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The biggest LED COB panel yet! Voltage/current tests.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ค. 2018
- This thing is huge and bright. It runs at around 12V, but has no integrated current regulation. This means that if connected directly in a vehicle application the current could be very high and the voltage drop across the supply cable will be a factor in limiting the current.
The circuitry is basically four large parallel arrays of LEDs connected in series to make up roughly 12V combined forward voltage. I did some voltage/current tests as follows:-
10V 7mA 70mW
10.5V 170mA 1.8W
11V 790mA 8.7W
11.5V 1.72A 19.8W
12V 2.85A 34W
12.5V 4.2A 52W
12.8V 5.2A 66W Current Limit of bench supply.
As you can see form the voltage to current ratio the current increases significantly with a small voltage change.
A typical eBay search for this might be:-
www.ebay.com/s...
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...
This also keeps the channel independent of TH-cam's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
It's amazing to think how LED lighting has evolved in the past 15 years, from large lumps of layered PCBs filled with 5mm or 3mm white LEDs, to flat panels of LEDs like these pumping out 70 Watts of light, it's impressive... :D
30 years ago I was playing with components in my Grandfather's workshop, making random circuits, and he always told me to take it easy on the red LEDs because they were so expensive. Like a dollar apiece or something. These days we just throw crap away unless we absolutely need to save it for something.
I guess what amazes me is the sheer light output. The first LEDs I played with (surplus HP and Monsanto) were only useful as indicator/pilot lights where there wasn't a lot of bright ambient light.
70 watts of heat and light.
I was working on LED's for Arrow Electronics (distributor) for lighting back in the 90's. Back then they were really rubbish but it was obvious the tech was on the way.
Similar here. When I was a kid 35 ish years ago, I treated myself to my first LED, a yellow one. Blue ones, white ones, and UV ones weren't even a glimpse in some mad scientists eye yet. Anyway, during one of my dangerous experiments involving a mains transformer, I ignorantly left out the current limiting resistor, and melted the poor thing. It actually stayed lit as the plastic melted, at least until the leads parted company anyway, then I got an electric shock from the dangerously bare mains side as I unplugged it in a panic, hahaha, bloody kids eh?? I doubt any modern LED would even get close to surviving that punishment. I was gutted though, that LED cost me a fortune, and I stupidly killed it. Was lesson learned though. I'm actually using some 30 ish year old red LEDs for a project at the moment, because the colour and brightness of modern ones is just wrong and not in keeping with the setting in which the equipment will be used. I love the colour of those old LEDs :-)
I bought several of the smaller size Clive played with in a previous video. I am using a 555 timer based PWM to dim it, and a 6.8 ohm current limiting resistor. Been running it for hours and it is still running cool. Thank you Clive for finding and playing with these things.
Just want to point out that your video descriptions are top notch.
Normally the only suggestion of how the viewers could get something is an Amazon affiliate link, where we find an inflated price. Here we get the right ebay search, with the right filters already on, so that we can get the best possible deal. Thanks for looking out for us Clive.
I like the "dumb", no inbuilt regulation stuff. That way you can put exactly what you want, and run it with no loses with a "barely enough" power supply.
Take it outside at night and fire it up. Let's see what it looks like.
I really want to buy these, but I don't need any more of them.
Time to start a new project, I guess.
LazerLord10 make a grow light from them
Thomas: Just peel off the phosphor?
Use them as tiles in a bathroom...
Exactly my thought. I soon have a new bench light :-D
These work VERY well used on a three-cell Lithium battery pack.
The full battery voltage is at the full drive voltage of the light.
Then, as the battery runs down, the light will gradually dim, giving you a handy indication that your battery's running low.
The LED cutoff is just above the safe minimum voltage of a 3-cell pack, so even if you set it and forget it, it shouldn't over-discharge.
Only complication is that you may need some way to cool the panel at full power/full charge, until the battery runs down a little. Fortunately though, you have 12v right there if you wanted to connect a fan and heat sink system ....
