I can't believe Mechanics don't know How to Change oil Correctly!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2024
- Absolute Proof DIYERS & Mechanics do not change oil properly. This can be verified with the owners manual. My findings are common sense but this seems to be lacking. Also many different videos on The best engine oil Mobil1 extended performance 5w30, Amsoil signature series, Liqui moly top tec oil, valvoline advanced full synthetic are just a few of the oils like supertech oil, castrol extended performance, royal purple HPS Motor oil and many others test then review oil thoroughly.
#mechanic #oilchange - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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This guy is your at home mechanic who knows it all from his at home experience lol
I’m so glad after 43 years on this earth I finally found the only guy on earth that knows how to change oil correctly! What would I’ve done without TH-cam?
Probably actually changed your oil correctly.
This guy isn’t quite the expert he thinks he is.
@@MrJeffcoley1 Why do you say that?
@@inspectorjavert5563 he's a variety/ infotainment channel. He means well but apes many other TH-camrs.
Making a generalization about all mechanics isn’t very accurate. I was a ASE certified master tech for 37 years and did all my work with care and precision. I always drained the oil and removed oil filter first, then checked fluids, tire pressure, etc before installing the drain plug. If the oil filter orientation allowed it, I pre-filled the filter to minimize the time with low oil pressure on startup after completion of the oil change.
And change it with oil temp. warm ,not hot. His looked cold.
I’m sure Gary you have seen many mechanics do exactly what Nate is talking about. Good to hear you did it right.
Do you prime the oil pump on the first start after oil change?
@@saulespino2510 🤣
A great deal of mechanics are under pressure from the company or boss so I know its hard and I try to keep that in mind. All the care you take is definitely appreciated.
This guy knows just enough about being a mechanic to be dangerous. Literally and with his comments
Yes overall good message. At times while watching the video and listening to what was being stated at the time I nearly began to wonder if this was a parody/satire. For example, lol using the mallet to tap the ratchet. And then while trying to drain the oil, plug screws out, then in, then in again, then out, then in, then repeat for way too long. I thought maybe he was showing us WHAT a bad mechanic is like!?
@@rimfire2642 The proper way to change the oil on any engine is when the engine is at operating temperature so that any contaminates in the engine will be suspended in the oil rather than sitting at the bottom of the oil pan so 8t all comes out which means the drain plug will be hot. He didn't have to use a mallet on the ratchet because he had enough leverage with the 1/2" drive ratchet, but he chose to which is common practice. It did look as if he wasn't sure which way to turn the drain bolt to remove it could be because he's laying on the ground which can confuse some people. He didn't mention that the new oil filter should be filled with clean oil prior to installing it, but it did look like it had oil on it, but it looked like dirty oil.
@@cliffords.8341 I really have no idea why you're telling me any of this.
@@rimfire2642 I guess you're not much for chatting back and forth. Have a good night.
@@cliffords.8341 " I guess you're not much for chatting back and forth" I can't possibly see in any world where you see can't see yourself in this statement. IE, you're projecting and completely unaware of your own self; hypocritic.
Forest Gump automotive instruction tutorial!🤣
VEE HICKLE
Also many mechanics makes mistake on where they put jacks and jack stands ...
Just what i was thinking.
Mechanics roll in the dirt with Chinese jack stands and pretend floor jacks.All technicians and diagnosticians use diagnostic databases designed for a true professional who uses proper lifting equipment that allow a proper inspection.I do understand that your degree in automotive technologies allow you condemn,honest qualified technicians…
Absolutely that is true and hopefully I will have a place soon so that I can use a lift. I always place the jack and jack stands in the area referred by the manufacturer. There is little dirt and actually concrete under a few inches of dirt because of constant flooding. But I use 2 and leave the jack in place.
