392 Hemi Swapped C10 Ep8! Texas Speed Camshaft and Comp Cams Phaser Lock Kit Install!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- Welcome back to the 392 Hemi Swapped C10 project! In this episode we are CONFIRMED to go to Rocky Mountain Race Week, this means the truck has to get done by June 10th so the thrash to complete it starts now! We are removing the engine and disassembling it to install performance parts like a Texas Speed stage 3 camshaft and Comp Cams phaser lock kit. Will I get it done in time? Will I succeed? Will I fail miserably? You'll have to keep watching to find out!
0:00-0:28 Intro
0:29-1:47 Build Review
1:48-4:53 Rocky Mountain Race Week Registration
4:54-5:16 Happy Anniversary!
5:17-8:11 Cam removal without removing cylinder heads
8:12-11:29 Engine disassembly
11:30-11:46 MDS plugs install
11:47-13:41 Cam Install
13:42-16:05 Cam Phaser lock install
16:06-23:22 Engine reassembly
23:23-24:19 Outro
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So I'm thinking the name for the truck should be "Identity Crisis" Thoughts?
That a pretty good name for this build in my opinion.
Mopawah
SkitzoC10
6-4 Chevy
@@matthewperry7812 😄
SilvoRAMo :)
I like Identity Crisis better though. Need to get a logo where the chevy bowtie blends into the pentastar.
@@The3chordwonder 😄
I’m certainly no expert like yourself but your channel has really helped me figure out the tips and tricks to keep the 5.7 hemi in my Ram 1500 Classic going. Great Job!
That's exactly what I want to hear! 👍
Excited to see this baby finished !
Thanks for watching Ryan!
You're the Man,you showed exactly what I've been asking you about, removing the cam without removing the heads👍
💪
This is a really cool build and I'm excited to see how it turns out. Based on the spec sheet you showed on the Stage 3 cam, it's going to have some fairly noticeable lope at idle and make great power.
One thing I noticed was that you said it was a '17 6.4L truck engine but that the valve springs were stronger than the 5.7L. The springs on the 6.4L truck engine should be the same as the 5.7L engines, for 2017 thats 68080909AB. The valve springs that are stronger are in the 6.4L car & SUV engines (same springs in the Hellcat engines), the part number for those is 05037382BC.
The springs you have in there aren't exactly weak, I think the factory RPM limiter is around 5800 RPM. But if you really plan on testing the endurance of the build at Rocky Mt. Race Week, I'd get stiffer ones.
Congrats on the anniversary and best of luck with all your projects!
Mike you are a lifesaver sir! I had no idea about the valve springs so thank you for bringing that to my attention 👍 I'm definitely going to install the uprated ones, and I'll post an update to the channel when I do so. 💪
Absolutely! I'm always happy to help and share info on the newer Mopars.
I look forward to seeing you get it hooked up to the Holley EFI system. I've heard good things about it and you've mentioned that you wanted to get more involved with tuning software.
Happy anniversary 😊
What a great video - really awesome production quality. I'm midway in my own 2006 300C 5.7L project which is how I found your channel. We (my machinist buddy Keith and I) have bored and stroked the 5.7 to 6.4 with new pistons, crank, cam and an Edelbrock/Eaton supercharger. I was looking for suspension and exhaust ideas and so I'm stealing your idea of adding the Mopar Stage 1 1" lowering springs and the SLP cat-back exhaust system. Thank you! Now I need to find better brakes to slow this thing down. TH-cam is wonderful for us gearheads, but it's so amazing and helpful watching a trained, expert Mopar guy like you doing this stuff. My dad was a 35-year Chrysler mechanic and I learned a lot from him on the slant 6 (I was a kid!) and earlier Hemis, and now even more from you on the Gen III Hemi. My buddy Keith is an LS specialist, so I can't show him what you are doing with a Hemi in a C10 (!), but what a great idea. Maybe a 6.4L Hemi in an old Power Wagon could be your next project? That would be amazing!
Phil your project sounds amazing! I definitely would have liked to build something special with my 300 like you are with yours, but it was basically a flip car. I need to see some pictures when you're done! And I appreciate you watching!
Love it and can't wait to see the final results :D
Thanks for watching Chad!
Hell of a build. I cant wait for future content an to for you to be able to race it. Congratulations on getting a spot.
Thanks man, The time crunch is real! 😄
Happy anniversary,
Well that went way to smoothly. Excellent!
Keep in mind I'm the one editing the videos, I can make it look as smooth as I want! 😂
enjoying this build immensely! great job
Thanks for watching man!