I just love you fascination with lighting effects. A very neat panel indeed...Thanks for the Demo.
0:30 almost all these ebay sellers are drop shippers. they hold no stock, they never even see any of the stuff they sell. they just list stuff on ebay and pass orders and payment, minus their cut, onto big warehousing and mailing services. thats why you see the same items with the same photos and identical descriptions listed by dozens of different sellers. you could pick any of those identical listings and no matter who you order from, it will come from the same place.
yeme that would explain things.
They all are drop shippers!!! All of them..
I just read up about 'drop shippers' yesterday. I always assumed the term referred to people that do business by using services that drop their shipment rather than deliver, for example myhermes, but it in fact a completely different meaning - stockless middlemen that just redivert their orders to China.
I just bought one from an Australian seller. It will still take over a weekto get here. Something that should take less than a week.
For some context, it's still called 'drop shipping' if it isn't the entire business model. For instance, where I work we make custom building materials. We drop ship the installation hardware. This way the customer only has to make one order, gets exactly what they need, and doesn't have to pay to ship it twice.
Wohaou ! This one is my favorite COB for now on ! I bought two before the end of your awesome presentation !
Warning: This video contains graphic scenes of LED array mutilation.
The mutilation does make one cringe, but very good information that the panel is 4 regions of LEDs all in parallel, and then the regions in series for about 12v. I like the redundancy such that one or two LEDs failing open should not appreciably affect light output or longevity. Failing short would probably blow the LED off the board with 5A thru the bad chip. The one aspect of discrete or surface mount panels that I don't like losing is repairability, but if the panel can suffer some failure and keep going, that helps a lot.
:(
Kind of a shame, ain't it!??!
Thanks Clive another great video. Makes me want to tinker and get the son involved in soldering which is a very useful skill for mending broken stuff, I've fixed lots of stuff over the years sometimes just by resoldering a wire or 2 where most would just chuck it out and buy another. Feel I need to buy some project boards so I can get him away from his Xbox for a while.
soldering is a good skill to have... I learned when I was a teenager and even though none of my jobs have been the type to require soldering skill, a situation always comes up where something is broken and someone says, "Does anyone here know how to solder?" You can be the one who saves the day and gets remembered when other opportunities arise.
open his xbox and desolder a wire from something. too sneaky?
yeme only if I wanted to die. Spoke to him today about it and he seems really keen. Result for dad I think, have ordered a few little boards to try out so hopefully my soldering skills are up to the task and he picks up this skill. I'll soon have him watching Big Clive with me :D
Nice. I put two RGBW panels on my sound bar for graphic equalizer, and the specs says needed 76 watt PSU for each panel of 8 x 32 LED's for 256 LEDs per panel. Well 76 watts blinds you. In reality, even hidden behind speaker cloth, in daylight, the panel is perfectly visible at 2 watts per panel. The sound bar is on my channel if you want to see it.
Is it weird i find these videos oddly relaxing? Clive's soft voice and smooth lighting in the videos really make me relaxed.
LEDs on the cob..., run!
I'm glad that, with 21 likes and 1 comment, at least 23 people understood this reference :D
12:35 - The current went up 10x when that section was shorted out. And that is with the reduced voltage... if it was being run with a higher voltage PS (not current regulated) the current would be very high and limited "by the wiring". Something to keep in mind when wiring it up.
Nice! Got some of the smaller types you showed a video or 4 back. They work great and only 1 out of 6 had bad LED's on board but the light produced even at 12v is so overwhelming it's not even noticed. Good stuff and thanks!
The colour temperature of these are around 6000K+ so they make good SAD lights.
Thanks dude for making this video with the current testing and such.
Been looking into these large COB panels for a project.
Sit back, and enjoy..unfortunately kids, the only thing burnt today is Clives image sensor in his camera.
or his eyes :(
Looking forward to the 8.5" x 11" sized LED panel. :-) Light up the Night !
