In case anyone was wondering about the factory speaker wires: Blue/Red = Left positive Blue/Brown = Left negative Black/Red = Right positive Black/Brown = Right negative
@@Brandoncoopper that would be personal preference but no need to disconnect them really. ive done systems before and ive just left the factory sub but you can totally unplug it if youd rather just hear the bass from your new sub if its more crisp than the factory one
Getting ready to remove the 12l7 kicker from my truck and install it into my wife’s BWM so this is forsure gonna help I love the fact that the battery is in the trunk lmao less wiring for me to do In my truck I had to wire it from the engine bay to my back seat and thank god that Gmc made AUX channels down the door panels or it would have taken a lot of time and effort lol Thanks for the video my guy
Hi, I am trying to put active subwoofer in my bmw 2012 F30 without the nav but I can't find audio output cables like shows in this video.Any help would be appreciate.
If 8 follow your guide. What I don't get once X2 line outs from convertor plug into sub where does the remote line go? The sub I'm looking to get is active one with built in amp
Is it possible to connect external sub directly to the factory amplifier or after market same harness amplifier?. I just dont want to cut wires because im not good at it anyway. Thanks
I don’t think it’s possible to connect an external sub directly to the factory amp, but you might be able to replace the factory subs under the front seats with aftermarket subs, as long as they required the same power
I believe if you use the line output converter to tap into the factory amp wires, you can then plug the rca cables into the line output converter and the other side of the rca’s directly into your external amp. If that is what you meant
@@vanboyautosFYI yes u can there’s a company called TechnicPNP that sells a LOC that was made to plug in directly to your amp then goes to the subs it’s a T harness they built
Thanks for the vid - did you disconnect your ground when doing power hookups? BMW states that they never - ever - disconnect batteries in their newer cars. Did you leave it connected when you did the power hookups? + first or - first?
This is a great question! I personally did not disconnect the power hookups, I was able to just loosen connectors on the battery and add my sub connectors in, so the battery was never fully disconnected from the car
Yeah I almost never disconnect the battery to install car audio. I've never been shocked or had any issues. You shouldn't have to worry about anything unless you are cutting active power wires and leaving them dangling for whatever reason. You should be able to do your entire install without ever touching the cars power system leaving the last thing you actually do being putting the fuse in to complete the system, and as long as the car is off when putting the fuse in, there shouldn't even be any kind of sparks. I've never had issues with any of my installs either, like starting fires or shorting things out.
how did you connect your remote wire, you only connected to your output converter, so how does the amp know to shut itself off? can i just skip the rem over the entire converter and plug it straight into my amp?
So with the specific powered sub I used, it has an auto turn on/off built in which I set to "AUDIO" so that it turns on when it receives signal through the speaker wires, and off when everything shuts off. I would think your solution of connecting the remote directly to the remote turn on port on your amp would work too!
@@nikeswoosh4539 funny enough i bought my sub a few days ago and i’ll be installing it next week, i was just researching on how to do this in my new car, so if you figure it out let me know, and if not i’ll let you know what works
@@nikeswoosh4539 i just connected another t tap to that really thin wire and connected it directly to the amp and it worked perfectly, no need for fuses
I did the same but still not very good bass in the cabin. It’s seems I need some type of pass through. How about you? Are you satisfied with the bass that is making to your main cabin?
There can be many reasons for poor sound from a sub in the trunk but I'll try to keep in short and simple. Amp quality and subwoofer quality matter. If you want that deep deep shaking bass, you're going to not only need the amplifier to push the watts the sub itself will have to be capable of producing frequencies well under 40hz (20hz range minimum really). Once you choose the sub(s), look at their specs and get an amplifier that WILL deliver the wattage it's RMS power is rated to. THere are a couple of YT channels that dyno test amps to show people who's lying about wattage, find an amp from their recommended lists. To complete the trifecta you also need to find or build a box that matches the subs airspace requirements. There are online calculators to help you figure out box dimensions. If you combine these 3 things (Amp, Sub, Box) correctly you will have a better experience. (BONUS) Which direction you point your subs or it's ports can make a big difference. In hatchbacks you want them facing up into the back glass so the sound reflects off it and right into your ears. It actually sounds different if you were to say face them toward you or the back of the car. The same applies to trunks and even trucks. The box I had in my truck behind the seat got much louder to my ears when I faced it backwards oddly enough instead of forward like most truck boxes will have you do. Experiment with turning your box in a different way to see if it makes a difference. As long as YOU think it sounds good when you're driving, who cares if others can't hear it?
Mine is hooked up the same way put when i got about 3 quarter up on the volume my subs will shit off if i turn it back done they come on anyone have any idea on why that is i have the base on the car turn all the way down and my amp is about half way up
When you turn the volume up, the more wattage it uses. Most likely your amp is not powerful enough to handle the wattage. What amp wattage and sub wattage do you have?
