Thank you for saying. I do as well, although i was thinking about how to clean them up a bit. I may not and just leave as is. Cheers, sorry for the delay in replying!
Hi Simon. My 40 years experience here in NZ with a carvel constructed vessel is to do the following: 1. Treat the bare above waterline timbers with International Everdure. It is an ultra low viscosity two pack epoxy resin solution which is as thin as water and easy to apply with brush or roller. Used as a primer for timber surfaces prior to applying a wide range of paint finishes. Also used as an aid to sealing and densifying soft timber type surfaces to reduce moisture uptake. * Easy application * Hard tough cured film * Simple 1:1 mixing ratio for easy measurement of components. That will seal the timbers which varnish wont as varnish is porous. Then put your varnish on top. Mahogany hates fresh water (rain water above waterline) and is prone to rotting and turning black. Everdure will prevent that. You should sand off your varnish next season back to bare timber then Everdure it THEN apply your 6 to 10 coats of varnish. She is worth it because she looks good with the varnish but the varnish wont stop water penetration and will cause you a huge amount of work every 2 or so years. 2. Put her back in the water and let her "takeup" with full water and fuel tanks etc. She will take about 6 months to take up water in the planks and she will settle lower in the water. Then next season pull her out and note the waterline. Then tack a thin battern board along the waterline and run a hand saw along the top of the battern board to score a line which will give you a permanent waterline for the boot top line. 3. Use a product called Penetrol. You add it to your paint and varnish and it makes your coating flow on like silk and leaves no brush marks. A truely great product which I use in my varnish. All super yachts use it to give the best finish you can imagine. Penetrol stops paint form peeling, cracking, and flaking; increases paint flow and levelling. With a penetrating power 3 times that of water it goes deep into the substrate and forms a strong bond for subsequent topcoats Seals out air and moisture. DON'T mix all those random oils with your primer paint. If were meant to be that way the manufacturers would have added it! There ends the Sermon. I hope you look into what i have suggested. Regards.
Thanks very much for the great advice Alan, really appreciated. Since i 'sealed' her for protection i have decided to bring her down to another yard closer to home & use another boat to learn to sail so that in the meantime i can focus on Susanna in a more thorough way - All the advice you just gave is going to be very helpful so thanks once again! It's been the case a bit where the videos come out and the work is already done - so that a lot of the good advice i get is too late. Fortunately in this case i can actually use it! :) So again, much appreciated. Cheers!
Hi Alan. I too am in Nz and own a old wooden boat. Does the Penetrol help the varnish last longer? We are back to varnishing as it cracked and peeled on any joins in the timber etc. does Penetrol help in this regard? Would you coat the timber in it first as a primer then varnish on top with it mixed in? Would that work over Everdue? Totally agree over the use of Everdue😀
Yes, that's definitely a good idea. I'll certainly be pre-soaking her before i put het back in the water but may not whilst she's on the hard as i'm concerned about her expanding and contracting as it will be a little while before she goes back in. Saying that it may not be a bad idea so i am thinking about it... Cheers!
Just goes to show what a little bit of love does to an ole wooden boat. She's looking beautiful already. That should protect her from the environment until you can really repair her properly. Looking forward to what's you've got planned thus far she's looking the part. Can't wait to see her in all her glory when she's all said and done. cheers
TOP TIP: Put a hose with garden misters inside the hull while she is on the hard. This will start the process of expanding those inner seem edges before you put her in the water and have to run a bilge pump for six days so she does not sink.
Thanks for the tip 👍 Yeah, i'll certainly be doing some pre-soaking before i put her back in the water. She's been dry for awhile now and so i'm pretty concerned about her taking up too quickly. That's a good call, cheers!
Wow, I'm guessing you must be a professional painter by that cutting in. When it goes back in the water, and the seams take on water before it plims up. You can make a wooden box (shoe box size) on a pole, with a sliding lid with a piece of string to open. Fill it with sawdust and open it under water next to the biggest gaps, the suction will pull the sawdust into the seams and help slow the flow.
I had no idea that paint/primer like that even existed. I can't believe I haven't seen it y?? That's like the greatest idea ever. Aluminum paint?? That's so cool. She sure is looking great.
Yeah, it's great stuff, and it looks really cool when it's on too - nice and shiney! :) Shame it gets painted over in the end. It's good to use on hardwoods as it helps stop the oils coming out and is pretty waterproof. & thanks for the compliment! Cheers.
