Unbelievable quality. It is really a joy to find someone with this wealth of knowledge and so generous to share it with us. Thank you very much for your wonderful videos. Best regards from Brazil.
Thank you for the helpful videos. They are very well done. I followed this video with no issues, and discovered mine was only using 96mm. After following this tutorial it is now perfect at 100mm. Thank you, again.
Great to hear! P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
This video helped me so much. It took me a while to figure out how to connect my laptop to my Monoprice MP10 and make the appropriate changes. E steps for extruder and Y axis were off. This video helped me understand and how to fix the extruder which was off by 17 and y axis off by 8. Printing out perfect squares now. Thank you.
Important thing to know that you need to calibrate extruder steps to extrude exact amount of filament. You will need to calibrate *flow* separately in your slicer. For my Ender 3 and given ABS filament I use 91% flow to make walls exactly match the model.
This took me a long time to realize how great this video is. I have watched it about 5 to 10 times over a couple of weeks. I'm building my second Ender 5, while I use my original one to print parts for it. As I'm building the new one, I;m upgrading parts, new Micro Swiss hot end, EZR Struder by SeeMeCNC and the new TH3D EZBoard Lite which should arrive within a week. This video really has helped in understanding how to adjust settings and to start to understand the Marlin firmware - gcode.
Thanks Doc, fairly easy video to grasp, I bought a Bondtech LGX and would tell it to spit out 30mm and be lucky to get 10mm out so I am hoping this works.
All of your videos are excellent! You are always cheerful, polite, and very concise. Thank you for all your great work, we always learn something together :)
Hi DrVax, Thanks for a very informative and extremely clear "How To Video". I am now confident I can follow your instructions and perform an E-Step calibration on my own 3D printer. Cheers.
Dr. Vax Thanks for the great video, I like how detailed you make your presentations. I'm having trouble with my Ender5 Pro printer. I cannot get my filament to stick to the bed so I thought I'd start with an extruder cal. When I calibrated my extruder, on attempt one, it only used 5 cm of filament, less than half of what is expected. So, what I did and before I changed any settings, I then removed the blue hose at the nozzle end and fed out a cm or two of filament and placed a mark on the filament close to the end of the blue hose. I performed your calibration, steps G1 E100 F100 etc. and measured how much filament came out of the blue hose. It measured exactly 10 cm, so the extruder spit out 10cm of filament. When I perform a filament change the filament pours out of the nozzle so there is no plugging going on. After putting it all back together, I tried printing a small test pattern and everything else for that matter. I cannot get the filament to stick to the bed, and I tried everything under the sun. 3 different bed plates, tape, glue hairspray. I increased the bed temp decreased the bed temp, increased then decreased the nozzle temp. I tried 3 different profiles. I have an EZBAL bed leveler so I was able to adjust the nozzle height up and down, but it still won't stick. I dried my filament in a dehydrator and changed filaments. It seems the filament is not spewing out like it should when printing. It looks very thin and hairy looking. Yet again I performed a filament change and it spewed out in a nice spaghetti like form. Any thoughts. Why would the extruder extrude 5 cm one way and 10cm the other way? Very Confused
Thanks. My approach is to address questions I had when I started with 3d printing and to try and answer any questions from my viewers. Thanks for watching.
need to tell you this. You are so sweet! omg I watch like 5 other videos and all was ... omg,... what im doing! you are the only one that explains slow, and clear! thank you
Great video. I had to replace my hotend assembly which has a 4mm nozzle. The orginal hotend had a 6mm nozzle. Since im now using a 4mm nozzle, do i need to perform an extruder calibration?
If possible... the longer the test piece / length of filament used the more accurate the final setting to regulate over or under extrusion. Good videos as usual. Thanks
I have 17 "how to calibrate extruder" videos lined up in new tabs and have been going through them, but all assume some part of the knowledge, and rarely a clear demonstration is given, either on the printer or the host software. This is as clear as it gets! Thank you. I feel confident to do it with my own printer now. Question, some people have advised to take the 'hot end' off to calibrate e-steps. I don't think is required but is this something people do? and one more question, some people have also advised that my particular printer has 'eprom' turned off? so that it won't store the settings when I turn the printer off? Have you heard of this? Again, thank you for making a really clear video that explained everything really well. Other video's just lost me when something wasn't explained well or they assume you are familiar with a step so they skip explaining it altogether...
I've seen others say to extrude the filament through the nozzle for "real results", and others say disconnect the bowden tube and measure it coming out of the extruder motor, before the hotend. If you think about it, this is silly because, either way the filament is being fed by the motor which has no idea what the filament does, it just spins a mathematical amount of rotations based on the length of filament you told it to feed through. You can remove the bowden tube and avaoid heating the hotend, or you can leave the bowden tube and heat up the hotend, both ways are equal because the motor will spin the same amount to feed the filament through
Hey I've heard that some printers won't let you save to the eeprom.. Alternatively you can can add that gcode to your starting gcode in the slicer and it'll just do it each time for you.
You are absolutely correct. You can also use the slicer extruder multiplier which is called Flow under Material in Cura, Extruder Multiplier in Slic3r, and Extrusion Multiplier in Simpify3d.
thank you, this video helped me fix my cheap anet a6 since i changed my extruder, very nice detailed video. am glad i came across it since i was giving up wih my printer.
Can you explain or do a video on doing this process on a CR6 SE? There is an run out sensor before the extruder, so not sure if i woukd fo the measurement there or at the extruder itself. I’m a NOOB at all of this.. TIA! 😀
GREAT VIDEO!! I just attempted this method but when I input M500 I do not get the same response. Why is this happening? I am using a Tevo Tarantula using Repetier on my Mac.
Check the version of your firmware. Not all versions of Marlin support saving the EPROM settings. You might be able to research this by googling Teve Tarantula saving EPROM settings.
Hello Thanks for sharing… I’ve got a problem with my ender3 it’s seen by CURA but not by Repetier host “com serial error” I’m spending hours trying to understand but nothing. Could you have any suggestions please Thank you 🙏
What version of rep-host are you using? I see NONE of those screens with the newest version. I finally gave up after several hours of trying to hook this up and print something . I was using the rep-server also. Got so frustrated and uninstalled BOTH programs!
@Keely VB if rep-host is not working for you there are a number of alternative that might be easier to use. MatterControl from MatterHackers has a good terminal. I also did a video about using an extension for Chrome as a 3d printer terminal. Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/lR5QjnohsRk/w-d-xo.html
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out.
