Finally, with your videos and personal guidance I found the problem. It was the TMAP sensor being faulty causing it to run rich. Want to thank you and let you know that I very much admire your dedication and sacrifice and commitment to educating yourself in your field!! Thanks a million!!!!
I know it's a big disadvantage trying to figure this out without being with the forklift. I really appreciate the help and don't rush getting back on this. I'm in no real hurry. Thanks again.
Been at it for 15 years, and I'm thinking to myself "why in the hell don't I have a spare regulator with lines installed for testing" ! Needless to say, I will tomorrow! Keep the vids coming!
Here is the rest of that message. I'll be brief. I hired the Dealer mechanic. He worked on the lift about 3 hours on two occasions. It is his opinion that it is a carburation or timing issue, but he is unsure what to do next. I downloaded a shop manual for the engine and have the parts manual. I have watched your videos on TH-cam and done the things that were applicable. I replaced the rotor and distributor cap, spark plugs, VR sensor, Coil and Coil wire, and fuel regulator. Not sure what you mean by "mixer". I'm retired (old guy), not in a hurry and don't mind purchasing the necessary parts but I'm completely lost in regards as to what to try or do next. I know you're probably very busy and I can't thank you enough for your time and effort.
Let me back up with a little history. I was in the equipment rental business for about 30 years. I sold the business 13 years ago and the owner just retired and auctioned all the equipment. That is how i came by this forklift. In fact, this is one of the lifts I purchased new. I mention this because during those years in this business, we had rare instances when someone would rent equipment, finish their job then sabotage the equipment equipment,
You are correct. It is a M1-04 system but it has operated on gasoline it's entire life. This weekend I found that the number 2 & 4 plug wires had been reversed at the distributor cap. This has been the problem the entire time. After correcting this, the engine started and idled almost perfectly. I occasionally stall for an instant. I activated the the throttle pedal and no response from the engine. I'm guessing it is operating in "limp home" mode. I turned the key off and restarted it a few ties. About half the time, it starts and idles rough. There is a small amount of black smoke coming from the exhaust but when it idles this way, depressing the trhottle pedal
You're correct, the component after the regulator is basically an injector or EPR as you mentioned which = electronic pressure regulator, it's tied in via the can-bus and has its own processor, temp sensor, pressure sensor and fast acting solenoid.
OK Mr. ForkliftGeek. Initially when I purchased the forklift, I hired a service mechanic representing one of the Oklahoma dealers. He worked on the lift for 4 hours and was unable to fix the problem. I then started my efforts to fix it and started watching your videos. The tech. I hired had zero diagnostic equipment that you use. The unit is running rich. The M1-04 system has ran on gasoline exclusively but I tried a borrowed propane tank and same problem. I realize you are at a huge disadvantage because of distance but I have tried all your suggestions without success. I am now going to have to hire other dealers tech and don't mind pay the repair bill but my question is this. What diagnostic equipment must I insist they have before I hire someone?? Thanks again for all your help and time. I appreciate your efforts!
If it is running the same with lpg then it is probably a sensor that the ecm is reading telling it add fuel. Now, just because I said sensor does not mean it is a faulty sensor. The ecm only understand voltage signals and therefore a change in that signal and the exm will react accordingly. The dealer tech must have the software to communicate with the ecm so that they could figure out which sensor or sensors are not reading correctly. MAP, IAT, coolant temp sensor are high on the list to look at.
OK Mr. ForkliftGeek I did as you instructed. I first removed the oxygen sensor and started the engine. There was no change. I re-installed the sensor and did the vacuum checks. While the engine was cranking and before it started the Hg reading was 4. After the engine started the maximum reading was 15 but I'm not sure the engine reaches normal idle RPM's since it runs so rough. I then took the exhaust manifold off to make sure there were no obstructions. It was fine. I covered the exhaust pipe with my hand and blew compressed air ard the remaining pipe and muffler did not create pressure. Air was moving through that portion seemingly without resistance. Since the exhaust manifold was off, I looked into the exhaust ports. The end of the valve guide and some of the valve was visible. They all had some carbon on them but cylinder 2 and 4 had more and the buildup was irregular or splotchy. The parts of the 2 and 4 valves and guides that ware visible also were wet with oil. What do you think? Thanks again for your time!
