Ok, I did this a couple of weeks ago with the shims. I used 2mm shims with MX4 on both sides of the shims and taped off the adjacent areas. I went from throttling at 110C to now maxing out at around 72C under load. Insane results. And this was after trying the upgraded pad replacement, which didn't work more that dropping temps about 10C. Thank you so much!
I Did this Copper Mod on my RTX 3090 Zotac Holo. I Used the Same Copper Plate like in the Video, with ~1,7mm Fits Perfectly, MX4 applyed all over the GPU. Before Mod: I got 110° V-Ram after 2 Minutes. With CopperMod: It reaches 110° after 3 Minutes. Fans All time 100% WTF
@@liebezentrisch5620 I don't want to presume anything, so, how is your case airflow? How are you cooling that beast? That may be more telling than just the mod. I mean I have an AIO with 2 fans and 4 case fans plus the 3 on the Ventus. The time delay to me signifies a heat build up, which speaks to airflow, from my experience.
I don't know if it's a fluke, but I had the same temps as you, but then i enabled resizable bar in my BIOs and my temps have dropped. Have you tried that?
That's a very messy application of thermal compound, presumably from factory. I'd keep working at it with that toothbrush until it's gone from between all of the passives on the chip. I'd also clean up those unpopulated memory pads, and frankly, I'd prefer to get those memory chips cleaner. I don't like the copper shim covering the unpopulated memory pads, I would apply kapton tape over those two unpopulated memory positions, so it wouldn't short them out in the future.
This is a worrying trend where the pros and cons are not comprehensively discussed. One of which is the actual pressure exerted by the copper plate on the VRAMs as the gap is only 0.1 mm (1.6mm gpu die to vram level less 1.5mm plate thickness). This is the gap for thermal grease application. Any thermal expansion of copper (which is about 0.02mm) would bear much pressure on VRAMS and being incompressible, might break/chip it or even slowly degrade the VRAM solder points (fatigue stress - daily turning off/on the PC which causes drastic changes in VRAM temps that causes expansion and contraction of copper metal). All GPU transistor solders are not done exactly the same. If you did it right on the installation but with just one protruding transistor solder anomaly (higher than VRAM levels) and do not know what short circuit means, your GPU will be dead even before powering up your computer. Thermal pads on the other hand equalizes too much pressure on VRAMS as they compress depending on the amount of pressure bore down by the cooling plate. Copper plates such as this one is still risky and your card might not last long even if done "right" - whatever that means.
@@goingrey9529 You make me laugh. As long as you know gap width, purchasing the right thermal pads thickness, paste and copper shims would do the trick. I have used this for my 3080 ti for two years now and still get temps at max 75C temp on full load.
Important note: Everyone is talking about copper modding their vrms but it seems not one mentions the very obvious. The heat pipes to the main cooler!! This also has a thermal pad which connects the memory vrms to the main cooler. If you miss this, or cheap skate on changing this thermal pad, you will find your temps remain high, if not increase with the newly laid copper. Also when you have changed the thermal pads and have screwed everything together, do a sight test. Peer in from the side and check to see if there is 'day light' between the thermal pads and the heat pipes. If you can a gap then you have used the 'wrong size thermal pads', and should add another layer. This is key! In fact this is 'more important than copper modding your Vrms'.
or when someone does the copper plate mod wrong and northwestrepair drops a video "NEVER DO A COPPER MOD!" 🤣 , its not for everyone to mod their gpu vrm's with copper thats for sure 🙂
I did the small square ones on my ftw3 ultra and first tried with 1.8mm ones, core was going nuts in game so with help of those grinding machines (don't know the name in english) I reduced the thickness to 1.5mm and smoothed them with 400 grit sand paper. now core stays cool around 73-75c while gaming and memories are at 85c while mining. Gonna do this on all of my cards and save the thermal pads in case I need to send the card for warranty.
FYI for anyone having trouble with alcohol (and a tip in general). The higher the concentration of alcohol (for example 99% vs 70%) the less water it will have which means two things: 1) Stronger, yet still safe cleaning power and 2) less chance of leftover water and/or condensation should you choose to blow air on it to help dry it faster.
200% better and comfy than the old mega thin screwdriver(pain for hand) used on the 3070ti. also got more of my attention than the 3070ti version, would like to see more GPU things like this. 👍
Man, I must have been one of the luckiest people when in it comes to GPUs then. My 3090Ti hovers around 63-67c while playing games at 4k and ultra-settings, Ray tracing at its highest and it still rarely hits into the 70c's, and if it does, it doesn't stay there long at all and it is usually at around 33c while idle. Not to mention I personally over clock it and pushed it to a 330% rating at user benchmark, with the gaming percentage at 386%, workstation at 120% and the workstation at 430%. I don't have any heating issues at all. My CPU gets a little hotter than my GPU, always. I was one of the lucky ones who caught that extremely brief sell of the RTX GigaByte 3090TIs for $999 a few months back. They weren't lying about how cool the cards stay.
When you copper mod, more heat from memory is tranfered to heatsink. As a result, lesser heat is able to be transfered from core to heatsink. The end result of improving memory temps is a small impact on core temps.
Your no improvement to temperatures on your GPU core after this modification is likely because your VRAM is now much more efficiently at wicking its heat away into the GPU's heatsinks. In other words, you have no longer have a single source of heat, there are ten VRAM, albeit small, are now much more thermally conductive than before 12:04
Additionally, I reckon after overclocking your 3080's VRAM, It shouldn't be surprising to witness a higher than average GPU core temperature! As your VRAM's heat output is overwhelming MSI's GPU cooler, it's original intention is probably to dissipate heat from the GPU core only
how about if you stick thin thermal pads on the bottom of that cooper plate, put that plate on vram, add thermal paste on the top and put all together ?
