RENOGY or VICTRON DC-to-DC Charger for Lithium LiFePO4? / Off-grid RV Solar / RV DIY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Which DC-to-DC Charger is better for charging lithium LiFePO4 batteries from your alternator? Learn how to charge your Lithium LiFePO4 batteries while driving and why I upgraded to Victron.
EQUIPMENT MENTIONED IN VIDEO (Affiliate Links):
Victron Orion 12V 30A DC-to-DC Charger: amzn.to/3CGso1D
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#6 AWG Cable Red/Black: amzn.to/3iMsXiN
#6 AWG Ferrule Crimp Connectors: amzn.to/3yL7pIA
Ferrule Crimper #10-6 AWG: amzn.to/3iIt3aM
Anderson 50A Connector w/ #6AWG Contact: amzn.to/3sdMIT6
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Dude is crystal clear and thorough. Great style.
Thanks. Appreciate the feedback. 👍
I commented on your earlier video on the Renolgy DC to DC charger before watching this one and think you missed a key feature of the Renolgy because you failed to mention the LC (current limiting) terminal on the Renolgy that allows you to reduce the output current by half. This allows you to draw more current when needed and less when it is not. You selected the 20 amp Renolgy for your first install because you didn't want to put a continuous higher load on the alternator, and installed an off switch so you can turn it off when it wasn't needed or desired. But had you made use of the LC terminal you could have added the option of reducing the output current to 10 amps by running a second wire and a three way switch (off, 20 amp, and 10 amp). The output is reduced by half any time current is present in the LC terminal. Both switches can be powered from the same ignition circuit and you can choose from a 20 /10, 40/20, or a 60/30 charger depending upon the size of your alternator. The alternator in my 2015 Ford Expedition with a heavy duty tow package is 250 amp and I went with the 60/30 because I don't have solar (yet).
Great video. Lithium-ion batteries can handle various charging currents, but they can't handle too much voltage. The critical factor to watch is the voltage, not the current. It's important to keep the charging current within the manufacturer's recommended range to avoid damaging the battery. Exceeding this range can lead to reduced lifespan or safety hazards like overheating. That's why voltage regulation is crucial during charging to prevent overvoltage, which can cause serious issues like thermal runaway or combustion. While monitoring both voltage and current is essential, maintaining the correct voltage is typically more crucial for battery safety. This might be why some apps prioritize displaying voltage over current during charging.
I have a 24V LiFePo4 battery and I use the Victron 12/24-15 DC-DC Converter in my travel trailer connected to a dedicated charging circuit from my truck through an Anderson connector. It works great and gives me an extra 300 watts of charging capability driving down the road regardless of solar conditions. It allows me to run my RV fridge off of the 120V instead of propane when driving.
I wish you would make a video...
Excellent tutorial. Easy to understand 'pitch perfect' delivery, exactly the right depth of technical for the 'what does it do, how does it do it and do I need one?' researcher - like myself. Clear and concise. 😊 Thank you.
Brian, as usual your attention to detail is over the top. Thanks for all the good uploads. With regard to the setting that you highlighted between the two chargers I was under the impression that the renogy charger is very much an automatic system. Monitoring the charge of the chassis battery first and then the house batteries all while keeping an eye on the alternator health. The two sets of batteries are isolated and never charged at the same time unless the chassis battery is within charged parameters first. Eliminating the stress on the alternator. It's a great system and it's enabled me to run my refer without worry that my batteries will be depleted when I arrive at my campsite, solar or not. Again just my take. You have a great channel. See you around the sound.
To some extent I believe that's true. However, there's very little control you have over the RENOGY settings. Also, with mine on a switch, the DC-to-DC charger would continue drawing from the chassis battery if I forgot to switch it off after engine shutdown. As I said, the RENOGY charger worked fine. Thanks for the comment.
Brian , Thank you for your informative videos. I always look forward to your updates. I Just bought a Victron 1212/30 DCDC charger and have not yet installed it . I don't think I'm going to use the switch and just let it do it automatically. I have a 2021 winnebago with a 210 amp alt. I just got this new Rv so I will soon be installing my GOPOWER IC2000 inverter , My 600 watts of solar and a Victron Smart Solar controller , Battleborn batteries and this Victron DCDC charger. Your videos keep me motivated so keep posting and thanks. Watching your vids has helped me get the courage to do these projects. Thanks again ...Tony
You're 210 Amp alternator should work great. Mine is much smaller. Good luck!
You may wanna consider a Victron buck booster to charge faster. Can draw up to 100 Amps if I remember correctly.
You can DIY your batteries and save 80% and have a battery you can manage. BB are way overpriced
Wow Tito, you must be an engineer, your description, is great, very thorough, great job!!!!
