You can really help the future success of my channel by clicking the link below to subscribe, it's free and I will greatly appreciate it! th-cam.com/users/RyansWorkshop
Thank you so much for this video, I’ve done my rear pads today and thanks to this video the job was very easy and straightforward! Audi quoted me £425 to change the rear pads! I bought brembo pads for £47 and used this video to fit them myself! Thank you!
Really appreciate this video - helped me to change my rear discs/pads without buying the software etc for connecting to the computer. Worked brilliantly. Only thing I could mention to make the instructions better was that those plugs were a bit difficult to get off: I couldn't really figure them out and ended up breaking the catch on one of the electronic brake plugs. You made it look so easy! Plus, the bolts holding on the caliper housing that needed to be removed to change the discs were a complete b**ch to get off. It took two of us one pushing/other pulling to unloosen them due to the lock-tight compound.
Awesome! Just followed your instructions, except for the following deviations. 1) The wear sensor was only present on the left rear brakes. 2) I didn't have a 7mm hex socket, so I used a standard 7mm allen wrench to back out the electric parking brake motor. 3) I applied grease on the both sides of the clips to provide lubrication on the brake side, and sound deadening on the caliper side. Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video, fyi, it was the first one that came up for audi c7 brakes and I wont need anymore to be honest. Clear and concise. Thank you. now subscribed etc ..
This video was very helpful, saved me a lot of money on garage prices. The only thing I needed to do differently was get an adjustable spanner on the other end of the 13mm bolt to stop it from turning and undo the bolt. Just wanted to say Thankyou for a useful video 👍🏻
Thanks. Although I have struggled to compress the coil spring like it would've been for airplane, not for a car.. it took me just 5 hours but everything is in order 😂 thanks again.
Very easy-follow description on how to change pads without Diagnostic equipment. This method can be used if your Diagnostic equipment will not communicate or will not put your rear brakes into service mode.. Without Diagnostic equipment you will see where he removes the brake motor and manually turns it back to open mode and it is as simple as pumping your brakes and turning on and off your handbrake switch a few times for it to calibrate to the new pads and disc. Well worth subscribing to this channel.
Well done, a very clear a precise instruction video. Thanks you’ve given me the confidence do do as never had to do disc and pads with an electric parking brake. Thanks. I’ve subscribed
Ryan your videos are the best- one request: could you cover where jack stands should go on a C7 Audi? I’m nervous for so many reasons and there isn’t any guidance out there that I’ve found
There are plastic covers underneath the sills. Pop the retaining clips in the middle of the cover out with a flat head screw driver and then remove the covers. This will expose the jacking points.
Thanks for the very clear and informative video, but unfortunately I fell at the first fence when I tried on our 2013 A6 c7 because I could not get the parking brake to stay off. As soon as I switch off the ignition the parking brake automatically comes on again. The handbook describes a way to disactivate it but when I follow the various steps I find that the disactivation option on the final screen doesn't exist! Any ideas?
Awesome! Thanks! :) Just didn't get when to close the cap on the parking break.. Before or after pumping the break pedal and engaging the parking break?
Great video 👍 going to do mine next weekend now I know how to back off the electric motor. Would you know how to eliminate the squeak from the motors.? Everytime I use my handbrake it makes a loud squeak I've seen loads of Audi's doing the same thing. Its driving me mad.!
Thank you, to be honest I haven't encountered the squeaky motor issue, I could only suggest lubricating all of the moving parts on the motor and the caliper where you retract it with the Allen key.
@@RyansWorkshop i managed to change my rear disc and pads on Sunday, and after putting it all back together the noisy brakes are no more 👍 I would say because the pads were so worn the motor had to travel further so maybe that was causing the noise. I wouldn't mind a garage quoted me €650 to replace the motors.!!! Gonna tackle the front brakes and control arms as soon as they arrive.
Hello ladd, great video. I have a 2009 Audi A4, I replaced the pads. I reversed polarity and moved the electric parking brake back for install and after moved toward to snug onto the pad. But I have the brake parking light flashing. Do I have to drive it for it to recalibrate? Did u do it wrong? Cheers mate from NYC 2022
Thank you very much. My oldest granddaughter has one of these awful Audi's as we used to lovingly call them back when I wrenched for a living which was in the 80's. The biggest pain was the bolts into the sliders. My oldest son & I had to admit it was a bit of genius being able to retract the motor manually. When I saw the outer side of the piston w the 3 notches, visions of having to turn them in like Subaru's micro turning pistons flashed b4 my eyes. But thankfully some of that old German engineering poked its head thru the clouds. Siskel & Ebert say 👍👍! 😁
You forgot the grease and I messed up on my piston caliper I did counter clockwise and boom a bunch of oil comes out I was pissed 😤 now I have a rip on my rubber sleeve etc
The need for grease has diminished in recent years in line with advances in shim technology, In fact, its use could have the opposite effect, preventing the shim, the basis of quiet braking, from doing its job. Most modern brake pads are now supplied with noise fix shims and do not require the use of grease, it could actually be detrimental to their performance, the correct grease should only ever be applied to the moving parts of the caliper.