@@pozytywniezakrecony151tak mordeczko. Nie bylo trudno, a temp mi droply do okolo 70 stopni na vram. Zamowilem ten kawalek metalu na vram z usa z tej strony co ma ten Typ w opiesie, ale widze, ze juz stronka nie dziala. Do tego zamowilem pady z gelida. 2mm,1.5mm i 1mm. Nie pamietam ile Ci tego bedzie potrzebne. Pamietam, ze znalazlem schemat do mojej karty w necie, z wymiarami. Pozdro
@@leny_plus18 oo dzięki, na AliExpress jest chyba to samo, więc (dopiero kartę zamówiłem) sprawdzę czy temp są ok i jak nie to zamówię te blaszki i pady i mx-4 i zrobię to samo
@@pozytywniezakrecony151 a nie sorry .. jeszcze raz musialem to przeczytac. Padów na kostki vram nie dawalem. Smarowalem pasta z gory i dolu. Nic im sie nie stanie
You should have spread the thermal paste all over the top of the copper plate too so that the entire unit will contact the heatsink properly. In places where there is no paste the contact won’t be good and this conductivity is low.
It spreads to where the contact is and kicks the excess off to the sides. The contact of the heatsink to the copper is what pushed the excess, therefor there is no issues with contact. Just watch the video again, I completely understood what he did.
I have 2 troubled cards. 3080FE loves to run at 102... I assume that will be way higher in the summer. Giga 3090 loves 100c. Both are running fine and very stable so no rush to do anything on my side. But I've pulled the trigger on the copper plates that I saw a few months back. Now that more folks are trying them out I feel a bit better about it. Not looking forward to taking those cards apart however... Subscribed
A quick question. the temps your measuring on the memory hot spot I assume to be with HWiNFO64 ? I have a full water block on my 3080 and its only with games running Unity Engine that make the memory screaming hot. Unreal Engine Cryengine etc all settle in around 60-65c 2 games on Unity push the hot spot to around 82-96c and one game is simply horrendous and camps at 105c. Right now I am afraid to run some Games made with the Unity Engine as it is certainly going to shorten the lifespan of an expensive card.
What gigabyte card do you have? I got the Xtreme and although people have complained alot about the thermal pads being really bad (1.5 WmK) I haven't seen my memory go up above 100c
@@johnno2377 For Unity games what I do is add this to boot.ini: gfx-enable-gfx-jobs=1 gfx-enable-native-gfx-jobs=1 Now add this to Steam launch options: -console -window-mode exclusive -screen-fullscreen You may have to alt tab & tab once to get fullscreen to work. Obviously - use a frame limiter of some kind in control panel or otherwise and use Vulkan if it's available. Best if you use all fixes together for a good result. Not 100% guaranteed, but I bet you will see some temperature reduction. For me it is usually around 5-10C on GPU core.
@@The_Man_In_Red Thank you for the info. I shall give it a try and see if it helps. If it does I shall post the results as I can not be the only PC gamer having issues with Unity heating the memory on games.
@@johnno2377 Oddly enough Vulkan seems to make a huge difference, I get around the same core temps but fan speeds go down by a good 10-15% it's pretty noticeable that it isn't slamming the GPU so hard using that API. I just chock it up to *something* developers are doing with shaders & lighting in Unity. Because I've played Unity games where it barely hits the GPU and I'm basically idling at 35-40C @ 40-50% utilization and others where it ramps up to 70-75% fan speed and can barely stay below 65C. My card is undervolted btw, if you're wondering why my temps seems pretty good. Easy man solution is to lower Power Limit to 70-80% in MSI Afterburner and save it to a profile for Unity games but you might lose 1-3% perf :P If not... techie-show(dot)com has a great lengthy article called "How to undervolt your GPU - lower temps & higher performance" if you feel like jumping in the deep end.
I think you have a bright future; the setup is excellent, just the shade in the back, but i know you are starting and will succeed in this business. Thank you for your time.
Watched your 3070Ti video, after my buddy just got a 3070Ti, and today just picked up a MSI Ventus 3080, when I saw it for $770 on Newegg. Really glad you made a video for the 3080, and the particular card I just got as well, so a badass walk through video for sure. Time to get me a copper plate and break out the K5!
A pair of small ("needle-nose" style) channel locks goes a very long way toward pulling out stuck connectors like your fan connectors. Use the screw to set the lock width, snap it gently onto the connector, and then carefully wiggle it out of the socket. Done it a hundred times if I've done it once; works a treat!
@@dandyworks Hehe, you're welcome! Nice video by the way! I discovered you from the buzz your previous copper shim video got; looking forward to your future content!
@@dandyworks This is the list of thermal compounds you could try for next videos : Dow Corning 340 heat sink compound Heat sink compound RS 554-311 20ml WLPK 10 RS PRO Aluminium Oxide Thermal Paste LEITPASTE WP235 LEITPASTE 50ML Metal oxide thermal compound 122 Series Thermal Joint Compound CHEMTRONICS CT40-5 WAKEFIELD THERMAL 120-5 GC ELECTRONICS 10-8109
Another great video dude! Very cool this machined option of the copper interface.. After the warranty is gone, I will surely do this to mine. Right now, I only have gpus with a metal backplate, and I use, (per gpu), two 100x100x20mm aluminum heatsinks with thermal pads + 2 100mm fans blowing air into them; it works great on lowering the temps substantially but it's not a solution to have inside a PC case, only for a mining rig.
I've been doing like this for years. Together with thermal paste it is much more effective than pads. I use fins from old copper coolers that I cut to size.
So, i'm on CoolMyGPU in the 3090 section but its not clear at all which plates work with the FE. Are there not any? This site should really make this more clear.
