My first bandsaw was a Delta 14in cast iron from about 20yrs ago. This machine has all of the upgrades that I wanted which is why I bought it. It is a far superior machine and it has LOTS of power. I have had one of the first one of these available in Canada and I have used it pretty hard with no issues. Initial adjustments were a bit tricky but so were they with my Delta. Absolutely recommended.
Thanks Paul - when properly adjusted, it works very well. My problem is getting it adjusted, especially when it's your first "big boy" band saw and not really knowing what you are doing :) Thanks for watching!
Agree with Paul. I had a mid 90's Delta like Norm on Yankee workshop and rarely used it. So damn difficult to set up. The Rikon is a dream compared to it. Use it often, with the Delta I would do everything to avoid it.
@@chuckbogart9382 Thanks Chuck! Not having an earlier model I can't compare them, but once properly adjusted, the Rikon is an excellent machine! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this video even though it saddens me. I expected it to be much improved over mine. Not so much, it seems. I have a 10-325, one of the green ones. I bought it because a friend had one and it impressed me for resawing and the magazine reviewers loved it. Well, there is a difference between my friend's saw and mine. I think Rikon started cutting corners to speed production to meet demand after the reviews. My biggest issue is the warped table. Rikon sent me another one, it didn't match the original and was also warped. The Allen key guide adjusters are a perpetual pain, so much so that I dread changing blades. The lower guide is so hard to reach, I removed the guard to have any chance of making adjustments. Rikon eliminated the Allen screws but didn't improve much. Loosen the guide post to raise or lower it and just hope the guides are in position when you tighten the post again. Looks like they haven't improved that, either. You say the light is optional. It was standard on mine so I paid for it. Completely useless. *It's on the back of the saw!* What were they thinking? Dust collection is about the same as yours, no improvement there. I made my own mobile base. Larger casters make it much easier to move the saw. It may be the best part of my saw. I bought this saw for it's resaw ability. Now, I rarely do any resawing. I wish I had my old Delta back.
I found that the gage on the fence rail could be dialed in by filing the 2 holes in the cast iron table to the rear just slightly makes it easier to align to the blade. I felt the same way about the dust collector port. I installed 2 small angle brackets with pop rivets. I also put foam gasket material along the top of the bottom cabinet helped to eliminate a lot of dust. Great in-depth article.
Its honestly an amazing unit for the price. A few tips. 1. Put a note above the power switch to check the guide bearings each time you adjust height. 2. Get a magnetic flashlight to stick to the unit. This helps adjust all the bearings in a few seconds by shining light and looking at the gap. 3. Use a simple caliper for rough distances from the fence to the blade. You have to plane it with the band marks in the lumber anyways so just always go slightly larger.
Thanks Mark - I agree, it's a great unit overall, just some little things that might it a little difficult to use. Thanks for the tip and for watching!
The door on the lower storage cabinet hsa a very small gap that can be sead with thin foam tap. Also the lower bandsaw door needs to be sealed at the top edge which will make less saw dust to collect at the bottom. These are the things I did to my Rikon 10-326.
Good video 👍. I’m currently finishing the setup of my 10-324 which has the open base cabinet. Like you, I found the machine to be top heavy and the narrow width of the base cabinet allows for it to tip forward. I will be adding outriggers to the legs giving the base a wider footprint along the narrow part of the base. Thanks for sharing
A good honest review. I recently bought this exact model after initially considering laguna brand. But this was on a good sale at woodcraft and reviews were good too. Also the reviews and directions from Alex Snodgrass are really helpful and he does have a video as well to set this saw to perform perfectly. As I understand, almost every bandsaw requires tuning and getting used to that and as long as it has the basic things like power and cast iron wheels, tables, it can be made to work perfectly. I experienced the same issue too where moving the blade guard up and down seem to disturb the guide bearing adjustments sometimes...but this isn't a deal breaker. Hoping they fix it soon
Thanks -- I appreciate the feedback. I recently re-watching Alex's video on this model and it helped a lot now that I sort of understand how the machine works. I'm getting better at tuning it, but my results are still hit or miss -- still too inconsistent to be trusted for super critical cutting IMHO. Thanks for watching!
I have had this same model Rikon band saw and I had problems with it from day one. I agree with you that that the upper guide support has to much slop when it is moved up and down. The trunion allows the table to shift when you are adjusting it which makes it nearly impossible to set an angle. The lock on the table is not secure. Adjusting the bottom thrust bearing is hard. If there were a longer stem on the lock knob it would be better. Why isn’t there a second dust port on the saw near the lower guide bearings? My biggest complaint is about the fence. It is nearly impossible to get the fence square to the table and parallel to the blade. I wish that I had test driven this tool before I bought it. the plus side the motor has enough power for the size of the saw.
Hi Robert - I certainly share your pain, though I've not had a problem with my fence that I'm aware of. I recently got a 3/8" 4TPI blade and it resaws with a lot more repeatability than previous blades, including the resaw king. Perhaps that might you out as well. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I'm considering getting one and this was very helpful. Your concerns about the guide bearings are the first I've heard on that issue and make a lot of sense. I have no experience with Rikon band saws but it seems to me that the allen wrench style, with the threaded side knob adjusters rather than springs, are a much better and more accurate way to dial them in and hold them still while you tighten it down. For the issue with the fence not allowing the throat to drop down that John mentioned below... I've seen home made fences on other saws where they just made a cut out for it to drop down. I'm wondering if this one could just be notched out in the same way to allow for that. As for the dust collection issue, I'm wondering if it's simply a problem with the cabinet being too air tight. I've seen this issue with other saws and equipment. Most dust collectors are high volume, low pressure (or suction), and require a large volume of air flow in order to carry the dust along. If there's only a small opening where the blade goes down into the lower cabinet, then there won't be enough air going in, and going to the dust port. It may seem counter intuitive, but there needs to be a few strategically placed vents along the opposite side so you get a higher volume of cross flow to pull the dust off the blade and keep it from settling in the bottom. It's surprising that even some of the higher end companies don't seem to realize this.
Excellent points - I thought the tooless adjustment would make it easier but I'm questioning that logic now. I would think the unit would pull all the air through the throat plate but perhaps not? Thanks for watching!
Your assessment is ver accurate! Good Job! I thought the problem was me, but you proved all those issues are designed into the Machine. Never the less I love mine. The 1st collection is very marginal but similar to other machines I own.
