Model S CCS Retrofit
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video, I retrofit my 2015 Model S with the proper hardware to be able to communicate with 3rd party CCS/NACS chargers.
Basically all Teslas built prior to 2021 did not come with CCS communication hardware from the factory, and require a retrofit in order to "unlock" that capability. For most models, the parts to do so are available over the counter from Tesla, but for Model S built before the 2016 refresh, the parts are unfortunately not available over the counter here in North America. I was able to source the parts from Europe though, and thought it would be useful for folks to know how the process works.
If you want a CCS retrofit on your Tesla, or are in need of repairs for your EV, feel free to get in touch!
QC Charge #2
8750 NE Emerson St.
Portland OR, 97220
+1 (971) 444-5064
alex@qccharge.com
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Making a video about your high mileage Model S service history and your long-term cost of ownership would be a good idea. And also the battery health, future upgrades, etc.
I've got a couple videos about it on here, mostly from shortly after I bought it nearly 4 years ago. One of these days I should do an "ownership update".
@@AlexEVRepair I found your channel when researching buying used Model S. An 'ownership update' would be great, especially if you included some of the challenges you overcame as being an EV tech that others may not be able to accomplish themselves.
@@AlexEVRepairthat update would be GREATLY appreciated. Not enough recent videos on this 2015 model s out there on TH-cam. Especially Tesla longevity.
Always interesting and educational flicks from you,, 👍🌟👍
Cheers and thanks from Sweden,, 💖🙏💖
So cool to see how this is done. MCU2 service menu is so advanced compared to MCU1. Thanks Alex!
This is a very interesting explanation of the challenges that are affecting the value of used EV's and this frequent compatabily issues and upgrades are one of the primary reasons as to why I'm staying with ICE.
Alex, the camera, lighting, and sound are outstanding!
Glad someone made a video on this!
Greetings from Turkey, really very educational videos. Thank you.
I hope you will be able to offer this service upgrade in the future. I suspect most folks (like me) did not know this would even be necessary. I have two, 2015 P85 Ds (his and hers) both with free unlimited. But at our age we suspect we are just going to keep our S Cars and just fix them when they need it and not upgrade to a newer Tesla even though Tesla has offered we could switch our life time free unlimited to new Teslas. We both really love our cars. I suspect this upgrade is in our future. Thanks!
Yes very interesting and informational. Thanks!
This was awesome Alex, thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much
World Peace
Thank you. Everything is so clear and easy to do... But on my Tesla 90D (2016), there is no similar service menu like yours. I can't see the high voltage manu. Couldn't find anything like this 😢
Probably because you have MCU1... On those, the configuration change needs to be done with Toolbox 3.
@AlexEVRepair and? What can I do? 🫣 maybe CHadeMO is a better way to charge my Tesla 🤔
Another great video. Was wondering if you could put something together on what to check for when buying a used Tesla. Is there a way to check the health of the battery and all the on board systems or would it be better to take the car into Tesla for a inspection? I am looking to buy a used a model S 2016 or newer but want to know the risks and whether it is a good idea. I'm not so worried about the mechanical end like control arms, etc but the motor and battery are what concerns me the most. Also, I have heard that the battery should last an incredibly long time but the BMS is what typically fails, is this true? Would be great to see a video from someone like you about all things Tesla and a buyers check list. Wish you were in DFW......
That's a pretty good idea, I'll have to think about doing a video about that. There are a couple common things you can check for when it comes to the "major" components.
Firstly, if the car is equipped with a Large Drive Unit in the rear, the rotor encoder sensor (aka "speed sensor") should be removed and visually inspected for any signs of coolant or corrosion. The number one killer of these drive units is a failing rotor coolant seal, which leaks coolant into the motor, which will eventually cause major internal damage if left unchecked. These LDUs were used on basically all RWD and/or Performance Model S/X from 2012-2021 (regular dual motor models are unaffected by this issue as they use Small Drive Units both front and rear). The best prevention for this failure is to perform a rotor coolant delete modification. Obviously, if you test drive one and it makes a "milling noise" while in motion, that's a sign of bearing wear, which can be caused by a few different things (including coolant intrusion). Bearing wear is most common on the LDU, but can happen on SDUs as well.
Secondly, if you want to check overall battery health, the best tool to use is an app called ScanMyTesla, in conjunction with a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner and an adapter cable. It's a bit technical, but it allows you to see all sorts of parameters and metrics from the car, including some pretty useful battery health metrics. The two important battery health metrics are the mV imbalance, and CAC differential. Generally speaking, you want to be under 15mV imbalance when the vehicle is idle, though this number can vary depending on the state of charge when you take the measurement (low SoC is more likely the have a higher imbalance). CAC is the calculated average capacity for the bricks, so the bigger the differential, the larger the difference in capacity there is. Generally anything under 5Ah is considered good, 6-7Ah is acceptable, and anything more than that may be cause for concern, and could be indicative of a "downward slide" of one or more bricks. These imbalances can be caused by cell level issues within the modules/bricks, or by electronics failures with the BMS system. Worth noting, this app works best on Model S/X, but is not super accurate yet for Model 3/Y when it comes to some of the metrics.
