Thanks! This was a huge help in my MKS GEN L Conversion. I had some issues with the steppers making clunking noises, but I must not have set vRef correctly - because when I went back to double check them, the motor that was having issues was set way too high. Once I adjusted that, they work great! It is amazing how quiet it is!
Your two tutorials are truly great, thr best I looked up so far! I would only criticise one thing in your first video: anyone that modifies his 3D printer knows that you open a folder by doubleclicking it- what I mean is that you don't need to explain every single click, even for beginners like me
Thanks for this great in-depth video. I was thinking of upgrading to an SKR V1.1 board with TMC2208. I just ordered a board with 5 TMC2208 for really cheap and want to try it out.
Heya @Matt Mannino. Cool! I have the same board but need to fix the SD Card slot as it doesn't hold the SD Card in. I haven't tried it yet. It is for a Kossel which I have been dreaming of building. Just collecting parts for now. What do you plan to run on it? Smoothieware?
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 I was planning on running Marlin on it for now. I was planning on getting the MKS GEN L and 2208s but found this board which is 32 bit and comes with 5 2208s for $40: www.biqu.equipment/collections/control-board-kits/products/bigtreetech-skr-v1-1-motherboard-32-bit-smoothieboard-arm-cpu-control-board-open-source-for-tft3-5-printer-pannel?variant=18528277889122
Hello @Matt Mannino. Ah I see. But Marlin 2.0 is still in development and is primarily used by developers for development/testing/verification. It is in alpha stage and there's a large RED caption which reads "Proceed with Caution" at the Download site. So you are wanting to experiment with Marlin 2.0 I believe?
Hi @Chico Cerven! Yes BLTouch is in the pipeline. Currently I'm busy with setting-up my new PC as my old laptop was having a hard-time coping-up with the video rendering. Also, needed to configure my workshop in order to use space more efficiently. As for a touchscreen, I'll consider the request as it has been made a few times. The touchscreen is quite expensive more my liking.
Heya @lance Meck. Connect the servo three wire connector to the row with pins, D11:5V:GND, in the SERVOS1 header. Refer to schematic(scroll down) for pinout, www.biqu.equipment/products/mks-gen-l-v1-0-integrated-controller-pcb-board-compatible-ramps-1-6-support-a4988-drv8825-tmc2208-tmc2130-for-3d-printer .This represent SERVO0 which is the default when BLTouch is enabled. Then plug-out the Z-min endstop connector and replace it with the BLTouch's 2-wire connector. For my case, 3-pin connector from BLTouch connects as following D11 - Orange[Signal] 5V - RED[Power] GND - Brown[Ground] & the 2-pin connector connects to Z-, G - Black S - White Hoping this helps.
Fantastic videos! I succesfully upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to MKS GEN L + TMC2208 with your help and videos - thank you! Question: Michael at TeachingTech's video uses X,Y,Z vRef values of 0.76, and his sense resistor is also 110. Is it better to err on the lower or higher vRef side? I have used your values of .725 (x,y,z) but now I am second-guessing which value is correct / best to use. Are there any other hardware differences I should be aware of to check on mine, to ensure I'm using the correct calculated values for my specific h/w? THANK YOU!
Ah, I see in Michael's first video, he uses max current values of 0.84A (for the X,Y,Z motors) & 1.0A (E): th-cam.com/video/H41hIXdB6js/w-d-xo.html. Whereas you are using (@9:38) 0.725A & 0.9A respectively. I'm still not sure which calc / values are correct though.
Heya @Glen Schulz. Sorry for the late reply. I'm using the max current values obtained by measuring the original drivers on the stock Ender 3 board. Also, there's a page which I shared where you can find the Ender 3 stock max current values. I'm using these values as a reference as Creality has not shared any other technical specifications explaining why they chose those values. The specs on the motor are pretty much unknown as is the mechanical loading of the axes & extruder etc. That said, the TMC2208 drives are much more efficient overall than the A4988 and I have set these values lower and still the printer printed without any problems. The rule of thumb is to start high and trim down to a smaller value depending on how fast you print. I generally print at velocity@60; acceleration@1000; jerk@10 and those max current values give me no problems whatsoever at these requirements. My calculations are sound as I've gone thru them may many times. The real question is exactly which max current value is optimum for the printer axes & extruder but as of now I've not been able to find a way to calculate that. Since simulation is not possible as there are too many unknowns this leaves us with experimentation. So we come back to trial & error to find the best values for the individual printers. I've gone down all the way to 0.6v & 0.8v respectively and still found no printing issues for my printing demands. Anyway, lower values are better as it dictates power efficiency. Hoping this helps.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 thank you so much for the detailed reply, Jugnu. I've used your values and have not had any problems so far - so thank you again!!
Hey Jugnu, these are excellent videos, exactly what I needed! Just have one thing I want to check with you though; I recieved TMC2208 version 1.2 even though the listing picture showed 1.0, ugh... Do you know if they will work properly? There are 3 pins where the 3 "NC" pins are on your 1.0 called "CLK", "PDN", and "UART". As long as I set them up in Marlin the same way you show in your video they should work right? If you aren't sure, no worries, just thought I'd ask before doing some digging around the net. :) Thanks for such a great tutorial, really appreciate it!
Hi @The Crab. I'm not sure whether the v1.2 TMC2208 driver will work in legacy mode out-of-the-box. The Fystec wiki, wiki.fysetc.com/TMC2208/, specifically mentions the v1.2 are already in UART mode for use with their F6 board which is described at wiki.fysetc.com/F6_V1.3/. It maybe as simple as reversing whatever is needed to get v1.0 driver in UART mode. They have a forum which may help you out as well. Check-out the comments at the bottom of each page linked above. Sorry wish I could be more help buddy.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 No problem man, thanks for the links! Did a bit of digging but couldn't find any info yet, so I'm just waiting for them to approve approve my registration on the forums and I'll ask them about it. When they get back to me I'll send you a link to it in case anyone else asks you. Thanks again!
So I ended up spending the last 5 hours doing some research and managed to figure this out (and the printer's happily working silently right now!! :D ). Anyone else that want's to use the v1.2 rather than wait another month for delivery, read on. Depending where you order the 2208's from you may or may not have to do some soldering. I ordered mine from Banggood and they have already done all of the soldering required to use this version in standalone mode. To find out if you will need to do it, follow these steps: 1) Find the 3 pins named "CLK" "PDN", & "UART" and then flip the board over to the chip side. 2) There will be 3 small jumper pads meant for switching between UART and Standalone mode. Find the three pads closest to those 3 pins. 3A) If any of those 3 pads have solder bridging them, you will need to remove the solder. -or- 3B) In my case there was some solder on 2 of the pads, but it was not creating a bridge between them. If you find the same on yours (or no solder at all) you do not need to do anything further, simply follow Jugnu's awesome guide and you're done! My best guess is the supplier ran out of ver 1.0 boards and bought ver 1.2's instead which should have a small metal link soldered between those 2 pads and just removed it to turn them back into 1.0 compatible boards. It may not be the same if you buy from Amazon, or get non-Fystec branded boards, so make sure to check them carefully before installing to prevent any chance of damage (not likely but I wouldn't risk it, they aren't cheap). Thanks Jugnu! My upgrade adding MKS Gen L + 2208's + MKS TFT 2.8" Touch Screen is finally complete!!! :D
Hey there @Hunt Moorhouse. It measure to 1.5mm outer diameter of the metal tube of the ferrule. I bought a pack of various inter-mixed diameters so I'm not exactly sure. Hope this helps.
im confused about one thing sir, i have the a4988 drivers does all of the part one and part two applies for it or are your tutorials only for the tmc drivers? thankyou very much for your response
Hi @Aqib Akbar. This tutorial is specific to the TMC2208 correct. But if you want to use the A4988 drivers then just select the driver "A4988" instead of "TMC2208" when configuring drivers during the firmware configuration bit. For hardware configuration, you need no other changes. The changes shown in the second part will work for the A4988 as well. Make sure you select the correct step size which is 1/16th by configuring the jumpers as shown in that part. Hope this helps.