You realize that you may have to be the "facilities manager" for the RV in the event you ever sell it.......few will understand how all of the interfaces work.....surely they would be getting a very nice RV. Nice job, can't wait for the next sequel for Back to the Future, and they recast Dr Brown to Dr Brian.
GREAT SCOTT Marty!! Sell it? Probably not :)
It’s true. Brian is spending too much time on his coach. Maybe I could catch up with Brian on the road and he could spend some time on my coach!
@@jamesscott1932 :-)
I see and feel the same way... No one would buy my RV as the way I bought it, but now (or soon to be) with all the things I have (or going to ) in it they are going to have to KNOW what all these googies do ... 1,005 watts of Solar, 300-400 AMP Hours of BBB, Propane GEN, a lot of Electrical things (induction cooktop), Motorbike ramp, wave-3 heater, 3000 watts inverter/charger, and soon a MINI Split. maybe a Tankless water heater...
Is the RV worth all that, ??? NO, but it's mine, and these are the things I want.
@@RVingwithG customizing our rigs is more than half the fun.
Interesting you have done exactly what I did with my dc to dc charger with the Anderson plugs for exactly the same reason. It has saved me once already when I had a flattish starter battery at only 12 volts. It wasn't enough to start the motor but 5 minutes of direct connection via the Anderson plugs got me going. Brilliant.
Great job, I really like the idea of running it via Anderson connectors. The only thing I'd change is vertically mounting the unit so that it can dissipate heat properly. It looks slanted, which is better than flat, but the manual specially states a vertical install (section 4.1).
Agreed. I have this same charger and it runs hot, like +115°F. Spoke to a Victron rep and they said up to 130°F is “normal”.
Thanks. I have a temp controlled fan installed to cool the compartment. And yes, the angle is to more hot air up from the heatsinks on the DC charge and inverter above it.
@@RVwithTito What temperature-controlled fan did you use?
@@billjones2806 Just the switch (th-cam.com/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/w-d-xo.html). The fan is just a standard 12V computer fan like this amzn.to/3EKLfZi
The Anderson connections just removed my excuses for not wiring my renogy dctodc unit. I've been making sure to be above 75%soc on travel days. I guess I'll have to muster up the courage to cut ✂️ that yellow battery interconnect wire. Great video. 👍🏾
Glad to hear it. While I was swapping it out I thought I'd do that too. Might come in handy one day.
Very good video. I love your analysis. I have a boat and need to use lead acid batteries not just to start my boat but to provide power in the event of BMS failure. I have been experimenting with paralleling lead acid and lithium to keep my lead acid batteries at 99% SOC while anchored for extended time while not running my engine. It seems to work well. I have a video on this experiment but I learned about this from other videos. It would seem one could add Lithium to existing lead acid banks just by joining the 2 banks as you have show with your connectors. Thanks again for this great video. You have helped me so much.
Same here, using lithium to bridge the night time/rainy days voltage drop in lead acid. Using an awesome gel cell starting battery and have big bank of flooded lead, but I just need lipo4 to get through a few rainy days. I will use a DC/DC charging to maintain the lithium fully charged and may put the lipo on a switch for use as needed, possibly just back feed into the distribution panel with a 15 amp breaker. We will see what works. (Im not convinced the $380 battery combiner is a great value or needed, but I love his idea of combining battery types)
Got the same Victron for my 3 battleborn’s. It is flawless and so very flexible. Non isolated, 3 wires boom done.
So far, I'm liking it too.
I really like watching this guy. He really gets down to details on the products I 'm thinking about buying.
I have a Victron solar controller and can confirm Victron has the best app that handles every situation via bluetooth. But I have a Renogy 40A DC to DC charger that has worked flawlessly. I have a manual on/off switch for my DC to DC since I don't always need to charge my coach batteries while driving.
I had not intended on replacing the RENOGY charger at first. It was working fine. I purchased a Victron Orion for an upcoming project and thought I'd try it out. I liked it and decided to keep it installed.
@@RVwithTito Looking forward to hearing about *that* other project, too! Thanks for all you do to share your expertise!
Brian, FYI a few of us on the Victron Users forum have asked Victron to please add smart networking to the DC/DC charger, no word yet. We figure that adding smart networking adds the sharing of the battery voltage, current and SoC information between all the devices. This would allow them all to stay in sych as to what what charging mode they are in (Bulk, absorption, etc.) otherwise the first charging device would set the voltage on the battery to the level of its mode and the other devices might then not contribute to the charging properly.