Bro that engine is sweeeeet! I’ll be loving all that C10 action the next couple months lol
Thanks for following along!
The headers you made look great!!
Awesome job 🤘🤘
Thanks dude, Appreciate you watching this series as well!
Nice fabrication job can’t wait to see it finished
Thanks for watching Robbie!
You made my night with the sproing effect of the phaser 😅great video
😄 Can't help myself sometimes...
I had a slight problem with my cam phaser. I sprung it... Only one left in the country ( so I was told) is now in and started reassembly today. Been a long few days but coming out well. Thank you for the guidance and encouragement.
Bummer! 😬 Glad you're getting it back together though!
You made it look super easy man love your videos they make me work with confidence
Exactly what I want to hear! 💪
You the truth!! Keep these coming!!
Appreciate you watching!
Truck came out amazing.great video buddy..
Thanks man I appreciate it!
OK....This is a cool project. I think it is really cool how overall it is going together fairly easily. Now this is not to say that it hasn't had its challenges but they seem minor from what I have seen on other builds. This truck is going to be so cool at RMRW. Keep the videos coming! (Happy belated anniversary!)
Appreciate it man! I hope I get it done in time 😬😄
I put one in my 2013 300S, stock bottom ran 12.2lbs boost for 2 yrs. 4XX stroker build now
Great video
Thanks Man!
2 months to get it ready piece of cake.. You can do it. Looking good
Piece of cake? You come help! 😄
Looks like you’re missing some of the dipstick tube were it goes into the block. Still have the o-ring though so you should be good! Great build, very much enjoy following it.
Shhhh, you weren't supposed to know that 😄
I like where this build is going. Should pull strong 100% of the time. I'm hoping you chose right on the lifters.
We'll see! Thanks for watching Richard 👍
I'm super jealous that you are doing RMRW. Hot Rod Drag Week and RMRW have been my obsession the last few years. I have an 11 second NA drag Bug that I have been working on getting back on the road simply for these events. I always thought a truck or a wagon is the ideal vehicle for these simply because of all the storage space. I would have to pull a trailer.
Man I hope I get to do it! The truck is obviously the goal, but I do have the challenger as a backup vehicle. But really what fun would that be to take a mostly stock vehicle? Ah well....
@@ReignitedAuto I agree, it would be SMARTER to take my Charger, but who wants to see a 14 second Charger? The bug would be cool.
I love your videos bro it’s amazing project
I advise you to use sikky intake manifold gasket
It will reduce the temperature
I'll check into it 👍
"Lone Star Hemi Chevy.".. Needs some swept back Texas Long horns mounted or painted on it...
😄
I'm a big c10 fan, so this is going to be cool to see. I wonder if they mistook a broken exhaust manifold bolt as the dreaded hemi tick? That would be a awfully expensive mistake though. One of the things I did when I built mine was to pre-oil the engine. I bought a cheap Chevy 350 oil pump (old school distributor-drive style), then cut some threads where the pickup goes, installed some barbed fittings, and called it done. Used a NPT/bung fitting in the holes by the oil filter, dropped the pickup hose in a 5qt jug of new oil, and hooked up a drill to the stub where the distributor shaft would go. Worked really good, albeit I wasn't in the car, so I couldn't verify the pressure gauge going up.
Those headers are awesome. You could even fit a wrench in between the block and the tubes to bolt them down, bravo on that.
If you don't get the lope you want from the cam alone, you can alter some of the idle RPM correction settings in the tune (Basically make the corrections "overreact"), and it will lope really good. I think melling makes a high performance oil pump if you are interested. I just took my stock one and shimmed the pressure regulator spring. Harder to do than it sounds, need to drive the pin holding the cup in (easy) but then figure out how to get the cup plug out. I honestly can't remember how I got mine out, I might have used a screwdriver and a few raps with a smaller hammer.
Great video as always. What kind of exhaust are you going to run? I put an X-Pipe on my hemi and it sounds very smooth - I don't like it. I would recommend an H pipe instead. I might even re-do mine because it is so smooth. I ran dynomax knockoffs and in retrospect, I wish I would have went with chambered mufflers.
Tucker that is very interesting because I'm building the exhaust for this thing next week and I was absolutely planning on putting an x-pipe in it. Now you've got me wondering. I think once I get the vehicle in the air and see what sort of space restrictions I've got then I can make a better decision. Appreciate the kind words and I'm glad you're following this series as well!
