Installing LED COB on passive heatsink
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Here I install a Bridgelux Vero 18 LED onto a heatsink. The LED is about 45 watts, and the large heatsink can easily dissipate this heat, raising only 30 degrees in stagnant air, and almost no increase in a moving air environment. I now have it in a room with a fan circulating the air, and I can't feel any heat at all, it's barely warm.
The LED cost under $20 at Digikey, and the sink was about $15, plus shipping, from HeatsinkUSA. The power supply will cost me around $20, plus various surplus parts. All together fairly expensive, but since it will last me 15 or 20 years and save a fortune in electricity, I don't mind! (It will probably pay for itself since it's 5000 lumens will replace about 350 watts of incandescent light, and can easily light any room! Plus, it can be dimmed down to far less power and still equal a 100 watt bulb.
I'm sure I can use this size sink for a larger LED, so I will next try a Vero 29 which can run at 120 watts. That will be another video. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Travail précis et minutieux , bravo ! Et merci
Bienvenue monsieur!
I saw a video where 110cm2 disapates 1 heat watt. And LEDs become more inefficient as they get bigger. I think he was using a 5-10watt led. He found it was 56% efficient. So 44% of total wattage was wasted as heat. Let's say your 45watt led was 50% efficient. That would mean 22.5 watts is being wasted as heat. So you would need (110cm2 x 22.5) ~ 2475.0 cm2 of total surface area on your heatsink to disapate the heat generated. Nice video.
Whoever said larger means less efficiency doesn't know what he's talking about... the reason I like a large LED like the Vero29 (29mm) is because you can get over 200 lumens per watt. A small LED like a V8 (8mm) averages 100, you're lucky if you can get 120. Right now I'm working on designing a battery operated emergency light, and even though I only want 150 lumens, I'm going with a V18 so that the battery lasts 2 days, not 12 hours, which is what you would get with a small 150 lumen LED. The V18 could output 12,000 lumens!
I usually use a fan for cooling, I only use passive on small lamps like ceiling lights (no noise). This video was just a test.
Thanks for your comment.
dude. I gotta do this to repair 220 lamps with 100w COBs that came overdriven from the factory. Gotta adjust each driver and replace the chip. wish me luck.
Good luck! I hate doing so many repetitive things!
My friend have you ever built a grow light system ?
Yes, and all this work I'm doing is to improve it!
I used to use a lot of fluorescent lamps to keep my coleus over winter, and I even tried tomatoes one year. (not too good) I plan to convert about 1/4 of my basement into growing tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, and whatever else I can since I love fresh salad.. I experimented in growing some herbs for a friend, who grows the same under 450 watt HP lamps, and I produced a better plant after 60 days with my LEDs.
Check out my other video as well, and take care, it's COLD outside!
That's a great goal my friend ! Winter veggies are so nice to have !
good stuff
Hi. Can you tell me from your experience what surface heat sink need for 3 watt power led? or if is some calculation for that? I have 3 watt led X 4 pieces mounted on the same heat sink aluminium(4,5 cm/4,5 cm X 3 cm) and after couple minutes heat sink is around 70 degree Celsius. Any suggestions,please ? cheers
+Robert s Your heatsink is rather small... the smallest sink I've used was on a 4 watt LED, and it was about 8cm x 8cm with 3cm fins. I've also used a 10x4 with 4cm fins. Lots of times for small LEDS I use whatever hunk of metal I can find, as long as it is larger than around 100 square cm.
You are dissipating 12 watts so you want something big, maybe 10 x 10 with 4cm fins. You can see in the video the huge size I needed to cool a 45 watt LED. With no air movement it got up to 40C.
Flintsmooth Thank you for explanasion. I've used my small radiator and added cpu fan running on 12 volts with 27 ohms resistor. My source is 15 volts/1.2 Amps connected 4 leds x 3 watt/650mA each in series and doesn't heat more than 50 degree after 15 minutes of use.It is my first led bulb from start to finish. It is noise but next one will be only with large heat sink like you suggested. Cheers
I could not see exactly how the supply wires were attached to the LED unit?
+Peter Owens I used a Molex connector that is available for these LEDs. You can also solder wires to them.
hey, tnx for the video.
I'm about to mount some cree cobs, I'm wondering about preparing the heatsinks, I've heard to sand it down to 1000 grit but I cant find anything conclusive, do you sand down your heatsinks before you mount? (i plan on using precut 3m squares for the TIM)
Yes, the flatter the heat sink the less critical is the heat transfer method, either paste or thermal pads. A mirror finish heat sink probably needs nothing! I always sand with at least 600 grit paper, under a flat stone to get a straight surface. I don't use the stone for any other purpose to insure it stays flat. I'm thinking of buying a machined steel plate for this but it's expensive. BTW the worst heat sinks I've found are the ones for CPUs, they are very rough. In one of my videos I show how to check if the LED is properly mounted by watching the current when first turned on. An improper mount will very quickly heat up! It happened to me once when a super small piece of crap got under the LED somehow, I cleaned it all off and started over!
is this really 45W? or 45 watt equivalent?
ty 4 vid m8
Given the choice it seems like the cpu fan is a better option? Those artic cool fans are now only around $10
Did you run an experiment with no heatsink or cpu fan? If so what temps did you hit?