Hey @3lemental Studios. The values that you are referring to I'm assuming you mean current limit volatge. Then, it comes down to the specs of the motor. If the specs are the same as the original than the current limit voltage would need to be the same. The values shown are NOT optimal as the motor specs and the mechanical loads are somewhat unknown/unspecified for the Ender 3. The calculation is equivalent values based on my measurements for my machine and references from other sources. Hoping this is what you are asking. Hope it helps.
Hi @Andrea Flego. If you mean remove the jumper from MS3 then you are right technically NO jumper on pins MS3. You ONLY need jumpers on pins MS1 & MS2 for 1/16th step-size selection. Hope it helps.
Hi @Everton Soares. Download this branch as a zip file or something - gitlab.com/jugnu-jethi/myender3firmware/tree/Ender3-MKSGenL-TMC2208_Legacy . This has all the changes you are requesting. Hope it helps.
This was a very well put together tutorial, but a couple minutes after I finished tuning the drivers the motherboard and/or the drivers lit on fire. My biggest regret is that I didn't have any marshmallows handy.
Hi @Silas Foley. Seriously? I'm really sorry to hear that. But your board caught fire? Perhaps you may have had a faulty board. The TMC2208 drivers have short-circuit and over-temperature protection which would have prevented anything bad from happening to them. Possibly the MOSFETs for the extruder or bed heater given a short-circuit condition in either heating elements. Polarity reversal could also cause such an incident. Again, I'm sorry to hear of your predicament. Please exercise extreme caution when handling electronics. Things I've learned from my experience if they apply. Always have your hand on the power-off button. If anything smells funny quickly hit the power-off button. Double/Triple check everything. When tired even if a bit, hold-off everything and continue after resting.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 Okay, thanks for the advice! The board must have been the origin of the fire considering the drivers have all those precautions in place. It's a shame because I bought a brand new motherboard, brand new drivers (I had to wait for a few months for them to come in) and a brand new LCD screen and there all wrecked now except for possibly the screen. On top of that, it appears that there a bunch of wires on my Ender 3 that are fried. I don't know what the full extent of the damage is and am considering purchasing a new Ender 3 altogether.
Hi @Silas Foley. Oh dear that's quite unfortunate. I'm so sorry for you buddy. Buying a brand new Ender 3 may be a better option if you see damages to wires belonging to the steppers and/or thermistors. It is not necessary if you know how to check these component for proper resistances/continuity. Otherwise go for a brand new printer and salvage the damaged printer's parts as back-up or maybe a DIY printer of your own make. Parts can also be used in other electronics projects. Not all is lost. Don't get discouraged buddy. It can happen to anyone. I've got a long history of blowing stuff up. It's painful but somewhat a necessity to learning at least in my case. Hoping this helps a little bit.
Hey there @SenSenCyber. I'm using the default setting for Ender 3 which come with Cura 4.1. In fact I've been using the default settings for Ender 3 in many previous versions of Cura also. For my everyday printing I use a velocity of 60mm/s, acceleration at 1000mm/s/s and jerk at 10mm/s. Other settings are dependent on your material and 3D design. Hope this helps.
What is the difference between the green voltage terminal block, and the white voltage connector next to the motor connectors? For example, if I plug an MKS-CD expansion into the socket, to use an external driver (TB6600), which one powers the driver/motor?
Hey there @Ben Nguyen. The white connector basically is connected to the green connector I believe. IOW, if you power your board via a 24V supply voltage by plugging it into the green connector( which is a power inlet/input ), the same voltage will be available thru the while connector( which is for power output ). The power from your supply which you plug-in thru the green connector ( next to the bed connector ) will power your external driver. Hoping this helps.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 Thanks! I haven't had much success getting the motor to move reliably, but it's probably an issue with the changes I made to Marlin's Configuration.h file. I'm ordering a couple of known-supported motor drivers (A4988/DRV8825) to replace the MKS-CD/TB6600 driver. This should eliminate at least that variable! I've also ordered a cheap 5v stepper motor to test with, just in case it's an issue with my motor, but can a 5V motor be used with the MKS-Gen-L v1? The board says 12V/24V
Hi @chico cerven. Yes it'll be out by today by God's grace. Go ahead and order the following module that I'm using www.aliexpress.com/item/KuaiJieWei-3D-printer-Store-45-40mm-Independent-External-SD-Card-Slot-Module-with-20cm-Dupont-Cable/32878793742.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dU6rzHL . There are cheaper variation which claim to work out-of-the-box on the MKS Gen L board such as www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-External-SD-Card-Slot-Module-Independent-External-Module-with-Connecting-Cable-Line-3D-Printer/32854192637.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000014.1.630f53522hgz6p&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.112235.000000000000000&scm_id=1007.13338.112235.000000000000000&scm-url=1007.13338.112235.000000000000000&pvid=78c1d356-fc04-4d35-a129-c57b911aad23 but I have not tested it personally but should work.
Hi @waydaminute. Skipping steps? No I have not encountered this after the upgrade. However I did have this problem when I rebuilt the printer. I found out later that it was due to the bottom part of the coupling rubbing against the motor housing. Specifically the circular base part from which the shaft sticks out from. Hoping this may help.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 Thanks again for the great guide and reply. I'm following your guide and notice that a few others who upgraded with 2208 on mks gen boards cant get the etruder driver dialed in and ended up changing extruder driver to a lv8729. But since you are running with no problems I'll try 2208 in the extruder spot and see what happens.
Is that so? Interesting. I'll keep an eye out for it. My print settings are rather conservative I believe - v@60;a@1000;@j@5. So perhaps that's why I've never seen it. These are the same settings I used when my Ender 3 was in its stock configuration. I'll check out the LV8729 device. Thanks for information buddy.
Hey there @Renato Elias. Mine lines outside on the side of my printer. Michael of Teaching Tech has a solution you can find on Thingiverse - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3311643 . Its an adapter which maps the holes on the board to the casing mount points. Hope it helps.
now I'm trying to figure out why the nozzle's fan is not working... I've already tried 3 different ones and they don't spin. The pins have the correct voltage but nothing happens... is there anything we should change in the Marlim firmware regarding this fan?
Hey there @Renato Elias. My nozzle fan is connected directly to the 24V screw terminal and it comes ON as soon as power is applied to the printer's PSU. No there's no software/firmware setting for this as its directly powered. You've got me stumped too. Do the fans spin when any DC voltage is connected. Just to ensure the fans work. I''m sorry but I'm not sure how else to help buddy.
Hi Yemoja, any advice on why my lcd screen does not work? I reverse the connected as per your video but it does not work? What exp slot on lcd do you connect to?
Hi @El Viejoperro. I can't afford the touch screen solution, its a bit of an overkill for me but yea if you are into it then cool, go for it buddy. I am however going to try to install one of these - www.aliexpress.com/item/KuaiJieWei-3D-printer-Store-45-40mm-Independent-External-SD-Card-Slot-Module-with-20cm-Dupont-Cable/32878793742.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.702f4c4dJyYHyd. Still waiting for it to arrive though.
Yemoja makerRefuge Oh wow, thank you J, I will go for that SD solution as well, would you kind enough to do a video when able on installation and firmware set up? Thanks again Cris
Hello. Sorry I'm not sure what you are asking buddy. But the extruder motor's four pin connector labeled "E" connects to the black four-pin socket labeled E0 on the MKS Gen L board. The stepper motor connector are located right on the edge of the board next to the stepper driver sockets. Did I answer your question?
Heya @Jaron Durkee. I've not used any other LCD for this upgrade save for the stock one. Nor do I have any other for that matter of fact. Can you share some specifics of this LCD preferably schematics/pinout?
How have you mounted the MKS Gen L board? Are you going to use the stock enclosure? I'm thinking that the stock enclosure will work just fine just need to print a mounting adapter (plenty on Thingiverse). A problem I'm having is the case cooling fan. From what I've seen the stock 24V case cooling fan will plug into the socket labeled "12/24V". What I would like to do is print out a new cover plate for the case that has two fans. I have seen on "thingiverse" several of these and they all use two 12V fans with "step downs" or other means to connect these 12V fans. What I can't find is any info on how you would connect two 24V fans in the cover to cool the board? I know the stock fan is 24V, 0.10A. The two fans I would like to install would be 24V, 0.06A each. Could they be wired in parallel and simply plugged into the above mentioned "12/24V" socket? And would any settings have to be changed in the Marlin software? Sorry don't know some of the terminology for electronics. I'm asking this because I caught the comment you made about the stepper driver heat sinks being too hot to keep your finger on before it became uncomfortable. So that made me think how to keep them cool.