When you went to 5 amps, I had to instinctively squint. Which is utterly ridiculous; I'm still looking only at my monitor's dialed-down backlight...
that's true and it's a really fascinating psycho-visual behaviour : your brain "feels pain" from the contrast despite the lack of dangerous light.
It makes you reconsider what pain is and how it works.
I watch videos of people welding and it's the same thing. I've trained myself to know not to look at a welding arc and I instinctively look away.
At five amps, Mr. Spock was freed of the parasite, but unfortunately, he is now quite blind.
"excuse me rambling about, i'm just experimenting" umm... that's one reason why I watch you :D
For automotive applications this lamp would benefit from having a basic 2 transistor constant current regulator so the light output doesn't vary depending on whether or not the engine is running.
Saturday mornings aren't complete without a Big Clive video
Your favourite 100w LEDs are being sold in COB form now, and they're perfectly even
I got some for my garage, they haven't had any issues with dying rows or uneven leds after running them at 90w+ a day
m.ebay.de/itm/COB-LED-Panel-Lampe-Spotlicht-10W-30W-50W-70W-100W-120x36-220X120-200x10mm-/263642714031?nav=SEARCH
they are intrigingly cheap... less then 6 euros...
Luke Den Hartog i find with leds they last forever but its the converter thats dies
A "WHOLE" day? I've ran lots of 10W to 100W COB that lasted 100 hours before dies started dying... You're much better off running something like this at half power and that on a massive heatsink, or closer to 1/10th power if you prefer little to nothing heatsinking it.
Meaning 90+w every day all day... derp.
I'm going to install some of these LED light panels in my 1986-vintage motorhome to replace the 12V bulb-type fixtures that are in there now. I will be living in the motorhome full-time (in a static position) starting later today (hopefully!).
A few years ago, I installed one in a shipping container house that runs from a PV array and a 200AH 12V AGM battery. I have been VERY impressed by it. It's cheap, and has very "soft" output because of the large area.
The motorhome has ONLY 12VDC lighting, so unless I plug in a bunch of extension cords and put up 120VAC lighting, 12VDC is all I can do. Given that I'll eventually be off-grid with the motorhome, 12VDC is actually an advantage for me, as I can run all my lights directly from the PV-charged battery in the RV, without needing to have an inverter on when only lighting is needed. These panels can be easily dimmed, too, so they use just a tiny amount of power to put out plenty of light for most situations, but crank up the knob and they get HELLA bright!
There are loads of choices for 12V lighting these days. You can also convert just about any light to 12V.
I ordered eight of these at the beginning of the month, and they arrived today (here in Texastan). Two of the panels (the ones at the top of the stack) were all 100% uniform tested at 9.5V drawing 2 mA. Two had severe non-uniformity, and interestingly both tested drawing 3 mA. Four had mild to moderate non-uniformity, and all but one tested at 3 mA (the other was at 2 mA). one of the severely non-uniform ones has deep scrapes/scratches in the rear aluminum, the other severely non-uniform one had no issues with the backside. The ones I bought were wrapped in very thin foam sheets, and shoved in a plastic bag and mailed in the bag from China. I'm not sure if this is how they are all being shipped (I would hope not), but it is something that everyone might want to inquire about before purchasing. There was not even bubble wrap.
My numbers should be accurate, my Fluke 117 is NIST tracable.
I'm going to ask for money 3/4ths of my money back from the seller, or replacements that are 100% uniform. I'll update this with the results of that.
Oh, in an interesting coincidence, mine came from "valuedresshop" on ebay.
All mine came in plain plastic bags with minimal packing. They seem pretty rugged though.
This looks like a really neat idea. Some vendors are now selling an impossibly small looking LED dimmer for this COB array that they say can handle up to 12A and deliver 244 watts(!) on 5-24V DC -- all for $2.75 delivered. Ooooookaaaaaay, lets see if it works. If it does the lamp should work well mounted on a homemade aluminum slide suspended underneath the top equipment shelf of my new electronics bench. Thanks, Clive!