Dear Dr Vax, maybe this is none of my concerns but besides your excelent video's, I'm finding myself getting more intriged by the photo in the background. Would you tell us more about that event? You in a nice suit, looking very offical. Thanks from a big time fan!
thank you so much for your video. I am having an extremely hard time connecting my ender 5 plus to my computer using a USB. I need to adjust the steps per mm for engineering design grade prints but cannot access it. please help
Thanks a lot for the video .. it was helpful I have a ِAnet A8 printer when I try to move the Extruder stepper motor via control panel it does not work!! Do you think that one of the Firmware lines needs to be modified? thank you..
Unfortunately the firmware in ANET printers does not support many of the "optional" gcode commands. That said, extruding filament should work. Make sure you have set the temperature of the hotend (extruder temperature) before you try and move the filament.
@@MakeWithTech Thank you for a quick answer. The problem is that the extruder drive does not work via the control panel. Other stepper motors like X-Y-Z move through the control panel properly I changed the Extruder drive plug to the Y axis plug, and worked properly Now ... I’m almost sure that the problem is the firmware .. Can you help me to find out the command line in the firmware that disables the drive movement of the Extruder stepper motor? Thank you ..
You and I both use macs and Apple just issued it's newest OS update/upgrade and I lost the use of over 20 programs. One of them was Prontface, (PrintRun for Mac). Other than the one you showed what other 'free' or open source programs are out there for us Mac users?
I have not check if these are 32 but yet. I am away from my office and want to wait to upgrade until I am home. But you can check mattercontrol from MatterHackers and also AstroPrint Desktop.
Thanks a lot for this precious piece of knowledge! And for your clear and easy to understand english. I am having trouble on saving the e-steps configuration in the EEPROM. My Ender 3 ignores M500 command, when rebotted it is set back to the factory configuration. Can you give me any gidance of what can be going on?
@@WilGuzman Hey Wil! No, I wasn´t able to figure it out. What I am doing is setting the correct extrusion thru the slicer. But I would like to understand why I am not able to save the new settings.
I had the same problem with my new Ender 5 Pro. Make sure you have an SD card plugged in. It appears that for my printer, it is saving its configuration to the SD card, not internal EEPROM. Alternatively, you may be able to tell your slicer to add your M92 command to the G-code it generates. For Cura, it's in the printer settings. Finally, at least for me, it wasn't necessary to include X, Y, and Z values on the M92 command, just the E. For instance, "M92 E103.2" works fine for me.
Hi Irv, I just got my first 3D Printer last week (Anet ET5X) and am watching lots of your videos. I tested this today as I have problems Printing. With Repetier I could run the test and found out that my setting is off - The Problem: Repetier doesn't give me any ECHO - so the command M503 doesn't send anything back and I don't see the M92 line....... I searched in the Internet but I don't find the reason why....... Do you have any Idea? (in Repetier echo is on.....) May this be the Anet FW? Thanks for your help
I like the Repetier process, but in loading it I see a slight difference in format. I see a run command and the sad card icon in the upper bar and see the Goode tab in the box next to the screen. Where do I add those or do I have the wrong version downloaded. Thank.
Hey Dr V. Love your work. Thanks so much! Quick question about calculating e-steps. The original value in my E3Pro esteps was 93mm and I changed it after doing the algebra. However, I’m not sure I got it right and want to check it again. Second time around, should I use the factory setting for the e-steps (ie 93mm) or my adjusted calculation (which I suspect is not quite accurate)? Hope that makes sense??
Hi just wondering if youve ever come across where the bed is levelled perfect and the first layer is spot on infact shinny like glass but as the print goes up the z further the extruder clicks like it skips kinda like if you was printing to close to the bed but further so half way through any help would be amazing really stuck with this :)
How can I find what the Estep value is supposed to be on the ender 5? Can't do it in the control panel because I also have the TH3D Marlin for the ABL Thanks
Here are my current settings: Recv: echo:Steps per unit: Recv: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E95.00 Recv: echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s): Recv: echo: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z15.00 E50.00 Recv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2): Recv: echo: M201 X500 Y800 Z500 E5000 Recv: echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P R T Recv: echo: M204 P500.00 R500.00 T500.00 Recv: echo:Advanced: Q S T X Y Z E Recv: echo: M205 Q20000 S0.00 T0.00 X7.00 Y7.00 Z0.30 E5.00 However, you probably want to use the calibration technique in the video to reset your values. To get your current values you need to connect a terminal emulator to your printer. You can use Octoprint, Simpify3d or my current preferred option, which is completely free it MatterControl from Matterhackers. Then connect your printer over a USB port and enter M501 into the command line and sent this to the printer. You will see a result that looks like what I pasted at the top of this note. Good luck. Let's continue to learn together.
Hello, and thanks a lot for you good videos with info. It becomes a bunch when I try to print PLA 1.75mm with Ends-5 Pro. This worked before, but after trying a glass plate that the plastic didn't stick to, I went back to the original magnet plate, but it's curved in the middle so I have to put in between a paper ... Can Nozzle get too close? Otherwise, it looks like my ender-5 under extrude a little. I did, as you said, measured out 120mm, but it was no 25mm. What should I do to adjust it correctly? I hope you can help me? Thanks!
Do you have any idea how to get an Ender 3 Pro with Marlin version 1.1.6.2 to go back to printing in the center of the bed again? I found the coordinates roughly by manually adjusting the Y & X-axis over the center of an X I drew on my build plate, but how do I get it to print in the center? I do not want to Flash Marlin 2.0.
When I ran G1 E100 F100 after G92 E0, The program ran for 20 seconds and stopped coming up very short on the amount of filament that was used. What am I missing here.
It may be that your printer is out of calibration. How far off was it? What type of 3d printer is it? Was the extruder clicking? Did you heat up the hot end to the proper temperature for the filament before you issued the command? A better place for an interactive discussion would be the DrVax discussion forum at forum.drvax.com At the forum you can share your question and many people can reply and provide potential solutions.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks a lot for responding. From what I've read, this is a common problem with the Ender 5 pro right from the get go. The 1st run through, it would only extrude 4 mm, which meant a new step setting of 253 ish. was needed. 2nd run trough it extruded 9.8mm. I can now print fantastic layers. Thanks for the awesome video. A well thought out and detailed lesson.