Hi @dlhoulton. Because I only have one printer and I'm experimenting with a multitude of things, currently the board sits on a paper-box and a 12V @80mm fan is stuck on the box right in front of the board. I am using one of those 12V step-down converters you mentioned. You can check-out Teaching Tech channel where Michael designed an adapter for the stock case and also a new case altogether. To answer your question on whether you can connect two 24V fans in PARALLEL into the socket labeled 12/24V, YES you can. And you wouldn't need any firmware change whatsoever. In fact you could also connect two identical 12V fans in SERIES and attach to the 12/24V receptacle if you have those lying around. Yes you correct, the drivers are NOT meant to run without active-cooling. Hoping this helps.
Thanks for your help. One other question. On the Ender 3 the control board fan and the parts cooling fan are on the same circuit. The control board fan does not come on to cool the stepper drivers/board until the parts cooling fan comes on. What about on the MKS Gen L board. Is the 12/24V socket/plug where the control board/case cooling fan plugged into constantly energized for continuous board/stepper cooling?
Yes you are right. The socket provides constant continuous power at the same voltage as your main power-supply unit i.e. 24V in the case of the Ender 3.
Hello @Casy Craig. Nothing buddy. The 256 micro-stepping is done internally a.k.a microPlyer. It works out-of-the-box for stand-alone mode of operation.
Yemoja makerRefuge Ok. I asked because in the video he talked about setting them to 1/2, 1/4 or 1/16 step. So what is that all about in regards to the 256 micro steps?
Good question @Casey Craig but the answer requires a video in itself. So the micro-steps mentioned in the video are the electrical pulses that are sent to the driver via the STEP pin. Hence, for our case of 1/16th step, we'll need to send 16 pulses in order for the motor to turn ONE complete revolution. What I believe microPlyer does is, instead of delivering the 1/16th step to motor right-away is chops-up the 1/16th step into another 16 steps internally (16 x 16 = 256). Meaning, when we send a command to the motor to advance by a micro-step (1/16), internally the driver sends an additional 16 smaller steps to the motor which makes-up for the sent micro-step. Thus smoother rotation of the shaft results. How is this achieved? By interpolating the physical/electrical sent micro-steps to a 256 step-table which is stored internally in the device. I really hope I'm making sense buddy.
I have instaled on my raspberry pi 3b+ octopi , that is conected to a mks gen l v1.0 motherboard for my 3d printer(ender 3 pro), soo wen i open my octoprint into a browser i can use octoprint . I wanted to install some pluggins ,but first time i had an error that said my server was offline , after conect my raspberry to wifi and set a static ip adress , i conect my raspberry to my main board , after that is said the status of octoprint was operational , soo i expected it will work .... After that it said that my instalation doesn't have internet , soo i coldn't install pluggins . I see that in the "conectivity check" my host was 8.8.8.8 and my port 53, i press on test , there said "server is unreachable ". What do i supose to do ?
Noob question: why does the reference voltage needs tot be higher when you are using the same motors as before im really confused why not use creality stock values and is the thing from the jumpers the same on every mainboard that you can buy if they have these connectors
Hi @Marc Vroegh. Sorry buddy for the real late reply. I am using the creality stock values. The different values are simply the voltage representation i.e. whether peak-to-peak or RMS values. I'm sorry but I do not understand the latter part of your question. Hoping this helps.
Hi @Jacy Light. Yes it is and that's because the manufacturer chose a very convenient resistor value which makes things easy for everyone. Otherwise it would have not been the case. Just wanted to share how the calculation was performed as there was no other place which showed it properly. Cheers.
Hi @anenkris De Pril. I have ordered an SD Card replacement part but it has yet to arrive. I haven't actually looked into that yet. Will compile that info into another video once I get it working. As of now, I run my printer using the Octoprint interface.
Hi @anenkris De Pril Yes I did. Currently working on the video for that. You can go ahead and order this unit, www.aliexpress.com/item/KuaiJieWei-3D-printer-Store-45-40mm-Independent-External-SD-Card-Slot-Module-with-20cm-Dupont-Cable/32878793742.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.384c4c4dHLUtdN. This is one of the units which works for me. There are cheaper versions of this though so do look out.
Hi @Maciek Pytka. It is something I'll start working on soon. I've got my BLTouch and haven't yet done any work on it. I'm currently busy with another video and it has taken me some time. I'll look into that soon as I've been itching to play with auto-bed leveling.
Hi @Plazma! The revision numbers are specific to the manufacturer and you probably want to approach the manufacturer of your module for details. For instance, Fystec has revision 1.0 & 1.2. You can check out their Wiki at wiki.fysetc.com/TMC2208/. Basically, revision 1.0 modules are for stand-alone operation whereas the 1.2 ones are UART configured modules for use with their F6 board ( see wiki.fysetc.com/F6_V1.3/). Hope this helps.
thanks for the video, I am having issues with the lcd screen not working, I tried switching the cable to backwards on the board as in the video, tried it in each slot on the back of the lcd, tried 2 calbes from the board to the lcd and still only lights up the board but no graphics.
Hey @Jeremy Lee. Plug-in the cable in reverse into the socket on the MKS Gen L board labeled EXP1 only. Need NOT change the connector orientation at the LCD side. That's all I needed to do to get mine working. Hoping it works for you too buddy.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 I turned it on today to work on it again and the screen is working now. the only thing not working is my hotend cooling fan. I know it is supposed to kick on at 50 degrees but I heat up the hotend to 180 to test and no fan
Hi @Jeremy Lee. I'm glad the LCD works. In this video series I have opted to connect my hot-end fan directly to the 24V screw-terminal block. What you want to achieve requires additional firmware changes and the fan would be then connected to the HE1 screw-terminal block. Michael at Teaching Tech has covered this in one his videos in regards to the MKS Gen L upgrade for Ender 3. Good luck.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 in adv.h search E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN change the value from -1 to 7 and the fan will come on when the hotend hits 60 degrees but you will need to connect the fan to the board where marked E0 that way the fan does not get incremental power like the hotend does. Next question lol I tried my first print and it is printing really small for some reason did I miss a step?
Hey @Jeremy Lee. Yea I have been investigating that for another video. Thanks for the information. Regarding your problem, perhaps you made a mistake when editing the firmware sources. Or your gcode file may actually have been accidentally resized when converting from stl? I don't know but could selecting other step-size besides 1/16th cause that but it probably has to be done for all stepper driver. Maybe double-check that?
I have the identical tmc2208 v1.1 stepper drivers. I can not get them to work in UART mode on my MKS GEN L. Did you? I soldered the UART pin with a split wire. One end has a 1Kohm resistor. Then I plugged the wires in the aux2 pins as shown by teaching tech. When I send a M122 command to state the driver status, they are not enabled and don't have a driver register.
I'm also trying to figure everything out. In the process of upgrading my Ender-3 with MKS Gen L + 4x TMC2208 in UART + MKS TFT28 + E3D V6 + BLTOUCHv2.0 -- I was under the impression these specific versions of TMC2208 drivers didn't need any additional wiring for UART mode. All that's needed is to set them up as TMC2208 (without 'STANDALONE') in Marlin fw. I'd love a clarification on this also.
