Comments are most welcome, try this and send us some feedback☺️ Why not visit our channel and browse through our other videos? th-cam.com/users/AnnErasmus
I've watched so many videos of people installing these cabinets and you are the only one who actually showed the brackets on the back of the cabinets, or mentioned the washers to keep the rail from twisting. Thank you.
Thank you for this very detailed explanation. I appreciate the step by step guide for those who have never done this before. I’ll add a suggestion I found helpful from a different channel… It is that you can double the weight load capacity of the rails by adding an additional screw just under the bottom of the rail at each stud, thereby supporting it from below, in addition to the intended screw within the rail. It makes sense to me and I plan to do this with my kitchen installation planned in a couple weeks.
20:54 this was the most important information from your very thorough video. I cant even start because I don’t know the answer to this obvious question. Every video is “screw it into the studs” and leave out the obvious problem. Imagine all these naive customers buying expensive kitchens and getting this problem. The only solution I have stumbled upon is to cut out the dry wall, make your own stud or baton between studs, replace the dry wall.
@@AnnErasmus my first kitchen i made with plywood and a skill saw 30 years ago im just about to remove it.i had no money for years but i paid the place off first.
That's exactly what we did especially since our studs weren't all 16 inches on center and I wanted that strength. Wonder if the same Canadian handyman showed us the same trick...lol
Bought 5,000$ worth of cabinets waiting on delivery was a little nervous about the installation you described the process perfectly now I’m confident wife and I can do it
thank you for sharing your experience, really useful, much appreciated pal getting my hands dirty next week with our new kitchen project shame on you who disliked this video
This product looks great on paper. Tons of parts with some pictures. But let`s be realistic here...getting it on the wall level and plumb and working with crooked walls and floors...ha ha believe me, I have been in the cabinet business for 35 years and have installed designed built many jobs. I did an Ikea kitchen for my daughters reno and this was not an easy task as you say. Had to improvise at every turn. Took three times longer than traditionally built cabinets. For you all out there..be prepared. It`s a challenge.
Great video, If you take your time and are not to ham fisted with Ikea flatpacks anyone can do a great job, and make it look professional, Ikeas units are exceptional. I would recommend them without hesitation.
if you have steel studs, you need regular stud screws with fine thread. what you showed - self-drilling screws - are for metal sheet that is much thicker than studs.
There is actually a point to screwing at 30cm even if it's just drywall. First of all, with a proper drywall plug/screw it _will_ hold weight and it _will_ combat forces pulling away from the wall. 2nd, it prevents twisting of the rail. Of course we'd like to think rails keep perfectly straight. But in reality there will be some play on it. But using bigger screws where you are sure of your studs was a good idea, yes. And if you do the supporting legs properly that makes a lot of difference as well of course.
Sorry I don't know the answer, May I suggest you experiment cutting one leg and see if it is feasible without affecting strength and stability? Thanks for your comment.
Wonder if instead of using the legs you could build boxes instead? Might have to rip 2x4s into the exact height you need and fasten them to the ground (2x4s are around 8.89 cm so higher than legs to begin with), then hang cabinets by the rail and fasten them to the box by drilling through the bottom of the cabinet. If you build be box out you can then simply attach your toekicks directly to the 2x4s.
I'm planning my new kitchen and at first, I was afraid (I was almost petrified) since I thought no legs are involved and I can't put cabinets flush against the wall if they sat directly on the floor since there are heating pipes and tiling running along the bottom of the wall, some 15 cm above the floor. But legs will provide enough of a lift to jump across that so the back of the cabinets WILL be against the wall despite the piping. Adding four legs to each cabinet and securing them to the rail will provide all the load bearing strength I will need; my walls are made of reinforced concrete so no issues there :D I'm almost confident I could do all of this by myself. :)
Thanks for your feedback, much appreciated. May I suggest you also watch this video, regarding legs and plinth heights th-cam.com/video/Ln2VB-q6ti0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for all the great tips. Living in Australia there’s so little DIY content to suit us because the tradies guard their knowledge….there’s a lot of US content on TH-cam but it’s all in feet and inches :) and the standards are obviously not the same.
