Testing out a new bouldering gym
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- I was able to visit a new bouldering gym in France over the weekend called Space Bloc and thought I could share how my session went! I always love trying out new gyms and climbing on different styles of boulders. In this gym, they had very recent holds and quite comp style boulders which were really fun to try!
The gym: www.spacebloc.fr
This is honestly the optimal climbing video to me, just 20 minutes of clean climbing with some explanations on how you adjust
Agreed. So good to watch.
Thank you for being a climbing channel that doesn't exclusively have lo-fi hip hop in the background and way too much talking.
This is exactly what I want :')
I love your videos! It’s very inspiring and motivating seeing a female climber! You’re so strong!
Thank youuu !! it means a lot !
This bit got me good, "Fewer attempts... Unless I feel like I can do it..I might spend 2hrs on it" hahaha me every time I go climbing.
15:43 "So I used my brain"
Captain yokoyami you're hilarious 😂
Dang you are looking super strong here - and I love how you talk through/reflect on the problems and your performance. It's great cues for how to reflect on my own climbing (which is at a mere V4 level atm). Love how this channel has kept up the high quality content!
Thank you!! It means a lot! And yess, I find reflecting after each attempt sooo important, definitely helps with figuring out new methods and body placement!
Hey Sofya, me and my partner are from New Zealand. We aren't very good but your videos inspire us to keep getting better. We love watching you climb, thank you so much for sharing. Take care
Really liked all the little moments of brake downs and adjustments. Helps me climb better. Thanks papi
toujours un plaisir de regarder tes séances de blocs, quelle énergie bravo !
Thank you for this video! The boulders look really cool :D Liquid chalk started to be imposed in gyms in France before COVID, to avoid spreading nano/micro particules in air, since several studies showed that the quality of air in gyms was rather bad. And COVID tended to increase this tendency (not to have all people putting their hands in the same dispenser).
J'ai commencé à te regardé après t'avoir croisé à Arkose (je m'étais dit que j'avais l'impression de te reconnaitre, et après vérification sur les vidéos d'Eric Karlsson j'ai trouvé ! Mais tu étais en prépa pour Moscow je crois, on n'avait pas voulu déranger), et ça fait super plaisir de te voir dans la salle de mon village !! Surtout de te voir essayer (*réussir) des blocs qui m'ont donné bien du mal, ça me motive encore plus à m'améliorer !!
Merci aussi pour l'estimation de la cote des blocs, avec le système de couleurs on n'a aucune idée de la cotation qu'on arrive à grimper ^^'
Continue comme ça tes vidéos sont super ;)
Merci ! Et pour les estimations des cotations, je suis jamais vraiment sûr ahah
Your back is looking sick! Strong climbing!
Nice session…..good climbs !!
Le centre a l’air super cool !!
Nice vid. I enjoyed this one. Keep 'em coming :)
thaaank youuu and will do !!
I’m loving the sound effects. LOL.
Watching your process is interesting.
Yeah, liquid chalk only in commercial gyms in France started because of COVID. Before that, we had big chalk dispensers and that was great! But that’s another thing COVID changed.
Gréât vid as always btw! You look so nice, I feel like having a fun session with you!
Great bouldering session! Enjoyed it a lot. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed it
Just watched the Moscow IFSC, was sad that you didn't make finals but your commentary was amazing. Very enjoyable!!
Great climbs, enjoyed watching
That move at 6:45 or so was awesome. Well done.
What an amazing skill level😊💪
For a while in Quebec we could only use liquid chalk too. At least the gyms were open. 🤷♂️
very unique looking boulders
Great vid Sofya!! Merci!
You are soooo strong! Nice!!!
Thank you!!
1:40 - warm up my fingers on smaller holds, its a V6 - freaking inspiring!
Yeah, she's warming up on a higher grade than I can do 😂
Oh goodness at 6:55 when you stepped atop the slippery backside of that hold i thought you were going to crash hard into the wall and slip. Whew be careful!
Tough climbs! Ive learned that i hate both comp walls and coordination moves lol
These are my favorite types of videos
Very nice video Sofya, i like the explenations and the funny fail faces😁 Very inspiring, keep going
I find your explanations really useful, thank you.
That looks like a great gym
16:50 Theres a saying in the states "put some mustard on it" which means to give more effort. "I needed to put some mustard on it"
I'll keep that in mind for next time !
Great gym 😊
Super Sofya!
Passe nous voir sur Grenoble!!!!
Peace
I'm not much of an indoor climber, but this gym looks pretty sick!!
Actually in France in all climbing gym where there is a restaurant, liquid chalk was used a long time before covid. Any climber like it as it is way more expensive than normal chalk and it's just so long to dry. We are not even allowed to have our chalk bag in comp (excpet in finals) anymore so we loose a lot of time but we just have to accept i guess. : (
Really enjoyed this one!
Yay, thank you!
dope gym, dope climbing
Looking Strong and Beautiful as usual, you’ll make those comp boulders wet themselves 💪 Definitely got that red one the next time you try
sus
Nice video! Nice to watch videos like this just to see great technique in action.
I do have a tip though for future videos. I don't know if it's just me but I felt like you got really close to the camera with your face, which has its charm haha, but I also sort of felt like we were going to bump noses each time. So maybe stand just a tad farther away from the camera next time.
Cheers
Thanks ! ahaha yeah will do, I thought when editing that I was a teeny bit too close 😂
@@sofya_yokoyama Haha, still a great quality video though!
Great video :) Currently on a couple weeks rest for what I think/hope is only a minor pinky & ring finger issue. A little bit of swelling but you're keeping my psych high!
Good idea to rest before it gets too bad ! I hope the rest helps too!!
