Watching the face plate snap back into place is so amazing! Must've been a great feeling knowing that it worked so well when you first tested it. A beautiful piece sir! Well done and I especially love the red acrylic piece for the light on the fin. So good!
The cut away is GREAT. Super smart. I’ve got a MASSIVE head and just bought a giant 3D printer I’m hoping to make helmets on, so it’s nice to know that that option exists when I do one.
Love it! I don’t think I’ll add the face off mod, but I might depending on the size. Can you also put in where you got the red acrylic and the vent stuff? Thank you!
Dan im in the process of designing a lightsaber and for a part of the emitter ive decided to use graphite powder to make it look like it's made of metal, as the whole thing will 3d printed. I've decided to use graphite powder because I like the look of it and it has the right kind of gunmetal grey im looking for but I've never used it. Could you give me any tips on using it ? Paint to use ,wether to use a primer and so on thanks . When I've finished it il show you some photos or a video of it.
I've never used it, but I know Bill Doran over at Punished Props Academy did a whole video on it with Wonder Woman's sword, so check that out. Always use a primer, get it nice and smooth by sanding it (60-80 grit) then use a plastic primer. Sand and repeat up the grits until smooth. You'll want to use a gloss black as a base colour, make sure this is clean and even as it is what gives the look of metal. Then use a cotton swab to apply the powder. I think leaving it unsealed after that is best, and you can always touch up the powder finish
Great videos. I'm glad to see you like starwars. We are in search for star wars lovers for our may month shows. If you would be interested in joining us some Sunday or Tuesday at 9pm EST we would love to have you on the show!
I paid £22.90 on ebay for a 400ml tube, it'll last a while for spot filling and light sculpting. For full on 3d print line filling I'd get a 'bondo' type car filler from somewhere like halfords. The green acryl is good cause it doesn't need a kicker, just goes off by itself. Wood filler I find too grainy on plastic.
looks great! Given that you do this sort of project quite a lot have you ever looked into getting a 3D printer? Although the upfront cost is a lot, its definitely worth it in the long run and there are many benefits like being able to scale things to fit you perfectly (without having to do additional mods like face off) - it is a lot more work to get a piece sanded and finished but once you get your process nailed down it wont normally take more than a couple of days
I've had a Prusa i3mk2s for a few years, but mainly use it for little bits and pieces. I generally like having cast resin pieces for big props as they are stronger and less prone to warping. Having said that I am working on something bigger which I've just started printing which should be a fun project 🙂
3D prints are resized to fit a body, so there is no need for chopping. But you prefer molds or something, if I'm remembering correctly. Personally, I would like the helmet slightly bigger than chopped.
@@evoFTMFW There are some that still have the neck seal and can put it on their heads and it still looks good as they size up the rest of the armor as well. With 3D programs you can scale the armor to fit you and to look good. Personally I would make the neck seal a type of plastic rubber.
@@CameronKiesser if you can fit it on your head as one piece it’s too big. Period. If you’ve scaled the entire armor up to match it’s likely your entire suit looks like trash. This isn’t how these are supposed to fit as they were never a real life helmet so never had to actually fit over an actors head.
Its prettt cool how its a kit, especily because you can make your own, or you could do baiec design, you can even do phase one captain rex.
Watching the face plate snap back into place is so amazing! Must've been a great feeling knowing that it worked so well when you first tested it. A beautiful piece sir! Well done and I especially love the red acrylic piece for the light on the fin. So good!
The cut away is GREAT. Super smart. I’ve got a MASSIVE head and just bought a giant 3D printer I’m hoping to make helmets on, so it’s nice to know that that option exists when I do one.
That will be cool. Would be even better if it was modelled that way too! Print the face or back separate with space already for magnets
Thank you for making this. i was super intimidated about having to do a face off on my phase 2 but you made it look so easy. thank you
Great job! Always good to watch you build something.
Thank you sir! 🙌🏻
Awsome work, my favorite clone helment version, you are really great, keep up the amazing work.
Thank you!
