you brought number 1 up to Tdc set your distributor and adjust valves to zero lash and so on theirs no need for any of this on these ls motors at all
There is a procedure you can go by going off TDC , but I’ve always just torqued all the rockers to 22ft/lbs then rotate the engine some and re check torque. Never had a issue doing it this way. These rockers are self aligning. Set zero lash when checking pushrod length if you’ve changed something that they need to be checked length wise for.
What are the torque specs for the head bolts
22ft lbs first pass, 90 degrees second pass then another 90 degrees except on the two shorter head bolts on the ends only 50 degrees on them. All the little 10mm bolts are 22ft lbs.
Im in upstate sc with the same problem on a 05 Tahoe what would you charge to do this job
To replace the lifters on a non DOD motor usually runs 1k-1500 depending how deep we go with replacing stuff.
What does something like this cost? I believe I’m having a similar issue but mines more of a chirp or squeak. Just looking for a ballpark figure.
For something like this $800-1000 depends on parts and if you replaced anything extra. That’s just pulling the heads and doing lifters. Leaving the factory camshaft.
@@Joe_Dirt_Racingis that part cost, Just for lifters and gaskets? Or labor cost too
parts and labor
Did you reuse the headbolts or install new ones?
Installed new ones on this customers truck but I’ve re used them plenty of times before with no issues.
Mine literally has 100 miles in between mileage and it has been doing the same symptom this truck is doing but it started squeaking
The squeaking is not good , I wouldn’t run it anymore and tear it down asap before anymore damage.
i parked it immediately after hearing it and tore it down @@Joe_Dirt_Racing
What all did you have messed up buddy?
Im curious on whay you found. I have a 2001 tahoe with a 5.3 and it makes a sqeaking sound for like 15 seconds if i havent started it for about a day. Its not belt squeak either, i just replaced the idler, tentioner and belt.@cadenfaulkner4671
The squeeking is from pitting on the rollers. Usually it’s just 1 of the 16. Only at idle.
I thought gen 3 first pass 22 then 90 degrees 3rd 90 degrees 1thru8 ....9&10 50 degrees ?
That’s right , did I say differently in the video?
preciate it
No problem thanks for watching
The GM tick!!
Good motors other than that though!
Probably time to switch to 10w-40 or 60.
That motors dream is to be a diesel 😅
Hell I would have poured a quart of transmission fluid in it and ran it for a while.
Might have to try that one time, heard you can do that to clean a engine inside like say one that hasn’t had oil changed regularly. Have you had success with it fixing a noisy lifter?
@@Joe_Dirt_Racing
Yes it works
@@Mark-zz9rtcan you do it if you run full syntetic oil
First pass is 90 I’m seeing second as 90
8 ft pounds for lifter guides
What is the torque spec on the bolts that holds that plate in the midle?
18 foot pounds.