@@craigbetz5378 I condemn nobody and mechanics often can't take time because of the company or a boss. So I work in the dirt ? Thats bad? I never said at the moment the car was getting a complete inspection. Tell me how easy you think it is to work in the dirt. If it's made in China its bad? Almost everything is made there. Many Toyotas or parts from all vehicles and most tools. But yes its super easy working on a car with a lift. I just have to buy the land and everything. Anyone can get a lift. I don't want to rent if I don't have to. I have many diagnostic tools, The best brands on the market. Yes I have some old tools that are solid steel, I don't worry about name brand with everything. I hope you have a great day.
@@lesrogers7310 yes thats why I follow manufacturer's instructions.
No,the engine isn't getting up to full temperature. That's why the white "moisture " on the cap.
EXACTLY, thank you, you're the only one that got that.
I hate it when mechanics don’t use the proper jacking points on my car. 00:29👈
Fr
that is a proper jack point
Some of us feel if you want it done right you've got to do it yourself.
I have changed my oil myself since 1966 and have had 30+ cars 😀🤣
@@johnniehall3692 What brand of oil do you use?
I totally agree.
@@johnniehall3692 Do you just trade them or do you own many cars?
@@saulespino2510 5w /30w Kendall Full Synthetic on my 2002 S10..2011HHR..& 2000 E350 ECONO VAN
Most definitely NOT where those jack stands or floor Jack are supposed to go. The only thing that should fo there is the OEM supplied jack. You can see the bent metal from using regular jacks and jack stands.
Guys talking out his ass 🤣
Absolute proof someone doesn't know where to place his trolly jack or position his axle stands correctly 🤔
My kid worked at an old change center. After hearing his stories, I always change my own oil now.
Don't insert drain plug in pan until you've changed the oil filter. For some reason there's oil released when you remove the filter. It also allows that little bit of used oil time to drain out.
I have to move my drain pan when I unscrew the filter, so I have to close that up first. Since I don't exceed 4k miles per oil change I don't worry about that little bit staying in the engine.
Love how you jack the side away from the drain plug. How mush oil did you leave in the pan? Use a rubber mallet to remove the drain plug? Please remove this far fetching video.
Couldn't agree more!!
Thats not true and I have shown in previous videos. Yes rubber mallet if the plug is to tight and you don't have anything else to use. Please don't use a breaker bar. You seem mad because you realized that you did something mentioned in the video.
@@RS-xj6tz its not true, but yes a mallet if its to tight.
@J Dub Why are you so mad, man?
Any dirt falling in the engine has to go through the filter before it gets to the crank. The filter removed everything down to roughly 10 microns.
No no, the motor is totally destroyed because of that dirt particle. I heard it in the video.
@@markallen4364 lol OK. Sure. My daughter thinks she's a doctor for the same reason.
@@markallen4364 😂😂😂
Garages using only their bulk oil is a very common practice. My used cars needed 0W 20, but 10W 30 and even 10W 40 were used when their previous owners went for oil changes. This is a major reason why I do my own oil changes - I guarantee:
- only the correct top quality synthetic oil is used in my vehicles.
- everything is done correctly e.g., old oil is given lots of time to drain away.
That was condensation build up on the oil cap , very common here in Ohio no matter how often you change your oil . I clean mine off several times a year .
Im not far from that area and I appreciate you taking time to share.
I live in Wisconsin and changed oil for a living, condensation build up like this in the motor is very common. Especially in the winter time. Short trip driving also causes condensation build up, mainly because the motor doesn't have time to properly warm up.
Thanks for all the info. I've been changing my own oil for ovet 40 years. Finding a good shop is hit or miss, but from what Ive seen and heard over the years the quick lube places are a disaster.
They overfill which is bad and they overtighten drain plug
Thank you for the kindness and you are correct its hard to find a good place to go.
Oil in pan goes straight to oil pump then oil filter then to moving parts🚗💥💨
@@jasonmckeaigg9143 Correct, therefore the first part of the engine that gets damage due to dirt or other foreign objects in the oil is the oil pump. Along with keeping an eye on all the gauges, you have to keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge incase the pressure ever drops below what it should be. If it does then that's an indication there's a possible issue with the oil pump or o-rings that are not sealing properly.
