Hello, thanks for your video, I learned a lot, but I have a question, after changing the coolant, there may be air left in a certain part of the pipe, where is the valve to discharge the air, I saw some cars have a bleed valve next to the expansion tank, but I can't find it on the Focus car, do you know where it is or how to solve the problem of air being trapped in the pipe? I think this is very important, thank you
There's no bleed-valve on these engines, they self-bleed. You shouldn't have a problem, just watch the tank level over the first few hundred km of driving.
In this video at 17 seconds into it you see the top of a metal pipe with a valve in it between the engine and the screen wash resorvoir what is that for?
Because if you've flushed the system with water beforehand, you don't know exactly how much water is in there. But you do control how much concentrate you put in.
Hi Craig your videos are really good I have changed the thermostat on a ford Mondeo 1800 sci petrol which is chain driven as you know. I tried to change the water pump but cant for the life of me get it off because of the awkward location and using a 40cm long pair of water pump pliers its barely moves it, do they use an extractor of some sort? could you please offer some advise? dave
Hi Craig! I have a question about the Mondeo engine bay. Just to the right of the screen wash filler cap and the 2 hoses that attach the coolant tank, there is a metal pipe sticking up. Mine has a black screw cap on it, but on the video yours doesn't. Can you tell me what this pipe is for? I can't work it out. My Mondeo Mk3 has had no heat since the radiator was changed 2 years ago and I'm clutching at straws trying to work out what it could be before I take it to the garage to be fixed......
The pipe is one of the aircon valves. If you have no heat it's probably a stuck-open thermostat, they're bad designs and tend to break physically. Assuming your radiator was hooked up correctly of course. Here's about the stat if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/vooZyEI2Il4/w-d-xo.html
@@CraigsDIY After I've added coolant. The temp gauge is getting to operating temp in about 10 minutes or so. Even after running for 15 mins it's still blowing cold.
hello , congratulations for the video very useful for emptying the cooling circuit. A question about the ODB2 sensor you are using, what type and can you share a video for the model Ford Mondeo MK3 gasoline . Thank you for your reply
friend i have a ford focus 2008,,,duratec HE,, petrol,it was too cold today,i start the car but power stearing was not working,,,after i did near abt 50km its started to work,,,,i want to know it has hydraulic or electronic power stearing?,,bcas i dont c any liquid container,,,,,,,,,,thnx
It's hydraulic, the pump & container is at the front top of the engine with the yellow steering wheel icon. See here th-cam.com/video/YW08WT8GyNU/w-d-xo.html - although it sounds like you have a major problem, pump failure maybe, or loss of fluid.
Well the Ford spec is to replace every 10 years, and coolant manufacturers tend to rate their own product for less than that e.g. 7 or 8 years. More usually you will have no choice because in that period a water pump or hose or something else will fail and need replacing.
I have a vid on the stat: th-cam.com/video/vooZyEI2Il4/w-d-xo.html | However, cooling fan not turning off may not be the stat. They usually fail open not closed. 1stly is your air-con off, as fan will stay on always with AC. 2ndly check your coolant temp to check the temperature (not going over 105 deg C) and that's it's a sensible figure from the sensor.
Hi Craig. Thanks for a very comprehensive instructional video! You're making my life a lot easier here! I ran into a bit of an odd problem when I tried doing this. I flushed the system a few times, letting it all run out of the hole in the bottom there; tightened the rubber screw; but as I was filling the antifreeze into the expansion tank, it filled up before I got 4 litres down there. Should I have to turn on the engine to get the system to pull the liquid out of the tank each time I pour a little liquid in there? (which worked partially, but I still couldn't get all 4 litres down there) Thanks for your time!
The pump needs to run and circulate liquid a bit before all the air will make its way to the top. The Ford cooling system is supposed to be self-bleeding. Just run the engine for a while, drive the car even (but keep a close eye on temp gauge), and see if the level drops. If it doesn't and the engine remains properly cooled then the system is probably full. It's possible you didn't drain enough; check you removed the expansion tank cap while draining for instance.
The fact is that using the demonstrated method, you drain the antifreeze only from the radiator, expansion tank, but not from the cylinder block. There is a drain hole on the cylinder block itself, but it will not allow the block to be completely drained. The video shows that when washing with water, the engine is not warmed up until the thermostat opens. This prevents the newly filled water from mixing with the antifreeze of the closed small circuit. In my opinion this is not the right approach. It is necessary to warm up the engine and let it run with the thermostat open, and flush it using this method several times - then there will be clean water in the entire system. Then, on a cold engine, drain 4 liters from the system (which is essentially water) and add 4 liters of concentrate.
It might be hard to see, check the lower RH corner, look for the indented cross. If there's really nothing you'd have to take off the lower hose, pair of vice grips on the clip and a hot air gun to warm the rubber up.
Hi, can i add also 50/50 coolant and distilled water here in Europe where we -18C in winter times? Or can I just put full coolant? thx for ur reply Craig.
