That was very interesting Sam, and clearly shows that despite the wonderful detail achieved in today's models, without powerful and reliable motors, then it all a waste of money...Bob
5:57 smoke from the cab windows, you say you sure it broke down? driver and fireman might just be on a overly long smoke break, it'd explain the smell ;)
As somebody who's been inspired to potentially start my own model railway collection some day, your channel definitely is useful for things like what models to avoid and maintaining the ones I do get, given they require a lot more maintenance than I would have initially thought. Excellent work!
One of my Bachmann 2-8-0s was running and it stopped on a curve and I saw smoke coming from underneath the drivers and turned it off right away luckily I was able to replace the motor and get it working again but then a week later the side rods got messed up while it was running and I’m not sure how to fix it so I was thinking about sending it over to see if you could fix it. Great video by the way. Thanks, Rails Of The East Coast
SAM - Great experiment ! interesting results. You should do a video on how to add a mini fan and heat dissipation fins ! Keep up the great videos, you do more for us than just review the new products !
I thought I was going blind because I couldn't see any smoke. But then I realised my brightness was low so I turned it up. Very interesting and handy video Sam thanks
As of your question of if there was any smoke when the motor failed, there wasn't but there was sparks! (Locos was Tri-ang Jinty from garage sale before being oiled)
I run german steamers on my N scale layout and i always buy them second hand so the most of them are from the 80s and al of them have this motors..... 1:57 now im scared....
Great video Sam 👍 I like the investigation into why it happened And of course the fact you’re not frightened to have ago Or try things out Keep it up👍😊
Yeah even my Bachmann FT once smoked then 3 years later the gears cracked. I decided to junk it, I kept the chassis for a future metal casting project.
The closest I had was decoder burnout due to poor wiring and soldering from Hornby. Was surprised that your experience has seen bachmann with more motor issues. Very interesting to watch and most enjoyable. Most of all hobby safe Sam. Clint
Excellent video Sam,my Hornby Q1 caught fire because the link rod below the smokebox detached itself from the motion and caused a short circuit.This was spectacular as there were flames and smoke in seconds which melted the locomotive body on that side. I removed the locomotive and put the fire out,luckily the mechanism and sound chip were ok.This was a brand new locomotive so this should not have happened, I fitted a new body to the locomotive and did not refit the link rod as the earlier models did not have it.
Obviously, Motors run on their contained smoke. As the % of Load (drag) RPM decreases, (from the No Load value), the brushes and communitator winding start to get hot .Add enough drag and you will find the point where all of the motor smoke is released ! Once it's out, it's Bye, Bye motor ! GREAT informative Video, SAM !
I've never found any better Bachmann ones - they seem to be proprietary (not accidental!) I'm doing a video on the Hornby ones soon! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam great video as usual I have only one problems with your videos they are to short I wish they were longer a lot longer . They are so entertaining and I learn a lot about my favorite hobby it is nice to see others so interested in this hobby. Keep up the great videos.
Sam you are so helpful. My dad has died now but my earliest memory is sitting up in the attic with my dad as he cleaned and ran his huge 00 gauge. My mother making and painting buildings. I love all sorts of railways real and model. Love your videos and have subscribed.....Jayne😊🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂
This is what makes the joys of getting used model trains of EBay is all about. You get to play the “see what engine works and what engine starts belching smoke” game! I’ve played that game about 5 times now… sadly one of those times being with a hornby jinty. Tried to fix it to no avail.
I had that happen with my lima class 08 and also my hornby E2 sparks when it goes over a half turn on the controller, the wheels sparked loads. Only the E2 still works.
It’s amazing that is all it took to cook that motor, a short stall. Will that kill bigger ones that are not open frame? Maybe even brushless types of motor?
Sam. Great video. Don’t know how I missed it before. Anyway, very interesting. Can’t believe half an amp could do that. Keep up these great videos. Even if a few/most don’t cause sparks.
Hi Sam, For the price we all pay for Hornby or other locos they should never burn out ,should run perfect for years and years, these problems should have been ironed out years ago by Hornby etc , Cheers Sam
Are the brushes fragmenting and shorting out the armature? I'm in North America, and I've seen that style of open frame motor in a lot of slot cars, but not model locomotives. (20 years working at a toy and hobby store.)
I wondered that - possibly! I didn't realise they were using the same thing in slot cars - strange, since they don't seem to like getting thrashed! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam. Good video as always. I've had a lot of problems over the years with hornby motors hence now all my locomotives are bachmann. I do however have a good tip. When oiling the motors I use a sewing needle to dip in the oil when lubricating the end bearing. That way its almost impossible to over lubricate and no risk to the commutator. My oldest locomotives are sixteen years old and still on original motors including the brushes. Keep up the good work. Chris.
I have five locomotives that had motor burnouts. Two happened during normal operation, one happened when the plastic drive shafts jammed, and two were from just trying to get the engine to move again (like you did, but these locos haven't burned out previously). All of them were used models except for one Bachmann diesel I got new back in 2011 Most of my motor burnouts happened with "pancake" motors from various manufacturers and various ages.
It'd be interesting to see a video on the few of us that get burned out on model railroading. I packed my locos and layout up awhile back and I just haven't had the drive to restart. It seems to be a common problem anymore, or it is here stateside.
