This is the most satisfying video I’ve watched in a long time. When I see the paint start leveling out after your brush strokes it’s like sitting in a hot tub.
Lou's videos are the most informative on the net. The way he goes about explaining what and why leaves nothing to the imagination. He lays out a step by step blueprint as to how and why he is doing whatever it is he's doing. I think he was made to do these types of videos. His great wealth of knowledge and experience along with his gift for teaching make these vids a must for anyone looking to build these types of boats.
Great video Lou. Another tip I learned from painting lots of airplanes is when you pour the paint out of the gallon can, don’t pour from the side where the instructions are. That way you don’t cover up the instructions on thinning and application.
That little trick of patting your brush on the side of the paint container is a trick that was showed to me years ago and leaves the perfect amount of paint on the brush in my opinion.
I came across this site I am hooked on it watching and listening to a man that builds boats the old fashioned way and a man of his skill level that loves what he is doing to him it not only a job but a hobby he tells and explains everything he does he teaches peoples
Thank you for another highly addictive and informative video, this time a series! I now have 2 wood boats, both very substantial vessels in their own right. You are teaching woodworking. While I'm good at framing and building house projects, I saw my need to expand my skills when it came to boats. You answered that need in ways you may never know. I will try to express to you just how important your videos and teaching are to me. One boat is a 1958 Curtis, 28' cabin cruiser. Philipine mahogany plywood construction. We won't see that wood again. It needs updating of electrical, instruments and finishes. That I can handle. I've already taken a deadly 120v, no breaker shore power system and installed a breaker panel, galvanic isolator, battery charger and inverter. 12v has been sorted out with a breaker panel, propulsion functions separated from house functions and plenty of safety items installed. Your videos are giving me the knowledge to make this a gorgeous boat. The second boat is rather amazing. Built in 1929 at Lake Union Drydock, the Mary Ellen Davis at 50' was the largest and last of the Lake Union Dreamboats. She was commissioned by Fredrick Davis, the senior accountant at Weyerhaeser lumber as a wedding present to his new wife, Mary Ellen Weyerhaeser. She needs extensive frame replacement and a complete replanking below the waterline. (Aren't showers without a sump drain fun in a wood boat?) Until I started watching your videos, I was at the mercy of local shipwrights. Now I have a clear direction as well as the ability to put her back to her original splendor. Sweeter still, with all the bluetooth tech, I can throw out the radar and the old depth sounder and have all that in color on a laptop. The pilothouse will look like 1929 again. Thank you so much. I'm learning with every minute I spend with you in the shop.
Sooooo much fun! I know it is old news by now but I can't wait to see you launch the boat and start rowing away. No matter how old one gets, the capacity to enjoy remains intact. That's a good thing, isn't it? All best.... :-)
Love it. Thnx as always, Lou. I was watching this video from afar as it was playing on my tv and it really helped me see how small the dory actually is. Really looking great and can’t wait to see you take it to the water. Love the socks too.
Hello Lou. An old time furniture finisher gave me a tip that may be helpful. He kept a small spray gun filled with thinner handy. He would apply a coat of (in this case) varnish, then he would mist the thinner on the top, then tip the varnish. Kept it from flashing and running, and saved him a lot of labor in the long run. I agree, with any coating, less is more. It's better to put on multiple thin coats, than one thick coat. Thanks for the video. Jon
Really enjoyed your boat builds and coming to end of this one now and sharing some excitement about your next project... fingers crossed for a yacht of some description!
Great work I might have just sanded and varnished the whole boat but white makes it look so nice and clean, highlighting the beautiful planking and the shape of the hull. Thank's Lou for all the effort you put into your channel, so entertaining and informative.
Thanks for the tips! We are about to use TotalBilge to paint the entire interior of the head on our boat. Most tutorials were for bilge application, and I was worried about getting it on too thick or or losing the wet edge. I think we will probably use your approach with the thinner so it doesn't go on too thick.
If you want to know how I know you’re making this fun and interesting it’s because this clip seem to only last about five minutes but it was really almost 22. very entertaining! didn’t get bored. I’ve watched some Clips from others on you tube that I got bored to death I want to switch off after about a minute and a half. great job! keep it up! You really make it interesting and you are giving some really good information.
Try pouring thinner, reducer or any quart or gallon rectangular can holding it sideways. I learned this tip from a friends Dad who owned a auto body shop. I always pour tipping the can on it's side. And never spill a drop! I hope this makes sense. I really enjoyed this series and always learn so much. Thanks Lou!