Thanks for that info. Yes. That would be great if they did that. All my charge controllers are synched up. It would be nice to add the DC/DC to that. I may have to add a shunt at some point.
@@RVwithTito great video Brian. Ref the Shunt, this would be a perfect device to add the Simarine PICO DC Shunt unit to your system so you can add the Victron Orion current info to the Simarine monitor display :). (I wish Victron had those shunt options instead of having to use the BMVs. I've got THREE BMVs in my RV partly because of that :( )
@@davidl1338 Agreed. I'd probably add a PICO digital shunt to monitor the DC 2 DC output.
I use the Renegy 60amp DC to DC with Bluetooth that has all of the same victron software features you were pointing out... it charges our 48v LifePo4 battery bank on our Travel Trailer. My diesel truck has a giant alternator and it just idles pushing 60amps into the batteries when we get limited sun while boondocking. I have ran the motor for over 2 hours one night and only used about half a gallon of diesel.
The ideal setup! The motor you already have is your backup generator! I also use my engine with an oversized alternator as a supplement when panels can't keep me powered. I have a much smaller system with a 6 cyl gas engine.
Thanks for the video Brian. I am looking into lithium and would need to do this and glad to see how you did it.
Glad it was helpful!
That’s a nice mod Brian if I were to switch to lithium on my travel trailer I know that it charges through the 7:way plug I would probably have to run a second charge line from the truck to use that I know if you don’t put some sort of device on your system it can cook the alternator I watched that battle born video and I was quite surprised with the outcome 😁
You may want to use an online voltage drop calculate to figure out what cable thickness to use for the length you need. Good luck.
Corey what is a popular way other folks are protecting their alternator VIA the RV 7 way plug? Thanks.
@@kk-pz8gn watch Jared from all about rvs I think you only have to protect it if you are running a separate charge line the 7 way only puts out about 1 to 2 amps while charging
Great info. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
You're welcome. Hope it was helpful.
Enjoying the information- just dipping my toes into solar here in New Zealand 🤚
Wait til the water gets to your torso 😀
Excellent video, thanks for showing all the phone settings as well.
You bet. Glad it was helpful.
the Renogy 40A can be switched to 20A for regular driving to increase the life of your LFP. switch to 40A only when required.
If your batteries are hot, the battery bms may over temp shut down at 40A continous, thus select 20A
CONGRATS ON 100K SUBS!!! GREAT CONTENT VERY HELPFULL! KEEP IT UP!
Thanks!! I appreciate that. Cheers.
Thanks Brian , always useful information.
You're welcome!
Hi Brian.
Great video! I did notice than where you installed the Victron DC to DC charger was pretty cramped .My experience is, when the unit goes into a bulk charge, it can get very warm. You might want to make sure it has plenty of ventilation. Safe travels.
Very good point. I have this same charger and it runs hot, like +115°F. Spoke to a Victron rep and they said up to 130°F is “normal”.
Thanks. The compartment is automatically vented with a fan.
Tripple redundant stuff? Good setup. You did a good job!
We just leave our solar charge controllers on 24/7. With the 2000 watts of solar. Charging while running down the road is not a worry. Bluetooth is nice but after I see the system is working. I rarely look at the Bluetooth app. As always a great video with excellent information. 👍👍
2K of solar us a good number. It's just for those cloudy or rainy stretches.
Victron rocks! 🇦🇺👍
its possible to charge a lifepo4 battery directly with alternator. If you now what you do. if you now the parameter and specs of alternator at low rpm, if the max current is compatible with your battery and also the charging voltage. Victron produce a intelligent reel to do that
Great video really handy! thanks
You're welcome!
Thank you! Your videos helped me get started and now they're going to help me upgrade!
Have you thought about a higher amperage alternator? Mechman makes then up to 370+ amps and they usually have a lot higher output at idle than stock. Then you could supply more like 60-90 amps to your batteries.
Maybe down the road it's something I'll consider, especially since I don't have a generator anymore. I've used the DC charger quite a bit recently on those rainy days.
@@RVwithTito Heat is the problem with the high amperage 12v alternators. If you have a low SOC and you are pulling a lot of amps and not able to dissipate the heat you will fry those alternators.
I have a 2007 Winnebago Journey, and have been struggling with having to eliminate my Boost function in order to install a DC to DC charger. Your idea of using the Anderson Connectors turned the light on in my brain, that I could also use a multi position switch that would disconnect the wires to the DC to DC charger while at the same time connecting the two battery circuits together. It would still be a manual operation under the Generator hood (front of my Diesel Pusher) but still accessible and would protect the Orion from damage.
Good job/vid/info. I like the Ando idea, I do this myself as it also makes it a portable Dcdc charger unit as well as redundancy in case of problems/issues.