This was only recently but I was running in a spare Hornby Thomas chassis, it made it round the curve for the 10th time and as soon as it hit the points it just snap crackle popped and spat smoke everywhere in a comedic fashion! Doesn't seem to run but tries to, I think a fault was one of the brushes was bent wrong
AHHH it seems my problem with my Hornby B12 is solved. This same motor was factory fitted to my B12 when I purchased it well over 10 years ago. It ran well for nearly a year then due to life getting in the way it was packed away in the original box in a plastic storage tub with the rest of my loco's. A while back I decided to build a layout for my Grandson and, lo and behold when the B12 was placed on the track and power applied it would not run and instead it sat there and emitted an acrid smell and smoke. So not being that confident to strip the loco and motor down and, only this week after watching and getting inspired by your videos I pulled the loco down and dismantled the motor. I thoroughly cleaned everything and what did I find the brushes gone as with your motor but not as bad. In fact I could find no evidence that there ever were any brushes. The only contact with the commutator were the brass fingers that would have held the brushes. All I can deduce from this is that the materials used to make the brushes was so sub standard as to be absolutely useless for the purpose or a very poor quality control issue allowed this model to slip through. I had previously purchased a new motor ( Poweline P1232A ( mk3) from E Bay which was not cheap and will now fit that. I did manage to get the original motor to run again but without the brushes it is totally useless as a spare. What I can't figure out is why did Hornby put these pathetic substandard motors into the B12 and not something more robust such as an XO3 or similar??? At least I can buy XO3's in bulk quite cheaply. So unless I can find a mount to take an XO3 or similar I will be stuck with paying $18.95 or 9.47 English pounds each so quite an expensive exercise. This will now ensure this loco does not get much running time as it will end up being to expensive to maintain. I will contact Hornby to see what they can do but am not hopeful of any sort of positive outcome other than a note saying they received my E Mail.
My Bachman Thomas has a similar open frame motor, and when I went to service it, it had this green gunk in it! Even stranger, the loco had been running fine with it there for who’s knew how long, and after I removed most of the goo, it still ran perfectly!
Yeah they do have a similar motor - that was probably some lubricant - it should run better now that's not inside the motor ;) Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam One of the reason can be your pulse power supply. Those motors were not designed for the power what you supply can deliver ( PWM or just a thyristor chopped 50 Hz). Most of the pulse power packs always deliver in pulse with modulation (PWM) the maximum power to the motor. This method overheats the commutator and the coils ( the commutator has to interrupt and turn on always the maximum voltage from the power supply. ). This method is even more dangerous for coreless motors because of lower heat dissipation capacity.) In old fashion filtered DC power packs the maximum voltage is present only at maximum power ( when you run your trains at maximum speed - how often is this the case? ).. One of the possible solutions is to reduce the voltage what goes into your power packs. ( in DCC for eg to 10-12 V). In your GM power pack it is more complex issue. Just an example. The commutator on a 6000 RPM 3 pole motor interrupts the power 200 times per second (200 Hz) only on highest speed. Every interruption creates a spark and heat. When you use a pulse power supply from GM it adds another 50 or 100 interruption independently from the motor speed, on top of that always with the highest possible voltage ( power). This overheats the commutator and the coils, and finally kills those simple motors.
I'm not there yet. however i did " visit" a loco hobby shop. i learn a lot watching your video. your very easy to listen to. i connect to your style of explanation.. it works for me anyway.... 👍
just had to replace the intermediate drive cog on my Bachmann class 45. but not a spectacular failure, the problem I would guess with the motor appears to me either the bearing or its overheating and jamming due to expansion. most of my Hornby are the older ringfield type and I have so far had little problems with them, they do smoke occasionally but thats usually oil getting inside or arcing
AHh sorry to hear that - glad you were able to replace it though! You very rarely see ringfields fail, which is excellent! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I got opposite experiences with little DC motors in model railways (scale H0) or construction kits. In case of a blockade they consume always their maximum of current, but did not exceed 0,7 A. Common and intended use leads to not more than 0,3 up to 0,4 A in maximum. The small motor type you tested in your video I rather found in N scale models. When voltage applied gets too high and the motor runs freely without any load especially the smaller types begin to make a squeaking noise after a short time and have to get replaced. It is a very bad idea to get "plenty of oil in the bearings" of a motor. E.g. brass bearings have an internal structure allowing them to keep lubrication for a long time due to capillar effects, these types of bearings work a bit like a sponge. If you apply too much oil the lubrication just flies away quickly and make the bearings running dry. The manufacturer of my model locos (H0) (and many others) advises his customers to apply not more (!) than just one small drop of recommended oil on each bearing, for the newer motors they do not want to have any lubrication at all. If the oil reaches the brushes the (always present) arcing converts it into a mixture of coal and tar. Coal conducts electricity and can short the commutator, tar isolates and can prevent the motor from any movement electrically or mechanically.
I bought the Airfix version of the 14xx recently, exclusively for a replica "Titfield Thunderbolt" train, and because it didn't cost too much - The motor seems alright, though the mechanism squeals quite badly in reverse. The motor failure on your more modern one is, er, definitely something spectacular.
@@SamsTrains I've had the loco as far apart as I could get it, seems a lot of the Airfix stuff have totally sealed drive units, though it does run well enough forward for what was roughly £20. Could potentially be something to do with the brushes, not completely sure.
Thanks again for the information, I learned something new again. I seen you had 5 coaches and a brake van when the disaster happened, I have a Terrier with two plank wagons and a Van. If I purchase three or four more wagons to add on, do you think that would be overloading the locomotive. I also took the time to learn to spell a word you used "Effervescence", A good learning day all the way around.
So I watched this video at about 3pm and guess what happened at about half 7? The type m motor in my pug went. Cant find any of them anywhere... where did you get the spare ones? Thanks :)
I once over-sped a pannier and it blew up. Thing is it was a really old and unclean Mainline engine. Luckily I could salvage the engine and now it’s a motorless shell on a display shelf.
Just got a used Broadway Limited Imports Pennsylvania GG1 last week, it stopped running a few days after I got it. I opened it up today and found out the pick up wires on one side of the engine have fried. Working on replacing them now, hoping it works out.
Weirdly enough I actually my Triang class 37 had the same issue with what look liked blimmin thermite. I had sent you an email about it but this answers my question very nicely!
Oddly enough, the exact same thing happened to my 14xx earlier on this afternoon, probably for the same reason. Not totally burnt out though, it still runs but intermittently. I've sent off for a replacement motor and I will check out the old one to see if it's repairable. Nice video. 🙂👍
I have an old 70's 00 gauge Kays kit in white metal for the Bayer Garret with the rotary coal bunker. What is the best motor for it and where from please ? Also the drive wheels are plastic. I need some metal replacement ones but where from ?
Yours must be the only model railway channel that needs Smelly Telly to fully appreciate it. Loved it when you said "it's tatered" (not sure how you spell that). Not heard anyone say that since was a kid!