Hey Lou I’ve been following your channel since you started on the sport dory. Then I watched your work skiff build(my favorite). I appreciate how patient you are and your willingness to be open to new ideas. I’m going to build a wood boat someday because of your videos! I can’t wait for that adventure in learning. Have you thought about doing a video visiting Leo on his Tally Ho build? I’d love to see that!! Thanks for what you do!
Louis really enjoying your videos mate, great to pick up tricks from other tradesmen and see how they tackle different problems. Being a painter for over 40 years I would of sprayed it but seems how that may not of been an option for you may I suggest a couple of things to make life easier for you next time. Next best option would be to use a roller to spread the paint out before tipping it... much like glossing a door. Now if you only have a brush I would use a crosshatch technique, by that I mean you spread out the paint lets say on a two to three foot section as you would normally but then go back over it at a 45" from top to bottom, left to right with the first stroke the next go for top to bottom but this time from right to left at a 45"... a bit like a tennis player, backhand, forehand, backhand, forehand as you work your way down that plank. What you're trying to achieve is spreading out the paint as thin as can before tipping it off. Finally always tip it off back into the paint you've just layed down, I also would use a bigger brush 75mm or 100mm, 3 or 4 inch just to help with applying the paint. One final tip would be to spray same water around to keep the airborne particles down, I know it would be near impossible in a woodworking shop unless you made a clean room up out of plastic sheets but you should paint in a dust free environment. Anyway hope that helps and even though I'm new to your channel I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy watching you at work. ps. Also a thank you to your mate behind the camera for the nice clear shots.
Your approach is humble and I like that about you. At your experience and skill level, which I would consider Old School Master, you still defer to research. Your study of TH-cam videos to sharpen your skills and pick up pointers is proof that you still consider yourself on a voyage to perfection.
"I'm not a professional painter....." Funny. I know what you're saying, you are a shipwright! Your work is excellent, nice explanation of the different tricks for painting with one part polyurethane on lapstrake. We like using it because it is easy to use, economical and it wears well. Mighty Mini rollers from Jamestown Distributors work great for those who decide to roll and tip, when we use those we brush the lapstrake lip first, then roll, the tip. She's looking awesome!
Never used poly paint. No one I know has used it. Look it up on youtube - nothing very good. While being very honest about his experience with the product, Louis has modestly/inadvertently produced the best tutorial on the web!
There's a book or two by authors that are considered authoritative on finish work... but those titles are a couple decades old by now. And most of the rest of YT is a bunch of rank amateurs vlogging their attempt to figure it out (whatever type of work in question) for the very first time themselves, just by trial-and-error. Often with results of dubious instructional value. Only a very few of the truly knowledgeable old-style "Pros" have gotten into the TH-cam game yet, on old skills like these. The game is changing, on how to learn this stuff. Not everybody is keeping up. Not enough opportunities left for young folks to pick it up the old way, by working with an old-timer in person. (Leaving aside the option of paying through the teeth for some overly precious formalized niche "trade school" scenario, to learn an almost-extinct "Trade" that'll never earn back the investment.) Hopefully with a few guys like Lou here, and Leo (of Tally Ho project notoriety)... Some of what were once-upon-a-time considered somewhat common "boatyard skills", will be preserved for the younger generation, before the last remaining scraps of working waterfront get turned into condos.
Boatworks has some excellent info on spraying the Awlgrip products. I just finished my first project with it and his tips really helped me. Repainted my carbon fiber spar and boom on my sailboat. I set up a spray system. Basically I followed the instructions with little trouble. You can test paint on a piece of glass or plastic to test for the correct amount of reducer and cover. I used a scrap mirror from an old closet door that I was scraping.
i've used this poly paint on a plywood/epoxy skiff. rolls and tips nicely, looks good, cheap. held up this summer to a lot of hard knocks and beach landings.
I’d like to build a boat with my kids (6 and 8). For your next project can I suggest something pretty easy and kid friendly like a little day sailer or small runabout? Otherwise I’d love to see a bigger boat like a Downeaster! Love your stuff Lou! I always learn something!
Nice result. I saw a few spots along the garboard/bottom chine that could have used a bit more fairing, but other than that it looks good. Roll and tip works very well if you have smooth hull (carvel), but brush painting is best for lapstrake as you said. I prefer to paint on cool days, but you don't always have that option. I painted my starboard side this year on a 45-50 degree day and it came out great. The port side was done on a 60-65 degree day and didn't come out nearly as nice with quite a few spots where I could see brush strokes from tipping after it dried despite thinning as I painted.