The back of the valves being wet is more likely the stem seals. This would cause the engine to burn oil after starting and would eventually go away. It may run bad at start up but would eventually run ok once the oils was burnt out, this does not fit your description of the problem. Since the engine is breathing in and out, and you already confirmed mechanical timing the more likely cause would be spark or fuel. I know you said you already did a tune up and replaced the regulator. If I may ask, did you or someone else replace the mixer?
It is a Daewoo G25E dual fuel forklift. The engine is a Daewoo G424E. Don't know the serial number but I will go see what it is. Take me about an hour. The mixer is original to my knowledge. I have removed it and cleaned it twice. It seems to be two parts. The upper part (held on with 4 tamper resistant screws) with the air valve and where the fuel is introduced whether it is LPG or gasoline. Everything seems in order and the air valve moves freely. The bottom part (held on with 4 bolts to the intake manifold) that contains the TMAP sensor and the Electronic Throttle Control. I removed the TMAP and cleaned it. It appears ok. I took the cover off the ETC and I couldn't see anything that looked irregular. I could move the gear with my finger and that in turn moved the butterfly. I was wondering what metered the amount of fuel the injector delivers?? I will get back to you with that serial number.
When no laptop is available or scope what do you feel the best way to test a fuel solenoid is? Thanks for the videos, I work on Scrubbers and Sweepers and they've been a great help at times on propane systems.
If you are referring to the lock off valve, its usually just on or off so my first tool is a test light. But if its trim valve which the ecm pulses to control the amount of fuel then the oscilloscope is what I would use because a multimeter would only read the average voltage to the solenoid.
Mr. ForkliftGeek I've been working on a G424E engine off and on for the last month and have watched all your TH-cam videos. They have been very helpful but I'm desperate for help. The forklift is a 2006 model with 3,100 operating hours. It has set inside in it's current condition for about 1 year. Roughly half the time it will not start but tries to and when it does start, it runs as if the choke is on. When I push the throttle (cableless), it may speed up minimally but still runs very rough. When it does start it will run a minute or so before dying. While cranking the engine, all cylinders sound the same. It does not sound as if something is different with some cylinders compared to others. The bottom line is when the engine runs, it seems as if the choke is on. There are no error codes displayed. Thinking the problem could be that it was getting excessive fuel, I replace the fuel regulator. No change. I also put fresh fuel in the forklift and changed the fuel filters. While cranking the engine, the injector was pulsating fuel into the carburetor. I unplugged the injector while cranking the engine and the fuel flow stopped. I removed the injector and cleaned and inspected and it appears fine. I also removed and inspected the TMAP sensor and it appears fine. I removed the cover of the Electronic Throttle Body and could move the gears by hand and the butterfly responded. There was no visible damage. To my knowledge although the unis is dual fuel, it has operated exclusively on gasoline. I borrowed a propane forklift tank and connected it. The engine would not start but seemed to be trying to like it does much of the time with gasoline. I removed the carburetor (twice) to inspect and clean. Everything appears as it should and the air valve assembly is moving freely. I have had the Air Horn removed for the duration so it is getting ample air. Thinking it may be a timing issue I replaced the distributor cap an rotor. Adjusted the distributor internal VR sensor as per instructions. Replaced the Smart Coil and coil wire. Replaced the VR sensor that reads the crankshaft position. Checked for possibly missing sprocket teeth on the crankshaft gear that the VR sensor reads to establish the position of the crankshaft. Removed and inspected the timing belt and inspected the crank and cam gears that the timing belt goes on. Everything appears to be just fine. When I put the timing belt back in place I made sure the crank and cam gears were in sync. I replaced the existing spark plugs. The existing plugs were black. I should add that in the month or so of working on this engine the new plugs are now black after maybe 20 total minutes of run time. I have used a visible spark indicator on the #1 plug wire for the duration and have always had spark. Thinking maybe it might be a valve problem I checked the valve lash and as you said they were not adjustable. Thinking maybe the valves were not closing properly I checked the compression on all 4 cylinders. They were all almost identical and very close to the factory specs of 163.5. I have also checked all the fuses. I removed the SECM and tried to open it to inspect the inside by removing the 4 screws. It would not easily open so I was unable to inspect the inside. I contacted 2 Oklahoma and 1 Kansas dealer but none have the capability to test the SECM. I am completely lost as to what to try or replace or inspect at this point. I purchased the forklift knowing of its condition with the hope of repairing it and then selling it. Your knowledge and experience are light years ahead of me and I'm hoping Mr. ForkliftGeek you can help!
