Razor E300 Scooter Gets Big Battery Power Upgrade - Scooter Episode 3
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Parts links below!
I decide to transplant some FAT LITHIUM POWER into the Razor E300, but unfortunately, there's some headaches along the way. We're not done yet... we need to toughen this beast up across the board.
Parts sourced from Hobbyking, though one day I'd like to try subbing in a dedicated e-Bike pack instead, you know? LiPos are great. We love power after all!
Parts -
Batteries - ebay.us/NKKxWJ
BMS - ebay.us/IuIFmf
![[Re:all TREASURE] EP.6 in 방콕ㅣ🚩 쩡캠의 방콕 투어 빵 마이 와이 👍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uyFw-nItA_s/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the videos mate. Because of your vids I did the same thing to my E300. I used 9 x 3s batteries to make it around 36v and 15000ah. I also promptly blew up the the speed controller. I upgraded to a 36v 850w one from eBay with a proper variable throttle. The scooter was awesome to ride! But then the motor failed. So then I upgraded to the 36v 350watt version of the same motor just longer. It fits well but I had to grind off the stand and drill new mounting holes. But worth it, it's really smooth and quick to ride.
dude, that's sick! I'm 50/50 on buying a properly rated controller at this point just cause hacking variable throttle into this one feels hard and I wanna be able to cruise slow...
does upgrading a Razor Pocket Mod to a 12ah be ok? (from a 7ah) Or will it burn something inside the scooter or the controller. just 24v just the 2 battery not a 3rd.
Variable throttle is SUUUPPEERRR easy with the razor controller. Earlier models of these scooters came with a variable speed 'grip' - the part that is on the handlebars. There are several ways you can make this scooter variable speed. Potentiometer inline with the control wire, or just get the grip part off of ebay.
How much did this upgrade cost???
7 minutes and 46 seconds time in would be a good time for someone to come back behind him with a inflated lunch sack and pop it kaboom
love this playlist so far. ive nicknamed it "Aussie bloke messes with a electric scooter"
Haha, glad you're digging it!
I'm also in the process of converting a razor e300 to 36V lithium (ion), I applied the mods you suggested on the stock controller but so far, the scoot is just incredibly slow. I'll continue watching your vids on the subject because I learn quite a bit all along. Thanks for showing your failed attempts, they're as interesting as the tip that work !
Hope it's going well!
@@WhatUpTKHere Well, I did learn a great deal along the way but the Razor isn't a Razor anymore. I removed the chain, motor, and replaced them with a (I think) 10 inch brushless motor wheel, along with a 10P7S battery (that's 26 Ah minimum!). You can find pretty easily that kind of motors on aliexpress. Ah, and the controller had to be changed as well for a brushless variant, the brakes are included inside the motor (drum brakes as well). I also installed a means to add a temporary extra battery to maximize speed (to go from 7S to say 10S or 13S, that's a jump from 29V to 54,6V, the controller and motor are tolerant to that kind of voltages). This system can be removed if I so wish (and the extra battery/batteries is kept inside a backpack on the pilot's back). The speeds are pretty sweet. My son (around 60kg) managed to go 40 kph on 10S, I was more on 33-35 kph. Finally, there was so much torque on the motor axle that it managed to round the slit which was holding the motor (a disaster almost happened due to that). So now, I installed a set of torque arms, and I hope I'm good to go for a pretty long time without any problem !
Pretty exprensive upgrades but worth it, if you already have the Razor !
Xt90s need a generous (not too generous) "tinning" to wire end and connector prior to soldering. Hold wire to terminal and apply heat. No need to add extra solder. A finer soldering tip also helps. Usually, but not always, this method works for me.
JAFO thanks for sharing your tips - to be honest, I didn't even think of researching methods before diving in!
i almost pissed my pants at the 14 :10 mark when it took off
Me too, to be fair
Great video! I think the problem with the XT-90 connectors is that the solder kinda is sticking to the outside of the wire/solder tab. The key is to make everything really hot. Basically, I'm saying get an 80-watt iron from Jaycar or something... they are quite cheap! If the wire is at the melting point of solder, then the solder will flow into the spaces within the cable, and you won't get any solder 'bumps' on the connection.