Never said anything different than that... Just said that get similar results using only aluminum... Never forget that even the best thermal paste, are around 15 w/mk, copper is around 400, and aluminum is around 200...
I have an RTX 3060. It was pulled from an HP Omen and some guy was selling them. While idle it doesn't run hot but while running some games it can get to the 70s (Celsius). I know that is not too hot but I would like to make it last longer than the manufacturer (whoever that really was) intended. There is a really thick thermal paste that can replace pads but the copper plates seems like an even better idea. I would consider that thick paste to help hold the plates in place. There are also Arctic Silver thermal epoxies but I don't like things that are so permanent, that stuff would destroy your boards when you try to remove the heatsinks. I don't plan to do anything anytime soon but the copper plates seem like they work really well.
U dont need copper plate for 3060 because it is gddr6. All you have to do is change the thermal paste and make your custom frequency/voltage curve in MSI afterburner. Out of the box cards tend to use more aggresive voltage than it need to be
@@lowzyyy I am just one of those people who likes things that are impossible to kill. To me there is no such thing as overbuilt. that is just something you would hear from someone who is used to things failing sooner than they should.
The pins around the GPU are not impossible to clean, just use more IPA to melt the paste. I use a little brush soaked in IPA and it is quite fast to remove it.
New sub here...Thanks for the video! Just ordered plates for my 3080 & 3090 from these guys after watching your video. I think they will be a much better solution than the copper shims.
You really can't say the memory temperature dropped by 20 percent! To get the actual percentage, you need to convert to Kelvin, so add the 273 degree offset. That makes it a 5% drop. It's also entirely useless as an indicator. Just keep it to 20 degrees drop. That does make sense
actually for cooling performance you want to measure the delta over ambient temperature, not absolute zero. that's relative and perfectly fine to quantify as a percentage. a 20 degree drop in ∆T is nearly a 30 percent improvement.
@@joshieecstrue, but it's still more useful to just mention the absolute drop of 20+ degrees. That gives you way more information than a percentage if you have no idea what the ambient is
i think your original mod with the small copper shims worked better i did the exact same on my 3080 but with pure silver shims and kryonaut extreme and it dropped my mem temps from 89c down to 52c-55c which was way more than i expected. if you ever have a chance to try that would be a good video. if you are brave enough use conductonaut liquid metal instead. youll probably drop temps even lower.
6:28 I noticed the “bottom” thermal pad only had 1 depression, and the board (top of screen) had what looked like soldering points… would that be for any possible GDDR6 upgrade for DIY? (I’m ignorant as I don’t want to spend $3k to compare a 16 Gig to a 24 Gig to a 20 Gig cards 😂)
I had the same problem with my Ventus and got the temps to drop by replacing the pads and balling up some of the excess pad material and shoving it into the gaps between the heat pad and the heat pipe, giving that metal plate some actual contact with the rest of the cooler.
This is great, I just ordered a plate for my 3070ti. In long gaming sessions I was seeing temps creep up to 100C+, I don't mine but I love these kinds of mods. Ordered some kapton tape from your link too!
But the 3070ti can handle memory temps up to 110c and given it’s at 100% load I have never seen one hit that barrier. This does not improve performance. So unless your running it at 120 degrees f ambient I don’t see the the point ?
@@bryjb10 yeah and the stock Intel and AMD cooler work just fine too but look at the market. 🙄 Besides that, these cards run with a set power target. Hotter temps requires more power to hit the same clock speed, eating up valuable power target. The cooler it runs the higher it boosts even without manual overclock. This is just basics since the days of Fermi.
The end of its life may come sooner due to the bent backplate and board which cause mechanical stress on the solder joints. I received a refurbished GTX 980 with bent board and backplate. It failed within two days resulting in horizontal artefact lines. I ran OCCT, Heaven and FurMark for a couple of hours then powered off the computer. Next time it had artefacts. I left it working for an hour and they disappeared. So now I'm afraid to turn it off again until a replacement arrives.
I know this is really nitpicky, but you cannot use percentages with Celsius (or Fahrenheit for that matter) because their zero point isn't absolute. You could use it with the Kelvin temperature scale if you really wanted to. Your best option is to just say the delta Temp.
This will perform better than a thermal pad replacement. Of course, a pad swap is simple, easy, low-risk, and generally much more accepted. A copper mod shouldn’t really be the go-to method anyway, it will be overkill for most people.
Thanks for the great video Dandy! I'm curious if adding thermal paste all the way around on top of the copper would lower temps even more? This way, it would have a complete connection to the heatsink at every point of the copper. Maybe this would give you even better heat transfer to the heatsink.
Using a tooth brush if you know what you are doing is fine. I generally use a a pick cotton swap. A lot of time I use plastic model kits cotton swaps, they generally last longer and a soft brush. The blue shop towel are also better then using regular paper towels.
Great video! I checked their website to grab one for myself, but as it turns out they don't make ones compatible with the 3070ti FE. Life never is just that simple, is it?
I love how people just gave away their 400+ usd for free in to someone's pocket on top of the gpu price to get gpu instead of waiting 6-8 months to get it now at 400-500usd lower pricing.
Weird question, has anyone ever done a gold mod? Im not sure it would be worth the extra money or not, but some car companies use gold to dissipate the heat in the engine bay. Loved the video thanks for the info.
PCB bend aside, you are now more effectively dumping heat from the VRAM in the same small area the GPU is. The fact that both GPU and VRAM temperatures seem to equalize is to be expected. Then again, the slightest height difference between the copper shim and GPU core may also explain the behavior. You can only tell that by disassembling the GPU and checking the contact pattern in the thermal paste.