Hi Simon. Shaving Suzanna. She looks amazing 👏 and can’t wait to see more. Episode 1 cracked me up with getting her wet🤣 Exciting times ahead buddy. We’ll have to get you a new captains hat for your maiden voyage. ⛵️ 🥂. 😊 good luck 😉
Interesting. I know the background music from the 'Jumping Off A Cliff' channel. That channel has the same laid-back atmosphere, although somewhat different subject. Highly recommended though.
Thanks mate, and yes, very near the end of the restoration the gaps will be 'Caulked' - basically stuffed with cotton kind of string. When the boat is in the water she will then 'take up' (swell) and so the gaps all seal water tight.
What a charming little boat - thank you for sharing! I think you need to be careful not to caulk her to hard, as she is very dry, but I guess you allready know that ;-)
Thank you! And yes, although the advice is gratefully received. I am concerned about how hard to caulk her as she's so dry, so i'm happy to hear any thoughts on it! Cheers!
Thank you :) - and yes, i do still need to caulk her. This varnish etc on the hull is just to protect the wood whilst she is restored. I will caulk the timbers a few weeks before she goes back in the water....so awhile yet!
Not a dumb question... The varnish i put on is to essentially protect the boat while she is restored. There will be quite a few more coats put on later (when she is caulked etc...) And in fact a fair amount of what varnish has been put on will likely be sanded back again! Leaving the wood 'raw' would have left it to the elements, sun bleaching etc as well as any staining from spilt coffee and anything else! Cheers for being a new subscriber! 👍
I worked as a Theatre carpenter for a number of years and so know how to use the tools and make different things. i am generally 'pretty handy' - but boats are quite unforgiving unlike Theatre sets! I suppose with that background when i read or watch something about boat construction i understand the concepts quite well....
Basically they will be 'Caulked' which is cotton similar to string, which is packed into the gaps, then 'payed' with putty over the top. The planks themselves will 'swell' quite a bit too - so then all together it makes the boat 'tight' and watertight. Hopefully! :))
That's a cool idea, particularly the plimsoll line, that'd look really good! :) It'd take some working out but would be fun to do. This would be towards the end of the project, got to get the saws and chisels out first! 😬
@@savingsusanna Wrong end of the project, huh? Yeah, I have a big bus project that is all structural welding at the moment but can't help setting out the galley fixtures and having a brew in there with tea chests and planks for furniture etc. Dreaming's part of the fun!
@@dancarter482 Oh yes absolutely! Dreaming is definitely part of the fun! Good luck with your bus project, they're great when they're done, and a great project to do!
The caulking is yet to be done. It will all be removed, along with a lot of the splines, and be re-caulked about a month before she goes back in the water. The hull has been essentially 'protected' from drying out or bleaching anymore with the varnish and primer while i restore the boat properly.
Hmmm... At the time i wanted to protect the hull from more drying out... I did look into primers and Aluminium seemed fine.... Although from what you're saying it may not be. Alas it's done now! Also the whole 'Galvanic' thing was pretty new to me and i didn't really have my head wrapped around it. I still don't entirely! Hopefully it won't cause too much of a problem 🤞 But now i'll certainly keep an eye out. Cheers!
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 84 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องศึก vs เมืองไทย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3kuzsAIDf1c/mqdefault.jpg)
I love the look of the rivets withe the varnish . SO much more character than paint .
Thank you for saying. I do as well, although i was thinking about how to clean them up a bit. I may not and just leave as is. Cheers, sorry for the delay in replying!
Awlwood is an amazing varnish alternative. She looks amazing skipper!
Thanks mate! :) I went with 'traditional' in the end for the exterior wood. I know where i am with that i decided!
She looks bloody lovely. Great project boat.
Cheers! And yes, i think she is a great project - i love the way she looks!
Hi Simon. My 40 years experience here in NZ with a carvel constructed vessel is to do the following:
1. Treat the bare above waterline timbers with International Everdure.
It is an ultra low viscosity two pack epoxy resin solution which is as thin as water and easy to apply with brush or roller.
Used as a primer for timber surfaces prior to applying a wide range of paint finishes.
Also used as an aid to sealing and densifying soft timber type surfaces to reduce moisture uptake.
* Easy application
* Hard tough cured film
* Simple 1:1 mixing ratio for easy measurement of components.
That will seal the timbers which varnish wont as varnish is porous. Then put your varnish on top.
Mahogany hates fresh water (rain water above waterline) and is prone to rotting and turning black. Everdure will prevent that.
You should sand off your varnish next season back to bare timber then Everdure it THEN apply your 6 to 10 coats of varnish.