Good call! I definitely have improved since this shoot, I'm starting to solder them fairly tidy. That said, I still skip those plastic tabs. Bit too fussy for me hahaha. :D
@@WhatUpTKHere bro I just bought a soldering GUN. Way more fun than the iron. If you are into that sort of thing check her out.
This guy does sniff test! Subscribed!
O Toro gotta be done hahaha. Welcome!
use a higher wattage soldering iron, it will heat faster and make a better smoother connection, probably 100 w would do the trick.
You're so right
You know your electronics. And these are quite humorous videos. I am following the "Rest Of The Story" to see the completion of a Kickass Scooter.
Gregory Yates thanks, glad you're digging the project :D
Well TK, I suppose I am bumping a 3 year old question but your video stands for newbies. Nice videos. Educational.
Try at your own risk:
So, at 5:54 there are a few solutions to your soldering problems. First, the reason for the problem: the size of the wire & connector you are soldering have a larger surface area than your soldering iron tip. So, those items drain the heat from your soldering iron.That leads to a cold solder joint. Thats why you have a lump of solder that blocks the housing from sliding on after the solder job. You need a larger soldering iron or at least, a larger soldering tip and probably about a temp of 850F to quickly flow solder on that connection.
The easy fix for the results you have, file the lump down with a metal file (use standard safety precautions: eye protection, a mask so you don't breath in lead smoke or lead dust, wash hands well after handling lead solder, etc) . Another trick, when your parts get too hot, throw a damp/ wet cloth onto the parts to cool it off quickly. Of course, it won't look pretty. You will appear to have a cold solder joint. At least your wire insulation and plastic connector won't melt.
best of luck.
Great tips! I’ve definitely improved my soldering game in the last couple of years. Gear helps!
@@WhatUpTKHere-- Keep on Rockin it TK !
I like your style! You can be a huge TH-cam star!
Maybe one day ;D
This is the best I can search on scooters improved video, you should create your own an electric scooter. Some believe that you have enough ability and mentality.I need English translation software assistance, translation may not be accurate. But believe me, this is a wonderful tribute and hope
I have a regular scooter I concerted to electric years ago - one day I'll repair it and bring it to TH-cam :D
Lol. I still think you are a genius. I've been excitedly waiting a while for this update. Im still excited to see what happens next.
Haha, cheers man :D more to come for sure ;D
What country do you live in? Your driveway is beautiful. What degree do you have? I remember you wrote what degree you have in the comments in another video. You are very smart. You are very funny as well. Lol you reply very quickly. I like that!!! It's funny! Take care of yourself TK.
Bachelor of Engineering, and I'm down in Australia, great weather hahaha.
Holy crap. I love Australia. It's beautiful over there. That's the number one place I want to travel to. The Australian accent is my favorite accent. I used to be obsessed with the Crocodile Hunter show. No wonder you sound like a genius.
Myself , built my own control with a NE555 for pwm running a couple on IRF1405N mosfets. Good for 55v 169A max. I did have some initial problems with blowing the protection diode across motor which then blew mosfets. That was fixed by reducing current of back EMF. All good hit 41 kph then burnt motor then replaced with different motor now 36 kph and more range.
Should add the scooter i started with is a Kmart E kick out of the box12v lead acid 9kph. Now charged around 51 volt.
Very nice!
What did you do to reduce back EMF? Change PWM frequency, or?
@@WhatUpTKHere to reduce back current I just used a couple of resistors in series with diode Still protects with added benefit less rolling resistance when you shut off throttle. Also I do have a dead man's handle which operates a relay and just shuts everything off. The basic NE 555 dc motor speed controller circuit came from .... How to Mechatronics . Com . I added the twin mosfets and voltage regulation due to the control runs on 12v and the supply is from a 20 v tap in the battery pack . Why not 12v thats because the project evolved slowly some things changed and others botched. On that one i even ran a string of diodes to dump a couple of volts to try to remove some work from regulator. The original motor was 12v. 100watt..with the intention of speed only and to hell with everything else and that's how I got 41kph then burn out. But now i have backed off for distance and reliability. The lithium batteries were taken from Aldi 20v 4ah power tool packs $38 each. Cheaper than Jaycar similar cells at almost $20 each.
that is actually cool! nonstop scooter
We go fast;
you should get a liposafe it covers your battery kinda like tin foil and it can withstand explosions
Great idea.