If your extruder underextrude, does the flow calibration can fix the probleme or the flow calibration have a different use? I have always working that way and seem good like that.
Dr. Vax Many thanks this video was very helpful. I was able to correct my under extrusion but when I attempted M500 to save the changes I get No EEPROM. BTW I have the new Ender3 V2 with stock firmware @ 1.0.2 - Any suggestions from anyone would be greatly appreciate.
Wouldn't be easier/simpler to just remove the tube and fitting from the extruder, cut the filament flush with the face of the extruder, then run your command and measure what came out with a scale or for more accuracy , flush cut it and measure it with a calipers? And after you made any corrections you could do it again.
@@MakeWithTech Not really... you still have to do the math, but it's more accurate with the calipers. That's why I came out at 99.95. Can't see that on a scale.
Great video but would have been better if the print was off calibration in the beginning. and it would have ben incite see both under and over extradition calculations and steps.
tried moving the extruder on my new cr10s for the 100mm directly from the control box .. nozzletemp at 200C...increased extrude slowly...at about 90mm it stopped and box displayed "killed"....2nd try it stopped and "killed" much shorter distance
Is this the same control board that has the defective USB port? Sound like something is wrong overall. I would contact Creality support. Let me know how it goes.
Thanks. This video went through multiple versions before I released it and in fact, I was tempted to start over again. There is a saying that "Perfection Is The Enemy Of Done", so I released it since I had understood the need after releasing my second video about upgrading your extruder.
@@MakeWithTech All your videos are great and its a reference handbook for every occasion. The pace of your speech helps a lot to understand clearly what you explain and also the viewer feels your enthusiasm that you share something you just learn! So the phrase "Lets learn something together" is spot on!! Greetings from Greece!
Good afternoon, my tevo tarantula pro is leaking filaments on the sides of the extruder, is too much filament being deposited? If so, how does the calibration perform? I wait and God bless.
It sounds like something more basic. Make sure your nozzle, heat break, etc. are all tight. When over extruding your prints will suffer but filament should not be oozing out the sides. If you put in a new nozzle you need to tighten it when the printer is at temperature (hot).
Hi DrVax, When I send the M503 command to my printer I get the following error. Send: Send: M503 Recv: echo:Unknown command: "Send: M503" Recv: ok Have things changed since 2019? Please Help
This video helped me a lot already! You describe everything so well!! Is there a way to calibrate the z-axis steps as well. My printer seems to have some problems there as well =(
Metal Extruder For MP10 - I GIVE UP, bought Yutino for MK8 Bowdwn Extruder, tension spring has to much pressure so filiment doesn't extrude properly (in scrap pile now) also got Creality extruder for Endor 3, CR-7, CR-8 etc just didn't seem to fit correctly (in scrap pile now) NOW I'm waiting for stock plastic monoprice 33912 to come in and then be shipped
I did this tutorial on my Ender 3 pro (upgraded to direct drive) and it worked! After power cycling the settings where saved. However I am concerned as after I rebooted the printer the screen is now not working. I am doing my first test print after fixing under extruding issue I had and will let you know if it is printing better but the screen not displaying anything but random specs is kind of confusing....Any advise? I guess I dont need to use it as I can control everything with multiple different slicers but is there a way to fix this?
I have never experience a gcode setting that disables the screen. Either it is something I am not aware of or possible a cable just came loose. I the past I have found cables to my various stepper motor come loose at the most inopportune times causing me to waste time troubleshooting non issues. I recommend up plugging and reconnecting the screen cable at both ends.
Well I shut the computer down as well as power cycled the printer and the screen returned to normal. From what I can tell the printer doesn’t fully power cycle unless you A. Power of the computer or B. Remove the mini usb then power cycle the printer as it does seem to draw some power from the usb connection, not allowing for a true power cycle. Everything worked as video said.
Ok. Now I see what was happening. The control board in the 3d printer can be powered by the USB connection or via the cable to the power supply. When you have a USB cable connected to a computer it is in fact not powered off. This also happens if you leave a Raspberry Pi for Astroprint or Octoprint plugged into your printer. That is why TH3d sells this USB power blocker for $6. If you are going to leave your USB cable connect just add one of these power blockers and your 3d printer control board will power off when you power off the printer.\ Thanks for leaving a comment. This is an excellent example of learning together.
Depending on your 3d printer and the version of the firmware it is using you may not have a M92 line in you M503 output. If this is the case this is not tunable on your printer.
@@MakeWithTech Firstly, thank you so much for replying so quickly. I ended up just typing M92 E## and it showed in the code on the bottom left panel and showed ok. Then I put in M500 and it also shows ok below. I disconnected my computer and powered down printer. When I powered back up, the printer E stepper showed the new values. In your video, you said to send an M500 command to save it. I couldn't see the actual code you typed in cause it was too small on my phone, so I just went with M500. By the way, all your tutorials are fantastic. I search them often as I am new to printing. I purchased an Ender 3 Max. Loving it so far Cheers!!!
That helped me. But I'm almost positive that you lost many when you started talking algebra. Many people are doing algebra and not even realizing that they are doing it. For instance I work with a couple of guys that are great carpenters and their work leaves nothing to question but when you start throwing geometry at them they get beside themselves. They, however were taught in a time of simplicity. Try to simplify some of the jargon so to speak. That was an important subject and a rarely talked about fix that is a major cause for a huge number of printing errors. Thanks Dr Vax.
Unfortunately defining the new steps per mm does require some arithmetic. I am going to see if I can add a "calculator" to the drvax web site that will make this easier.
I have created a form on the DrVax.com website to help folks that do not want to do the math to calculate a new extruder value. Check this out: drvax.com/advanced-3d-print-calculating-extruder-steps-mm/
Hi Dr. Vax. I just realized one of my three stop limit switches has a missing metal tab on my ender 5. The actual part that makes contact. So the gantry is making contact with the red tab on the x axis stop limit switch. My question is are all the stop limit switches the same? Or is this how it’s supposed to be. When it returns to home it sounds different and is much louder when the x goes to the stop.
They all have the same part numbers on them (836) and all of the switches have levers. In terms of limit switchs, in general, the primary difference between limits switches is if they are normally open or normally closed. I used a meter to check one of my switches on the Ender 5 and also inspected the circuit boards the switches are connected to. These switches seem to be normally closed and they are wired with resistors since when the lever is not depressed there is resistance on the circuit.
