You might have to be concerned with tongue weight. It's either a fixed amount, or a percentage of the boat weight or something. But if the boat is too far forward, it could put too much weight on the tongue, which can affect handling on the road. It's not uncommon for boats to hang off the back of a trailer quite a bit so there's the correct balance.
Looks like you scored on a nice little boat. I’d either raise the winch or replace the broken eye on the bow so you’re winching more directly in-line . Also extend the bunks on the trailer or maybe slide the winch post ahead a little. Your transom & motor weight isn’t supported correctly unless the bunks are actually under the transom. The bottom will eventually dent & crack if the transom is left unsupported .
I would make the bunks longer to hold more boat. You could go to a boat dealer and check out their 14 ft boat and trailer. Take some measurements and pics. Good luck.
Nice little boat. Regardless of whether the transom is treated wood or not, I'd replace it. New wood properly sealed with epoxy and properly sealed bolt holes. The bow eye needs replacement with a proper aluminum one, but that's not too big of a deal. The holes drilled for the cheapo u-bolt replacement can be welded up at a reputable welding shop for next to nothing. I'd also strip the old paint and repaint it. Done right, Krylon works really well.
I knew steel an treated wood was a bad mix, didn't think it was an issue with aluminum. Doing a quick google search now shows its a problem. I learned something.
Nice job Wayne. I couldn't tell from the video, but the boat should sit fully on the bunks (i.e. the bunks take the weight). The height of the front roller should reflect that. For safety purposes I usually have the winch line go below the winch roller, but since the bow eye was placed so high, I'm not sure you can do that. That said, I don't think you need to worry about any of this as long as you tie down the boat to the trailer in a reasonable way.
Great find Wayne, that Yamaha will be a nice fit for it as well. I just purchased a used outboard myself for my boat so will be selling my 25hp 4 stroke EFI Merc. Keep the videos coming! Boaters in the northeast like myself appreciate it while we wait out the winter months!
The bunk needs raised about inch to 2 inches and front roller may need to be lower to make it a even pull so its not bending the hull ,in the middle . may need a second roller , no more than 3 inch over hang off the bunk , The treated transom will be fine
Best way IMO to see if the trailer and whatever you're putting on it. Get along is to pull it. If you're worried about the rear, overload(ie more weight than you would ever put there) and go for a short drive. But get the tow vehicle up to speed, if it "fishtails" on you, then you need to adjust
The only thing I would change is that the bow eye should be below the roller. If you put a motor on it, you might want to move the tower and the whole boat ahead a bit more.
@Wayne The Boat Guy Busch stadium is full of it all summer long lol Nice boat for real man congrats. Obviously I'm from stl and I can never find nice boats around here for cheap. Either it's a total pos or they think it's made of gold, looking for something like that for my son and I to fish out of in the summers
Just bought my first 14ft last night, it was worth the drive, imperfect like its new owner and challenges to clean up the mess ... With patience, care and guidance all is possible. I need a bow stop assembly, where the heck do I find that? Blessings and aloha
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Wayne Mahalo! (Thank you in Hawaiian) Speedy replys are almost unheard of these days, very appreciated brother 😊have a blessed weekend and hope you get some water time in 🤙 blessings and aloha from Holland Michigan (west coast lower peninsula)
Nice boat Wayne you could have saved $40 by just taking your boat off the trailer and you could have taken that and adjust it where you bought it at. Your front should come down and the front strap should go underneath the black rubber pulley and up to the front bow hook ear ring. Love your video's I always can't wait for your next one ciao for now bro.
Good luck with it. On the trailer, are you able to loosen the bolts on the bunk brackets and raise them so they are in contact w/the bottom of the hull? I sometimes have to adjust mine and I use a floor jack to slowly raise the bunks up to where I want them. You want to be sure too, to have all rollers on the trailer making contact with the hull.
I've got a similar setup and run the bunks longer so the transom weight is directly supported. With the weight of the outboard right there I don't want the thin floor holding it up as it bounces going down the road. I think someone else already mentioned it but the bunks should take the weight and the rollers just help stabilize. If you like the current position you can always make new bunks!
I've been collecting scateboards I plan on flipping them upsidedown or the wheels and trucks and positioning them for the boat to ride on for as much support as I can get. Your trailer looks to have the wheels to far back putting alot of weight on the tounge at times. I'm no knowledgeable pro just saying
Dad had two Lonestars both 14 ft. One was a Commander which was deeper, more freeboard, than the second which was a Bigfisherman which is what I think you got. Dad had a 18 hp on his (50's vintage) so a newer 2stroke 15 will work just fine. By the way Lonestar had flotation in the seats. Find some foam, make it safe. Great find!
