Ive seen what seems like a hundred people lay down fiberglass resin to seal there deck but nobody ever thinks to at least add a layer of fiberglass cloth to reinforce it. When we redid the wood floor in our small boat I cut out a layer of 3m fiberglass cloth the same size as the deck with a 2 inch overhang around all the hatch holes and sealed the wood with that thin layer of glass. It mad the deck way stiffer and even gave us the confidence to have used a thinner sheet of ply to do the same job. If your already going through the trouble of mixing the resin and coat the wood id suggest taking the extra step of glassing it too
Not such an issue. I'm a plywood boat or something small but on a larger boat. Fiberglassing over the wood is a bad idea, mostly because the wood needs to swell to Make the boat water resistant. If you're riding around in a boat and the wood never swelled up and the fiberglass cracks it's going to want to start sucking water like crazy.
Fiberglass is pretty amazing stuff. I was born and raised in Nova Scotia, Canada. The local boat builders would build small plywood dinghys ( 10 to 12 foot plywood row boats) and cover the bottom surface with fiberglass. Thry gave them a good coat of resin and applied fibreglass cloth as well for abrasion resistance. When they were fininshed with this they would apply a few coats of paint. These little boats got banged around a lot on a daily basis and they lasted for years. I grew up working with my father in his autobody repair shop. We would often use fiberglass resin, cloth, and reinforcing compound to repair rust holes. Fibreglass is not affected by salt and such repairs would last a really long time, often longer than using a metal patch. Sometimes, if there was a small hole at the bottom of a panel I would patch it with metal and cover it with fiberglass reinforcing compound. It was as solid as a rock and inexpensive. I see that some RVs have exposed OSB or plywood floors. This is disappointing considering the price of those products. If the floor was in good condition, I think that a few coats of fiberglass would help to preserve it. Thank you for this video.
I’m doing the floor on my pontoon this fall. This information has sparked things I hadn’t considered yet. Thanks for the great content. Job well done!!
I use a microfiber wrag to clean off the dust. This will tell me if I have missed any areas when sanding. The resin will make the wood fibers stand up and be prickly, so you want to make sure you sand the entire area.
You can use a brush and save on materials. There is a method of using Acetone to clean the brush after applying fiberglass resin. Your brush will be dry and ready to use when the first layer is dry. You can also spray your mixing cup with Dawn and Pam and clean our the resin before it hardens. This will give you a clean cup for the next batch.
Bro I don't know what it is, but I just got off work and decided to watch your video. I started feeling calm and relaxed. Definitely got a chill Vibe about you. And thanks for the content!
A better choice for wood is marine grade epoxy resin. It will bond better with the wood. If not using fiberglass cloth a clear penitrating epoxy resin works great. All these coatings need to be painted over or varnished with something containing UV inhibitors. The resin will break down under the UV rays of the sunlight . The resin you used is a polyester resin and has been used in boat building for years. This resin cost allot less but in my experiences the quality for longevity when used with wood is not as good. If using fiberglass matts or cloths it bonds allot better. Still all fiberglass resins need to be coated with the UV barriers. If you leave this in the sun unprotected it will start to turn collors then crack. Also over time blisters will form under the resin trapping moister and rotting the wood underneath. So prep work of your surface is key to long lasting protection. If laminating fiberglass cloth or matts over wood it is very important to remove all air pockets or bubbles. Again this is were rot will develop.
I'm building a small raised, wood floor, shop. The underside of the plywood will be exposed to the elements (So. Cal area). I want to seal all the edges and both sides of the plywood. The interior floor will receive a couple coats for wood floor paint. Any recommendations for a sealant?
I should’ve tried a roller. I just made a transom for my bullet input, a couple coats of fiberglass resin on it. I was stingy with the hardener on the first coat on both sides. It was a little tacky today, but I was able to sand it. I made sure to put in quite a bit of hardener for coat number two and it got hard within 45 minutes!
Nice adjustment. I typically use a little more than they say in the instructions. A slower cure does help it saturate the wood better though. I still prefer a fast cure lol
I have some indoor plywood that I used for the flooring in my house... Should I bother using that in my boat if I coat it with some resin and maybe some paint over that or should I just go get some exterior grade plywood at least first? I don't expect it to last 20 years, but If i could go 5 years without it needed to be fully replaced again I would be happy
I have been enjoying your videos, I am currently redoing a boat floor, I had a question that you didn’t need to use fiberglass when using fiberglass resin on the wood floor that you put carpet on?