The fan won't last too long if it's running every day, certainly not 10 years like the LED. Also it may be subject to high humidity or dust or something. Moving parts are always a disadvantage! I did start to experiment with passive sinks but I moved to a new house, then I had an accident, and I haven't had a chance to get back into it. I will start again soon, but I can tell you that it depends on the size of the sink and the LED. I have to import sinks from the States and that is freakin expensive, especially shipping on the big ones! A 4" cube sink can maybe cool about 45 watts, and stay below 85C. I'll have more data soon and make new videos.
@@Flintsmooth I loved your video and the information you provided, I didn't already know. I love coming on the internet to learn new things. That being said, I think you would be surprised at the longevity of CPU fans. When I lived in Maryland (I now own a home in Michigan and live there) I ran a 6 core AMD Apu for nearly 8 years straight; full throttle on the factory cooler. Don't ask me why... But it never hiccuped even in the slightest. Never stopped performing and never gave me the idea it would fail. Maintenance is key with anything that has moving parts, every now and then vacuum or use compressed air to clean the heatsink and fan. With passive cooling applications this is nearly negligible, but for active cooling it will drastically increase the lifespan of your fan.
@@troyguinn303 I do have LEDs with fans running, all my grow lights have fans, but my custom house lights are passive. One problem I had was a wire got too close to a fan and somehow got caught in the blade, the LED burned itself black! Could have been more serious, but it open circuited. I make sure my wires are better secured now! I don't mind fan noise in the grow room since I don't spend time there, but in other places I prefer the quiet! I have a grow cabinet in my living room with 4 fans, that can get a bit annoying! I have bought at least 25 different fans from amazon and I test them for air flow and noise. Someday I'll engineer a proper test facility and do a YT video of comparisons. My most powerful and noisy fan is a small Bgears unit, but not all Bgears fans are the same.
Where can i get one of those center punch units?
I got it from Lee Valley.
if you use just heatsink, aka passive cooling, try lubrication of entire heatsink with machine grease, but thiny. This trick will triple increase the cooling and decrease heating.
did you ground this light?
Most of what I do is experimental on the workbench, and I use isolated power with no connections to the outside world, including ground, for safety and practical reasons. Since my oscilloscope is grounded, I cannot ground the electronics I work on or it would blow up! Any luminaire I make is usually case grounded.
I am currently DIYing a 50W COD 220W (Driverless) on some old intel PCU heatsink. this :cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-n2pgpewhfn/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/393584/391141/A57855-001-lg__71618.1555056032.jpg?c=2
During my first testing, the heatsink is reaching 50 degrees, because I supplied the fan with only 5v
Test 2, fan supplied with 12v, cooling is better, and heatsink is around 40-42 degrees.
I like it working at 5v , because fan is not noisy this way. do you think 50 degrees is fine for a heatsink connected to a 50W COD?? with Fan heatsink is reaching crazy temps, at stopped at 80 degrees, because dont wana destroy the led...
Thx for any feedback,
Regards
hi again..good work as ever.how much do you think would be cob temperaure on a vero29 v7 run at 1050mA? around 38W...could you also say me the heatsink code to see the datasheet? it seems to be similar at a m1 passive from artic but with a flat base, isn t it?
what kind of glue did you use?
+Jonathan Tanoto I didn't use any glue, I used a thermal grease that isn't a glue. I've had it for years and don't know the brand. The LED is attached with screws.
is it possible to use a glue gun or solder (?), cz i dont feel like using screws
+Jonathan Tanoto There is a thermal glue for this application, called Arctic Aluminum. It's available from HeatsinkUSA.com
okay, but i'm looking for something that's common and easy to find... any idea?
+Jonathan Tanoto Well, it depends on if you have some thermal grease or not. It's not hard to find, but if you don't have any, just make sure the heatsink where you mount the LED is absolutely clean and flat. Polished to a shine!
If you don't want to drill holes, hold the LED firmly to the heatsink and put some epoxy glue around the edges. Use a small weight to hold the LED down while the epoxy sets. Don't scratch the yellow area!
DON'T USE SUPER GLUE! The fumes from that instant super glue will destroy the LED!
To test your work, check to see that the heatsink heats up in use, and not just the LED. If you can, reduce the power to test.
Improper mounting will destroy the LED, so take care!
Yeah I need help on you got a private email address I have a youtube channel I'm starting connect it to this email you think cobs citizen
u have any old used hi lum cob for i need all the help i got 114volt 320watt 2800mah what can i do with it i got 1212 cluo48. not 1216 help
I don't know what COB you can run with that supply, do you know the output voltage range?
Sir, if you took an hour to do this, the video doesn't have to be an Hour long
The video is 12 minutes long... simple timing not your strong point, yes? Don't like it, don't watch it.