I have three baobabs, one I'm growing big to plant in the ground and the other two I've grafted together when they were two years old and I'm going to keep grafting large cuttings off my big one or more seedling into it, to try and get a really fat multi fused together trunk. I hope the end result is a very interesting bonsai.
@@TheBonsaiZone They were both pretty well exactly the same size, I cut a slice off each down one side about 100mm long from the trunk into the roots I then made sure they where lined up perfectly and bound them together as tight as I could. I did it in mid summer and left them bound until spring, they were well and truly fused together. I've only had one cutting successfully graft onto it so far, next I'll try more seedlings.
When you said you were repotting them soon, I didn't expect it this quickly! It was interteresting to see how the roots of your Baobabs developed over these two years. The roots of the two I have repotted look a lot closer to your smallest one. One main tuber, a multitude of fleshy roots, and only a couple fine roots. It is interesting to see that your tubers stopped growing downwards. Mine kept growing along the bottom of my pots. All of mine are about a third or slightly over half the thickness of your largest one. They are only a year old, but I didn't let them go dormant
Hello Nigel! Last video you said that you have too many trees. You know, One of the reasons I like your trees that's because you keep them healthy since I first begin watch your videos. Ok? And I like to see them.
I started a bunch of these seeds at the same time as you and just lost my largest this winter I think, no water all winter here either, so I don't get it, it's soft as can be right now though so I think she's toast. I also started the Madagascar species with a totally different young seedling habit and leaves than the digitata. Amazing trees indeed, thanks Nigel!
It might be the high humidity in the plant room that keeps the smaller Baobab trees alive without any watering? Maybe also the cooler temperatures in the plant room, 15 to 25 C? I had one of my Desert Rose go soft over the winter, I was giving it no water, but one tree out of the whole forest just went limp and died.
I was in my local garden centre the other day and saw a member of staff "watering" the plants. Except she wasn't, she had a big bucket of water and literally just dipped the pot in. That was the mechanism for watering that they used :O
Nigel, i did some experiments with my baobabs. Kept them under 5 degrees Celsius for a few hours, forgot them outside and they seem to be fine. So they did not die😊 i don t advise anyone to try it, but they were ok
Interesting trees . I've been growing four of the African variety since spring 2011 . Easy to grow although they are very susceptible to spider mite especially during the dormant period in winter when the mites suck the life out the thin branches . Also they don't like cold drafts. I've heard no one has had success in making one flower in a pot .
Salad is a really different goal than I'm used to with you... LOL This is the second video with no hacking or slashing ending in sticks...😄 That one tree looks like it was sitting on a bench watching the birds and pondering life. Very neat!
Interesting. I may try this with my upcoming baobab seedlings. I think I put my current trees in bonsai trainer pots too early. I have one strong grower that is pushing through the trainer pot. And, the other three seem to be growing comparatively slow. They are fun-to-grow trees! I planted 10 seeds and then went off to visit family so I am looking forward to seeing what has come of them.
Nice Jakob, my trees seem to have different growth rates too, they are doing well this year, I'm hoping some day they get the multi leaf clusters, a sign of a mature tree!!! I may save the new seeds for next summer, that way they will get some really good heat and a long growing season before winter hits!!! Have a great trip!!!!
Here in North Indian desert temperatures go below till 4 degree celsius in Winters and my Baobab does absolutely fine and Infact i watered it every alternative days even in winter and it did absolutely fine and it’s starting to leaf out now . I think its a myth that you shouldn’t water it in winters . The main thing to note is that when you water it in winters you should make sure that the whole pot drys out within 48 hours and then you wait 24 hours and do the next watering . You should try this with your smallest baobab as an experiment . Also make sure its winter dormancy period isnt humid . I think humid winters are the main reason for rot in colder countries . Baobab loves dry air during dormancy period .
I did not water mine at all, as Nigel did, and I kept them inside, because in Europe winters get very cold. Now they are waking up from dormancy, so it was the right thing not to water them
I have a fairly large Baobab tree in a pot. It did overwinter dry at around 10 C . It did well but took some time to bounce back. Do you know for how long you should let the roots dry out before repotting and watering them again?
The tree will start to leaf out all by it's self each spring, then you can start to water it once again. It's not recommended to water the tree when it has no leaves. The Baobab will take the cooler weather, but I would try and keep it above 15 C if you can!
@@Justme0495 I would think at least two weeks, this should give the roots time to heal. The trees are best repotted early spring just before the leaves come out, keep them dry until the roots have healed.