Thanks Robert -- I don't know that I "proved" they are designed in, but many people seem to have the same issues, so a trend is a trend ;) Thanks for watching!
The dust collection system helps prevent airborne dust in your shop but I don't think you can expect it to suck your machine out clean. To easily adjust the lower rear guide bearing bring your left hand in along the left side of the blade and push the button with your middle finger. Loosen and tighten the lock with your right. Open the lower door and look straight in. There is a square hole where you can see the belt tensioning rod. This is where your cabinet dust is coming from. Good video. there is more adjustability to these things than is stated in the manual which is a good thing. Your issues are all addressable. Keep playing with it you're almost there. Just got to scratch your head a couple more times.
Thanks Jim. I got a new blade and spent an hour or so cleaning and adjusting everything. When properly adjusted, it cuts very well. I just need to figure out all the variables to ensure I get it adjusted properly every time. Thanks for watching!
I have that same bandsaw and basically have the same likes and dislikes as you do. But over all, I really like it and am happy with its performance. Also note that if the drive belt is too tight, it sometimes struggles in start up. So the right tension of the drive belt is important. Just tight enough that it don't slip.
Nice review but I have to say I've owned a lot of band saws and the things you don't like about the rikon are what makes it a nice saw. It has lots of adjustability in it. My last Delta hardly had any adjustment for the thrust bearing or guide bearings and you had to redo them every time you change the height. The rikon is a Dream by comparison. The one thing I really don't like it is the fence not allowing the throat to come down further. That's really the only complaint I have.
Hi John - thanks for the input. I would say I was not complaining about the amount of adjustment options, but, more about how hard it was to adjust accurately and repeatedly. When adjusted properly, the saw cuts like a dream - I have no complaints about that. However, so far I'm only about 20% successful getting it adjusted properly for resawing. I'm guessing that's more due to my inexperience, but I still think the saw could be easier to set up for repeated cuts. Nevertheless, it is a good saw. Thanks for watching!
I believe the fence is designed to rotate 90 degrees clockwise (as you're facing the front of the machine), so that the throat can fully deploy downward.
Dust collection; my band saw did not have brushes on both wheels to scrape off the excess dust. If you can get the Felder brushes with little right angle mountings -requires some metal work and fix a split-forked piece of plastic pipe to house the blade some where on the bottom wheel; that will help the dust problem. If you take a plastic pipe and hack saw a narrow V for the blade to pass thru one end that will channel dust away. Make wedges that go on each side of the front lower stand and tap them into position to steady the saw. 3M brand wall hooks will keep the wedges close by when not in use. Drill a small metal working screw at 12:00 oclock above the loose port and use hanger wire to snap the black plastic short section of dust port in position.
Thanks Vincent - this model does have brushes on the wheels but they don't seem to be great. I will check out your recommendation and modify the dust port. Thanks for watching!
On the fence guide adjusting screw, the end of the screw needs to be looked at and make sure it is rounded, so when it engages on the guide rod, the unevenness of the screw doesn’t make the guide move.
19:50 I have the 10-325 for over 10 years. One my model the fence carrier assembly has a small brass pad (10-325 item #11 - Lock Shoe) that the clamp screw applies pressure to and locks the fence in position. One time while removing the fence I lost this small (about 1/4" x 1/2") brass pad. It fell out and I didn't know it until I started noticing that every time I set the fence it moved slightly. Once I discovered that piece was missing I searched and was able to find it on the floor. Once it was put back in the fence I no longer had the movement when locking down the fence. I looked at the 10-326 manual but don't see this part in the parts list. I know the 325 and 326 table and fence systems are different and nothing is interchangeable. but I wonder how they dealt with the situation on your saw. That shoe ensures that only direct pressure is applied to the rail. With your fence which has the end of the clamp screw contacting the rail I believe the rotary action of the screw will cause the fence to shift every time you lock it down. Sounds like they cheapened it up a tad. I upgraded my 10-325 to use the same bearings as the 10-326 (Rikon sells a kit if anyone is curious). I have not had as much trouble as you describe but I agree they are fidgety. I also do not like the ratchet lever for adjusting the upper guide bearing assembly. It interferes with the fence a lot. I have thought of removing it and just using a socket head cap screw as I rarely have to make an adjustment there so no advantage to that big ratchet lever sticking out there getting in the way all the time. You are correct about ensuring the guide bearing, both lower and upper, are in line with each other and perpendicular to the blade. If the bearings are not directly opposing each other you will go nuts trying to adjust your blade and to get clean, square cuts. That goes for ANY bandsaw, not just the 10-325 or 10-326. My biggest gripes, and I don't see them fixed on your model, are no foot brake, no safety interlock switches on the doors, and my biggest gripe is the placement of the tension release lever. you can not see it nor is there any indication that tension is released from the front of the saw. I like you keep the blade de-tensioned when not in use. So if I walk up to the saw and were to fire it up without checking that the blade is tensioned there is a very good chance that the blade will be ruined and probably also the tires on the wheels along with other parts of the saw. So a interlock switch or something to warn you that blade tension is released should be added.
Thanks Bob - I will have to look if my unit has that pad. I opted to get the Rikon without a foot break over the Laguna with the foot brake to save ~$200. I regret that decision - I really wish I had the foot break. Buyer beware I guess. Thanks for watching and post just a great comment!
I haven't read all of the comments listed and many, if not most of your issues with this bandsaw, are addressed in Alex Snodgrass' video on setting up this very bandsaw. I would imagine that you have since watched that video. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Hi Rick - many of the issues with the saw are design issues that impact the ability to properly set it up, or maintain repeatable cuts. When properly set up, it is an amazing saw. My problem is I get it set up properly like 60% of time and I never know when I'm going to get a bad cut. So I waste material and some times destroy entire projects. I'm getting better at setting it up, but I don't think it should be so hard to maintain good cuts with a saw this expensive. Thanks for watching!