I'm building a new 'N' Scale train track and on my old track I had run a Fleischmann piccolo 7471. This one also burned down. I took it apart and tested it and burned my fingers. Unfortunately they don 't build them anymore. So I'm down one train. Its to bad.
Uh-oh… I have an original Hornby 58 with this motor. I’ve been running it over here in Canada using US controllers that actually spin up to 18V on full chat, and I’ve just bought it a rake of 12 HAA. I don’t know if I dare run it with a full train now, especially seeing as I’ve got quite an incline to contend with…
None of my locos have ever done this, but I do have a 'pocket rocket' style 0-4-0 that sparks like anything on my second hand track, no matter how much track rubbering I do. I am always a bit nervous of using it!
I've not had a Hornby engine fail but maybe the ones I used to run were quite old! The new small motor in those could suffer from a melted armature carrier by the looks of it, at least it looks cheap to fix. In a way engine failure is a good sign - that it's actually being used LOL. Some of the best quality motors I've seen are in double-bogie Roco electric/diesels, one giant motor in the middle to drive all 4 or all 6 axles. BTW why do you run your trains on the floor, would it not be easy to add some staging for the track at eye level?
Occasionally, the motor on my bachmann n scale u36b will start glowing bright yellow like a light near the motor brushes. She's old and sat unused with a missing brush spring for almost 20 years, it doesn't have too many hours on it.
There is a component of the drive force which pushes the worm away from the drive gear which can deflect the motor axle which also will heat the bearings.
I picked up a set of older diesels on EBay a few months ago and so far, only one of three three has had any life. The two issues are old Triang (I think) Class 37s with the powered truck. Neither want to do any sort of running at all and neither respond what so ever to any sort of current, even after dissasembly, cleaning, and further reassembly. Is there a place I can get working motours for these old things? Edit: also, a Bachmann USA model with a failed motour? Whaaaat? I would have neeeeeever expected that!
Hi mate, yes most of the tri-ang armatures can be picked up as spares from Ebay - you may also need to replace/recharge the magnets, since any weakness there can seriously hinder performance or damage the armatures. haha I know right - who could have expected that?! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Nice video Sam, I would never want that to happen to my model railway, hey I have a question, I have a model railway that is only hornby locos it’s supposed to be my British railway layout, but I’m thinking of making a new layout that is only Bachman locos and that is gonna be only locos from America, mainly diesels, but I was just wondering if ur able to put a Bachman loco on a hornby track and be able to run it with a normal controller cause if so then I’m using hornby tracks for mine.
Sam'sTrains ok thanks that’s really good to know cause the Bachman track isn’t really that good but the hornby is way more realistic so imma use that instead:D
hi sam, has hornby been informed.i keep my jinties to about 7 wagons at moderate speed.my triang one will tow anything.if hornby want to stay around then decent motors.i have not had problems with my wrenn n2 ever
1:06 I spy a classic which was the one that got me to buy MY Triang 3F and subscribe to your channel ;) Really glad to see that the fail didn't originate from one of those, I know they get a bit of a rep for 'looking' dangerous with the Back-to-the-future arcing on the wheels when running sometimes. Great video, Sam!
I have two DCC 0-6-0 locos with type M motors, and they haven't been running very well all of a sudden. One has started smelling bad and running slowly... should I be concerned/do something before the DCC circuitry etc gets fried?
Ahh that could be a sign of a failure - it's probably worth just ordering a replacement motor for them - they're cheap enough on Ebay! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Watch out buying motors off eBay there’s a few fake ones out there ... I know I’ve had the miss fortune of buying one and and after 4 months having not just smoke but flames coming from the motor which melted a hole in the body of the school class ... I sent it off too Hornby with a letter explaining what happened after I sent a email Hornby called me and said thanks for bringing this to our attention and we regret to inform you that the motor was a fake and they have got in touch with trading standards on my behalf
My Hornby Terrier ( Chinese but 20 odd years old) says on the box "Designed for shunting and not for long running." Are those Hornby motors Sam or can you get cheaper versions?
Yeah they're Hornby ones - though cheaper ones are probably available! Does it really say that on the old Hornby box? That's ludicrous!! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hey sam, as an electrician, any chance to get a brushless motor retrofit? I want to see some of your trains getting quite the upgrade! I can work with you a circuit to power up the controller at low voltage in your analog railway, cheers!
That would be very interesting - but could that work with the loco picking up power with only 2 rails? Would there need to be a lot of circuitry?! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Well, not a lot but sure 2 or 3 pcbs would need to find a home on the retrofitted loco, so it needs a bit roomy inside, since for pure dc analog control it would need a DC-DC Buck converter to power itself, the ESC to control the motor an a smal arduino or an ATiny microcontroler to read the line tension and command the esc to speed up acordingly. So I would personaly choose a loco on his way to the scrapyard wiling and capable of such experiment so we have some room to make it work first then downsize it so it fits more locos. On this, a DCC would solve a lot since I wouldnt need to use a Buck converter and only hijack the output to the motor of the dcc controler and give it to the micro so it can translate it to the ESC to drive the motor.
@@acynder1 … and of top of the electronics, you need a constant voltage in the tracks (DC or AC) and some method to transmit the speed information into the locomotive.
Thankyou for worrying me now as I have a Terrier and a 14xx with the same motor. There used to be companies in the model railway magazines who sold decent quality replacement motors from Japan although I can't remember if there are companies who sell the decent quality ones anymore.
You might be thinking of Mashima. I don't think they make model railway motors anymore. I know of at least one place in the States that has some new old stock Mashima motors on hand. Which reminds me I do need to pick up a couple soon for two brass N scale locos I'm repairing...
Your videos are brilliant and you should see and smell what happens to a full size diesel- electric loco after a traction motor or the resistor failer it goes Bang in a Big way ! Lol I was in a class 73 electro- diesels engine room when we had this happen once , keep up the good work .