Had me in bits😂 great vid
Ty! I had fun :)
My disability scooter now runs from 4mph to 12mph. Magic!
i find with large cup type connectors like the ones you used, its best to heat the connector with the wire pre-tinned and inside the cup and tack it, then flow a little more in by touching the solder to the wire directly and the heat should pull it towards the cup
Always good to hear another take on technique! I've gotten quite comfortable soldering these connectors in the last couple years; when I started using them back in 2010 I definitely had a lot more headaches, but I was using a very underpowered iron so that was harming my work.
@@WhatUpTKHere Ah, not enough thermal energy or mass will do it, thanks for the reply i should catch up on your newer posts, should have checked the date before i went offering advice lol.
I used a 200W iron £8 from eBay. Job is quick, easy and perfect.
Digging the video updates on the project!
Recently got myself an E300 as well to tinker with, and eventually net some LifePo4s to toss in it, however instead of eBay I tried checking out some websites with parts at decent prices. Found the WildScooterParts.com website and ordered a kit with a 500w capable speed controller AND a variable throttle handlebar control. Delivery wasn't so bad for the US, it was a bit annoying however that the tracking ended when it left the US. Took just under two weeks to deliver. Have not installed it yet, however I am looking forward to seeing if there's a difference to the basic performance before I add more battery capacity.
Good luck to ya!
that's awesome man! I'll have to check out the site, I'm contemplating a gear change too
Bro why you don,t use lithium ion you will get better battery and easier chargering I recommend using 18650 lithium ion cells
These are lithium polymer cells
I know that's why I am saying you should use lithium ion instead of lithium polymer.
@@WhatUpTKHere different chemistry.
Just add a switch directly to the motor and battery removed control modem.
Bad idea. On off is not fun
Parts links in the description!
Very Good video! Kudos!
Cheers mate :)
What Up TK Here; why does the E300 require a speed controller?
Why not wire the batteries through a relay (triggered by the throttle) straight to the motor?
1: you get sparks every time you engage it that destroy the relay contacts very quickly.
2: instantly going full throttle on a powerful scooter will throw you off.
I saw you used ryobi battery's in the past have you ever thought about using ryobis 24v or make custom 24v packs
It's possible to make a custom pack I have down it before
It is possible! I went with these high output lithium polymer batteries as I was familiar with their performance and love their huge current delivery. 18650s are good too but far more of a pain to assemble into a custom pack. Also, when I did this, ebike packs weren’t as much of a thing.
Thanks for watching, hope you enjoyed!
I'll say this, it's a good thing you're tall and strong enough to lift that 50 plus pounds of metal. I was imagining what could've happened when that happened to me if my brake failed to stop the motor and to just let it loose since I can't lift that heavy from the handle bars, I wonder how fast it will go with no weight standing on it, then crash head on to a car? you know what, I just thought of putting this thing on a treadmill to really see the speed without a passenger. thevweight of it should be enough to grab the tread, and just balace it's speed with the mill's. hmmm
T C Woodworks and Design if you're brave enough to do it test the top speed with roller blades! Won't be exact but will show you a lot closer to it's max speed than being on the scooter.
I Don't see how your channel doesn't have more subs
max uz just a matter of time ;) #workhardorworkhome
enjoyed your vids, im currently planning on overvolting a mobility scooter, looking for tips found your stuff, iv got a 60v 20a cheapo motor controller making its way to me from china, it will probably break, (im good at killing circuit boards) i might just go direct battery to motor with a big push button, if i can think of an easy soft start widget i might investigate if i feel it needs it,, going to order batterys soon, when i decide on voltage, 48 or 60, ps for big wire soldering a 100w iron is faster so less heat creeps along metal parts melting distant plastic.
sounds like a pretty sick project! yeah, you gotta watch out if you try and direct wire it - high current DC tends to spark a lot on your switch contacts and weld the switch shut, pitching you into the nearest fence/bush/car.
yeah, I used to have a 60W iron but the blasted thing died! gotta save up for a Hakko I reckon.