I have a 10-325 and it is a decent saw. I have to say I prefer my 1948 Delta for most things. But the taller re-saw is nice with the Rikon. I just upgraded to the Tool-less guides and so far have not been impressed. The Allen key worked fine and very seldom needed adjustment. I like the larger bearings on the Tool-less up grade.. Having issues with the lower guides not going back far enough to clear the teeth. I ordered new tires and hope that helps but really do not have much hope. Probably the Rikon that come with Tool-less guides are great but the upgrade ones have not made me happy yet. Other than that it is a nice saw and I use it a lot. The Delta is always setup with a 1/4" blade.
when you have a compression screw tightening against the round fence bar you may need to remove the screw and hold a small adjustable square to the screw to check for mating surface to be square with the round bar. Take a fine cut mill bastard file to shave uneven material from the screw end. Being uneven, screws will move along the bar as you tighten screw. On certain similar screws I have made the end of the screw slightly conical but this situation seems to be going for a flat face on the screw end for best results. Don't want to nick the round fence bar. I have a US made 27" Northfield brand band saw for resaw work as 1.1 TPI. 1300 lbs. good luck to you
Your review was thorough and well-organized--much appreciated. A question: how difficult is it to remove the table? The reason I ask is that it generally is easier to adjust the lower guides when the table has been removed.
Hi Cary - thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it. Mechanically the table does not have lot holding it on. However, moving it is a two person job. Not worth it simply to adjust the guide/thrust bearings each time IMHO. But that is an interesting way around the access problem! Thanks for watching.
I found it easier to set the table to 45degrees for guide bearing adjustments on the lower bearings. Also a homemade extension device with the notch cut in the end makes tighting the knobs much easier by keeping one of your two hands from interfering with each other
I have an earlier version of this bandsaw, prior to the knob adjusters being standard equipment, a smaller height fence and also an earlier version of the mobility system. I dealt with the allen wrench style adjustments and upgraded to the knob adjusters. The knob adjusters are much better IMO. I do have to fiddle with the guide arm outboard bearing adjustment way too much(due to the free play in the guide arm) and have resolved to find a solution for that. A previous post below asked how easy was it to remove the table. There are four set screws that attach it to the trunion and it is not all that easy to remove them. Plus you have to remove the bolt that holds the table blade gap steady at the front of the table and also the fence and guide from the front of the table. Too much work. While the space is tight around the lower adjusters, I am able to work them ok. An enhancement that I did to my saw was drill a hole on the outboard side to stick my finger in to push on spring loaded bearing guide. There is little room to get your finger between the guide and the wall of the saw. I used to use a screw driver to pry against the wall to adjust the bearing guide. As for the dust collection, inside the saw there is a metal flap that covers most of the 4" pick up. I suppose that its there for two things. One to make a swirling of the dust as it is drawn out of the lower chamber and two, to increase the velocity of the sawdust as it exits through the narrow opening. I have read where people break the flap off to get better sawdust removal. I still vacuum mine out, but am going to check on that too.
@@cyberreefguru I got the unit setup and it’s definitely very well built. I was upset to see my new cast iron top to have a lot of black stains all over the top. Nothing like what I’ve seen from everyone else’s.
Couple of comments about the 325/326: the optimal blade for this bandsaw is a 3/8” 3 TPI. The max width for nominal performance is 1/2” 4 TPI. This bandsaw is not powered for wide blades and will not track them well. Dust collection is very good on this saw if you have a good dust collector. It will not perform well with shop vacs or 3/4 hp dust collectors. I’ve had 14” Grizzly and Jet bandsaws which were terrible when compared with the Rikon. I would much prefer a 14” Powermatic but for half the price you can’t beat the Rikon.
Hi Bill - thanks for the input. Interesting comments on the blade size. I would think a 1.75hp machine could handle just about any blade size - certainly the thickness of the wood would make a big difference too. I've only bogged the machine down once or twice, but that was 13" of maple resawing. Certainly I need better dust collection, but there are many gaps in the design for air to be pulled from rather than through dust port. I suppose if more air moves, the more dust gets sucked in through all those holes and gaps including the dust port. Anyway, it is a good machine - just a couple quirks IMHO. Thanks for watching!
The problem with blades wider than 1/2 on this machine is tracking because you can’t position wider blades so that the widest part of the gullet is in the center of the wheel. You can successfully resaw most boards within the capacity of this machine with a 3/8” 3tpi blade.
@@billballeza377 Hmmm, interesting. Well, maybe that is source of my problems with resawing. I will get a smaller blade and see what happens. It should be noted, though, the stock blade was 3/4" I think (but it may have been 1/2").
The rack and pinion system for height adjustment of the guard/guide is a disaster in my opinion. All Chinese made bandsaws have it now as far as I can see. Mine clogs up very quickly and that stops it being raised for access to clean it out! It’s a major problem cutting wet wood such as tree trimmings. It ends up with half an hour cleaning for every half an hour use. Serious dust extraction is therefore essential and only use well seasoned wood. My old Startrite bandsaw has a simple clamp and has never been a problem in 30 years without dust extraction.
Hey Jim - thanks for the input. I've not had a problem with my mine clogging, but I have never cut truly wet wood. I have to say, dust collection on this unit leaves a 'little' to desire ;)
@@stevenvachon9745 Hi Steven - I have a 650 cfm unit from Rocker -- should be good enough. Though I'm considering an upgrade since the planer throws the chips harder than the dust collector catches them ;)
@@cyberreefguru I think a new dust collector in order here. I have a Laguna c-flux 1.5hp which is a small cyclone and absolutely love it. It pulls in at least 1300 cfm regardless of the amount of dust in the bag and makes a huge difference of free floating dust in the shop (and the lungs). Emptying the bag could not be easier. The less than ideal dust extraction of this Rikon I'm guessing would be solved with a better dust collector. BTW, I am strongly considering this bandsaw and your video helps tremendously! Thank you 🇨🇦
Thank you for the video. I have the same saw and recently purchased a 3/16" blade for it. Installed the blade, adjusted the tracking/tension and find the guidepost, even with the bearing carriage fully to the back, does not allow proper alignment of the side bearings to be behind the teeth of the blade. I have attempted to "align" the guidepost via instructions in the manual (loosen four bolts on back, screw set screws (incredibly hard to get to) in/out to "tilt" the guidepost then retighten the bolts on the back - I have literally spent two hours messing with these adjustments and have gotten no where - so frustrating) but no matter what I seem to do I cannot get the side bearings behind the teeth. You mention the forward movement of the guidepost when tightening the knob on the back - mine moves fully 1/4" when I tighten the knob - moving the bearings even further forward. I have an email with pics in to Rikon tech support and am awaiting an answer on what to do next. This is my first major dislike with this saw. I will report back if/when tech support gets back to me!