While i enjoy watching you taking things to bits, very often i buy those items just to check them out for myself. Now i have a large drawer full of assorted little toys.
The first thing that went through my mind was bulkhead light. I'm pretty certain there are some cases roughly the right size for that. They would fit a small PSU too so you could feed them with say 36-48V reducing your feed current.
Another cool-to-have LED on the shelf right there.
12 rows by 20 is 240 chips. Must have meant 28 across That's a huge COB. Great video!
He said 28
I had to listen three times and still didn’t hear 28. Shrug. No big deal
@@VanFlicke I think he said 20 to begin with but in later comments, after he murdered the first LED he did say 28.
Seems like a decent low profile light panel to build up from.
Too bad the pads seem to be quite small.
New projects in future for sure ! Thanks for the great info !
Wow, I must get this... great big COB element ! Many thanks for the info.
In awe at the size of this lad.
Imagine going back in time late 1970's and you forget this board in you pocket.
Instant butterfly effect. WWIII, dogs and cats living together, mass hysteria!
Only Big Clive Exes can dislike his videos.
Humble suggestion to dear Clive: would you consider compiling a “Q&A with Clive” video? I ALWAYS want to ask follow-up questions of things I don’t fully understand or want to quiz you on, around the subjects / equipment you cover in your vids.
I reckon you assume people know a lot more than they do when they watch your vids (maybe I should just speak for myself!)
This could take the following form. 1) announce on a few vids over the course of 4 weeks that you are planning a Q&A, and pls ask questions in comments. 2) select some questions (ranging from “the answer is bloody obvious” to “oooh that’s a good question”) and make an ongoing list. 3) Make a vid and answer such questions.
This would be amazing for people like me!
Hi Mat, I sometimes leave out some detail for time reasons. Inb the past I have done a Q and A video, but I really should do another. I answered the questions while building something.
bigclivedotcom That’s an infinitely better concept (answer whilst building something). Far less annoying than those pesky Americanised “Q&A with Clive!!!!!1” style titles etc.
My partner Anna has just chipped in: “if I were doing a video I’d call it “In Bed with Big Clive” as you listen to his videos at night time in bed, it’s like there are three of us. I do find his voice very soothing though.”
Haha
I really appreciate you sacrificing the panel in the pursuit of knowledge. Just a shame the manufacturers don't share that info on a schematics document. After all they can hardly keep it a secret given the price !! If this was needed for a critical use, such as an emergency illuminated information display it is handy to know how much illumination you lose if one led were to die. Maybe they just don't want to spend the money getting the design info translated into English? or they simply don't care what happens to them once they leave the sweatshop... erm I mean factory !
Thanks from Texas Clive
Please, please, please do a video showing how to convert a par 64 fixture to led. We are typical poor, skint and broke musicians. We can all handle soldering irons and we can get the parts off eBay, but, we don’t know how to wire it together! Please help us Clive. You’re the only one who can! Thank you so much for your fantastic videos!
Have you seen the generic LED PAR style lights on eBay? They're cheap enough to consider as a consumable light.
I think my welding table is about to get some new seriously bright lighting!
I use smaller 10w versions of these for Yard illumination using an AC-DC 60w 5amp power brick, they do very well for that.
I also have 1 on my Tahoe as an extra Reverse/Illumination light connected to a cig lighter adapter.
That is pretty neat. It looks like it could be a lot of fun!
Hey Clive. Have you seen the range of tools from Aldi? They have several things like £20 soldering stations and £15 rotary tools among other smaller things such as £3 helping hands and mini vices. Might be an interesting range of products for review and testing.
Konnor Bowen aye, I picked up one of the soldering stations. I'm sure the temperature is way out on then, but they do definitely adjust their output and the kit itself is fairly clean and straightforward.
