After seeing this video I finally did mine this afternoon as the bottom seal was starting to drip. I also used 1.5 inch plastic pvc waste pipe (like what’s under your sink) to push in the seal. Didn’t need to take it off my sink, had some laying around. But thanks to all these tips I did it under the car. Just started the engine, and that blew the seals out enough to just pull them out with a screwdriver. Used the plastic pipe and a trolley jack to push the new seals in. All in all not that hard of a job.
I haven't looked at your video for longtime as i haven't had any trouble with my defender for a while n you make me smile as learn what i need to know all the time😂 I just love the way you're just simply natural and clearly passionate but also very funny like if you don't mean to n just enjoy your style like i'm sure many of us Thanks for your video mate😂
Tubes! I'm a collector of tubes. You can never have too many. Angle too. Then there's steel and aluminium plate [note the spelling there]. I had some old computer cases that I couldn't bring myself to throw out and they sat in a corner for years. Last month they were used to make a box that was sunk under the driver's seat to put a sub woofer in. Only place it would go. Never throw anything out that might be useful. One day.
Mike, you made my day when you covered that spline diameter with tape, amazing how easy it is to forget, and some don't realise how important that seal lip is to preserve. You only have to just start pushing it over the spline and instantly one seal trashed...
Thanks for your video on this, i did my 1978 2 door classic Range Rover steering box yesterday using the same seal kit. Worked fine, took me 30 mn in all.
Hi mike when i done my steering box on my disco 1 i used a jubilee clip to compress the seal gently then tapped it home with a tube like you ...great vid as always 🥃
Warming the seal up in boiling water helps by making it softer so that it is more flexible, I will try your trick as well as boiling water next time. Thanks.
@@BritannicaRestorations may be thé shaft, I assess with a camera, what I see is that the top of the box is wet with hydrolic liquid, i alteady removed thé bolt and ad à copper seal, but still humid...
@@BritannicaRestorations i don t know since there is liquid every where, what i noticed at least is that there is liquid on thé very top cover of thé box. I m afraid that thé leak increase when liquid warms, think it is not same pb. I keep on with caméra, from all dry(cleaned thé top).i ll tell you.
If you used a cheap kit, the lock nut on the top is just a pain nylock nut - the better quality kit has the correct nut which seals on the under side see here www.roversnorth.com/parts/rtc4394_locknut_power_steering
Hi Mike, great video's as usual!. I have a six bolt steering box that's leaking, would you recondition or rebuild? I've read so many negative comments on recon boxes that it's really put me of buying one. There doesn't seem to be too many rebuild kits for the 6 bolt available, can you advise in any way ?
You are right Ian - not many kits or parts for the 6 bolt = have a look at LRW site for the Gemmer and you can see available parts at the bottom of the page- I can see there is a kit RTC5071
Hi Mike I wonder if you can help me? I’m going to change the cam belt on my Freelander. I’m quite happy with the procedure. I looked up the torque settings for the crankshaft pulley bolt, again happy with that but, after the torque settings it had stage 2 +60, stage 3+60, stage 4 +30! I’ve not come across this before and don’t understand what it means, any tips please?
You didn't say what engine but here is a good guide to the 1.8 K series engine forums.lr4x4.com/topic/9652-freelander-18i-timing-belt/ The numbers you quoted look like head bolt torques..
@@greerbox ...the 60,60 and 30 are degrees....you need to torque it to whatever torque then tighten it by turning the nut 60 degrees then a futher 60 degrees then finally 30 degrees....damn tight is the technical term :)
Wow thanks grump. So do you do it at the same time as torquing the bolt ? Or is there a time period. Seems a lot of faf, why can’t you just torque it up
@@greerbox yup, you torque it then tighten it by the various degrees..you can buy degree discs to make that easier...it's a pain to do but supposedly stretches the bolts by just the right amount
After seeing this video I finally did mine this afternoon as the bottom seal was starting to drip.
I also used 1.5 inch plastic pvc waste pipe (like what’s under your sink) to push in the seal. Didn’t need to take it off my sink, had some laying around.
But thanks to all these tips I did it under the car. Just started the engine, and that blew the seals out enough to just pull them out with a screwdriver. Used the plastic pipe and a trolley jack to push the new seals in. All in all not that hard of a job.
Good man!
I haven't looked at your video for longtime as i haven't had any trouble with my defender for a while n you make me smile as learn what i need to know all the time😂 I just love the way you're just simply natural and clearly passionate but also very funny like if you don't mean to n just enjoy your style like i'm sure many of us
Thanks for your video mate😂
Welcome back!
Tubes! I'm a collector of tubes. You can never have too many. Angle too. Then there's steel and aluminium plate [note the spelling there]. I had some old computer cases that I couldn't bring myself to throw out and they sat in a corner for years. Last month they were used to make a box that was sunk under the driver's seat to put a sub woofer in. Only place it would go. Never throw anything out that might be useful. One day.
Indeed I have a collection of tubes for the press
Mike, you made my day when you covered that spline diameter with tape, amazing how easy it is to forget, and some don't realise how important that seal lip is to preserve. You only have to just start pushing it over the spline and instantly one seal trashed...