@@DD-we9wm if it is making firm contact, the switch will still work and the louder sound is more of a definitive stop electro and physical as well now, against the switch at the same time the switch triggers, I actually prefer the stop triggering by the red button, because you don't have the variable of the flex from the metal tab. It wont do any harm as long as it triggers. The tab can easily be removed or as you say even knocked or brushed off. Just make sure there is something solid to trigger the button coming in contact, if there isn't you would know because the stepper motor would go a bit nuts.
Ok Mark, that is reassuring. The printer doesn’t sound happy but the explanation makes sense to me. Never thought about the flex of those tabs. It seems like the tabs give it the extra room to slow down, when it hits the red button it’s so abrupt. I’m glad to hear it’s most likely not damaging anything. Maybe Dr Vax could do a video on removing those tabs and stop limit switches in general. Also on a good note about all of this. I bought this from Amazon and it was a Comgrow Ender 5. I called Amazon and they said I needed to contact Comgrow directly. Expecting nothing from the Chinese company, Banggood never replied to my emails and they charged me for over $100 for a cancelled five minutes after it was placed order. I was expecting to be ignored, to my surprise I was contacted back within 12 hours!!! We will see how it goes. Wile 3D of TH-cam hooked me up with a replacement in the meantime. Thanks to him and thanks to you for your response. It is appreciated!
Daniel (and everyone else), search this on Thingiverse 'Silent Auto Home for Ender-5'. Print them and install them. It is crazy how much better they work. I hated how the printer would make that loud noise on X & Y when it went home. You will have none of that after this upgrade. Best of all it only takes about 15 minutes to install. Just remember that your limit switches get flipped upside down for this to work. The Ender 5 should have been like this from the factory. As always, great video DrVax!
Thank you. I changed my extruder and the hot end started pushing out way too much filament. I will try your instructions as soon. P.S. You are connecting your laptop USB directly to the Printer USB?
I tried doing this and when i try to connect to my printer with Repetier-Host V2.1.6 it gives me “Access to the port ‘COM3’ is denied. Can anyone help?
Good morning Mr. Schapiro I am very new in these 3D printing I have a hard time understanding how this thing works I printed a ring and he came out like a stuck spaghetti is it possible to send you a picture of it and you can tell me Watt I do wrong i’ve been watching most of your videos i’m 72 years old came from Israel and I’m looking for something to do not for a living just to occupy myself thanks
I do not believe you can. Cura USB support has not been reliable in recent versions. I recommend on of the programs I listed in the video. If a viewer has cura 4 working over usb with an Ender please leave a comment. Another alternative which is easy to use is mattercontrol from MatterHackers.
@@MakeWithTech no he didnt he just extrude from the menu of the printer 100 mm and he makes the calculation and he put the numbers in the estep of the menu
I quickly became totally lost I hate to say.. I'll replay it slowly but I don't think I'm there yet. Unless you have the same printer and use the same software its tough. Maybe one day I'll get there. Luckily my new extruder seems pretty good. I'm waiting for the day when it is all self adjusting. Remember tractor fed printers with ribbon ink...now full colour.. just load the paper. 3D printing will be there soon ... and the sooner the better.
@don murphy I have created a form on the DrVax.com website to help folks that do not want to do the math to calculate a new extruder value. Check this out: drvax.com/advanced-3d-print-calculating-extruder-steps-mm/
Interesting. I do not have a CR10 only and Ender 5 and an Ender 3 Pro. I am way from my lab for 2 weeks so I cannot test right now, but if you are still having the problem after the 6th let me know and I will test on my Enders. P.S. I will be filming videos from my Son's house with and in fact will be testing a new printer but my Creality printers are at my home lab.
This video is the gold standard video for extruder calibration. I'm doing it the same way. Thanks Dr.Vax
Thanks.
Unbelievable quality. It is really a joy to find someone with this wealth of knowledge and so generous to share it with us. Thank you very much for your wonderful videos. Best regards from Brazil.
Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for the helpful videos. They are very well done. I followed this video with no issues, and discovered mine was only using 96mm. After following this tutorial it is now perfect at 100mm. Thank you, again.
Great to hear!
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
This video helped me so much. It took me a while to figure out how to connect my laptop to my Monoprice MP10 and make the appropriate changes. E steps for extruder and Y axis were off. This video helped me understand and how to fix the extruder which was off by 17 and y axis off by 8. Printing out perfect squares now. Thank you.
Hello. My extruding was under, but now I think I fixed it. Thank you very much for your help.
Important thing to know that you need to calibrate extruder steps to extrude exact amount of filament.
You will need to calibrate *flow* separately in your slicer. For my Ender 3 and given ABS filament I use 91% flow to make walls exactly match the model.
This took me a long time to realize how great this video is. I have watched it about 5 to 10 times over a couple of weeks. I'm building my second Ender 5, while I use my original one to print parts for it. As I'm building the new one, I;m upgrading parts, new Micro Swiss hot end, EZR Struder by SeeMeCNC and the new TH3D EZBoard Lite which should arrive within a week. This video really has helped in understanding how to adjust settings and to start to understand the Marlin firmware - gcode.
Thanks for the comment. You may find this video helpful. th-cam.com/video/Ny_LD1vXO2k/w-d-xo.html
As said by John, nice explanation, I'm doing it the same way in order to check my CR-10 setup. Thanks, it's always a pleasure to watch your videos.
Thanks.
Thanks Doc, fairly easy video to grasp, I bought a Bondtech LGX and would tell it to spit out 30mm and be lucky to get 10mm out so I am hoping this works.
All of your videos are excellent! You are always cheerful, polite, and very concise. Thank you for all your great work, we always learn something together :)
Thanks for the comment.
Hi DrVax, Thanks for a very informative and extremely clear "How To Video". I am now confident I can follow your instructions and perform an E-Step calibration on my own 3D printer. Cheers.
Great to hear!