One small area u may want to check, & ‘old habits die hard’ here, while ferrules look very nice on an install, there is some controversy over their use and Victron actually advise not to use ferrules, but just good bear copper as their connectors are made to contact the copper better without ferrules or solder.
Victron is great gear & feature full, but quite dear in Australia too, ur controller is about $450 AUD while the 40A Renogy is only $180, so that’s what I got for now for a lithium camper setup.
I agree with ur criticisms of the Victron App & charger features, but then Victron would rather you buy another $200 shunt, I think they could have added that in for the price. TFS. Cheers
I haven’t read all the comments, re combining the lithium with start batteries in emergency. Have you done this? I could be mistaken, but, if you connect a fully charged lithium to a dead lead acid, the lithium is going to try and fill (charge) the lead acid ALL AT ONCE! You will either blow something up, or (hopefully) the BMS in the lithium will shut her down. Once again, I could be wrong, but interested in learning how it works in real life. Best, Dan
You're not wrong. It's not recommended and I never do it.
I have Victron gear including the smart shunt, but my 30A DC-DC is not Victron & that's because i wanted dual input facility, one input from my alternator & the other goes to an anderson plug which i then plug in folding 260w solar panel (handy in winter months).
Interesting. Thanks.
Great video! I just had to subscribe. You should be teaching electrical engineering. Thanks, I learned a lot. February, 2023.
Welcome! So glad you learned something from this video. I appreciate the feedback!
Great video, convinced me to get the Victron charger. One remark on you setup if I may. From reviews I read, the converter can get hot. For better heat dissipation, it would be best to mount the charger vertically.
Hi Brian, another great video. I really apricate how you can deliver information so easily understood. With regards to your original factory wiring that uses a switch and solenoid to merge the chassis & house batteries. Those solenoids typically have keyed and switched 12v triggers. If so, couldn't you have disconnected the keyed 12v connection and left the switch in use? This way it would still work as it did originally and the alternator wouldn't be charging through the merge solenoid when driving. You could then connect the chassis battery side of the solenoid to the Victron DC charger. Am I overlooking something that wouldn't work correctly? Thanks again
Brian, please do take great care attempting to use your house battery to assist starting your engine. Depending on charge levels, you starter motor can draw upwards of 800A from a chassis battery. The biggest anderson connectors available on the market are only rated for 350A with typical sizes only being rated for 50A or 175A. Also, 3/0 or even 4/0 cable, depending on cable run length, would be needed to ensure safe operation. I would strongly recommend *not* doing this. You can buy compact LiPo battery starter packs easily capable of supplying 1,000A plus for this purpose.
I heard the same thing from a Victron certified RV tec regarding using the start assist and lithium batteries. His concern was burning out the BMS on your Battleborn or what ever brand lithium battery you had. He said he has had to replace several fried batteries because of this. When I installed my victron DC to DC charger I disconnected the start assist wire.
@@KenVanB58 Good point - another very good reason not to do this. Most integrated BMS' are only rated for their AH rating in Amps e.g. 100A for a 100AH battery.
Thanks for the heads up. Makes sense. I won't do it. I've never had to start my starter battery from the house anyway.
@@RVwithTito In theory, couldn't you hook up the DC-DC backwards, and use the house bank to charge, at 30A, the chassis battery? You leve it hooked up for a half hour and it should bring the starter battery up enough to work.
@@iamyourantonberteaux3296 I suppose that would work.
Beautiful Information ℹ️. Thank You 🙏 So much! We just bought a 2023 Winnebago Solis (National Park Foundation) Edition & I’m trying to learn as much as I can about the electrical ⚡️ system Etc. This was Invaluable Information ℹ️. New Subscriber 🙋♂️ here. 🍻 👊 🇺🇸
Glad it was helpful. Enjoy the van! It reminds me of the 1970 VW Pop Top camper I had before #vanlife was a thing (Damn - should've kept it - Ugh)
Good points in the video, Tito, sir. Thank you for making it. I bought the Renorgy version for my travel trailer but might wait until we get our toy hauler motorhome before installing it. I can use it to charge the battery in the toy hauler garage which will power my ham radios & other stuff as a separate system from the house battery bank. Why have a separate system, even if small? The distance is the main factor & the small system (1-2 lifepo4 batteries and it can run our cell/WIFI booster from DC, etc). The Renorgy or the Victron would be tricky for installation in our travel trailer either way.