too much current. will eventually fry the entire circuit, next are those skinny wires and eventually catches fire. I have 4- 12v/ 9A sla on mine (52 v max) and I've changes all my wiring from battery to 3 switches to 14 gauge wires because they were getting very hot. I don't use any electronic control, just a high amp momentary push button, an emergency cut off switch right next to.it in case the high current fries the push button stuck (wbat happened to you happened to me as well and I had to pull the brakes to just stop the motor) and the main switch at the bottom. 11 tooth sprocket kn motor and a 47 tooth at the back wheels. it pulls very strong on 36v and even more now at 48v and topping at 32mph vs 25 on 36v. I don't think I want to go any faster than this setup, way too dangerous.
Will be interesting to see what happens next, absolutely. Methinks the viewing public would love to see a good bit of fire... ;)
TK, would you ever consider doing a series of videos on building an affordable yet powerful electric scooter instead of modifying a stock e-scooter? Thanks for the videos. Liked & subscribed.
celticwolff I certainly would. perhaps down the track when I have some welding gear and somewhere to use it. thanks for watching!
TK hey, can I have the link to those battery's and the PCB board to buy?
The battery management system is something /like/ this - this may not be the exact one. eBay hardware is pretty changeable month to month.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Batterie-Protection-BMS-PCB-Board-Balance-Pour-10S-36V-40A-Li-ion-Lithium-Cell-/401176707957?hash=item5d67fec375:g:RtsAAOSwHoFXvsIG
The batteries were something like these Zippy units from Hobbyking, I think. You might wanna shop around for 5S packs though, see what you like in terms of price, performance and size. hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-8000mah-5s1p-30c.html
I can't guarantee these are the exact parts I used but they're in the ballpark.
Love the video / and the accent is nice :)
Steven Verespey thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it :D
Plz try to connect motor and batteries directly, without speed controller. Use just a on/off switch!
Велес Поляновский that's awful for driveability I'm afraid
change the fet for a high power fet and a good heatsink.
Watch on for exactly that!
Do you think that VESC’s are good, or do you think that regular esc’s are fine?
I've heard they're good!
TK my lovely check Gate engineering intrigued brother resoldering heat travel problem is easily solved heat sink crocodile clips a pair of pliers help tight with elastic bands anything like that it's an aerospace technique that's my cheeky job can't say anymore because it's secret military development and all but it is apprentice level stuff but it works and absolute truth I soldered The Cube within a cube centred with other legs of copper wire without the heat sinks I used electrical crocodile clips everytime I would have touched a single joint off shoulder the heat would travel and melt every joint with the heat sinks I managed to create this construction it looks pretty cool anyway heat sinks just beyond each side of the joint you are trying to create even helps keep the desired heat on that joint and it takes even better let me know if this helps
PS loving your helpful clips thank you from the UK brother
PPS I was out in Woomera for a good long while if you get me say no more good luck
So what's the max AH batteries we can put in this? Do the cells get bigger on size, as the 2 7ah ones I'm using are tight as it is. So if I got some 12AH, will the dimensions be the same or bigger?
Bigger capacity means bigger batteries, yes, for batteries using the same technology.
That’s why so many of us switch to lithium instead of staying with lead acid batteries like the stock ones. Lithium batteries can store much more energy in less weight and less space than lead acid.
use 48v battery and 48v 2000w motorcontroler.
Would be good! $$$ thob
Is it possible to change out the stock batteries on my brand new razor e300 to two 12 Volt 15Ah lithium ? What I have to change anything else out? I’m just looking for a longer drive time
Michael Pinela you could probably do that! You might have issues if the lithiums are a higher voltage when fully charged and trip the overvolt protection but it seems worth a shot, and you can always disable the relay.
Why 5s not 4 or 6 - any particular reason?
We’re already pushing the motor by overvolting it, 12S would be too much. 8S wouldn’t be as fast, though. 10S is a nice sweet spot.
I know this was 6years ago but im trying to replicate this on my e300 and i wanna know the parts list nothing on this is listed anyone got any leads
Just updated the list, thanks for watching!
@@WhatUpTKHere thanks dude!