Thank you for a Great, easy to follow video. So, when preparing to load cabinet onto the lower rail, do I install all 4 feet @7cm height..install cabinet , then adjust the feet?…Or..Install only the 2 front feet @8cm, then adjust up or down 1cm? I ask this because the feet are sold in boxes of 2 only.(?Also-for quicker rail installation, wouldn’t it be simpler to add height of rail to 84cm (making top of rail mark @89.5cm)? Any idea why the bottom of the rail is used for this measurement? My kitchen was installed without a lower rail and I find the drawers frequently scraping together when opening and closing. I plan on removing the cabinets, installing the rail and realigning all properly in hopes of correcting the drawer issue. Thank you in advance for your kind advice.
Thank you for your kind words. To answer your questions in order:- 1. Concerning the feet, I would put on all 4 then hang on rail. If you only have 2 legs the cabinets are less stable especially when loading heavy stuff into them with can lead to distortion and possible problems with doors and drawers. If you intend putting the back feet on after hanging it will be difficult to get them on, much easier to put on all 4 first and them adjust to level and finally check all 4 are just touching the floor so that the cabinets are stable before loading. I also prefer the feet to be taking a good proportion of the weight especially if the rail is only secured every 60cm on studs, as was the case for me. 2. I agree adding feet may solve your drawer problems but you will need to check that the cabinets are not out of square. Because they may have been twisted out of square when they were loaded without feet or assembled out of square. Many people are not aware that the corners of the IKEA cabinets need to be squared up before the back is nailed on. The backing is what keeps the cabinet square.
Thanks for taking time to answer. K will use 4 feet before placing cabinet on the rail. Maybe the back wall isnt level and that has thrown the drawers off. I will be attentive and use spacers when installing the rail. Thank again! All the best to you!
With regard to a sink unit being beside another unit that doesn't have a bar across the front. The bar sits on top of the cabinet so it raises the counter top. There is then a gap at the other cabinet where the worktop doesn't touch the edge. What can you do? Sink the bar into the cabinet so it is flush with the edges?
In my case I have a gap between the cabinets, due to my washing machine and dryer. Would you cut the rail and leave a gap? Or just continue the rail all the way?
Thanks for all your comments, much appreciated. Personally I would continue the rail through the washing machine space. In my view that will provide more strength and be easier to keep the same level. Hope this helps, good luck 😊👍
@@AnnErasmus thanks for the reply. I was thinking the same as I don’t have a flush wall. This will make sure the rail is sitting at the right gap from the wall.
Thank you ,nice video. I have just installed IKEA upper wall kitchen cabinets and found out that metal pin locks facing down towards the bench. You have same situation with your upper wall cabinet ,I can see it while you are standing in front of it. How do you cover these pin locks please?? I think these locks should be in side of the cabinet and this is design error. Maybe I am wrong, but I believe we should see nice clean surface without any metal pin locks underneath . When I sit on a chair I can see this problem and cover it with some white tape is not my taste. What do you think please? Thank you. Kind regards . Petr.
Yes well spotted, I agree it does spoil the finish. I think it would be over kill to cover the bottom with Side panel or splash back. What I have done in another situation is to fill the holes with a drywall finishing filler and then pained over with a gloss paint. Colour matching was difficult but because of the angle that you view it it turned out not too bad but still noticeable. Sorry that is the best I can offer. Thanks for your comment, much appreciated. Regards Matt
I know what you mean, walls not straight, corners not square and floors not level all present challenges and all to often this is the case. Creative thinking according to the specific circumstance can very often solve the problem. Floors that are not level can be solved with self-levelling cement but this can be tricky to apply and very often professional help is needed. Good point, thanks for the comment.
Comments are most welcome, try this and send us some feedback☺️ Why not visit our channel and browse through our other videos? th-cam.com/users/AnnErasmus
Thanks for this, most useful
This was the most value-saturated video I have watched in a long time
You are most welcome, thanks for your feedback, much appreciated 😊👍
I've watched so many videos of people installing these cabinets and you are the only one who actually showed the brackets on the back of the cabinets, or mentioned the washers to keep the rail from twisting. Thank you.
Thank you for your feedback, much appreciated. Hope your project turns out well. Kind regards - Matt
Best video regarding IKEA kitchen cupboards!!! Well explained.. much appreciated!
You are most welcome, thanks for your feedback 😊👍
A great amount of detail. Just what I was looking for. I have watched many videos and this one was the most informative. Thank you.