Hi Ryan, just about to change the rear pads on my C7 model. First time doing a change with an electronic handbrake. Do I need to recalibrate the electronic motor after each side or can you do it at the end after changing both sides? (Changing them without the diagnostics). TIA 👍
The need for grease has diminished in recent years in line with advances in shim technology, In fact, its use could have the opposite effect, preventing the shim, the basis of quiet braking, from doing its job. Most modern brake pads are now supplied with noise fix shims and do not require the use of grease, it could actually be detrimental to their performance, the correct grease should only ever be applied to the moving parts of the caliper.
@@RyansWorkshop do you know what is recommended? Iv just bought a 2015 A6 Avant C7, my brakes squeal like a stuck pig when I'm off the brakes, they stop when I am on. When I look through the alloys they are bone dry of any lubricant, but the hardware/shims/springs are dirty. Pads look fairly new as are the disks. Any advice on what to do? Iv not had a car with these shims/hardware before and the Internet is awash with a mix of advice and information
On my other cars without the hardware shims I use ceramic brake grease on the ears and behind the pads and red rubber grease in the sliders, copper grease behind the alloys and threads I don't want sticking for some background info. Do I just carry on with the same here is the basis of my question 😁
There are various reasons why they can squeal, but if they're squealing when you're off the brakes I would say they need to be inspected closer, something don't sound right, I would say to check if the the shims and pads are seated correctly, check if the anti vibration spring is fitted correctly, and also inspect the brake hoses to make sure they haven't been twisted when previously fitted, I would suggest giving the calipers a good clean up as well to make sure there isn't any dirt or debris trapped somewhere it shouldn't be, it would be a good opportunity to lubricate the sliders as dry sticking sliders have also been know to cause squeal by not allowing the pads to release when lifting off the brakes, hope you have some luck with sorting it 👍
in this German video you can see how you deactivate the electronic handbrake, 1:push brake pedal, 2:start 3:push handbrake button down and push start again so motor stops running, hold 4 couple seconds and you good to go. th-cam.com/video/r7j-MCm7u34/w-d-xo.html
You can really help the future success of my channel by clicking the link below to subscribe, it's free and I will greatly appreciate it!
th-cam.com/users/RyansWorkshop
Dont usually comment on videos, but you sir, are a life saver today. Subscribed.
Thanks, happy I could help
Thank you so much for this video, I’ve done my rear pads today and thanks to this video the job was very easy and straightforward! Audi quoted me £425 to change the rear pads! I bought brembo pads for £47 and used this video to fit them myself! Thank you!
Happy I could help
Good job, especially when you're holding the camera in one hand and working with the other, would like to see more a6 c7 content, cheers
Thank you 👍 I'm sure there'll be more A6 content in the future.
Really appreciate this video - helped me to change my rear discs/pads without buying the software etc for connecting to the computer. Worked brilliantly. Only thing I could mention to make the instructions better was that those plugs were a bit difficult to get off: I couldn't really figure them out and ended up breaking the catch on one of the electronic brake plugs. You made it look so easy!
Plus, the bolts holding on the caliper housing that needed to be removed to change the discs were a complete b**ch to get off. It took two of us one pushing/other pulling to unloosen them due to the lock-tight compound.
Thank you, glad I could help, and yes they can be really tight sometimes unfortunately
The tip to mechanically retract the parking brake is brilliant. Just purchased an OBD11, and now kinda wish I'd saved the money
Thank you
Awesome! Just followed your instructions, except for the following deviations. 1) The wear sensor was only present on the left rear brakes. 2) I didn't have a 7mm hex socket, so I used a standard 7mm allen wrench to back out the electric parking brake motor. 3) I applied grease on the both sides of the clips to provide lubrication on the brake side, and sound deadening on the caliper side.
Thank you very much!
Did it on the 2018 A6 Allroad. Worked out. Thanks much
Happy I could help
Thanks for the video, fyi, it was the first one that came up for audi c7 brakes and I wont need anymore to be honest. Clear and concise. Thank you. now subscribed etc ..
Thank you, Great to hear!
This video was very helpful, saved me a lot of money on garage prices. The only thing I needed to do differently was get an adjustable spanner on the other end of the 13mm bolt to stop it from turning and undo the bolt. Just wanted to say Thankyou for a useful video 👍🏻
Glad I could help, thanks
Ryan,you awesomely fantastic!