Hearing these trees breaking pots reminds me of snake plants. With snake plants you know they need repotting because they've escaped the pot and are growing out of it. Some quite dramatic pictures online. I'm normally the first to veer away from plastic anything, but for snake plants and a few others plastic really is your only option. Interesting to hear that bahobab trees are like that also.
Nigel did you start to have two different kinds of leaf ? Mines keep their leafs all the winter (two kinds) but I keep watering them every week. Moreover it seems your's get taller and taller that's what happen when they got too much water in a long period (spring/summer).
Hey I know this has nothing to do with this video. But I like right below Canada in idaho “north western USA”. And in the summers it can get up to 100-110 degrees Fahrenheit, and in the winters it can get as low as 5-10 degrees Fahrenheit. I don’t want to spend hundreds of dollars on a greenhouse and heater and fans. But if I bought a cheap $55 greenhouse off Amazon and didn’t use a fan or heater. With proper watering of my bonsais. Will they stay alive? Or will they die without a heater, humidifier and cooler? Thank you!
The hardy trees should be fine with a greenhouse as protection, it will save the trees from the drying wind and the mice and rabbits. You may have to water them on the warmer days in winter, but the hardy trees should be fine at those cold temperatures!
Lots of things to consider here. First, doesn't Idaho have lots of sunny days in winter? That would contribute a lot of solar heat. Probably not enough to prevent freezing but maybe enough to raise the temp from zone 5 up to zone 6. The trick is to retain as much heat as possible, so I would line your greenhouse with bubble wrap.That will let the warm sunlight in, and insulate the house to keep the heat from passing through the plastic walls and ceiling. Also, use greenhouse or packing tape to seal off any gaps in the plastic liner. A small draft will undo the effect of your insulation in just an hour or two. Second, make as many of the surfaces as possible matte black. Any kind of light striking the black surfaces will be absorbed and stored as heat. Place paint cans, full of water and painted black or jugs of water dyed black between and behind your trees. A rack of such cans or jugs against the north wall will store an amazing amount of heat. Next to solid plates of steel, water stores heat better than anything. This stored heat will prevent the temperature from dropping too fast at night or on cloudy days. Get yourself a maximum-minimum thermometer and check it often, especially during the first winter. For your first year, keep only trees proven hardy outdoors in your area in the greenhouse.Once you know how cold your greenhouse gets, you can perhaps extend the range of trees you can keep. another thing you need to be aware of is to not let your green house get too warm. You want your bonsai to stay dormant all winter, so temperatures more than a couple degrees above freezing are undesirable. One thing I have read is that two things are major causes of winter kill. One is wind, and the other is the soil drying out. Even frozen water can evaporate from your soil, even in subzero temperatures. It's called sublimation, so keep an eye on your trees and keep them hydrated. Just moist, not saturated, the roots still need to breathe.
@@TheBonsaiZone it is not as bad for bonsai as you think. You just have to treat them like baobabs. C. Pentandra needs a dry season. Especially in low light conditions in winter. Ceiba belongs to the same family as the baobab
I do get excited over the Baobabs.
Me too!!!
Same, the big one especially is looking very promising. I'm glad they're going into bigger pots. Hopefully they'll thicken up 😁
They don't look like much right now so it'll be really interesting to see how they grow and progress. Thanks Nigel.
Fingers crossed!
A most interesting tree has to have fabulously interesting roots. The baobab delivers both. I have baobab envy.
I have three baobabs, one I'm growing big to plant in the ground and the other two I've grafted together when they were two years old and I'm going to keep grafting large cuttings off my big one or more seedling into it, to try and get a really fat multi fused together trunk. I hope the end result is a very interesting bonsai.
How do they graft, are they fusing together? I want to know more!!!! Thanks!!
@@TheBonsaiZone They were both pretty well exactly the same size, I cut a slice off each down one side about 100mm long from the trunk into the roots I then made sure they where lined up perfectly and bound them together as tight as I could. I did it in mid summer and left them bound until spring, they were well and truly fused together.
I've only had one cutting successfully graft onto it so far, next I'll try more seedlings.
@@icariumrage3137 Thanks!
just thought to check up on these i’m glad to see they’re still around!
The largest tree already have a fairly nice taper on trunk, simply awesome!
I hope it does well this year!!!
When you said you were repotting them soon, I didn't expect it this quickly!
It was interteresting to see how the roots of your Baobabs developed over these two years. The roots of the two I have repotted look a lot closer to your smallest one. One main tuber, a multitude of fleshy roots, and only a couple fine roots.