Hi Louis - a quick tip for you - hold the reducer can sideways ie widest part up/down, rather than pouring with the spout at the bottom - you have more control and less 'glugging'. Can't wait to see the boat in the water and the look of pleasure on your face. John B
I’ve found best way is to hold it vertically with the spout on the high side. On a new, full can, it helps to tilt it just slightly away from vertical when you start.
🎉I Love Your Videos🎁!!! Very Informative Everytime👍🏻👍🏻 Keep Up The Good Work🏆 Thanks🥇 Much Respect💎 From TUB From Bermuda Island 🇧🇲🗺🌏February 17th 2022📆
Lou by the time you get finished you are going to need to get some white gloves so you can touch the boat to put it in the water. BEAUTIFUL job. You going to try it out before you make the oars?
Louis, watching you build boats is really therapeutic and a great antidote to all the political BS we get thrown at us. BTW in my experience also it's usual to have to keep thinning as you work down the pot.
I'm no painter by a long shot, but when you tip the paint, try to do it the other way. Start at the finish and draw back, lifting and moving at the same time when you reach the end of the stroke. That way you don't get the "stamps" from the brush in the paint you are trying to tip. Kinda like when you are hand planing a long plank moving backward.
Lou - after adding the thinner to the paint pot, it would have been great to dunk the stick again to show the change in viscosity as the thinner paint drained off the stick. This would show us what to aim for before painting.
If you plan moving forward with painting stuff in the future, a good and simple paint can shaking mechanism is to take an orbital sander, and place the cup (without any sanding pad) one the top of the can (having a smaller pad helps because it fits a wider range of cans) and then turning the whole thing upside down. Turning it on for of 2 3 minutes, usually does the trick. I actually dedicated one of my sanders to it after the handle broke, and another trick is adding one or two stir sticks inside as it forms a breaker barrier for the moving paint.
I'm wondering how this paint would work in a spray gun since they do have a reducer for it? I spray just about everything I make. Love your videos, you are a true master!
Nice tip Brush in paint then tap both sides, my father was a master decorator one of the first tips he gave me as a boy. Keep the pain on the brush :-). I can see you don't have paint all up the handle which is a good sign of control.
Just a little tip; I always pour the paint out on the front, label side of the can so that any instructions are not covered up by the paint that inevitably spills onto the side of the can. Then always have a wet rag (water or thinner) to wipe this up immediately to keep the can clean.
I am looking at using a polyurethane to repaint my freighter canoe. I see you're not wearing a respirator while brushing. I will paint the inside and outside of the freighter. Is it necessary to wear a respirator? I'll be painting outside. Thanks love the channel.
Just found your channel, very nice videos. The question I have is do you have to protect the bottom of the skeg from abrasion? will the paint just scrape off?
if you would have had the ability to spray paint this job it would have come out extremely smooth and quick. however for having done it with a brush you did a very nice job. I only say this as someone who has been painting professionally for better than 35 years. you did well for only using a brush and there have been times when that was all i had to work with. attention to detail matters.
i have a question , if boat is going to be in the water more than 72 hours well the paint hold up ? on the directions it said 72 hours, i want to uses this paint on the bottom of my boat she is made of fiberglass and she stays on a trailer when not being used my trailer has soft plastic slides no carpet and i well uses the epoxy barrier primer 2 coats and sand good before applying. And i hope it looks half as good as yours.
Ha ha ha ha ha This guy is a hot shit. Love his videos. I am a retired lobsterman of 45 years and have painted and repaired many many many boats. This guy knows the score. :-)
I have found that if you don't want to remove the tape every coat, you can gently run a razor knife at the corner to cut the paint which separates it from the paint on the tape. You might run the risk of cutting into the wood but if you're careful it can be done.
If you want to avoid spilling thinners, turn the can sideways, this will reduce the 'glug' as it takes in air to replace the liquid, ideally the cap should be as high as possible, even if you have to tilt the pot you are filling. ;)
Beautiful shine. Would you recommend using a fairing compound to smooth out the imperfections that are showing up with the gloss coat, then re-prime those patches and repaint? Just wondering, because though the imperfections are small, they would drive me crazy. Perfectionism is great when building for a customer, but it can be a disability as well, because everything takes so much longer. Thanks if you reply.
