I have watched this numerous times and have had my husband watch as well. Thank you, gives us a possible idea for our Arizona House. Above Ground Pool just doesn't excite me - This is gorgeous. Thank you for for being so generous in your answers. Well Done.
I did not. I read up on what did and did not require permits for my location. I don't want to list the requirements since my area is likely different than your zoning permit requirements. However, some things to look for that could work in your favor would be to find out how your zoning department differentiates a "water feature" from a "pool". For instance, you might build a really nice, tiled, large fountain rather than a small pool. You might be surprised if you do a little digging. You may find you can stay within zoning requirements while avoiding a permitting and inspection requirement. You probably DON'T need a permit if you were to build an inground fountain with a maximum depth of 6", holding 20 gallons of water. You probably DO need a permit if you have something that's 20,000 gallons with a maximum depth of 12'. Find that grey area in the middle where it's big enough to use as a pool but isn't big enough for your inspection department to care
1:17 The filling with different materials like bricks, blocks, sand and others. I guess you are in a not so aggressive weather zone. Not sure it would pass the test of time up north (expansion properties) with the freezing... when lowering the water level before winter at -40 degrees and all the way back to 100 degrees on a hot summer day.
Yes, the weather in central NC isn't that extreme. As an example, we don't have to dig several feet below grade to avoid the frost line when digging footings. Frost level is measured in inches in many areas here, not feet. One would have to make adjustments to the way they build an inground pool in considerably colder climates. Thanks for watching!
@@rebaharward7933 First, it's worth mentioning I don't build pools for a living, this was just a DIY project. With that out of the way, I'm aware your Winters are much colder, with long freezing spells. Cosmetically, you can probably build a similar pool. Structurally, you probably need more rebar as well as polymers added to the concrete and mortar to help prevent large cracks during cold, freezing months. You probably need to also be mindful to bury the water lines below the frostline in your area. Hope this helps and good luck tackling your own DIY projects. Thanks for watching!
I designed the pool with 8x8x16 blocks in mind. I made the lengths and widths of everything to match - so any given side is evenly divisible by 16". I knew how deep I wanted the pool. This made it easy to calculate the exact number of cinderblock necessary. There are online calculators to determine how much mortar would be necessary to set all those blocks. Any time I needed to order concrete, I measured the depth at multiple locations to determine an average and then calculated the volume, and could determine how many yards of concrete to order. I knew the surface area of the inside of the pool and was able to calculate the required number of tiles. Is there another item/material you are interested that I haven't listed? Thanks for the question and for taking time to watch!
@shellydooney3720 Before answering, I feel it's worth mentioning I don't build pools for a living and this was my diy project. With that said, I felt the plumbing was fairly simple to design. All pipes are below water level when the pool is filled so there's little consideration needed for the slope of the pipes. I used sweeping turns for better water flow. My pool is not much larger than an above ground pool. Thus, I observed what size pumps and plumbing are typically used for above ground and used similar sizes. There are a few things to consider for the design. I figured out the path of the water from the pool to the pump and back again, with safety in mind. The suction of the pump can be very dangerous, easily entrapping a child at the intake if not properly designed. The water intake must have several points such that if any one point becomes blocked, water will continue to flow to the pump through another point so as to not entrap anyone. This is usually accomplished by two or more drains in the deepest part of the pool, spaced far enough apart that a single person would be unable to block all points at the same time. It's worth your time to search for and read many sources on the topic of pool entrapment and how to prevent it in your design. On the return, I found that the water jets should help "swirl" the water in the pool so as to slowly direct floating debris around the pool and eventually towards the skimmer. My design has two drains at the bottom of the pool, connected to the skimmer. So, water is drawn from the drains through the skimmer. The skimmer also draws water from near the surface, drawing in floating debris. The water then goes from the skimmer to the pump. I have a basic above ground, sand filter, pool pump. From the pump, the water is directed back to the pool to four return jets, one on each side of the pool. They're directed in a way to swirl the pool water in a counter clockwise direction. (Of course, clockwise would work just as well. The important thing is that all the jets work to move the water in the same direction.) Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Yes. I used copper wire attached to the rebar throughout the concrete all around the perimeter of the pool to ground. I've been in friends pools that weren't grounded and I didn't want a similar buzzing/shocking experience in our pool.