@@cyberreefguru Well, I finally got the saw and blade to the point where I was able to cut out a (practice) bandsaw box yesterday! It was recommended by tech support that I track the blade further to the front of the upper wheel, which in theory should bring the gullets of the blade just in front of the side bearings (ignoring all setup advice on where the blade should "properly" be tracked on the wheel). After tracking the blade to the literal front of the wheel, and still not getting in front of the bearings, I put a level on the BACK of guidepost (that moves the bearings up and down) and found the bottom of the guidepost assembly to be very much angled toward the front of the saw. Loosening the four bolts on the back, I screwed the two lower front set screws anti-clockwise and re-tightened the bolts. After a couple attempts at this I was able to get the guidepost (almost) vertical. The guidepost was likely out of whack from my previous messing with it, but I can't rule out that it was a bit "off" from the beginning. Having made the guidepost vertical, the side bearings were now behind the gullets - to the point that I could track the blade BACK on the wheel, almost to the center! The bearing carriage assembly is still all the way to the back so adjustment is now via tracking on the upper wheel. Yeah! I might have to like the saw again!
Crazy to spend $2,000 for a tool and find out things you don't like about it. Maybe I should start using my cheap tabletop bandsaw before spending thousands of dollars. If it's hollow, I bet the dust comes down the back support that goes all the way from the top to the bottom. The blade probably carries it down to the bottom like an elevator.
I had a very old, desktop bandsaw prior to this one. It's impossible to compare one to the other. And frankly, you will have likes and dislikes for any tool. That's the primary reason I made this video, to help others out -- YMMV :). Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great review. Did you ever figure out how to correct the fence movement when you lock it down? I have the same bandsaw and find it extremely difficult to accurately set the position for cutting tenons.
Hi Dennis - I have not. Someone posted a comment here with some things to try but I have not had time. I will see if I can find the comment. Thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru It sounds like it can be adjusted quite a bit, which is good. I just set mine up. I can see it move side to side ever so slightly up/down but the front/back seems to stay put.
I Liked your review of this band saw. I do have one question though. It has to do with your dislikes. You mentioned you had to fine a solution or would have to do more to solve a problem. Why didn't you talk to Rikon tech support?
Hello Calvin - it never really occurred to me reach out to tech support. I guess I figured most of my issues are operator error or my own in ability to read the manual. That said, I certainly will see what they have to offer online now! Thanks for the tip and for watching!
Have you ever tried a 1/8” blade? I know they say 3/16” to 3/4” blades but they list 1/8” on the tension guide. I haven’t found anyone online line say they’ve tried that blade on these saws.
I have a 14" Rikkon deluxe bandsaw and it is not a good saw esp since it was over 1200 usd on sale and that was over 10 years ago. The guide bearings are not mounted well and the trunnion actually shattered into a handful of small pieces after about 5 hours of use. The trunnion was made out of some cheap cast metal not cast iron. Rikkon nor woodcraft could help. I welded up a solid steel mount to hold the table in place at level. It now has no angle adjust on the table but at least it wont break again. I don't buy anything from Rikkon.
Hi there -- I don't know that I would paint all Rikon products with the same brush, but I will say not all products are create equally. I wish it was easier to attribute successes and failures to one thing or another, but that's not the same. I appreciate your input and experiences and I wish mine were entirely different. Certainly my bandsaw is very well made and has not fallen apart, but it certainly has some "nuances" that I can't seem overcome. Maybe more time and experience is required? Thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru I only get abused by poor design and absent service once. The fact that Rikkon produced such a weak design and then fails to offer a solution is enough for me. If it were a mediocre tool for a cheap price , I would let it go. But 1200 is enough to make a tool that doesn't fall apart. Glad I didn't pay full price for it. Not buying anymore tools from woodcraft either. Even when the bandsaw was at it's best, it was not impressive for a tool half the cost.
@@cyberreefguru I still use my grandfather's table saw that he used regularly as a contractor for 30 years. I put a new belt on it and new bearings and have used it for over 20 years with the original motor. It is near silent and smooth and cuts as good or better than any other saw I've used. I'm stuck with this bandsaw. I bought the Rikkon after reading the reviews in fine woodworking where it won tool of the year. That turned out to be a marketing gimmick. Can't trust them to make recommendations. Used to get FWW every month. Not anymore.
@@cyberreefguru "has some "nuances" that I can't seem overcome" That's called poor design. A bandsaw is not a complex machine and should not be overly difficult to use or adjust and should not require constant adjustment.
Dust collection mod for better than 95% dust collection. th-cam.com/video/QTLZtKWuvGs/w-d-xo.html This link is to a video from Weber wood working channel. He built a vacuum port from a vacuum nozzle that attaches under the table where the blade passes through. Collects the dust at the point of creation. I have made my own and use a shop vac to collect the dust. After cutting when I open the bandsaw doors there is only a pinch of saw dust in the bandsaw.
I have this saw as well. It is really the only manufacturer that has an adjustment for lower wheel tracking. It is terrible. Shouldn’t be there can really impact alignment of blade in the plane of the blade.
The saw has good qualities - I just find it difficult to properly adjust and keep tuned. Not having direct experience with any other machines, I don't know if it is me or the machine. 0.02. Thanks for watching!
I don't own another saw so I have no direct experience, but the Laguna 12|14 and the bx|14 were on my list. If I could do it over again, I would get the bx|14. Hope that helps.
I want a bandsaw. I really do. But, it sounds like even the high end ones, like yours r a PITA. I'm a newbie. So I'm hoping by the time I actually can afford a nice 1, they will have improved. I mean, no one wants something that is so touchie that the thought of changing blades makes u groan. I assume u have watched the Snodgrass video. He's supposed 2 b the bandsaw guru I guess. If not, perhaps there's something there that might help. Thx 4 the vid.
Hi there. Yes, I've watched the video and attempted to get my machine tuned by his recommendations. I have done it, but it was not easy. I don't know if it is me or the machine, but getting everything to work properly every time is very difficult. I have less than 20% success consistently. I would let that put you off though. All tools have a learning curve. Best of luck and thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru My mistake. You are absolutely correct, "Balanced cast iron wheels." I was looking at the 324, not the 326. My apologies to you and your viewers.