Aldi America must not carry that stuff.
YES! I have found my new front light for my ebike :D
That thing is huge! I probably need one to light my work bench now :)
THis just showed up and I can't believe it's been 5 years already, I bought some of these when you made this video,
As a public service you should expose more of the wiring on the board and discover if it's safe to drill holes anywhere.
Mounting these to a proper heatsink with good/firm pressure will be hard since they have no holes in middle. If it is safe to drill holes in a few locations inbetween the LEDs it would help.
Good effort for the destruction test. Very informative top guy.
I think this would be the perfect thing for people that are converting vans into campers. A nice warm white light that would not use that much power and keep the heat down on rather hot evenings.
Connecting this directly to the potential charging voltage if 14.4V would be very bad though.
hot clothing iron is vice of knowledge -great tip!
Sent you coffee, Great video presentation. Should be in all schools. Thanks.
I got one 7" x 8.25" rated for 300 watts! WOW the light output! Needs a huge heatsink to run cool.
There is a even higher power one on Ebay that I bought and it is rated at 200w and it is in the form of a large circle measuring about 160mm
I got 2 of those driverless led's at 100 watts each. Fantastic light, puts out a ton of heat though with a giant heatsink.
Thumbs up for the wilful destruction... errr... testing! ;-)
How the hell this channel wasn't in my life before?!?
Nice 👍 12 V solar array, to battery, to lighting, or a regulated 12 V supply would be BOSSSS
I wish PAR meters weren't so expensive. I would like to get a closer look at the spectrum coverage of that COB. It seems like a fun COB to wire up a ton of for an indoor grow light. Nice to see another post from ya, Clive.
Moose 8
Might be late, but look for MIGRO youtube chanel. He did a good analysis on this one. Cheers
I bet you can make some amazing grow lights, Clive.
This style of troubleshooting is just what surgeons do!
Excellent video Clive! I must away and order one of these!
Mine is dying I think, it is only pulling 600mA now on a 12 volt Lead Acid, I think one or more LEDs are burning out, despite treating it with kid gloves and mounting it on a large Copper Heat sink.
Woohoo. Big LED light!
@ 11:45 .. this really is getting a LED horror movie.. pocking and munching around.. :-/
One of my biggest pet peeves of Ebay and AliExpress sellers is that they don't often provide a detailed diagram showing the product measurements. That's a key thing to know!
Actually this array consists of twelve rows that each contain twenty-eight individual chips which makes for a total amount of 336 of em. Instead of twelve times twenty, which by the way would add up to 240 and definitely not 346 even though that number which in itself is quite close to the actual number counted correctly. IF this thing would consume 70 Watts indeed, that would mean a consumption of 70 / 336 = 0.208 Watts per chip , and when we would devide that by 3 as if we supposing
the applied voltage per individual LED would ideally be 3 Volts, that gives us a power consumption of 0.06ö4 (say 0.07 Amps or 70 MilliAmps per chip. And as each chip contains three individual, actual LEDs apiece, that gives us an outcome of 0.0231 A or 23 milliAmps per LED. There possibly is a few percents of that that are absorbed by wiring, a few micro components for voltage /surge protection and tp smoothen things out on the circuit and / or on the individual chips as well; taking that on account we still come up with a final actual power consumption that is close to a nice, round 20 milliAmps each LED gets. By the way, I do have a question about this: when the temperature inside the LEDs goes up, does the conductance and with that its own consumption as well as what it can pass through drop as a result? I am aware changes relating to temperate development in the LED /~ chip would need to be measured in nanoseconds. The way LEDs work is they get so hot the variety of individual metallic molecules (for composing the right part of the light spectrum) that are mounted on the tiny little pieces of silicon carrier in them, gets so hot that they start emitting light as a result, uv light which is passed through a layer of phosphorus to give out the right light colour. The LED works basically must like an incandescent light bulb did, but is much more efficient cause it only powers light producing molecules that lay directly on the surface all of which can emit light that can travel into (reach) the outside world ndeed, minimalising the losses in by molecules that are powered and produce loads of heat but are not in a position to bring forth light. Also the conduction is way more stable af sturdy, al the stuff being mounted on a plate that is surrounded by glass and encased / enclosed and it doesn't contain a wobbly filament that dangkes inside and can break by the slightest tremble. Apart from that some of the LEDs adjust to an output of the right (desired) visible light frequency by running the primarily created waved form of the photos it produces (uv) through a layer of phosphorus just like in the fluorescent light sources of the previous generation (tl) and the cathode ray tube in colour tvs (containing the separate photon sources scanning the inside of the tube creating the subpixels and three different types of phosphorus, one for each colour of 'dots' on the screen.. One for red, one for green, and one for the blue ones. It is what the modern ultra-flat LED tv for in common with the old one. Another thing, I do not know what the difference between power consumption and dissipation is, can somebody enlighten me.? Thanx !