Did you lube the filer oh ring? Missed that part. Where was the filling part? How not to drip ? spill ? and proper direction of pouring with a one quart container ( 1 liter) with no funnel.
Here's a useless tid bit of info, some oil filters come prelubed. Kawasaki is one. Looks like a petroleum jelly. Anyone else find that?
Right on bro, garages don't always do a great job. If a jobs worth doing!!..best to do it yourself and do it right. If you got the time and know how!!..Then you know to truth.
family member went to a quick lube place. when they replaced the oil filter, the oil filter seal was not removed, so they doubled up on the seals. there was a massive oil leak. very lucky the engine did not blow or get bad damage from oil loss.
I mean you go to a quick live service where they have kids doing 30 oil changes a day if you don’t want improper service don’t expect it to be under 10 mins unless your cars brand new
don't know who is doing this oil change but i wouldn't let the change oil in my lawn mower. i know that this is made to show mistakes but damnitman....all of them! LOL
Only time I experienced synthetic oil causing damage is using it in a old engine that had paraffin based oil used in it. The new oil breaks up the paraffin and plugs oil passages causing engine failure.
Said by the professional laying under a car on jackstands in the MUD .....really .....
I know he didn't just talk about cross contamination from dirt and debris with shop rags then clean off oil from the pan and drain plug with a "contaminated" shop rag, introducing all of that dirt from the pan and ground from which he picks it up from. excellent thanks for showing us the correct way to "contaminate" our oil 👍
Why are you so mad, man?
@@inspectorjavert5563 I wouldn't say mad, just annoyed that he was complaining about all of debris that could be transferred into the oil from using a dirty greasy rag then laying said rag on the ground then cleaning the drain plug and oil drain plug hole.
@@prestonikard9221 Lmao yeah you're right. Even if a couple of sand particles managed to slip past the oil filter somehow and made their way to the crankcase, it would likely just disintegrate.
Changes oil in the mud and talks about grit on a rag at a professional shop 🤣
Exactly!! This guy….
Don't be mad that you got educated from this video.
I didn't understand, is he showing what you are NOT supposed to do?
That was not blow by that was condensation
More than likely caused by short trips never letting the heat to burn off the moisture.
I use a suction device specifically made to remove old oil when I change my auto/truck oil. It doesn't get all the oil out of some cars but with my vehicles, when I put the suction tube down my oil dipstick tube, I end up getting almost all of the old oil out. Make sure the car is warmed up so the oil will flow nicely. Makes oil changes almost very quick and simple. Of course, I change the oil filter with every such change (more handy when your vehicle has a top mounted oil filter).
Dude get a clue and find a job. You for sure aren't a good you tuber. You looked so professional laying in the mud trying to remove the drain plug.
Mark with a scratch on filter before filter change. If they dump and refill the old filter volume may show up as a bit too much on the dipstick. The scratch will tattle. 80.00 is a lot to pay.
there's absolutely no reason to do a 5 min oil change. Doing my own oil changes since 1982
I see that build up on oil caps of cars that don't reach operating temperatures. At the shop I retired from we have so many different engine oils and coolents. It has become insane. 🤪
If people and i mean even older folks really took just a little bit of time to understand extactly how easy it all is to do...they would do it themselves...
Cleaning a coffeemaker or refridgerator is more difficult than car basics like oil change...bulb...fluids etc...
Check out the 4x4 tank in the back of the garage. Settled additives? That old 10w30 barrel back there for years? Maybe it is settled out too. I found an old jug of oil and saw scale and flexs of additive. I looked in jug to see a layer of it in the bottom. Hmmm!???!