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My first bandsaw was a Delta 14in cast iron from about 20yrs ago. This machine has all of the upgrades that I wanted which is why I bought it. It is a far superior machine and it has LOTS of power. I have had one of the first one of these available in Canada and I have used it pretty hard with no issues. Initial adjustments were a bit tricky but so were they with my Delta. Absolutely recommended.
Thanks Paul - when properly adjusted, it works very well. My problem is getting it adjusted, especially when it's your first "big boy" band saw and not really knowing what you are doing :) Thanks for watching!
Agree with Paul. I had a mid 90's Delta like Norm on Yankee workshop and rarely used it. So damn difficult to set up. The Rikon is a dream compared to it. Use it often, with the Delta I would do everything to avoid it.
@@chuckbogart9382 Thanks Chuck! Not having an earlier model I can't compare them, but once properly adjusted, the Rikon is an excellent machine! Thanks for watching.
Those are serious issues you raised. Thank you. You saved me from a costly mistake.
Thanks for watching George!
Thank you for this video even though it saddens me. I expected it to be much improved over mine. Not so much, it seems.
I have a 10-325, one of the green ones. I bought it because a friend had one and it impressed me for resawing and the magazine reviewers loved it. Well, there is a difference between my friend's saw and mine. I think Rikon started cutting corners to speed production to meet demand after the reviews. My biggest issue is the warped table. Rikon sent me another one, it didn't match the original and was also warped.
The Allen key guide adjusters are a perpetual pain, so much so that I dread changing blades. The lower guide is so hard to reach, I removed the guard to have any chance of making adjustments. Rikon eliminated the Allen screws but didn't improve much.
Loosen the guide post to raise or lower it and just hope the guides are in position when you tighten the post again. Looks like they haven't improved that, either.
You say the light is optional. It was standard on mine so I paid for it. Completely useless. *It's on the back of the saw!* What were they thinking?
Dust collection is about the same as yours, no improvement there.
I made my own mobile base. Larger casters make it much easier to move the saw. It may be the best part of my saw.
I bought this saw for it's resaw ability. Now, I rarely do any resawing. I wish I had my old Delta back.
I found that the gage on the fence rail could be dialed in by filing the 2 holes in the cast iron table to the rear just slightly makes it easier to align to the blade. I felt the same way about the dust collector port. I installed 2 small angle brackets with pop rivets. I also put foam gasket material along the top of the bottom cabinet helped to eliminate a lot of dust.
Great in-depth article.
Thanks for the feedback - I will look into that. It a solid machine with a couple idiosyncrasies ;)
Its honestly an amazing unit for the price. A few tips.
1. Put a note above the power switch to check the guide bearings each time you adjust height.
2. Get a magnetic flashlight to stick to the unit. This helps adjust all the bearings in a few seconds by shining light and looking at the gap.
3. Use a simple caliper for rough distances from the fence to the blade. You have to plane it with the band marks in the lumber anyways so just always go slightly larger.
Thanks Mark - I agree, it's a great unit overall, just some little things that might it a little difficult to use. Thanks for the tip and for watching!
Excellent depth of review…appreciated 👊🏻
Thanks Denton and thanks for watching!
The door on the lower storage cabinet hsa a very small gap that can be sead with thin foam tap. Also the lower bandsaw door needs to be sealed at the top edge which will make less saw dust to collect at the bottom. These are the things I did to my Rikon 10-326.
Good video 👍. I’m currently finishing the setup of my 10-324 which has the open base cabinet. Like you, I found the machine to be top heavy and the narrow width of the base cabinet allows for it to tip forward. I will be adding outriggers to the legs giving the base a wider footprint along the narrow part of the base. Thanks for sharing
Thanks and thanks for watching!
A good honest review. I recently bought this exact model after initially considering laguna brand. But this was on a good sale at woodcraft and reviews were good too. Also the reviews and directions from Alex Snodgrass are really helpful and he does have a video as well to set this saw to perform perfectly.
As I understand, almost every bandsaw requires tuning and getting used to that and as long as it has the basic things like power and cast iron wheels, tables, it can be made to work perfectly.
I experienced the same issue too where moving the blade guard up and down seem to disturb the guide bearing adjustments sometimes...but this isn't a deal breaker. Hoping they fix it soon
Thanks -- I appreciate the feedback. I recently re-watching Alex's video on this model and it helped a lot now that I sort of understand how the machine works. I'm getting better at tuning it, but my results are still hit or miss -- still too inconsistent to be trusted for super critical cutting IMHO. Thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru yeah...I am sure we both will get there eventually after a few months (maybe years!) Of hit and miss 🙂
Have the same saw & I completely agree with all your likes and gripes.
Thanks - it is a great saw with a few quirks though. Thanks for watching!
I have had this same model Rikon band saw and I had problems with it from day one. I agree with you that that the upper guide support has to much slop when it is moved up and down. The trunion allows the table to shift when you are adjusting it which makes it nearly impossible to set an angle. The lock on the table is not secure. Adjusting the bottom thrust bearing is hard. If there were a longer stem on the lock knob it would be better. Why isn’t there a second dust port on the saw near the lower guide bearings? My biggest complaint is about the fence. It is nearly impossible to get the fence square to the table and parallel to the blade.
I wish that I had test driven this tool before I bought it.
the plus side the motor has enough power for the size of the saw.
Hi Robert - I certainly share your pain, though I've not had a problem with my fence that I'm aware of. I recently got a 3/8" 4TPI blade and it resaws with a lot more repeatability than previous blades, including the resaw king. Perhaps that might you out as well. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Appreciate the no BS pros and cons.
Thanks for watching Travis!
Great video. I'm considering getting one and this was very helpful. Your concerns about the guide bearings are the first I've heard on that issue and make a lot of sense. I have no experience with Rikon band saws but it seems to me that the allen wrench style, with the threaded side knob adjusters rather than springs, are a much better and more accurate way to dial them in and hold them still while you tighten it down.
For the issue with the fence not allowing the throat to drop down that John mentioned below... I've seen home made fences on other saws where they just made a cut out for it to drop down. I'm wondering if this one could just be notched out in the same way to allow for that.