Measure the engine vacuum when you are able to make it run. At cranking vacuum should be approx. 5 in Hg. At idle, vacuum should be 17 to 21. Just for giggles, remove the O2 sensor from the bung hole and see if it runs better engine might not be able to exhale.
black smoke from the exhaust and when the engine is running rough, depressing the throttle pedal increases the RPM according. If the pedal is released the engine dies but if it is released slowly it does not. I tried the coil that I had replaced and no change. The distributor cap and rotor are new. Occasionally it seems to take an excessive amount of cranking to start. When it does this I have used brake cleaner and that doesn't seem to help.
OK Mr. ForkliftGeek. The engine starts and idles rough with black smoke in the exhaust (rich). When I shut the key off, the spark at the spark tester continues for about 6 seconds. The engine continues to run during that time and it runs perfectly with no smoke. After about 6 seconds the spark stops and so does the engine. I'm guessing it is something electrical or maybe a sensor. Do you have any thoughts on this? Thanks a million.
Black smoke is becuase one or multiple cylinders is only partially able to burn the fuel that goes in. Clean the spark plugs if you haven't yet. Then if the problem still exists, you have to verify fuel pressure is correct. If it is within specs then a pressure drop test on your injectors should follow. If it was a sensor used by the ecm to determine the amount of fuel then even when using LPG it should be running rich.
OK I checked the fuel pressure. From the pump to the regulator it is 38psi and from the regulator to the injector is rapidly fluctuates between 32psi and 40psi. I'm assuming that is a result of the injector opening and closing. I have looked everywhere but have not found what the pressure should be. Do you know???? It is a M1-04 system but has operated on gasoline its entire existence. THANKS!!
Hi there, i have old Hyster with continental F163 engine which had old BEAM carburetor that had vacuum leak which they are no longer make it, i found the compatible flange Impco CA125 model and fitted on the intake manifold, connected vacuum line and propane line from regulator, but i couldnt get it running, it had loud pop in the carburetor at first try and i tried again after cranking a bit then another loud pop from carburetor. it has new Regulator as well. i think its from the starter fluid flooded in the intake manifold, or its a lean mixture, if anyone can give me a guide how to have it started
Wow thanks a lot for you reply, i changed the head gasket on it, do you think maybe i set the distributor timing wrong? i marked with marker before removed it. also the car did run on starter fluid after head gasket change it doesnt . please help @@forkliftgeek10
genius idea with the stand alone fuel system. I usually pull the intake boot off and squirt some brake cleaner and it (usually) sputters to life and i throttle the brake cleaner until it stays running haha
funny story ran out of gas in the desert we had 2 cans of carb cleaner, my cousin rode in the engine bay of the car with the hood barely clearing his head so i can see and we made it back home
+timothy beavers there is an update video concerning that. The question is if the vaporizer is putting out to much. The ecm is not in control of the vaporizer just the epr. So the concern was if the epr was stuck open, commanded to be fully open, or no control at all.
so did a new regulator fix this? I think i watched 3 videos to do with this forklift and getting confused with the actual answer. Thanks appreciate the videos.
+Forklift Solutions the 3 part video came about because somebody pointed out that the regulator for this system is supposed to put out positive pressure. The last video was a confirmation that the pressure coming out of the faulty regulator was too much compared to a new one.