Yeah lol nevermind my first post, sorry but I misinterpreted the features write-up for these specific Makerbase v1.1 boards. As far as I can tell the UART pin is now connected direct to the chip, negating the need to solder any jumpers to make the connection as with most other versions of these drivers. So the board itself is technically 'UART-ready' from factory... But we still need to connect that pin to a TX/RX interface on the MKS Gen L to make use of it. else; no communication is physically possible. So, If you've done more than 5mins of research you're more informed than I am and have made and connected the Y cables, and assuming you have double-checked it for continuity etc. then make sure you only use TMC2208 instead of TMC2208_STANDALONE when configuring Marlin (also make sure you download Marlin v1.1.9 or newer) Also check that M112 is actually enabled in fw (uncomment TMC_DEBUG), but I'm guessing you already knew that.. That's all I can think of atm... Which isn't all that surprising. Please let me know if you get it working, I'll do the same once/if I finish. If you haven't noticed by now, please keep in mind that I am still trying to figure it all out myself and could be completely wrong, but I will humbly accept and appreciate any corrections, additions, tips & tricks from yourself or anyone else that is still reading this for some reason. =)
@@ayeayre Let's do this together! I connected the uart ready pin to a TX/RX interface on the MKS Gen L. I used the pins as described in Marlin 1.1.9 bugfix. I also made the necessary changes to the firmware including TMC2208 drivers and enabling M122 debug command. And yes there is continuity from the stepper pin to both ends of the wires. Still no communication is happening with the drivers. That's why I am a bit lost. I could use them as standalone, but prefer not to.
hi @t0pa. I need to know the exact driver you are using. That said if the driver pinout for the device is akin to the driver that I'm using here then definitely yes. All you need to do is select "TMC2209_STANDALONE". Checking Marlin's "Configuration_adv.h" reveals that the tmc2209 can be used for sensorless homing which is NOT covered here. Hoping this helps.
Hi @Cody Cato. I haven't tried but I do believe so. You'll need to change "TMC2208_STANDALONE" to "TMC2208" to choose UART mode of operation. Hoping it helps.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 I notice there are no points to solder underneath and 2 NC pins instead of one. All the tutorials i saw has a CLK pin next to the UART.
@Cody Cato. Yea newer version of the driver I believe come prepped for UART mode operation. Do check with the manufacturer of your modules. Refer to the comments from @The Crab to get an idea on how to proceed. I've not tried this myself so I'm not entirely sure.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 ok iam going with lv8729 as it's cheaper than tmc 2208. I am noob , so with lv8729 should I do exactly what you did? All the coding and installation in motherboard just like 2208. ??. Or should I change something
@michael martin you'll just need to change 'TMC2208_STANDALONE' to 'LV8729' for the code bit. Other than that, I suppose you're good to go. I don't have this driver so I can't say for sure. All the best bro...Hoping this helps.
Hi Bro. Thanks a lot for your great job. You've mentioned that motors and TMC2208 are hot when printing. Maybe is it caused by too high Vref? I know that you set it to be as close to stock values as possible, but Watterott on their site says "Do not set the drivers to the maximum rated current of the respective stepper motor. A good point to start is half of the rated current." learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/faq/ So maybe it could be worth to run some tests to find optimal Vref values for Ender 3, to get nice print quality without losing steps, and to provide cold drivers / motors at the same time.
Hi @gr0mov. Thanks for sharing the link I haven't seen that before. You are right, I have tried setting the drivers to lower values and did some small prints without any problems. But I haven't been able to explain the reason. It is possible that the rDS typical vs max. values give some room for play but then it is dependent on individual driver. I have been looking to systematically quantify the optimum settings based on data from the specifications but no progress yet. It could also be the stepping algorithm is much efficient at adapting to the dynamics of the motor characteristics which are due to the reactive nature of the coil windings. Meaning, the high-resolution stealthChop may be better at tracking the current levels thru the motor windings and adapting the voltage-levels for generating the next-step. In other words, the high-resolution would be able to produce much closer values to an ideal sinusoidal current waveform thru the motor coils. This could allow us to drive the motor at lower current values in comparison to drivers like the A4988. Again, this is only my opinion and I have nothing to back-it up with save for reasoning from my LIMITED understanding of h-bridges and electric motors. So sorry I got carried-away with this topic, but thank you for the suggestion. I have been wondering about this myself to say the least.
Hi @@yemojamakerrefuge898 I've setup all my steppers at 75% of their max rated current (as we know, stock in Ender 3 is about 90%). I can touch heatsinks and keep them in fingers without a problem (I've installed bigger 15x14x13 mm heatsink on Extruder's stepper for better heat disspation). They are warm but not hot. The same happens with motors - they are warm as they were with A4988. To be honest I also wanted to check values about 50% according to Watterott suggestion, but I was affraid of losing steps. Then I found official Trinamic solution to prevent such situation - acceleration values in Marlin (DEFAULT_ACCELERATION, DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION & DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION) should be slighty decreased. More info here: th-cam.com/video/c3v9E1AwDBE/w-d-xo.html Finally I haven't checked that, but at this moment I see no problems with my setup - no overheating, no lost steps, stock acceleration's values are also saved. So my Vref values for TMC2208 assembled by FYSECT (version 1.2) and configured in Standalone / Legacy mode are: 0,63V for XYZ and 0,75V for Extruder.
![ลองสั่งของจากแอพ temu ถูกจริงหรอ?? ( part : 1/2 ) [โกงไหมครับ ep.89 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RTcZSQTiDZw/mqdefault.jpg)
This guide is the most best and clear that i've ever seen!
This is by far the most complete guide I have seen on this topic! Fantastic!
Thanks! This was a huge help in my MKS GEN L Conversion. I had some issues with the steppers making clunking noises, but I must not have set vRef correctly - because when I went back to double check them, the motor that was having issues was set way too high. Once I adjusted that, they work great! It is amazing how quiet it is!
Thanks for a comprehensive video. Got turned on to these with teaching techs page but he blew through the settings.
This is the best tutorial of this update for ender 3, thank you very much.
Thanks Jay for another very helpful video. I can't believe how low the noise level is now.
Hi @Chuck Hassett. Yea I can't believe it either. It's so cool to watch my printer print with almost no noise.
Thank you. Your efforts are appreciated.
Your two tutorials are truly great, thr best I looked up so far! I would only criticise one thing in your first video: anyone that modifies his 3D printer knows that you open a folder by doubleclicking it- what I mean is that you don't need to explain every single click, even for beginners like me
Hello @Sven Sorg. Ah I see. Noted with thanks buddy.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 I like the way you explained it. That way there is no way to misunderstand.
Just came across this guide, what a really in-depth explanation. Thank you. 👏
Thanks! I'm about to do this to my Ender. I'll be following your guide!
Thank you so much for your video.
Your video is very good, easy to understand. Don't stop doing good videos. I will keep track of your work forever.
Thank for this wonderful tutorial. Step by step and easy to understand. Total Agreement with Daniel Cue.
Tip. For connecting the LCD ribbon cable you can also flip the MKS board connector.
Yes you are right @Marcel de Goede. Thanks for sharing buddy.
nice. thank you
Thank you! Very clear instructions and super video! Appreciated!
Thanks for taking the time and sharing. 👍
Thanks a lot for this guide! It helped me a lot!
Awesome video.. Thanks.
Thanks for this great in-depth video. I was thinking of upgrading to an SKR V1.1 board with TMC2208. I just ordered a board with 5 TMC2208 for really cheap and want to try it out.
Heya @Matt Mannino. Cool! I have the same board but need to fix the SD Card slot as it doesn't hold the SD Card in. I haven't tried it yet. It is for a Kossel which I have been dreaming of building. Just collecting parts for now. What do you plan to run on it? Smoothieware?
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 I was planning on running Marlin on it for now. I was planning on getting the MKS GEN L and 2208s but found this board which is 32 bit and comes with 5 2208s for $40: www.biqu.equipment/collections/control-board-kits/products/bigtreetech-skr-v1-1-motherboard-32-bit-smoothieboard-arm-cpu-control-board-open-source-for-tft3-5-printer-pannel?variant=18528277889122
Hello @Matt Mannino. Ah I see. But Marlin 2.0 is still in development and is primarily used by developers for development/testing/verification. It is in alpha stage and there's a large RED caption which reads "Proceed with Caution" at the Download site.
So you are wanting to experiment with Marlin 2.0 I believe?
That is impressive... Going to update mine soon. Thanks for the videos!
Thank you so much
Thank you sir, good tutorial
Are you going to be doing a video on a bltouch or touch screen with this new board? That would be awesome. Great videos, keep up the good work.