As for the dust collection issue, I'm wondering if it's simply a problem with the cabinet being too air tight. I've seen this issue with other saws and equipment. Most dust collectors are high volume, low pressure (or suction), and require a large volume of air flow in order to carry the dust along. If there's only a small opening where the blade goes down into the lower cabinet, then there won't be enough air going in, and going to the dust port. It may seem counter intuitive, but there needs to be a few strategically placed vents along the opposite side so you get a higher volume of cross flow to pull the dust off the blade and keep it from settling in the bottom. It's surprising that even some of the higher end companies don't seem to realize this.
Excellent points - I thought the tooless adjustment would make it easier but I'm questioning that logic now. I would think the unit would pull all the air through the throat plate but perhaps not? Thanks for watching!
Your assessment is ver accurate! Good Job! I thought the problem was me, but you proved all those issues are designed into the Machine. Never the less I love mine. The 1st collection is very marginal but similar to other machines I own.
Thanks Robert -- I don't know that I "proved" they are designed in, but many people seem to have the same issues, so a trend is a trend ;) Thanks for watching!
The dust collection system helps prevent airborne dust in your shop but I don't think you can expect it to suck your machine out clean. To easily adjust the lower rear guide bearing bring your left hand in along the left side of the blade and push the button with your middle finger. Loosen and tighten the lock with your right. Open the lower door and look straight in. There is a square hole where you can see the belt tensioning rod. This is where your cabinet dust is coming from. Good video. there is more adjustability to these things than is stated in the manual which is a good thing. Your issues are all addressable. Keep playing with it you're almost there. Just got to scratch your head a couple more times.
Thanks Jim. I got a new blade and spent an hour or so cleaning and adjusting everything. When properly adjusted, it cuts very well. I just need to figure out all the variables to ensure I get it adjusted properly every time. Thanks for watching!
I have that same bandsaw and basically have the same likes and dislikes as you do. But over all, I really like it and am happy with its performance. Also note that if the drive belt is too tight, it sometimes struggles in start up. So the right tension of the drive belt is important. Just tight enough that it don't slip.
Thanks Roy - my belt was loose when I got it, but I haven't had any problems since then. Thanks for watching!
Nice review but I have to say I've owned a lot of band saws and the things you don't like about the rikon are what makes it a nice saw. It has lots of adjustability in it. My last Delta hardly had any adjustment for the thrust bearing or guide bearings and you had to redo them every time you change the height. The rikon is a Dream by comparison. The one thing I really don't like it is the fence not allowing the throat to come down further. That's really the only complaint I have.
Hi John - thanks for the input. I would say I was not complaining about the amount of adjustment options, but, more about how hard it was to adjust accurately and repeatedly. When adjusted properly, the saw cuts like a dream - I have no complaints about that. However, so far I'm only about 20% successful getting it adjusted properly for resawing. I'm guessing that's more due to my inexperience, but I still think the saw could be easier to set up for repeated cuts. Nevertheless, it is a good saw. Thanks for watching!
I believe the fence is designed to rotate 90 degrees clockwise (as you're facing the front of the machine), so that the throat can fully deploy downward.
Dust collection; my band saw did not have brushes on both wheels to scrape off the excess dust. If you can get the Felder brushes with little right angle mountings -requires some metal work
and fix a split-forked piece of plastic pipe to house the blade some where on the bottom wheel; that will help the dust problem. If you take a plastic pipe and hack saw a narrow V for the blade to pass thru one end that will channel dust away.
Make wedges that go on each side of the front lower stand and tap them into position to steady the saw. 3M brand wall hooks will keep the wedges close by when not in use.
Drill a small metal working screw at 12:00 oclock above the loose port and use hanger wire to snap the black plastic short section of dust port in position.
Thanks Vincent - this model does have brushes on the wheels but they don't seem to be great. I will check out your recommendation and modify the dust port. Thanks for watching!
On the fence guide adjusting screw, the end of the screw needs to be looked at and make sure it is rounded, so when it engages on the guide rod, the unevenness of the screw doesn’t make the guide move.
Yep, I need to look into that -- thanks for watching!
19:50 I have the 10-325 for over 10 years. One my model the fence carrier assembly has a small brass pad (10-325 item #11 - Lock Shoe) that the clamp screw applies pressure to and locks the fence in position. One time while removing the fence I lost this small (about 1/4" x 1/2") brass pad. It fell out and I didn't know it until I started noticing that every time I set the fence it moved slightly. Once I discovered that piece was missing I searched and was able to find it on the floor. Once it was put back in the fence I no longer had the movement when locking down the fence. I looked at the 10-326 manual but don't see this part in the parts list. I know the 325 and 326 table and fence systems are different and nothing is interchangeable. but I wonder how they dealt with the situation on your saw. That shoe ensures that only direct pressure is applied to the rail. With your fence which has the end of the clamp screw contacting the rail I believe the rotary action of the screw will cause the fence to shift every time you lock it down. Sounds like they cheapened it up a tad.
I upgraded my 10-325 to use the same bearings as the 10-326 (Rikon sells a kit if anyone is curious). I have not had as much trouble as you describe but I agree they are fidgety. I also do not like the ratchet lever for adjusting the upper guide bearing assembly. It interferes with the fence a lot. I have thought of removing it and just using a socket head cap screw as I rarely have to make an adjustment there so no advantage to that big ratchet lever sticking out there getting in the way all the time. You are correct about ensuring the guide bearing, both lower and upper, are in line with each other and perpendicular to the blade. If the bearings are not directly opposing each other you will go nuts trying to adjust your blade and to get clean, square cuts. That goes for ANY bandsaw, not just the 10-325 or 10-326.
My biggest gripes, and I don't see them fixed on your model, are no foot brake, no safety interlock switches on the doors, and my biggest gripe is the placement of the tension release lever. you can not see it nor is there any indication that tension is released from the front of the saw. I like you keep the blade de-tensioned when not in use. So if I walk up to the saw and were to fire it up without checking that the blade is tensioned there is a very good chance that the blade will be ruined and probably also the tires on the wheels along with other parts of the saw. So a interlock switch or something to warn you that blade tension is released should be added.
Thanks Bob - I will have to look if my unit has that pad. I opted to get the Rikon without a foot break over the Laguna with the foot brake to save ~$200. I regret that decision - I really wish I had the foot break. Buyer beware I guess. Thanks for watching and post just a great comment!
Oh my gosh, I’ve ruined several blades because of what you stated. So frustrating even though it is my fault that happened but still frustrating.