You are most welcome, thanks for the comment 👍😊
Thank you for this very detailed explanation. I appreciate the step by step guide for those who have never done this before. I’ll add a suggestion I found helpful from a different channel… It is that you can double the weight load capacity of the rails by adding an additional screw just under the bottom of the rail at each stud, thereby supporting it from below, in addition to the intended screw within the rail. It makes sense to me and I plan to do this with my kitchen installation planned in a couple weeks.
You are most welcome and thank you for sharing the additional information 😊👍
20:54 this was the most important information from your very thorough video. I cant even start because I don’t know the answer to this obvious question. Every video is “screw it into the studs” and leave out the obvious problem. Imagine all these naive customers buying expensive kitchens and getting this problem.
The only solution I have stumbled upon is to cut out the dry wall, make your own stud or baton between studs, replace the dry wall.
Exactly, thanks for your insight
Matt your video is excellent , the most useful ikea kitchen how to video out there
Many thanks for your kind words, much appreciated 😊👍
There can’t be more nice way to explain IKEA kitchen cabinet system installation methodology. The best:):):)
Thank you for your kind comments, much appreciated. 👍
Thank you for giving me the confidence to do this myself and not spend hundreds in installation fees!
You are most welcome, good luck with your project 😊👍
You are a lifesaver! Thank you so much. I can't express enough how helpful your video was. Even better than IKEA.
You are most welcome, thanks for your feedback 👍😊
Thank you sir. Very informative. Just bought new kitchen.
You are welcome 😊👍
all solid tips, im sure this is going to save me from a major headache!
Good luck, hope it goes well 👍😊
This is such a brilliant tutorial.. thank you!
You are most welcome 😊👍
GREAT video, very detailed and very clear in your descriptions. Super helpful!
Thanks for the comments, much appreciated 👍
Very useful info thanks so much I am about to install my ikea kitchen Greeting from Switzerland
You are most welcome, good luck 👍😊
Thank you so much!! I finally know how to install the top rail! 🙏
You are most welcome, thanks for your feedback 😊👍
This is a great video with practical information
Thanks for your feedback, much appreciated 👍😊
just pickup up a complete kitchen ,cant wait to assemble now
Good luck, best wishes 👍😊
@@AnnErasmus my first kitchen i made with plywood and a skill saw 30 years ago im just about to remove it.i had no money for years but i paid the place off first.
thats the information thar i was looking for....thank you so much....
You are most welcome, thanks for the comment 👍😊
Great info will be choosing ikea kitchen when I renovated thanks for the time you put into this video
You are most welcome, thanks for the feedback 😊👍
To find the studs in the wall, I just use a strong magnet. It will stick to the drywall screws. Works like a charm.
Thank you for sharing 😊👍
Great video. I'm just about to fit a new kitchen using the rail system and I found it really useful with lots of tips. Thank you. 👍
You are most welcome, thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you for your very clear instructions and helpful tips.
You are most welcome
One of the best: very confidence-building. Thanks
Thank you very much for your comment, much appreciated 👍
great informative video, thanks so much for sharing 👍
You are most welcome, thanks for your feedback 😊👍
An installer here in Canada recommended once thevrail is installed adding another screw under the rail set proud to add additional support.
Good idea, thanks for sharing 👍😊
That's exactly what we did especially since our studs weren't all 16 inches on center and I wanted that strength. Wonder if the same Canadian handyman showed us the same trick...lol
Thank you for this, it was very informative. Loved it!
You are most welcome, thanks for the feedback 😊👍
Bought 5,000$ worth of cabinets waiting on delivery was a little nervous about the installation you described the process perfectly now I’m confident wife and I can do it
She sounds like a keeper, haha. Good luck with the project, thanks for your comment- kind regards Matt
how was the install?
@@spearson822 went very well transformed my whole house was pretty easy getting ready to put cabinets in my laundry room also
thank you for sharing your experience, really useful, much appreciated pal
getting my hands dirty next week with our new kitchen project
shame on you who disliked this video
Thanks Alex for your encouraging comment, much appreciated. Hope your project goes well, good luck 😊👍
Thanks for the video. Helpful
You are most welcome 😊👍
This product looks great on paper. Tons of parts with some pictures. But let`s be realistic here...getting it on the wall level and plumb and working with crooked walls and floors...ha ha believe me, I have been in the cabinet business for 35 years and have installed designed built many jobs. I did an Ikea kitchen for my daughters reno and this was not an easy task as you say. Had to improvise at every turn. Took three times longer than traditionally built cabinets. For you all out there..be prepared. It`s a challenge.