Why haven't 3k series owners started hassling NVidia/AIBs about making the memory actually capable of decent temperatures? My 6900 XT Referemce has zero heat issues with memory or core at minimal fan speeds (~40%) producing very little fan noise.
Overheat edition. Lol! Thanks for the video. I had no idea these plates exist but it makes me happy that they do. “But muh temps are safe”… yeah, until time, temp, and voltage does its thing and degrades the ram and you start getting crashes. Lower temps= reliability over time. And can one really rely on being able to buy the gpu one wants when their old gpu takes a dump or starts degrading?
The electrochemical series suggests possible corrosion when aluminum and copper are in contact. However, that’s only true when there is an electrolyte present between them. So no, as long as you aren’t dipping your GPU in saltwater you should be fine. Other external factors such as humidity are very unlikely to have an effect either.
The silly thing is that many cards already have protrusions on the heat sink to close some of the gap towards the VRAM. It seems the only reason to not go all the way, is that the board makers are not confident in their tolerances allowing all components to contact simultaneously without anything getting crushed. Thermal pads allows the board to be bent without getting destroyed, and I guess NVIDIAs engineers though pads were enough to keep temps in spec.
Definitely dofing this next time I open my card up to replace the pads. Even though the plate is around $50+, I'm spending just as much on quality pads.
Exactly my logic as well. I just bought the copper shims they have for both the front and back of the VRAM. Looking forward to hopefully big improvements.
@@dylanr5384 my 3080 fe decided it wanted to start running hot now. 105-110c vram temps. Looks like I'll be ordering some copper shims lol. Besides it would be so much easier to install these than pads. Pads are pretty much a guessing game on the required thickness the gpu needs. Even though people on the internet says "this card uses this thickness", not all pads can compress well. I've used thermalright pads and they had to be spot on with the card or else it's either too thick or too thin due to not being very compressible but has very good conductivity.
@@donnellysaprano5489 I got these installed on my FE. Temps went from 110C to around 82C top. On stock pads when they were still working, it was around 96C. A big win for me. The thing is, the FE has probably the worst cooler out of all the other AIB so this is surprising.
When your extracting so much heat or reduce the temps on mem, it will sync into thr cooler raising core temps depending on workload. Depending on if your a gamer or running compute workloads, copper mod may not be for everyone. If you don't have a Thicc Boy heatsink, copper modding won't be as impactful. Just depends, you and I present the data and it is up to the end user to make the best decision for them. Take care
"they cant overclock for shi-" "the grill" "overheat edition" LMAO i absolutely love the narrating on this video, funny and very informational
Ok, I did this a couple of weeks ago with the shims. I used 2mm shims with MX4 on both sides of the shims and taped off the adjacent areas. I went from throttling at 110C to now maxing out at around 72C under load. Insane results. And this was after trying the upgraded pad replacement, which didn't work more that dropping temps about 10C. Thank you so much!
I Did this Copper Mod on my RTX 3090 Zotac Holo.
I Used the Same Copper Plate like in the Video, with ~1,7mm
Fits Perfectly, MX4 applyed all over the GPU.
Before Mod: I got 110° V-Ram after 2 Minutes.
With CopperMod: It reaches 110° after 3 Minutes.
Fans All time 100%
WTF
@@liebezentrisch5620 I don't want to presume anything, so, how is your case airflow? How are you cooling that beast? That may be more telling than just the mod. I mean I have an AIO with 2 fans and 4 case fans plus the 3 on the Ventus. The time delay to me signifies a heat build up, which speaks to airflow, from my experience.
I don't know if it's a fluke, but I had the same temps as you, but then i enabled resizable bar in my BIOs and my temps have dropped. Have you tried that?
@liebezentrisch5620 does it still make contact with the gpu chip? Seems like it would be a few mms to high.
I've only seen a couple of your videos so far but I love your channel already. Keep it up!
It's sad that a pair of GPU's that (together) cost as much as a 5-year-old car should be so poorly designed.
I am happy to see this guy is bringing solid content 😁
Keep the momentum going dude.
This was humorous, informative, and well-paced throughout. You'll go far with this kind of content, I think.
That's a very messy application of thermal compound, presumably from factory. I'd keep working at it with that toothbrush until it's gone from between all of the passives on the chip. I'd also clean up those unpopulated memory pads, and frankly, I'd prefer to get those memory chips cleaner. I don't like the copper shim covering the unpopulated memory pads, I would apply kapton tape over those two unpopulated memory positions, so it wouldn't short them out in the future.
There's something about your narrating and editing skills that make your videos very enjoyable...
This is a worrying trend where the pros and cons are not comprehensively discussed. One of which is the actual pressure exerted by the copper plate on the VRAMs as the gap is only 0.1 mm (1.6mm gpu die to vram level less 1.5mm plate thickness). This is the gap for thermal grease application. Any thermal expansion of copper (which is about 0.02mm) would bear much pressure on VRAMS and being incompressible, might break/chip it or even slowly degrade the VRAM solder points (fatigue stress - daily turning off/on the PC which causes drastic changes in VRAM temps that causes expansion and contraction of copper metal). All GPU transistor solders are not done exactly the same. If you did it right on the installation but with just one protruding transistor solder anomaly (higher than VRAM levels) and do not know what short circuit means, your GPU will be dead even before powering up your computer. Thermal pads on the other hand equalizes too much pressure on VRAMS as they compress depending on the amount of pressure bore down by the cooling plate. Copper plates such as this one is still risky and your card might not last long even if done "right" - whatever that means.
so what you are saying is that we should sand the plate with ultra fine grit sandpaper and make up for the 0.02 mm deficit using thermal paste right?