That's cold - but 50/50 is still good down to at least -35 deg C. You actually get maximum anti-freeze effect at about 66% coolant, which will supposedly manage down to under -50 C. The effectiveness actually decreases at higher concentrations - your bottle of 100% coolant concentrate will apparently start to freeze at about -15 C! Additionally Ford, for one, specify concentrate to remain between 40 and 60%. So by all means go to 60% if you like but no higher.
But surely you can appreciate that vehicle technology isn't the same as 47 years ago?! I've been in the trade 20 years and 90% of the practices/procedures I would have followed THEN would be outdated now... You are reference procedures carried out on cars made in the late 60s early 70s and, by your implication, following the same processes - that just seems ridiculous to me. Some people enjoy carrying out DIY maintenance and like to do this type of job when required to hopefully avoid potential damage to other components. For you to just dismiss that as 'cars aren't worth the expense after 10 years' is nonsense.
There is no radiator cap on these systems. If you mean the coolant tank cap, maybe, but you're more likely to end up needing to replace the entire tank as they tend to crack with age.
Great video. But can I just point one thing out which could cause a costly repair. You mentioned different colour coolants. Just to clay you must not use the wrong colour coolant and definitely do not mix coolants. There are three types, neither can be mixed and doing so will crest a chemical reaction, which turns the liquid into a gel, clogging up the small pipes, pump etc. Causing catastrophic failing of the engine !!
Tell me how to change the oil level in the engine on Ford Mondeo 3 2.0 gasoline Duratec HE CJBB 2003 ?
Hello, thanks for your video, I learned a lot, but I have a question, after changing the coolant, there may be air left in a certain part of the pipe, where is the valve to discharge the air, I saw some cars have a bleed valve next to the expansion tank, but I can't find it on the Focus car, do you know where it is or how to solve the problem of air being trapped in the pipe? I think this is very important, thank you
There's no bleed-valve on these engines, they self-bleed. You shouldn't have a problem, just watch the tank level over the first few hundred km of driving.
Fantastic video. Thanks for uploading.
So helpful, going to give this a go myself. Wish me luck!
In this video at 17 seconds into it you see the top of a metal pipe with a valve in it between the engine and the screen wash resorvoir what is that for?
Air con.
Super tare mai revino si cu alte informații MULȚUMESC
Hi, why dont u add coolant by diluting 50/50 water before. I know that concentrate coolant is harmfull for engine and their some specific parts?
Because if you've flushed the system with water beforehand, you don't know exactly how much water is in there. But you do control how much concentrate you put in.
Super video. Thanks
Hi Craig your videos are really good I have changed the thermostat on a ford Mondeo 1800 sci petrol which is chain driven as you know. I tried to change the water pump but cant for the life of me get it off because of the awkward location and using a 40cm long pair of water pump pliers its barely moves it, do they use an extractor of some sort? could you please offer some advise? dave
Thanks for the video!
Any idea if this is the same theory for the 2.2tdci in the same Mondeo?
Hi Craig! I have a question about the Mondeo engine bay. Just to the right of the screen wash filler cap and the 2 hoses that attach the coolant tank, there is a metal pipe sticking up. Mine has a black screw cap on it, but on the video yours doesn't. Can you tell me what this pipe is for? I can't work it out. My Mondeo Mk3 has had no heat since the radiator was changed 2 years ago and I'm clutching at straws trying to work out what it could be before I take it to the garage to be fixed......
The pipe is one of the aircon valves. If you have no heat it's probably a stuck-open thermostat, they're bad designs and tend to break physically. Assuming your radiator was hooked up correctly of course. Here's about the stat if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/vooZyEI2Il4/w-d-xo.html
Great! Thanks Craig!
Hey Craig, I've done this procedure and when I go to run the car all I'm getting from the AC is cold air. Any idea why? I have a 2002 Mondeo
Do you mean during or after. Have you bled it (run the engine long enough?) What temperature is the CHT getting up to and how quickly.
@@CraigsDIY After I've added coolant. The temp gauge is getting to operating temp in about 10 minutes or so. Even after running for 15 mins it's still blowing cold.
@@CraigsDIY unless I've bled it wrong? I assumed my car was self bleeding like this one
hello , congratulations for the video very useful for emptying the cooling circuit. A question about the ODB2 sensor you are using, what type and can you share a video for the model Ford Mondeo MK3 gasoline . Thank you for your reply
+Stephane Vincent It's a "vgate" from eBay, about $20. I use it with Android app "Forscan" for Ford & Mazda. I will do a review on it sometime.
th-cam.com/video/KdvnPC204zU/w-d-xo.html
friend i have a ford focus 2008,,,duratec HE,, petrol,it was too cold today,i start the car but power stearing was not working,,,after i did near abt 50km its started to work,,,,i want to know it has hydraulic or electronic power stearing?,,bcas i dont c any liquid container,,,,,,,,,,thnx
It's hydraulic, the pump & container is at the front top of the engine with the yellow steering wheel icon. See here th-cam.com/video/YW08WT8GyNU/w-d-xo.html - although it sounds like you have a major problem, pump failure maybe, or loss of fluid.