Thomas Russell. I used this paint and primer on a 110' x 3' with 10" sides cement bar top. I used the TotalBoat TotalFair fairing compound on top of 2 coats of primer. Sanded and re-primed and sanded. The fairing compound had a different shine that I could see. Re-primed same thing. The 4 coats of primer was sanded down to 220 grit and it looked like the top coat. Put a top coat on it and it looked like the moon. Creators and scratches all over it. I could still see the fairing compound through the top coat as it had a different shine to it. So I sanded everything back off. I then put 3 hot coats of primer on it. I sanded it down to 400 grit. I then used a 3M Dry Guide Coat P/N 05860 and sanded, 320 grit and re-primed 2 more times until all the guide coat would sand off. WOW! It looked like car paint. Re-sanded with 220 grit and put the top coat on. Re-sanded with 320 grit and put the second top coat on. People commented that it looked like ceramic tile. It was like glass with just 2 top coats. I hope this helps. Note: An asshole came to change the light bulbs above the bar and dragged the 14 foot ladder across the bar top. Looks like I will be going back to fix the bar top for my friend at the expense of the lighting company . You can't fix stupid.
@@tracyockey3138 yeah, stupid is as stupid does. Arseholes like that just need to be taken out to the wood shed, if you catch my drift. No consideration for anyone else's hard work, at all. So many selfish people out there it makes me sick. I love it when I come across a true craftsman that really cares about his/her work. The end result shows how much one cares. Then some idiot goes and wrecks it? Oh, I'd be super heated under the collar. Good luck brother, we knkw you can fix it, but the point is that if people had some consideration, you shouldn't have to.
@@thomasarussellsr Love the woodshed idea. I think the thing that upset us the most, was the lighting company asking us to prove, they did the damage. They brought a different ladder with rubber shoes on the bottom, and a mat to show us they did not do the damage. My friend that owns the bar was asking for the cost of the paint and the labor only. I did not charge him the first time as he is a close friend. So, he said! No problem, he will see them in court, and he will be asking for the paint, labor, the cost of air shipping to the Caribbean and the loss of revenue for the 2 weeks it will be shut down to repair. They said, “Ok see you in court”. They were shocked when they went to court and my friend showed the security film that showed everything from every angle; even above as it scratched deep into the paint. We will be doing the repair in August. All costs and lost revenue paid for by the lighting company. Even the hazardous goods cost of $250 U.S. for each gallon of paint and primer. Never lie and show different pictures of a ladder and mat under oath in front of a judge. I asked my friend, why he did not tell him about the cameras. He said: They never asked! LOL.
When pouring paint, twist the can when you go to stop pouring and that dribble of paint that you have to wipe off of the side of the can will be caught in the can.
This is the most satisfying video I’ve watched in a long time. When I see the paint start leveling out after your brush strokes it’s like sitting in a hot tub.
Only Lou could get me to watch a 20 min. video about literally watching paint dry. She looks great.
Lou's videos are the most informative on the net. The way he goes about explaining what and why leaves nothing to the imagination. He lays out a step by step blueprint as to how and why he is doing whatever it is he's doing. I think he was made to do these types of videos. His great wealth of knowledge and experience along with his gift for teaching make these vids a must for anyone looking to build these types of boats.
Great video Lou. Another tip I learned from painting lots of airplanes is when you pour the paint out of the gallon can, don’t pour from the side where the instructions are. That way you don’t cover up the instructions on thinning and application.
This is so simple but I have been doing it wrong every time. Thank you!
You could probably wrap paint can in shrink wrap and peel off when done.
That little trick of patting your brush on the side of the paint container is a trick that was showed to me years ago and leaves the perfect amount of paint on the brush in my opinion.
The white looks great on the dory. It really lays down and give the boat a nice shine. The boat is turning out great.
I came across this site I am hooked on it watching and listening to a man that builds boats the old fashioned way and a man of his skill level that loves what he is doing to him it not only a job but a hobby he tells and explains everything he does he teaches peoples
Your trick of putting the holes in the groove I was shown that when I was a kid and I'm 65 now and it does work. Love your videos.
Thank you for another highly addictive and informative video, this time a series! I now have 2 wood boats, both very substantial vessels in their own right. You are teaching woodworking. While I'm good at framing and building house projects, I saw my need to expand my skills when it came to boats. You answered that need in ways you may never know. I will try to express to you just how important your videos and teaching are to me.
One boat is a 1958 Curtis, 28' cabin cruiser. Philipine mahogany plywood construction. We won't see that wood again. It needs updating of electrical, instruments and finishes. That I can handle. I've already taken a deadly 120v, no breaker shore power system and installed a breaker panel, galvanic isolator, battery charger and inverter. 12v has been sorted out with a breaker panel, propulsion functions separated from house functions and plenty of safety items installed. Your videos are giving me the knowledge to make this a gorgeous boat.