I can mount either in our storage compartment where I have my inverter & 300-amp fuse, it is just a pain to run the 4-6 gauge wire from the 40-50-amp breaker at the engine compartment into the travel trailer. Having that extra heavy wire of sufficient length coming out under the truck tailgate that is secured yet lose in an umbilical protector that comes up in yet another hole I have to drill into the floor of the travel trailer storage area is going to be a technical feat. Currently, I use the access door on the side of the travel trailer to input our solar ground mount array (the trailer is a couple years older than when Lance started installing SAE connectors for solar input). I run the MC4 connectors into the trap door of the driver-side sewer tube connector for the four Renergy 100-watts panels wired in the 48-volt configuration to our Victron 100/30 charge controller for extra solar charging of our two BB LIFEPO4 batteries. It doesn't make sense to use that same access door for a charge while driving with the charge line from the truck as it is not located front and center of the travel trailer (where the batteries are, but the Renorgy/Victron DC-DC can not be located there due to the need for a good waterproof solution). We camp host in the summer in the mountains so we have 160 watts of solar on the roof of our Lance TT and the 400-watts on the ground (as Camp Host RV sites always have beneficial shading that is great for cooling, but not so great for solar). So in the end, your video here is going to cost me a purchase of a Winnebago motorhome (always wanted one anyway) or if I am really advancing my Imagineering skills, a Renegade Classic 2609 toy hauler. Thanks again, Tito, sir.
Everything looks great except no alternator temperature sensor!!! Marine industry has had it for years what the heck🙄😱
Great setup 👌. Thanks
You bet.
If you could hook up a heat gauge on your alternator to show you hot hot it is you could keep up with the temp and turn your charger off and see what the resting temp is and how high the temps go under load and if it gets too high you could shut your dc to dc charger off and let it cool off for a while and after some time would see what’s normal and what’s too hot. Just a thought don’t know if it would help but couldn’t hurt .
Thanks. I have to look at your earlier dc to dc charge control. I followed the solar solution guy YT channel 3rd option for charging deep cycle house battery and starter battery and protecting the alternator. He explained why type of battery requires a different type of charging. His 3rd option was to connect alternator to house battery first via the dc to dc control and then charging the starter battery from the house battery. I am not clear on your system which batteries are charged 1st, then 2nd.
The chassis battery will be recharged quickly after engine startup. Afterwards, it's primarily the house battery that's getting charged with the DC-to-DC. You can set this to happen automatically using the start voltage settings, or switch it on manually as I do.
Love the channel....I have used some of your techniques and recommendations on my yacht. Thanks for such a good and informative channel.
The Anderson bypass plugs; I was talking with B Born ... and they said the LiFiPO4 are not to be used as a start battery. ... whereas the lead acid batteries can handle the spike jump of amps to turn the starter. I am only at 6:51 in the video and you may be addressing this (before I forget :-)).
I didn't mention it in the video, but you're correct. What you could probably do is simply connect them (not starting) for a while and let the LFPs put a little charge into the starter battery. Thanks for raising the issue.
@@RVwithTito That is a good idea in form to charge up the start battery. Have a great day....
Very useful video, I'm getting ready to install a 2 awg umbilical cord setup in my 2020 f350 dual alternator tow vehicle. With the factory dual alternator option in our trucks tow package, one would think we're golden in getting a useful charge back to the coach batteries ... But nooooo! Going to install a 40 amp DC/DC unit in our rig. Thanks, we enjoy all your episodes.
Now if you just had a 40% discount code for us ... 🤣
Without a DC-to-DC the voltage in the truck needs to be sufficiently higher than the coach voltage in order for current to flow back. The DC-to-DC charger will charge at an appropriate voltage which could be up to 14.6 volts.
Mortons on the Move YT channel has some info of the SuperDuty dual alternator setup...Ford only 'turns on' the second alternator under certain conditions...
this was informative
an excellent video
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Love all the mods you have completed on your class c. How is the engine, transmission holding up? What about the exterior after the time in the sun ☀️? 😎🇺🇸
The exterior is showing it's age, but the engine and trans is great. I stay on top of the preventative maint though.
Good job
Thanks
Very good and useful video, great presentation
Glad it helped!
Renogy DC2DC 50 amp with MPPT is awesome and better than victron from a cost perspective. However for those wondering the renogy will not charge at 50amp if solar is connected to it. However I use it only as a dc to dc for the Bluetooth capability and and the look of it too. Best bang for the buck. Victron is great stuff but has become way to overhyped. Like fan boys with subwoofers LOL
I am very impressed with Victron. Their products have real warranty. Renology is reputed to be difficult to pin down. Victron are built to marine standards. All my Victron devices work together and from same bluetooth app. Maybe it's like Apple, which I don't use but can appreciate why people do.