I like your passion of this DIY as you demonstrate from the very beginning to end,thank you so much🙏
Thank you 😁
Very informative. Clearly explained and easy to follow. Extra points for the England fridge in the background in your workshop 👏🏼👏🏼💯
Thank you
Appreciate the video mate. Helped me do my car 👍
Happy I could help
Thanks. Although I have struggled to compress the coil spring like it would've been for airplane, not for a car.. it took me just 5 hours but everything is in order 😂 thanks again.
Happy I could help
Very easy-follow description on how to change pads without Diagnostic equipment. This method can be used if your Diagnostic equipment will not communicate or will not put your rear brakes into service mode.. Without Diagnostic equipment you will see where he removes the brake motor and manually turns it back to open mode and it is as simple as pumping your brakes and turning on and off your handbrake switch a few times for it to calibrate to the new pads and disc. Well worth subscribing to this channel.
Thank you, glad I could help
Well done, a very clear a precise instruction video. Thanks you’ve given me the confidence do do as never had to do disc and pads with an electric parking brake. Thanks. I’ve subscribed
Thank you, happy I could help
Must be quite tricky to do it one hand! Thanks for video!
It can be 😏 but glad I could help.
Ryan your videos are the best- one request: could you cover where jack stands should go on a C7 Audi? I’m nervous for so many reasons and there isn’t any guidance out there that I’ve found
Thank you, yes this is something I can cover in the near future
@@RyansWorkshop Really look forward to it- you get right to the point as with dealing with the EPB without the diagnostic tools! I salute you, Sir!
There are plastic covers underneath the sills. Pop the retaining clips in the middle of the cover out with a flat head screw driver and then remove the covers. This will expose the jacking points.
Thank you! I’ll give that a try. I wondered about how Ryan puts the jacks under the subframe and how to do that as in this video
This helped me alot. Thank you! ❤
Happy I could help
With OBD I can skip the process with manual retracting clipper, so all piston will be In properly position to put back caliper on?
Thanks for the very clear and informative video, but unfortunately I fell at the first fence when I tried on our 2013 A6 c7 because I could not get the parking brake to stay off. As soon as I switch off the ignition the parking brake automatically comes on again. The handbook describes a way to disactivate it but when I follow the various steps I find that the disactivation option on the final screen doesn't exist! Any ideas?
Did you manage it mate, as I am stuck there mate. Can you help
Got the same problem here. (i got keyless ignition)
take out parking brake motor when its on caliper, then take out caliper
One of the best clearly explained view I have seen so far. Thank you!
Thank you 👍
Great vid… but how are the state of those callipers!! 🥺
Yeah tell me about, I don't think the previous owners bothered to keep the car clean
Awesome! Thanks! :) Just didn't get when to close the cap on the parking break.. Before or after pumping the break pedal and engaging the parking break?
Thank you, it's better to pump the brake pedal first!
great video. my ocd is going crazy though that you didnt wire brush the caliper area once all put back together to clean it up a bit!
Thanks, and things like cleaning up I will usually do off camera as I like to keep the videos short and to the point.
Thanks, this helped a lot since my VCDS software is too old for my car....
Glad I could help
Great video 👍 going to do mine next weekend now I know how to back off the electric motor.
Would you know how to eliminate the squeak from the motors.?
Everytime I use my handbrake it makes a loud squeak I've seen loads of Audi's doing the same thing. Its driving me mad.!
Thank you, to be honest I haven't encountered the squeaky motor issue, I could only suggest lubricating all of the moving parts on the motor and the caliper where you retract it with the Allen key.
@@RyansWorkshop i managed to change my rear disc and pads on Sunday, and after putting it all back together the noisy brakes are no more 👍
I would say because the pads were so worn the motor had to travel further so maybe that was causing the noise. I wouldn't mind a garage quoted me €650 to replace the motors.!!!
Gonna tackle the front brakes and control arms as soon as they arrive.
Happy you sorted it, Plus I have other video's already covering the front brakes and control arms that might be of some help to you!
Great video, would this be the same for a A6 C6 avante ?
I think this would be very similar but I'd have to confirm it
Hi!
Do i need to calibrate rhe calipers after replacement of pads in any way or is it just set the calipers out of service mode and be done?
//Fredde
If you used diagnostics to retract the handbrake motors it's ready to go once you've taken it out of service mode
Top notch tutorial, well put 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you
Most informative vid yet. Thank you. I subscribed cause of it. Would this kind of method work on other vehicles with epb systems??
Thank you, and possibly, it's all down to the design of the system.