So glad you didn't 'TIG weld these', last time you did it was like watching someone beat up R2D2.
Love the cob lights. Got them in my car
This LED look insane :) as I saw it, I immediately thought what kind a project I can make with it! ;D
I might have to get one of these to look at. I recently picked up a 1000x usb microscope. It's good enough to see the bond wires on the COBs.
I think I'm going to buy one right now.
Really good LEDs at this point will actually dissipate more power in the form of radiant flux than they do in the form of heat, and this can kind of fool our senses. Something that is hot is going to have heat coming off of it if you put your hand near due mostly to convection. With LEDs like these however, most of the heat you feel is actually from the photons impinging on your hand, not because the actual source of the light is hot. It still messes with me, because it feels just like putting my hand near something quite hot, but if I cut power, the heat vanishes, and the COB will be much cooler to the touch than something that could ever have produced the heat I felt on my hand via convection.
The newest blue-to-violet LEDs as of 2018 (which are used to make white LEDs of course) have an efficiency of about 72%. Put in 1W of electrical power, and get out 720mW of light, along with 280mW of heat. You can buy them on mouser, digikey, etc, this isn't something in a lab. They're so good they seem almost unphysical.
Seems like it could be part of a pretty nice portable "Trouble Light". Somehow regulate some 18650s with an on off switch?
Neat ... Looks like a lot of bang for yer buck (magic smoke included) .
Putting one of those in a cheapo rip-off led work light (or even an old quartz halogen type) should make a dandy trouble light .
That would be a good way of making a cheap light quite effective. Driven at low power it would probably put out more light than the fixture already had, and stay cool. Still wonder if a real bridgelux or cree cob would be better... and the price is pretty similar. It is amazing how much more light / watt you get out of a "real" led, making you wonder why these exist. These unbranded ones are neat to play around with (i do have some) but they are truly super low end as far as light output goes and need to be cheap... factoring that into a price of more than $10 they are actually a ripoff when cobs that output like double the light for a few bucks more exist, and will actually last.
Looks like it would make a good under-hood light. Need a protective lens and a resistor though. Using 16 ga. wire with a fuse from the battery would be best.. using a switch like a door switch (button switch that's closed with button out).
So, who else FFded to the end hoping to see a white screen and the author screaming in panic "Help, I am on fire and I cannot see anything!"?
I also just connected one of these COB panels to a bench power supply. Using a 5v-24v dimmer switch, I was able to click on 100% brightness without the light blinking , though I don't think this was the true 100% brightness, as my bench supply was putting out a max of only16.4v at 3.16 amps (maybe the max for my bench supply), which is only 51.8 watts. This panel should be rated somewhere between 70 watts to 100 watts.
My question is what is the ideal DC power supply to get maximum wattage out of this panel? Should I stick with 12v and get something that can put out at least 7 amps, or should I go to 24 volts? I will always be running the light with an LED dimmer switch.
