Appreciate the rundown. I'm adding mine between my D3400 and my 64ah headway lithium bank. But I'm gonna run mine off a switch, so I can run them together when I want.
I do a 1995 and want to add two batteries to start and two marina batteries and I took out of an old RV the cables I need and didn’t coast me nothing! It ran the battery and generator which had I not sold it I would install it on the truck for power dang it ‼️
Thanks for checking out the video. I have a 1999 Yukon that I want to do a dual battery set up as well. I’m thinking about changing the motor to a 6.0 first and then do the dual batteries then.
Man appreciate your videos, what length and gauge of wire did you use from the NVM isolator tapped into your fuse box?? I’m waiting for my 2000 Suburban to come out of the shop, so I can start! Got my 1/0 AWG wires ready for the Big upgrade (4-7)!!
Thanks for checking out the video. The gauge wire I used was 14gauge I think. As far as the length I’m not sure I just brought a spool and just ran it start and the fuse box.
I your going to run a big lithium bank/lith batt---its a good idea to run a isolator --In my case I have group 34 and a 31,with an isolator I would only have the power of the 31 BAD idea--Without I have both.LOL just dont let your batteries go dead.Its bad in alot of different ways.-----Ether way NICE install and video!!
Thanks for checking out the video. I don’t need two batteries to power the car that’s why I separated them. Heck my battery dies all the time because I rarely drive the truck or even crank it up. I need to get better with that.
200 amp fuses and such thick wire. Are you running a system? I went 50 and 60 amp breakers with 8 gauge. Wanted the breakers to pop before frying the computer/causing a fire. New alternator, you're running aftermarket for that. Me, winter beater, just factory in mine. Though I couldn't resist and brought the 5.3 up to 360bhp with some front lockers :) Only aftermarket stuff I do is for flying RC/Drones/Camping. I'd say you've got a good install save your secondary batt ground is too long. Keep it under a foot if you can.
Anytime you upgrade your charging system it’s recommended to go with a big gauge wire. I’m running a 400amp alternator and two battery which needs the most current available to pass through. In all honesty a 8 gauge wire on a stock alternator is not sufficient enough. We all have our thoughts and inputs on aftermarket part but that where the research comes into play. Some aftermarket parts are made better then the factory parts, but it works for me and I’m seeing a difference with the upgrade.
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE -- Curious what you're running on that. I did run main 4 gauge, so I get what your saying, but after the distribution block, I went eight. I need it to start and overland in the snow. Again, 200 amp is a welder. For a moment, but enough to fry your modules. I've run two, one farad caps and three ZX 400 audio amps off a 50 amp system. For 12 inch woofers DVC and components. What you would need with that kind of power gives me a sinking feeling. I think you're running hydros. A tow truck I would get. Hope I'm wrong. That said, if you are, great way to destroy your ride quality, shake your vehicle apart, and fry your electronics. Again, hope I'm wrong, and glad to apologies if I am. But if I'm right, you just dropped a nuke on your vehicle.
Thanks for checking out the video. Mine has been doing good it hasn’t swelled or anything. But I haven’t been using it either. I just ran two amps to it last month
My 2013 Tahoe has the primary battery set up opposite of yours. Came with a 175A in line fuse from the Alt. Figured ill just add 1 more of the same fuse towards the iso, then add a similar 175A fuse branching off of the secondary battery. Im trying to figure out which iso i should get though.. is yours still running strong today? Does it automatically engage if your primary battery dies? Beautiful install man 👍🏻 Going to do the big 3 install before i install the dual battery set up. Any input would be helpful.
Thanks for checking out the video. So from my experience with my second battery is it does not crank the car if the main battery goes dead. It could be because of the ISO. So if you are wanting the second battery to engage if the first one dies do it without the ISO. I seen dual battery installs where they didn’t use an ISO. I just did the ISO to have a separate battery just for my system. So when doing your big three if you already have a 175amp fuse then you can match that one if you use an ISO if you don’t use one then you won’t need another fuse. For running your wire just route them so they are out of the way and if you have a system go ahead and upgrade the alternator wire to zero gauge. I didn’t do it in my video because I haven’t installed my system but will definitely do it. Definitely appreciate you check out the video if you have any question’s definitely ask
I have a question... why did you choose to go with 200 amp fuses. I plan to do the Big 3, install my 400 amp Mechman billet-faced altenator, and incorporate a dual battery setup. But, I have been wondering what amperage my fuses should be. I have been thinking about 300 amp or 350 amp fuses, but I'm not sure. By the way, I have a 2009 Cadillac Escalade EXT... my factory setup is identical to yours, except your 2nd battery is my main battery.