1:40 these chemicals are so potient that just a drop will cause the whole to harden. It just takes longer. The example with bondo 50:1 ratio is so user has long work time. The more u put the faster it solidifies. I figured that out working with bondo and later epoxy. It my be "dry" & flimsy today but a week later hard as a rock.
I'm liking the video but in larger jobs like this. I use the poor and spread method where you mix it up in the bucket and then you just pour it out. Spread it around with a brush. Pour out more, spread it with a brush. Throw the brush away and wait for the next coat
Yes... more speeds the time... too little and it won't harden properly leaving a gooey mess. Follow the recommendations on the label and also remember the air temp. will also effect how fast it hardens. Again, follow the recommended temps. to apply.
I build drums and use fiberglass for the inside of the drum shell. I’ve used this brand but isn’t bonding. It was 70 degrees outside yesterday, could that be the reason?
Polyester resin (fiberglass resin) has to be sanded between coats or it won’t stick to itself unless you are using laminating resin. Polyester resin also doesn’t stick to polyethylene plastic.
Ive seen what seems like a hundred people lay down fiberglass resin to seal there deck but nobody ever thinks to at least add a layer of fiberglass cloth to reinforce it. When we redid the wood floor in our small boat I cut out a layer of 3m fiberglass cloth the same size as the deck with a 2 inch overhang around all the hatch holes and sealed the wood with that thin layer of glass. It mad the deck way stiffer and even gave us the confidence to have used a thinner sheet of ply to do the same job. If your already going through the trouble of mixing the resin and coat the wood id suggest taking the extra step of glassing it too
Does it still hold up well? I am thinking of doing this to reinforce the wood.
@@Rucnasit holds up very well
Not such an issue. I'm a plywood boat or something small but on a larger boat. Fiberglassing over the wood is a bad idea, mostly because the wood needs to swell to Make the boat water resistant. If you're riding around in a boat and the wood never swelled up and the fiberglass cracks it's going to want to start sucking water like crazy.
Fiberglass is pretty amazing stuff. I was born and raised in Nova Scotia, Canada. The local boat builders would build small plywood dinghys ( 10 to 12 foot plywood row boats) and cover the bottom surface with fiberglass. Thry gave them a good coat of resin and applied fibreglass cloth as well for abrasion resistance. When they were fininshed with this they would apply a few coats of paint. These little boats got banged around a lot on a daily basis and they lasted for years.
I grew up working with my father in his autobody repair shop. We would often use fiberglass resin, cloth, and reinforcing compound to repair rust holes. Fibreglass is not affected by salt and such repairs would last a really long time, often longer than using a metal patch. Sometimes, if there was a small hole at the bottom of a panel I would patch it with metal and cover it with fiberglass reinforcing compound. It was as solid as a rock and inexpensive.
I see that some RVs have exposed OSB or plywood floors. This is disappointing considering the price of those products. If the floor was in good condition, I think that a few coats of fiberglass would help to preserve it.
Thank you for this video.
There are two types of fiberglass resin, polyester and epoxy.
I’m doing the floor on my pontoon this fall. This information has sparked things I hadn’t considered yet. Thanks for the great content. Job well done!!
Thanks
I use a microfiber wrag to clean off the dust. This will tell me if I have missed any areas when sanding. The resin will make the wood fibers stand up and be prickly, so you want to make sure you sand the entire area.
Thanks for sharing! I’m working on a pontoon.
You can use a brush and save on materials. There is a method of using Acetone to clean the brush after applying fiberglass resin. Your brush will be dry and ready to use when the first layer is dry. You can also spray your mixing cup with Dawn and Pam and clean our the resin before it hardens. This will give you a clean cup for the next batch.
Bro I don't know what it is, but I just got off work and decided to watch your video. I started feeling calm and relaxed. Definitely got a chill Vibe about you. And thanks for the content!
Thanks man. We all need to chill 😎 life is too short not to 👍🏽
A better choice for wood is marine grade epoxy resin. It will bond better with the wood. If not using fiberglass cloth a clear penitrating epoxy resin works great. All these coatings need to be painted over or varnished with something containing UV inhibitors. The resin will break down under the UV rays of the sunlight . The resin you used is a polyester resin and has been used in boat building for years. This resin cost allot less but in my experiences the quality for longevity when used with wood is not as good. If using fiberglass matts or cloths it bonds allot better. Still all fiberglass resins need to be coated with the UV barriers. If you leave this in the sun unprotected it will start to turn collors then crack. Also over time blisters will form under the resin trapping moister and rotting the wood underneath. So prep work of your surface is key to long lasting protection. If laminating fiberglass cloth or matts over wood it is very important to remove all air pockets or bubbles. Again this is were rot will develop.
