Thanks Steve - I will be over the moon if I can get it to run over the next few days. Just waiting for some small heat shrink tube to insulate the hall sensor pins. There is always something else to buy and wait for it to arrive in the post! Cheers Andrew
It’s getting close! Excellent video as always. Check the compression remains after holding at TDC for a few seconds (no leak down at valve/piston ring) hard the say but it sounds like a small leak at a valve. Both my engines will push away after holding at TDC for a second or two. Will be running this week!
@@learningturningmetal it should hold pressure at TDC, at least for a few seconds. And have enough to push piston mostly back down bore. It will run with a little leakage, but will be far easier to start with none. Can’t wait to see it run!
Blimey James you should provide remote diagnostic services! I've just checked and there was a massive air leak around the spark plug. Only way to fix it was to put a nitrile o-ring under the copper washer. I hope it will withstand the heat - but then again the piston ring is nitrile. I can still hear a very slight hiss - I suspect the exhaust valve seat because it goes away when I cover the exhaust outlet. I don't think compression is as good as you describe, but I think I will try running as is. I'm waiting for some heat shrink tubing to arrive before fitting the ignition. Thanks for the great advice. Andrew
Thanks Steve - me neither. I hope it's not a total disaster! I've ordered a couple of books from the US - one by Philip Duclos which contains a number of his engine plans. Maybe one of those. Ordered on 26th Dec 2020 with $48 priority shipping. When I looked a couple of days ago, they were still in the US. Hey ho! Cheers Andrew
Thanks Philip. The magnet is on the inside of the cam gear. I 3D printed a holder for the hall sensor and attached it to the body of the engine. Cheers Andrew
The engine looks great and turns over smoothly. All the ignition and coil discussion takes me back to tinkering with my Ford Escort 40 odd years ago. I assume you will be able to reduce the set up to a neat box housing once you are happy with it. So the million dollar question...is it going to run? You have compression, you have a spark, just add fuel and get the timing right. I have faith.
Yeah Tim - it takes me back to that era too - when motor vehicle ignition was such a simple affair. It's a shame that the Farm Boy wasn't designed to have a set of points cos I would have been in my element. Three more videos to go I think. Next will be a test run, second might be a fuel tank, and the third showing it painted and mounted on something to hide all the electronics. Getting to the very nervous bit now! Cheers Andrew
Gday Andrew, I certainly did find this very interesting, I’m not sure why the first setup affected the internet, that’s a strange one there, the engine looks beautiful, you have done great job, cheers Matty
Thanks Matty - from other comments it looks like it's not uncommon. However, if I had tested it with the spark plug in the engine it might have shielded the problem. I learn something new every day! The engine needs a bit of a tidy but it should look OK once painted. I just need to get it running first. All the best. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal The reason why your internet and TV died when you used the high power system was that the spark generates an Electro Magnetic Pulse (sometimes abbreviated EMP). An EMP is a broadband radio signal, this is what Marconi used in his early experiments and a big enough pulse can not only interfere with wifi and TV signals it can actually destroy sensitive equipment. All sparks will generate this, so when you described the first system as generating a big fat spark then this will generate a lot of interference. Car bodies and the position of the spark plug in car vehicles actually screens a lot of this from escaping the vehicle. The 6v system probably generates a pulse with less energy and therefore less interference which the wifi can tolerate.
I just got my Howell running with the governor, I am using a Hall Effect ignition system form model-engine-ignition.com. Two items. First, mine is running at about 800 RPM. The governor engages at 825 RPM and disengages at about 750. I have a small electric motor to get it up to 500 RPM before it starts firing reliably. Once started it runs "smoothly", being a hit.miss engine. Second, I found that air intake port of the mixer was too big. I reduced it to about 0.100" and it works just fine. I am a function before form kind of builder, hence mine is no where near s finished as yours. Took me a year. Oh, I also put a flat on the crankshaft under the gear. The 2-56 screw was just insufficient in hold the gear's position. Good luck and may you dance ridiculously when it fires. Peace.
