Thanks Eli helped heaps. If you have to do it again, I discovered instead of detaching and attaching the line to the power steering gearbox with the crows foot you can go through the side of the front wheel well with a regular wrench as it’s pretty accessible that way and can use a bit more force if it’s on there tight as mine was.
Nice Video Eli, yes Daniel, I had a difficult time getting the flare nut back on the gearbox. After 20 min and my fingers bleeding trying to get that nut level to engage the threads, I went back to this vid and I saw your suggestion Daniel, that how I got a more level look at the top of the gearbox and got the flare line threaded in 10 min. Appreciate you Daniel for the suggestion and Eli for the vid. Took me about 3.5 hrs and i feel sure I can do it next time in 2.5 hrs.
Great video with excellent suggestions! Like @danielwilkinson decided to do, I also went through the wheel-well for the high pressure line on the gearbox. A standard 17mm wrench took it right off without any drama (it's only supposed to be torqued to 26ft-lbs). I was able to take the pump and lines out as a unit and then disassembled/reassembled everything on the bench. All in all this was fairly straight forward. It's only challenging if you don't have the correct tools. Thanks again!
I appreciate these videos, but the vane pump on a 1FZ can be removed without completely removing the pressure feed tube (unless you really want to and have extra gaskets). Also, the 22mm banjo bolt is the first thing I crack. much easier to break those connections loose while mounted in the truck. I also completly pull the reservoir, to more easily capture the fluid.
I attempted this and the bottom nut gave before the 22 mm did. So I was forced to take the high pressure line out, then hold lower but with a channel lock, and it came off easily with an impact.
I've been having a power steering leak for a while. I think I narrowed down to the banjo bolt at 16:30. I thought there would have been a seal or gasket in the general area, but it's just that double washer. Could that fail and leak? Great video btw.
hey, after remooving PS Pump you got oil or any kind of fluid in chamber where main drive gear is working iwth another gear? ( back side of oil pump) ?
HEY AFTER LOOSEN THE BOLTS THAT HOLD PUMP (X2) TO LOWER ENGINE, DOES THE PUMP SLIDE OUT? THE ONE I WORK ON IS STUCK ON AFTER TAKING HOSES OFF AND TWO #14 BOLTS.
The pump is held on by two nuts, one on the top, one on the bottom. After you take those off, it should slide off the studs. If yours is stuck you should be able to rock it by reaching your hand down from the top.
I believe the Rein pressure hose on rock auto (PSH0328) is essentially the OEM part for much cheaper than the one you get direct from Toyota. Others have used the gates hose without issue, but reported it seemed cheaper. The Rein seems high quality and has identical fittings/etc. You can find more details on ih8mud, but that seems to be the go-to replacement for those not wanting to spend so much on the true OEM part. Sorry if I was too late replying!
has it still been fixed? Since you did this the 3rd time? OR have you had to go back and re-do it again? The reason I ask is I'm getting ready to install an "AFTERMARKET" New PSP on my 1996 FJ80 LC.
It's been great. No problems at all after this install. Do not install a 3rd party pump! That's why I had to replace mine three times! Get the Toyota OEM one ($$) or pull your current one and rebuild it with a kit.
Did you drain all the power steering fluid first? I'm about to replace mine and not sure if i should get a catch can ready and get some more fluid from a shop
Hi Eli - Great video! Thanks for sharing your time. Wanted to ask a question regarding the banjo-bolt, as I’ve seen several folks on the IH8MUD site mention this - It seems that when you try to loosen the banjo-bolt, the high-pressure port comes loose instead. One suggested that this may have been the source of a leak after the repair. I’m curious if you had this problem the first time around? Sounds like it would be best to avoid it, if at all possible. Thoughts?
you could always heat the gear up before installing it on the new pump. I usually stick gears/ bearings etc. in the oven at 80 degrees C and they'll slide on with minimal effort. Saves having to use the hammer too much.
Thanks Eli helped heaps. If you have to do it again, I discovered instead of detaching and attaching the line to the power steering gearbox with the crows foot you can go through the side of the front wheel well with a regular wrench as it’s pretty accessible that way and can use a bit more force if it’s on there tight as mine was.
Nice Video Eli, yes Daniel, I had a difficult time getting the flare nut back on the gearbox. After 20 min and my fingers bleeding trying to get that nut level to engage the threads, I went back to this vid and I saw your suggestion Daniel, that how I got a more level look at the top of the gearbox and got the flare line threaded in 10 min. Appreciate you Daniel for the suggestion and Eli for the vid. Took me about 3.5 hrs and i feel sure I can do it next time in 2.5 hrs.