On a 1.5mm gap i would use a 1.0mm copper shim and fill the gaps equally on both sides with a bit of U6 Pro thermal putty instead of thermal paste.
The copper comes in different sizes, problem solved
@@goingrey9529 You make me laugh. As long as you know gap width, purchasing the right thermal pads thickness, paste and copper shims would do the trick. I have used this for my 3080 ti for two years now and still get temps at max 75C temp on full load.
@@goingrey952930 years?
Important note: Everyone is talking about copper modding their vrms but it seems not one mentions the very obvious. The heat pipes to the main cooler!!
This also has a thermal pad which connects the memory vrms to the main cooler. If you miss this, or cheap skate on changing this thermal pad, you will find your temps remain high, if not increase with the newly laid copper.
Also when you have changed the thermal pads and have screwed everything together, do a sight test. Peer in from the side and check to see if there is 'day light' between the thermal pads and the heat pipes. If you can a gap then you have used the 'wrong size thermal pads', and should add another layer. This is key! In fact this is 'more important than copper modding your Vrms'.
or when someone does the copper plate mod wrong and northwestrepair drops a video "NEVER DO A COPPER MOD!" 🤣 , its not for everyone to mod their gpu vrm's with copper thats for sure 🙂
Just got recommended your channel today and I'm impressed. You've gained a subscriber :)
I did the small square ones on my ftw3 ultra and first tried with 1.8mm ones, core was going nuts in game so with help of those grinding machines (don't know the name in english) I reduced the thickness to 1.5mm and smoothed them with 400 grit sand paper. now core stays cool around 73-75c while gaming and memories are at 85c while mining. Gonna do this on all of my cards and save the thermal pads in case I need to send the card for warranty.
makes sense. these full shim plates are 1.57mm.
FYI for anyone having trouble with alcohol (and a tip in general). The higher the concentration of alcohol (for example 99% vs 70%) the less water it will have which means two things: 1) Stronger, yet still safe cleaning power and 2) less chance of leftover water and/or condensation should you choose to blow air on it to help dry it faster.
Amen!
I love your sense of humor! keep up the good work
200% better and comfy than the old mega thin screwdriver(pain for hand) used on the 3070ti.
also got more of my attention than the 3070ti version, would like to see more GPU things like this. 👍
Never change your review style !
Man, I must have been one of the luckiest people when in it comes to GPUs then. My 3090Ti hovers around 63-67c while playing games at 4k and ultra-settings, Ray tracing at its highest and it still rarely hits into the 70c's, and if it does, it doesn't stay there long at all and it is usually at around 33c while idle. Not to mention I personally over clock it and pushed it to a 330% rating at user benchmark, with the gaming percentage at 386%, workstation at 120% and the workstation at 430%. I don't have any heating issues at all. My CPU gets a little hotter than my GPU, always. I was one of the lucky ones who caught that extremely brief sell of the RTX GigaByte 3090TIs for $999 a few months back. They weren't lying about how cool the cards stay.
When you copper mod, more heat from memory is tranfered to heatsink. As a result, lesser heat is able to be transfered from core to heatsink.
The end result of improving memory temps is a small impact on core temps.
Your no improvement to temperatures on your GPU core after this modification is likely because your VRAM is now much more efficiently at wicking its heat away into the GPU's heatsinks. In other words, you have no longer have a single source of heat, there are ten VRAM, albeit small, are now much more thermally conductive than before
12:04
Additionally, I reckon after overclocking your 3080's VRAM, It shouldn't be surprising to witness a higher than average GPU core temperature! As your VRAM's heat output is overwhelming MSI's GPU cooler, it's original intention is probably to dissipate heat from the GPU core only
@@bakedpotato8602 he is a crypto miner, ethash is vram intensive, so having lower temp vram is going to help with vram overclocking.
It's awesome seeing well-thought-out video on gpus🔥
how about if you stick thin thermal pads on the bottom of that cooper plate, put that plate on vram, add thermal paste on the top and put all together ?
0,5mm thermal grizzly minus extreme let’s say
2 years later - have you done this? 1mm thermal plate + 0.5mm pad I was thinking
@@pozytywniezakrecony151tak mordeczko. Nie bylo trudno, a temp mi droply do okolo 70 stopni na vram. Zamowilem ten kawalek metalu na vram z usa z tej strony co ma ten Typ w opiesie, ale widze, ze juz stronka nie dziala. Do tego zamowilem pady z gelida. 2mm,1.5mm i 1mm. Nie pamietam ile Ci tego bedzie potrzebne. Pamietam, ze znalazlem schemat do mojej karty w necie, z wymiarami. Pozdro
@@leny_plus18 oo dzięki, na AliExpress jest chyba to samo, więc (dopiero kartę zamówiłem) sprawdzę czy temp są ok i jak nie to zamówię te blaszki i pady i mx-4 i zrobię to samo
@@pozytywniezakrecony151 a nie sorry .. jeszcze raz musialem to przeczytac. Padów na kostki vram nie dawalem. Smarowalem pasta z gory i dolu. Nic im sie nie stanie
You should have spread the thermal paste all over the top of the copper plate too so that the entire unit will contact the heatsink properly. In places where there is no paste the contact won’t be good and this conductivity is low.
It spreads to where the contact is and kicks the excess off to the sides. The contact of the heatsink to the copper is what pushed the excess, therefor there is no issues with contact. Just watch the video again, I completely understood what he did.
I have 2 troubled cards. 3080FE loves to run at 102... I assume that will be way higher in the summer. Giga 3090 loves 100c. Both are running fine and very stable so no rush to do anything on my side. But I've pulled the trigger on the copper plates that I saw a few months back. Now that more folks are trying them out I feel a bit better about it. Not looking forward to taking those cards apart however... Subscribed
A quick question. the temps your measuring on the memory hot spot I assume to be with HWiNFO64 ?