I haven't read all of the comments listed and many, if not most of your issues with this bandsaw, are addressed in Alex Snodgrass' video on setting up this very bandsaw. I would imagine that you have since watched that video. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Hi Rick - many of the issues with the saw are design issues that impact the ability to properly set it up, or maintain repeatable cuts. When properly set up, it is an amazing saw. My problem is I get it set up properly like 60% of time and I never know when I'm going to get a bad cut. So I waste material and some times destroy entire projects. I'm getting better at setting it up, but I don't think it should be so hard to maintain good cuts with a saw this expensive. Thanks for watching!
I have a 10-325 and it is a decent saw. I have to say I prefer my 1948 Delta for most things. But the taller re-saw is nice with the Rikon.
I just upgraded to the Tool-less guides and so far have not been impressed. The Allen key worked fine and very seldom needed adjustment.
I like the larger bearings on the Tool-less up grade..
Having issues with the lower guides not going back far enough to clear the teeth. I ordered new tires and hope that helps but really do not have much hope.
Probably the Rikon that come with Tool-less guides are great but the upgrade ones have not made me happy yet.
Other than that it is a nice saw and I use it a lot. The Delta is always setup with a 1/4" blade.
Thanks and thanks for watching!
when you have a compression screw tightening against the round fence bar you may need to remove the screw and hold a small adjustable square to the screw to check for mating surface to be square with the round bar. Take a fine cut mill bastard file to shave uneven material from the screw end. Being uneven, screws will move along the bar as you tighten screw. On certain similar screws I have made the end of the screw slightly conical but this situation seems to be going for a flat face on the screw end for best results. Don't want to nick the round fence bar.
I have a US made 27" Northfield brand band saw for resaw work as 1.1 TPI. 1300 lbs. good luck to you
Thanks for the additional suggestion - I will definitely give it a try. Thanks for watching!
Your review was thorough and well-organized--much appreciated. A question: how difficult is it to remove the table? The reason I ask is that it generally is easier to adjust the lower guides when the table has been removed.
Hi Cary - thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it. Mechanically the table does not have lot holding it on. However, moving it is a two person job. Not worth it simply to adjust the guide/thrust bearings each time IMHO. But that is an interesting way around the access problem! Thanks for watching.
no need to remove table to adj the guides super easy I have owned the 10-326 for 5 years love the saw
I found it easier to set the table to 45degrees for guide bearing adjustments on the lower bearings. Also a homemade extension device with the notch cut in the end makes tighting the knobs much easier by keeping one of your two hands from interfering with each other
I have an earlier version of this bandsaw, prior to the knob adjusters being standard equipment, a smaller height fence and also an earlier version of the mobility system. I dealt with the allen wrench style adjustments and upgraded to the knob adjusters. The knob adjusters are much better IMO. I do have to fiddle with the guide arm outboard bearing adjustment way too much(due to the free play in the guide arm) and have resolved to find a solution for that.
A previous post below asked how easy was it to remove the table. There are four set screws that attach it to the trunion and it is not all that easy to remove them. Plus you have to remove the bolt that holds the table blade gap steady at the front of the table and also the fence and guide from the front of the table. Too much work.
While the space is tight around the lower adjusters, I am able to work them ok. An enhancement that I did to my saw was drill a hole on the outboard side to stick my finger in to push on spring loaded bearing guide. There is little room to get your finger between the guide and the wall of the saw. I used to use a screw driver to pry against the wall to adjust the bearing guide.
As for the dust collection, inside the saw there is a metal flap that covers most of the 4" pick up. I suppose that its there for two things. One to make a swirling of the dust as it is drawn out of the lower chamber and two, to increase the velocity of the sawdust as it exits through the narrow opening. I have read where people break the flap off to get better sawdust removal. I still vacuum mine out, but am going to check on that too.
Thanks for the info - I don't think I have flap to remove, so I will look for that. Thanks for watching!
I ordered this bandsaw in March. I just received it today
Wow - serious supply chain delays. Let me know if like the unit and if you have any issues. Thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru I got the unit setup and it’s definitely very well built. I was upset to see my new cast iron top to have a lot of black stains all over the top. Nothing like what I’ve seen from everyone else’s.
Yes your concerns are identical to mine.
Thanks Alan. I recently got a thinner blade and I'm having better luck with resawing. That said, the bearings are still fidgety! Thanks for watching!
Couple of comments about the 325/326: the optimal blade for this bandsaw is a 3/8” 3 TPI. The max width for nominal performance is 1/2” 4 TPI. This bandsaw is not powered for wide blades and will not track them well. Dust collection is very good on this saw if you have a good dust collector. It will not perform well with shop vacs or 3/4 hp dust collectors. I’ve had 14” Grizzly and Jet bandsaws which were terrible when compared with the Rikon. I would much prefer a 14” Powermatic but for half the price you can’t beat the Rikon.
Hi Bill - thanks for the input. Interesting comments on the blade size. I would think a 1.75hp machine could handle just about any blade size - certainly the thickness of the wood would make a big difference too. I've only bogged the machine down once or twice, but that was 13" of maple resawing. Certainly I need better dust collection, but there are many gaps in the design for air to be pulled from rather than through dust port. I suppose if more air moves, the more dust gets sucked in through all those holes and gaps including the dust port. Anyway, it is a good machine - just a couple quirks IMHO. Thanks for watching!
The problem with blades wider than 1/2 on this machine is tracking because you can’t position wider blades so that the widest part of the gullet is in the center of the wheel. You can successfully resaw most boards within the capacity of this machine with a 3/8” 3tpi blade.
@@billballeza377 Hmmm, interesting. Well, maybe that is source of my problems with resawing. I will get a smaller blade and see what happens. It should be noted, though, the stock blade was 3/4" I think (but it may have been 1/2").
In adjusting the lower guide, can the table be inclined to allow more access?
I don't think so, but I've not looked - I will check it out and report back if I find anything interesting.
I went for the digital light with the magnetic base. Works like a hot damn
Thanks Paul - I will have to look into that!
Great review
Thanks Stacey -- thank you for watching!
The rack and pinion system for height adjustment of the guard/guide is a disaster in my opinion. All Chinese made bandsaws have it now as far as I can see. Mine clogs up very quickly and that stops it being raised for access to clean it out! It’s a major problem cutting wet wood such as tree trimmings. It ends up with half an hour cleaning for every half an hour use. Serious dust extraction is therefore essential and only use well seasoned wood. My old Startrite bandsaw has a simple clamp and has never been a problem in 30 years without dust extraction.