The inside dimension is 10'x20'. The tanning ledge is 2'8". The top step juts out 2'8" and is 6'8" wide. There are only five courses of cinder block and each step is about 8" high, corresponding to each row of cinder block. Thanks for watching!
I used mapei tile adhesive with added polymers. I also used mapei grout. Each of the products specified they were for submerged use. I don't have the specific product numbers handy but if I am able to track them down, I'll be sure to add another comment. This was honestly one of the most nerve-wracking decisions. I was very worried about water retention and leaking. But three years in, the water level drops so slowly over an extended amount of time, it's difficult to tell whether it's a slow leak or water loss through evaporation. Either way, I find the water retention to be satisfactory. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any more questions!
@@BradfieldsBeeYard So I watched this and the pool looks great. My concern would be the tile cracking eventually because of water penetration. I'd have suggested doing a skim coat of mortar over the block, then using Redgard or Aquadefence to create waterproof membrane layer, THEN using the mapei adhesive and grout designed for submersion.
@@stevedispensa8020 After having read your comment, I did a little reading on the subject and I will say I agree. Should anyone be watching this with intent on building a similarly constructed concrete below grade pool, invest in a layer of aqua defense or similar product. With that said, two-three years on, the pool hasn't had anything malfunction noticeably that would indicate some imminent structural failure. I do have to reapply an occasional one inch tile but I consider that general pool maintenance. I suspect the pool would last years longer with the membrane you mentioned. But I hope it lasts long enough for us to utilize it while our children are still young. Should it get to the point where we have to retile, I certainly will apply that membrane.. Thanks for watching and taking time to offer advice to others considering building their own pool!
@@jhonngreenn8084 I used mapei tile adhesive with added polymers. I also used mapei grout. Each of the products specified they were for submerged use. I don't have the specific product numbers handy but if I am able to track them down, I'll be sure to add another comment. This was honestly one of the most nerve-wracking decisions. I was very worried about water retention and leaking. But three years in, the water level drops so slowly over an extended amount of time, it's difficult to tell whether it's a slow leak or water loss through evaporation. Either way, I find the water retention to be satisfactory. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any more questions!
Looks great! I can’t imagine paying what pools cost these days, so I’m saving up all of these DIY pool videos for hubby. He is good at figuring out things, even designed and built a bridge across the 40 foot wide creek on our property! I feel he could do a pool. Thanks for sharing!
I have watched this numerous times and have had my husband watch as well. Thank you, gives us a possible idea for our Arizona House. Above Ground Pool just doesn't excite me - This is gorgeous. Thank you for for being so generous in your answers. Well Done.
I know there are a lot of factors....but do you mind to share your overall basic cost?
It was in the ballpark of $6,000 for the materials.
Turned out great! I never considered tile. Thanks for sharing
The tile is so much better on the bottom of your bare feet while in the pool.
Concrete block is both the highest quality and cheapest construction option for pools.
You're bot-tastic. Thanks for stopping by!
That’s beautiful ❤
Thank you.
I cringe everytime a see a DIY pool build on utube and they don't show proper grounding.
Glad you don't have to cringe this video. Thanks for watching!
Great pool. Great music. Who does the tunes?
In It To Win It ... FounderMusic ???
How thick is your pool base slab? Thank you for sharing.
It's 4"-6" thick and has rebar.
I'm doing it right now I'm the block phase
Nice! Best of luck to you on your build!
The days of paying out $50k for swimming pools is over.
50k ! You wish😂 most pools are going for 65-80k with out the fixings.
Did you have to pull permits or get inspections? Want to do this but worried about those aspects!!