I have a full water block on my 3080 and its only with games running Unity Engine that make the memory screaming hot. Unreal Engine Cryengine etc all settle in around 60-65c
2 games on Unity push the hot spot to around 82-96c and one game is simply horrendous and camps at 105c. Right now I am afraid to run some Games made with the Unity Engine as it is certainly going to shorten the lifespan of an expensive card.
What gigabyte card do you have? I got the Xtreme and although people have complained alot about the thermal pads being really bad (1.5 WmK) I haven't seen my memory go up above 100c
@@johnno2377
For Unity games what I do is add this to boot.ini:
gfx-enable-gfx-jobs=1
gfx-enable-native-gfx-jobs=1
Now add this to Steam launch options:
-console -window-mode exclusive -screen-fullscreen
You may have to alt tab & tab once to get fullscreen to work. Obviously - use a frame limiter of some kind in control panel or otherwise and use Vulkan if it's available. Best if you use all fixes together for a good result.
Not 100% guaranteed, but I bet you will see some temperature reduction. For me it is usually around 5-10C on GPU core.
@@The_Man_In_Red Thank you for the info. I shall give it a try and see if it helps. If it does I shall post the results as I can not be the only PC gamer having issues with Unity heating the memory on games.
@@johnno2377
Oddly enough Vulkan seems to make a huge difference, I get around the same core temps but fan speeds go down by a good 10-15% it's pretty noticeable that it isn't slamming the GPU so hard using that API.
I just chock it up to *something* developers are doing with shaders & lighting in Unity. Because I've played Unity games where it barely hits the GPU and I'm basically idling at 35-40C @ 40-50% utilization and others where it ramps up to 70-75% fan speed and can barely stay below 65C.
My card is undervolted btw, if you're wondering why my temps seems pretty good.
Easy man solution is to lower Power Limit to 70-80% in MSI Afterburner and save it to a profile for Unity games but you might lose 1-3% perf :P
If not... techie-show(dot)com has a great lengthy article called "How to undervolt your GPU - lower temps & higher performance" if you feel like jumping in the deep end.
I like to use (red) nail polish instead of the Kapton tape. Cheap, easy to get and easy to apply.
I think you have a bright future; the setup is excellent, just the shade in the back, but i know you are starting and will succeed in this business. Thank you for your time.
Glad your channel was on my recommended.
Why not put copper on the core as well to see the result ?
Watched your 3070Ti video, after my buddy just got a 3070Ti, and today just picked up a MSI Ventus 3080, when I saw it for $770 on Newegg. Really glad you made a video for the 3080, and the particular card I just got as well, so a badass walk through video for sure. Time to get me a copper plate and break out the K5!
Thank you for the video! I have been wondering about these.
Cool man. I followed your videos for this copper plate mod, especially for the kapton tape. Cheers!
A pair of small ("needle-nose" style) channel locks goes a very long way toward pulling out stuck connectors like your fan connectors. Use the screw to set the lock width, snap it gently onto the connector, and then carefully wiggle it out of the socket. Done it a hundred times if I've done it once; works a treat!
Thank you for this tip. I hope it can save me in the future from suffering through removing these annoying JST connectors.
@@dandyworks Hehe, you're welcome! Nice video by the way! I discovered you from the buzz your previous copper shim video got; looking forward to your future content!
@@dandyworks
This is the list of thermal compounds you could try for next videos :
Dow Corning 340 heat sink compound
Heat sink compound RS 554-311 20ml
WLPK 10
RS PRO Aluminium Oxide Thermal Paste
LEITPASTE WP235
LEITPASTE 50ML Metal oxide thermal compound
122 Series Thermal Joint Compound
CHEMTRONICS CT40-5
WAKEFIELD THERMAL 120-5
GC ELECTRONICS 10-8109
The amount of thermal paste that came off the heatsink alone is the amount I use, KEKW.
Another great video dude! Very cool this machined option of the copper interface.. After the warranty is gone, I will surely do this to mine. Right now, I only have gpus with a metal backplate, and I use, (per gpu), two 100x100x20mm aluminum heatsinks with thermal pads + 2 100mm fans blowing air into them; it works great on lowering the temps substantially but it's not a solution to have inside a PC case, only for a mining rig.
I've been doing like this for years. Together with thermal paste it is much more effective than pads. I use fins from old copper coolers that I cut to size.
EPIC Fam
Great Work!
2:32 Overheat Edition :D This came so unexpected I spat coffee over my whole desk. dayum
Great video, no bs or rambling. Good job. Subscribed!
I miss the old zalman copper coolers.
This is so rad! dude, love the vids. Keep it up and I def want to try this with my 3080 gaming x trio now.
I had no idea this existed until today, thanks man !
love ur channel
“hospital wine” 🤣 I have to steal this.
Thank you so much to these videos. Ordering my plate now.
Спасибо тебе за видео, интересно было смотреть видео и понимать, что есть всё таки возможность опустить температуру горячих типов памяти.
So, i'm on CoolMyGPU in the 3090 section but its not clear at all which plates work with the FE. Are there not any? This site should really make this more clear.
@DandyWorks
I hope you have some cool idea's for cooling the backside of the memories.
awesome video, thanks for the mod idea.
God guy, You have make a very informative and excellent video. That I can tolerate.
Hi! I did a similar copper mod... but with aluminum, with very similar results...
I like the idea on that copper plate... Thanks for the review!
copper is more thermaly conductive tho
Never said anything different than that... Just said that get similar results using only aluminum...
Never forget that even the best thermal paste, are around 15 w/mk, copper is around 400, and aluminum is around 200...