I know I you feel Sam. I’m from America and I have a dock switcher made from a company called Lionel I got it on Christmas Day I believe it was 2017. I was running it around my Christmas tree, it was only pulling about like 2 cars. But then I realized it was slowing down. I shut it off and it smelled really bad. Turns out that the motor and the reversing unit was burned out. My dad tried to find new parts but he could not find the motor. It hasn’t ran since. 😔
I recently bought a 30 year-old Hornby Black 5 from Ebay. When I was first trying it out, the loco started to smoke quite heavily. However, after a few minutes, and the smoke had disipated, I tried it again, and found that it actually ran BETTER - much more responsive to my controller, and much faster.
@@SamsTrains Yes. A Ringfield Type 5. However, I was assured by the seller that the locomotive had had a good service before being placed up for sale. So it may well have been oil being burned off.
Hi sam, i recently got some motors from amazon, they’re made by acompany called utax, they’re small enough to fit inside a locomotive, they run at 24000 RPMs, will they work for my projects? They only came with a plastic mounting bracket, how do i put them in a locomotive? Do i have to do any soddering to make it work?,i’m trying to avoid using a sodering gun because i can’t see, so the risk of being burned is very hi for me, is there a way to make the motors run without using heat?
I tried an old triang 0-4-0 not realising how old it was. it cause the track to spark, and at the moment it started smoking I took it off the track straight away, I never used it again. But I still have it on my shelf next to my fireplace ( rather ironically )
That was very interesting Sam, and clearly shows that despite the wonderful detail achieved in today's models, without powerful and reliable motors, then it all a waste of money...Bob
Yeah you're right Bob - I've never been a fan of these daft little motors ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
5:57 smoke from the cab windows, you say
you sure it broke down? driver and fireman might just be on a overly long smoke break, it'd explain the smell ;)
haha darn it - that must be what happened! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
either that, or SUPER realistic firebox detail!
As somebody who's been inspired to potentially start my own model railway collection some day, your channel definitely is useful for things like what models to avoid and maintaining the ones I do get, given they require a lot more maintenance than I would have initially thought. Excellent work!
my hornby triang mallard started smoking today! It was terrifying but luckily I could turn everything off before stuff got serious.
How to burn down your model railway:
'they had is in the first half, not gonna lie'
Good video Sam!
You spoiled the video
haha! ;D
Sam is the only one that can keep me entertained while he fixes a train
Awhh that's lovely to hear!! :D
Merry Christmas - Sam :)
One of my Bachmann 2-8-0s was running and it stopped on a curve and I saw smoke coming from underneath the drivers and turned it off right away luckily I was able to replace the motor and get it working again but then a week later the side rods got messed up while it was running and I’m not sure how to fix it so I was thinking about sending it over to see if you could fix it. Great video by the way. Thanks, Rails Of The East Coast
No one:
Not a single soul:
Sam:
*HOW TO BURN DOWN YOUR MODEL RAILWAY*
haha exactly!! ;D
The 14XX was just trying to go thermonuclear like Godzilla 😂
This was both fun to watch and interesting, keep that railway safe my friend ^^
Me: Anything can be a smoke machine if you operate it wrong enough.
Sam with that motor: *S t o n k s*
haha I agree with that whole heartedly! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
SAM - Great experiment ! interesting results. You should do a video on how to add a mini fan and heat dissipation fins !
Keep up the great videos, you do more for us than just review the new products !
I thought I was going blind because I couldn't see any smoke. But then I realised my brightness was low so I turned it up. Very interesting and handy video Sam thanks
haha yeah - it was tricky to see on camera!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
As of your question of if there was any smoke when the motor failed, there wasn't but there was sparks! (Locos was Tri-ang Jinty from garage sale before being oiled)
Ahh dear - yes I've seen it happen many a time :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Great video Sam I have had a couple of motors break on me
Thanks David, sorry to hear that :(
I've had an 0-8-0 that sparked and pored out smoke like it had a smoke machine in it. I was fine and it was fixed
@@fawnathefox9600 *T h e r m o n u c l e a r*
I run german steamers on my N scale layout and i always buy them second hand so the most of them are from the 80s and al of them have this motors..... 1:57 now im scared....
they are from a german brand called Fleischmann. they are very common here in the Netherlands.
Uh oh! I'm sure German motors won't burn out like this - they'll outlive us all! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Me at the end there: this seems really stupid and dumb
Sam: "let's leave the rag there and see it it sets 🔥"
Me: oh wow Sam has gone mental
The GWRailfan Not the only one thinking that!
haha!! ;D
Great video Sam 👍
I like the investigation into why it happened
And of course the fact you’re not frightened to have ago
Or try things out
Keep it up👍😊
Thanks a lot Jon - glad you enjoyed the sciency bit, haha! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
When Sam says meltdown you know it’s good to pay attention to him
haha absolutely!! ;D
Yeah even my Bachmann FT once smoked then 3 years later the gears cracked.
I decided to junk it, I kept the chassis for a future metal casting project.
Blimey that doesn't sound good - definitely worth keeping it for parts though! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The closest I had was decoder burnout due to poor wiring and soldering from Hornby. Was surprised that your experience has seen bachmann with more motor issues. Very interesting to watch and most enjoyable. Most of all hobby safe Sam. Clint
Oh yeah I've had that once or twice before - decoders blowing up - but yes, many Bachmann failures in my experience!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Excellent video Sam,my Hornby Q1 caught fire because the link rod below the smokebox detached itself from the motion and caused a short circuit.This was spectacular as there were flames and smoke in seconds which melted the locomotive body on that side. I removed the locomotive and put the fire out,luckily the mechanism and sound chip were ok.This was a brand new locomotive so this should not have happened, I fitted a new body to the locomotive and did not refit the link rod as the earlier models did not have it.
Crikey Tony, that sounds really dramatic - I've often had loose crankpins on models from Hornby!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Loved the video, thanks for uploading I’ll be careful in future
- Ollie
haha no worries Ollie! :D
Obviously, Motors run on their contained smoke. As the % of Load (drag) RPM decreases, (from the No Load value), the brushes and communitator winding start to get hot .Add enough drag and you will find the point where all of the motor smoke is released ! Once it's out, it's Bye, Bye motor !