When I do part 4, I mention these seals are best fitted with the shaft out - but you still need to tape the spline!
I’ll never restore one of those but I enjoyed it. Had to pause Netflix to watch part three.
Last part later today!
Do I hear the sound of thousands of sinks being dismantled to get that special tool? It looks a perfect fit
Great tip ..... thanks
Yes it does!
Thanks for your video on this, i did my 1978 2 door classic Range Rover steering box yesterday using the same seal kit. Worked fine, took me 30 mn in all.
Glad it helped
And that is Great!! Ha ha ha, you sounded like Jeremy Clarkson for a moment there...;)
Can you buy that blue seal and cover by ithem selves
STC2848
Well done Mike, as always.
Thanks again!
Kaputt. Das ist gut. 😜Thank you very much for this description. Greetings from Germany!
Glad you liked it!
I literally have to do the same job on mine next week. Your timing couldn't be better!
Mike. Oh my - jolly good one old chap ! Hope a set of heavy duty steering arms will be fitted to 'Muriel from Malawi' ? V.
No upgrades on this truck! Costing a fortune to get it back to normal!
It'd be fun doing that in situ !
I'm struggling to get this seal into place with the box in situ . I can get most of the seal lip in but always get left with a bit sticking out .
Be patient and keep trying - use a plastic tool not a metal one that may cut the seal
Hi mike when i done my steering box on my disco 1 i used a jubilee clip to compress the seal gently then tapped it home with a tube like you ...great vid as always 🥃
Great tip!
Warming the seal up in boiling water helps by making it softer so that it is more flexible, I will try your trick as well as boiling water next time. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, it is very helpful, God bless you sir.
You are welcome
Hi Mike, i did this work but i have to do it again since it is leaking again. Any advice for thé quality of seal kit ?
Might be the shaft that is scored? Corteco seal kits are the best
@@BritannicaRestorations may be thé shaft,
I assess with a camera, what I see is that the top of the box is wet with hydrolic liquid, i alteady removed thé bolt and ad à copper seal, but still humid...
Like this?
th-cam.com/video/9PlhvWG4vME/w-d-xo.html
@@BritannicaRestorations i don t know since there is liquid every where, what i noticed at least is that there is liquid on thé very top cover of thé box. I m afraid that thé leak increase when liquid warms, think it is not same pb. I keep on with caméra, from all dry(cleaned thé top).i ll tell you.
If you used a cheap kit, the lock nut on the top is just a pain nylock nut - the better quality kit has the correct nut which seals on the under side
see here
www.roversnorth.com/parts/rtc4394_locknut_power_steering
Try to do this on the car. 🥃🤔
Do you have the part numbers for these seals and where you got them from? Great videos as usual. Cheers Peter
I put another vote in with Peter’s fantastic video Mike.
Thanks, Keith
Did you have the part numbers for these seals etc and where you got these better ones from? Great video as usual. Cheers Peter
www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/92813/2254/power_steering_box_seal_kit_4_bolt___defender___discovery_1___range_rover_classic
@@BritannicaRestorations do these seals fit a D2 steering box?
D2 is QFW100140
Thanks Mike!
@@BritannicaRestorations cool. Thank you , really appreciate it. Cheers
Hi Mike, great video's as usual!. I have a six bolt steering box that's leaking, would you recondition or rebuild? I've read so many negative comments on recon boxes that it's really put me of buying one. There doesn't seem to be too many rebuild kits for the 6 bolt available, can you advise in any way ?
You are right Ian - not many kits or parts for the 6 bolt = have a look at LRW site for the Gemmer and you can see available parts at the bottom of the page- I can see there is a kit RTC5071
Thanks Mike, the advise is greatly appreciated.
Hi Mike I wonder if you can help me?
I’m going to change the cam belt on my Freelander. I’m quite happy with the procedure. I looked up the torque settings for the crankshaft pulley bolt, again happy with that but, after the torque settings it had stage 2 +60, stage 3+60, stage 4 +30!
I’ve not come across this before and don’t understand what it means, any tips please?
You didn't say what engine but here is a good guide to the 1.8 K series engine
forums.lr4x4.com/topic/9652-freelander-18i-timing-belt/
The numbers you quoted look like head bolt torques..
Thanks Mike that very useful info
@@greerbox ...the 60,60 and 30 are degrees....you need to torque it to whatever torque then tighten it by turning the nut 60 degrees then a futher 60 degrees then finally 30 degrees....damn tight is the technical term :)
Wow thanks grump. So do you do it at the same time as torquing the bolt ? Or is there a time period. Seems a lot of faf, why can’t you just torque it up
@@greerbox yup, you torque it then tighten it by the various degrees..you can buy degree discs to make that easier...it's a pain to do but supposedly stretches the bolts by just the right amount
You German is super!
Just try use the T more hard in „das isT gut“ to push it to „Perfektion“
I will keep trying!
@@BritannicaRestorations greetings from Germany and thank you for the nice content!!!!
Hllo frnds im same wark .m loking u and wark .r nice man nd nice wark thnkss
Thanks and welcome
Land Rover should be employing people like you to design there cars
40 years too late!
@@BritannicaRestorations you would still build something more reliable than they could today lol
You could leave the engine out and it would be more reliable..