Currently working on hyster s40xl starter changed new new battery. Running on propane and nothing it does sound like it wants to crank but nothing! What could it else be? Maybe a wire missing or something ?
Then you might be running lean. Meaning the fuel supply is enough to idle but might not be enough when you increase rpm. When you increase the rpm, you open the throttle letting more air in. So, if more air comes in more fuel is needed. Mind you this only one possibility, problem in timing and breathing is also possible.
@@forkliftgeek10 question also what pressure valve should be in line with the high-pressure LP gas range should be set at mine is stuck closed so it would never open if the tank empties need to replace thank you very much
I have a hyster forklift that just cranks swapped its regulator, solenoid, to another hyster and works, swapped the good forklift regulator to the one that cranks and won't start so I know those parts are good any ideas on what could it be? thank you.
You diagnosed this incorrectly unfortunately. EPR controls the fuel. Regulator is dumb and produces at lot of pressure. If you had hooked up the DS GM laptop you would of seen the EPR not working. I can send you software and part number for cables if you like. Hopefully our returned the regulator which wasn’t needed
I beg to differ. One the problem of not starting did not come back, so if it was the DEPR that was the problem wouldn't you say the problem should still exist? Two, if you watch the newer video with an intermittent start it has the same system as this with a depr. The problem with that is a lock off which is much "dumber" than an epr. Thank you for the offer but I do have the software and cable, I don't use it in my videos because not everyone would be able to acquire it. On the other hand you seem to know a lot with forklifts why not share your knowledge by doing your own videos? Insure a lot of people would appreciate it.
@GP MG how does the EPR know how much fuel to deliver during cranking? Using your software does it tell you how much fuel it is delivering at cranking? If it does what unit does it use? I'm not sure we are using the same software. I'm using the impco software not DS GM which I've never seen before.
@@forkliftgeek10 the software is called DST The laptop plugged in gives you a vast amount of information. Gauge page- battery volts.manifold coolant temp pressure.throttle position, RPMs. Firing order. Raw voltage page, independent voltage to each spark plugs. High side low side all your sensors inputs. Service page - mixture LP on EPR. Spark advance. Engine RPM ( page you see if EPR is working) Test page - kill test on plugs . injectors DBA- test Drive by wire test. External power test on relays like fuel power Faults page- historic and active Think fuel is around 14.5 psi normal at regulator
Ok then it is the same software I have. 14.5 psi is too high. I think I explained this in part 2 of this video and showed why it is the regulator on part 3.
09230-U3331-71 is cables part number for spectrum and PSI fuel system which is compatible with any forklift with that engine and fuel systems. I can mail you software mate. You will love it.
Since you.mentioned smart coil, I would assume that this has the MI-04 fuel system. You mentioned that the engine is hard to start, does spraying brake cleaner into the intake makes it start? If not, turn off the tank and spray brake cleaner into the intake and see if it starts. Being that I am not able to see, feel and hear the problem makes it difficult to get a sense of direction on what to attack first, so let's start there.
Finally, with your videos and personal guidance I found the problem. It was the TMAP sensor being faulty causing it to run rich. Want to thank you and let you know that I very much admire your dedication and sacrifice and commitment to educating yourself in your field!! Thanks a million!!!!
I know it's a big disadvantage trying to figure this out without being with the forklift. I really appreciate the help and don't rush getting back on this. I'm in no real hurry. Thanks again.
Been at it for 15 years, and I'm thinking to myself "why in the hell don't I have a spare regulator with lines installed for testing" !
Needless to say, I will tomorrow!
Keep the vids coming!
Here is the rest of that message. I'll be brief. I hired the Dealer mechanic. He worked on the lift about 3 hours on two occasions. It is his opinion that it is a carburation or timing issue, but he is unsure what to do next. I downloaded a shop manual for the engine and have the parts manual. I have watched your videos on TH-cam and done the things that were applicable. I replaced the rotor and distributor cap, spark plugs, VR sensor, Coil and Coil wire, and fuel regulator. Not sure what you mean by "mixer". I'm retired (old guy), not in a hurry and don't mind purchasing the necessary parts but I'm completely lost in regards as to what to try or do next. I know you're probably very busy and I can't thank you enough for your time and effort.