NATE, what is your thought in mixing some Havoline synthetic API SN+ with some of the same but API SP. I have to get rid of old stock but one oil change to the next will be halfway between
As long as they both are recommended by your vehicle manufacturer than you can mix them.
API SP is backwards compatible, So if your car manufacturer calls for the API SN+ then API SP would mix fine.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO You are backwards on THAT. Its just the opposite. If the manufacturer calls for SN+ then you must use that. Anything SN and anything before the letter N are lesser oils.
It isn't a myth that older engines may seep synthetic oil. Cork gaskets, as many older cars use, are too porous for that oil. I experienced this myself, with a 97 Mercury. The timing covers and pans use cork gaskets, as does the front intake gasket which is where mine seeped.
Idk man I've done full synthetic changes on cars from 70s-90s and never had a problem
@@clays.9662 excellent for you! I haven't been as lucky. I've seen the results of studies and basically, the molecules in synthetic are smaller than those in organic and as a result, it can seep through the more porous cork. Cheers!
If your car has a problem with leaking prior to using synthetic oil it will leak more with synthetic if your car does not have any oil leaks and you use a good quality synthetic high mileage oil or a good synthetic blend high mileage oil Valvoline Max life the leak will stop
@@kevinpunk9362 that's all I've ever used in it since I bought the car in 2005. My comment is based on science as well as experience. It has no basis in myths.
I've tried Full Syn,in 5 cars with in 2 years I found oil leaks all were new . Car 6 used full syn from new never leaked it was a diesel.after going back to reg oil they stopped.Then I went with 50 /50 ,no leaks .
So that's were Im at .
I am a mechanic. When I bought I my new 19 yaris, I got the three oil changes. About the first thing I did with the car was put it up on my lift, take off all the plastic panels and body plugs and load everything up with fluid film. While I was down there, I took the time to write "Don't F*** this up :)" on the service flap, with a paint pen before anyone else touched it.
I bought a good used 2012 silverado in 2016 and did the same with the fluid film. In this area it's one of the very few with only a little surface rust. Especially around the rear wheels. Have been going over it again little by little this year. Very good stuff. Now if GM could just keep the paint from flaking off.
that's a good way to get spit in your engine, son.
3 months 3,000 miles on regular oil 5 months 5,000 miles on synthetic if you have higher milage check your oil level in between changes and don't over torque the drain plug.
My car was making some sounds during hill climb ups, i thought that it might be the timing chain. I noticed that my mechanic is not using the oil filter i was providing. Yesterday I changed the oil with a premium one. i noticed the sound is gone, this means along with the oil filter my mechanic was using cheap oil it wasn't the timing chain, it was engine knocking due to cheap oil.
I agree with most of the comments
On here. LET'S look the big picture
Here...its about SALES & PROFITS..ANYMORE...nobody takes the time to train there people right anymore...I think the automotive repair is awesome...everybody wants It right now..don't worry about we'll fix it later attitude has to change.
I agree with ASE gentlemen take the time to do it right...and don't let anybody else tell you any different.from a oil change to replacing...the windshield..thank you INDY...
The advice in this video is half baked but mostly correct. However I can guarantee you can look long and hard but you will never find motor oil like they sold in the 1920’s for sale in any store, at any price.
how much oil did you leave in the pan with your car jacked up from the side like that??????????????????
Anyone can say they are a mechanic but they not
A day or two before the oil change, add 2 ounces of sea foam. Change oil after at least a 30 mile drive. Remove the filler cap, and clean it with carb cleaner. Cover the fill hole with a clean paper towel. Leave the drain plug out until the oil filter is removed. Drain the oil out of the filter, then put the old filter back on. When the oil from the drain plug is single drops, replace the drain plug. Pour in 1/2 the quantity of new oil, replace the filler cap, and start the still warm engine. Let it idle for at least five minutes, then repeat the draining procedure. Install a fresh new filter. Add new oil to full level. Clean and replace filler cap. You have now fully changed the oil. 335,000 miles vw 1.9tdi.