GREAT informative Video, SAM !
Ive noticed the older motor has lower gearing, the worm has a finer pitch.
Ahh really, you mean a previous 14xx??
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Also had trouble with Bachmann motors. You mention replacing them - where can you buy replacement (higher quality) motors?
Good question. Also for Hornby
In truth you can’t upgrade them just have to keep replacing them as and when they fail
I've never found any better Bachmann ones - they seem to be proprietary (not accidental!) I'm doing a video on the Hornby ones soon! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Liked that, nice to learn why these are always failing. Great video Sam 👍
Thanks George, glad you found it interesting mate! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam great video as usual I have only one problems with your videos they are to short I wish they were longer a lot longer . They are so entertaining and I learn a lot about my favorite hobby it is nice to see others so interested in this hobby. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks Louis - the next one should be longer! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam you are so helpful. My dad has died now but my earliest memory is sitting up in the attic with my dad as he cleaned and ran his huge 00 gauge. My mother making and painting buildings. I love all sorts of railways real and model. Love your videos and have subscribed.....Jayne😊🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂
Sorry to hear about your dad, but great that you have so many memories - thanks a lot for subscribing! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Me: *looks at the thumbnail*
Also me: NOOO! OLIVERRRR!
haha it's okay - I fixed him! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Very enjoyable.....I had a similar experience with my first train set.....dad was not pleased...haha
haha what happened mate?!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
My wrenn coronation class just caught fire
@@SamsTrains oh god, I have an similar engine
This is what makes the joys of getting used model trains of EBay is all about. You get to play the “see what engine works and what engine starts belching smoke” game! I’ve played that game about 5 times now… sadly one of those times being with a hornby jinty. Tried to fix it to no avail.
One of mine started sparking while still running, then failed
i had the same thing happen to my bachmann class O8 but instead of sparking the motor just died
Yeah that's often how it starts - lots of the old ones get a bit sparky!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains You know the old Hornby HSTs? Well will the Old motors get bad like this? Because I have some in my attic I might try soon to run it..
I had that happen with my lima class 08 and also my hornby E2 sparks when it goes over a half turn on the controller, the wheels sparked loads. Only the E2 still works.
Should have titled this “how to tell Hornby to use good motors “ lol :) love your vids
Good video
haha, that would have been better, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Lolbee-SFM thank you very much I appreciate it;)
It’s amazing that is all it took to cook that motor, a short stall. Will that kill bigger ones that are not open frame? Maybe even brushless types of motor?
I know - not very durable was it? I haven't tried this on other motors, though maybe I should! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Great video Sam! I just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice instructional video. Love your train collection, it's awesome! 👍
Hi Sam I am relieved to see you didn't hurt yourself. You are very brave!
Are you mad with me Sam? Why are you not replying? :(
haha not at all - I've just been getting a lot more comments recently! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam. Great video. Don’t know how I missed it before. Anyway, very interesting. Can’t believe half an amp could do that.
Keep up these great videos. Even if a few/most don’t cause sparks.
Thanks John - yes you're right - you can generate a lot of heat though a small amount of current!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, For the price we all pay for Hornby or other locos they should never burn out ,should run perfect for years and years, these problems should have been ironed out years ago by Hornby etc , Cheers Sam
Yeah I agree - cheap motors like that aren't acceptable!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I love the X03 X04 motors. They are so Easy to maintain.
Even I know how to Fix that motor..!! Dad taught me..!
Good video. Oldie but a Goodie..!😎
Are the brushes fragmenting and shorting out the armature?
I'm in North America, and I've seen that style of open frame motor in a lot of slot cars, but not model locomotives. (20 years working at a toy and hobby store.)
I wondered that - possibly! I didn't realise they were using the same thing in slot cars - strange, since they don't seem to like getting thrashed! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks for the video sam didnt know too much about the open motors learned a lot
Thanks mate, glad you found it interesting! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam. Good video as always. I've had a lot of problems over the years with hornby motors hence now all my locomotives are bachmann. I do however have a good tip. When oiling the motors I use a sewing needle to dip in the oil when lubricating the end bearing. That way its almost impossible to over lubricate and no risk to the commutator. My oldest locomotives are sixteen years old and still on original motors including the brushes. Keep up the good work. Chris.
Thanks a lot Chris, sorry to hear that - yes that's a good tip - I do only use a tiny amount of oil!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have five locomotives that had motor burnouts. Two happened during normal operation, one happened when the plastic drive shafts jammed, and two were from just trying to get the engine to move again (like you did, but these locos haven't burned out previously). All of them were used models except for one Bachmann diesel I got new back in 2011
Most of my motor burnouts happened with "pancake" motors from various manufacturers and various ages.
That's quite a lot mate - and yes I've seen one or two pancake failures :/
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
It'd be interesting to see a video on the few of us that get burned out on model railroading. I packed my locos and layout up awhile back and I just haven't had the drive to restart. It seems to be a common problem anymore, or it is here stateside.
haha that's a very different take - I wouldn't know anything about that, I still love model railways! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
This was only recently but I was running in a spare Hornby Thomas chassis, it made it round the curve for the 10th time and as soon as it hit the points it just snap crackle popped and spat smoke everywhere in a comedic fashion! Doesn't seem to run but tries to, I think a fault was one of the brushes was bent wrong
AHHH it seems my problem with my Hornby B12 is solved. This same motor was factory fitted to my B12 when I purchased it well over 10 years ago. It ran well for nearly a year then due to life getting in the way it was packed away in the original box in a plastic storage tub with the rest of my loco's. A while back I decided to build a layout for my Grandson and, lo and behold when the B12 was placed on the track and power applied it would not run and instead it sat there and emitted an acrid smell and smoke. So not being that confident to strip the loco and motor down and, only this week after watching and getting inspired by your videos I pulled the loco down and dismantled the motor. I thoroughly cleaned everything and what did I find the brushes gone as with your motor but not as bad. In fact I could find no evidence that there ever were any brushes. The only contact with the commutator were the brass fingers that would have held the brushes. All I can deduce from this is that the materials used to make the brushes was so sub standard as to be absolutely useless for the purpose or a very poor quality control issue allowed this model to slip through. I had previously purchased a new motor ( Poweline P1232A ( mk3) from E Bay which was not cheap and will now fit that. I did manage to get the original motor to run again but without the brushes it is totally useless as a spare. What I can't figure out is why did Hornby put these pathetic substandard motors into the B12 and not something more robust such as an XO3 or similar??? At least I can buy XO3's in bulk quite cheaply. So unless I can find a mount to take an XO3 or similar I will be stuck with paying $18.95 or 9.47 English pounds each so quite an expensive exercise. This will now ensure this loco does not get much running time as it will end up being to expensive to maintain. I will contact Hornby to see what they can do but am not hopeful of any sort of positive outcome other than a note saying they received my E Mail.