@@jessstrunk6102I have an better trick for those who don't have a crows foot and can be loosened from the top in a few seconds
Great video with excellent suggestions! Like @danielwilkinson decided to do, I also went through the wheel-well for the high pressure line on the gearbox. A standard 17mm wrench took it right off without any drama (it's only supposed to be torqued to 26ft-lbs). I was able to take the pump and lines out as a unit and then disassembled/reassembled everything on the bench. All in all this was fairly straight forward. It's only challenging if you don't have the correct tools. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video, this project was a lot easier following each step on top of reading the forum
Finished rebuilding my pump yesterday. Couldn't have done it without this video. Thank you.
Just a quick thank you for the helpful video. That nut holding on the gear was a bear for me to remove.
I could have used this video last week but well done subbed RFB on mud
I can't save everyone, but I can try.
This video is great, thank you! According to my FSM the high pressure hose connection is 42 ft lbs, not 54 per your video? Maybe I'm reading it wrong.
I appreciate these videos, but the vane pump on a 1FZ can be removed without completely removing the pressure feed tube (unless you really want to and have extra gaskets). Also, the 22mm banjo bolt is the first thing I crack. much easier to break those connections loose while mounted in the truck. I also completly pull the reservoir, to more easily capture the fluid.
I attempted this and the bottom nut gave before the 22 mm did. So I was forced to take the high pressure line out, then hold lower but with a channel lock, and it came off easily with an impact.
I've been having a power steering leak for a while. I think I narrowed down to the banjo bolt at 16:30. I thought there would have been a seal or gasket in the general area, but it's just that double washer. Could that fail and leak? Great video btw.
Hate how none of these videos don’t show the most important part. Draining the power steering fluid from the system.
I've removed all the bolts and the pump isn't budging could there be any other bolts holding the pump?
hey, after remooving PS Pump you got oil or any kind of fluid in chamber where main drive gear is working iwth another gear? ( back side of oil pump) ?
Beautiful video, thank you.
Hi Eli .. where do you find the kits to rebuild the pumps?
ebay
HEY AFTER LOOSEN THE BOLTS THAT HOLD PUMP (X2) TO LOWER ENGINE, DOES THE PUMP SLIDE OUT? THE ONE I WORK ON IS STUCK ON AFTER TAKING HOSES OFF AND TWO #14 BOLTS.
The pump is held on by two nuts, one on the top, one on the bottom. After you take those off, it should slide off the studs. If yours is stuck you should be able to rock it by reaching your hand down from the top.
Would a aftermarket pressure hose do the job? Or just get oem one?
I believe the Rein pressure hose on rock auto (PSH0328) is essentially the OEM part for much cheaper than the one you get direct from Toyota. Others have used the gates hose without issue, but reported it seemed cheaper. The Rein seems high quality and has identical fittings/etc. You can find more details on ih8mud, but that seems to be the go-to replacement for those not wanting to spend so much on the true OEM part. Sorry if I was too late replying!
has it still been fixed? Since you did this the 3rd time? OR have you had to go back and re-do it again? The reason I ask is I'm getting ready to install an "AFTERMARKET" New PSP on my 1996 FJ80 LC.
It's been great. No problems at all after this install. Do not install a 3rd party pump! That's why I had to replace mine three times! Get the Toyota OEM one ($$) or pull your current one and rebuild it with a kit.
Eli Z did you try AT-205 reseal or any equivalent before you replaced the pump? Good video btw
Nope, I replaced it immediately.
@@EliZabielski What about a OEM refurbished unit from a company like BBB industries?
Did you drain all the power steering fluid first? I'm about to replace mine and not sure if i should get a catch can ready and get some more fluid from a shop
yes.
Hi Eli - Great video! Thanks for sharing your time. Wanted to ask a question regarding the banjo-bolt, as I’ve seen several folks on the IH8MUD site mention this - It seems that when you try to loosen the banjo-bolt, the high-pressure port comes loose instead. One suggested that this may have been the source of a leak after the repair. I’m curious if you had this problem the first time around? Sounds like it would be best to avoid it, if at all possible. Thoughts?
you could always heat the gear up before installing it on the new pump. I usually stick gears/ bearings etc. in the oven at 80 degrees C and they'll slide on with minimal effort. Saves having to use the hammer too much.
using an old coffee pot heating element also works great for these type of situations and keeps the wifey happy
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