Thanks for sharing your experiences, much appreciated 👍
one of the great video !!
Thanks 😊👍
Excellent video and advise, thank you!
You are most welcome, thanks for the comment👍
Thanks for this video, really helpful
You are welcome
Good tips thank you for the video
No problem 👍
...very well done!
Many thanks for your feedback, it is much appreciated 😊👍
Thank you, it's very well explained! Your video is really easeful :)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks my China , sitting here in Norway from SA 💪
You are most welcome ☺️ Is Ikea as popular there as it is in other parts of the world. Thanks for the comment, bakgat👍
Well done. Very detailed video.
Thanks very much for your support, much appreciated 👍
Thank you from John in Denmark
👍
Great video, If you take your time and are not to ham fisted with Ikea flatpacks anyone can do a great job, and make it look professional, Ikeas units are exceptional. I would recommend them without hesitation.
Thanks for the comment, I agree completely 👍
you think the Ikea cabinets are maybe better than the cheap discount cabinets from the store
if you have steel studs, you need regular stud screws with fine thread. what you showed - self-drilling screws - are for metal sheet that is much thicker than studs.
Thanks for sharing 👍😊
There is actually a point to screwing at 30cm even if it's just drywall.
First of all, with a proper drywall plug/screw it _will_ hold weight and it _will_ combat forces pulling away from the wall.
2nd, it prevents twisting of the rail. Of course we'd like to think rails keep perfectly straight. But in reality there will be some play on it.
But using bigger screws where you are sure of your studs was a good idea, yes. And if you do the supporting legs properly that makes a lot of difference as well of course.
You made some good points, thank you for sharing 👍
Great video!! Do you know if the feet are able to be cut? With the feet it would be a tad too high for my space. Thanks!
Sorry I don't know the answer, May I suggest you experiment cutting one leg and see if it is feasible without affecting strength and stability? Thanks for your comment.
Wonder if instead of using the legs you could build boxes instead? Might have to rip 2x4s into the exact height you need and fasten them to the ground (2x4s are around 8.89 cm so higher than legs to begin with), then hang cabinets by the rail and fasten them to the box by drilling through the bottom of the cabinet. If you build be box out you can then simply attach your toekicks directly to the 2x4s.
Very good sir, very good.
You are welcome 😊👍
I'm planning my new kitchen and at first, I was afraid (I was almost petrified) since I thought no legs are involved and I can't put cabinets flush against the wall if they sat directly on the floor since there are heating pipes and tiling running along the bottom of the wall, some 15 cm above the floor. But legs will provide enough of a lift to jump across that so the back of the cabinets WILL be against the wall despite the piping.
Adding four legs to each cabinet and securing them to the rail will provide all the load bearing strength I will need; my walls are made of reinforced concrete so no issues there :D I'm almost confident I could do all of this by myself. :)
Thanks for your feedback, much appreciated. May I suggest you also watch this video, regarding legs and plinth heights th-cam.com/video/Ln2VB-q6ti0/w-d-xo.html
very good video, thanks man
You are most welcome, thanks for your comment
I saw another person fixing another screw underneath the edge of the rail. So effectively double the strength
👍😊
Great video, most helpful 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Dankie meneer, very useful information
You are most welcome, that's a good name you have there 👍😁
Thanks for all the great tips. Living in Australia there’s so little DIY content to suit us because the tradies guard their knowledge….there’s a lot of US content on TH-cam but it’s all in feet and inches :) and the standards are obviously not the same.
You are most welcome 👍😊
Very informative!
Thank you for your comment, much appreciated
Thank you for a Great, easy to follow video. So, when preparing to load cabinet onto the lower rail, do I install all 4
feet @7cm height..install cabinet , then adjust the feet?…Or..Install only the 2 front feet @8cm, then adjust up or down 1cm? I ask this because the feet are sold in boxes of 2 only.(?Also-for quicker rail installation, wouldn’t it be simpler to add height of rail to 84cm (making top of rail mark @89.5cm)? Any idea why the bottom of the rail is used for this measurement? My kitchen was installed without a lower rail and I find the drawers frequently scraping together when opening and closing. I plan on removing the cabinets, installing the rail and realigning all properly in hopes of correcting the drawer issue. Thank you in advance for your kind advice.