Yes It does work been rocking sub for past 10 months I use the same line output converter as in the video one thing to note not sure yours is the same but my positive is red & blue in the video it's red and white
@@starbwoy4963okay so the positive was the big red and blue that is next to the big brown? And then for the vcc+12 (yellow) what did you connect it to? And then did you connect the remote power wire to the red/white skinny cable that runs with the fiber optics? Sorry for all the questions you’re just the only source I’ve seen do this
Yes the big red and blue next to the big brown wire That's where the vcc+12 connects to and I connect the amp remote wire to a fuse in the truck that turns on and off with the car
Is there any chance you could break down the wires and clamps? In the video you state you used blue for positive and red for negative and yellow for whatever. Which colored wires have the blue clamps and which have the red? The portion showing them clamped makes it somewhat difficult to see which is which.
My goodness. All these other junk of TH-cam videos don't show remote wire. I thank you for showing a remote wire. Simple and easy. Thank you 🙏
In case anyone was wondering about the factory speaker wires:
Blue/Red = Left positive
Blue/Brown = Left negative
Black/Red = Right positive
Black/Brown = Right negative
I noticed there’s a few pairs of each color, each a different size in thickness. Which ones did he plug into? The thinnest one?
Do you unplug the under seats subwoofers or just leave them all on ?
@@Brandoncoopper that would be personal preference but no need to disconnect them really. ive done systems before and ive just left the factory sub but you can totally unplug it if youd rather just hear the bass from your new sub if its more crisp than the factory one
@ThePhysicalGamers1 the thickest one are the cars subwoofers. That's where you want to tap into with a line out converter
@@Brandoncoopper turn down the factory sub use them as mid bass
red & white (positive)
brown (ground)
little black (remote)
what color for the negative? also are they all the same color for left and right?
Getting ready to remove the 12l7 kicker from my truck and install it into my wife’s BWM so this is forsure gonna help
I love the fact that the battery is in the trunk lmao less wiring for me to do
In my truck I had to wire it from the engine bay to my back seat and thank god that Gmc made AUX channels down the door panels or it would have taken a lot of time and effort lol
Thanks for the video my guy
Hi,
I am trying to put active subwoofer in my bmw 2012 F30 without the nav but I can't find audio output cables like shows in this video.Any help would be appreciate.
Hi, great video and very helpful. 1 question - the twisted wires leading to the factory subs under the seats. Which is left and right…?
I need to know this too lol
@@nateminter9174 did u find out ?
did you find out ?
5:50 starts the good info
What ones were positive and negative wires
Great video, never covered the remote wire
I can’t find mine, I don’t have an after market stereo and my model is a 2014 320i, any tips?
If 8 follow your guide. What I don't get once X2 line outs from convertor plug into sub where does the remote line go? The sub I'm looking to get is active one with built in amp
does it apply to all BMW F30 models? like 320 for example!!
I need this dude help so bad with this converter I got the same car
thks mate .. really cool and easy to do! the internal sound improves by how much would you say? And your speakers are still stock?
Is it possible to connect external sub directly to the factory amplifier or after market same harness amplifier?. I just dont want to cut wires because im not good at it anyway.
Thanks
I don’t think it’s possible to connect an external sub directly to the factory amp, but you might be able to replace the factory subs under the front seats with aftermarket subs, as long as they required the same power
@@vanboyautos thank you
I believe if you use the line output converter to tap into the factory amp wires, you can then plug the rca cables into the line output converter and the other side of the rca’s directly into your external amp. If that is what you meant
@@vanboyautosFYI yes u can there’s a company called TechnicPNP that sells a LOC that was made to plug in directly to your amp then goes to the subs it’s a T harness they built
Hello, this us one of the best videos i have found regarding this topic!
Did you still have the underseats subwoofers working? Thanks
Thanks, I’m glad the video could help! Yes, the underseats are still working as well
Thanks for the vid - did you disconnect your ground when doing power hookups? BMW states that they never - ever - disconnect batteries in their newer cars. Did you leave it connected when you did the power hookups? + first or - first?
This is a great question! I personally did not disconnect the power hookups, I was able to just loosen connectors on the battery and add my sub connectors in, so the battery was never fully disconnected from the car
Yeah I almost never disconnect the battery to install car audio. I've never been shocked or had any issues. You shouldn't have to worry about anything unless you are cutting active power wires and leaving them dangling for whatever reason. You should be able to do your entire install without ever touching the cars power system leaving the last thing you actually do being putting the fuse in to complete the system, and as long as the car is off when putting the fuse in, there shouldn't even be any kind of sparks. I've never had issues with any of my installs either, like starting fires or shorting things out.
hey is there anyways you could tell me what wires connect to what form the loc
Please!?!
where do you get conectors to the clams ?
Is it a stock stereo u got the sub and amp connected to ??
Yes! Stock stereo system
how did you connect your remote wire, you only connected to your output converter, so how does the amp know to shut itself off? can i just skip the rem over the entire converter and plug it straight into my amp?