The second boat is rather amazing. Built in 1929 at Lake Union Drydock, the Mary Ellen Davis at 50' was the largest and last of the Lake Union Dreamboats. She was commissioned by Fredrick Davis, the senior accountant at Weyerhaeser lumber as a wedding present to his new wife, Mary Ellen Weyerhaeser. She needs extensive frame replacement and a complete replanking below the waterline. (Aren't showers without a sump drain fun in a wood boat?) Until I started watching your videos, I was at the mercy of local shipwrights. Now I have a clear direction as well as the ability to put her back to her original splendor. Sweeter still, with all the bluetooth tech, I can throw out the radar and the old depth sounder and have all that in color on a laptop. The pilothouse will look like 1929 again.
Thank you so much. I'm learning with every minute I spend with you in the shop.
Great to watch a true artisan. Your attention to detail is something to behold.
Sooooo much fun! I know it is old news by now but I can't wait to see you launch the boat and start rowing away. No matter how old one gets, the capacity to enjoy remains intact. That's a good thing, isn't it? All best.... :-)
She is beautiful, the paint brings out her line perfectly. Can't wait to see her in the water
In the immortal words of the Master: “It looks a lot more like it does now than it did before!”
Nice paint work Lou. This dory is really going to sparkle on the water!
Great video as usual Lou, really enjoy how you talk us through what you are thinking as you do each step.
been watching for a while now. (binge watched all the early ones I missed). Thanks so much for the great show!!! they just can't come out fast enough.
So close to the finish line!!!! It's looking fantastic! I can't wait to see it in the surf!!
You just reminded me how much I love brushing out a gloss finish! Very rewarding.
Love it. Thnx as always, Lou. I was watching this video from afar as it was playing on my tv and it really helped me see how small the dory actually is. Really looking great and can’t wait to see you take it to the water. Love the socks too.
Am really looking forward to seeing the dory in the water and hopefully how she will perform in the surf or at least in the coastal sea.
Beautiful boat
Beautiful! Thanks Lou, for sharing your skills and experience.
Hello Lou. An old time furniture finisher gave me a tip that may be helpful. He kept a small spray gun filled with thinner handy. He would apply a coat of (in this case) varnish, then he would mist the thinner on the top, then tip the varnish. Kept it from flashing and running, and saved him a lot of labor in the long run. I agree, with any coating, less is more. It's better to put on multiple thin coats, than one thick coat. Thanks for the video. Jon
What a master craftsman! I so much ENJOY your work! Thank you so much Lou!!
Really enjoyed your boat builds and coming to end of this one now and sharing some excitement about your next project... fingers crossed for a yacht of some description!
Great work I might have just sanded and varnished the whole boat but white makes it look so nice and clean, highlighting the beautiful planking and the shape of the hull.
Thank's Lou for all the effort you put into your channel, so entertaining and informative.
Great to see you having fun,I'm having fun watching you have fun👍😊
Just caught up with this channel your almost sounding a little bit like Bob Ross there chap, the joy of painting.
Nice work lou! Its great to be learning from you!
Looks great Lou!
What a superb paint job!
Beautiful work Luis!👍Looking forward to the launch!
Thanks for the tips! We are about to use TotalBilge to paint the entire interior of the head on our boat. Most tutorials were for bilge application, and I was worried about getting it on too thick or or losing the wet edge. I think we will probably use your approach with the thinner so it doesn't go on too thick.
You look like a professional to me!
If you want to know how I know you’re making this fun and interesting it’s because this clip seem to only last about five minutes but it was really almost 22. very entertaining! didn’t get bored. I’ve watched some Clips from others on you tube that I got bored to death I want to switch off after about a minute and a half. great job! keep it up! You really make it interesting and you are giving some really good information.
I really in joy watching your projects and looking forward to the next one!
Wow, This project is looking wonderful.
Try pouring thinner, reducer or any quart or gallon rectangular can holding it sideways. I learned this tip from a friends Dad who owned a auto body shop. I always pour tipping the can on it's side. And never spill a drop! I hope this makes sense. I really enjoyed this series and always learn so much. Thanks Lou!
I've used the Wet Edge and special brushing thinner,good products.Very good tip about the tape! learned that the hard way.
Hey Lou
I’ve been following your channel since you started on the sport dory. Then I watched your work skiff build(my favorite). I appreciate how patient you are and your willingness to be open to new ideas. I’m going to build a wood boat someday because of your videos! I can’t wait for that adventure in learning. Have you thought about doing a video visiting Leo on his Tally Ho build? I’d love to see that!! Thanks for what you do!
Looking superb Lou. Love it!