The mixer is the carburetor in a gasoline engine. For LPG engines its called a mixer. What is the brand, model and serial of your forklift?
headed over to the next video in the series. When my Hyster mechanic comes in I will show him this part and see what he thinks. Thanks for posting!
Let me back up with a little history. I was in the equipment rental business for about 30 years. I sold the business 13 years ago and the owner just retired and auctioned all the equipment. That is how i came by this forklift. In fact, this is one of the lifts I purchased new. I mention this because during those years in this business, we had rare instances when someone would rent equipment, finish their job then sabotage the equipment equipment,
You are correct. It is a M1-04 system but it has operated on gasoline it's entire life. This weekend I found that the number 2 & 4 plug wires had been reversed at the distributor cap. This has been the problem the entire time. After correcting this, the engine started and idled almost perfectly. I occasionally stall for an instant. I activated the the throttle pedal and no response from the engine. I'm guessing it is operating in "limp home" mode. I turned the key off and restarted it a few ties. About half the time, it starts and idles rough. There is a small amount of black smoke coming from the exhaust but when it idles this way, depressing the trhottle pedal
You're correct, the component after the regulator is basically an injector or EPR as you mentioned which = electronic pressure regulator, it's tied in via the can-bus and has its own processor, temp sensor, pressure sensor and fast acting solenoid.
+Robert Perry thanks for the info. First time I've seen this set up. I'm used to seeing the tier 2 with the ptv and ftv.
ForkliftGeek Hyundai are used too
ForkliftGeek good video you are really, very smart.
+Antonio Pagan not smart enough, this truck is outsmarting me right now. Gonna do a follow up video.
OK Mr. ForkliftGeek. Initially when I purchased the forklift, I hired a service mechanic representing one of the Oklahoma dealers. He worked on the lift for 4 hours and was unable to fix the problem. I then started my efforts to fix it and started watching your videos. The tech. I hired had zero diagnostic equipment that you use. The unit is running rich. The M1-04 system has ran on gasoline exclusively but I tried a borrowed propane tank and same problem. I realize you are at a huge disadvantage because of distance but I have tried all your suggestions without success. I am now going to have to hire other dealers tech and don't mind pay the repair bill but my question is this. What diagnostic equipment must I insist they have before I hire someone?? Thanks again for all your help and time. I appreciate your efforts!
If it is running the same with lpg then it is probably a sensor that the ecm is reading telling it add fuel. Now, just because I said sensor does not mean it is a faulty sensor. The ecm only understand voltage signals and therefore a change in that signal and the exm will react accordingly. The dealer tech must have the software to communicate with the ecm so that they could figure out which sensor or sensors are not reading correctly. MAP, IAT, coolant temp sensor are high on the list to look at.
OK Mr. ForkliftGeek I did as you instructed. I first removed the oxygen sensor and started the engine. There was no change. I re-installed the sensor and did the vacuum checks. While the engine was cranking and before it started the Hg reading was 4. After the engine started the maximum reading was 15 but I'm not sure the engine reaches normal idle RPM's since it runs so rough. I then took the exhaust manifold off to make sure there were no obstructions. It was fine. I covered the exhaust pipe with my hand and blew compressed air ard the remaining pipe and muffler did not create pressure. Air was moving through that portion seemingly without resistance. Since the exhaust manifold was off, I looked into the exhaust ports. The end of the valve guide and some of the valve was visible. They all had some carbon on them but cylinder 2 and 4 had more and the buildup was irregular or splotchy. The parts of the 2 and 4 valves and guides that ware visible also were wet with oil. What do you think? Thanks again for your time!
The back of the valves being wet is more likely the stem seals. This would cause the engine to burn oil after starting and would eventually go away. It may run bad at start up but would eventually run ok once the oils was burnt out, this does not fit your description of the problem. Since the engine is breathing in and out, and you already confirmed mechanical timing the more likely cause would be spark or fuel. I know you said you already did a tune up and replaced the regulator. If I may ask, did you or someone else replace the mixer?