Thanks for checking out the video. I went with the 200amp fuse from just researching dual battery installs majority of my search’s came up with people using a 200amp. But also I have found that a 300 amp fuse will work as well. The fuse so match closely to the alternator size
I'm wondering the exact same thing. I want to run power to the rear of my 03 Tahoe for a winch and to expand audio amplifiers under the 2nd row seat. I'm thinking about routing the 0/1 gauge power wire along the frame and then drilling a hole and coming up through the "bed" area sheet metal up under the back driver's side plastic cover where the sub box and jack are where I will have a distribution block going to the amplifiers and continuing the run or 0/1 gauge wire out to the rear of the Tahoe gate where I can plug it into my winch with Anderson plugs, or to also have auxiliary power at the back of the rig. I understand winches need in excess of 400 amps. Do you guys have any recommendations on the type and amperage of fuse I would need and where to fuse the run of 0/1 gauge wire?
Thanks for checking out the video. So I’m not sure what size fuses you would need, but I would definitely put one close to the battery for you amp and one in the back as well. Now I did some research about the winch and people are saying it’s no need to fuse the winch. I would recommend running dual batteries one for the winch and one for the car and system
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE Alright buddy, I appreciate your reply! I really like your channel, so I had to subscribe! Man, I've been in research mode today, and I'm getting my mind blown! So I contacted Warn, SmittyBilt, and Rough Country Winches, and they're all telling me that they run 2ga wire to power their winches, in fact, Warn and Rough Country both have 24' "jumper cables" with Anderson plugs on either end to actually power their winches, and they all tell me they've never had an issue with those cables failing. I know on a 12,000 winch @ a 9500 lb. load the winch will be drawing 480 amps. So I ask the gal at Warn then how can the wires support the amperage? She then commences to tell me that they've never had their 2ga cables fail in a 24 ft. run with all of their consumer 4x4 type winches. The dude with Rough Country told me the exact same thing. The amperage chart with EWCS welding wire says their 1/0 gauge wire can support 400 Amps @ 25 ft. I guess if the folks selling the winches says the 2ga cables will work, then I guess they will work, haha! I'm running 0/1ga EWCS welding cable to the rear to power everything. I'm sure it's probably overkill, but I'd rather have it too much than too little! Man, I'm envious of your battery!! Man, those things are supposed to be awesome! Do you like yours?
I definitely appreciate you for checking out and subscribing to the channel. Im definitely that dyi channel that is looking to expand my abilities. I read as well that they only use 2ga wire which was a shocker to me. The only thing that recommended me to say put the winch on a separate battery is that I read was that the winch could drain your battery quickly. With my batteries I really haven’t got to test them yet. I’m getting everything in line for my system and wheel light install. Which will all run off of that second battery.
Thanks for checking out the video. If you are talking about the fuse blocks I ordered them from Amazon here’s the link www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MYGIR2C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Here’s my question can I use any battery for my audio or does it have to be a lithium or deep cycle because I have a extra battery from my 07 cord fusion it’s only a year old I plan to use that for my 2nd battery for my music and of course I have a isolator my main battery is a duralast from AutoZone it a 07 Yukon factory alternator
What if I run a power wire from the second battery directly to my alternator instead of using a isolator and running a power wire from my main battery will that work
Thanks for checking out the video. I seen some videos that did not use the isolator. I will send you one once I find it. I just use the iso to keep the batteries separated
So when the car is off the isolator disconnects the primary battery from the secondary battery so the secondary battery is not feeding nothing on the off position ?
I have an 200 amp fuse on each side of the isolator. That way if any type of failure happen on any side off the isolator it will blow the fuse and cut of power so further damage won’t be done
Thanks for checking out the video. I tapped into a fuse that gets power when the ignition is on can’t remember which one but I think I say which fuse in beginning of the video.
Thanks for checking out the video. From what I see the 3100 is slightly bigger. So I’m not sure it would fit. You would probably have to test fit it and see if the hood would close properly
No problem at all. I’ve seen it done in the stock location as well. I think the 3100 sits a little over 1in higher than the 3400. Which shouldn’t make that big of a difference
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE ok i was confused. Thanks for getting back. I have a similar set up but my volts to my amp are dropping too low to 11 from my extra battery, so trying to figure that out.