Great to see the progress! Could be that the 12V is simply making a bigger spark and that you've accidentally built a nice 'spark gap transmitter' that is messing with the radio parts of your router. Anyway, putting the sparkplug in your cylinder may help a lot already in shielding the radio emission (having the metal work for you as a Faraday cage).
Thanks for the advice Roel. Looks like you might be right. I never thought that putting the spark plug in the cylinder might help - great idea. Cheers Andrew
It’s a great little engine , but did you have to put a computer on it ? You have a coil , all you need is a mechanical contact switch . That’s how the old ones worked . You could also make a coil from an old door bell buzzer and a four wire lawnmower magneto . That’s how I reproduce automotive Buzz Coils . I think I have a power point on TH-cam , if not I’d be happy to share .
Thanks mate. I guess there are lots of ways to skin a 🐈. The hall censor fits in with the original design, though I would like to consider alternative methods in the future. I quite fancy using points and a coil on an engine. Cheers Andrew
@@learningturningmetal I actually use points (instead of the Reed switch) and a VW coil on my hot and miss! I use a Reed switch to trigger coil on my vertical engine. You can also use a hall sensor to trigger the VW coil. It’s doing exactly the same thing as that circuit board and 6v inside.
Mind-blowing James! I guess the points go on a cam on the other side of the crankshaft. But that would result in a spark at the top of each stroke? You should do more videos of your setups cos loads of folk would be interested I'm sure. Cheers Andrew
@@learningturningmetal yes, wasted spark, whereby you have a spark at every TDC, common on just about every single cylinder engine and most twin coil engine from the 90’s and earth 2000’s. I’m a very busy man with a full tone job, two young kids, a summerhouse to build, a patio to lay, and many other machining/welding projects to do! Not much tome for filming videos I’m afraid! I enjoy watching your videos! Ha
Thanks John me neither! I've ordered a couple of books from the US - one by Philip Duclos which contains a number of his engine plans. Maybe one of those, assuming I can get this to run. All the best. Andrew
Hi Andrew. I'm planning on using 4 18650 lithium cells as the power source on my Farm Boy and use a quad bike coil with the Jerry Howell ignition board. I did that on another engine I built and they worked well. Yours seems to have more compression than mine so I may have to investigate that. Cheers!
Hi Tony - sounds like a neat solution. Regarding compression - James Chaffe commented that it sounded like I had a small leak on a valve - have a look at the comments. I sprayed some WD40 on the outside of the head and found loads of air escaping past the spark plug. I didn't want to over-tighten and strip the threads in the head, so I put a viton o-ring under the between the head and the spark plug washer. That improved compression immensely (I now get a lot of bounce back when giving it a turn) but I can still hear a slight leak in the area of the exhaust valve seat. I had originally used some Solvol Autosol to lap the valves - but it is very fine stuff. I've just ordered some ultra lapping paste (1000grit) from Moleroda and I will have another go at lapping when I strip it down for painting. I've not seen any comments of people using this lapping paste, but it comes in a massive range of grits. Hopefully mine will still be OK for a test run. Try some WD40 on the outside of the head and see if you can spot any leaks. James Chaffe is very informative regarding compression. Let me know how you get on. Cheers Andrew
possibly its a emi problem. i would have a look into grounding. usually the routers come without grounding. a spark plug is like a old fashioned Marconi transmitter that sends out morse code, picked up by everything that conducts. like electrical wires and also shielding in the Ethernet cables etc. as the router does not ground noise, it will overload the delicate circuits that modulate the wifi
Ah - I think you have solved the puzzle. I also have an ethernet cable running through the workshop which connects to the router. Maybe that's been the conductor and panicked the router. That particular solution did generate a really hefty spark. Many thanks for the explanation. Cheers Andrew
@@learningturningmetal the likely cause is the long HT lead, the first coil is meant to fit over the spark plug so everything is shielded inside the metal housing
Hello Andrew, I like Simon's solution mainly for the LED as it would be useful for the timing and diagnostic/fault finding. I am sure you have planned this but it would be great if all the ignition stuff (battery, LED, Coil, ETC.) where located so they did not take away from the great look of the engine you've built. Take care Paul,,
Hi Andrew, looks really good and cant wait to see the end result which im sure wont be long with your pace! Im still way behind as my workshop is frozen and im waiting for the electrician to fit a new fuse board as mine has blown ...too many amps i guess. Have you looked at the Hemingway projects - theres quite a few interesting projects. All the best
Hi Andy - definitely not great weather for working in the workshop. I hope you get the power sorted soon. I've ordered a couple of books from the US. One is The Shop Wisdom of Philip Duclos which contains a number of plans. If I can get the hit n miss running I might go for a Duclos engine. If it doesn't run I will sell all my gear - ha ha. Cheers Andrew
It looks like you found a lower power solution! That VW cylinder coil would have been generating considerable broad spectrum RF noise that would also be annoying your close neighbours if your walls were a bit thinner. Once the plug was enclosed I suspect that it would no longer interfere but the new solution will be lower power anyway, so better from batteries. I am surprised you don't recall the days of analogue TV when you could hear the motorbikes and cars with leaky HT leads heading down the road :~D
So how come it doesn't wipe out internet and other delicate systems in the neighbourhood when it is producing sparks for the VW car engine.? Electical noise supression is a requirement on all motor vehicles.
