Today, my sister and I replaced her '04 CR-V struts with AutoZone Duralast fully-loaded struts. Your video help and re-watched it several times this week and a few times today. It was tough getting the knuckle bolts off on the driver's side; lots of liquid wrench and a small air wrench over and over and over. Finally came off. Wasn't prepared for that. Did a free AutoZone rental of a tie-rod end remover which was great. However, was really worried about after getting the knuckle and lower strut separated that the drive shaft might pull out. Lots of bungie cords - per your video - but still was worried. Plus on the passenger side, the strut and knuckle were like an inch apart where the strut was too high and couldn't compress the new strut. Took crazy action and use a hydraulic jack to gently force the wishbone arm to which the rotor is attached so it would move down the inch and after a few hours, finally got it in. (Weird, driver's side went right in) One hint from the video about leaving the upper mounting strut nuts loose really helped. All in all, it took eleven hours as we never did this kind of work before. But saved over $400 vs. having a repair business to it. Andy my sister did lots of the work using air wrench, jacking up the car and placing jack stands (under my direction), and lots more. Really proud of her.
Hey guys I changed my radiator in my 1995 honda civic!!!!!!! I did it in 30 minutes thats your video help out sooooooooooo much . you guys rock. I saved 80 buck doing it myself! THANK YOU
***YOU NEED TO JACK UP THE OTHER SIDE AS WELL WHEN YOU DO THIS!! I just spend 3 hours trying to force the strut in, or compress the suspension, and started to wonder if the strut wasn't compressed. Then I jacked up both front tires and the strut fit in perfectly! Somehow the suspension compresses this side if both tires are not jacked up!!!!
Bob Miller, my post up above mentioned the same problem happened to me a couple of days ago and I didn't jack up both sides of the car. After a lot of trying, I used a hydraulic jack to gently force down the control arm which the rotor is attached to so it would move down the inch, it went in. However, last night I was thinking about this and believe I figured out why you need to do as you said about jacking up both sides of the car. When you jack up a vehicle, the tire naturally drops as the weight of it stretches against the spring. If you leave one side on the ground, the wheel not only doesn't drop, but probably rises a bit with the additional weight of the car shifted over toward it's side. And the stabilizer/sway bar is higher in relation to the bottom of the vehicle. This results in the sway bar, which stretches through the vehicle to the side you're working on to be higher and you can't get the shock on. Jacking up both sides causes the wheel to drop and pull down the sway bar - doing it on the side you're working on - and you can easily get the strut installed. Take care.
The reason for an alignment is the new springs that come with the complete loaded strut. The coil springs actually set the ride height and as the old ones wear out, the alignment needs to be adjusted to compensate. Once the vehicle has new coil springs installed, it is kind of the opposite, the alignment needs to be adjusted back. If you replace the strut cartridge, you don't necessarily have to do an alignment, however it is still a good idea.
All alignment angles start with the vehicle at the proper ride height and then the caster, camber, and toe angles can be adjusted properly. Also it is actually a good idea to wait a week or 2 after installing the struts and before aligning it. The brand new coil springs usually sit higher then normal until they break in a little.
@abcde161974 If you are just doing the strut, it is not required to replace the springs as long as they are in good condition. The main reason for the spring/strut assembly is for ease of installation as it includes the struts, springs, strut plates, bushings etc.. already assembled, no spring compressor is necessary. Thanks!
It's been a long time, so I don't remember exactly, but I want to say it took about an hour and a half total for the job. And yes an alignment is necessary on this vehicle after replacing the struts.
Struts can certainly make a rattle/clatter noise, particularly over small bumps. There are other parts of the suspension than can do this also though, such as the sway-bar links.
Great video....also mention...any car older than 10 years old will probably also need tie rods replaced,..due to rust and "non-adjustability" issues too.
Just replaced mine after watching this video. I used an FCS brand. Also for those that are wondering what it sounds like if they are bad. Creaking... Not clunking. If it sounds like a plasticky, metal, creaking sound it's the strut.
This was a lot more difficult on mine. The springs were way stronger and I had a hard time keeping the drive shaft in while I took bolts out. Mine is a 4 wheel drive model, that may have made a difference.