Hi @Chico Cerven! Yes BLTouch is in the pipeline. Currently I'm busy with setting-up my new PC as my old laptop was having a hard-time coping-up with the video rendering. Also, needed to configure my workshop in order to use space more efficiently.
As for a touchscreen, I'll consider the request as it has been made a few times. The touchscreen is quite expensive more my liking.
The touchscreen is definitely to expensive.
You are the real MVP
Where do you add the fan on the top of the motherboard at? Only one I can't figure out
Hi @Iance Meck. I connected it directly to the 24V supply terminal block. Hope it helps.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 thanks i figured that after i wrote this lol. do you know where we add the bltouch to this board?
Heya @lance Meck. Connect the servo three wire connector to the row with pins, D11:5V:GND, in the SERVOS1 header. Refer to schematic(scroll down) for pinout, www.biqu.equipment/products/mks-gen-l-v1-0-integrated-controller-pcb-board-compatible-ramps-1-6-support-a4988-drv8825-tmc2208-tmc2130-for-3d-printer .This represent SERVO0 which is the default when BLTouch is enabled.
Then plug-out the Z-min endstop connector and replace it with the BLTouch's 2-wire connector.
For my case, 3-pin connector from BLTouch connects as following
D11 - Orange[Signal]
5V - RED[Power]
GND - Brown[Ground]
& the 2-pin connector connects to Z-,
G - Black
S - White
Hoping this helps.
Fantastic videos! I succesfully upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to MKS GEN L + TMC2208 with your help and videos - thank you!
Question: Michael at TeachingTech's video uses X,Y,Z vRef values of 0.76, and his sense resistor is also 110. Is it better to err on the lower or higher vRef side? I have used your values of .725 (x,y,z) but now I am second-guessing which value is correct / best to use. Are there any other hardware differences I should be aware of to check on mine, to ensure I'm using the correct calculated values for my specific h/w? THANK YOU!
Ah, I see in Michael's first video, he uses max current values of 0.84A (for the X,Y,Z motors) & 1.0A (E): th-cam.com/video/H41hIXdB6js/w-d-xo.html. Whereas you are using (@9:38) 0.725A & 0.9A respectively. I'm still not sure which calc / values are correct though.
Heya @Glen Schulz. Sorry for the late reply. I'm using the max current values obtained by measuring the original drivers on the stock Ender 3 board. Also, there's a page which I shared where you can find the Ender 3 stock max current values. I'm using these values as a reference as Creality has not shared any other technical specifications explaining why they chose those values. The specs on the motor are pretty much unknown as is the mechanical loading of the axes & extruder etc.
That said, the TMC2208 drives are much more efficient overall than the A4988 and I have set these values lower and still the printer printed without any problems. The rule of thumb is to start high and trim down to a smaller value depending on how fast you print. I generally print at velocity@60; acceleration@1000; jerk@10 and those max current values give me no problems whatsoever at these requirements.
My calculations are sound as I've gone thru them may many times. The real question is exactly which max current value is optimum for the printer axes & extruder but as of now I've not been able to find a way to calculate that. Since simulation is not possible as there are too many unknowns this leaves us with experimentation. So we come back to trial & error to find the best values for the individual printers. I've gone down all the way to 0.6v & 0.8v respectively and still found no printing issues for my printing demands.
Anyway, lower values are better as it dictates power efficiency. Hoping this helps.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 thank you so much for the detailed reply, Jugnu. I've used your values and have not had any problems so far - so thank you again!!
Hey Jugnu, these are excellent videos, exactly what I needed!
Just have one thing I want to check with you though; I recieved TMC2208 version 1.2 even though the listing picture showed 1.0, ugh... Do you know if they will work properly? There are 3 pins where the 3 "NC" pins are on your 1.0 called "CLK", "PDN", and "UART".
As long as I set them up in Marlin the same way you show in your video they should work right? If you aren't sure, no worries, just thought I'd ask before doing some digging around the net. :)
Thanks for such a great tutorial, really appreciate it!
Hi @The Crab. I'm not sure whether the v1.2 TMC2208 driver will work in legacy mode out-of-the-box. The Fystec wiki, wiki.fysetc.com/TMC2208/, specifically mentions the v1.2 are already in UART mode for use with their F6 board which is described at wiki.fysetc.com/F6_V1.3/.
It maybe as simple as reversing whatever is needed to get v1.0 driver in UART mode.
They have a forum which may help you out as well. Check-out the comments at the bottom of each page linked above.
Sorry wish I could be more help buddy.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 No problem man, thanks for the links! Did a bit of digging but couldn't find any info yet, so I'm just waiting for them to approve approve my registration on the forums and I'll ask them about it. When they get back to me I'll send you a link to it in case anyone else asks you.
Thanks again!
So I ended up spending the last 5 hours doing some research and managed to figure this out (and the printer's happily working silently right now!! :D ). Anyone else that want's to use the v1.2 rather than wait another month for delivery, read on.
Depending where you order the 2208's from you may or may not have to do some soldering. I ordered mine from Banggood and they have already done all of the soldering required to use this version in standalone mode. To find out if you will need to do it, follow these steps:
1) Find the 3 pins named "CLK" "PDN", & "UART" and then flip the board over to the chip side.
2) There will be 3 small jumper pads meant for switching between UART and Standalone mode. Find the three pads closest to those 3 pins.
3A) If any of those 3 pads have solder bridging them, you will need to remove the solder.
-or-
3B) In my case there was some solder on 2 of the pads, but it was not creating a bridge between them. If you find the same on yours (or no solder at all) you do not need to do anything further, simply follow Jugnu's awesome guide and you're done!
My best guess is the supplier ran out of ver 1.0 boards and bought ver 1.2's instead which should have a small metal link soldered between those 2 pads and just removed it to turn them back into 1.0 compatible boards. It may not be the same if you buy from Amazon, or get non-Fystec branded boards, so make sure to check them carefully before installing to prevent any chance of damage (not likely but I wouldn't risk it, they aren't cheap).
Thanks Jugnu! My upgrade adding MKS Gen L + 2208's + MKS TFT 2.8" Touch Screen is finally complete!!! :D
Hey @The Crab. I'm so glad your upgrade works. Thanks so much for sharing your experience. Appreciate it.
Great video thanks. What size are the ferrules you used?
Hey there @Hunt Moorhouse. It measure to 1.5mm outer diameter of the metal tube of the ferrule. I bought a pack of various inter-mixed diameters so I'm not exactly sure. Hope this helps.
im confused about one thing sir, i have the a4988 drivers does all of the part one and part two applies for it or are your tutorials only for the tmc drivers?
thankyou very much for your response
Hi @Aqib Akbar. This tutorial is specific to the TMC2208 correct. But if you want to use the A4988 drivers then just select the driver "A4988" instead of "TMC2208" when configuring drivers during the firmware configuration bit. For hardware configuration, you need no other changes. The changes shown in the second part will work for the A4988 as well. Make sure you select the correct step size which is 1/16th by configuring the jumpers as shown in that part. Hope this helps.
Yemoja makerRefuge thankyou so much! please upload mks l with tft32 screen
I am wondering in one uses a pancake stepper motor for E would the values be smaller?
Hey @3lemental Studios. The values that you are referring to I'm assuming you mean current limit volatge. Then, it comes down to the specs of the motor. If the specs are the same as the original than the current limit voltage would need to be the same. The values shown are NOT optimal as the motor specs and the mechanical loads are somewhat unknown/unspecified for the Ender 3. The calculation is equivalent values based on my measurements for my machine and references from other sources.
Hoping this is what you are asking. Hope it helps.
Love the video. But what about the ender stock board cooling fan? Where do i connect that?
Hi @Ahmad Zaki. I connected mine to the 24V supply terminal block. Hope it helps.
Hello I did not understand a passage in the video using the TMC 2208 I have to remove the pin n ' 3 from the card MKS or no ?
Hi @Andrea Flego. If you mean remove the jumper from MS3 then you are right technically NO jumper on pins MS3. You ONLY need jumpers on pins MS1 & MS2 for 1/16th step-size selection.
Hope it helps.
Great tutorial Yemoja, could you make your file already configured?