It is a Daewoo G25E dual fuel forklift. The engine is a Daewoo G424E. Don't know the serial number but I will go see what it is. Take me about an hour. The mixer is original to my knowledge. I have removed it and cleaned it twice. It seems to be two parts. The upper part (held on with 4 tamper resistant screws) with the air valve and where the fuel is introduced whether it is LPG or gasoline. Everything seems in order and the air valve moves freely. The bottom part (held on with 4 bolts to the intake manifold) that contains the TMAP sensor and the Electronic Throttle Control. I removed the TMAP and cleaned it. It appears ok. I took the cover off the ETC and I couldn't see anything that looked irregular. I could move the gear with my finger and that in turn moved the butterfly. I was wondering what metered the amount of fuel the injector delivers?? I will get back to you with that serial number.
When no laptop is available or scope what do you feel the best way to test a fuel solenoid is? Thanks for the videos, I work on Scrubbers and Sweepers and they've been a great help at times on propane systems.
If you are referring to the lock off valve, its usually just on or off so my first tool is a test light. But if its trim valve which the ecm pulses to control the amount of fuel then the oscilloscope is what I would use because a multimeter would only read the average voltage to the solenoid.
@forkliftgeek10 Yes, I'm referring to the lockout between the tank and regular.
Mr. ForkliftGeek I've been working on a G424E engine off and on for the last month and have watched all your TH-cam videos. They have been very helpful but I'm desperate for help. The forklift is a 2006 model with 3,100 operating hours. It has set inside in it's current condition for about 1 year. Roughly half the time it will not start but tries to and when it does start, it runs as if the choke is on. When I push the throttle (cableless), it may speed up minimally but still runs very rough. When it does start it will run a minute or so before dying. While cranking the engine, all cylinders sound the same. It does not sound as if something is different with some cylinders compared to others. The bottom line is when the engine runs, it seems as if the choke is on. There are no error codes displayed.
Thinking the problem could be that it was getting excessive fuel, I replace the fuel regulator. No change. I also put fresh fuel in the forklift and changed the fuel filters. While cranking the engine, the injector was pulsating fuel into the carburetor. I unplugged the injector while cranking the engine and the fuel flow stopped. I removed the injector and cleaned and inspected and it appears fine. I also removed and inspected the TMAP sensor and it appears fine. I removed the cover of the Electronic Throttle Body and could move the gears by hand and the butterfly responded. There was no visible damage. To my knowledge although the unis is dual fuel, it has operated exclusively on gasoline. I borrowed a propane forklift tank and connected it. The engine would not start but seemed to be trying to like it does much of the time with gasoline. I removed the carburetor (twice) to inspect and clean. Everything appears as it should and the air valve assembly is moving freely. I have had the Air Horn removed for the duration so it is getting ample air.
Thinking it may be a timing issue I replaced the distributor cap an rotor. Adjusted the distributor internal VR sensor as per instructions. Replaced the Smart Coil and coil wire. Replaced the VR sensor that reads the crankshaft position. Checked for possibly missing sprocket teeth on the crankshaft gear that the VR sensor reads to establish the position of the crankshaft. Removed and inspected the timing belt and inspected the crank and cam gears that the timing belt goes on. Everything appears to be just fine. When I put the timing belt back in place I made sure the crank and cam gears were in sync. I replaced the existing spark plugs. The existing plugs were black. I should add that in the month or so of working on this engine the new plugs are now black after maybe 20 total minutes of run time. I have used a visible spark indicator on the #1 plug wire for the duration and have always had spark.
Thinking maybe it might be a valve problem I checked the valve lash and as you said they were not adjustable. Thinking maybe the valves were not closing properly I checked the compression on all 4 cylinders. They were all almost identical and very close to the factory specs of 163.5. I have also checked all the fuses.
I removed the SECM and tried to open it to inspect the inside by removing the 4 screws. It would not easily open so I was unable to inspect the inside. I contacted 2 Oklahoma and 1 Kansas dealer but none have the capability to test the SECM.