I figured out what I was doing wrong. If you dont jack up both sides and try to do just one side, the torsion bar causes the lower control arm to bind and makes the strut difficult to remove.
Discovered you need to jack up both sides of the car. If you don't the stabilizer/sway bar will be too high for you to insert the knuckle into the strut bottom on the first side your repairing. With both sides jacked up, the weight of the tire still on the car pushes the stabilizer/sway bar down to a lower point and on the side you're working on, makes it easy to insert the knuckle into the strut.
Awesome guide. I had to reuse springs and hats, note you should loosen the nut on the top before you take it out. Took me about an hour to do both sides. And yeah needs a wheel alignment..
He left one thing out. If you have a sway bar, you will have to loosen the sway bar mounts or the two big strut mounting bolts won't line up. The sway bar mounts are under the car and they can be loosened very easily. There are two mounts, one on each side of the underside of the car. Loosen two bolts on each side just enough to allow the sway bar to fall away from the body about 1/2 inch. No need to take the bolts all the way out. Just tighten them when you are done.
There are 3 common symptoms that show a strut being bad. 1) It could lose it's ability to absorb shock, the vehicle will bounce multiple times over bumps. 2) The strut can get stuck, every bump in the road will send excessive jolts through the vehicle. or 3) It can make noise
I have a rattling noise coming from the passenger side front. Everything looks ok and the compliance bushings were replaced. I've heard the struts can rattle.
So technically anytime a torques spec is stated in a repair manual, it should be followed. Unfortunately I don't really remember on this specific video and sometimes with editing we remove stuff. Technicians that do this daily also have a great feel for most of fasteners and can get away without an exact torque, however that doesn't mean the torque spec shouldn't be followed.
Yeah that should be fine, the alignment shouldn't be dangerously out of spec after replacing the struts, but it will likely be out enough to quickly wear down your tires a lot faster than they should.
Came across your channel. Question? I have 05 crv the strut plate or mate rubber is broken. Would i need to use a coil spring compresser? Thank in advance
Hi, unfortunately I do not have that information, we don't have the honda HRV here in the states, so unfortunately I cannot look up any parts or compatibility information for it.
Yeah checked the sway bar links...there is not movement in them so I don't think it's them. Actually wish it was, much cheaper than replacing the struts.
Put a chisel mark across the upper (camber) bolt and the steering to knuckle to put the alignment right back where it was. Use a pry bar to pry up on the tie rod end while smacking its seating taper, it will pop put a lot quicker. Pickle forks destroy boots.
I installed my struts exactly as you did, but the bolt holes on the bottom don't match up. its as if i need to compress the strut to get be able to apply the bolts. is this typical?
With the lower control arm hanging freely, it should be plenty low to line up the bolts, make sure nothing is obstructing the lower control arm from hanging freely on it's own. You can even pry down on it to give yourself more room if need be, you shouldn't have to compress the strut.
how can you tell they're bad, what was the noise of damaged strut when driving the car, it would be very helpful to hear the noise before, and after....repair
It is always a good idea to get a wheel alignment done when any suspension part is replaced. If you replace just the struts only and keep the old coil springs, you could skip out on the alignment, however if it is out of alignment with brand new struts, you will still get tirewear and possibly a ride problem.
I'm needing to replace my struts on my 03. My CRV is made in England. Notice some struts want work they say excludes England made CRV. Do you guys carry the kind I need? Also wants the difference?
Title should say "Quick Strut" replacement. Many mechanics are now finding out that quick struts are made with inferior parts, to keep the cost down. I am replacing my one year old quick struts because the inferior springs are sacked out at 15k miles. Better to reuse the OEM Honda springs on new struts. The Honda springs are better. I just wasted time watching the first 5 minutes only to find out this is just a swap out not a real strut replacement where the unit is disassembled and each part evaluated and replaced with quality parts.
The rear suspension is nearly the same, the biggest difference is getting to the top bolts which hold the upper strut plate in place. Usually there is an access panel you can easily remove to get to it.
Yeah it sometimes takes one nice solid hit and sometimes many more, also it has to be hit on the outside of the joint. You can get a tool called a pickle fork which can help.