Hi @Everton Soares. Download this branch as a zip file or something - gitlab.com/jugnu-jethi/myender3firmware/tree/Ender3-MKSGenL-TMC2208_Legacy . This has all the changes you are requesting. Hope it helps.
Thank you Yemoja for your attention and for your channel to continue to grow by staffing. I will try soon
This was a very well put together tutorial, but a couple minutes after I finished tuning the drivers the motherboard and/or the drivers lit on fire. My biggest regret is that I didn't have any marshmallows handy.
Hi @Silas Foley. Seriously? I'm really sorry to hear that. But your board caught fire? Perhaps you may have had a faulty board. The TMC2208 drivers have short-circuit and over-temperature protection which would have prevented anything bad from happening to them. Possibly the MOSFETs for the extruder or bed heater given a short-circuit condition in either heating elements. Polarity reversal could also cause such an incident. Again, I'm sorry to hear of your predicament. Please exercise extreme caution when handling electronics.
Things I've learned from my experience if they apply. Always have your hand on the power-off button. If anything smells funny quickly hit the power-off button. Double/Triple check everything. When tired even if a bit, hold-off everything and continue after resting.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 Okay, thanks for the advice! The board must have been the origin of the fire considering the drivers have all those precautions in place. It's a shame because I bought a brand new motherboard, brand new drivers (I had to wait for a few months for them to come in) and a brand new LCD screen and there all wrecked now except for possibly the screen. On top of that, it appears that there a bunch of wires on my Ender 3 that are fried. I don't know what the full extent of the damage is and am considering purchasing a new Ender 3 altogether.
Hi @Silas Foley. Oh dear that's quite unfortunate. I'm so sorry for you buddy. Buying a brand new Ender 3 may be a better option if you see damages to wires belonging to the steppers and/or thermistors. It is not necessary if you know how to check these component for proper resistances/continuity. Otherwise go for a brand new printer and salvage the damaged printer's parts as back-up or maybe a DIY printer of your own make. Parts can also be used in other electronics projects. Not all is lost.
Don't get discouraged buddy. It can happen to anyone. I've got a long history of blowing stuff up. It's painful but somewhat a necessity to learning at least in my case. Hoping this helps a little bit.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 It helps a lot! thanks for the help and the encouragement, it means a lot.
Can you Upload your Cura settings?
On my Ender 3 all results Trash :(
Hey there @SenSenCyber. I'm using the default setting for Ender 3 which come with Cura 4.1. In fact I've been using the default settings for Ender 3 in many previous versions of Cura also. For my everyday printing I use a velocity of 60mm/s, acceleration at 1000mm/s/s and jerk at 10mm/s. Other settings are dependent on your material and 3D design. Hope this helps.
What is the difference between the green voltage terminal block, and the white voltage connector next to the motor connectors? For example, if I plug an MKS-CD expansion into the socket, to use an external driver (TB6600), which one powers the driver/motor?
Hey there @Ben Nguyen. The white connector basically is connected to the green connector I believe. IOW, if you power your board via a 24V supply voltage by plugging it into the green connector( which is a power inlet/input ), the same voltage will be available thru the while connector( which is for power output ). The power from your supply which you plug-in thru the green connector ( next to the bed connector ) will power your external driver. Hoping this helps.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 Thanks! I haven't had much success getting the motor to move reliably, but it's probably an issue with the changes I made to Marlin's Configuration.h file. I'm ordering a couple of known-supported motor drivers (A4988/DRV8825) to replace the MKS-CD/TB6600 driver. This should eliminate at least that variable! I've also ordered a cheap 5v stepper motor to test with, just in case it's an issue with my motor, but can a 5V motor be used with the MKS-Gen-L v1? The board says 12V/24V
Hi @Ben Nguyen. Nope I don't think so buddy. You may be able to use it for brief tests but you'll end up damaging it. My 2 cents worth. Cheers.
Awesome video! Just installed the mks gen l. Are you going to do a video on sd card support, my printer is useless right now.
Hi @chico cerven. Yes it'll be out by today by God's grace. Go ahead and order the following module that I'm using www.aliexpress.com/item/KuaiJieWei-3D-printer-Store-45-40mm-Independent-External-SD-Card-Slot-Module-with-20cm-Dupont-Cable/32878793742.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dU6rzHL . There are cheaper variation which claim to work out-of-the-box on the MKS Gen L board such as www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-External-SD-Card-Slot-Module-Independent-External-Module-with-Connecting-Cable-Line-3D-Printer/32854192637.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000014.1.630f53522hgz6p&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.112235.000000000000000&scm_id=1007.13338.112235.000000000000000&scm-url=1007.13338.112235.000000000000000&pvid=78c1d356-fc04-4d35-a129-c57b911aad23 but I have not tested it personally but should work.
Thank you. Have you had any problems with the 2208 on your extruder? It being too weak? or skipping steps?
Hi @waydaminute. Skipping steps? No I have not encountered this after the upgrade.
However I did have this problem when I rebuilt the printer. I found out later that it was due to the bottom part of the coupling rubbing against the motor housing. Specifically the circular base part from which the shaft sticks out from. Hoping this may help.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 Thanks again for the great guide and reply. I'm following your guide and notice that a few others who upgraded with 2208 on mks gen boards cant get the etruder driver dialed in and ended up changing extruder driver to a lv8729. But since you are running with no problems I'll try 2208 in the extruder spot and see what happens.
Is that so? Interesting. I'll keep an eye out for it. My print settings are rather conservative I believe - v@60;a@1000;@j@5. So perhaps that's why I've never seen it. These are the same settings I used when my Ender 3 was in its stock configuration.
I'll check out the LV8729 device.
Thanks for information buddy.
12:40 - just rotate the socket on the mainboard. Use a small flat screwdriver.
Thanks a lot for this very detailed tutorial...
Just one doubt... how have you fit the MKS Gen L board into the Ender's electronics box?
Hey there @Renato Elias. Mine lines outside on the side of my printer. Michael of Teaching Tech has a solution you can find on Thingiverse - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3311643 . Its an adapter which maps the holes on the board to the casing mount points. Hope it helps.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 I've designed my own solution using the stock Ender's box. Here it is www.thingiverse.com/thing:3607376
now I'm trying to figure out why the nozzle's fan is not working... I've already tried 3 different ones and they don't spin. The pins have the correct voltage but nothing happens... is there anything we should change in the Marlim firmware regarding this fan?
Hey there @Renato Elias. My nozzle fan is connected directly to the 24V screw terminal and it comes ON as soon as power is applied to the printer's PSU. No there's no software/firmware setting for this as its directly powered. You've got me stumped too. Do the fans spin when any DC voltage is connected. Just to ensure the fans work. I''m sorry but I'm not sure how else to help buddy.
The fan I was talking about is that one controlled and connected to D7...but I've worked out the issue... The fan's plug was with reversed polarity...
Hi Yemoja, any advice on why my lcd screen does not work? I reverse the connected as per your video but it does not work? What exp slot on lcd do you connect to?
Hi @Leigh. Its labeled EXP1 on my board. Right next to the E1 driver socket. Hope it works.
Thank you, what a great detailed tutorial, I don't have a Rasperry Pi, how can I have SD support?, changing the LCD for a touch one with SD slot?
Hi @El Viejoperro. I can't afford the touch screen solution, its a bit of an overkill for me but yea if you are into it then cool, go for it buddy.
I am however going to try to install one of these - www.aliexpress.com/item/KuaiJieWei-3D-printer-Store-45-40mm-Independent-External-SD-Card-Slot-Module-with-20cm-Dupont-Cable/32878793742.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.702f4c4dJyYHyd.
Still waiting for it to arrive though.
Yemoja makerRefuge
Oh wow, thank you J, I will go for that SD solution as well, would you kind enough to do a video when able on installation and firmware set up?
Thanks again Cris
Yea sure buddy :)
Did Ezabl runs on MKS Gen l with marlin?
Hi @Der Zat. I've not tried EZABL but I don't see why it wouldn't work with the MKS Gen L. I personally use BLTouch. Hope this helps.
Hello ,
I could ask for a scheme to connect the extruder motor to the main board in the ender 3 printer.