@@ReignitedAuto Yeah I'll be honest, I'd clamp up an X-Pipe first (Before you weld) and see if you like it. At high RPM's the X-pipe sounds pretty good, but anything less than about 4k sounds really bad (to me). Very, very mellow. As in no chop at all, it could just as much have the sonic signature of a nissan VQ engine. My x-pipe is one of the combo x-pipe mufflers, basically a knock off magnaflow. I have mine mounted right behind the trans crossmember in the RAM. Running 2.5" exhaust the entire way from the back of the stock cats through the tailpipes.
@@The3chordwonder 🤔👍
LETS TALK ABOUT THAT KAWI IN THE BACKGROUND!!!
Check my years old videos on the channel, you'll see I'm a motorcycle nut 😄 Unfortunately bikes just don't do as well on TH-cam as cars, the viewership is much smaller. But I'm still a bike guy at heart 👍
I know your working on the 10mg build so no hurry but I beening looking around an cant find a for sure answer an figured you might could help me out. The subframe front an rear on the 05-08 charger , magnum , an 300 are the same. Meaning they in Bolt up to any model. I know the motor mounts will prob be different locations depending on v6 or v8. Thanks in advance.
Awesome video man can't wait to see it done ! .. If that 6.4 cam fits a 6.1 I'll take it lol
Unfortunately it will not fit your block 😕
@@ReignitedAuto hey any chance you got the spring compressor part number you use for the hemi valves springs
@@moparlif3528 do you want the on car style, or the heads off style?
@@ReignitedAuto heads off I remember it was a c clamp style not sure size I would need and would the coolant need to be drained for heads coming off?
@@moparlif3528 yep, coolant needs to be drained, and the c-clamp style is available from most aftermarket parts stores, its actually adjustable to fit a variety of vehicles so that's nice 👍
The lobe seperation isn't tight enough to have a good lope at idle, but that's just my experience. The only cams I've ever ran (small block Fords) that had a good lope were around 108 to 110 lobe seperation.
One of these days I'll actually dive into cam specs so I know more about them 👍
I wish I could have you do the cam swap in my 2010 Ram 1500
would you be interested in getting rid of the old cam and lifters i need a set for a 2013 5.7 i think it will work
Ok now this is weird, first saw your video on a 392 cam, which I have, and now a stage 3 TSP cam? I'm running that in my other car lol
Great minds think alike 😎 😄
Love your videos and have a few questions.
1. If you disable MDS do you have to have the PCM tuned?
2. If on the 6.4 you drive in sport or track mode is MDS disabled?
Correct on both accounts 👍
2014 BGE had wrist pin issues
I have a dodge ram 1500 with 5.7 hemi. it's been a week since it repairs his lifter and camshaft has 175 thousand miles. what oil do you recommend for the engine?
You are beast can you do video how to change stock pistons to a forged rods and pistons but the big question would be if I am just replacing the pistons and rods
Does the crank shaft have to be balanced to them ?
I'd love to do a video like that, unfortunately I'm funding the entire channel myself currently so the budget will not allow it 😄 That being said, no you shouldn't have to have the crankshaft balanced. Unless of course you are planning to rev the engine past 7000rpm, then you might want to think about it!
Could you post where you got the MDS block off caps please!!!
Straight from the dealership, they are fairly cheap, just buy the block off plugs for a manual trans equipped vehicle. 👍
What year is the BGE?
Do you typically clean the carbon on the piston heads when you have it disassembled? If so, what do you use?
Unless it's really bad I generally don't. If you end up using a cleaner on the carbon it turns into a goo that's almost more of a pain to deal with. On this engine I just used compressed air to get rid of the loose chunks, and I'll wipe the pistons with a clean shop towel to clean it up a bit, but more than that isn't really necessary. 👍
what size are your pushrods for the texas speed cam?
6.775" and 8.075" both 3/8" diameter 👍
Hi have a question and it seem like your the only one that could give me a correct answer. I have a 2018 jeep srt and I'm looking to upgrade my cam but I'm still under warranty and don't want anyone to know I've fiddled with the engine. I can't find any info on the stock cam of the jeep I think I found one but wasn't sure 221/225? So it's higher than a stage 1 witch is 218/228 the stage2 is 222/230 . Is it worth me changing the cams when the stock cam is right in between the 2? And if I change to the stage 2 cam would it be that noticeable to the dealer if I have to get serviced? To me I don't think it's much of a difference between the 3🤔 (don't really like the chop of the bigger cams) thanks for the help!.. I can hear the stock cam as it is
Are you using a service manual on this 392? Or do you have all those torque specs memorized?