Old Uncle Silas Another trick you can do for the tie rod end is by screwing the castle nut back on until it's flush with the thread, then give the bottom a whack with a hammer or rubber mallet. One or two hits should do it, should pop right out ;).
Today, my sister and I replaced her '04 CR-V struts with AutoZone Duralast fully-loaded struts. Your video help and re-watched it several times this week and a few times today. It was tough getting the knuckle bolts off on the driver's side; lots of liquid wrench and a small air wrench over and over and over. Finally came off. Wasn't prepared for that. Did a free AutoZone rental of a tie-rod end remover which was great. However, was really worried about after getting the knuckle and lower strut separated that the drive shaft might pull out. Lots of bungie cords - per your video - but still was worried. Plus on the passenger side, the strut and knuckle were like an inch apart where the strut was too high and couldn't compress the new strut. Took crazy action and use a hydraulic jack to gently force the wishbone arm to which the rotor is attached so it would move down the inch and after a few hours, finally got it in. (Weird, driver's side went right in) One hint from the video about leaving the upper mounting strut nuts loose really helped. All in all, it took eleven hours as we never did this kind of work before. But saved over $400 vs. having a repair business to it. Andy my sister did lots of the work using air wrench, jacking up the car and placing jack stands (under my direction), and lots more. Really proud of her.
Hey guys I changed my radiator in my 1995 honda civic!!!!!!! I did it in 30 minutes thats your video help out sooooooooooo much . you guys rock. I saved 80 buck doing it myself! THANK YOU
***YOU NEED TO JACK UP THE OTHER SIDE AS WELL WHEN YOU DO THIS!! I just spend 3 hours trying to force the strut in, or compress the suspension, and started to wonder if the strut wasn't compressed. Then I jacked up both front tires and the strut fit in perfectly! Somehow the suspension compresses this side if both tires are not jacked up!!!!
Bob Miller, my post up above mentioned the same problem happened to me a couple of days ago and I didn't jack up both sides of the car. After a lot of trying, I used a hydraulic jack to gently force down the control arm which the rotor is attached to so it would move down the inch, it went in. However, last night I was thinking about this and believe I figured out why you need to do as you said about jacking up both sides of the car. When you jack up a vehicle, the tire naturally drops as the weight of it stretches against the spring. If you leave one side on the ground, the wheel not only doesn't drop, but probably rises a bit with the additional weight of the car shifted over toward it's side. And the stabilizer/sway bar is higher in relation to the bottom of the vehicle. This results in the sway bar, which stretches through the vehicle to the side you're working on to be higher and you can't get the shock on. Jacking up both sides causes the wheel to drop and pull down the sway bar - doing it on the side you're working on - and you can easily get the strut installed. Take care.
Yah because of your sway bar
God bless you, thank you for posting this
The reason for an alignment is the new springs that come with the complete loaded strut. The coil springs actually set the ride height and as the old ones wear out, the alignment needs to be adjusted to compensate. Once the vehicle has new coil springs installed, it is kind of the opposite, the alignment needs to be adjusted back. If you replace the strut cartridge, you don't necessarily have to do an alignment, however it is still a good idea.
All alignment angles start with the vehicle at the proper ride height and then the caster, camber, and toe angles can be adjusted properly. Also it is actually a good idea to wait a week or 2 after installing the struts and before aligning it. The brand new coil springs usually sit higher then normal until they break in a little.
Thanks for the straightforward, no bullshit, video. Gonna be very helpful when I give this a shot.
this was an amazing video, thank you so much for putting this together and being so methodical.
@abcde161974 If you are just doing the strut, it is not required to replace the springs as long as they are in good condition. The main reason for the spring/strut assembly is for ease of installation as it includes the struts, springs, strut plates, bushings etc.. already assembled, no spring compressor is necessary. Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to post this. You save me so much time and money.
It's been a long time, so I don't remember exactly, but I want to say it took about an hour and a half total for the job. And yes an alignment is necessary on this vehicle after replacing the struts.
Struts can certainly make a rattle/clatter noise, particularly over small bumps. There are other parts of the suspension than can do this also though, such as the sway-bar links.
thanks for posting this video -- saved me about 500 bucks install charge.