It is interesting to see that your tubers stopped growing downwards. Mine kept growing along the bottom of my pots.
All of mine are about a third or slightly over half the thickness of your largest one. They are only a year old, but I didn't let them go dormant
I hope all our trees do well!!
Mine went in dormancy by default, so I had to stop wattering and let them rest
They've come along way, Nigel.🌳
I hope they grow well this year!!!
Baobabs with the repotting will have some great spring growth.
Hello Nigel! Last video you said that you have too many trees. You know, One of the reasons I like your trees that's because you keep them healthy since I first begin watch your videos. Ok? And I like to see them.
Thanks Filipe!!!
I have 2 baobab trees that I grew from seed 3 years ago. Definitely a trial and error experience.
Such an interesting tree.
I started a bunch of these seeds at the same time as you and just lost my largest this winter I think, no water all winter here either, so I don't get it, it's soft as can be right now though so I think she's toast. I also started the Madagascar species with a totally different young seedling habit and leaves than the digitata. Amazing trees indeed, thanks Nigel!
It might be the high humidity in the plant room that keeps the smaller Baobab trees alive without any watering? Maybe also the cooler temperatures in the plant room, 15 to 25 C? I had one of my Desert Rose go soft over the winter, I was giving it no water, but one tree out of the whole forest just went limp and died.
@@TheBonsaiZone must be humidity, I will have to pay closer attention moving forward, thanks Nigel!
In june baobabs love baths (like one week). It mimics rain season
I was in my local garden centre the other day and saw a member of staff "watering" the plants. Except she wasn't, she had a big bucket of water and literally just dipped the pot in. That was the mechanism for watering that they used :O
Nigel, i did some experiments with my baobabs. Kept them under 5 degrees Celsius for a few hours, forgot them outside and they seem to be fine. So they did not die😊 i don t advise anyone to try it, but they were ok
Thanks so much, great to know!!!
Interesting trees . I've been growing four of the African variety since spring 2011 . Easy to grow although they are very susceptible to spider mite especially during the dormant period in winter when the mites suck the life out the thin branches . Also they don't like cold drafts. I've heard no one has had success in making one flower in a pot .
Hi Nigel, when you are making landscaping for these baobab, and how you protect them in rain
Salad is a really different goal than I'm used to with you... LOL This is the second video with no hacking or slashing ending in sticks...😄 That one tree looks like it was sitting on a bench watching the birds and pondering life. Very neat!
Lol, edible bonsai, yummy!
Try un-milled sphagnum moss. Soak it. Then press into bottom big holes and sides. Holds soil in pot + roots can grow into it & still get air pruned.
Interesting. I may try this with my upcoming baobab seedlings. I think I put my current trees in bonsai trainer pots too early. I have one strong grower that is pushing through the trainer pot. And, the other three seem to be growing comparatively slow. They are fun-to-grow trees! I planted 10 seeds and then went off to visit family so I am looking forward to seeing what has come of them.
Nice Jakob, my trees seem to have different growth rates too, they are doing well this year, I'm hoping some day they get the multi leaf clusters, a sign of a mature tree!!!
I may save the new seeds for next summer, that way they will get some really good heat and a long growing season before winter hits!!! Have a great trip!!!!
Someday I hope to see a full size one in person. Have you tried eucalyptus? The rainbow bark is so cool.
I've seen a small one, about twice my height, but never a giant!
Here in North Indian desert temperatures go below till 4 degree celsius in Winters and my Baobab does absolutely fine and Infact i watered it every alternative days even in winter and it did absolutely fine and it’s starting to leaf out now . I think its a myth that you shouldn’t water it in winters . The main thing to note is that when you water it in winters you should make sure that the whole pot drys out within 48 hours and then you wait 24 hours and do the next watering . You should try this with your smallest baobab as an experiment . Also make sure its winter dormancy period isnt humid . I think humid winters are the main reason for rot in colder countries . Baobab loves dry air during dormancy period .
Thanks so much, great information!!!!
I did not water mine at all, as Nigel did, and I kept them inside, because in Europe winters get very cold. Now they are waking up from dormancy, so it was the right thing not to water them
👍👌👌
big Cut coming up
Yes eventually!!! A big, big cut~!!
How are they now, did they all survive? And great video btw 😊
Yes, these trees are doing really well, I have three on the go and the trunk is close to 25 mm thick or 1 inch!