Louis really enjoying your videos mate, great to pick up tricks from other tradesmen and see how they tackle different problems. Being a painter for over 40 years I would of sprayed it but seems how that may not of been an option for you may I suggest a couple of things to make life easier for you next time. Next best option would be to use a roller to spread the paint out before tipping it... much like glossing a door.
Now if you only have a brush I would use a crosshatch technique, by that I mean you spread out the paint lets say on a two to three foot section as you would normally but then go back over it at a 45" from top to bottom, left to right with the first stroke the next go for top to bottom but this time from right to left at a 45"... a bit like a tennis player, backhand, forehand, backhand, forehand as you work your way down that plank. What you're trying to achieve is spreading out the paint as thin as can before tipping it off. Finally always tip it off back into the paint you've just layed down, I also would use a bigger brush 75mm or 100mm, 3 or 4 inch just to help with applying the paint.
One final tip would be to spray same water around to keep the airborne particles down, I know it would be near impossible in a woodworking shop unless you made a clean room up out of plastic sheets but you should paint in a dust free environment.
Anyway hope that helps and even though I'm new to your channel I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy watching you at work.
ps. Also a thank you to your mate behind the camera for the nice clear shots.
Time for a Gansett!! Kooks great Lou!
Louis thank you for the tips about painting that you provided in this video. 🙂
Beautiful job on the boat and the paint really made it pop.That thing should glide across the water slick as snot.
I wish I had seen this before painting my boat with polyurethane. nice job as always.
Most epic paint stir stick ever...
Your approach is humble and I like that about you. At your experience and skill level, which I would consider Old School Master, you still defer to research. Your study of TH-cam videos to sharpen your skills and pick up pointers is proof that you still consider yourself on a voyage to perfection.
Looks good Louis !
Beautiful! Not a professional painter here either, but I've had great success spraying polyurethane paint. I've never actually brushed it on.
"I'm not a professional painter....." Funny. I know what you're saying, you are a shipwright! Your work is excellent, nice explanation of the different tricks for painting with one part polyurethane on lapstrake. We like using it because it is easy to use, economical and it wears well. Mighty Mini rollers from Jamestown Distributors work great for those who decide to roll and tip, when we use those we brush the lapstrake lip first, then roll, the tip. She's looking awesome!
Wow looks truly amazing 👍👍
Great Pointers !
Never used poly paint. No one I know has used it. Look it up on youtube - nothing very good. While being very honest about his experience with the product, Louis has modestly/inadvertently produced the best tutorial on the web!
There's a book or two by authors that are considered authoritative on finish work... but those titles are a couple decades old by now. And most of the rest of YT is a bunch of rank amateurs vlogging their attempt to figure it out (whatever type of work in question) for the very first time themselves, just by trial-and-error. Often with results of dubious instructional value. Only a very few of the truly knowledgeable old-style "Pros" have gotten into the TH-cam game yet, on old skills like these.
The game is changing, on how to learn this stuff. Not everybody is keeping up. Not enough opportunities left for young folks to pick it up the old way, by working with an old-timer in person. (Leaving aside the option of paying through the teeth for some overly precious formalized niche "trade school" scenario, to learn an almost-extinct "Trade" that'll never earn back the investment.) Hopefully with a few guys like Lou here, and Leo (of Tally Ho project notoriety)... Some of what were once-upon-a-time considered somewhat common "boatyard skills", will be preserved for the younger generation, before the last remaining scraps of working waterfront get turned into condos.
Boatworks has some excellent info on spraying the Awlgrip products. I just finished my first project with it and his tips really helped me. Repainted my carbon fiber spar and boom on my sailboat. I set up a spray system. Basically I followed the instructions with little trouble. You can test paint on a piece of glass or plastic to test for the correct amount of reducer and cover. I used a scrap mirror from an old closet door that I was scraping.
i've used this poly paint on a plywood/epoxy skiff. rolls and tips nicely, looks good, cheap. held up this summer to a lot of hard knocks and beach landings.
Great job. Thank you for sharing you’re knowledge.
I’d like to build a boat with my kids (6 and 8). For your next project can I suggest something pretty easy and kid friendly like a little day sailer or small runabout? Otherwise I’d love to see a bigger boat like a Downeaster! Love your stuff Lou! I always learn something!
Nice result. I saw a few spots along the garboard/bottom chine that could have used a bit more fairing, but other than that it looks good. Roll and tip works very well if you have smooth hull (carvel), but brush painting is best for lapstrake as you said. I prefer to paint on cool days, but you don't always have that option. I painted my starboard side this year on a 45-50 degree day and it came out great. The port side was done on a 60-65 degree day and didn't come out nearly as nice with quite a few spots where I could see brush strokes from tipping after it dried despite thinning as I painted.