Thank you sharing 🙂!
I just replaced my Honda CR-V 2002 front struts with 215,690 miles on it 😀😀😀!!!
Doing mine today at 197k
Great video....also mention...any car older than 10 years old will probably also need tie rods replaced,..due to rust and "non-adjustability" issues too.
One of the best auto videos out there. What brand of struts are those?
+4thcavalier
Thanks for the video props! The Struts are APDTY Brand
So this struts come complete with the strut mount and everything for direct swap? How much did you pay for it
Just replaced mine after watching this video. I used an FCS brand. Also for those that are wondering what it sounds like if they are bad. Creaking... Not clunking. If it sounds like a plasticky, metal, creaking sound it's the strut.
How is the fcs brand on the crv?
This was a lot more difficult on mine. The springs were way stronger and I had a hard time keeping the drive shaft in while I took bolts out. Mine is a 4 wheel drive model, that may have made a difference.
I figured out what I was doing wrong. If you dont jack up both sides and try to do just one side, the torsion bar causes the lower control arm to bind and makes the strut difficult to remove.
Discovered you need to jack up both sides of the car. If you don't the stabilizer/sway bar will be too high for you to insert the knuckle into the strut bottom on the first side your repairing. With both sides jacked up, the weight of the tire still on the car pushes the stabilizer/sway bar down to a lower point and on the side you're working on, makes it easy to insert the knuckle into the strut.
ninemilliondollars didn’t have to on my 03 crv.
Excellent. Good job. Greetings from San Diego. Thanks.
"Give a few quick hits right here where the tie rod connects"...hits it 80 times, LOL. Thanks for the vid! Going to attempt this soon!
Awesome guide. I had to reuse springs and hats, note you should loosen the nut on the top before you take it out.
Took me about an hour to do both sides.
And yeah needs a wheel alignment..
He left one thing out. If you have a sway bar, you will have to loosen the sway bar mounts or the two big strut mounting bolts won't line up. The sway bar mounts are under the car and they can be loosened very easily. There are two mounts, one on each side of the underside of the car. Loosen two bolts on each side just enough to allow the sway bar to fall away from the body about 1/2 inch. No need to take the bolts all the way out. Just tighten them when you are done.
This could have been the most perfect front strut installation video except for one major detail. Bolt sizes
What a badass video saves me $800 bucks whoop whoop
Thanks for the video, nice explained
There are 3 common symptoms that show a strut being bad. 1) It could lose it's ability to absorb shock, the vehicle will bounce multiple times over bumps. 2) The strut can get stuck, every bump in the road will send excessive jolts through the vehicle. or 3) It can make noise
I have a rattling noise coming from the passenger side front. Everything looks ok and the compliance bushings were replaced. I've heard the struts can rattle.
Noooooo....I was hoping it would show the orientation for the upper strut mounts. I replaced my struts with KYB and kept OEM springs.
Very organized and clear. Thanks!
Do any of these bolts need a specific torque? I saw you used a regular socket for some of them and the automatic torque gun for others.
So technically anytime a torques spec is stated in a repair manual, it should be followed. Unfortunately I don't really remember on this specific video and sometimes with editing we remove stuff. Technicians that do this daily also have a great feel for most of fasteners and can get away without an exact torque, however that doesn't mean the torque spec shouldn't be followed.
Yeah that should be fine, the alignment shouldn't be dangerously out of spec after replacing the struts, but it will likely be out enough to quickly wear down your tires a lot faster than they should.
Will bad stabilizer links make the same sound as bad shock, Honda tells
to replace both front stabilizer links and front right shock.
After replacing the struts, can I drive the car to the mechanic (about 2 miles) to do the alignment?
Yes. Two miles is no worries.
Awesome video easy and well detailed. Thanks
how can you say for sure it is strut rather than stabilizer bar link or sway bar that is making clunking noise
Came across your channel. Question? I have 05 crv the strut plate or mate rubber is broken. Would i need to use a coil spring compresser?
Thank in advance
Hi, unfortunately I do not have that information, we don't have the honda HRV here in the states, so unfortunately I cannot look up any parts or compatibility information for it.
how long did it take to replace both? and do you have to align the wheels after?