I am completely lost as to what to try or replace or inspect at this point. I purchased the forklift knowing of its condition with the hope of repairing it and then selling it. Your knowledge and experience are light years ahead of me and I'm hoping Mr. ForkliftGeek you can help!
Measure the engine vacuum when you are able to make it run. At cranking vacuum should be approx. 5 in Hg. At idle, vacuum should be 17 to 21. Just for giggles, remove the O2 sensor from the bung hole and see if it runs better engine might not be able to exhale.
@@forkliftgeek10 OK. I'll do that tomorrow and let you know the results. Thanks so much!!!!
What is "IAT"? Not finding that in my manual.
Intake air temperature, if it is equipped.
black smoke from the exhaust and when the engine is running rough, depressing the throttle pedal increases the RPM according. If the pedal is released the engine dies but if it is released slowly it does not. I tried the coil that I had replaced and no change. The distributor cap and rotor are new. Occasionally it seems to take an excessive amount of cranking to start. When it does this I have used brake cleaner and that doesn't seem to help.
Ok. That sounds like you have an excess of fuel.
OK Mr. ForkliftGeek. The engine starts and idles rough with black smoke in the exhaust (rich). When I shut the key off, the spark at the spark tester continues for about 6 seconds. The engine continues to run during that time and it runs perfectly with no smoke. After about 6 seconds the spark stops and so does the engine. I'm guessing it is something electrical or maybe a sensor. Do you have any thoughts on this? Thanks a million.
Black smoke is becuase one or multiple cylinders is only partially able to burn the fuel that goes in. Clean the spark plugs if you haven't yet. Then if the problem still exists, you have to verify fuel pressure is correct. If it is within specs then a pressure drop test on your injectors should follow. If it was a sensor used by the ecm to determine the amount of fuel then even when using LPG it should be running rich.
OK I checked the fuel pressure. From the pump to the regulator it is 38psi and from the regulator to the injector is rapidly fluctuates between 32psi and 40psi. I'm assuming that is a result of the injector opening and closing. I have looked everywhere but have not found what the pressure should be. Do you know???? It is a M1-04 system but has operated on gasoline its entire existence. THANKS!!
Approx. 39 psi
The message I just sent was about 3 paragraphs long. Are you getting all this?
Hi there, i have old Hyster with continental F163 engine which had old BEAM carburetor that had vacuum leak which they are no longer make it, i found the compatible flange Impco CA125 model and fitted on the intake manifold, connected vacuum line and propane line from regulator, but i couldnt get it running, it had loud pop in the carburetor at first try and i tried again after cranking a bit then another loud pop from carburetor. it has new Regulator as well. i think its from the starter fluid flooded in the intake manifold, or its a lean mixture, if anyone can give me a guide how to have it started
Looks like ignition related from your description.
Wow thanks a lot for you reply, i changed the head gasket on it, do you think maybe i set the distributor timing wrong? i marked with marker before removed it. also the car did run on starter fluid after head gasket change it doesnt . please help @@forkliftgeek10
@waltisawsome3651 set TDC cylinder one and time distributor, install plug wires according to firing order.
genius idea with the stand alone fuel system. I usually pull the intake boot off and squirt some brake cleaner and it (usually) sputters to life and i throttle the brake cleaner until it stays running haha
+Alex Romo yeah I used to do that as well. This truck is not done yet gonna do a follow up video on this.
funny story ran out of gas in the desert we had 2 cans of carb cleaner, my cousin rode in the engine bay of the car with the hood barely clearing his head so i can see and we made it back home
+Alex Romo that would have made a great video. Lol.😄 glad you guys are safe back home.
so how did you determine that you had a problem with CPR being commanded for too much fuel versus the epr itself being bad
+timothy beavers there is an update video concerning that. The question is if the vaporizer is putting out to much. The ecm is not in control of the vaporizer just the epr. So the concern was if the epr was stuck open, commanded to be fully open, or no control at all.
so did a new regulator fix this? I think i watched 3 videos to do with this forklift and getting confused with the actual answer. Thanks appreciate the videos.