Hi Louis - a quick tip for you - hold the reducer can sideways ie widest part up/down, rather than pouring with the spout at the bottom - you have more control and less 'glugging'.
Can't wait to see the boat in the water and the look of pleasure on your face.
John B
Adler Video I’d do one better and pour with the spout on the top
Someone needs to design better cans for such things IMO!
I’ve found best way is to hold it vertically with the spout on the high side. On a new, full can, it helps to tilt it just slightly away from vertical when you start.
its actually designed not to glug and spill if you hold it with the spout at the top as rcpmac said
Yeah, cmon Lou...you should know better 😉 I learned that from my dad years ago. Spout should be at highest elevation so liquid stays in can maximally!
🎉I Love Your Videos🎁!!! Very Informative Everytime👍🏻👍🏻
Keep Up The Good Work🏆
Thanks🥇
Much Respect💎 From TUB From Bermuda Island 🇧🇲🗺🌏February 17th 2022📆
Lou by the time you get finished you are going to need to get some white gloves so you can touch the boat to put it in the water. BEAUTIFUL job. You going to try it out before you make the oars?
Louis, watching you build boats is really therapeutic and a great antidote to all the political BS we get thrown at us.
BTW in my experience also it's usual to have to keep thinning as you work down the pot.
I could not agree more with your comments. I am hear to take a breather from the plethora of negative threatening news out there.
Louuuuu!
Love your your focus and quality!
Hoping your next endeavor is leading a team of 5 building a schooner..
***need for hvlp gun intensifies**** amazing work Louis! been watching every single episode since the beginning of the skiff build.
Artist at work
I'm no painter by a long shot, but when you tip the paint, try to do it the other way. Start at the finish and draw back, lifting and moving at the same time when you reach the end of the stroke. That way you don't get the "stamps" from the brush in the paint you are trying to tip.
Kinda like when you are hand planing a long plank moving backward.
Lou - after adding the thinner to the paint pot, it would have been great to dunk the stick again to show the change in viscosity as the thinner paint drained off the stick. This would show us what to aim for before painting.
If you plan moving forward with painting stuff in the future, a good and simple paint can shaking mechanism is to take an orbital sander, and place the cup (without any sanding pad) one the top of the can (having a smaller pad helps because it fits a wider range of cans) and then turning the whole thing upside down. Turning it on for of 2 3 minutes, usually does the trick.
I actually dedicated one of my sanders to it after the handle broke, and another trick is adding one or two stir sticks inside as it forms a breaker barrier for the moving paint.
I'm wondering how this paint would work in a spray gun since they do have a reducer for it? I spray just about everything I make. Love your videos, you are a true master!
Nice tip Brush in paint then tap both sides, my father was a master decorator one of the first tips he gave me as a boy. Keep the pain on the brush :-). I can see you don't have paint all up the handle which is a good sign of control.
Nice job!
Lou,I always cut my paint with penetrol,it helps the paint level out nicely
Just a little tip; I always pour the paint out on the front, label side of the can so that any instructions are not covered up by the paint that inevitably spills onto the side of the can. Then always have a wet rag (water or thinner) to wipe this up immediately to keep the can clean.
I am looking at using a polyurethane to repaint my freighter canoe. I see you're not wearing a respirator while brushing. I will paint the inside and outside of the freighter. Is it necessary to wear a respirator? I'll be painting outside. Thanks love the channel.
Just found your channel, very nice videos. The question I have is do you have to protect the bottom of the skeg from abrasion? will the paint just scrape off?
if you would have had the ability to spray paint this job it would have come out extremely smooth and quick. however for having done it with a brush you did a very nice job. I only say this as someone who has been painting professionally for better than 35 years. you did well for only using a brush and there have been times when that was all i had to work with. attention to detail matters.
Hi don't know much about painting boats but could you use a lamb's wool roller on the hull all ways love your vidios kind regards
I thought that paint was for above the water line? Can you use it on the bottom?
Nice job one tip I can offer is that when you pour your paint out of the tin do so on the opposite side to the instructions.
Cool, Lou. Looks a million dollars...
i have a question , if boat is going to be in the water more than 72 hours well the paint hold up ? on the directions it said 72 hours, i want to uses this paint on the bottom of my boat she is made of fiberglass and she stays on a trailer when not being used my trailer has soft plastic slides no carpet and i well uses the epoxy barrier primer 2 coats and sand good before applying. And i hope it looks half as good as yours.