That's a terrible procedure, lol. I doubt there is any manufacturer or oil company that recommends that. How about just change the oil and filter.
You're trying to do an engine flush, which may be a good idea if someone didn't change their black, fuel-diluted oil for 10k+ miles, but never start the motor with only 1/2 oil in it.
What kind of oil would you recommend for a 1975 Buick?
Run the highest zinc you can. I assume you prob got flat tappet lifters on the old girl so a cj/ck4 diesel oil may be in your best interest for the price. Something like rotella t6 5w40 should work great, t5/t4 would also work in their 10w30 variants. Valvoline vr1 may also be a good choice. All these so long as you don't have cats, which i don't assume you would, the high zinc content will definitely improve your engines life.
Not ALL mechanics do those things. When I change my oil I remove the drain plug and return the vehicle to level while it drains. While it is draining I check tire pressure, inspect the rims, tires treads and sidewalls then move to the engine compartment to belts, hoses, and air filter replacing the air filter as needed. Then I check and top off other fluids. Since my vehicles use cartridge oil filters that are changed from on top I change the oil filter. I then again raise the vehicle to gain access underneath and reinstall the oil drain plug after replacing the crush washer. I have been using synthetic oil for years change the oil and filter at 5000 miles. If it's necessary to have someone else do an oil change I insist on inspecting the oil bottles that the viscosity is correct and the bottles factory seals are intact. I have never had any mechanics say no, only once had an oil shop salesman object claiming safety issues.
Castrol edge extended performance vs mobil 1 extended performance in wich batter for car long life engine and performance ???
It lasts the longest when you change it. Often.
the best way is change it yourselves
Just like any other profession there are good mechanics and bad. My recommendation to my family and friends is if you find a good one and you are happy make sure you and your friends take your business to him so that he is in business for a long time.
I do NOT recommend the quick lube places for obvious reasons. I have ssen folks with stripped or loose drain plugs, loose oil filter etc.
These oil synthetics better but it's going to be changed face really and sooner you know they tell you oh so then it goes longer yeah but when you go too long with synthetic it builds up like crazy varnishes
I felt like he was talking to a school room of KINDERGARTENS.
Hey! I need that socket oil wrench!!!
I change my oil every 5000km but a little trick I learned from a old mechanic is to add some fresh oil to the engine when the oil is almost finished draining. I'm always amazed to see the amount of dirty oil washed out from the oil pan.
Yes I do this too. Just 1/2 qt or so
The company I worked for in the early 90s switch to Mobil 1 in our trucks, our oil usage doubled for the first year we had to get away from that it ran through our trucks like s*** through the goose. And yes they were high mileage trucks.
Was it the amount or the cost?
This guy made a big point about the rag being used,,, but then just wiped the dirty pan not caring about keeping the plug hole clean?! Carefully wipe around the hole, turning the paper enough that it's always clean, wiping along, then away!
Most oil change outfits will let you bring your own products. However, there's NO break in price. If you use these guys here's what to expect; the drain plug may be crossthreaded, the drain plug and oil filter over torqued or under torqued and they don't check if the old filter seal stuck to the engine,and they will not replace the crush washer on the plug. By definition a crush washer is one and done. And if they say any fluid needs to be topped up, most only charge and not fill.
Thanks moral is, stay away.
thanks
Did you use a new drain bolt gasket? That's another mistake that people make...always use a new one. Cheap insurance.
Absolutely thanks
You did not use a torque wrench to tighten oil drain plug. Many shops have the oil change done by the newbie
Ugh I wouldn’t worry about using a torque wrench on a drain plug
If no torque wrench, make it tight, but not too tight.
You do not use a torque wrench on a drain plug. You have to remember that drain panel is plastic. You Crack that it's over. You tight it with a socket but not to tight.