Hello. Sorry I'm not sure what you are asking buddy. But the extruder motor's four pin connector labeled "E" connects to the black four-pin socket labeled E0 on the MKS Gen L board. The stepper motor connector are located right on the edge of the board next to the stepper driver sockets. Did I answer your question?
I tried to install an upgraded RepRap LCD on the board and it does not work whatsoever. How do I make it work?
Heya @Jaron Durkee. I've not used any other LCD for this upgrade save for the stock one. Nor do I have any other for that matter of fact. Can you share some specifics of this LCD preferably schematics/pinout?
How have you mounted the MKS Gen L board? Are you going to use the stock enclosure? I'm thinking that the stock enclosure will work just fine just need to print a mounting adapter (plenty on Thingiverse). A problem I'm having is the case cooling fan. From what I've seen the stock 24V case cooling fan will plug into the socket labeled "12/24V". What I would like to do is print out a new cover plate for the case that has two fans. I have seen on "thingiverse" several of these and they all use two 12V fans with "step downs" or other means to connect these 12V fans. What I can't find is any info on how you would connect two 24V fans in the cover to cool the board? I know the stock fan is 24V, 0.10A. The two fans I would like to install would be 24V, 0.06A each. Could they be wired in parallel and simply plugged into the above mentioned "12/24V" socket? And would any settings have to be changed in the Marlin software? Sorry don't know some of the terminology for electronics. I'm asking this because I caught the comment you made about the stepper driver heat sinks being too hot to keep your finger on before it became uncomfortable. So that made me think how to keep them cool.
Hi @dlhoulton. Because I only have one printer and I'm experimenting with a multitude of things, currently the board sits on a paper-box and a 12V @80mm fan is stuck on the box right in front of the board. I am using one of those 12V step-down converters you mentioned.
You can check-out Teaching Tech channel where Michael designed an adapter for the stock case and also a new case altogether.
To answer your question on whether you can connect two 24V fans in PARALLEL into the socket labeled 12/24V, YES you can. And you wouldn't need any firmware change whatsoever.
In fact you could also connect two identical 12V fans in SERIES and attach to the 12/24V receptacle if you have those lying around.
Yes you correct, the drivers are NOT meant to run without active-cooling.
Hoping this helps.
Thanks for your help. One other question. On the Ender 3 the control board fan and the parts cooling fan are on the same circuit. The control board fan does not come on to cool the stepper drivers/board until the parts cooling fan comes on. What about on the MKS Gen L board. Is the 12/24V socket/plug where the control board/case cooling fan plugged into constantly energized for continuous board/stepper cooling?
Yes you are right. The socket provides constant continuous power at the same voltage as your main power-supply unit i.e. 24V in the case of the Ender 3.
What are the steps necessary if you want to take full advantage of the 256 microstepping functionality that the TMC2208s offer?
Hello @Casy Craig. Nothing buddy. The 256 micro-stepping is done internally a.k.a microPlyer. It works out-of-the-box for stand-alone mode of operation.
Yemoja makerRefuge Ok. I asked because in the video he talked about setting them to 1/2, 1/4 or 1/16 step. So what is that all about in regards to the 256 micro steps?
Good question @Casey Craig but the answer requires a video in itself.
So the micro-steps mentioned in the video are the electrical pulses that are sent to the driver via the STEP pin. Hence, for our case of 1/16th step, we'll need to send 16 pulses in order for the motor to turn ONE complete revolution.
What I believe microPlyer does is, instead of delivering the 1/16th step to motor right-away is chops-up the 1/16th step into another 16 steps internally (16 x 16 = 256). Meaning, when we send a command to the motor to advance by a micro-step (1/16), internally the driver sends an additional 16 smaller steps to the motor which makes-up for the sent micro-step.
Thus smoother rotation of the shaft results. How is this achieved? By interpolating the physical/electrical sent micro-steps to a 256 step-table which is stored internally in the device.
I really hope I'm making sense buddy.
Yemoja makerRefuge. Excellent reply. Thank you. That makes perfect sense.
I have instaled on my raspberry pi 3b+ octopi , that is conected to a mks gen l v1.0 motherboard for my 3d printer(ender 3 pro), soo wen i open my octoprint into a browser i can use octoprint . I wanted to install some pluggins ,but first time i had an error that said my server was offline , after conect my raspberry to wifi and set a static ip adress , i conect my raspberry to my main board , after that is said the status of octoprint was operational , soo i expected it will work ....
After that it said that my instalation doesn't have internet , soo i coldn't install pluggins . I see that in the "conectivity check" my host was 8.8.8.8 and my port 53, i press on test , there said "server is unreachable ".
What do i supose to do ?
Hi @Mercenary 05. Sorry your comment got stuck in the SPAM box. Hoping this has been resolved. So sorry buddy.
Noob question: why does the reference voltage needs tot be higher when you are using the same motors as before im really confused why not use creality stock values and is the thing from the jumpers the same on every mainboard that you can buy if they have these connectors
Hi @Marc Vroegh. Sorry buddy for the real late reply. I am using the creality stock values. The different values are simply the voltage representation i.e. whether peak-to-peak or RMS values. I'm sorry but I do not understand the latter part of your question. Hoping this helps.
You did all that math from vref to Rms to get the same values
Hi @Jacy Light. Yes it is and that's because the manufacturer chose a very convenient resistor value which makes things easy for everyone. Otherwise it would have not been the case. Just wanted to share how the calculation was performed as there was no other place which showed it properly. Cheers.
I think am ready to order the parts and take the leap....
How do you attach the sd card reader? Is there a change needed in Marlin for the reader?
Hi @anenkris De Pril. I have ordered an SD Card replacement part but it has yet to arrive. I haven't actually looked into that yet. Will compile that info into another video once I get it working. As of now, I run my printer using the Octoprint interface.
Did you get the sd reader working?
Hi @anenkris De Pril Yes I did. Currently working on the video for that. You can go ahead and order this unit, www.aliexpress.com/item/KuaiJieWei-3D-printer-Store-45-40mm-Independent-External-SD-Card-Slot-Module-with-20cm-Dupont-Cable/32878793742.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.384c4c4dHLUtdN. This is one of the units which works for me. There are cheaper versions of this though so do look out.
Already ordered that one. 👌😉
I’d like to use www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291565 for the usb and sd card slot. Needs adjusting for the sd slot.
Just wondering what happens if you later on put in a TFT28 which has also sd card reader on board? Will they both work?
how to connect a bltouch and configure soft?
Hi @Maciek Pytka. It is something I'll start working on soon. I've got my BLTouch and haven't yet done any work on it. I'm currently busy with another video and it has taken me some time. I'll look into that soon as I've been itching to play with auto-bed leveling.
thank you gj, whats the difference tmc 2208 v1.0 - 1.1 - 1.2 ?
Hi @Plazma! The revision numbers are specific to the manufacturer and you probably want to approach the manufacturer of your module for details. For instance, Fystec has revision 1.0 & 1.2. You can check out their Wiki at wiki.fysetc.com/TMC2208/. Basically, revision 1.0 modules are for stand-alone operation whereas the 1.2 ones are UART configured modules for use with their F6 board ( see wiki.fysetc.com/F6_V1.3/). Hope this helps.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 thank you very much, if i dont use uart it doesnt matter for me right, all version is ok for me
Yes that's right buddy but preferably go for the v1.0 devices for stand-alone operation if that's what you want your drivers to run in. It's easier.
thanks for the video, I am having issues with the lcd screen not working, I tried switching the cable to backwards on the board as in the video, tried it in each slot on the back of the lcd, tried 2 calbes from the board to the lcd and still only lights up the board but no graphics.
Hey @Jeremy Lee. Plug-in the cable in reverse into the socket on the MKS Gen L board labeled EXP1 only. Need NOT change the connector orientation at the LCD side. That's all I needed to do to get mine working. Hoping it works for you too buddy.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 I turned it on today to work on it again and the screen is working now. the only thing not working is my hotend cooling fan. I know it is supposed to kick on at 50 degrees but I heat up the hotend to 180 to test and no fan
Hi @Jeremy Lee. I'm glad the LCD works. In this video series I have opted to connect my hot-end fan directly to the 24V screw-terminal block.