I have been looking for ideas for this to run my HF 100 watt rig. Nice clean install. Very educational!
Appreciate it. I plan on using the second battery for my add on’s and optima battery’s are just better then the standard battery’s
Appreciate the rundown. I'm adding mine between my D3400 and my 64ah headway lithium bank. But I'm gonna run mine off a switch, so I can run them together when I want.
No problem at all I appreciate you tuning in. I definitely would like to see your setup once everything is installed
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE #yyud3efddrdxssrcddddsz
Explained simply. Nice setup!!
Thanks for checking out the video definitely appreciate it
Planning to to dual battrry this week to my 2004 suburban. Send you some pics if i could or knew how lol. Thanks for the video.
Ok cool. Send them to my IG Chevy_life85
clean install
Definitely appreciate it and thank you for checking out the video
I think it was a good job ‼️
I do a 1995 and want to add two batteries to start and two marina batteries and I took out of an old RV the cables I need and didn’t coast me nothing! It ran the battery and generator which had I not sold it I would install it on the truck for power dang it ‼️
Thanks for checking out the video. I have a 1999 Yukon that I want to do a dual battery set up as well. I’m thinking about changing the motor to a 6.0 first and then do the dual batteries then.
Man appreciate your videos, what length and gauge of wire did you use from the NVM isolator tapped into your fuse box??
I’m waiting for my 2000 Suburban to come out of the shop, so I can start! Got my 1/0 AWG wires ready for the Big upgrade (4-7)!!
Thanks for checking out the video. The gauge wire I used was 14gauge I think. As far as the length I’m not sure I just brought a spool and just ran it start and the fuse box.
I your going to run a big lithium bank/lith batt---its a good idea to run a isolator --In my case I have group 34 and a 31,with an isolator I would only have the power of the 31 BAD idea--Without I have both.LOL just dont let your batteries go dead.Its bad in alot of different ways.-----Ether way NICE install and video!!
Thanks for checking out the video. I don’t need two batteries to power the car that’s why I separated them. Heck my battery dies all the time because I rarely drive the truck or even crank it up. I need to get better with that.
Where did you get those fuse tabs to run and connect the ignition wire ? Good video btw
Thanks for checking out the video. I got them from advance auto parts
200 amp fuses and such thick wire. Are you running a system? I went 50 and 60 amp breakers with 8 gauge. Wanted the breakers to pop before frying the computer/causing a fire. New alternator, you're running aftermarket for that. Me, winter beater, just factory in mine. Though I couldn't resist and brought the 5.3 up to 360bhp with some front lockers :) Only aftermarket stuff I do is for flying RC/Drones/Camping. I'd say you've got a good install save your secondary batt ground is too long. Keep it under a foot if you can.
Anytime you upgrade your charging system it’s recommended to go with a big gauge wire. I’m running a 400amp alternator and two battery which needs the most current available to pass through. In all honesty a 8 gauge wire on a stock alternator is not sufficient enough. We all have our thoughts and inputs on aftermarket part but that where the research comes into play. Some aftermarket parts are made better then the factory parts, but it works for me and I’m seeing a difference with the upgrade.
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE -- Curious what you're running on that. I did run main 4 gauge, so I get what your saying, but after the distribution block, I went eight. I need it to start and overland in the snow. Again, 200 amp is a welder. For a moment, but enough to fry your modules.
I've run two, one farad caps and three ZX 400 audio amps off a 50 amp system. For 12 inch woofers DVC and components.
What you would need with that kind of power gives me a sinking feeling. I think you're running hydros. A tow truck I would get.
Hope I'm wrong. That said, if you are, great way to destroy your ride quality, shake your vehicle apart, and fry your electronics.
Again, hope I'm wrong, and glad to apologies if I am. But if I'm right, you just dropped a nuke on your vehicle.
I got a 2005 z71 as well
💪🏾💪🏾🔥🔥
That connector thats plugged into nothing right by your isolator... is for the stock GM dual battery isolator
Thanks for the video. To be honest I’m not sure I never looked into
2 fuses are overkill, other than that great install.
Thanks for checking out the video.