@@howardosborne8647 Yes but that depends on a spark enclosed in a grounded cylinder together with a suppressed lead. Even if the lead is suppressed the spark was open, and those VW coil on cylinder units are very powerful with such a small plug that probably has a lower impedence than a standard car plug. I designed an electronic ignition that used a PIC for a special purpose and that needed a very specific plug to match the coil impedence, as well as extensive opto-isolation and filtering to prevent induced current crashing and ultimately killing the digital electronics.
Just thinking about your WiFi going down during the test with the HEI coil on plug set up. You may have not have been using shealded cable and the hi frequency of the spark drowned out the WiFi. Just a thought. I really enjoy your channel Thank you Bill Beutler Topeka Ks.
Hi,Andrew. I think it undoubtedly some form of electro magnetic or RF noise issue that is interfering with your internet and computer systems. Whether it is generally RF being transmitted through the ether or a spike being transmitted back down the wiring ring main is what you first need to establish. Is the power supply plugged into a socket on the same common ring main as the computer is? Allan Enot's channel had an issue with a electrical spike from one device interfering with the DRO on his milling machine. He simply separated the 2 onto different ring mains. James Clough also had a couple of videos demonstrating how to remedy unwanted interference noise when he recently installed a Variable Frequency Drive to one of his machines.
Hi Howard - it's all on a separate ring main. However from other comments it appears that interference like this can be quite common. Some suggest that placing the spark plug in the engine might reduce it. However, it's not an issue, now that I've decided to go with the other option. All the best. Andrew
Well done Andrew, looking great. Just a small niggle to me, I think that you went a bit OTT with your Big End bearing cap marking, 2 big pop marks showing, just 1 small pop or even a small nick with a knife edge file would have been sufficient. Perhaps on final assembly you can rotate the Conrod so that the marking will be underneath and will not show. Sounds like you had a heater running this time. Stay Safe PLEASE. I am sure that I am not alone and are itching to see this engine run. Will this use unleaded Petrol or will you use Model Aircraft Fuel ? Regards from Australia.
Ha ha Dave - It's a BIG niggle for me! Goodness knows why I marked it up like that. You live and learn and I hope I won't do that again - I plan to sort it out on final assembly. I'm hoping to run it on methanol with a small amount of WD40. I've got some methonal tolerant fuel pipe. Fingers crossed it will work! Don't get sunburn - it's snowing here :-( UK has just hit 100,000 covid deaths! Crazy! All the best and you take care. Andrew
Another great video Andrew, thank you. Can I ask how you are getting on with the WM18B now? I'm sizing it up alongside the smaller WM16B and the SX2.7 from Sieg. Wondering whether it's a false economy to go for the lighter ones and if I should jump straight to the bigger beast.