I have an RTX 3060. It was pulled from an HP Omen and some guy was selling them. While idle it doesn't run hot but while running some games it can get to the 70s (Celsius). I know that is not too hot but I would like to make it last longer than the manufacturer (whoever that really was) intended. There is a really thick thermal paste that can replace pads but the copper plates seems like an even better idea. I would consider that thick paste to help hold the plates in place. There are also Arctic Silver thermal epoxies but I don't like things that are so permanent, that stuff would destroy your boards when you try to remove the heatsinks. I don't plan to do anything anytime soon but the copper plates seem like they work really well.
U dont need copper plate for 3060 because it is gddr6.
All you have to do is change the thermal paste and make your custom frequency/voltage curve in MSI afterburner. Out of the box cards tend to use more aggresive voltage than it need to be
@@lowzyyy I am just one of those people who likes things that are impossible to kill. To me there is no such thing as overbuilt. that is just something you would hear from someone who is used to things failing sooner than they should.
The pins around the GPU are not impossible to clean, just use more IPA to melt the paste. I use a little brush soaked in IPA and it is quite fast to remove it.
New sub here...Thanks for the video! Just ordered plates for my 3080 & 3090 from these guys after watching your video. I think they will be a much better solution than the copper shims.
You really can't say the memory temperature dropped by 20 percent! To get the actual percentage, you need to convert to Kelvin, so add the 273 degree offset. That makes it a 5% drop. It's also entirely useless as an indicator. Just keep it to 20 degrees drop. That does make sense
True。Does 2c to 1c a 50% decrease in temperature? Definitely not. Cecius is not a 0 based scale, the base is -273.15C which is kelvin 0.
actually for cooling performance you want to measure the delta over ambient temperature, not absolute zero. that's relative and perfectly fine to quantify as a percentage. a 20 degree drop in ∆T is nearly a 30 percent improvement.
@@joshieecstrue, but it's still more useful to just mention the absolute drop of 20+ degrees. That gives you way more information than a percentage if you have no idea what the ambient is
This was great bro thanks for the information.
They seem to only be selling aluminum versions of the shim now instead of copper ones on the linked site
That's Really Amazing!!
i think your original mod with the small copper shims worked better i did the exact same on my 3080 but with pure silver shims and kryonaut extreme and it dropped my mem temps from 89c down to 52c-55c which was way more than i expected. if you ever have a chance to try that would be a good video. if you are brave enough use conductonaut liquid metal instead. youll probably drop temps even lower.
what thickness shims?
kryonaut extreme contains beryllium powder oxide which is very toxic,pls avoid using that.
6:28 I noticed the “bottom” thermal pad only had 1 depression, and the board (top of screen) had what looked like soldering points… would that be for any possible GDDR6 upgrade for DIY? (I’m ignorant as I don’t want to spend $3k to compare a 16 Gig to a 24 Gig to a 20 Gig cards 😂)
Well done... greeting from cuba.
Dude you are great at this job. Well done. Greetings from Turkey 🙋♂️
Ahh yes the bricklayers technique for thermal paste. Nice to see someone other than me using it.
I had the same problem with my Ventus and got the temps to drop by replacing the pads and balling up some of the excess pad material and shoving it into the gaps between the heat pad and the heat pipe, giving that metal plate some actual contact with the rest of the cooler.
This is great, I just ordered a plate for my 3070ti. In long gaming sessions I was seeing temps creep up to 100C+, I don't mine but I love these kinds of mods. Ordered some kapton tape from your link too!
But the 3070ti can handle memory temps up to 110c and given it’s at 100% load I have never seen one hit that barrier. This does not improve performance. So unless your running it at 120 degrees f ambient I don’t see the the point ?
@@bryjb10 yeah and the stock Intel and AMD cooler work just fine too but look at the market. 🙄
Besides that, these cards run with a set power target. Hotter temps requires more power to hit the same clock speed, eating up valuable power target. The cooler it runs the higher it boosts even without manual overclock. This is just basics since the days of Fermi.
Was about to construct one for myself, this saved me a bounce off trouble!
10:20 i was so ready for you to say "if you didn't, you're screwed" but you screwed it up 😅
I thought about it, not sure why I didn't do that. Darn!
The end of its life may come sooner due to the bent backplate and board which cause mechanical stress on the solder joints. I received a refurbished GTX 980 with bent board and backplate. It failed within two days resulting in horizontal artefact lines. I ran OCCT, Heaven and FurMark for a couple of hours then powered off the computer. Next time it had artefacts. I left it working for an hour and they disappeared. So now I'm afraid to turn it off again until a replacement arrives.
I'm a fan. Cool content.
I like this channel. Finding new good ideas here.
Thank you so much! Very informative
I know this is really nitpicky, but you cannot use percentages with Celsius (or Fahrenheit for that matter) because their zero point isn't absolute. You could use it with the Kelvin temperature scale if you really wanted to. Your best option is to just say the delta Temp.
I will remember this in the future, thank you
How does it compare to thermal pad replacement ? This one might be worth it imo, but i saw thermal pads dropped the mem temp by 20 degrees celcius.
This will perform better than a thermal pad replacement. Of course, a pad swap is simple, easy, low-risk, and generally much more accepted. A copper mod shouldn’t really be the go-to method anyway, it will be overkill for most people.
Dandyworks how was the surface finish on the copper plate?
A smooth bare surface. No need to deburr or prep the plate. Comes ready to install!
@@dandyworks Good. Usually the surface isn't all that good and requires a buff and polish. So that is good to hear.
Because of you I picked up a CMGPU kit for the Zotac 3070 Ti; Dropped from 96C VRAM to 78C and that's including a new OC of +500 MHz to the VRAM!