A good flux and temperature controlled Iron would help TK ;)
Love this whole process that you've worked out! I was wondering if you could go a little more in depth on to exactly how you wired the bms with the two batteries in series. I'm trying to do my own build with lipos and don't want to flash bang my batteries. Specifically the sense wires to the bms in series. Thanks keep it up
Yeah, it's pretty scary. I go over it obviously in the video and also in the accompanying post here - hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt/log/43836-the-big-battery-swap
That said, I would STRONGLY advise you against mucking around with this until you truly, definitively understand what you're doing. Unfortunately mistakes with lithium batteries almost always lead to fires. In your early days, experiment only outside in an area away from all flammable materials - work outside on a concrete surface, for example, and be ready to run away if things start going wrong (not that you'll always have time if you screw up really badly). Don't store your modified lithium-powered creations inside until you're fully 100% confident they won't burn your house down.
Don't take this as advice not to try - I highly recommend hacking and making, it's great fun. Just make sure you get the knowledge and experience you need to do it safely. :)
I realise that my post doesn't actually go through the steps in detail. Try this guide - www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/connecting-a-bms-quick-guide-how-to/6122
I'm having the same issues any fixes for sure yet?
If you wanna run 36V properly, get a 36V motor and speed controller.
You can overvolt the stock stuff but it burns out pretty quick dragging an adult man around
Also you may find the rest of the episodes helpful
Which video do you talk about teeth?
Hey question
I believe my fet has failed in my controller. TK why did you only modify the left mosfet and not the right one? Thanks
There’s only one MOSFET, The other one is a diode pack, it’s just in the same type of package.
What Up TK Here hey thanks for replying!!
Cool to know. I also blew my mosfet after deregulating the controller.
I like the job you do with to mosfets in parallel. My next question is, how did you secure the diode pack back to the heat sink? Or is it less of a concern for heat than the mosfet?
Thanks TK. Love the videos!!
@@grandtheftauto1233 Yeah the diode pack isn't a big concern, I think I just used the original screw or maybe I just left it.
What Up TK Here sweet dude thanks for the tip. I plan to install the additional mosfet to the left of the original and utilize some crafty pcb trimming. Hope to have a clean build and draw some amps without popping 😎 just until I get a custom controller
Hello sir
i wanna make an E scooter i have problem with speed control and the sprocket
i have a DC motor model MY 6812 100w 12v and it has a sprocket 1.5cm
and on the whhel i have 5.7cm
battry is 11.1 v 3300amp
i used 2 transistor IRFZ44n for driving
but when i go on half throttle transistors will get hot
can you help me to resole this problem?
Hi!
I’d suggest looking at existing brushed motor controller designs, and comparing them to your own to figure out where you’re going wrong. :)
@@WhatUpTKHere do you know any name or model of speed controll?
do you think any problem with 1.5 cm sprocket and 5.7 cm? should i change them?
@@raspberryeditingvideo4331 hard to say if the sprocket is an issue.
Do your research, you should be able to find a suitable brushed motor speed controller, or ESC, online.
Where did you get those batteries from I’m trying to do a upgrade on my scooter as well
They’re Hobbyking batteries!
Link to battery and battery Mangement system?
I can't find a single video that starts with a stock e300 and successfully upgrades it to 36v. How the heck do I do this?
Haha, so pretty much you gotta replace the motor and speed controller. You can try and cheat and overvolt the stock parts, but they blow up pretty quick.
A lot of people act like you can do it, and end their videos before they admit their motor melted after just 5km.
@@WhatUpTKHere dang. I was hoping the motor could stay - thinking the controller would protect it!
Again use lithium ion not lithium po you can use the original controlor and motor ( working on a video of how to do it)
What is size motor is that.
Stock in this episode!
Great videos. Can you add an inline fuse??
Keep watching the series to find out ;D
@@WhatUpTKHere i am and will. I have a similar project started.
HEY BRO ITS VERY SOFT METAL ÙSE A SHARP KNIFE TO WIDDLE IT DOWN SO IT WILL GO ON ALL THE WAY DISCONECT UR FUSE BEFOR TRYING TO WITTLE IMPOSABLE TO DO WITH OUT ARKING
Arcing is bad!
so how exactly do u connect the bms to the controller with the xt90s
I put an XT90 connector on the controller, after cutting off the connector that used to go to the lead acid batteries. :)
Thanks
Can you use other types of batteries so you dont need a bms? if so what can i use?