Hi - I've got the WM18 - not the belt driven version. It's great! Powerfeed on the x-axis. Large table, lots of room, very accurate. I just hope it will be reliable. Probably better going for the belt driven version if you can get powerfeed on the x-axis. Go as big as you can get, if you have space and budget! Cheers! Andrew
Hi Jeremy - I never thought of that. I hadn't got a connector for the rimfire sparkplug so I just extended an HT lead with some thick wire. I've just this minute purchased a connection from minimagneto.co.uk. I hope I will be able to connect the HT lead to that. Fingers crossed. Cheers Andrew
alan thatcher, hi andrew i have built 27 model hit and miss engines and now use tiny small cdi ignition from ebay model engine section 2"x11/2"X1" NIGOSTAR IS supllier comeplete with hall sensor £18.00 9volt battery hop this helps
Hi Alan - thanks for the info, but searching for that on eBay UK doesn't produce anything. Is the search criteria correct? 27 hit n miss engines would take me about 27 years at my current rate! Cheers Andrew
@@learningturningmetal hi andrew go to ebay put in hit and miss engine model scroll down you will see a yellow box igntion £25.00 gone up a bit run it with a cr123 3 volt lithium battery . go to youtube enter centaur model engine scroll down till you come to alan you will see it running i take the lid of ignition i am useing a micro switch alan
Thanks Alan - I found it! I've made a note of it for future reference. Useful info for others too. I've just checked out your TH-cam video - you have made an absolutely fantastic job of your Centuar model engine. Looks complex but that might well be my next project! I like challenges. Food for thought. All the best. Andrew
good work, i think your first setup, not only created an ignition system but also a spark transmitter used in early radio,
Hi Gary, I think you are spot on. A few others have suggested that. Cheers
Andrew
The engine is looking really good you should be proud of yourself .good luck getting a spark and getting her running.
Thanks Steve - I will be over the moon if I can get it to run over the next few days. Just waiting for some small heat shrink tube to insulate the hall sensor pins. There is always something else to buy and wait for it to arrive in the post!
Cheers
Andrew
It’s getting close! Excellent video as always. Check the compression remains after holding at TDC for a few seconds (no leak down at valve/piston ring) hard the say but it sounds like a small leak at a valve. Both my engines will push away after holding at TDC for a second or two.
Will be running this week!
Thanks James - you have got me worried now! I will have a listen!
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal it should hold pressure at TDC, at least for a few seconds. And have enough to push piston mostly back down bore. It will run with a little leakage, but will be far easier to start with none. Can’t wait to see it run!
Blimey James you should provide remote diagnostic services! I've just checked and there was a massive air leak around the spark plug. Only way to fix it was to put a nitrile o-ring under the copper washer. I hope it will withstand the heat - but then again the piston ring is nitrile. I can still hear a very slight hiss - I suspect the exhaust valve seat because it goes away when I cover the exhaust outlet. I don't think compression is as good as you describe, but I think I will try running as is. I'm waiting for some heat shrink tubing to arrive before fitting the ignition.
Thanks for the great advice.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal what can I say, I have a good ear! Have you lapped the valves at all? I found it necessary.
Hi James - I used some Solvol Autosol but its very fine - probably too fine. Any recommendations?
realy nice job you have made of the engine
Thanks David - it should look better once painted.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew, another great video, but just a bit of a tease. Can't wait to see it running. What next?
Thanks Steve - me neither. I hope it's not a total disaster! I've ordered a couple of books from the US - one by Philip Duclos which contains a number of his engine plans. Maybe one of those. Ordered on 26th Dec 2020 with $48 priority shipping. When I looked a couple of days ago, they were still in the US. Hey ho!
Cheers
Andrew
'The world's internet collapsed by model engine'. Would be a great headline. It's really looking good.
Ha ha - now that would be a laugh!
Cheers
Andrew
Great engine build. Where did you put the magnet for the hall sensor
Thanks Philip. The magnet is on the inside of the cam gear. I 3D printed a holder for the hall sensor and attached it to the body of the engine.
Cheers
Andrew
Thanks for that. Do you have any pictures of it
The engine looks great and turns over smoothly. All the ignition and coil discussion takes me back to tinkering with my Ford Escort 40 odd years ago. I assume you will be able to reduce the set up to a neat box housing once you are happy with it. So the million dollar question...is it going to run? You have compression, you have a spark, just add fuel and get the timing right. I have faith.