Still I like that feature that the Renology DC to DC does solar as well. Should be very good choice for those who are not in the Victron eco system.
I would fit a Severe Duty , Leece Neville Alternator with a smart regulator, set for LifePo4. We had a 400 amp alternator which ran our heavy loads while motoring .
What is the Simarine monitor you're using? I couldn't find it in the description. Looks convenient to watch your battery status on your phone 🤳
It would be nice to also have the VE.Direct port on the DC charger
Yes it would.
Renogy has a 60amp now with bt adapter. They also have a 50amp with built in Mppt charger
That’s the same way I have mine set up with a switch that when it’s on it lights to remind me to tur off because if you start batteries and your lithium batteries are low they will drain your start batteries dry and quick .
The Renogy has a current limiting function that I wish the Victron has.
wow~! Thanks for great video~!^)^
Thank you too
Great tip about jump start access point! My chassis batteries are in s toigh spot to get too!
Thanks Brian. Like 172!
Thank you too!
i have a 65A alternator. and 200ah lifepo4. During travel I have 20-30A of load for many utility like e-bike, fridge, evaporative conditioner etc etc. with a dc-dc of 30-40A I don't have any current to charge the battery. with a simple rele of 230A and 35mmq cable I charge 30A with 30A of loads. My alternator, a low rpm in poor cooling conditions (es at stoplight), don't can produce more of 20-25A, even in short circuit. its not depends from type of battery. lithium, lead, nichel...its depend from the delivery curve of the project of alternator
Cool, learned a bit. Trying to figure out how to set mine up. I like this setup. I ordered a DIY style LiFePO4 couple weeks ago. Picked up my van yesterday. Either way ima do the same thing with the anderson connectors and flip switch. Thanks. (ill buy that old charger if you wanna sell it haha)
Excellent video for my education. Victron has two versions of chargers, isolated and NON-isolated. Why do you pick ISOLATED version? Thanks!
I would like to know as well Brian. I'm in the process of doing this to my class A. Couldn't you use the non-isolated version and keep the solenoid so you can use the "remote start" switch to jump to your coach batteries? Thank you!
DCDC is required if the distance is short between ALT and lithium batteries.... otherwise a towed trailer that will add about 8-10m (30ft) of cable will regulate itself due to voltage drop. even 3B&S will regulate to approx 40amp at beginning and about 18amp at 95% full and that is with a 14.2v CC alternator. Capacity does not factor in as the drop determines the draw.
The 13 YO in me still had to laugh when he said, "flip it off"... Ha Ha... 😁
😀
You also could charge my batteries if I had a cable with the anderson connector and I was next to you lol. with a remote engine starter 15 minutes of charge without getting out of bed
Ooops! Maybe I shouldn't have shared that part :)
Great job! Appreciate the information
Have you tried the Battle Born Batter Isolator ? You konnekt the lead battery in conjunction with the lithium….. 70amp Charge Rate
No I haven't tried that one. Do you have one?
Remember that the Battery Isolator DOES NOT control the charging voltage, the alternator will. It will also not regulate the charging current, the battery itself will.. This isn’t the best way to charge your batteries. Its function is not that of a battery charger, its designed to prevent your RV/house battery from discharging your Starter batteryl.
Good video. Have you considered upgrading the alternator. 200-300 amp alt are not that pricy . I may be going that route on my E450
What brand(s)/alternator source(s) are you considering? Thanks!
@@larryoverstreet3610 no brand in specific but saw them eBay. I assume if everything beyond the alternator is wired correctly it should do the trick and be very helpful .
Just came to me, I can use this to charge from the 12V EV to the chassie battery while having this in the middle. Ordering now
Good luck!
@@RVwithTito Ordered thru the links, along with cables and Ferrels. Thanks!
@@RVwithTito Just installed it. Charging from a Model S 12V to a Tesla Battery single module (22.4V nominal). This orion charger is a killer, using RC chargers which are not reliable /hacky / slow. Now my battery is guaranteed to be topped off everyday regardless of solar. Thank you
@@mostafaelgamel6415 Sweet! Glad it's working well for ya.
Your video content is always informative. I know you have the solar and that is putting a pretty good charge on your batteries, without the amperage coming from your solar would you want something larger charging your LiFePO4 batteries from the alternator as in the Renogy 60A or two of the Orion 12-12-30's?
The more amps the better to recharge your LFPs faster.
I did pick one of these up and installed with a regular alt. At first it was fine and BB sent their settings but it now ... never goes into absorbtion and keep on Off and Charge is disabled. My 200W panels fully charged back 20% in 1 day with overcast and little clear. The Victron solar controller sure does a great quick job... with full sun it would have been quicker... well, so I guess I need to drain off the 100% again with the set to BB settings and see what happens ... When it was full before the DC DC 30 seemed to still add... but now it doesn't
Renogy also makes a 60A DC-DC charger
Brian, why a DC to DC charger and not just use a Battery isolation Manager that is made for Lithium batteries?