She is worth it because she looks good with the varnish but the varnish wont stop water penetration and will cause you a huge amount of work every 2 or so years.
2. Put her back in the water and let her "takeup" with full water and fuel tanks etc. She will take about 6 months to take up water in the planks and she will settle lower in the water. Then next season pull her out and note the waterline.
Then tack a thin battern board along the waterline and run a hand saw along the top of the battern board to score a line which will give you a permanent waterline for the boot top line.
3. Use a product called Penetrol. You add it to your paint and varnish and it makes your coating flow on like silk and leaves no brush marks. A truely great product which I use in my varnish. All super yachts use it to give the best finish you can imagine.
Penetrol stops paint form peeling, cracking, and flaking; increases paint flow and levelling.
With a penetrating power 3 times that of water it goes deep into the substrate and forms a strong bond for subsequent topcoats
Seals out air and moisture.
DON'T mix all those random oils with your primer paint. If were meant to be that way the manufacturers would have added it!
There ends the Sermon. I hope you look into what i have suggested. Regards.
Thanks very much for the great advice Alan, really appreciated. Since i 'sealed' her for protection i have decided to bring her down to another yard closer to home & use another boat to learn to sail so that in the meantime i can focus on Susanna in a more thorough way - All the advice you just gave is going to be very helpful so thanks once again! It's been the case a bit where the videos come out and the work is already done - so that a lot of the good advice i get is too late. Fortunately in this case i can actually use it! :) So again, much appreciated. Cheers!
Hi Alan. I too am in Nz and own a old wooden boat.
Does the Penetrol help the varnish last longer? We are back to varnishing as it cracked and peeled on any joins in the timber etc. does Penetrol help in this regard? Would you coat the timber in it first as a primer then varnish on top with it mixed in? Would that work over Everdue?
Totally agree over the use of Everdue😀
Wow that sure gives ya a glimpse of how sweet she'll look when she's all finished ..well done ..Cheers
The misters inside good idea also will help with keeping new paint from Cracking from Shrinking boards as she Dries out on the Hard
Yes, that's definitely a good idea. I'll certainly be pre-soaking her before i put het back in the water but may not whilst she's on the hard as i'm concerned about her expanding and contracting as it will be a little while before she goes back in. Saying that it may not be a bad idea so i am thinking about it... Cheers!
Just goes to show what a little bit of love does to an ole wooden boat. She's looking beautiful already. That should protect her from the environment until you can really repair her properly. Looking forward to what's you've got planned thus far she's looking the part. Can't wait to see her in all her glory when she's all said and done. cheers
Cheers! Appreciated! - And yes, hopefully i'll do her justice and she'll be back to being solid and beautiful in the end. Can't wait either! :)
She is looking lovely, you must be very proud.
Thank you!, and yes, i think i'll be more proud as the project moves along, particularly when the more 'major' carpentry on the hull is done.
TOP TIP: Put a hose with garden misters inside the hull while she is on the hard. This will start the process of expanding those inner seem edges before you put her in the water and have to run a bilge pump for six days so she does not sink.
Thanks for the tip 👍 Yeah, i'll certainly be doing some pre-soaking before i put her back in the water. She's been dry for awhile now and so i'm pretty concerned about her taking up too quickly. That's a good call, cheers!
Just found your channel and loving it. Looking forward to being on the journey with you. Regards Dave from Oz.
Ah cheers! Appreciated! :)
Wow, I'm guessing you must be a professional painter by that cutting in.
When it goes back in the water, and the seams take on water before it plims up. You can make a wooden box (shoe box size) on a pole, with a sliding lid with a piece of string to open. Fill it with sawdust and open it under water next to the biggest gaps, the suction will pull the sawdust into the seams and help slow the flow.
Haha nicely spotted! :) Yes, i am. Appreciate your noticing! 😅 And that's a brilliant tip, thanks very much! 👍👌
I had no idea that paint/primer like that even existed. I can't believe I haven't seen it y?? That's like the greatest idea ever. Aluminum paint?? That's so cool. She sure is looking great.
Yeah, it's great stuff, and it looks really cool when it's on too - nice and shiney! :) Shame it gets painted over in the end. It's good to use on hardwoods as it helps stop the oils coming out and is pretty waterproof. & thanks for the compliment! Cheers.