Hello ladd, great video. I have a 2009 Audi A4, I replaced the pads. I reversed polarity and moved the electric parking brake back for install and after moved toward to snug onto the pad. But I have the brake parking light flashing. Do I have to drive it for it to recalibrate? Did u do it wrong? Cheers mate from NYC 2022
It sounds like it triggered an error in the ECU when you reversed the polarity, the error will probably need clearing with an obd 2 reader
How did you get so much rust? I live in the rust belt in the us and even my 320k mile 4Runner doesn’t have rust like this
Thank you very much. My oldest granddaughter has one of these awful Audi's as we used to lovingly call them back when I wrenched for a living which was in the 80's. The biggest pain was the bolts into the sliders. My oldest son & I had to admit it was a bit of genius being able to retract the motor manually. When I saw the outer side of the piston w the 3 notches, visions of having to turn them in like Subaru's micro turning pistons flashed b4 my eyes.
But thankfully some of that old German engineering poked its head thru the clouds.
Siskel & Ebert say 👍👍!
😁
:)
Awesome video, thank you. 1st time changing Brakes on my own and it was made super easy 👌
Thank you, glad I could help
You forgot the grease and I messed up on my piston caliper I did counter clockwise and boom a bunch of oil comes out I was pissed 😤 now I have a rip on my rubber sleeve etc
How about the calibration
I mention that in the video
Looks like he found that C7 at the bottom of a lake! Still, great tutorial.
Ryan when ya did that spine with h7 did ya get leave it as it was!!
Yes, because when you refit the motor and caliper and apply the handbrake on and off a couple of times it will re reference itself
Very helpful mate !!!
Happy to help
Do you do clockwise for both pistons!! Cheers
Yes 👍
I notice you did not use any copper grease or anti squeal paste
The need for grease has diminished in recent years in line with advances in shim technology, In fact, its use could have the opposite effect, preventing the shim, the basis of quiet braking, from doing its job.
Most modern brake pads are now supplied with noise fix shims and do not require the use of grease, it could actually be detrimental to their performance, the correct grease should only ever be applied to the moving parts of the caliper.
Very good video.
Thank you
Hi Ryan, just about to change the rear pads on my C7 model. First time doing a change with an electronic handbrake. Do I need to recalibrate the electronic motor after each side or can you do it at the end after changing both sides? (Changing them without the diagnostics). TIA 👍
Yes you can do them both at the end after changing both sides 👍
My master❤
Thanks
Very good. Thank you.
Happy I could help
Do you not put any ceramic/copper grease on the ears and rear of the brake pads?
The need for grease has diminished in recent years in line with advances in shim technology, In fact, its use could have the opposite effect, preventing the shim, the basis of quiet braking, from doing its job.
Most modern brake pads are now supplied with noise fix shims and do not require the use of grease, it could actually be detrimental to their performance, the correct grease should only ever be applied to the moving parts of the caliper.
@@RyansWorkshop do you know what is recommended? Iv just bought a 2015 A6 Avant C7, my brakes squeal like a stuck pig when I'm off the brakes, they stop when I am on. When I look through the alloys they are bone dry of any lubricant, but the hardware/shims/springs are dirty. Pads look fairly new as are the disks. Any advice on what to do? Iv not had a car with these shims/hardware before and the Internet is awash with a mix of advice and information
On my other cars without the hardware shims I use ceramic brake grease on the ears and behind the pads and red rubber grease in the sliders, copper grease behind the alloys and threads I don't want sticking for some background info. Do I just carry on with the same here is the basis of my question 😁
There are various reasons why they can squeal, but if they're squealing when you're off the brakes I would say they need to be inspected closer, something don't sound right, I would say to check if the the shims and pads are seated correctly, check if the anti vibration spring is fitted correctly, and also inspect the brake hoses to make sure they haven't been twisted when previously fitted, I would suggest giving the calipers a good clean up as well to make sure there isn't any dirt or debris trapped somewhere it shouldn't be, it would be a good opportunity to lubricate the sliders as dry sticking sliders have also been know to cause squeal by not allowing the pads to release when lifting off the brakes, hope you have some luck with sorting it 👍
No coper grece on the shims
Followed the video and my brakes don’t work even after bleeding them 😭
Actually you can wind in callipers with any diagnostic computer
At no point did I say you couldn't, but the purpose of this video is for people who don't have diagnostic equipment!
วงจร😅ไฟขอบคุณครับ....a6 c5
in this German video you can see how you deactivate the electronic handbrake, 1:push brake pedal, 2:start 3:push handbrake button down and push start again so motor stops running, hold 4 couple seconds and you good to go. th-cam.com/video/r7j-MCm7u34/w-d-xo.html