So with the specific powered sub I used, it has an auto turn on/off built in which I set to "AUDIO" so that it turns on when it receives signal through the speaker wires, and off when everything shuts off. I would think your solution of connecting the remote directly to the remote turn on port on your amp would work too!
Hey man currently installing an amp did you ever find out if connecting directly to amps rem worked?
@@nikeswoosh4539 funny enough i bought my sub a few days ago and i’ll be installing it next week, i was just researching on how to do this in my new car, so if you figure it out let me know, and if not i’ll let you know what works
@@ben-sf3ix sorry to get back to you a little late but I ended up using a fuse tap and and connected it directly to a fuse.
@@nikeswoosh4539 i just connected another t tap to that really thin wire and connected it directly to the amp and it worked perfectly, no need for fuses
Where did you get the splitter for the front bumper?
i actually found it on ebay, just search "F30 front splitter" and look for one that matches your bumper version!
Dumb question all the other wires I got down however what did you hook the yellow wire to that's the (ACC+12V)
To the amp
Does this work for a 528i
Great video. thanks
Prolly a dumb question, what if I skip line output converter in my 540i?
It won’t work lol
I did the same but still not very good bass in the cabin. It’s seems I need some type of pass through. How about you? Are you satisfied with the bass that is making to your main cabin?
There can be many reasons for poor sound from a sub in the trunk but I'll try to keep in short and simple. Amp quality and subwoofer quality matter. If you want that deep deep shaking bass, you're going to not only need the amplifier to push the watts the sub itself will have to be capable of producing frequencies well under 40hz (20hz range minimum really). Once you choose the sub(s), look at their specs and get an amplifier that WILL deliver the wattage it's RMS power is rated to. THere are a couple of YT channels that dyno test amps to show people who's lying about wattage, find an amp from their recommended lists. To complete the trifecta you also need to find or build a box that matches the subs airspace requirements. There are online calculators to help you figure out box dimensions. If you combine these 3 things (Amp, Sub, Box) correctly you will have a better experience.
(BONUS) Which direction you point your subs or it's ports can make a big difference. In hatchbacks you want them facing up into the back glass so the sound reflects off it and right into your ears. It actually sounds different if you were to say face them toward you or the back of the car. The same applies to trunks and even trucks. The box I had in my truck behind the seat got much louder to my ears when I faced it backwards oddly enough instead of forward like most truck boxes will have you do. Experiment with turning your box in a different way to see if it makes a difference. As long as YOU think it sounds good when you're driving, who cares if others can't hear it?
My remote never turns off 😅
I just installed a sub in my f30 im getting battery charging warning and headlamp malfunction ac also stop blowing hard 🤦♂️
Get a new battery the drain is too much causing these
Has anyone done this to a g22 or g23? I need to know if i can connect the remote wire the same way or what fuse to tap in the trunk. pls hellllp!!!
remote wire should be fine to just tap
Is the process the same or similar for a F10 model?
Same
Mine is hooked up the same way put when i got about 3 quarter up on the volume my subs will shit off if i turn it back done they come on anyone have any idea on why that is i have the base on the car turn all the way down and my amp is about half way up
When you turn the volume up, the more wattage it uses. Most likely your amp is not powerful enough to handle the wattage. What amp wattage and sub wattage do you have?
can i do this same thing but with a separate amp and sub?
yep, would the LOC would go into the amp instead is all I believe
Bonjour cable remote vous avez pris de ou ?
My wire is black and white
Can you confirm if this way works on Hk system?
Did you ever figure out if it works?
Yes It does work been rocking sub for past 10 months I use the same line output converter as in the video one thing to note not sure yours is the same but my positive is red & blue in the video it's red and white
@@starbwoy4963okay so the positive was the big red and blue that is next to the big brown? And then for the vcc+12 (yellow) what did you connect it to? And then did you connect the remote power wire to the red/white skinny cable that runs with the fiber optics?
Sorry for all the questions you’re just the only source I’ve seen do this
Yes the big red and blue next to the big brown wire That's where the vcc+12 connects to and I connect the amp remote wire to a fuse in the truck that turns on and off with the car
@@isaacstretch106 If u give me ur contact I can show you a video of the setup
What year is this?
This was in a 2016, can verify it works for a 2018 as well!
Is there any chance you could break down the wires and clamps? In the video you state you used blue for positive and red for negative and yellow for whatever.
Which colored wires have the blue clamps and which have the red? The portion showing them clamped makes it somewhat difficult to see which is which.
I think that sub has a built in loc
how many t taps do you need? anyone know?
6
Wait so you didn’t use a AMP ?
It’s built into the subwoofer
Great video but I didnt understand this part th-cam.com/video/lbSnl8CTOH4/w-d-xo.html , why you to connect RCA with DIN Connectors together.
Gracias excelente información 👌
p̲r̲o̲m̲o̲s̲m̲ 💯