Is your GVM missing the most important part?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 เม.ย. 2024
- Are you getting the full potential of your GVM including adequate or sufficient axle load? Or is it just numbers?
This video is all about the misinformation around ensuring your GVM has adequate axle loading. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 70 | คู่เอก "โฟกัส vs สเตฟาน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_fVieQ89DRQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I been saying this for a long time. Common sense, but seem you just need a new license (LT HR) and it solves everyone’s problems. It’s all about set up. Everyone can tow safety with the right gear. Thanks for sharing!
Boy ; it would be swell if you fellas made the decision to tackle the Jeep ( specifically, a 6x6 Gladiator ).
Thanks, for the suspension insight. 🍺
I’ve given up worrying about it all, it won’t be long nothing will be legal
But what this man says makes sense in a way you won't break your car by being silly with all the bits a pieces that obviously aren't needed
So glad we went with the Jmacx 4200 electric Alphas
On what?
@@ausguy4385300 series
@@ausguy4385GX 300 series
Great video. Any word on the GCM being increased?
I wish jmacx would do a coil conversion and gvm upgrade for the older 6 cylinder 79 series cruisers
300 series and Prado is always lifted higher in rear so when weight is added to rear it doesn’t actually lift front it levels and with correct springs also to take load
I’ve never seen axle load on diffs have any issues
It might not lift the front, but it still lightens the load on the front wheels
Do you have a kit for post rego for a 200 series with atleast 4.2t GVM with GCM upgrade in SA yet?
Yes we do! Jacksons 4x4 would be your closest facility to install. So contact them if you are interested and they can give you all the details
GVM upgrades don't make sense ! When you upgrade the suspension and axle, does the following get upgraded brakes, transmission, transmission cooler, transmission torque converter (or clutch), replace the CV's with something thicker, install a larger intercooler, install a larger radiator, bore out the cylinders to increase engine size, increase the turbo size, install a larger fuel tank, after diff centre, diff housing with cooling fins, re-enforce the chassis and adjust the tuning of both of the engine and transmissions if auto ? Basically the entire vehicle needs to be upgraded to make it useful ... Perhaps carry less stuff or start looking into a light rigid truck license !
No cars and 4 wds are built much stronger than they are rated for, its like a safety net for them, if they were running on a knife edge all the time they would be unreliable…
@@twooccystraps6458 they are all light vehicles , a Ute or Wagon rated at 3000 or 3500 kg is absolutely not designed to tow that constantly , and it's not suitable to tow that constantly at speed over bad conditions like corrugated roads .. it's obviously not desired to to that constantly just by looking at the ride height when it's loaded up on stock suspension
On any kind of rough road you should reduce your maximum load capacity by - good 30%
You can upgrade suspension and do a re tune and bigger intercoolers etc but the wear and tear are going to be dramatically increased.. and the more you increase the load the wear will exponentially increase on just about every component
The extra load and the extra power of the tune stack on top of each other to expedite wear
For 1 KW extra output your creating about 2KW of extra heat (internal combustion is usually 30-35% efficient for a diesel) most of that goes out the radiator, with a significant amount of heat in the exhaust system and also driveline
The best approach is to spend the money on the lightest possible trailer and gear along with brining along minimal stuff that's needed , not stuff that's barely used
A lighter setup is more capable, better on fuel more reliable , less wear, less maintenance and easier and less fatigue for the driver !