These are good questions and I don't have a short answer. I don't flip boats, because that's someone who looks for things that they can profit from. I occasionally get a little more for a boat (or engine) than I paid, but usually it doesn't cover my labor. A collector wouldn't sell any - and I usually try to only have two or three at a time. I can repair a rivet (and have). I have replaced a transom and revived a couple dead engines. I usually just try to "improve" the old and cheap things that I buy and I shop until I find the things that are 'right' for me - but that is turning out to be a journey, because I learn more about what is "right for me" with every purchase.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy yes, but it only corrodes to a certain point. I’ve never had structural issues with my boats because of that. If you think about it, aluminum boats are kept in salt water and that doesn’t hurt them.
Why there are real advantages to buying boats in the off season - th-cam.com/video/9MEnJWHspTs/w-d-xo.html
The transom looks pretty good. You could epoxy it and say done.
You might have to be concerned with tongue weight. It's either a fixed amount, or a percentage of the boat weight or something. But if the boat is too far forward, it could put too much weight on the tongue, which can affect handling on the road. It's not uncommon for boats to hang off the back of a trailer quite a bit so there's the correct balance.
Looks like you scored on a nice little boat.
I’d either raise the winch or replace the broken eye on the bow so you’re winching more directly
in-line .
Also extend the bunks on the trailer or maybe slide the winch post ahead a little. Your transom & motor weight isn’t supported correctly unless the bunks are actually under the transom.
The bottom will eventually dent & crack if the transom is left unsupported .
Great points - thank you!!
I would make the bunks longer to hold more boat. You could go to a boat dealer and check out their 14 ft boat and trailer. Take some measurements and pics. Good luck.
Nice tip!
I run a 25hp on my 1960 King Commander. No issues but I try to keep my gear up front in the storage area for weight distribution.
Nice little boat. Regardless of whether the transom is treated wood or not, I'd replace it.
New wood properly sealed with epoxy and properly sealed bolt holes.
The bow eye needs replacement with a proper aluminum one, but that's not too big of a deal. The holes drilled for the cheapo u-bolt replacement can be welded up at a reputable welding shop for next to nothing.
I'd also strip the old paint and repaint it. Done right, Krylon works really well.
Yeah - Doing those things would really fix this up!
Everything seems fine and reasonably well balanced - ensure you strip down firmly. And spend some time on the hitch
Thanks for the video, greetings from Detroit
I knew steel an treated wood was a bad mix, didn't think it was an issue with aluminum. Doing a quick google search now shows its a problem. I learned something.
Nice job Wayne. I couldn't tell from the video, but the boat should sit fully on the bunks (i.e. the bunks take the weight). The height of the front roller should reflect that. For safety purposes I usually have the winch line go below the winch roller, but since the bow eye was placed so high, I'm not sure you can do that. That said, I don't think you need to worry about any of this as long as you tie down the boat to the trailer in a reasonable way.
Thanks for the tip!
Nice rig run it everything looks good
Great find Wayne, that Yamaha will be a nice fit for it as well. I just purchased a used outboard myself for my boat so will be selling my 25hp 4 stroke EFI Merc. Keep the videos coming! Boaters in the northeast like myself appreciate it while we wait out the winter months!
Great comments on this. Just make sure you have some tongue weight for when you tow, otherwise it’s fishtail all the way to the ramp l
The bunk needs raised about inch to 2 inches and front roller may need to be lower to make it a even pull so its not bending the hull ,in the middle . may need a second roller , no more than 3 inch over hang off the bunk , The treated transom will be fine
Best way IMO to see if the trailer and whatever you're putting on it. Get along is to pull it. If you're worried about the rear, overload(ie more weight than you would ever put there) and go for a short drive. But get the tow vehicle up to speed, if it "fishtails" on you, then you need to adjust
That’s a cool way to transport a utility boat. At least inflation didn’t jack up uhaul rates.
Yeah it worked out well!
The only thing I would change is that the bow eye should be below the roller.
If you put a motor on it, you might want to move the tower and the whole boat ahead a bit more.
Great points! Thank you!
Nice ! Looks like a great boat !
Thanks 👍
Holes could have been for bracing, but looks like it could have been where oar locks would have been.
Nice new boat mate.
Thanks!
Hey go to Harbor freight and buy a truck bed extender for about $60
Nice to see you reppin the midwest, though the brewers hat hurts as a cardinals fan
I need to get one of those - my favorite hat color is red!