+Forklift Solutions yes
+Forklift Solutions the 3 part video came about because somebody pointed out that the regulator for this system is supposed to put out positive pressure. The last video was a confirmation that the pressure coming out of the faulty regulator was too much compared to a new one.
awesome thanks, currently spending the day watching all your vids!
+Forklift Solutions hope you enjoy them. Cheers.
Currently working on hyster s40xl starter changed new new battery. Running on propane and nothing it does sound like it wants to crank but nothing! What could it else be? Maybe a wire missing or something ?
Measure the current that the starter is drawing and the voltage drop on the battery. Are u able to turn the engine by putting a wrench on the crank?
ForkliftGeek dont know how to rewire the starter
Question
what if it starts and Idols but cannot increase rpm without it stalling
Then you might be running lean. Meaning the fuel supply is enough to idle but might not be enough when you increase rpm. When you increase the rpm, you open the throttle letting more air in. So, if more air comes in more fuel is needed. Mind you this only one possibility, problem in timing and breathing is also possible.
It must be the reg. if I score gas down the carburetor I can rub it up so I’m thinking it’s not getting off LP
@@forkliftgeek10 question also what pressure valve should be in line with the high-pressure LP gas range should be set at mine is stuck closed so it would never open if the tank empties need to replace thank you very much
What truck are talking about?
@@forkliftgeek10 Hyster S30A
I have a hyster forklift that just cranks swapped its regulator, solenoid, to another hyster and works, swapped the good forklift regulator to the one that cranks and won't start so I know those parts are good any ideas on what could it be? thank you.
What engine is in it?
@@forkliftgeek10 it's an Impco 2.2 L
Is it a mazda or GM engine?
@@forkliftgeek10 it's a Mazda.
This might help. th-cam.com/video/YRXZn65Vguk/w-d-xo.html
You diagnosed this incorrectly unfortunately. EPR controls the fuel. Regulator is dumb and produces at lot of pressure. If you had hooked up the DS GM laptop you would of seen the EPR not working. I can send you software and part number for cables if you like.
Hopefully our returned the regulator which wasn’t needed
I beg to differ. One the problem of not starting did not come back, so if it was the DEPR that was the problem wouldn't you say the problem should still exist? Two, if you watch the newer video with an intermittent start it has the same system as this with a depr. The problem with that is a lock off which is much "dumber" than an epr. Thank you for the offer but I do have the software and cable, I don't use it in my videos because not everyone would be able to acquire it. On the other hand you seem to know a lot with forklifts why not share your knowledge by doing your own videos? Insure a lot of people would appreciate it.
@GP MG how does the EPR know how much fuel to deliver during cranking? Using your software does it tell you how much fuel it is delivering at cranking? If it does what unit does it use? I'm not sure we are using the same software. I'm using the impco software not DS GM which I've never seen before.
@@forkliftgeek10 the software is called DST
The laptop plugged in gives you a vast amount of information.
Gauge page- battery volts.manifold coolant temp pressure.throttle position, RPMs. Firing order.
Raw voltage page, independent voltage to each spark plugs. High side low side all your sensors inputs.
Service page - mixture LP on EPR. Spark advance. Engine RPM ( page you see if EPR is working)
Test page - kill test on plugs .
injectors
DBA- test Drive by wire test.
External power test on relays like fuel power
Faults page- historic and active
Think fuel is around 14.5 psi normal at regulator
Ok then it is the same software I have. 14.5 psi is too high. I think I explained this in part 2 of this video and showed why it is the regulator on part 3.
09230-U3331-71 is cables part number for spectrum and PSI fuel system which is compatible with any forklift with that engine and fuel systems.
I can mail you software mate. You will love it.
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Daewoo Model G25E-3 Serial #KP-00505
Since you.mentioned smart coil, I would assume that this has the MI-04 fuel system. You mentioned that the engine is hard to start, does spraying brake cleaner into the intake makes it start? If not, turn off the tank and spray brake cleaner into the intake and see if it starts. Being that I am not able to see, feel and hear the problem makes it difficult to get a sense of direction on what to attack first, so let's start there.
Hallo