My Bachman Thomas has a similar open frame motor, and when I went to service it, it had this green gunk in it! Even stranger, the loco had been running fine with it there for who’s knew how long, and after I removed most of the goo, it still ran perfectly!
Yeah they do have a similar motor - that was probably some lubricant - it should run better now that's not inside the motor ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam
One of the reason can be your pulse power supply. Those motors were not designed for the power what you supply can deliver ( PWM or just a thyristor chopped 50 Hz). Most of the pulse power packs always deliver in pulse with modulation (PWM) the maximum power to the motor. This method overheats the commutator and the coils ( the commutator has to interrupt and turn on always the maximum voltage from the power supply. ). This method is even more dangerous for coreless motors because of lower heat dissipation capacity.)
In old fashion filtered DC power packs the maximum voltage is present only at maximum power ( when you run your trains at maximum speed - how often is this the case? ).. One of the possible solutions is to reduce the voltage what goes into your power packs. ( in DCC for eg to 10-12 V). In your GM power pack it is more complex issue.
Just an example. The commutator on a 6000 RPM 3 pole motor interrupts the power 200 times per second (200 Hz) only on highest speed. Every interruption creates a spark and heat. When you use a pulse power supply from GM it adds another 50 or 100 interruption independently from the motor speed, on top of that always with the highest possible voltage ( power). This overheats the commutator and the coils, and finally kills those simple motors.
I didn't have any motor fails on my railway and I had it for 7 years.🚂
Nice video.
Great to hear that mate - lucky you! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I'm not there yet. however i did " visit" a loco hobby shop. i learn a lot watching your video. your very easy to listen to. i connect to your style of explanation.. it works for me anyway.... 👍
Sounds good John - better plan one or two more 'visits' - really glad you like these anyway! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam,
Those tiny motors remind me of the Faller AMS racing cars from the 60's.. Way too small for a loco.
haha I agree - they're way too underpowered!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
just had to replace the intermediate drive cog on my Bachmann class 45. but not a spectacular failure, the problem I would guess with the motor appears to me either the bearing or its overheating and jamming due to expansion. most of my Hornby are the older ringfield type and I have so far had little problems with them, they do smoke occasionally but thats usually oil getting inside or arcing
AHh sorry to hear that - glad you were able to replace it though! You very rarely see ringfields fail, which is excellent! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
You know what they say Sam... once you let the smoke out it never works the same again! Interesting video though. Good job.
haha you're right - very true!! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I got opposite experiences with little DC motors in model railways (scale H0) or construction kits. In case of a blockade they consume always their maximum of current, but did not exceed 0,7 A. Common and intended use leads to not more than 0,3 up to 0,4 A in maximum. The small motor type you tested in your video I rather found in N scale models. When voltage applied gets too high and the motor runs freely without any load especially the smaller types begin to make a squeaking noise after a short time and have to get replaced.
It is a very bad idea to get "plenty of oil in the bearings" of a motor. E.g. brass bearings have an internal structure allowing them to keep lubrication for a long time due to capillar effects, these types of bearings work a bit like a sponge. If you apply too much oil the lubrication just flies away quickly and make the bearings running dry. The manufacturer of my model locos (H0) (and many others) advises his customers to apply not more (!) than just one small drop of recommended oil on each bearing, for the newer motors they do not want to have any lubrication at all. If the oil reaches the brushes the (always present) arcing converts it into a mixture of coal and tar. Coal conducts electricity and can short the commutator, tar isolates and can prevent the motor from any movement electrically or mechanically.
Takes me back to "tuning" slot car motors back in the 60's, many similar problems albeit subjected to much heavier abuse !!!
Ahh yes - I've certainly had a few slotcar burnouts in my time too ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I ran my Hornby set so much and one day when I was younger the motor soon smelt of burning and stopped working. It went in bin.
Oh uh that's not good - sorry to hear about that :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Yea my wethered hornby LNER 0-6-0 doesnt work and when I try and run it I smell burning paint and it was wethered by hornby from the factory!
I bought the Airfix version of the 14xx recently, exclusively for a replica "Titfield Thunderbolt" train, and because it didn't cost too much - The motor seems alright, though the mechanism squeals quite badly in reverse. The motor failure on your more modern one is, er, definitely something spectacular.
Ahh yeah - have you tried giving it a bit of a service? The motors on the older models did seem to be better!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I've had the loco as far apart as I could get it, seems a lot of the Airfix stuff have totally sealed drive units, though it does run well enough forward for what was roughly £20. Could potentially be something to do with the brushes, not completely sure.
Thanks again for the information, I learned something new again. I seen you had 5 coaches and a brake van when the disaster happened, I have a Terrier with two plank wagons and a Van. If I purchase three or four more wagons to add on, do you think that would be overloading the locomotive. I also took the time to learn to spell a word you used "Effervescence", A good learning day all the way around.
It's a pleasure Peter - is it one of the new terriers? I'm not aware of this issue with any of the new ones!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Ok, good news, because it is a new one. Hornby # R3811.
So I watched this video at about 3pm and guess what happened at about half 7? The type m motor in my pug went. Cant find any of them anywhere... where did you get the spare ones? Thanks :)
Wow, that's really bad luck! I got mine on Ebay - do a search for Hornby Type 7 - good luck mate!!