Yeah Tim - it takes me back to that era too - when motor vehicle ignition was such a simple affair. It's a shame that the Farm Boy wasn't designed to have a set of points cos I would have been in my element. Three more videos to go I think. Next will be a test run, second might be a fuel tank, and the third showing it painted and mounted on something to hide all the electronics. Getting to the very nervous bit now!
Cheers
Andrew
Gday Andrew, I certainly did find this very interesting, I’m not sure why the first setup affected the internet, that’s a strange one there, the engine looks beautiful, you have done great job, cheers Matty
Thanks Matty - from other comments it looks like it's not uncommon. However, if I had tested it with the spark plug in the engine it might have shielded the problem. I learn something new every day! The engine needs a bit of a tidy but it should look OK once painted. I just need to get it running first.
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal The reason why your internet and TV died when you used the high power system was that the spark generates an Electro Magnetic Pulse (sometimes abbreviated EMP). An EMP is a broadband radio signal, this is what Marconi used in his early experiments and a big enough pulse can not only interfere with wifi and TV signals it can actually destroy sensitive equipment. All sparks will generate this, so when you described the first system as generating a big fat spark then this will generate a lot of interference. Car bodies and the position of the spark plug in car vehicles actually screens a lot of this from escaping the vehicle. The 6v system probably generates a pulse with less energy and therefore less interference which the wifi can tolerate.
@@terrybailey2769 Very interesting!
I just got my Howell running with the governor, I am using a Hall Effect ignition system form model-engine-ignition.com. Two items. First, mine is running at about 800 RPM. The governor engages at 825 RPM and disengages at about 750. I have a small electric motor to get it up to 500 RPM before it starts firing reliably. Once started it runs "smoothly", being a hit.miss engine. Second, I found that air intake port of the mixer was too big. I reduced it to about 0.100" and it works just fine. I am a function before form kind of builder, hence mine is no where near s finished as yours. Took me a year. Oh, I also put a flat on the crankshaft under the gear. The 2-56 screw was just insufficient in hold the gear's position. Good luck and may you dance ridiculously when it fires. Peace.
Great to see the progress! Could be that the 12V is simply making a bigger spark and that you've accidentally built a nice 'spark gap transmitter' that is messing with the radio parts of your router. Anyway, putting the sparkplug in your cylinder may help a lot already in shielding the radio emission (having the metal work for you as a Faraday cage).
Thanks for the advice Roel. Looks like you might be right. I never thought that putting the spark plug in the cylinder might help - great idea.
Cheers
Andrew
It’s a great little engine , but did you have to put a computer on it ? You have a coil , all you need is a mechanical contact switch . That’s how the
old ones worked . You could also make a coil from an old door bell buzzer and a four wire lawnmower magneto . That’s how I reproduce automotive Buzz Coils . I think I have a power point on TH-cam , if not I’d be happy to share .
And a condenser, sorry , capacitor. 😊
Thanks mate. I guess there are lots of ways to skin a 🐈. The hall censor fits in with the original design, though I would like to consider alternative methods in the future. I quite fancy using points and a coil on an engine.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal I actually use points (instead of the Reed switch) and a VW coil on my hot and miss! I use a Reed switch to trigger coil on my vertical engine. You can also use a hall sensor to trigger the VW coil. It’s doing exactly the same thing as that circuit board and 6v inside.
Mind-blowing James! I guess the points go on a cam on the other side of the crankshaft. But that would result in a spark at the top of each stroke? You should do more videos of your setups cos loads of folk would be interested I'm sure.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal yes, wasted spark, whereby you have a spark at every TDC, common on just about every single cylinder engine and most twin coil engine from the 90’s and earth 2000’s. I’m a very busy man with a full tone job, two young kids, a summerhouse to build, a patio to lay, and many other machining/welding projects to do! Not much tome for filming videos I’m afraid! I enjoy watching your videos! Ha
Very interesting video Andrew thanks again. Can’t wait to see it running. What’s up next?
Thanks John me neither! I've ordered a couple of books from the US - one by Philip Duclos which contains a number of his engine plans. Maybe one of those, assuming I can get this to run.