What you want to achieve requires additional firmware changes and the fan would be then connected to the HE1 screw-terminal block.
Michael at Teaching Tech has covered this in one his videos in regards to the MKS Gen L upgrade for Ender 3. Good luck.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 in adv.h search E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN change the value from -1 to 7 and the fan will come on when the hotend hits 60 degrees but you will need to connect the fan to the board where marked E0 that way the fan does not get incremental power like the hotend does. Next question lol I tried my first print and it is printing really small for some reason did I miss a step?
Hey @Jeremy Lee. Yea I have been investigating that for another video. Thanks for the information.
Regarding your problem, perhaps you made a mistake when editing the firmware sources. Or your gcode file may actually have been accidentally resized when converting from stl?
I don't know but could selecting other step-size besides 1/16th cause that but it probably has to be done for all stepper driver. Maybe double-check that?
Hello, can you halp me ? I want install bltouch and screen tft 32 can you explain me How to do ? Good video i see you from Italy 👍👍👍
Hi @Andre Flego. I'm working on BLTouch video now. Will consider your request for TFT32 buddy. Check back soon for BLTouch.
I have the identical tmc2208 v1.1 stepper drivers. I can not get them to work in UART mode on my MKS GEN L. Did you?
I soldered the UART pin with a split wire. One end has a 1Kohm resistor. Then I plugged the wires in the aux2 pins as shown by teaching tech. When I send a M122 command to state the driver status, they are not enabled and don't have a driver register.
I'm also trying to figure everything out. In the process of upgrading my Ender-3 with MKS Gen L + 4x TMC2208 in UART + MKS TFT28 + E3D V6 + BLTOUCHv2.0 -- I was under the impression these specific versions of TMC2208 drivers didn't need any additional wiring for UART mode.
All that's needed is to set them up as TMC2208 (without 'STANDALONE') in Marlin fw.
I'd love a clarification on this also.
Ayeayre I can try that, but what pin assignments do I need to set in Marlin? The standard ones for the MKS GEN L board or ?
@@anenkrisI can't say with any confidence. I'll get back to you once i figure it out.
Yeah lol nevermind my first post, sorry but I misinterpreted the features write-up for these specific Makerbase v1.1 boards.
As far as I can tell the UART pin is now connected direct to the chip, negating the need to solder any jumpers to make the connection as with most other versions of these drivers.
So the board itself is technically 'UART-ready' from factory...
But we still need to connect that pin to a TX/RX interface on the MKS Gen L to make use of it.
else; no communication is physically possible.
So, If you've done more than 5mins of research you're more informed than I am and have made and connected the Y cables, and assuming you have double-checked it for continuity etc. then make sure you only use TMC2208 instead of TMC2208_STANDALONE when configuring Marlin (also make sure you download Marlin v1.1.9 or newer)
Also check that M112 is actually enabled in fw (uncomment TMC_DEBUG), but I'm guessing you already knew that..
That's all I can think of atm...
Which isn't all that surprising.
Please let me know if you get it working, I'll do the same once/if I finish.
If you haven't noticed by now, please keep in mind that I am still trying to figure it all out myself and could be completely wrong, but I will humbly accept and appreciate any corrections, additions, tips & tricks from yourself or anyone else that is still reading this for some reason. =)
@@ayeayre Let's do this together!
I connected the uart ready pin to a TX/RX interface on the MKS Gen L. I used the pins as described in Marlin 1.1.9 bugfix.
I also made the necessary changes to the firmware including TMC2208 drivers and enabling M122 debug command.
And yes there is continuity from the stepper pin to both ends of the wires.
Still no communication is happening with the drivers. That's why I am a bit lost.
I could use them as standalone, but prefer not to.
can i use this method also with 2209 ?
hi @t0pa. I need to know the exact driver you are using. That said if the driver pinout for the device is akin to the driver that I'm using here then definitely yes. All you need to do is select "TMC2209_STANDALONE". Checking Marlin's "Configuration_adv.h" reveals that the tmc2209 can be used for sensorless homing which is NOT covered here. Hoping this helps.
Can this exact driver run UART?
Hi @Cody Cato. I haven't tried but I do believe so. You'll need to change "TMC2208_STANDALONE" to "TMC2208" to choose UART mode of operation. Hoping it helps.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 I notice there are no points to solder underneath and 2 NC pins instead of one. All the tutorials i saw has a CLK pin next to the UART.
@Cody Cato. Yea newer version of the driver I believe come prepped for UART mode operation. Do check with the manufacturer of your modules. Refer to the comments from @The Crab to get an idea on how to proceed. I've not tried this myself so I'm not entirely sure.
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 yea I saw his comment. But I dknt have the clk pin or pdn....only NC, Uart, NC
@Cody Cato Any chance you can link the stepper module photo/picture/spec sheet?
Hello please reply . Instead of NC in my tmc 2208 it's CLK and PDN. Will it work or not ,what's the difference
Hi @michael martin. Can you point to where you got this? What version are these?
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 v1.2
@@yemojamakerrefuge898 ok iam going with lv8729 as it's cheaper than tmc 2208. I am noob , so with lv8729 should I do exactly what you did? All the coding and installation in motherboard just like 2208. ??. Or should I change something
@michael martin This tmc2208 v1.2 module has the uart mode enabled out-of-the-box so won't work with this guide...so sorry bro.
@michael martin you'll just need to change 'TMC2208_STANDALONE' to 'LV8729' for the code bit. Other than that, I suppose you're good to go. I don't have this driver so I can't say for sure. All the best bro...Hoping this helps.
Hi Bro. Thanks a lot for your great job. You've mentioned that motors and TMC2208 are hot when printing. Maybe is it caused by too high Vref? I know that you set it to be as close to stock values as possible, but Watterott on their site says "Do not set the drivers to the maximum rated current of the respective stepper motor. A good point to start is half of the rated current." learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/faq/ So maybe it could be worth to run some tests to find optimal Vref values for Ender 3, to get nice print quality without losing steps, and to provide cold drivers / motors at the same time.
Hi @gr0mov. Thanks for sharing the link I haven't seen that before. You are right, I have tried setting the drivers to lower values and did some small prints without any problems. But I haven't been able to explain the reason. It is possible that the rDS typical vs max. values give some room for play but then it is dependent on individual driver. I have been looking to systematically quantify the optimum settings based on data from the specifications but no progress yet.
It could also be the stepping algorithm is much efficient at adapting to the dynamics of the motor characteristics which are due to the reactive nature of the coil windings. Meaning, the high-resolution stealthChop may be better at tracking the current levels thru the motor windings and adapting the voltage-levels for generating the next-step. In other words, the high-resolution would be able to produce much closer values to an ideal sinusoidal current waveform thru the motor coils. This could allow us to drive the motor at lower current values in comparison to drivers like the A4988. Again, this is only my opinion and I have nothing to back-it up with save for reasoning from my LIMITED understanding of h-bridges and electric motors.
So sorry I got carried-away with this topic, but thank you for the suggestion. I have been wondering about this myself to say the least.
Hi @@yemojamakerrefuge898 I've setup all my steppers at 75% of their max rated current (as we know, stock in Ender 3 is about 90%). I can touch heatsinks and keep them in fingers without a problem (I've installed bigger 15x14x13 mm heatsink on Extruder's stepper for better heat disspation). They are warm but not hot. The same happens with motors - they are warm as they were with A4988. To be honest I also wanted to check values about 50% according to Watterott suggestion, but I was affraid of losing steps. Then I found official Trinamic solution to prevent such situation - acceleration values in Marlin (DEFAULT_ACCELERATION, DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION & DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION) should be slighty decreased. More info here: th-cam.com/video/c3v9E1AwDBE/w-d-xo.html Finally I haven't checked that, but at this moment I see no problems with my setup - no overheating, no lost steps, stock acceleration's values are also saved. So my Vref values for TMC2208 assembled by FYSECT (version 1.2) and configured in Standalone / Legacy mode are: 0,63V for XYZ and 0,75V for Extruder.
Hello @gromov. Nice! Thanks for sharing. Appreciate it buddy.