Hi Simon. Shaving Suzanna. She looks amazing 👏 and can’t wait to see more. Episode 1 cracked me up with getting her wet🤣 Exciting times ahead buddy. We’ll have to get you a new captains hat for your maiden voyage. ⛵️ 🥂. 😊 good luck 😉
Haha cheers! Exciting times indeed! 😁🤟
You should be happy, looks marvelous!!!
Thank you!
Loving the country vibes, yeehaw!
Looking great what a beautiful boat
Thank you!
Interesting. I know the background music from the 'Jumping Off A Cliff' channel. That channel has the same laid-back atmosphere, although somewhat different subject. Highly recommended though.
Ah, cheers - i'll take a look at that channel 👍
Yes, i see what you mean. An interesting channel too! Cheers!
Good stuff mate..... Are you going to close those gaps in the boards
Thanks mate, and yes, very near the end of the restoration the gaps will be 'Caulked' - basically stuffed with cotton kind of string. When the boat is in the water she will then 'take up' (swell) and so the gaps all seal water tight.
What a charming little boat - thank you for sharing! I think you need to be careful not to caulk her to hard, as she is very dry, but I guess you allready know that ;-)
Thank you! And yes, although the advice is gratefully received. I am concerned about how hard to caulk her as she's so dry, so i'm happy to hear any thoughts on it! Cheers!
Are you a Painter & decorator by trade. The cut-in looked effortless
Yes i am - well spotted! :)
yes buddy! no mucking around
Haha, cheers! :)
Looks like new wood as it is a wooden boat have or you need to recaulk it
Thank you :) - and yes, i do still need to caulk her. This varnish etc on the hull is just to protect the wood whilst she is restored. I will caulk the timbers a few weeks before she goes back in the water....so awhile yet!
@@savingsusanna nice one
This might be a dumb question (new subscriber here) Shouldn't the entire hull be caulked before any finish goes on?
Not a dumb question... The varnish i put on is to essentially protect the boat while she is restored. There will be quite a few more coats put on later (when she is caulked etc...) And in fact a fair amount of what varnish has been put on will likely be sanded back again! Leaving the wood 'raw' would have left it to the elements, sun bleaching etc as well as any staining from spilt coffee and anything else! Cheers for being a new subscriber! 👍
You say "I'm neither a boat builder nor a sailor". But you clearly know your stuff. How's that?
I worked as a Theatre carpenter for a number of years and so know how to use the tools and make different things. i am generally 'pretty handy' - but boats are quite unforgiving unlike Theatre sets! I suppose with that background when i read or watch something about boat construction i understand the concepts quite well....
How those large and many crevices between the planks can be filled?
Tinny wooden strips ?
Epoxy putty?
Covering the entire hull with gass and epoxy?
Basically they will be 'Caulked' which is cotton similar to string, which is packed into the gaps, then 'payed' with putty over the top. The planks themselves will 'swell' quite a bit too - so then all together it makes the boat 'tight' and watertight. Hopefully! :))
😃😃😃😃
Great Channel... SUBD!
You could have a boot-stripe one side and a plimsoll line the other - one fully laden and the other lightship.
That's a cool idea, particularly the plimsoll line, that'd look really good! :) It'd take some working out but would be fun to do. This would be towards the end of the project, got to get the saws and chisels out first! 😬
@@savingsusanna Wrong end of the project, huh? Yeah, I have a big bus project that is all structural welding at the moment but can't help setting out the galley fixtures and having a brew in there with tea chests and planks for furniture etc. Dreaming's part of the fun!
@@dancarter482 Oh yes absolutely! Dreaming is definitely part of the fun! Good luck with your bus project, they're great when they're done, and a great project to do!
What about the missing caulking which you can nicely see at 1:20?
The caulking is yet to be done. It will all be removed, along with a lot of the splines, and be re-caulked about a month before she goes back in the water. The hull has been essentially 'protected' from drying out or bleaching anymore with the varnish and primer while i restore the boat properly.
@@savingsusanna Thanks for the answer! Good luck!
Why aluminum primer? It's near rock bottom on the galvanic scale. Any copper or bronze or red lead antifouling will very much disagree with it.
Hmmm... At the time i wanted to protect the hull from more drying out... I did look into primers and Aluminium seemed fine.... Although from what you're saying it may not be. Alas it's done now! Also the whole 'Galvanic' thing was pretty new to me and i didn't really have my head wrapped around it. I still don't entirely! Hopefully it won't cause too much of a problem 🤞 But now i'll certainly keep an eye out. Cheers!
Purty
👍👌
Just don't cover it with fiberglass or wedges in the seams like some idiots do!
Don't worry i'll certainly not be doing that! :)