Happy New Year - Sam :)
The first train you showed the grey one I have that and it has problems too :(
Interesting video! I once had a dcc blanking plate melt on my Hornby K1 had to send it back for repairs smelt awful lots of smoke!
Thanks Ryan - blimey I've never heard of that before, scary stuff! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I once over-sped a pannier and it blew up. Thing is it was a really old and unclean Mainline engine.
Luckily I could salvage the engine and now it’s a motorless shell on a display shelf.
Ooh yeah those mainline ones are famously unreliable! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
My nephew managed to set fire to my Hornby First Great Western barbie HST when he was 2. The powercar roof melted, then immediately burst into flames.
Just got a used Broadway Limited Imports Pennsylvania GG1 last week, it stopped running a few days after I got it. I opened it up today and found out the pick up wires on one side of the engine have fried. Working on replacing them now, hoping it works out.
Ahh that's not good mate - sorry to hear about that :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains It’s all good, I actually brought it back to life last night. Thanks for the support.
Thanks Sam! I was dying for a tutorial how to burn down my railway. This helped!
Lol 😂
Glad to hear that mate - good luck! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam, he was being serious.
Kayla XD
Weirdly enough I actually my Triang class 37 had the same issue with what look liked blimmin thermite. I had sent you an email about it but this answers my question very nicely!
haha really?! I've never known that happen with a tri-ang! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Actually kind of helpful really didn’t expect them to be overloaded so easily
Oddly enough, the exact same thing happened to my 14xx earlier on this afternoon, probably for the same reason. Not totally burnt out though, it still runs but intermittently. I've sent off for a replacement motor and I will check out the old one to see if it's repairable. Nice video. 🙂👍
Blimey sorry to hear that mate - the motors are good and cheap aren't they? Though that's probably the issue ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Yes a very good price. £4 plus just under £2 p&p. I hope that doesn't reflect a sign of the quality. 🤔
Spectacular stuff Sam, could almost smell that 'cooking' from here! Great video, many thanks.
haha thanks Mike, apologies for the smell ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have an old 70's 00 gauge Kays kit in white metal for the Bayer Garret with the rotary coal bunker. What is the best motor for it and where from please ? Also the drive wheels are plastic.
I need some metal replacement ones but where from ?
Yours must be the only model railway channel that needs Smelly Telly to fully appreciate it. Loved it when you said "it's tatered" (not sure how you spell that). Not heard anyone say that since was a kid!
haha not sure you'd want to smell that to be honest! haha yeah - don't know where I pulled that word from, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I'm building a new 'N' Scale train track and on my old track I had run a Fleischmann piccolo 7471. This one also burned down. I took it apart and tested it and burned my fingers. Unfortunately they don 't build them anymore. So I'm down one train. Its to bad.
Sorry to hear about that mate - that does suck :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have the exact same 14xx and the same thing happened to mine. It was fairly new as well.
Ahh sorry to hear that - it's terrible isn't it??
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Uh-oh… I have an original Hornby 58 with this motor. I’ve been running it over here in Canada using US controllers that actually spin up to 18V on full chat, and I’ve just bought it a rake of 12 HAA. I don’t know if I dare run it with a full train now, especially seeing as I’ve got quite an incline to contend with…
As I've just bought a second hand class 58 I found that VERY interesting! Thanks Sam top job.
haha yeah - just don't overload it! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
None of my locos have ever done this, but I do have a 'pocket rocket' style 0-4-0 that sparks like anything on my second hand track, no matter how much track rubbering I do. I am always a bit nervous of using it!
Glad to hear that mate - haha yeah, some older locos can spark, it's generally nothing to worry about!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I've not had a Hornby engine fail but maybe the ones I used to run were quite old! The new small motor in those could suffer from a melted armature carrier by the looks of it, at least it looks cheap to fix.
In a way engine failure is a good sign - that it's actually being used LOL.
Some of the best quality motors I've seen are in double-bogie Roco electric/diesels, one giant motor in the middle to drive all 4 or all 6 axles. BTW why do you run your trains on the floor, would it not be easy to add some staging for the track at eye level?
Ahh yeah - it's rare to get failures on the older models! haha yeah I guess that is true!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Occasionally, the motor on my bachmann n scale u36b will start glowing bright yellow like a light near the motor brushes. She's old and sat unused with a missing brush spring for almost 20 years, it doesn't have too many hours on it.
There is a component of the drive force which pushes the worm away from the drive gear which can deflect the motor axle which also will heat the bearings.
I picked up a set of older diesels on EBay a few months ago and so far, only one of three three has had any life. The two issues are old Triang (I think) Class 37s with the powered truck. Neither want to do any sort of running at all and neither respond what so ever to any sort of current, even after dissasembly, cleaning, and further reassembly. Is there a place I can get working motours for these old things?
Edit:
also, a Bachmann USA model with a failed motour? Whaaaat? I would have neeeeeever expected that!
Hi mate, yes most of the tri-ang armatures can be picked up as spares from Ebay - you may also need to replace/recharge the magnets, since any weakness there can seriously hinder performance or damage the armatures. haha I know right - who could have expected that?! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Nice video Sam, I would never want that to happen to my model railway, hey I have a question, I have a model railway that is only hornby locos it’s supposed to be my British railway layout, but I’m thinking of making a new layout that is only Bachman locos and that is gonna be only locos from America, mainly diesels, but I was just wondering if ur able to put a Bachman loco on a hornby track and be able to run it with a normal controller cause if so then I’m using hornby tracks for mine.
haha me neither really! Yes OO or HO Bachmann locos will work fine on Hornby track! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains ok thanks that’s really good to know cause the Bachman track isn’t really that good but the hornby is way more realistic so imma use that instead:D
I to had a similar issue with the old hornby terrier. Bought it from the bluebell railway and straight from the box it was smoking
Sorry to hear that Barry - at least it wasn't just me!! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
hi sam, has hornby been informed.i keep my jinties to about 7 wagons at moderate speed.my triang one will tow anything.if hornby want to stay around then decent motors.i have not had problems with my wrenn n2 ever
I'd hope they know how poor these motors are - and yes, the tri-angs never had problems like this!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
1:06 I spy a classic which was the one that got me to buy MY Triang 3F and subscribe to your channel ;) Really glad to see that the fail didn't originate from one of those, I know they get a bit of a rep for 'looking' dangerous with the Back-to-the-future arcing on the wheels when running sometimes. Great video, Sam!
haha fantastic - glad you like that, and thanks for subscribing! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have two DCC 0-6-0 locos with type M motors, and they haven't been running very well all of a sudden. One has started smelling bad and running slowly... should I be concerned/do something before the DCC circuitry etc gets fried?
