Now this is put together like the foreman's car. Every bolt is installed AND it gets the Bob Ross treatment. Y'all think there is a market for a dual AOS system, maybe just the brackets to mount two Radium AOS cans? Bundle with your spacers or pans. Front of the DE is perfect for it with that coolant hose running right underneath your catch can kit. HR and VHR look like it'd take some creativity. Keep oil out the manifold whether under vacuum or atmospheric, never have to empty cans, less top off oil needed.
So what you're saying is that - If I have stock endlinks and aftermarket bar - I should do my coilovers/control arms/all that stuff FIRST... THEN...add the adjustable endlinks + alignment as the final puzzle piece? ALSO: Can you share from your track/auto-x experience: Aftermarket Swaybar FRONT + STOCK swaybar rear vs. Aftermarket F+R? It's an ongoing / seemingly unsolvable debate. Personally I like to retain as much compliance on the backend on our "build back better" crappy roads... ( also believe the stock rear diff/traction control is a contributing factor under throttle tip in during corner exit ).
From my personal experience stock rear bar was far better for me, with aftermarket front and rear I'd get tons of corner entry oversteer and it just didn't feel good to me so I went back to stock and it fixed my problems. It's also dependent on rear spring rate I was about 14k front and 8k rear true coilover style I believe. This is for a road racing track car not an autox car, for autox I would do aftermarket front and rear because rotation is key
@@dylanBehrproductions Wow that helps! I'll stick with the stock rear bar and focus on new coilovers and replacing worn front upper control arms.... then it will be the collar inserts as the cheap fix for the rear subframe...
@07wrxtr1 if you're tracking the car do the power compression arm bushings too they flex a ton from the factory and it affects caster and takes all the load from braking, I did full spl front bushings and it felt way better after
I have a 35mm Z1 sway bar and bracket and my bracket keep on snapping in half every 6 month or so. any thought? I don't even track or race, it my daily car.
yall should do a video about the tilton cmc and Z1 clutch lines on a z33
Now this is put together like the foreman's car. Every bolt is installed AND it gets the Bob Ross treatment. Y'all think there is a market for a dual AOS system, maybe just the brackets to mount two Radium AOS cans? Bundle with your spacers or pans. Front of the DE is perfect for it with that coolant hose running right underneath your catch can kit. HR and VHR look like it'd take some creativity. Keep oil out the manifold whether under vacuum or atmospheric, never have to empty cans, less top off oil needed.
😂 the giveaway truck just behind 👍🏽
So what you're saying is that - If I have stock endlinks and aftermarket bar - I should do my coilovers/control arms/all that stuff FIRST... THEN...add the adjustable endlinks + alignment as the final puzzle piece?
ALSO: Can you share from your track/auto-x experience: Aftermarket Swaybar FRONT + STOCK swaybar rear vs. Aftermarket F+R? It's an ongoing / seemingly unsolvable debate. Personally I like to retain as much compliance on the backend on our "build back better" crappy roads... ( also believe the stock rear diff/traction control is a contributing factor under throttle tip in during corner exit ).
From my personal experience stock rear bar was far better for me, with aftermarket front and rear I'd get tons of corner entry oversteer and it just didn't feel good to me so I went back to stock and it fixed my problems. It's also dependent on rear spring rate I was about 14k front and 8k rear true coilover style I believe. This is for a road racing track car not an autox car, for autox I would do aftermarket front and rear because rotation is key
@@dylanBehrproductions Wow that helps! I'll stick with the stock rear bar and focus on new coilovers and replacing worn front upper control arms.... then it will be the collar inserts as the cheap fix for the rear subframe...
@07wrxtr1 if you're tracking the car do the power compression arm bushings too they flex a ton from the factory and it affects caster and takes all the load from braking, I did full spl front bushings and it felt way better after
I have a 35mm Z1 sway bar and bracket and my bracket keep on snapping in half every 6 month or so. any thought? I don't even track or race, it my daily car.
You probably have preload, or check the endlink to sway bar nuts and see if they are tight. Same thing happened to me you must tighten that bolt
my Z1 Front swaybar brackets start to cracking. Anyone has similar situation? I have them for a while and I doubt there's no part warranty, is there?
I like how they dont comment on this to try and help a customer ..i realized z1 doesnt really car
How to adjust it when you have air suspension?