As far as other battery issues, the other common problem on these packs is moisture intrusion, though on newer packs (2016+), it's a lot less common due to improvements in the design. That said, they can still have failed umbrella valves, which could let in moisture and cause problems. Probably not a terrible idea to have this checked at some point, but that does require removing the battery and performing a pressure test to find any potential leaks. Usually failures of the electronics are caused by excess moisture in the pack, which can condensate, and often takes out balancing capacitors on the BMB boards, and can also cause ultrasonically welded connections to come apart. In a worst case scenario, moisture can cause catastrophic corrosion issues inside the pack that could deem it "unrepairable".
Perfect time to add chademo to a AC only EV and try chademo to CCS1 adapter.
21:00 wait but this isn't free supercharging tho. that's not a tesla stall
Right, that's sort of the point... This retrofit allows the car to charge via CCS at non-Tesla DC fast chargers. It can still of course charge at the Superchargers (for free in the case of this car), but now all other stations are also available to charge, including in places where there might not be any Superchargers around, but where other charging exists.
@@AlexEVRepair yeah noticed that after watching more. my bad hahah.
Very interesting
kinda funny how it took so long for them to include this in teslas in the US when they had it in the EU day one.
It certainly wasn't available in the EU from "day one". While Model 3 did come with CCS capability in the EU from it's first deliveries (which started in Feb 2019), all Model S/X delivered in the EU prior to May 2019 did not have CCS capability, and require a retrofit/adapter (which is also why I was able to source these retrofit parts from the EU).
Please create wiring for Autopilot for 2012 tesla model s
Unfortunately implementing all of the required Autopilot wiring and other hardware on a pre-AP Model S isn't really something that makes economic sense... There's been a few people that have done it, but it's a ton of work, and requires a lot of parts to be retrofitted. You'd likely be better off to either sell it and get a newer one that has AP, or use an aftermarket system like Openpilot. Tinlka sells a lot of the hardware you would need to do that: tinkla.us/t/preApModelS
I have a 2015 Model S 85D and I was thinking of upgrading to CCS, how is the charging speed compared to the Tesla Supercharger? I have the Chademo adapter and it can't go above 50kwh, would love to get faster than that from the CCS.
The CHAdeMO adapter is limited to 50kW, but the CCS adapter can deliver over 250kW (which is obviously more power than your 85D can accept). Charging speed should be similar to what you get when Supercharging, assuming of course you can get the battery properly preconditioned, which can't be done "manually" on Teslas, so you kinda have to get a bit creative, particularly if the battery is cold.
@@AlexEVRepair Supercharging rarely gets me more than 50kW either. I don't want to upgrade to CCS if it won't get me more than that, so I guess it's not worth the upgrade.
Thanks for the response!
Pretty much the same for me (and most other Model S on the 70/85kWh architecture packs). My car might spike up to 100kW for a few seconds if I plug in at ~10% SoC and temps are warm outside, but very quickly drops to ~70kW, then tapers from there. Usually by the time I hit 50% SoC, it's down to ~50kW or less. In colder temps, the charging is even slower.
@@AlexEVRepair sounds the same as much charging curve as well
Hello, I am interested which model of MCU has your car? Is that Tegra Nvidea or Intel? Thank for advance
It's MCU2 (Intel).
thanks for your fast response❤️I am in eastern europe currently and there is only few chademo charging stations , so I am thinking to move on ccs, but my 2015 model S has mcu1 and as I know there is a difference in retrofit module beetween mcu1 and mcu2, I am still dont know which module should i buy ( i mean part numbers)
The module is not different, but with MCU 1 you need to use a Toolbox 3 subscription to change the configuration, as it doesn't have the menu option in service mode.
@@AlexEVRepairthank you ❤❤❤
Ebay link or part#?
The part number for the CCS controller itself is 1495133-00-A, and the part number for the wiring harness is 1494366-00-A
@@AlexEVRepair thanks, for mcu1 enabling diy option?
I'm not sure off the top of my head if MCU1 has the menu option in service mode or not. It might require a Toolbox subscription (which you can get from Tesla, $165 for 24hr access).
Checked service mode and didn't see anything related, but I'm still on v11, 2022.8.10.8
Subscribed, thanks again.