You could use three 12V lead acid batteries but they're a total snoozefest. Lithium's the best battery tech out for big power applications.
Aight thanks tk
Np! :)
Lol damn I'm surprised that BMS didn't come with a programmer
Super basic!
Help! about the Razor Pocket Mod electric scooters. that goes 15mph and comes with 7ah battery. Will upgrading it to a 12ah frie the controller or something inside? for the Razor Pocket Mod.
megyn Kelly1 higher capacity batteries won't do damage as long as they're the same voltage.
So what's the max AH batteries we can put in this? Do the cells get bigger on size, as the 2 7ah ones I'm using are tight as it is. So if I got some 12AH, will the dimensions be the same or bigger?
Build your packs out of 18650’s buy you an automotive battery charger from wall mart... (a new modern (smart) charger and throw that damn BMS AWAY!
Not sure I’d want to use an automotive lead acid charger with LiPos.
What’s your beef with the BMS?
6:20 cover the plastic in lip balm
Huh! Is that actually a thing?! Does the wax protect the plastic somehow?
How do you charge the battery’s without taking them out?
Wiziki using the charger @ 9:28, it plugs into the original charge port on the scooter which is hooked up to the BMS.
TK how many amps did yours have? All I can find is 2.5A, and I don’t think that’s enough.
Wiziki it's not. I used a 30A BMS but I hacked the current limiter in later episodes.
TK I mean the actual lithium scooter charger from eBay (that you plug into your scooter to charge). All I can find is from 2.5-5A
Wiziki oh yeah, that's fine. You can't safely charge faster than 1-2C anyway (C being the capacity of the battery in Ah).
can someone explain me the thing with the BMS?
Gonen levy lithiums require careful control of voltage and charging - the BMS handles this :)
TK that i understand, but all the thing with the wires i cant understand
Ah yep. It's all about making a connection to the individual cells in a lithium pack.
As they can be quite dangerous, I'd suggest learning more about electronics and how rechargable batteries work before setting out to wire your own up. Plenty of great resources out there, just google about battery management systems and so on! :)
So much effort when you could have just bought a $30 (US) 36/48v E-Bike speedcontroller and had done with it.
Weary Man Certainly could have. But it would have been physically larger and I would have learned precisely nothing.
There are channels you can watch where people just glue together bits off eBay. This isn't one of them.
Ooh so that's why people say their controllers are fried when they upgrading the speed of their scooter. It's the Speedcontroller 36/48v thingy huh. didn't know about those. now i learn thanks to you. But but Will upgrading a 12Ah battery from a 7Ah factory battery burn or fry the Razor scooters? for instance a Razor Pocket Mod which i am interested in buying one. but need to know if it will fry/burn the controllers or something in the scooter. I just want to keep it 24v. not 36. 12Ah be ok?
What Up TK Here I loved your video exactly for this reason.
Ur funny tk haha like ur videos
Thank you!
Can I shove these in an e100?
the brake is a kill switch,you could have just pulled that mate
david woodward when the transistor fails, it doesn't matter if the scooter tries to turn the transistor off. With the relay also disabled as I did here, there's nothing the speed controller can do to stop the current flow, the transistor goes short circuit and dumps full battery voltage to the motor.
right i see,thanks for enlightening me..all this electrictrickery is the devils work to me! :)...ive got one of these,what would you recommend to do with out spending loads of money(ive put two 12v 7ah extra batteries on it)to improve its performance on hills as they do die off alot...ive basically bought one for getting to the pub on holiday in the UK and its really hilly where we stay.they have a 280w motor in as standard.what about putting a 500w in instead?would i need to change anything else like the speed controller unit mate?even the throttle?
Yeah, so the method I've taken is a bit of a mad scientist approach - maxing out what's already there and doing overly complicated mods to try and keep it alive.
An easier approach might be looking at one of the 36V overvolt kits on eBay. I haven't used one, but some people report good results initially. I haven't heard a lot of reports on the longevity - it is possible to destroy the motor at 36V if you push it hard, but most people using these setups stick with lead acid batteries which aren't as much of a motor killer as lithiums are with their high current delivery capability.