I'm in a similar situation. Into my 3rd week recovering from a ring finger injury and I think it'll probably be at least another couple of weeks 😭
@@rsoss92js Damn, hope you can maintain the psych as well and come back stronger! Keep exercising in whatever ways you can, at least that's what I'm trying to do to avoid losing too much progress :P
Cool new gym!
haas
C'était top ! Sur le dernier bloc rouge, j'étais tellement dedans que j'ai gueulé "lolotte"...chez moi tout seul ! ^^
Haha… you saying…I’m only doing this level…unless I see something that looks fun…but I’ll just give it less attempts…unless I wanna give it more…is what happens to me every time I go to the gym with the goal of doing easier routes to get in more mileage…. I end up thinking…ooo that route looks fun… 2 hrs later, I’m still projecting
Nice!
waiting to see you win the next competition
saaaame lol
Love the climbing, thanks for that, I personally would prefer no music track
At 13:47 is it possible to get your right foot one hold higher? Or would that move your center of mass away from the wall and make the circle hold very bad?
Dunno the specific problem but I've held (I think) the same dish hold before and a foot that high would make the dish so much worse, you really gotta stay super low on that hold usually.
I did think of doing that but didn't try lol but I thought the exact same thing as what both of you said! The foot is really high meaning it would have been a struggle for my flexible ass to stay low on the hold for the volume to remain good. And also my butt would've then been pushed out a bit more making it harder to stay closer to the wall to grab the hold.
do they just have really tall setters there? looked like everything starts super far from the ground lmao
I know some of the route setters and I wouldn't consider them really tall ahah
Allez!
Only liquid chalk here in Vancouver too (and talk that they'll stay that way after COVID :/). Also: how often does it come up that a boulder problem is set impossibly for your reach / arm span? Do you just walk away like, meh, their problem / not mine... or???
It happens quite often ... the start is too high or the feet or hand holds are too far so it makes the moves suuuuper hard. I walk away 99% of the time when I can't even reach the start holds (lol) but tend to work on the moves if the moves are far just because it's a weakness of mine. But I don't stay on the boulder for very long and walk away quite quickly ahhaha
when you are trying the same problem several times, considder filming it from several different angles.
More please
Ur top is cute!! Where did you get it? Great climbing too!
Thank you ! It's the Strappy Back Cami from Urban Outfitters !
11:35 and 11:50, killer.
Amazing videoooo😁😁😁
I have a question, do you do diet?
Greteengs from Mallorca🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸
Thank you! And noooo, I don't do diets anymore ahah
Nice sofya!
C'est quoi ta séance typique ? tu essayes toujours au moins quelques boulders à ton niveau max ? Pendant combien de temps ? J'ai l'impression de passer les 2/3 de la séance à m'échauffer sur des trucs faciles -> flashable haha.
Most gyms in France were using regular chalk before covid, I only know of one that didn't (block'out) then the federation regulation said that only liquid chalk was allowed. The air is of better quality as a result too!
Souvent quand j'arrive à la salle, j'aime toujours essayer les nouvelles ouvertures (blocs très durs et plus ou moins faciles) et dépendant du temps que ça me prend, soit je fais des exos après, soit je rentre ahaha
Nice video! How long did each of the boulders take you roughly? Did you finish many of them in competition regulation time of 4 minutes?
Thank you ! In the session, I focused a lot more on resting and being efficient in attempts so some of them took around 20min !
@@sofya_yokoyama Cool! Would you say that sort of grade range V7-10 is comparable with (average) world cup boulder problems? I know people say it is hard to grade world cup boulders, but I guess you need to have some idea to be able to train for them?
I was wondering, do you treat dynamic climbs different in terms of how much to rest in between attempts, or max number of attempts? Or is it not something you are concerned about? I sometimes am afraid I will pull some muscle, but I keep wanting to try again and again.
I usually always try to take a good rest between attempts in any kind of boulder just so that I will be efficient in every attempt but I can easily give a loooot of attempts in very little time in dynamic boulders. I don't usually think that I might pull a muscle, but more that with all these attempts, my muscles are getting tired (even if it doesn't feel like it) and I'm not being as efficient in this attempt, need to rest. If that make sense ahaha
Do you have a list of equipment you use to make your videos? mostly curious about the camera setup!
I use my iPhone 12 Pro max to film and have the DJI gimbal to stabilise the phone!
Great view count...the content has been pretty limited...thanks for the vid
And by that I do not mean...your content but rather climbing content in general.
J'aime bien les petits bouts de français au travers du vidéo je me sens comme privilégié de capter sans les sous-titres hahah
In Poland in one gym I know is that rule 💁
Hey Sofya, was wondering what your best sends were in terms of grades? :)
I don't go much outside so it's been a while since I've been able to test my recent max grade but a while back it was 7c+
No idea where you are from, half the English you use sounds American, the other half British, but then you were in Sweden, now in France. Do you have a home? Van?
Born & live in Switzerland, parents British & American & otherwise just have the opportunity to travel a lot :)
tu devrais faire une video en français!! salut du mexique
We used liquid chalk for a time but the gym allowed powder after a few months. Sadly, the gym went back to mandatory masks and I've suspended my membership until they rescind the requirement. Which means home workouts and home climbing wall.
Are you required to wear a mask while climbing too, or only when you're on the ground?
Sending you tons of energy for those home workouts !
first
Very nice video and sick climbing. You should learn to be more comfortable looking at the camera when ypu talk. Your eyes are just kinda darting everywhere but in the camera. It might feel weird to some viewers 😄
yeeeaaah I still find it so awkward ahah every time I edit, I say to myself "need to look more in the camera" ......
Audio is low!
But holy cow you are strong!!
whoops sorryyy
i heard your brother is relly attractive...
hmm nope 😘
cool vid, shit gym