Ahh that could be a sign of a failure - it's probably worth just ordering a replacement motor for them - they're cheap enough on Ebay!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Watch out buying motors off eBay there’s a few fake ones out there ... I know I’ve had the miss fortune of buying one and and after 4 months having not just smoke but flames coming from the motor which melted a hole in the body of the school class ... I sent it off too Hornby with a letter explaining what happened after I sent a email Hornby called me and said thanks for bringing this to our attention and we regret to inform you that the motor was a fake and they have got in touch with trading standards on my behalf
@@SuperDvsmith Eek, rather one than the other! I'll be careful, thanks for letting me know :)
Me: Just casually taking my Class 350 for a spin and sees this video.
Me: Class 43, you're gonna have to become the man of the rails.
haha!! ;D
My Hornby Terrier ( Chinese but 20 odd years old) says on the box "Designed for shunting and not for long running." Are those Hornby motors Sam or can you get cheaper versions?
Yeah they're Hornby ones - though cheaper ones are probably available! Does it really say that on the old Hornby box? That's ludicrous!! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hey sam, as an electrician, any chance to get a brushless motor retrofit? I want to see some of your trains getting quite the upgrade! I can work with you a circuit to power up the controller at low voltage in your analog railway, cheers!
That would be very interesting - but could that work with the loco picking up power with only 2 rails? Would there need to be a lot of circuitry?!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Well, not a lot but sure 2 or 3 pcbs would need to find a home on the retrofitted loco, so it needs a bit roomy inside, since for pure dc analog control it would need a DC-DC Buck converter to power itself, the ESC to control the motor an a smal arduino or an ATiny microcontroler to read the line tension and command the esc to speed up acordingly. So I would personaly choose a loco on his way to the scrapyard wiling and capable of such experiment so we have some room to make it work first then downsize it so it fits more locos.
On this, a DCC would solve a lot since I wouldnt need to use a Buck converter and only hijack the output to the motor of the dcc controler and give it to the micro so it can translate it to the ESC to drive the motor.
@@acynder1 … and of top of the electronics, you need a constant voltage in the tracks (DC or AC) and some method to transmit the speed information into the locomotive.
@@railfilm thats what the buck converter is for, the hard thing would be polarity protection for the smarts
@@acynder1 not only that. But the speed of the BLDC motor depends on the driving frequency, not on the voltage on the motor terminals.
Thankyou for worrying me now as I have a Terrier and a 14xx with the same motor. There used to be companies in the model railway magazines who sold decent quality replacement motors from Japan although I can't remember if there are companies who sell the decent quality ones anymore.
You might be thinking of Mashima. I don't think they make model railway motors anymore. I know of at least one place in the States that has some new old stock Mashima motors on hand. Which reminds me I do need to pick up a couple soon for two brass N scale locos I'm repairing...
That's interesting Ben - I would like to try some better replacements - might do a video on that soon! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I had same trouble motor in both Liliput Br91 and Fleischmann T3 loco.
Ahh sorry to hear that :(
Your videos are brilliant and you should see and smell what happens to a full size diesel- electric loco after a traction motor or the resistor failer it goes Bang in a Big way ! Lol I was in a class 73 electro- diesels engine room when we had this happen once , keep up the good work .
Thanks so much Ian - I bet that must be quite a frightening event - does it happen often?! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains not that often Thank goodness lol
I like your new intro! It must have been a hell of a job animating that!
Thanks a lot mate - it's a template, so I don't have to reanimate it every time! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I know I you feel Sam. I’m from America and I have a dock switcher made from a company called Lionel I got it on Christmas Day I believe it was 2017. I was running it around my Christmas tree, it was only pulling about like 2 cars. But then I realized it was slowing down. I shut it off and it smelled really bad. Turns out that the motor and the reversing unit was burned out. My dad tried to find new parts but he could not find the motor. It hasn’t ran since. 😔
Cheers Matthew - sorry to hear about that - that definitely sucks :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I do this with the Triang Princess Victoria. Every time I attempt to run it, smoke emits; not good for a wooden baseboard!
haha that's not good - maybe try a service?? :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Curious if adding dcc to the hornby locos would help or hurt?
Depends on whether the better motor management would save the motor - I doubt it'd make much difference!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I like to know how many tank steam engines compared to tender engines do you have?
I recently bought a 30 year-old Hornby Black 5 from Ebay. When I was first trying it out, the loco started to smoke quite heavily. However, after a few minutes, and the smoke had disipated, I tried it again, and found that it actually ran BETTER - much more responsive to my controller, and much faster.
Uh oh - was that the old ringfield one? Maybe there was some corrosion on the commutator that took some burning off!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Yes. A Ringfield Type 5. However, I was assured by the seller that the locomotive had had a good service before being placed up for sale. So it may well have been oil being burned off.
Hi sam, i recently got some motors from amazon, they’re made by acompany called utax, they’re small enough to fit inside a locomotive, they run at 24000 RPMs, will they work for my projects? They only came with a plastic mounting bracket, how do i put them in a locomotive? Do i have to do any soddering to make it work?,i’m trying to avoid using a sodering gun because i can’t see, so the risk of being burned is very hi for me, is there a way to make the motors run without using heat?
I tried an old triang 0-4-0 not realising how old it was. it cause the track to spark, and at the moment it started smoking I took it off the track straight away, I never used it again. But I still have it on my shelf next to my fireplace ( rather ironically )
Sorry to hear that mate - they often need a bit of a service to run well, though the sparks are quite normal!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Do the hornby pacers have similar motors?