How many litres in 3 quarts
Nice
Reportedly not all new car dealers including Honda and Toyota don't use Honda or Toyota OEM motor oil when you drop it off for service. They use the cheapest bulk oil they can find. The also give the oil change job to the least inexperienced guy in the shop who may or may not know or use the factory directions for drawing all the oil and for replacing the oil filter cartridge. They also measure the oil level via the dip stick with the oil is cold leaving you a little short the full amount. The only good way to change the oil is at independent garage where you can see them installing the oil filter that you bought from the new car dealers parts department (same for OEM coolant and transmission fluid) and see them adding each quart of the correct weight premium motor oil that you bought at Walmart or Costco and handed to them. Sad comment for sure but that's the way things are. Note: Two days later measure the oil level when the car has cooled down for 30-minutes and see what the oil level is.
That was very informative and correct. As a mechanic for 48 years I agree. Most people don't even know how to properly check oil. When I fill the oil I alway let the car down on level ground. My company changed oil every 6 months instead of three. Their parking lot was sand dirt, they drove in city traffic and bumpy roads. Instead of 12K miles should be 4- 5K. And grease every 3-4K
Oooooook...lol
I really don't trust anyone to change my oil anymore. Too many professionals have messed things up
Thanks god bless
As a mechanic, this was absolutely painful to watch.
Like you the only guy knows how to change oil
Your purpose is to have more customers. By judging all mechanics (based on the title)
I just change my oil when it starts turning black, regardless of time or distance driven.
Please do not incurage a person to use a car jack or jack stands in the mud...... Safety is always first.... All rel Mechanics know this.
Real Mechanics
Alright guys. I am very aware that car lifts use these areas that this guy uses BUT! I do not ever use this area because when I support a vehicle I use full reinforced locations. Most people don't realize how little metal there is in those areas. In a unibody frame the actual strong Frame doesn't go all the way back. To properly support your car look for the real framework and support there. I like to use the crossmember, or where the control arms attach to. These are the strongest support points. But then again, it's just my opinion.
If you're not changing it at 5,000 miles you're looking for trouble.
You should have torqued oil plug with a toque wrench not a 1/2 drive ratchet.
Not really. You don't really need to torque your oil plug. Just don't tight it to tight. You have to remember your oil pan is plastic. You don't want that to Crack. One time I torque my oil plug. They told me 15 foot pound which is not that much pressure. The next time I went to change my plug I couldn't remove it. It was to tight. I hade to use a breaker bar to loosen it. This is the reason the man in the video did not torque is oil plug.
That’s why he has to smack it out with a mallet while laying on a dirt surface which is supporting his Chinese floor jack which is not placed properly on a lift point of the vehicle, hoping like hell that nothing fails so his jack stand doesn’t crush the pinch weld just prior to sinking into the dirt, tipping sideways and crushing him. At least he can report condensation on the oil cap caused by oil not reaching operating temp due to short trips as blow by…..I could go on but I’m done.
Did your tech school instructor tell you this? Or did you read it in a book?
I like how this guy acts like he goes in and out of shops all the time perusing the area where they do the oil changes checking to see if they're using a dirty rag.
Jiffy lube blew my head too the sky no cap
The most important thing is to jack up the vehicle on opposite side of drain hole so you can get more of the oil out
Thank you! I was about to say that a few messages ago but got distracted. Good on you
@@paulfenter9543 honestly it's one of those common sense things oh right most Americans don't have any 😂😂
@Jason Puddy just heat it up and let it half way cool off the warmer oil is the easier it comes out and yeah burning your hand is way too much fun
It depends on the engine where the older engine had a couple thousand’s more for the thicker oil and for the older engine that was design with cork gaskets. It’s not that newer engine is that much better but with rubber gaskets it doesn’t leak oil in the valve covers and oil pan as synthetic oil is more penitratably into sealing surface that oil leaks occur. And it is simple just use. Clean rag and you won’t get the mythical sand in your engine
Ramps from Wal-Mart makes it so much easier
Agree, especially on low cars.