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Andrew. I'm planning on using 4 18650 lithium cells as the power source on my Farm Boy and use a quad bike coil with the Jerry Howell ignition board. I did that on another engine I built and they worked well. Yours seems to have more compression than mine so I may have to investigate that. Cheers!
Hi Tony - sounds like a neat solution. Regarding compression - James Chaffe commented that it sounded like I had a small leak on a valve - have a look at the comments. I sprayed some WD40 on the outside of the head and found loads of air escaping past the spark plug. I didn't want to over-tighten and strip the threads in the head, so I put a viton o-ring under the between the head and the spark plug washer. That improved compression immensely (I now get a lot of bounce back when giving it a turn) but I can still hear a slight leak in the area of the exhaust valve seat. I had originally used some Solvol Autosol to lap the valves - but it is very fine stuff. I've just ordered some ultra lapping paste (1000grit) from Moleroda and I will have another go at lapping when I strip it down for painting. I've not seen any comments of people using this lapping paste, but it comes in a massive range of grits. Hopefully mine will still be OK for a test run. Try some WD40 on the outside of the head and see if you can spot any leaks. James Chaffe is very informative regarding compression.
Let me know how you get on.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Thanks Andrew. I'll try the WD40 trick and see what I can figure out. Cheers!
possibly its a emi problem. i would have a look into grounding. usually the routers come without grounding. a spark plug is like a old fashioned Marconi transmitter that sends out morse code, picked up by everything that conducts. like electrical wires and also shielding in the Ethernet cables etc. as the router does not ground noise, it will overload the delicate circuits that modulate the wifi
Ah - I think you have solved the puzzle. I also have an ethernet cable running through the workshop which connects to the router. Maybe that's been the conductor and panicked the router. That particular solution did generate a really hefty spark.
Many thanks for the explanation.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal the likely cause is the long HT lead, the first coil is meant to fit over the spark plug so everything is shielded inside the metal housing
Hello Andrew,
I like Simon's solution mainly for the LED as it would be useful for the timing and diagnostic/fault finding. I am sure you have planned this but it would be great if all the ignition stuff (battery, LED, Coil, ETC.) where located so they did not take away from the great look of the engine you've built.
Take care
Paul,,
Yeah Paul - assuming I can get it to run, I will need to paint it and put it on a platform to hide all the gubbins.
Watch this space!
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew, looks really good and cant wait to see the end result which im sure wont be long with your pace! Im still way behind as my workshop is frozen and im waiting for the electrician to fit a new fuse board as mine has blown ...too many amps i guess. Have you looked at the Hemingway projects - theres quite a few interesting projects. All the best
Hi Andy - definitely not great weather for working in the workshop. I hope you get the power sorted soon.
I've ordered a couple of books from the US. One is The Shop Wisdom of Philip Duclos which contains a number of plans. If I can get the hit n miss running I might go for a Duclos engine. If it doesn't run I will sell all my gear - ha ha.
Cheers
Andrew
It looks like you found a lower power solution! That VW cylinder coil would have been generating considerable broad spectrum RF noise that would also be annoying your close neighbours if your walls were a bit thinner. Once the plug was enclosed I suspect that it would no longer interfere but the new solution will be lower power anyway, so better from batteries. I am surprised you don't recall the days of analogue TV when you could hear the motorbikes and cars with leaky HT leads heading down the road :~D
Great advice mate. Yeah I do now recall getting TV interference when some cars passed the house. The good old days!
Cheers
Andrew
So how come it doesn't wipe out internet and other delicate systems in the neighbourhood when it is producing sparks for the VW car engine.? Electical noise supression is a requirement on all motor vehicles.
@@howardosborne8647 Yes but that depends on a spark enclosed in a grounded cylinder together with a suppressed lead. Even if the lead is suppressed the spark was open, and those VW coil on cylinder units are very powerful with such a small plug that probably has a lower impedence than a standard car plug. I designed an electronic ignition that used a PIC for a special purpose and that needed a very specific plug to match the coil impedence, as well as extensive opto-isolation and filtering to prevent induced current crashing and ultimately killing the digital electronics.