Tnx friend
Thanks for an excellent HowTo. My question here is, why changing longlife coolant (used in the MK3 as far as I know) at all? Is it just to be sure?
Well the Ford spec is to replace every 10 years, and coolant manufacturers tend to rate their own product for less than that e.g. 7 or 8 years. More usually you will have no choice because in that period a water pump or hose or something else will fail and need replacing.
Do you have to change it
Heloo, how to know in the first place is a thermostat or not. My cooling fan wont turn off.
I have a vid on the stat: th-cam.com/video/vooZyEI2Il4/w-d-xo.html | However, cooling fan not turning off may not be the stat. They usually fail open not closed. 1stly is your air-con off, as fan will stay on always with AC. 2ndly check your coolant temp to check the temperature (not going over 105 deg C) and that's it's a sensible figure from the sensor.
Hi Craig. Thanks for a very comprehensive instructional video! You're making my life a lot easier here!
I ran into a bit of an odd problem when I tried doing this. I flushed the system a few times, letting it all run out of the hole in the bottom there; tightened the rubber screw; but as I was filling the antifreeze into the expansion tank, it filled up before I got 4 litres down there. Should I have to turn on the engine to get the system to pull the liquid out of the tank each time I pour a little liquid in there? (which worked partially, but I still couldn't get all 4 litres down there)
Thanks for your time!
The pump needs to run and circulate liquid a bit before all the air will make its way to the top. The Ford cooling system is supposed to be self-bleeding. Just run the engine for a while, drive the car even (but keep a close eye on temp gauge), and see if the level drops. If it doesn't and the engine remains properly cooled then the system is probably full. It's possible you didn't drain enough; check you removed the expansion tank cap while draining for instance.
The fact is that using the demonstrated method, you drain the antifreeze only from the radiator, expansion tank, but not from the cylinder block. There is a drain hole on the cylinder block itself, but it will not allow the block to be completely drained. The video shows that when washing with water, the engine is not warmed up until the thermostat opens. This prevents the newly filled water from mixing with the antifreeze of the closed small circuit. In my opinion this is not the right approach. It is necessary to warm up the engine and let it run with the thermostat open, and flush it using this method several times - then there will be clean water in the entire system. Then, on a cold engine, drain 4 liters from the system (which is essentially water) and add 4 liters of concentrate.
Is it important to add water in the end ?
Can you flush coolant tank with regular water ?
@@bernhardszarins6625 no you shouldn't
I have Duratec V6, but i guess it´s the same, thank you.
My mondo mk3 doesn’t have a drain plug
It might be hard to see, check the lower RH corner, look for the indented cross. If there's really nothing you'd have to take off the lower hose, pair of vice grips on the clip and a hot air gun to warm the rubber up.
I did not know these are sel bleeding which is fantastic 👍
What type of OBD scanner do you use?
th-cam.com/video/KdvnPC204zU/w-d-xo.html
make a video on how to wash this engine Duratec HE . Great videos, have a nice one ..
hey bu, whats the phone app your using? when viewing cht etc...
It's Forscan (Android).
Hi, can i add also 50/50 coolant and distilled water here in Europe where we -18C in winter times? Or can I just put full coolant? thx for ur reply Craig.
That's cold - but 50/50 is still good down to at least -35 deg C. You actually get maximum anti-freeze effect at about 66% coolant, which will supposedly manage down to under -50 C. The effectiveness actually decreases at higher concentrations - your bottle of 100% coolant concentrate will apparently start to freeze at about -15 C! Additionally Ford, for one, specify concentrate to remain between 40 and 60%. So by all means go to 60% if you like but no higher.
Thx for ur reply craig, i was just wondering if distilled water can not freeze under certain temperature.
Never bothered and I've worked in motortrade 47 years. Red stuff is good for 10 years usually . Cars not worth the expense after that.
But surely you can appreciate that vehicle technology isn't the same as 47 years ago?! I've been in the trade 20 years and 90% of the practices/procedures I would have followed THEN would be outdated now... You are reference procedures carried out on cars made in the late 60s early 70s and, by your implication, following the same processes - that just seems ridiculous to me.
Some people enjoy carrying out DIY maintenance and like to do this type of job when required to hopefully avoid potential damage to other components. For you to just dismiss that as 'cars aren't worth the expense after 10 years' is nonsense.
👍👍👍👍
And change the radiator cap every 4-5 years.
There is no radiator cap on these systems. If you mean the coolant tank cap, maybe, but you're more likely to end up needing to replace the entire tank as they tend to crack with age.
Great video. But can I just point one thing out which could cause a costly repair. You mentioned different colour coolants. Just to clay you must not use the wrong colour coolant and definitely do not mix coolants. There are three types, neither can be mixed and doing so will crest a chemical reaction, which turns the liquid into a gel, clogging up the small pipes, pump etc. Causing catastrophic failing of the engine !!
Never mind, I think found out what it's for, bleeding the air from the coolant system.
Thanks for another great video.