@@kinglangren I was thinking while watching, "Go get you a ramp man".
Come on, jacking it up in the mud on a Chinese jack is much more exciting. You have to make sure you do it really fast before the jack starts sinking.
Simple, just put your hand in your pocket and put all the change into the valve cover cap. Oil changed.
How much oil did you leave in you pan cocked to one side??
Not to mention you don't want to drain the oil pump just to get that extra used oil out!
it too dirty in the place, anyway friend thanks for sharing, good video and idea, ^^
Do your own oil changes. If you don’t know how to. Have someone who does know show you. That way you know what filter and oil you are using because you bought it. And it’s the cheapest option. Only takes about 20-30 minutes depending on if you need to Jack the vehicle up. I have a truck and I can crawl under it without a jacking it up.
I think it's the transmission that needs a couple minutes of running when first starting your engine... More so than the engine itself.
Don't judge a person unless you have walked in their shoes.
As a mechanic I totally agree with what you said and you are right but unfortunately when you working for a big chain you don't really have saying in what happening. I see it every day when I checking cars that that will be for sale and half of the stuff that I advised is being refused as it would bring the cost too high so they gambling with it or using one oil for any engine because its come in the barrel that is cheaper than can.... but on the other hand if there is anything that I'm not comfortable with I simply refuse the job and believe me its happening more often then you think.... its also hard as you can't effort to loose your job and that kind of forcing your hand but then again you are the person responsible for the vehicle as you touched it last and if anything happens it will not be the company that will be held responsible but you....
😂😂😂VEE HICKLE 😂😂😂
HAHAHAHAHAAHAHA That is the funniest comment in the entire comments section.
I recently got a oil change.. after tht all of a sudden he has to change a crankshaft smh over a small oil change
Mercedes recommends suction withdraw of oil and others mfgs. 10k is guaranteed way to age engine to death. The experience I have with diesel systems really backs up this guy.
Good intentions alone is not enough!!!
There is a strange 'sweet spot' on the learning curve where ignorance and arrogance come together. Think of what you did for a living, and look back ten years later, and you realize your confidence grew much more quickly than your wisdom. There's another skill level far above, a level that amateurs who change their oil in the mud have no hope to achieve. So, for all those armchair experts, show a little humility. Wisdom comes much later.
Why didn’t you film the oil that you use?
I doubt it being a half quart left in the pan possibly a cup at most more like a quarter the moisture build up could be from a few things like water content in the gas a bad pcv low quality oil too many variables there to make it just about mechanics and or lube techs
It's more likely because for every gallon of gasoline you burn you get a gallon of H20 as a bi product. This means that engines get water from blowby into the crankcase. If you do a lot of short trips you will get condensate buildup. Valve covers tend to be the last things that develop a high enough temperature to atomize it into steam. At the same time it lends itself to be a cooler place for the other steam to condense onto. It really says nothing about the health of your engine other than possibly needing a thermostat if the engine is running cold.
Not sure who you are or what experience you have as a mechanic but I was a mechanic for over 20 years and refuse to take criticism from a guy that changes his oil in the driveway.
And jacking up the vehicle you're one foot behind the Jack point and you can actually see your pinch seam arking not only this you very clearly do not know what you're talking about or have never worked in the trade by putting jack stands on dirt makes this very clear and only this you say not all mechanics are this way but then you go ahead and accuse them right in your next sentence I own a diesel repair shop and you are the reason all mechanics have a bad name you Don't know Jack squat
Absolutely I agree with you. He thinks he knows it all
I tell my customers to use the best oil and filter they can oil is to cheap to skip out on new motor and labor will cost around $700 to $1300. It's the same as coke vs Sam's choice ...
Did anyone else notice the sump plug was not screwed in?
I did see last time I got my oil changed they used fram oil to change my oil but aye it's cost effective for them u just pay so u don't have to do it but iam changing my own oil next time