Haven't tried those, but I like having my Victron gear all managed in one place. That's one reason.
A battery isolator only protects one battery from influencing the charging or discharging of another. A batter isolator DOES NOT provide the proper charging profile to the batteries in that it does not switch between bulk, absorption, and float modes so while it will allow your battery to be charged, it’s not the best and efficient way to do so. A battery isolator just prevents your RV from drawing power from your starter battery and pulling it down, and if equipped with a switch will allow your RV battery to charge your starter battery.
Further to @Marv S, a battery isolator wouldn't protect you from overloading your alternator. A fully discharged Li-Ion battery would essentially 'look like' a dead short circuit to a power source so no matter when the isolator 'kicks in', you're going to get a huge subsequent current draw. You should never directly charge a Li-Ion battery from an alternator, assuming that you want to protect your safety and investment, of course.
There are 'smart alternators' out there that current limit their output to some maximum but you'll still need to design your system around that limit e.g. if your house battery needs 14.6V to fully charge and your alternative produces 14.8V, you can only drop 0.2V along the cable run - that requires some seriously big cable to achieve.
@@davidadams421Battle born recommends a BIM.Battle Born LiFePO4 Battery Isolation Manager Li-BIM225. Under normal charging conditions, the Li-BIM225 will connect for 15 minutes every 35 minutes. That means that the BIM will connect for 15 minutes, disconnect for 20 minutes, and repeat this cycle until the coach battery is charged.
If the coach battery resting voltage exceeds 13.4V than the Li-BIM225 will disconnect. A resting voltage greater than 13.4V indicates a fully charged battery. Note that “resting voltage” means that no current is flowing to the coach battery.
The Li-BIM225 will disconnect if the alternator voltage exceeds 14.4V. This protects the coach battery from over charging.
The BIM will disconnect if the voltage difference between the alternator and the coach battery is less than 0.1V. If the voltage difference is too low, then there is a negligible charging current, and no need to connect to the coach battery
The BIM will disconnect if the alternator voltage drops below 13.3V. If the alternator voltage is too low, than it cannot adequately charge the coach battery, so there is no reason to connect.
@@liedj2317 It sounds like this device has been designed with alternator charging in mind, and has a lot of smarts, though no mention of current limiting. As a personal preference, I believe a DC-DC charger would offer a better solution.
Another good video. Thank you
Yikes. I was on a road trip and my charge controller wouldn't work. So, I used jumper cables to give my battery a small charge. I think I had it connected for about 30 minutes. I hope that didn't do too much damage to my alternator.
Biggest reason the Renogy is actually better is because it has low temp cutoff capabilities and the Victron does not. There is absolutely No excuse for Victron to not include the VE networking to be able to monitor the temp like they do on their MPPT solar chargers. In a van or RV in aub zero temps you will kill your $1,000 plus batteries with the Victron B2B charger
Hmm I’m doing an audio install with 2 20ah lithium battery’s and I see that victron appears to have much smaller inputs, I doubt you could even get 2 or 4 gauge in there. In audio everyone typically runs the thickest gauge possible for fear of bottleneck.
RENOGY has a 60amp, that's cheaper than the victron 30amp. I don't need the fancy phone stuff, so its good for me.
I want to use a single Li for both starting, solar and van electrical. I don't want to spend allot of money.
I guess there are a lot of different ways to accomplish the same thing. I would probably have just put in a relay tied to your boost switch, probably more expensive, but also more convenient.
I am testing out the Renogy 50 Amp DC-DC charge controller which can use solar and the alternator at the same time. I have experienced a few oddities while testing it. It will sometimes not go to mppt, if it's charging both the house and starter batteries, it tends to go close to open pv panel voltage, about 20v from my renogy panels, or if there is a draw on the house batteries, it will drop to 16v instead of the 18v mppt. I have also seen it get stuck putting a small charge on the starter battery, and next to nothing to the house batteries which are under load and discharging. If I reboot the charger it corrects this but it does make it completely unreliable as a solar charge controller when the engine is not running, these problems never happen when the alternator is supplying some of the current.
Are you still experiencing the same issues?