Ha ha ha ha ha This guy is a hot shit. Love his videos. I am a retired lobsterman of 45 years and have painted and repaired many many many boats. This guy knows the score. :-)
Sorry Lou and team I had to mark this video as inappropriate. You are simply having way too much fun.
That and I can't wait to see what's next.
I have found that if you don't want to remove the tape every coat, you can gently run a razor knife at the corner to cut the paint which separates it from the paint on the tape. You might run the risk of cutting into the wood but if you're careful it can be done.
My three year old was fascinated by the fact that a whippin stick could be used to stir paint.
Brush strokes in all directions to stretch out the paint then try tipping back to front will give a flatter finish which out ridges
I like to do all my laps and seams really thin only! Then start Laps
Curious as to why you didn't roll it on than tip it?
Try a foam roller and tip with a foam brush. Love your videos 😘
How much reducer can be added before it makes the paint too thin to cover and protect the dory?
That is bright white!
If you want to avoid spilling thinners, turn the can sideways, this will reduce the 'glug' as it takes in air to replace the liquid, ideally the cap should be as high as possible, even if you have to tilt the pot you are filling. ;)
buy any chance lou could the harder be kicking off and making the paint thicker when you were adding the reducer
Beautiful shine. Would you recommend using a fairing compound to smooth out the imperfections that are showing up with the gloss coat, then re-prime those patches and repaint? Just wondering, because though the imperfections are small, they would drive me crazy. Perfectionism is great when building for a customer, but it can be a disability as well, because everything takes so much longer.
Thanks if you reply.
Thomas Russell. I used this paint and primer on a 110' x 3' with 10" sides cement bar top. I used the TotalBoat TotalFair fairing compound on top of 2 coats of primer. Sanded and re-primed and sanded. The fairing compound had a different shine that I could see. Re-primed same thing. The 4 coats of primer was sanded down to 220 grit and it looked like the top coat. Put a top coat on it and it looked like the moon. Creators and scratches all over it. I could still see the fairing compound through the top coat as it had a different shine to it. So I sanded everything back off. I then put 3 hot coats of primer on it. I sanded it down to 400 grit. I then used a 3M Dry Guide Coat P/N 05860 and sanded, 320 grit and re-primed 2 more times until all the guide coat would sand off. WOW! It looked like car paint. Re-sanded with 220 grit and put the top coat on. Re-sanded with 320 grit and put the second top coat on. People commented that it looked like ceramic tile. It was like glass with just 2 top coats. I hope this helps. Note: An asshole came to change the light bulbs above the bar and dragged the 14 foot ladder across the bar top. Looks like I will be going back to fix the bar top for my friend at the expense of the lighting company . You can't fix stupid.
@@tracyockey3138 yeah, stupid is as stupid does. Arseholes like that just need to be taken out to the wood shed, if you catch my drift. No consideration for anyone else's hard work, at all. So many selfish people out there it makes me sick. I love it when I come across a true craftsman that really cares about his/her work. The end result shows how much one cares. Then some idiot goes and wrecks it? Oh, I'd be super heated under the collar. Good luck brother, we knkw you can fix it, but the point is that if people had some consideration, you shouldn't have to.
@@thomasarussellsr Love the woodshed idea. I think the thing that upset us the most, was the lighting company asking us to prove, they did the damage. They brought a different ladder with rubber shoes on the bottom, and a mat to show us they did not do the damage. My friend that owns the bar was asking for the cost of the paint and the labor only. I did not charge him the first time as he is a close friend. So, he said! No problem, he will see them in court, and he will be asking for the paint, labor, the cost of air shipping to the Caribbean and the loss of revenue for the 2 weeks it will be shut down to repair. They said, “Ok see you in court”. They were shocked when they went to court and my friend showed the security film that showed everything from every angle; even above as it scratched deep into the paint. We will be doing the repair in August. All costs and lost revenue paid for by the lighting company. Even the hazardous goods cost of $250 U.S. for each gallon of paint and primer. Never lie and show different pictures of a ladder and mat under oath in front of a judge. I asked my friend, why he did not tell him about the cameras. He said: They never asked! LOL.
When pouring paint, twist the can when you go to stop pouring and that dribble of paint that you have to wipe off of the side of the can will be caught in the can.
you are an artis sir
Thank you Lou.
Is it recommended to sand between coats?
Wait. You use top coat paint for bottom paint ? I am confuse.
How long do you like to stir epoxy to make sure it goes off?
The more costs of paint the better it looks and longer lasting?