There'll be more to come in this series - the next video will be a bit of a guide on how to approach a high performance build with less intricate tinkering. Expect that out before the end of the year. :)
thanks very much for the advice,i think ill give that a go.i will let you know how i get on if you like...hey,as im a novice at all this elastictrickery,would you mind if its not too much trouble put a link to one of these kits on ebay in a reply thanks.just so i dont get the wrong one...hey,i look forward to seeing your up and coming video.its all good fun!! :) cheers,david
ive had a quick look,all i could find was a charger for the kit ,i think i need some help!haha
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Razor-Scooter-36-volt-charger-36v-Overvolt-kit-charger-/372055778832?epid=1553183178&hash=item56a040a610:g:F8oAAOSw0W5Z5Wch
where do i get those batteries??
Hobby king!
@@WhatUpTKHere found them!!!! damm good price too. o_O
@@WhatUpTKHere however im a bit in question about the matter. the ones i found are 7.2v. is that what you're using?? if so that's only 14.4V. that doesn't seem nearly enough to get some good throttle on the scooter. most of the big scooter mods are going for serious overvoltage. 42-48V most of what i seen. the ones i seen breaking 35MPH are the crazy 48V ones using stock motors, and a variable throttle grip.
-also i got some electric DC motors im thinking about trying. i picked up a pair of DC weedeaters. 18.2V battery packs on each. i figured since they're really high RPM, a weed eater motor might be better than the little DC motor that comes stock-what do you think??
I also got an electric mower that requires 24V to mow the lawn, but no clue on the amperage, but seems to me if i could get that lawn mower motor running wiht adequate V i could get some serious speed on my build. any thoughts on those on those motors??
@@MTRX2011 Yep, so I went with two 5S packs for a total of 10 cells (~36V). You've gotta use the tools on the site to filter for the bigger packs.
How many watts is your scooter
Stock, I think 200 or 300W, but overvolting ups that significantly
+TK I saw it worked until the speed controller failed. Only if it didn't fail then it would a been awesome and I bet take off would be quick.
And I think the company that makes the razor e300 should have the battery's you had in your scooter lol
+Mehtao Burrell haha, I definitely agree with you!
Mehtao Burrell ,
Christa Ferrier yeah
Can you do mine?
Haha, I'm sure you can figure something out! Consider an EBay upgrade kit like I explore in later episodes :)
14:12 hahahaha. that was great
hahaha. it always gets sketchy when you blow a FET!
TK glad it happened at a safe speed!
All you had to do is buy a 48v speed controller
Wefki Saleh and I'd have learned nothing, and made no video! Also that makes no sense for a 36V battery setup.
What Up TK Here oh ok well I'm running mine off of 48v I didn't notice but the 36 v speed controller is a couple bucks less on eBay and it will run just right... plug and play ... I'm running a ezip 1000 and upgraded to 48 v and took the 36 v off the ezip 1000 and put it in my ezip 4.5 which runs off 24 volts and the power is good ... so all that to say just order yourself a 36v speed controller and you will be good
Wefki Saleh yeah, if you follow along the later episodes you'll see where I've experimented with a variety of setups. Sounds like you've got some fun builds at home!
I will follow you .. and yes I started off with rc car then I started over volting my kids power wheels (that was very fun lol ) then I started looking up scooters I purchased the ezip1000 for 25$ and it's my favorite I hope to learn a few things off your videos your a funny and educational dude ..Keep up the good work
I like your videos and you seem very informed, but everything you do breaks or doesn’t work. Are you going for comedy. I feel like you should have everything working
Jonathan Walker hahahaha. All part of the process mate! If I wanted to, I could go right out and buy a matched motor and speed controller and batteries and management system and they'd work and wouldn't that be dandy! But nothing would be learned and it would cost more than trying to dick about with little hacks and bodging in beefy transistors.
You're more than welcome to do what you want with your scooter and I bet you'll get it perfect first time! ;)
Some channels choose to show you just the end result and hide the missteps and mistakes along the way; I'm not about that.
If you're looking for comedy, go check out my latest upload - Easter video. ;D
shittiest electric scooter