Dr. Vax Thanks for the great video, I like how detailed you make your presentations. I'm having trouble with my Ender5 Pro printer. I cannot get my filament to stick to the bed so I thought I'd start with an extruder cal. When I calibrated my extruder, on attempt one, it only used 5 cm of filament, less than half of what is expected. So, what I did and before I changed any settings, I then removed the blue hose at the nozzle end and fed out a cm or two of filament and placed a mark on the filament close to the end of the blue hose. I performed your calibration, steps G1 E100 F100 etc. and measured how much filament came out of the blue hose. It measured exactly 10 cm, so the extruder spit out 10cm of filament. When I perform a filament change the filament pours out of the nozzle so there is no plugging going on. After putting it all back together, I tried printing a small test pattern and everything else for that matter. I cannot get the filament to stick to the bed, and I tried everything under the sun. 3 different bed plates, tape, glue hairspray. I increased the bed temp decreased the bed temp, increased then decreased the nozzle temp. I tried 3 different profiles. I have an EZBAL bed leveler so I was able to adjust the nozzle height up and down, but it still won't stick. I dried my filament in a dehydrator and changed filaments. It seems the filament is not spewing out like it should when printing. It looks very thin and hairy looking. Yet again I performed a filament change and it spewed out in a nice spaghetti like form. Any thoughts. Why would the extruder extrude 5 cm one way and 10cm the other way?
Very Confused
Oh my gosh... you are soo professional and very easy to understand .. thanks man
Thanks
I think you can read my mind with your videos! I needed this info today!
Thanks. My approach is to address questions I had when I started with 3d printing and to try and answer any questions from my viewers. Thanks for watching.
need to tell you this. You are so sweet! omg I watch like 5 other videos and all was ... omg,... what im doing! you are the only one that explains slow, and clear! thank you
this is great stuff, thank you. interesting subjects and good explanations. I just subscribed, you deserve more users
Great video. I had to replace my hotend assembly which has a 4mm nozzle. The orginal hotend had a 6mm nozzle. Since im now using a 4mm nozzle, do i need to perform an extruder calibration?
Your videos are great. Clear and to the point. Keep em coming
If possible... the longer the test piece / length of filament used the more accurate the final setting to regulate over or under extrusion. Good videos as usual. Thanks
Gret tutorial, and thanks very much for sharing the according ppt :-). Very helpful!
Thank you for all
The videos and the good explanation. I'm new to this hobby with a good technical background.
I enjoyed very much.
I have 17 "how to calibrate extruder" videos lined up in new tabs and have been going through them, but all assume some part of the knowledge, and rarely a clear demonstration is given, either on the printer or the host software. This is as clear as it gets! Thank you. I feel confident to do it with my own printer now.
Question, some people have advised to take the 'hot end' off to calibrate e-steps. I don't think is required but is this something people do?
and one more question, some people have also advised that my particular printer has 'eprom' turned off? so that it won't store the settings when I turn the printer off? Have you heard of this?
Again, thank you for making a really clear video that explained everything really well. Other video's just lost me when something wasn't explained well or they assume you are familiar with a step so they skip explaining it altogether...
I've seen others say to extrude the filament through the nozzle for "real results", and others say disconnect the bowden tube and measure it coming out of the extruder motor, before the hotend. If you think about it, this is silly because, either way the filament is being fed by the motor which has no idea what the filament does, it just spins a mathematical amount of rotations based on the length of filament you told it to feed through. You can remove the bowden tube and avaoid heating the hotend, or you can leave the bowden tube and heat up the hotend, both ways are equal because the motor will spin the same amount to feed the filament through
Hey I've heard that some printers won't let you save to the eeprom.. Alternatively you can can add that gcode to your starting gcode in the slicer and it'll just do it each time for you.
You are absolutely correct. You can also use the slicer extruder multiplier which is called Flow under Material in Cura, Extruder Multiplier in Slic3r, and Extrusion Multiplier in Simpify3d.
Hello DrVax, can you go into some detail about the information petetier software is asking when setting it up,I am at a los . Thank You.
thank you, this video helped me fix my cheap anet a6 since i changed my extruder, very nice detailed video. am glad i came across it since i was giving up wih my printer.
Happy to help.
Can you explain or do a video on doing this process on a CR6 SE? There is an run out sensor before the extruder, so not sure if i woukd fo the measurement there or at the extruder itself. I’m a NOOB at all of this.. TIA! 😀
This is an excellent video. Thank you so much for making this.
GREAT VIDEO!! I just attempted this method but when I input M500 I do not get the same response. Why is this happening? I am using a Tevo Tarantula using Repetier on my Mac.
Check the version of your firmware. Not all versions of Marlin support saving the EPROM settings. You might be able to research this by googling Teve Tarantula saving EPROM settings.
Amazing! Your my new Encyclopedia Britannica.
Wow, thanks!
Hello
Thanks for sharing…
I’ve got a problem with my ender3 it’s seen by CURA but not by Repetier host “com serial error” I’m spending hours trying to understand but nothing. Could you have any suggestions please
Thank you 🙏
What version of rep-host are you using? I see NONE of those screens with the newest version. I finally gave up after several hours of trying to hook this up and print something . I was using the rep-server also. Got so frustrated and uninstalled BOTH programs!
@Keely VB if rep-host is not working for you there are a number of alternative that might be easier to use. MatterControl from MatterHackers has a good terminal. I also did a video about using an extension for Chrome as a 3d printer terminal. Check out this video:
th-cam.com/video/lR5QjnohsRk/w-d-xo.html
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out.
Absolutely great videos! Your are a great teacher!
Dear Dr Vax, maybe this is none of my concerns but besides your excelent video's, I'm finding myself getting more intriged by the photo in the background.
Would you tell us more about that event? You in a nice suit, looking very offical. Thanks from a big time fan!
thank you so much for your video. I am having an extremely hard time connecting my ender 5 plus to my computer using a USB. I need to adjust the steps per mm for engineering design grade prints but cannot access it. please help
Try use the free Mattercontrol sw from Matterhackers.
@@MakeWithTech I will give it a try thank you
Thanks a lot for the video .. it was helpful
I have a ِAnet A8 printer when I try to move the Extruder stepper motor via control panel it does not work!!
Do you think that one of the Firmware lines needs to be modified?
thank you..
Unfortunately the firmware in ANET printers does not support many of the "optional" gcode commands. That said, extruding filament should work. Make sure you have set the temperature of the hotend (extruder temperature) before you try and move the filament.
@@MakeWithTech Thank you for a quick answer.
The problem is that the extruder drive does not work via the control panel.
Other stepper motors like X-Y-Z move through the control panel properly
I changed the Extruder drive plug to the Y axis plug, and worked properly
Now ... I’m almost sure that the problem is the firmware .. Can you help me to find out the command line in the firmware that disables the drive movement of the Extruder stepper motor?