@@jonathanguay5590 )
Yes, it will charge from vehicle, up to 50 amps with no solar. It starts to reduce if there is solar down to 0 from alternator at 25 amps solar. If controller goes to float it will sometimes send a trickle charge to vehicle battery if the vehicle battery drops below 13v, this is when it often gets stuck in trickle mode to both house and vehicle, even with lots of available solar and a fairly large load on house batteries leading to depleted house batteries even with more than enough solar. To get any reliability out of this unit I have to disconnect the vehicle if I want to use full solar to run loads. It's just such an odd problem. Obviously just a software fault.
Great video, thank you so much!
I have one I love it.
Great Video!
Just curious I would like to add a dc to dc to my Ford 2002 7.3 power Stroke any ideas how I can find out if I have a variable current (smart alternator)?
The Ford Dealership and a local alternator repair shop had no idea what I was talking about. How did you determine what you have in your Ford motor home ?
I've heard that if you give a dealer the VIN they can tell you.
Hi Brian, A couple of questions. I see you are using the isolated version of the DC-DC charger. Is there a reason you picked that one over the other? I like the jumper idea with the connectors to connect the coach battery directly for a jump. I hate to loose that function. I can see where the isolated one may be easier for cabling in that case.
Is the Victron capable of being in a semi-outdoor situation? My Trombetta is in the battery compartment and it is open on the backside so somewhat exposed to WX as I would drive.
Right now, if my DC Charger in the coach is on, it also charges the chassis battery. Does this device still do that? If not, how to you keep that battery topped off?
Great video and good details. Details I have not seen Victron mention in their videos. Thanks!
if your battery has a bms why do you even need a dc to dc charger just charge it directly off the alternator, just make sure your alternator can handle the amperage and if it cant upgrade that because if it cant handle that it probably will die from the DC to DC over time
Thanks Brian
On the VE side, there's a smart model, with built in Bluetooth which would have given this feature. Not sure if you can add the victron Bluetooth adapter to your Orion.
Don't think there's a com port on this one.
Wow after a year the price of Renogy 20A went down. Just paid $90.
The renogy is what ip67 rated or not very water resistant at all. It works but for that kind of construction I’d be happier if it could survive at least a small misting. Also wtf the components are attached to the base plate and not the case shouldn’t the case be a heat sink? Apparently renogy think it’s an afterthought
The Victron uses convective cooling and the manual wants it mounted vertically. Are you concerned with overheating with your horizontal mounting?
Very good point. I have this same charger and it runs hot, like +115°F. Spoke to a Victron rep and they said up to 130°F is “normal”.
It's actually mounted at an angle allowing the heat to escape. The compartment also has a temp controlled ventilation fan to pull heat out when it reaches 90 deg F
Nice topic and review of the Victron. The question is…. You originally went with a low output Renorgy DC charger so as not to damage the alternator incase of a mass amp pull from the house battery. But, now, you are up to 30 amp Victron charger. Whats to say that that is not going to put too much strain on the alternator while at idle at traffic light? Besides by turning it off manually at idle in traffic? The voltage set cutoff is fine but that only is a feature to disconnect if the car alternator is sick and not producing. It does not meter the amps based on conditions.
Being that you have a stock low amp alternator.
It's been fine so far, but I don't leave it at idle too much, or while climbing mountains, or with the A/C running hard. Yes, the protection is based on voltage not current. I've found it cutting out when under loads, so I've been tweaking the settings.
@@RVwithTito I don't know how different vehicles are setup but my van alternator will not put out the voltage when it heats up. I can pull 40+ amps when cool at 14.2 V but it drops to 13.3 in hot traffic. I believe these are smart alternators that have a feedback loop based on temp? Not sure how it works but it self-regulates.
I did put a high output alternator in and that doubled the output when idling but I think it's still using same feedback.
@@ceeweedsl Are you running your A/C in hot traffic?
@@RVwithTito Yup, A/C usually on. Even with upgraded alternator, A/C or no, voltage at the house battery drops with lowered rpm and/or heat. I guess A/C pulls about .1 V.
I don't have a DC to DC and just charge direct, switched by a Victron Li-charge triggered off the BMV 720. I only have 150 amps of battery so I can get away with that.
That said, in the morning, it's cool and starting up the engine fast idles and voltage goes up, that's when I can pull 40 amps charging for a short while. It all seems managed. I don't think it's easy to overheat smart alternators.
Nice, good information
Thanks!
So this video was done 2ys ago. Has Victron added those missing features, that you highlighted, since then ?
Did you do any research on your alternators capabilities before you went up the 10 amps from the Renogy to the Victron? I have been looking all over. I can't find any good way to find alternator specs to make sure I don't overload the alternator
Would Installing one of these and feeding it to the center pin on the trailer wiring be a good idea for charging the battery on a Toad? As opposed to relying on the 15amps that is typically put out on that pin.