How did that xs power battery do under the hood mine swelled up during the summer had to take it out
Thanks for checking out the video. Mine has been doing good it hasn’t swelled or anything. But I haven’t been using it either. I just ran two amps to it last month
My 2013 Tahoe has the primary battery set up opposite of yours. Came with a 175A in line fuse from the Alt. Figured ill just add 1 more of the same fuse towards the iso, then add a similar 175A fuse branching off of the secondary battery. Im trying to figure out which iso i should get though.. is yours still running strong today? Does it automatically engage if your primary battery dies? Beautiful install man 👍🏻
Going to do the big 3 install before i install the dual battery set up. Any input would be helpful.
Thanks for checking out the video. So from my experience with my second battery is it does not crank the car if the main battery goes dead. It could be because of the ISO. So if you are wanting the second battery to engage if the first one dies do it without the ISO. I seen dual battery installs where they didn’t use an ISO. I just did the ISO to have a separate battery just for my system.
So when doing your big three if you already have a 175amp fuse then you can match that one if you use an ISO if you don’t use one then you won’t need another fuse. For running your wire just route them so they are out of the way and if you have a system go ahead and upgrade the alternator wire to zero gauge. I didn’t do it in my video because I haven’t installed my system but will definitely do it. Definitely appreciate you check out the video if you have any question’s definitely ask
good job..bud
Appreciate it
I have a question... why did you choose to go with 200 amp fuses. I plan to do the Big 3, install my 400 amp Mechman billet-faced altenator, and incorporate a dual battery setup. But, I have been wondering what amperage my fuses should be. I have been thinking about 300 amp or 350 amp fuses, but I'm not sure. By the way, I have a 2009 Cadillac Escalade EXT... my factory setup is identical to yours, except your 2nd battery is my main battery.
Thanks for checking out the video. I went with the 200amp fuse from just researching dual battery installs majority of my search’s came up with people using a 200amp. But also I have found that a 300 amp fuse will work as well. The fuse so match closely to the alternator size
I'm wondering the exact same thing. I want to run power to the rear of my 03 Tahoe for a winch and to expand audio amplifiers under the 2nd row seat. I'm thinking about routing the 0/1 gauge power wire along the frame and then drilling a hole and coming up through the "bed" area sheet metal up under the back driver's side plastic cover where the sub box and jack are where I will have a distribution block going to the amplifiers and continuing the run or 0/1 gauge wire out to the rear of the Tahoe gate where I can plug it into my winch with Anderson plugs, or to also have auxiliary power at the back of the rig. I understand winches need in excess of 400 amps. Do you guys have any recommendations on the type and amperage of fuse I would need and where to fuse the run of 0/1 gauge wire?
Thanks for checking out the video. So I’m not sure what size fuses you would need, but I would definitely put one close to the battery for you amp and one in the back as well. Now I did some research about the winch and people are saying it’s no need to fuse the winch. I would recommend running dual batteries one for the winch and one for the car and system
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE Alright buddy, I appreciate your reply! I really like your channel, so I had to subscribe! Man, I've been in research mode today, and I'm getting my mind blown! So I contacted Warn, SmittyBilt, and Rough Country Winches, and they're all telling me that they run 2ga wire to power their winches, in fact, Warn and Rough Country both have 24' "jumper cables" with Anderson plugs on either end to actually power their winches, and they all tell me they've never had an issue with those cables failing. I know on a 12,000 winch @ a 9500 lb. load the winch will be drawing 480 amps. So I ask the gal at Warn then how can the wires support the amperage? She then commences to tell me that they've never had their 2ga cables fail in a 24 ft. run with all of their consumer 4x4 type winches. The dude with Rough Country told me the exact same thing. The amperage chart with EWCS welding wire says their 1/0 gauge wire can support 400 Amps @ 25 ft. I guess if the folks selling the winches says the 2ga cables will work, then I guess they will work, haha! I'm running 0/1ga EWCS welding cable to the rear to power everything. I'm sure it's probably overkill, but I'd rather have it too much than too little! Man, I'm envious of your battery!! Man, those things are supposed to be awesome! Do you like yours?
I definitely appreciate you for checking out and subscribing to the channel. Im definitely that dyi channel that is looking to expand my abilities. I read as well that they only use 2ga wire which was a shocker to me. The only thing that recommended me to say put the winch on a separate battery is that I read was that the winch could drain your battery quickly. With my batteries I really haven’t got to test them yet. I’m getting everything in line for my system and wheel light install. Which will all run off of that second battery.