I did not. I read up on what did and did not require permits for my location. I don't want to list the requirements since my area is likely different than your zoning permit requirements. However, some things to look for that could work in your favor would be to find out how your zoning department differentiates a "water feature" from a "pool". For instance, you might build a really nice, tiled, large fountain rather than a small pool. You might be surprised if you do a little digging. You may find you can stay within zoning requirements while avoiding a permitting and inspection requirement. You probably DON'T need a permit if you were to build an inground fountain with a maximum depth of 6", holding 20 gallons of water. You probably DO need a permit if you have something that's 20,000 gallons with a maximum depth of 12'. Find that grey area in the middle where it's big enough to use as a pool but isn't big enough for your inspection department to care
@@BradfieldsBeeYard thanks for your help!!
Do you deal with adverse weather in your area snow, cold, earthquakes, etc? How does the pool hold up?
No. We're not in a cold area with much freezing weather. Earthquakes aren't an issue either.
1:17 The filling with different materials like bricks, blocks, sand and others. I guess you are in a not so aggressive weather zone. Not sure it would pass the test of time up north (expansion properties) with the freezing... when lowering the water level before winter at -40 degrees and all the way back to 100 degrees on a hot summer day.
Yes, the weather in central NC isn't that extreme. As an example, we don't have to dig several feet below grade to avoid the frost line when digging footings. Frost level is measured in inches in many areas here, not feet. One would have to make adjustments to the way they build an inground pool in considerably colder climates. Thanks for watching!
@@BradfieldsBeeYardwhat would you do differently for a West Virginia climate?
@@rebaharward7933 First, it's worth mentioning I don't build pools for a living, this was just a DIY project. With that out of the way, I'm aware your Winters are much colder, with long freezing spells. Cosmetically, you can probably build a similar pool. Structurally, you probably need more rebar as well as polymers added to the concrete and mortar to help prevent large cracks during cold, freezing months. You probably need to also be mindful to bury the water lines below the frostline in your area. Hope this helps and good luck tackling your own DIY projects. Thanks for watching!
How did you calculate how much materials to use/purchase?
I designed the pool with 8x8x16 blocks in mind. I made the lengths and widths of everything to match - so any given side is evenly divisible by 16". I knew how deep I wanted the pool. This made it easy to calculate the exact number of cinderblock necessary. There are online calculators to determine how much mortar would be necessary to set all those blocks. Any time I needed to order concrete, I measured the depth at multiple locations to determine an average and then calculated the volume, and could determine how many yards of concrete to order. I knew the surface area of the inside of the pool and was able to calculate the required number of tiles. Is there another item/material you are interested that I haven't listed? Thanks for the question and for taking time to watch!
How did you figure out the plumbing?
@shellydooney3720 Before answering, I feel it's worth mentioning I don't build pools for a living and this was my diy project. With that said, I felt the plumbing was fairly simple to design. All pipes are below water level when the pool is filled so there's little consideration needed for the slope of the pipes. I used sweeping turns for better water flow. My pool is not much larger than an above ground pool. Thus, I observed what size pumps and plumbing are typically used for above ground and used similar sizes. There are a few things to consider for the design. I figured out the path of the water from the pool to the pump and back again, with safety in mind. The suction of the pump can be very dangerous, easily entrapping a child at the intake if not properly designed. The water intake must have several points such that if any one point becomes blocked, water will continue to flow to the pump through another point so as to not entrap anyone. This is usually accomplished by two or more drains in the deepest part of the pool, spaced far enough apart that a single person would be unable to block all points at the same time. It's worth your time to search for and read many sources on the topic of pool entrapment and how to prevent it in your design. On the return, I found that the water jets should help "swirl" the water in the pool so as to slowly direct floating debris around the pool and eventually towards the skimmer. My design has two drains at the bottom of the pool, connected to the skimmer. So, water is drawn from the drains through the skimmer. The skimmer also draws water from near the surface, drawing in floating debris. The water then goes from the skimmer to the pump. I have a basic above ground, sand filter, pool pump. From the pump, the water is directed back to the pool to four return jets, one on each side of the pool. They're directed in a way to swirl the pool water in a counter clockwise direction. (Of course, clockwise would work just as well. The important thing is that all the jets work to move the water in the same direction.) Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Did you bond/ground the water and pool?