If using fiberglass resin , only use woven fiberglass cloth, it will not bond with chopped strand mat, though polyester and epoxy will.
Epoxy better adhesion, strength, water resistance, less affected by uv rays
I'm building a small raised, wood floor, shop. The underside of the plywood will be exposed to the elements (So. Cal area). I want to seal all the edges and both sides of the plywood. The interior floor will receive a couple coats for wood floor paint. Any recommendations for a sealant?
What type or grade of plywood did you use for the boat decks?
Great vid mate! One question, maybe a dumb one? Would this seal outside ( wet side ) of wooden trailer boat ? All the best from Australia!
I should’ve tried a roller. I just made a transom for my bullet input, a couple coats of fiberglass resin on it. I was stingy with the hardener on the first coat on both sides. It was a little tacky today, but I was able to sand it. I made sure to put in quite a bit of hardener for coat number two and it got hard within 45 minutes!
Nice adjustment. I typically use a little more than they say in the instructions. A slower cure does help it saturate the wood better though. I still prefer a fast cure lol
Thanks for the tips and tricks, pros and cons. Thanks for sharing. Tight Lines!!!
Might as well glass it for rigidity, strength and extra glass
near a year later. how does it hold up to sun and water?
I don't understand what you were saying about wood glue and poly being in conflict?
What kind of glue do you use for the carpeting? And what kind of carpet?
New to channel . loving videos.
You made an excellent video. thank you
I have some indoor plywood that I used for the flooring in my house... Should I bother using that in my boat if I coat it with some resin and maybe some paint over that or should I just go get some exterior grade plywood at least first?
I don't expect it to last 20 years, but If i could go 5 years without it needed to be fully replaced again I would be happy
I’m thinking of going this route today (west coast)
I have been enjoying your videos, I am currently redoing a boat floor, I had a question that you didn’t need to use fiberglass when using fiberglass resin on the wood floor that you put carpet on?
Yes I do fiberglass Resin the wood before carpeting.
1:40 these chemicals are so potient that just a drop will cause the whole to harden. It just takes longer. The example with bondo 50:1 ratio is so user has long work time. The more u put the faster it solidifies. I figured that out working with bondo and later epoxy.
It my be "dry" & flimsy today but a week later hard as a rock.
Very good content..like the video.
@@christompkins6102 Thank you!!!
I'm liking the video but in larger jobs like this. I use the poor and spread method where you mix it up in the bucket and then you just pour it out. Spread it around with a brush. Pour out more, spread it with a brush. Throw the brush away and wait for the next coat
@masjuggalo not a bad idea. May try that next time
Great video my friend👍👍
@@runltdan thanks
Does the amount of Hardner affect the drying time?
Yes... more speeds the time... too little and it won't harden properly leaving a gooey mess. Follow the recommendations on the label and also remember the air temp. will also effect how fast it hardens. Again, follow the recommended temps. to apply.
Great job brother
which glue for the carpet did you find bonded best?
@@jaywarren3505 Robert's 6700 works great with Fiberglass Resin treated wood. Be sure to light sant the resin before applying the adhesive
What type of plywood did you use? Can I use normal plywood (non marine) if using the resin?
You can use non marine plywood as long as you seal it.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV do I need to use a specific adhesive if I use this resin?
Great video very helpful
Nice hat! Hello from 489.
Great job
I build drums and use fiberglass for the inside of the drum shell. I’ve used this brand but isn’t bonding. It was 70 degrees outside yesterday, could that be the reason?
Do you just use the resin or the fiberglass cloth as well?
Polyester resin (fiberglass resin) has to be sanded between coats or it won’t stick to itself unless you are using laminating resin.
Polyester resin also doesn’t stick to polyethylene plastic.
I did what you did qorks great
Cool 😎
Why not use epoxy
Cost
What happens if you accidentally put 20 drops of hardener into 4oz of epoxy?
It will dry quicker
It explodes 😂
4 ounces of resin would be 40 drops as per specs, so it would dry slower.
You don't know how to teach