Nicely done bro
Appreciate it. Thanks for checking out the the video
What site did you go to get the new fuse connection? That's neat. What's the name of those fuse connection for your Isolator?
Thanks for checking out the video. If you are talking about the fuse blocks I ordered them from Amazon here’s the link www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MYGIR2C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE Thank you brother
Here’s my question can I use any battery for my audio or does it have to be a lithium or deep cycle because I have a extra battery from my 07 cord fusion it’s only a year old I plan to use that for my 2nd battery for my music and of course I have a isolator my main battery is a duralast from AutoZone it a 07 Yukon factory alternator
Thanks for checking out the video. Yes you should be able to use any battery. From what I researched lithium just have a longer life cycle
Whenever I do this do I connect my sound system power wire to the main battery or the 2 one
Thanks for checking out the video. I’m going to connect my power wire to the second battery. From the research I’ve done
What size fuse should I use I have a mechman 400 alternator does it matter??
I used a 10amp fuse. Im not sure if it’s a certain size you should use
What if I run a power wire from the second battery directly to my alternator instead of using a isolator and running a power wire from my main battery will that work
Thanks for checking out the video. I seen some videos that did not use the isolator. I will send you one once I find it. I just use the iso to keep the batteries separated
th-cam.com/video/YZu6eVrhRTc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cOFD7WSTxbgjE0im here’s one of the videos of a no iso setup
Can I just run the ignition wire to my radio instead or no?
Thanks for checking out the video. I not sure if you can it directly to the radio. From my research it say run to a 12v ignition fuse
So when the car is off the isolator disconnects the primary battery from the secondary battery so the secondary battery is not feeding nothing on the off position ?
The isolator from my understanding is to keep one battery from draining the other battery, but it will charge both batteries evenly
Do you need a fuse between the isolator and battery?
I have an 200 amp fuse on each side of the isolator. That way if any type of failure happen on any side off the isolator it will blow the fuse and cut of power so further damage won’t be done
So it’s fine to used a xs battery and original battery?
So my xs battery is just going to be used to operate all the accessories I add. So I haven’t had any issue
that is why he using a isolator when you have a 2 battery not the same
#4CCP
Where you live?. Man I need your know how..im in Raleigh nc
Thanks for checking out the video. I’m in Houston feel free to hit me on instagram if you have any questions
@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE u give me alot of ideas,,,appreciate you
*So for a Tahoe with No Sound System BUT with a Dual Battery, Which Isolator Should i go with because there is Different Amps??*
Thanks for checking out the video. To be honest I don’t know the recommended size. I just went with the higher amperage one
For the +12 fuse tap did you tap a an on while running or on while while ignition on or running?
Thanks for checking out the video. I tapped into a fuse that gets power when the ignition is on can’t remember which one but I think I say which fuse in beginning of the video.
Would a 3100 fit ?
Thanks for checking out the video. From what I see the 3100 is slightly bigger. So I’m not sure it would fit. You would probably have to test fit it and see if the hood would close properly
@Chevy Life85 thanks I seen someone put xs3100 in stock location but this would be way easier
No problem at all. I’ve seen it done in the stock location as well. I think the 3100 sits a little over 1in higher than the 3400. Which shouldn’t make that big of a difference
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE cool thanks
What's your volts on your alternator mines is stable at 14 .60 to 14.40
I’m not even sure I have hooked up the volt meter that came with it yet. Did you install you volt meter?
Na I used a mult miter to check the volts while the car was idleing
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE
I just installed a mechman alternator
It's a 320
But for some reason I really think the head unit I got is a Tesla screen radio and it's killing my system
Hai Bro
Appreciate it bro and thank for checking out the video
How long are your wires between the 2 batteries?
Thanks for checking out the video. I used between 6-7ft of ofc power wire.
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE That's all i need to wire 2 batteries on these trucks?
@@seangowan7441 so i ordered 7ft worth of ofc red 0ga for the power and 4ft of ofc ground wire. And the video breaks down how I ran it.
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE what gauge of ground wire did u go with? 0 as well?
@@jaimemorales146 yes sir 0 for the ground as well
You really didnt even show your power wire going from batter back to your amp
Thanks for checking out the video. I haven’t ran my power wire from the battery to the back. That video coming soon
@@CHEVYLYFEGARAGE ok i was confused. Thanks for getting back. I have a similar set up but my volts to my amp are dropping too low to 11 from my extra battery, so trying to figure that out.