Thank you ..
You and I both use macs and Apple just issued it's newest OS update/upgrade and I lost the use of over 20 programs. One of them was Prontface, (PrintRun for Mac). Other than the one you showed what other 'free' or open source programs are out there for us Mac users?
I have not check if these are 32 but yet. I am away from my office and want to wait to upgrade until I am home. But you can check mattercontrol from MatterHackers and also AstroPrint Desktop.
Thanks a lot for this precious piece of knowledge! And for your clear and easy to understand english.
I am having trouble on saving the e-steps configuration in the EEPROM. My Ender 3 ignores M500 command, when rebotted it is set back to the factory configuration.
Can you give me any gidance of what can be going on?
Tiago - The No EEPROM issue that you had - Were you able to figure it out ?
@@WilGuzman Hey Wil! No, I wasn´t able to figure it out. What I am doing is setting the correct extrusion thru the slicer. But I would like to understand why I am not able to save the new settings.
I had the same problem with my new Ender 5 Pro. Make sure you have an SD card plugged in. It appears that for my printer, it is saving its configuration to the SD card, not internal EEPROM.
Alternatively, you may be able to tell your slicer to add your M92 command to the G-code it generates. For Cura, it's in the printer settings.
Finally, at least for me, it wasn't necessary to include X, Y, and Z values on the M92 command, just the E. For instance, "M92 E103.2" works fine for me.
In the slide from given link for the measure value, i not really understand 120- 29. Where the number of 29 come from?
Hi Irv, I just got my first 3D Printer last week (Anet ET5X) and am watching lots of your videos. I tested this today as I have problems Printing. With Repetier I could run the test and found out that my setting is off - The Problem: Repetier doesn't give me any ECHO - so the command M503 doesn't send anything back and I don't see the M92 line....... I searched in the Internet but I don't find the reason why....... Do you have any Idea? (in Repetier echo is on.....) May this be the Anet FW? Thanks for your help
Try using the terminal in matterhackers’s mattercontrol program. It us a free program.
I like the Repetier process, but in loading it I see a slight difference in format. I see a run command and the sad card icon in the upper bar and see the Goode tab in the box next to the screen. Where do I add those or do I have the wrong version downloaded. Thank.
Hey Dr V. Love your work. Thanks so much! Quick question about calculating e-steps. The original value in my E3Pro esteps was 93mm and I changed it after doing the algebra. However, I’m not sure I got it right and want to check it again. Second time around, should I use the factory setting for the e-steps (ie 93mm) or my adjusted calculation (which I suspect is not quite accurate)? Hope that makes sense??
It does not matter. The algebra is relative.
Hi just wondering if youve ever come across where the bed is levelled perfect and the first layer is spot on infact shinny like glass but as the print goes up the z further the extruder clicks like it skips kinda like if you was printing to close to the bed but further so half way through any help would be amazing really stuck with this :)
How can I find what the Estep value is supposed to be on the ender 5? Can't do it in the control panel because I also have the TH3D Marlin for the ABL Thanks
Here are my current settings:
Recv: echo:Steps per unit:
Recv: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E95.00
Recv: echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):
Recv: echo: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z15.00 E50.00
Recv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
Recv: echo: M201 X500 Y800 Z500 E5000
Recv: echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P R T
Recv: echo: M204 P500.00 R500.00 T500.00
Recv: echo:Advanced: Q S T X Y Z E
Recv: echo: M205 Q20000 S0.00 T0.00 X7.00 Y7.00 Z0.30 E5.00
However, you probably want to use the calibration technique in the video to reset your values. To get your current values you need to connect a terminal emulator to your printer. You can use Octoprint, Simpify3d or my current preferred option, which is completely free it MatterControl from Matterhackers. Then connect your printer over a USB port and enter M501 into the command line and sent this to the printer. You will see a result that looks like what I pasted at the top of this note.
Good luck. Let's continue to learn together.
Hello, and thanks a lot for you good videos with info. It becomes a bunch when I try to print PLA 1.75mm with Ends-5 Pro. This worked before, but after trying a glass plate that the plastic didn't stick to, I went back to the original magnet plate, but it's curved in the middle so I have to put in between a paper ... Can Nozzle get too close? Otherwise, it looks like my ender-5 under extrude a little. I did, as you said, measured out 120mm, but it was no 25mm. What should I do to adjust it correctly? I hope you can help me? Thanks!
Great explained, thank you very much
My pleasure
What do you do when the extruder wont move when trying to calibrate the e-steps. the extruder works but not when i want it to move by .1mm at a time.
Thank you very much !!!! your video helped me a lot !!!
You are welcome.
Do you have any idea how to get an Ender 3 Pro with Marlin version 1.1.6.2 to go back to printing in the center of the bed again? I found the coordinates roughly by manually adjusting the Y & X-axis over the center of an X I drew on my build plate, but how do I get it to print in the center? I do not want to Flash Marlin 2.0.
excellent video thank you for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it
On the part where you copy the M92 code on repetitor I don't see a M92, using a anycubic mega zero would this be different? I'm have marlin V0.0.4
Since this is a relatively old version of marlin I am not sure what comments it supports.
When I ran G1 E100 F100 after G92 E0, The program ran for 20 seconds and stopped coming up very short on the amount of filament that was used. What am I missing here.
It may be that your printer is out of calibration. How far off was it? What type of 3d printer is it? Was the extruder clicking? Did you heat up the hot end to the proper temperature for the filament before you issued the command?
A better place for an interactive discussion would be the DrVax discussion forum at forum.drvax.com At the forum you can share your question and many people can reply and provide potential solutions.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks a lot for responding. From what I've read, this is a common problem with the Ender 5 pro right from the get go. The 1st run through, it would only extrude 4 mm, which meant a new step setting of 253 ish. was needed. 2nd run trough it extruded 9.8mm. I can now print fantastic layers. Thanks for the awesome video. A well thought out and detailed lesson.
If your extruder underextrude, does the flow calibration can fix the probleme or the flow calibration have a different use? I have always working that way and seem good like that.
Yes. It will unless you have another issues.
Dr. Vax Many thanks this video was very helpful. I was able to correct my under extrusion but when I attempted M500 to save the changes I get No EEPROM.
BTW I have the new Ender3 V2 with stock firmware @ 1.0.2 - Any suggestions from anyone would be greatly appreciate.