Just thinking about your WiFi going down during the test with the HEI coil on plug set up. You may have not have been using shealded cable and the hi frequency of the spark drowned out the WiFi. Just a thought. I really enjoy your channel
Thank you Bill Beutler Topeka Ks.
Hi Bill - I think you are correct. A few other comments recon that's the case too.
Glad you like the videos.
All the best and take care mate!
Andrew
Hi,Andrew. I think it undoubtedly some form of electro magnetic or RF noise issue that is interfering with your internet and computer systems. Whether it is generally RF being transmitted through the ether or a spike being transmitted back down the wiring ring main is what you first need to establish. Is the power supply plugged into a socket on the same common ring main as the computer is?
Allan Enot's channel had an issue with a electrical spike from one device interfering with the DRO on his milling machine. He simply separated the 2 onto different ring mains. James Clough also had a couple of videos demonstrating how to remedy unwanted interference noise when he recently installed a Variable Frequency Drive to one of his machines.
Hi Howard - it's all on a separate ring main. However from other comments it appears that interference like this can be quite common. Some suggest that placing the spark plug in the engine might reduce it. However, it's not an issue, now that I've decided to go with the other option.
All the best.
Andrew
Well done Andrew, looking great. Just a small niggle to me, I think that you went a bit OTT with your Big End bearing cap marking, 2 big pop marks showing, just 1 small pop or even a small nick with a knife edge file would have been sufficient. Perhaps on final assembly you can rotate the Conrod so that the marking will be underneath and will not show. Sounds like you had a heater running this time. Stay Safe PLEASE. I am sure that I am not alone and are itching to see this engine run. Will this use unleaded Petrol or will you use Model Aircraft Fuel ? Regards from Australia.
Ha ha Dave - It's a BIG niggle for me! Goodness knows why I marked it up like that. You live and learn and I hope I won't do that again - I plan to sort it out on final assembly. I'm hoping to run it on methanol with a small amount of WD40. I've got some methonal tolerant fuel pipe. Fingers crossed it will work!
Don't get sunburn - it's snowing here :-(
UK has just hit 100,000 covid deaths! Crazy!
All the best and you take care.
Andrew
Another great video Andrew, thank you. Can I ask how you are getting on with the WM18B now? I'm sizing it up alongside the smaller WM16B and the SX2.7 from Sieg. Wondering whether it's a false economy to go for the lighter ones and if I should jump straight to the bigger beast.
Hi - I've got the WM18 - not the belt driven version. It's great! Powerfeed on the x-axis. Large table, lots of room, very accurate. I just hope it will be reliable. Probably better going for the belt driven version if you can get powerfeed on the x-axis. Go as big as you can get, if you have space and budget!
Cheers!
Andrew
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers Craig!
just came from part 19
You need a proper spark plug wire. The plug wires need a high resistance to prevent electromagnetic interference.
Hi Jeremy - I never thought of that. I hadn't got a connector for the rimfire sparkplug so I just extended an HT lead with some thick wire. I've just this minute purchased a connection from minimagneto.co.uk. I hope I will be able to connect the HT lead to that.
Fingers crossed.
Cheers
Andrew
alan thatcher, hi andrew i have built 27 model hit and miss engines and now use tiny small cdi ignition from ebay model engine section 2"x11/2"X1" NIGOSTAR IS supllier comeplete with hall sensor
£18.00 9volt battery hop this helps
Hi Alan - thanks for the info, but searching for that on eBay UK doesn't produce anything. Is the search criteria correct? 27 hit n miss engines would take me about 27 years at my current rate!
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal hi andrew go to ebay put in hit and miss engine model scroll down you will see a yellow box igntion £25.00 gone up a bit run it with a cr123 3 volt lithium battery . go to youtube enter centaur model engine scroll down till you come to alan you will see it running i take the lid of ignition i am useing a micro switch alan
Thanks Alan - I found it! I've made a note of it for future reference. Useful info for others too. I've just checked out your TH-cam video - you have made an absolutely fantastic job of your Centuar model engine. Looks complex but that might well be my next project! I like challenges. Food for thought.
All the best.
Andrew