Thank you for your kind words. To answer your questions in order:-
1. Concerning the feet, I would put on all 4 then hang on rail. If you only have 2 legs the cabinets are less stable especially when loading heavy stuff into them with can lead to distortion and possible problems with doors and drawers. If you intend putting the back feet on after hanging it will be difficult to get them on, much easier to put on all 4 first and them adjust to level and finally check all 4 are just touching the floor so that the cabinets are stable before loading. I also prefer the feet to be taking a good proportion of the weight especially if the rail is only secured every 60cm on studs, as was the case for me.
2. I agree adding feet may solve your drawer problems but you will need to check that the cabinets are not out of square. Because they may have been twisted out of square when they were loaded without feet or assembled out of square. Many people are not aware that the corners of the IKEA cabinets need to be squared up before the back is nailed on. The backing is what keeps the cabinet square.
I agree with you that the top of the rail should be the reference height, I don't know why they use the bottom?
Thanks for taking time to answer. K will use 4 feet before placing cabinet on the rail. Maybe the back wall isnt level and that has thrown the drawers off. I will be attentive and use spacers when installing the rail. Thank again! All the best to you!
With regard to a sink unit being beside another unit that doesn't have a bar across the front. The bar sits on top of the cabinet so it raises the counter top. There is then a gap at the other cabinet where the worktop doesn't touch the edge. What can you do? Sink the bar into the cabinet so it is flush with the edges?
Sorry I haven't experienced this but your plan sounds good to me. Thanks for sharing 😊👍
In my case I have a gap between the cabinets, due to my washing machine and dryer. Would you cut the rail and leave a gap? Or just continue the rail all the way?
Thanks for all your comments, much appreciated. Personally I would continue the rail through the washing machine
space. In my view that will provide more strength and be easier to keep the same level. Hope this helps, good luck 😊👍
@@AnnErasmus thanks for the reply. I was thinking the same as I don’t have a flush wall. This will make sure the rail is sitting at the right gap from the wall.
thank you! ~best
You are most welcome ☺️
Thank you ,nice video.
I have just installed IKEA upper wall kitchen cabinets and found out that metal pin locks facing down towards the bench.
You have same situation with your upper wall cabinet ,I can see it while you are standing in front of it.
How do you cover these pin locks please?? I think these locks should be in side of the cabinet and this is design error.
Maybe I am wrong, but I believe we should see nice clean surface without any metal pin locks underneath .
When I sit on a chair I can see this problem and cover it with some white tape is not my taste.
What do you think please?
Thank you.
Kind regards .
Petr.
Yes well spotted, I agree it does spoil the finish. I think it would be over kill to cover the bottom with Side panel or splash back. What I have done in another situation is to fill the holes with a drywall finishing filler and then pained over with a gloss paint. Colour matching was difficult but because of the angle that you view it it turned out not too bad but still noticeable. Sorry that is the best I can offer. Thanks for your comment, much appreciated.
Regards Matt
@@AnnErasmus Thank you.I will use side panel to cover it up.
Regards. Petr.
@@petrtrain7942 Hope it works out well!
very good 👍
Thanks mate👍
Great vid!
Thanks Dominic, much appreciated👍
Thanks Pro
You are most welcome 👍😊
Thank you sir
You are most welcome
👍 - _also_ for the YT algo! 😊
Correct
Great if everything is level, but what if it issnt....🤔
I know what you mean, walls not straight, corners not square and floors not level all present challenges and all to often this is the case. Creative thinking according to the specific circumstance can very often solve the problem. Floors that are not level can be solved with self-levelling cement but this can be tricky to apply and very often professional help is needed. Good point, thanks for the comment.
Good lad
👍😊
thk
😊👍
Value clip.
Many thanks, much appreciated 😊👍
Много не нужных фраз и лишних слов. Нет по делу толком.😏🙄
👍
This is very comprehensive thanks alot
you are most welcome
Thank you from John in Denmark
You are most welcome, stay safe 👍