Wouldn't be easier/simpler to just remove the tube and fitting from the extruder, cut the filament flush with the face of the extruder, then run your command and measure what came out with a scale or for more accuracy , flush cut it and measure it with a calipers? And after you made any corrections you could do it again.
Not sure. But your way seems like a lot of extra work to save some simple math.
@@MakeWithTech Not really... you still have to do the math, but it's more accurate with the calipers. That's why I came out at 99.95. Can't see that on a scale.
Great video but would have been better if the print was off calibration in the beginning. and it would have ben incite see both under and over extradition calculations and steps.
tried moving the extruder on my new cr10s for the 100mm directly from the control box .. nozzletemp at 200C...increased extrude slowly...at about 90mm it stopped and box displayed "killed"....2nd try it stopped and "killed" much shorter distance
Is this the same control board that has the defective USB port? Sound like something is wrong overall. I would contact Creality support. Let me know how it goes.
Great and clear explanation!!
Thanks. This video went through multiple versions before I released it and in fact, I was tempted to start over again. There is a saying that "Perfection Is The Enemy Of Done", so I released it since I had understood the need after releasing my second video about upgrading your extruder.
@@MakeWithTech All your videos are great and its a reference handbook for every occasion. The pace of your speech helps a lot to understand clearly what you explain and also the viewer feels your enthusiasm that you share something you just learn! So the phrase "Lets learn something together" is spot on!! Greetings from Greece!
Thanks for your comment and support. Please feel free to recommend future videos.
What about for a direct drive extruder? I have and ender 3 S1 pro.
Good afternoon, my tevo tarantula pro is leaking filaments on the sides of the extruder, is too much filament being deposited? If so, how does the calibration perform? I wait and God bless.
It sounds like something more basic. Make sure your nozzle, heat break, etc. are all tight. When over extruding your prints will suffer but filament should not be oozing out the sides. If you put in a new nozzle you need to tighten it when the printer is at temperature (hot).
This guy's really good!
Hi DrVax, When I send the M503 command to my printer I get the following error.
Send: Send: M503
Recv: echo:Unknown command: "Send: M503"
Recv: ok
Have things changed since 2019?
Please Help
In that case your current firmware does not support the command. Make sure the command is in uppercase.
This video helped me a lot already! You describe everything so well!! Is there a way to calibrate the z-axis steps as well. My printer seems to have some problems there as well =(
Hey! Im having trouble getting consistent extrusion.
I tested 3 times and the results were 96,75mm / 95,9mm / 94,6mm what could be going wrong here?
He mentions that he replaced the ender firmware. Do you know if it's possible to save off the stock firmware before overwriting it?
I do not know the proper procedure to save a firmware image from a control board but you should be able to get the original firmware from Creality.
I've noticed Creality has the e-steps setting in the control menu, can we just change it their, or will it not save it to the machines memory?
Depending on your machine and version of main board that is possible.
Alright, I will give it a shot on the Cr10 Mini I just got and see if it saves. Thank you.
Metal Extruder For MP10 - I GIVE UP, bought Yutino for MK8 Bowdwn Extruder, tension spring has to much pressure so filiment doesn't extrude properly (in scrap pile now)
also
got Creality extruder for Endor 3, CR-7, CR-8 etc just didn't seem to fit correctly (in scrap pile now)
NOW I'm
waiting for stock plastic monoprice 33912 to come in and then be shipped
it is necessary to calibrate the extruder after firmware update?
I did this tutorial on my Ender 3 pro (upgraded to direct drive) and it worked! After power cycling the settings where saved. However I am concerned as after I rebooted the printer the screen is now not working. I am doing my first test print after fixing under extruding issue I had and will let you know if it is printing better but the screen not displaying anything but random specs is kind of confusing....Any advise? I guess I dont need to use it as I can control everything with multiple different slicers but is there a way to fix this?
I have never experience a gcode setting that disables the screen. Either it is something I am not aware of or possible a cable just came loose. I the past I have found cables to my various stepper motor come loose at the most inopportune times causing me to waste time troubleshooting non issues. I recommend up plugging and reconnecting the screen cable at both ends.
Well I shut the computer down as well as power cycled the printer and the screen returned to normal. From what I can tell the printer doesn’t fully power cycle unless you A. Power of the computer or B. Remove the mini usb then power cycle the printer as it does seem to draw some power from the usb connection, not allowing for a true power cycle. Everything worked as video said.
Ok. Now I see what was happening. The control board in the 3d printer can be powered by the USB connection or via the cable to the power supply. When you have a USB cable connected to a computer it is in fact not powered off. This also happens if you leave a Raspberry Pi for Astroprint or Octoprint plugged into your printer.
That is why TH3d sells this USB power blocker for $6. If you are going to leave your USB cable connect just add one of these power blockers and your 3d printer control board will power off when you power off the printer.\
Thanks for leaving a comment. This is an excellent example of learning together.
I just downloaded repetier and it looks nothing like what you have. what the..v2.1.6
Will this work for the Ender 5 Plus?
I have the 2.2.1 silent Board installed on it.
It should. Creality uses a standard variant of Marlin.
@@MakeWithTech OK, I ask since I heard they locked down the firmware on the Ender 5 Plus. So, I wished to verify if this will work.
I could fix my issues thank you 😊
I can follow along and everything goes smoothly until the part where you say to copy the M92 line. I cannot find that line to save my life.
Depending on your 3d printer and the version of the firmware it is using you may not have a M92 line in you M503 output. If this is the case this is not tunable on your printer.
@@MakeWithTech
Firstly, thank you so much for replying so quickly. I ended up just typing M92 E## and it showed in the code on the bottom left panel and showed ok.
Then I put in M500 and it also shows ok below.
I disconnected my computer and powered down printer. When I powered back up, the printer E stepper showed the new values. In your video, you said to send an M500 command to save it. I couldn't see the actual code you typed in cause it was too small on my phone, so I just went with M500.
By the way, all your tutorials are fantastic. I search them often as I am new to printing. I purchased an Ender 3 Max. Loving it so far
Cheers!!!
How do we reset this printer back to factory defaults? My motors during the print are pulsing.
Actually any movement below 26mm/s create the pulsing move.