@Wayne The Boat Guy Busch stadium is full of it all summer long lol
Nice boat for real man congrats. Obviously I'm from stl and I can never find nice boats around here for cheap. Either it's a total pos or they think it's made of gold, looking for something like that for my son and I to fish out of in the summers
Shes beautiful 😍😍 I'd fish the 💩💩💩 out of it as is!! Camo paint job later along with a removable small casting deck. All I would do! Keep it simple
bunks should stick out past transom so they don’t stress the seams or deform the bottom of the boat?
been looking for a 14ft for a few months in northern Iowa...
Just bought my first 14ft last night, it was worth the drive, imperfect like its new owner and challenges to clean up the mess ... With patience, care and guidance all is possible.
I need a bow stop assembly, where the heck do I find that?
Blessings and aloha
Congrats! There's an online company "etrailer" that should have what you need!
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Wayne Mahalo! (Thank you in Hawaiian) Speedy replys are almost unheard of these days, very appreciated brother 😊have a blessed weekend and hope you get some water time in 🤙 blessings and aloha from Holland Michigan (west coast lower peninsula)
Do you think the holes near the mud seat could be for oar locks perhaps?
I hadn't thought of that!
trailer hitch extension
Nice boat Wayne you could have saved $40 by just taking your boat off the trailer and you could have taken that and adjust it where you bought it at. Your front should come down and the front strap should go underneath the black rubber pulley and up to the front bow hook ear ring. Love your video's I always can't wait for your next one ciao for now bro.
My little trailer actually has a few issues that made it unsuitable for this journey - but that's for another video!
Good luck with it. On the trailer, are you able to loosen the bolts on the bunk brackets and raise them so they are in contact w/the bottom of the hull? I sometimes have to adjust mine and I use a floor jack to slowly raise the bunks up to where I want them. You want to be sure too, to have all rollers on the trailer making contact with the hull.
Yeah there's a lot of adjustment options and my rollers need replacing!
@@WayneTheBoatGuy sound like the next video opportunity.
❤i love you Fishster legend ✅🦈
Wash, paint and fish. Life's Good.
Didn't placing the bow 2 feet forward mean backing up further into the water at the boat launch in order to float the boat?
It's a 2 ft longer boat - so we shall see!
I've got a similar setup and run the bunks longer so the transom weight is directly supported. With the weight of the outboard right there I don't want the thin floor holding it up as it bounces going down the road. I think someone else already mentioned it but the bunks should take the weight and the rollers just help stabilize. If you like the current position you can always make new bunks!
Great points - thanks!
Not insulation . Floatation
Good catch!
I've been collecting scateboards I plan on flipping them upsidedown or the wheels and trucks and positioning them for the boat to ride on for as much support as I can get. Your trailer looks to have the wheels to far back putting alot of weight on the tounge at times. I'm no knowledgeable pro just saying
Any trailer when hauled should have about 75 lbs on the ball.
This trailer was pretty heavy empty.
Dad had two Lonestars both 14 ft. One was a Commander which was deeper, more freeboard, than the second which was a Bigfisherman which is what I think you got. Dad had a 18 hp on his (50's vintage) so a newer 2stroke 15 will work just fine. By the way Lonestar had flotation in the seats. Find some foam, make it safe. Great find!
So Wayne, do you flip boats or just collect boats. Can you repair a rivet if there is a need. This.
These are good questions and I don't have a short answer.
I don't flip boats, because that's someone who looks for things that they can profit from. I occasionally get a little more for a boat (or engine) than I paid, but usually it doesn't cover my labor. A collector wouldn't sell any - and I usually try to only have two or three at a time. I can repair a rivet (and have). I have replaced a transom and revived a couple dead engines. I usually just try to "improve" the old and cheap things that I buy and I shop until I find the things that are 'right' for me - but that is turning out to be a journey, because I learn more about what is "right for me" with every purchase.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy many thanks for your reply. Love your channel and your humour. 👍
Corrosion won’t be a problem if that’s aluminum.
Aluminum can still corrode. My 12 foot aluminum boat has some corrosion all over.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy yes, but it only corrodes to a certain point. I’ve never had structural issues with my boats because of that. If you think about it, aluminum boats are kept in salt water and that doesn’t hurt them.
How much was it Wayne??
It was under $500!
So..... my question for you sir is...... how are you going to move your 12 ft boat around without a trailer
The trailer still works for both boats!
Are you going to put the 20hp Suzuki motor on it ?
If I can get it running!
10 horsepower, you say?
will it fit 😂