Great work. You got some balls cutting the face of the helmet. I feel inspired to make one now
Done a few of them now, can get it fairly clean.....just takes a while 😄 go for it!
Love it! I don’t think I’ll add the face off mod, but I might depending on the size. Can you also put in where you got the red acrylic and the vent stuff? Thank you!
Well done! 3D printed my Phase 1 a while ago, but need to find the time to paint it
I'm always fighting the weather when I paint 😄
Incredible work
The Senate approves of all your actions!
A surprise I'm sure, but a welcome one 😉
That is fabulous, well done. Thanks for another cool video.
This looks amazing! Super cool!
Dan im in the process of designing a lightsaber and for a part of the emitter ive decided to use graphite powder to make it look like it's made of metal, as the whole thing will 3d printed.
I've decided to use graphite powder because I like the look of it and it has the right kind of gunmetal grey im looking for but I've never used it. Could you give me any tips on using it ? Paint to use ,wether to use a primer and so on thanks . When I've finished it il show you some photos or a video of it.
I've never used it, but I know Bill Doran over at Punished Props Academy did a whole video on it with Wonder Woman's sword, so check that out.
Always use a primer, get it nice and smooth by sanding it (60-80 grit) then use a plastic primer. Sand and repeat up the grits until smooth. You'll want to use a gloss black as a base colour, make sure this is clean and even as it is what gives the look of metal. Then use a cotton swab to apply the powder. I think leaving it unsealed after that is best, and you can always touch up the powder finish
@@BucketheadStudios Thanks for the advice.
It looks great fantastic work
Very cool and nice looking helmet. Magnets are awesome aint they?
Great videos. I'm glad to see you like starwars. We are in search for star wars lovers for our may month shows. If you would be interested in joining us some Sunday or Tuesday at 9pm EST we would love to have you on the show!
You should add 212th markings so it can go with your armor rather than making a new kit.
Great video, was only looking at that wood filler the other day for 3d prints, how easy is it to work with?
Not great tbh, since this I have got 3m Acryl Green Spot putty which is so much better
@@BucketheadStudios only problem with that is I don't want t to pay over the odds for shipping from America
I paid £22.90 on ebay for a 400ml tube, it'll last a while for spot filling and light sculpting. For full on 3d print line filling I'd get a 'bondo' type car filler from somewhere like halfords. The green acryl is good cause it doesn't need a kicker, just goes off by itself. Wood filler I find too grainy on plastic.
Great video and great build! GG
looks great! Given that you do this sort of project quite a lot have you ever looked into getting a 3D printer? Although the upfront cost is a lot, its definitely worth it in the long run and there are many benefits like being able to scale things to fit you perfectly (without having to do additional mods like face off) - it is a lot more work to get a piece sanded and finished but once you get your process nailed down it wont normally take more than a couple of days
I've had a Prusa i3mk2s for a few years, but mainly use it for little bits and pieces. I generally like having cast resin pieces for big props as they are stronger and less prone to warping. Having said that I am working on something bigger which I've just started printing which should be a fun project 🙂
@@BucketheadStudios ah ok - what material do you normally print out of?
where'd you get the saw blade?
They are hobby saw blades, amazon carry them under Modelcraft # 15 Keyhole Saw Blades
love the channel!
Thank you 🙂
Sick!
3D prints are resized to fit a body, so there is no need for chopping. But you prefer molds or something, if I'm remembering correctly. Personally, I would like the helmet slightly bigger than chopped.
Bigger helmets look like crap when worn. Clone helmets were never designed to fit over a head. They will always have a cutaway.
@@evoFTMFW There are some that still have the neck seal and can put it on their heads and it still looks good as they size up the rest of the armor as well. With 3D programs you can scale the armor to fit you and to look good.
Personally I would make the neck seal a type of plastic rubber.
@@CameronKiesser if you can fit it on your head as one piece it’s too big. Period. If you’ve scaled the entire armor up to match it’s likely your entire suit looks like trash. This isn’t how these are supposed to fit as they were never a real life helmet so never had to actually fit over an actors head.
Cheese
Looks like crap tbh