He He he I heard your birds chirping faintly in the background. 12:08 cools
This is the first thing you’ve shown off that I’m really tempted to buy! It’s a very nice looking panel, and I got a lot of cool ideas for this. Could you do some more testing? Would it handle 300W for at least 200 milliseconds? Maybe 100W for 400 milliseconds? With heat sink of course, I never go without a heatsink.
the bus bar is on the bottom and on the right you can tell by slowing the video while it blinks on.
Thumbs up for your videos! I really enjoy watching them.
I bought six smaller COB LED panels with each 50 watts to give my pepper plants a little boots of light for winter time.
But they heat up quite fast and i got about 70°C after 7 minutes with one of them mounted to a passive cpu cooling unit.
Could you make a video how to build a passive cooling unit for serveral of those in a row? I was thinking about some kind of aluminium plate.
That is a big ass panel.
I bought four of these a while ago. Thinking of making a work light.
I personally don't like them, because one failure and the whole things is a throw away. Instead I put together my own LED lights using usually 1w diodes, these are attached to a heatsink and then a diffusion panel places over them so the light in the room is diffused into one light and you don't get multiple shadows from separate beams. I have had one LED light I made running for every night for 20 straight years, so it's perfectly effective.
Despite there being no failure as of yet, if there is a failure, you would simply take out the diode that failed and replace it with another diode, so the entire thing wouldn't be a throwaway, but an easy thing to fix. I run mine with a simple cheap LED driver, which changes 230 into 12v at a constant current, the driver is encased in a plastic box, inside that box I assume it's similar to the driver you would find in the base of an LED bulb, the little transformer and capacitor plus diodes setup essentially.
Ages ago I bought some cheap Chinese bulbs, and a diode in the bulb failed, yet it's worth taking out the AC to DC power circuit in it, you can use these to power other LED's easily.
Very very neat! I wonder if I could find some "warm white" ones with known specs... (emission spectrum & CCT).
I think you shouldn't underestimate the accumulated heat though, especially if not directly heat-sinked (or actively air-cooled). I don't think over 1A is realistic for 24/7 usage, if you care about its longevity. Then again, this thing is quite cheap for what it is.
Indoor Growing of plants.
it's winter somewhere
Woooow, I need that!!!
Proyectos LED ¡En cuánto lo tengas, yo veré ese video! Saludos amigo. -Un seguidor fiel (aunque nunca comento) jajajaja
what for, air traffic control? 🙂
Saludos desde Bariloche!
That panel is indeed massive. Clive do you have any way of measuring the Color Rendering Index (CRI) of this thing?
this would make a very nice arm light for bench work or the mother of all flashlights
Anders Sorenson this would make a nice work/flood light but a Cree XHP70.2 would make a more efficient concentrated beam for a 4290 lumen flashlight and only use 30w.
Please - never touch the yellow Part of a LED.
If you are working with such LED's, you should know that and follow it. Otherwise, a defect is preprogrammed.
Sooner or later, the fat on the skin will burn in and make the LED unusable.
In addition, the slightest pressure can break / tear the fine wires on the LED chips.
No wonder that so many LED lights break down over time, when almost no one adheres to the handling regulations.
But, it's still a nice Video.
nice video and Spectacular testing .. i love it
I heard that someone said, let there be light..
Was his first name Clive, too?
Keep up the good work. ..
I would laugh loud if I can mounted those led on a tablet, dead tablet perhaps and rigged it to flash brightly if the power button pressed
I have to make a choice between variable voltage supplies. Should I go for a 3v-12v 10 amp regulated power supply or a 9v-24v 5 amp power supply?
The thing is we need to know is how much blue wavelengths are coming through, as prolonged exposure to such light frequencies has dangerous health effects. This is the issue with most such LED lighting technology using blue emitter elements with yellow phosphor overlays.
Wish they would make those without bezels so you can tile them and have nice even lighting. have the wiring on the back.