That helped me. But I'm almost positive that you lost many when you started talking algebra. Many people are doing algebra and not even realizing that they are doing it. For instance I work with a couple of guys that are great carpenters and their work leaves nothing to question but when you start throwing geometry at them they get beside themselves. They, however were taught in a time of simplicity. Try to simplify some of the jargon so to speak. That was an important subject and a rarely talked about fix that is a major cause for a huge number of printing errors. Thanks Dr Vax.
Unfortunately defining the new steps per mm does require some arithmetic. I am going to see if I can add a "calculator" to the drvax web site that will make this easier.
I have created a form on the DrVax.com website to help folks that do not want to do the math to calculate a new extruder value. Check this out:
drvax.com/advanced-3d-print-calculating-extruder-steps-mm/
Could I manually input the setting you have or do I need the M92 code from my printer? Having a hard time finding this
Getting a "Unknown Command" when entering "Send M503"
If you printer does not have real Marlin firmware it may not support these command. This is a challenge with printers that use proprietary firmware.
Correct me if I'm wrong but In calculating the new extruder step value which is 6 minutes into the video the numbers are incorrect.
I'll take a look.
Will be using GCode -Sender
Hi Dr. Vax. I just realized one of my three stop limit switches has a missing metal tab on my ender 5. The actual part that makes contact. So the gantry is making contact with the red tab on the x axis stop limit switch. My question is are all the stop limit switches the same? Or is this how it’s supposed to be. When it returns to home it sounds different and is much louder when the x goes to the stop.
They all have the same part numbers on them (836) and all of the switches have levers.
In terms of limit switchs, in general, the primary difference between limits switches is if they are normally open or normally closed. I used a meter to check one of my switches on the Ender 5 and also inspected the circuit boards the switches are connected to.
These switches seem to be normally closed and they are wired with resistors since when the lever is not depressed there is resistance on the circuit.
Thank you doctor.
@@DD-we9wm if it is making firm contact, the switch will still work and the louder sound is more of a definitive stop electro and physical as well now, against the switch at the same time the switch triggers, I actually prefer the stop triggering by the red button, because you don't have the variable of the flex from the metal tab. It wont do any harm as long as it triggers. The tab can easily be removed or as you say even knocked or brushed off. Just make sure there is something solid to trigger the button coming in contact, if there isn't you would know because the stepper motor would go a bit nuts.
Ok Mark, that is reassuring. The printer doesn’t sound happy but the explanation makes sense to me. Never thought about the flex of those tabs. It seems like the tabs give it the extra room to slow down, when it hits the red button it’s so abrupt. I’m glad to hear it’s most likely not damaging anything.
Maybe Dr Vax could do a video on removing those tabs and stop limit switches in general.
Also on a good note about all of this. I bought this from Amazon and it was a Comgrow Ender 5. I called Amazon and they said I needed to contact Comgrow directly. Expecting nothing from the Chinese company, Banggood never replied to my emails and they charged me for over $100 for a cancelled five minutes after it was placed order. I was expecting to be ignored, to my surprise I was contacted back within 12 hours!!! We will see how it goes. Wile 3D of TH-cam hooked me up with a replacement in the meantime. Thanks to him and thanks to you for your response. It is appreciated!
Daniel (and everyone else), search this on Thingiverse 'Silent Auto Home for Ender-5'. Print them and install them. It is crazy how much better they work. I hated how the printer would make that loud noise on X & Y when it went home. You will have none of that after this upgrade. Best of all it only takes about 15 minutes to install. Just remember that your limit switches get flipped upside down for this to work. The Ender 5 should have been like this from the factory.
As always, great video DrVax!
Thank you. I changed my extruder and the hot end started pushing out way too much filament. I will try your instructions as soon. P.S. You are connecting your laptop USB directly to the Printer USB?
I like using mattercontrol from matter hackers or octoprint for connecting to the printer USB.
Can you calibrate your printer at the printer? Thank you
Great video
Thanks for your support.
I tried doing this and when i try to connect to my printer with Repetier-Host V2.1.6 it gives me “Access to the port ‘COM3’ is denied. Can anyone help?
My printer is also an Ender 5.
shafiro is the man !!!
Good morning Mr. Schapiro I am very new in these 3D printing I have a hard time understanding how this thing works I printed a ring and he came out like a stuck spaghetti is it possible to send you a picture of it and you can tell me Watt I do wrong i’ve been watching most of your videos i’m 72 years old came from Israel and I’m looking for something to do not for a living just to occupy myself thanks
how to extrude 100mm on ender5 with cura ?
I do not believe you can. Cura USB support has not been reliable in recent versions. I recommend on of the programs I listed in the video.
If a viewer has cura 4 working over usb with an Ender please leave a comment.
Another alternative which is easy to use is mattercontrol from MatterHackers.
@@MakeWithTech my friend on cr10s have in the menu extrude my ender5 i cant find it
How did your friend connect to cura? Do you know the version?
@@MakeWithTech no he didnt he just extrude from the menu of the printer 100 mm and he makes the calculation and he put the numbers in the estep of the menu
Makes sense.
Thank you!
I quickly became totally lost I hate to say.. I'll replay it slowly but I don't think I'm there yet. Unless you have the same printer and use the same software its tough. Maybe one day I'll get there. Luckily my new extruder seems pretty good. I'm waiting for the day when it is all self adjusting. Remember tractor fed printers with ribbon ink...now full colour.. just load the paper. 3D printing will be there soon ... and the sooner the better.
I hear you.
@don murphy I have created a form on the DrVax.com website to help folks that do not want to do the math to calculate a new extruder value. Check this out:
drvax.com/advanced-3d-print-calculating-extruder-steps-mm/
I retracted the filament instead. 10cm of filament saved.
you should have a tv show
Why not measure after the extruder taking the bowden tube off. Then you can simply stick to 100mm instead of 120
no i returned the cr10 for full refund then got cr10s
Interesting. I do not have a CR10 only and Ender 5 and an Ender 3 Pro. I am way from my lab for 2 weeks so I cannot test right now, but if you are still having the problem after the 6th let me know and I will test on my Enders.
P.S. I will be filming videos from my Son's house with and in fact will be testing a new printer but my Creality printers are at my home lab.
First!
5 and 5pro are so much easier. Hate this about my 5plus
The content was all there but it wasn't well presented.
Sorry it did not work for you.
@@MakeWithTech I am too. I like your channel but false praise doesn't help anyone. Daniel @ Modbot has an excellent video on this tiopic.