Yes. I used copper wire attached to the rebar throughout the concrete all around the perimeter of the pool to ground. I've been in friends pools that weren't grounded and I didn't want a similar buzzing/shocking experience in our pool.
Can you give the dimensions of the pool? I love it and I want one exactly like it!
The inside dimension is 10'x20'. The tanning ledge is 2'8". The top step juts out 2'8" and is 6'8" wide. There are only five courses of cinder block and each step is about 8" high, corresponding to each row of cinder block. Thanks for watching!
@@BradfieldsBeeYard Thank you! One more question - Can you recommend a book that might help me with my DIY ciderblock pool build?
Unfortunately, no. I didn't use any books. I scavenged information from various sources online.
@@BradfieldsBeeYard Ok I’m sufficiently inspired! Thank You so much for answering questions and sharing information - you’re very kind 🤗
what did you use to waterproof?
I used mapei tile adhesive with added polymers. I also used mapei grout. Each of the products specified they were for submerged use. I don't have the specific product numbers handy but if I am able to track them down, I'll be sure to add another comment. This was honestly one of the most nerve-wracking decisions. I was very worried about water retention and leaking. But three years in, the water level drops so slowly over an extended amount of time, it's difficult to tell whether it's a slow leak or water loss through evaporation. Either way, I find the water retention to be satisfactory. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any more questions!
@@BradfieldsBeeYard So I watched this and the pool looks great. My concern would be the tile cracking eventually because of water penetration. I'd have suggested doing a skim coat of mortar over the block, then using Redgard or Aquadefence to create waterproof membrane layer, THEN using the mapei adhesive and grout designed for submersion.
@@stevedispensa8020 After having read your comment, I did a little reading on the subject and I will say I agree. Should anyone be watching this with intent on building a similarly constructed concrete below grade pool, invest in a layer of aqua defense or similar product. With that said, two-three years on, the pool hasn't had anything malfunction noticeably that would indicate some imminent structural failure. I do have to reapply an occasional one inch tile but I consider that general pool maintenance. I suspect the pool would last years longer with the membrane you mentioned. But I hope it lasts long enough for us to utilize it while our children are still young. Should it get to the point where we have to retile, I certainly will apply that membrane.. Thanks for watching and taking time to offer advice to others considering building their own pool!
Did you pour the block solid?
I did not. I made sure to backfill well behind the wall. I've had no cracking or fissures in the walls to date.
I would of thought the water would seep threw. What did you use to stick the tiles onto block? @@BradfieldsBeeYard
@@jhonngreenn8084 I used mapei tile adhesive with added polymers. I also used mapei grout. Each of the products specified they were for submerged use. I don't have the specific product numbers handy but if I am able to track them down, I'll be sure to add another comment. This was honestly one of the most nerve-wracking decisions. I was very worried about water retention and leaking. But three years in, the water level drops so slowly over an extended amount of time, it's difficult to tell whether it's a slow leak or water loss through evaporation. Either way, I find the water retention to be satisfactory. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any more questions!
What did this cost to build? I was scanning comments looking for the answer, and now suppose I might have missed that in the video lol.
We didn't keep track of all our expenses but it was in the ballpark of $6,000.
What did you tile pool with
@@BurningTorchMinistryTucson Islamorada Seafoam Green 2x2 Pool Tile
Looks great! I can’t imagine paying what pools cost these days, so I’m saving up all of these DIY pool videos for hubby. He is good at figuring out things, even designed and built a bridge across the 40 foot wide creek on our property! I feel he could do a pool. Thanks for sharing!