Was this the Trinity OC or AMP Holo version of Zotac 3070 TI?
how were the statistics obtained: what 3rd party app. to read performance of the GPU ?
Underrated channel
Thanks for the great video Dandy! I'm curious if adding thermal paste all the way around on top of the copper would lower temps even more? This way, it would have a complete connection to the heatsink at every point of the copper. Maybe this would give you even better heat transfer to the heatsink.
I read Dandy as Daddy, I need help
Using a tooth brush if you know what you are doing is fine. I generally use a a pick cotton swap. A lot of time I use plastic model kits cotton swaps, they generally last longer and a soft brush. The blue shop towel are also better then using regular paper towels.
Hello fellow shop-toweler! 👍🏽
Great video! I checked their website to grab one for myself, but as it turns out they don't make ones compatible with the 3070ti FE. Life never is just that simple, is it?
I love how people just gave away their 400+ usd for free in to someone's pocket on top of the gpu price to get gpu instead of waiting 6-8 months to get it now at 400-500usd lower pricing.
@@1sonyzz I am fully aware of the mistake I made. Quite moronic indeed
Great video. Love your sense of humor. I hope you get a commission on these because I am getting 5 of these things because of your work.
Did you end up putting these copper plates on? How were the results?
Weird question, has anyone ever done a gold mod? Im not sure it would be worth the extra money or not, but some car companies use gold to dissipate the heat in the engine bay. Loved the video thanks for the info.
Now that be good 😊 just makes me think of those salvage guys for gold on the CPU and components 😁 . Dam that be a good salvage
Dropped my memory temps on my 3090 and 3080ti’s by 12c on each one. This is a given from now on
PCB bend aside, you are now more effectively dumping heat from the VRAM in the same small area the GPU is. The fact that both GPU and VRAM temperatures seem to equalize is to be expected. Then again, the slightest height difference between the copper shim and GPU core may also explain the behavior. You can only tell that by disassembling the GPU and checking the contact pattern in the thermal paste.
Mine didn't change or equalize. Maybe it's the nine fans in the case though.
You can just put the kapton tape on the underside of the copper shim :)
Why haven't 3k series owners started hassling NVidia/AIBs about making the memory actually capable of decent temperatures?
My 6900 XT Referemce has zero heat issues with memory or core at minimal fan speeds (~40%) producing very little fan noise.
02:52am i being wrong or that guy is holding a cutter blade ? 🫠
Cool video. I like that you're using a little scraper to really get that 100% coverage. Still didn't do it on the upper side of the copper REEEEE
Overheat edition. Lol!
Thanks for the video. I had no idea these plates exist but it makes me happy that they do.
“But muh temps are safe”… yeah, until time, temp, and voltage does its thing and degrades the ram and you start getting crashes. Lower temps= reliability over time. And can one really rely on being able to buy the gpu one wants when their old gpu takes a dump or starts degrading?
I wonder if I can use that copper shim in my watercooled set up? 🤔
llamame loco, pero con laminas de grafeno y este bicho de cobre ¿no tendríamos una grafica libre de mantenimiento por cambio de pastas?
Will you be making some for the 4090s? Do you ship to Spain?
Great info. Thanks
GREAT JOB!My question.Could copper corrosion be a problem?
The electrochemical series suggests possible corrosion when aluminum and copper are in contact. However, that’s only true when there is an electrolyte present between them. So no, as long as you aren’t dipping your GPU in saltwater you should be fine. Other external factors such as humidity are very unlikely to have an effect either.
Try using sheet aluminum to cut cost. It's a good alternative to copper
the company that makes these plates actually has switched to aluminum.
The silly thing is that many cards already have protrusions on the heat sink to close some of the gap towards the VRAM. It seems the only reason to not go all the way, is that the board makers are not confident in their tolerances allowing all components to contact simultaneously without anything getting crushed. Thermal pads allows the board to be bent without getting destroyed, and I guess NVIDIAs engineers though pads were enough to keep temps in spec.
Definitely dofing this next time I open my card up to replace the pads. Even though the plate is around $50+, I'm spending just as much on quality pads.
Exactly my logic as well. I just bought the copper shims they have for both the front and back of the VRAM. Looking forward to hopefully big improvements.
@@dylanr5384 my 3080 fe decided it wanted to start running hot now. 105-110c vram temps. Looks like I'll be ordering some copper shims lol. Besides it would be so much easier to install these than pads. Pads are pretty much a guessing game on the required thickness the gpu needs. Even though people on the internet says "this card uses this thickness", not all pads can compress well. I've used thermalright pads and they had to be spot on with the card or else it's either too thick or too thin due to not being very compressible but has very good conductivity.
Correction, $90 after tax and shipping, hehe
@@donnellysaprano5489 I got these installed on my FE. Temps went from 110C to around 82C top. On stock pads when they were still working, it was around 96C. A big win for me. The thing is, the FE has probably the worst cooler out of all the other AIB so this is surprising.
Im curious as to what your ambient temps where outside of your
case. MSI Grills, Lol.....
When your extracting so much heat or reduce the temps on mem, it will sync into thr cooler raising core temps depending on workload. Depending on if your a gamer or running compute workloads, copper mod may not be for everyone. If you don't have a Thicc Boy heatsink, copper modding won't be as impactful. Just depends, you and I present the data and it is up to the end user to make the best decision for them. Take care
@elcactuar3354 thank you grammarly
Man's going to get to hundreds of thousands of subs soon
hey there, can you tell me the exact thickness of that plate? thanks
Bro iam subbing just because you are do8ng something different from the million sub channels
AT 3:04 I was like WTF when will he notice that his GPU is BENT lol
I hope i get mine soon, thx for this tuto :)
So no more kapton tape needed ? (just this little bit you put in ? )