Man, that looked so easy.
Yeah checked the sway bar links...there is not movement in them so I don't think it's them. Actually wish it was, much cheaper than replacing the struts.
Ditto one question here....how do you know if a strut is bad?
I replace the lower control arms and all the tie rods and did a alignment and new struts let's do mix noises over bumps
top shelf instruction !
excellent tutorial. thanks.
Put a chisel mark across the upper (camber) bolt and the steering to knuckle to put the alignment right back where it was. Use a pry bar to pry up on the tie rod end while smacking its seating taper, it will pop put a lot quicker. Pickle forks destroy boots.
Thanks a lot for such a good video
What happens if my bushing spins as I tried to put the bolt in to the thread
Great video!
Check out our website! You can click the link in the description to get there.
I dont have to replace the whole strut if I have the spring compressor? It is only the shock itself that gets worn?
Correct, with the spring compressor tool you're able to hold the spring compressed to replace the strut
Just a few quick hits...100 hits later..lmao
& 2 taps on the OTR bolt lol
Thanks man.
Where's a good place to order a strut assembly?
I installed my struts exactly as you did, but the bolt holes on the bottom don't match up. its as if i need to compress the strut to get be able to apply the bolts. is this typical?
With the lower control arm hanging freely, it should be plenty low to line up the bolts, make sure nothing is obstructing the lower control arm from hanging freely on it's own. You can even pry down on it to give yourself more room if need be, you shouldn't have to compress the strut.
Make sure you raised both sides of the car
hi... can you please share the torque spec for those bolts? thanks so much if you can
how can you tell they're bad, what was the noise of damaged strut when driving the car, it would be very helpful to hear the noise before, and after....repair
Do I need to the the wheel alignment if I replace the rear struts only??
It is always a good idea to get a wheel alignment done when any suspension part is replaced. If you replace just the struts only and keep the old coil springs, you could skip out on the alignment, however if it is out of alignment with brand new struts, you will still get tirewear and possibly a ride problem.
Yea How much for the whole Assembly for an 08 crv?
I'm needing to replace my struts on my 03. My CRV is made in England. Notice some struts want work they say excludes England made CRV. Do you guys carry the kind I need? Also wants the difference?
I'm about to find out the same thing. Parts on order
Very Nice Job... Thanks
how much for the whole assembly? thanks.
Great vid!
That was awesome. Thank you.
What if the cv joint dislocates
well done
Title should say "Quick Strut" replacement. Many mechanics are now finding out that quick struts are made with inferior parts, to keep the cost down. I am replacing my one year old quick struts because the inferior springs are sacked out at 15k miles. Better to reuse the OEM Honda springs on new struts. The Honda springs are better. I just wasted time watching the first 5 minutes only to find out this is just a swap out not a real strut replacement where the unit is disassembled and each part evaluated and replaced with quality parts.
Larry O'Hanlon you can buy Monroe assembly replacements. Buy brand name and should t have to worry.
Good but I would dearly love it if wrench sizes used were given.
Were can I find tire rims for 2011 Honda cr-v?
how different for the rear suspension??
The rear suspension is nearly the same, the biggest difference is getting to the top bolts which hold the upper strut plate in place. Usually there is an access panel you can easily remove to get to it.
I've been trying to disconnect my tie rod from the strut on my honda civic. Man I've been hammering on that damn thing for so long now..
Yeah it sometimes takes one nice solid hit and sometimes many more, also it has to be hit on the outside of the joint. You can get a tool called a pickle fork which can help.
Old Uncle Silas Another trick you can do for the tie rod end is by screwing the castle nut back on until it's flush with the thread, then give the bottom a whack with a hammer or rubber mallet. One or two hits should do it, should pop right out ;).
***** Not good practice, maybe a few big whacks of the strut then a light tap of the tie rod....
Thanks
A list of wrench sizes would be most helpful.
thank you......
nice
@adargen I just align my 98 ford ranger for 70 dollars. inflation
Why doesn’t anyone say what size the fucking nuts are?
Ur cute!
Gteat
Thanks