I have a '15 regular cab 2500 4x4 with the 392 and have been thinking of doing away with the MDS, sure doesnt look too bad to delete that.
Service manual for sure, remember if you do decide to delete the MDS you'll need to replace the lifters as well 👍
When replacing the 8 non mds lifters, can you use the stock yokes? or are they different
I actually found out fairly recently that they are actually different. However if you're purchasing the lifters new they generally come with the yokes 👍
Will turning off mds and EGR valve cause a loss of 5 miles per gallon of gas . Anyone ?
ggod tips
Thanks Glen, I appreciate you watching!
How did you know if you had any valve clearance issues? This is like the main reason I have taken on the job of installing my camshaft on my charger. I fear valve clearance issues 😅
Just spinning the engine over manually with a breaker bar about 4-5 times, you'll feel if any of the valves tap a piston. I wasn't expecting any issues, it's just a good check before you put it all back together. 👍
Are the headers ceramic coated? I'm kinda affraid for those valve covers. I would perhaps make some heat shields?
Just stainless, and I wondered about it as well. There's about an inch clearance with the closest tube, and the metal is only 16ga so it shouldn't retain too much heat. I'm thinking it'll be ok, but there's a chance I could prematurely cook a valve cover gasket. We'll see! Thanks for watching!
Maybe do a few inches of heat wrap?
@@joeperry8518 i thought about it, but man it just kills the look 😄
Has the cam shaft been sold yet?
Sorry but I was basically joking, I don't want the liability of selling used parts unfortunately. Thanks for watching though!
I have an 04 Ram 1500 single cab short bed with a 5.7 Hemi in it. Are the later eagle heads able to be swapped onto my older engine or no? I'd like to do a cam swap and some headwork sometime in the future and figured it'd be cheaper to put the eagle heads on it if possible.
Technically yes, but the intake ports are completely different so you'd have to update to a new style intake manifold, also the pushrod length is different as well.
@@ReignitedAuto would that also apply to the 6.1?
@@moparlif3528 that's correct, although with the 6.1 i think the money would be better spent on a cam or some sort of forced induction 👍
@@ReignitedAuto thanks ! Always got the good info 🙌🏼
Do you need a machine shop if you just get a forged Piston and rod kit from MMX in a 2019 Hemi Gen5
Nope, if you get a standard piston size and standard rod bearing size it'll just bolt right together. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto
I got two mopars to cam
19 5.7 ram
20 chally 6.4
I am pretty good with tools and have air tools
Are you able to virtually help
I will compensate you for ur time
@@rssdefensecorp8756 if you haven't had a chance to watch my budget challenger build it covers the process in more detail! But also if you've got specific questions you can message me through Instagram @reignited.tx I'll help if I can 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I just did thanks
Purpose of locking the phaser?
With the higher lift of the aftermarket cam there is potential for the valve to smack the top of the piston if it advances or retards the cam timing too much. 👍
So odd to see a hemi between the frame rails of a c-10 usually it's an LS, 383, or big block chevy
Thanks for the video its awesome content
Thanks man! It's funny I thought I had all this room to play with, then I put the engine in there 😄
Could you please tell me the torque specs for the intake manifold bolts. I'm from Iraq.
9ft lbs 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Thank you very much Sir
6.1 or 6.4 and why?
6.4 because more displacement is always better. The 6.1 is nice due to its simplicity though.
Check the bottom end out it may have been mis-diagnosed. I know you want to make it to rocky mountain race week and I'd hate to see you get to the point of firing it up and it have rod knock. I've seen other techs mistake manifold leaks for lifter peck too just another possibility.
Plasti-gauge never lies just check your rod and main clearances and your good to go
Too right my man, I did actually see the oil pan taken off when this engine was replaced and there wasn't any metal in it. Unfortunately the engine is already back in the truck, but I definitely hear what you are saying. Will I regret not checking it, most likely 😂
Check your old push rods and see if the tips are worn. Also check the MDS lifters you took out to see if the plunger is collapsed...had that happen before and is hard to catch if you’re not looking close...pretty sure you know all this though.
@@MongrelsGarage I'll take a peek, never hurts to check!
Call me crazy, but did I see oval exhaust ports on driver side and "D" shaped exhaust on the passenger side?
Nope, they are the same 👍
Ok my mistake....
Hello my friend I have a 2012 Durango R/T and if your 6.4 cam is still available I would like to purchase it off you. Wayne
Unfortunately I'm not comfortable selling used parts like that, but thank you foryour interest!
@@ReignitedAuto Np my friend I ended up getting ordering one today from Modern Muscle Xtreme