So cool, can't wait to see an update! 😊
I have a fairly large Baobab tree in a pot. It did overwinter dry at around 10 C . It did well but took some time to bounce back. Do you know for how long you should let the roots dry out before repotting and watering them again?
The tree will start to leaf out all by it's self each spring, then you can start to water it once again. It's not recommended to water the tree when it has no leaves. The Baobab will take the cooler weather, but I would try and keep it above 15 C if you can!
@@TheBonsaiZone Thank you very much for clarification :) Also I wonder how long I have to hold back water, after cutting the roots ?
@@Justme0495 I would think at least two weeks, this should give the roots time to heal. The trees are best repotted early spring just before the leaves come out, keep them dry until the roots have healed.
@@TheBonsaiZone Thank you very much for your advice! :)
Hearing these trees breaking pots reminds me of snake plants. With snake plants you know they need repotting because they've escaped the pot and are growing out of it. Some quite dramatic pictures online.
I'm normally the first to veer away from plastic anything, but for snake plants and a few others plastic really is your only option. Interesting to hear that bahobab trees are like that also.
You should pair one with a miniature rose.
Too cliche?
Nigel did you start to have two different kinds of leaf ? Mines keep their leafs all the winter (two kinds) but I keep watering them every week. Moreover it seems your's get taller and taller that's what happen when they got too much water in a long period (spring/summer).
Hey I know this has nothing to do with this video. But I like right below Canada in idaho “north western USA”. And in the summers it can get up to 100-110 degrees Fahrenheit, and in the winters it can get as low as 5-10 degrees Fahrenheit. I don’t want to spend hundreds of dollars on a greenhouse and heater and fans. But if I bought a cheap $55 greenhouse off Amazon and didn’t use a fan or heater. With proper watering of my bonsais. Will they stay alive? Or will they die without a heater, humidifier and cooler? Thank you!
The hardy trees should be fine with a greenhouse as protection, it will save the trees from the drying wind and the mice and rabbits. You may have to water them on the warmer days in winter, but the hardy trees should be fine at those cold temperatures!
Lots of things to consider here. First, doesn't Idaho have lots of sunny days in winter? That would contribute a lot of solar heat. Probably not enough to prevent freezing but maybe enough to raise the temp from zone 5 up to zone 6. The trick is to retain as much heat as possible, so I would line your greenhouse with bubble wrap.That will let the warm sunlight in, and insulate the house to keep the heat from passing through the plastic walls and ceiling. Also, use greenhouse or packing tape to seal off any gaps in the plastic liner. A small draft will undo the effect of your insulation in just an hour or two. Second, make as many of the surfaces as possible matte black. Any kind of light striking the black surfaces will be absorbed and stored as heat. Place paint cans, full of water and painted black or jugs of water dyed black between and behind your trees. A rack of such cans or jugs against the north wall will store an amazing amount of heat. Next to solid plates of steel, water stores heat better than anything. This stored heat will prevent the temperature from dropping too fast at night or on cloudy days.
Get yourself a maximum-minimum thermometer and check it often, especially during the first winter. For your first year, keep only trees proven hardy outdoors in your area in the greenhouse.Once you know how cold your greenhouse gets, you can perhaps extend the range of trees you can keep. another thing you need to be aware of is to not let your green house get too warm. You want your bonsai to stay dormant all winter, so temperatures more than a couple degrees above freezing are undesirable.
One thing I have read is that two things are major causes of winter kill. One is wind, and the other is the soil drying out. Even frozen water can evaporate from your soil, even in subzero temperatures. It's called sublimation, so keep an eye on your trees and keep them hydrated. Just moist, not saturated, the roots still need to breathe.
Comprehensive!
@@TheBonsaiZone I have a thoweil hinoki cypress, and a Japanese juniper or a dwarf Japanese juniper (I forgot the name of it). Will those be ok?
@@emmitstewart1921 but what about the summer time and I made my greenhouse black? What about the blazing hot and dry summers
Foistski
🍪
@@Stettafire Where’s my oatmeal raisin cookie?
@@mattbrennan647 🍪🌾🍇
Close enough? 🤣
I thought ceiba pentandra is your favourite tree
Yes, maybe for a full size tree, but not for bonsai!!
@@TheBonsaiZone it is not as bad for bonsai as you think. You just have to treat them like baobabs. C. Pentandra needs a dry season. Especially in low light conditions in winter. Ceiba belongs to the same family as the baobab
@@jarosawdamianek8289 Thanks, I'll keep working on my only one left!!
😉🌍🌎🌏😎😎😎😎
🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗
We need a new video update 😂 😔 😔