Hey Jim - thanks for the input. I've not had a problem with my mine clogging, but I have never cut truly wet wood. I have to say, dust collection on this unit leaves a 'little' to desire ;)
@@cyberreefguru what kind of dust collection do you have? I have heard of some people complain about dust collection but are using a shop vac.
@@stevenvachon9745 Hi Steven - I have a 650 cfm unit from Rocker -- should be good enough. Though I'm considering an upgrade since the planer throws the chips harder than the dust collector catches them ;)
@@cyberreefguru I think a new dust collector in order here. I have a Laguna c-flux 1.5hp which is a small cyclone and absolutely love it. It pulls in at least 1300 cfm regardless of the amount of dust in the bag and makes a huge difference of free floating dust in the shop (and the lungs). Emptying the bag could not be easier. The less than ideal dust extraction of this Rikon I'm guessing would be solved with a better dust collector.
BTW, I am strongly considering this bandsaw and your video helps tremendously! Thank you 🇨🇦
Thank you for the video. I have the same saw and recently purchased a 3/16" blade for it. Installed the blade, adjusted the tracking/tension and find the guidepost, even with the bearing carriage fully to the back, does not allow proper alignment of the side bearings to be behind the teeth of the blade. I have attempted to "align" the guidepost via instructions in the manual (loosen four bolts on back, screw set screws (incredibly hard to get to) in/out to "tilt" the guidepost then retighten the bolts on the back - I have literally spent two hours messing with these adjustments and have gotten no where - so frustrating) but no matter what I seem to do I cannot get the side bearings behind the teeth. You mention the forward movement of the guidepost when tightening the knob on the back - mine moves fully 1/4" when I tighten the knob - moving the bearings even further forward. I have an email with pics in to Rikon tech support and am awaiting an answer on what to do next. This is my first major dislike with this saw. I will report back if/when tech support gets back to me!
Thanks Bob - keep me posted!
@@cyberreefguru Well, I finally got the saw and blade to the point where I was able to cut out a (practice) bandsaw box yesterday! It was recommended by tech support that I track the blade further to the front of the upper wheel, which in theory should bring the gullets of the blade just in front of the side bearings (ignoring all setup advice on where the blade should "properly" be tracked on the wheel). After tracking the blade to the literal front of the wheel, and still not getting in front of the bearings, I put a level on the BACK of guidepost (that moves the bearings up and down) and found the bottom of the guidepost assembly to be very much angled toward the front of the saw. Loosening the four bolts on the back, I screwed the two lower front set screws anti-clockwise and re-tightened the bolts. After a couple attempts at this I was able to get the guidepost (almost) vertical. The guidepost was likely out of whack from my previous messing with it, but I can't rule out that it was a bit "off" from the beginning. Having made the guidepost vertical, the side bearings were now behind the gullets - to the point that I could track the blade BACK on the wheel, almost to the center! The bearing carriage assembly is still all the way to the back so adjustment is now via tracking on the upper wheel. Yeah! I might have to like the saw again!
Crazy to spend $2,000 for a tool and find out things you don't like about it. Maybe I should start using my cheap tabletop bandsaw before spending thousands of dollars. If it's hollow, I bet the dust comes down the back support that goes all the way from the top to the bottom. The blade probably carries it down to the bottom like an elevator.
I had a very old, desktop bandsaw prior to this one. It's impossible to compare one to the other. And frankly, you will have likes and dislikes for any tool. That's the primary reason I made this video, to help others out -- YMMV :). Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great review. Did you ever figure out how to correct the fence movement when you lock it down? I have the same bandsaw and find it extremely difficult to accurately set the position for cutting tenons.
Hi Dennis - I have not. Someone posted a comment here with some things to try but I have not had time. I will see if I can find the comment. Thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru I sent an email to Rikon, hopefully they reply with a solution
dust collector... few drops caulk glues it in place great
Excellent suggestion! I will try it - thanks for watching!
There's quite a few adjustments you can make to the upper guard tracking in the manual. Have you tried those?
Hi Matt - I have made a number of adjustments, but I guess I need to go back to the manual and see if I've missed anything. Thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru It sounds like it can be adjusted quite a bit, which is good. I just set mine up. I can see it move side to side ever so slightly up/down but the front/back seems to stay put.
I Liked your review of this band saw. I do have one question though. It has to do with your dislikes. You mentioned you had to fine a solution or would have to do more to solve a problem. Why didn't you talk to Rikon tech support?
Hello Calvin - it never really occurred to me reach out to tech support. I guess I figured most of my issues are operator error or my own in ability to read the manual. That said, I certainly will see what they have to offer online now! Thanks for the tip and for watching!
Have you ever tried a 1/8” blade? I know they say 3/16” to 3/4” blades but they list 1/8” on the tension guide. I haven’t found anyone online line say they’ve tried that blade on these saws.
Hi Justin - I have not. I mostly do resawing with the bandsaw, but I do plan on getting more blades in the future. Thanks for watching!
I have a 14" Rikkon deluxe bandsaw and it is not a good saw esp since it was over 1200 usd on sale and that was over 10 years ago.
The guide bearings are not mounted well and the trunnion actually shattered into a handful of small pieces after about 5 hours of use.
The trunnion was made out of some cheap cast metal not cast iron.
Rikkon nor woodcraft could help. I welded up a solid steel mount to hold the table in place at level. It now has no angle adjust on the table but at least it wont break again.
I don't buy anything from Rikkon.
Hi there -- I don't know that I would paint all Rikon products with the same brush, but I will say not all products are create equally. I wish it was easier to attribute successes and failures to one thing or another, but that's not the same. I appreciate your input and experiences and I wish mine were entirely different. Certainly my bandsaw is very well made and has not fallen apart, but it certainly has some "nuances" that I can't seem overcome. Maybe more time and experience is required? Thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru I only get abused by poor design and absent service once. The fact that Rikkon produced such a weak design and then fails to offer a solution is enough for me. If it were a mediocre tool for a cheap price , I would let it go. But 1200 is enough to make a tool that doesn't fall apart. Glad I didn't pay full price for it. Not buying anymore tools from woodcraft either. Even when the bandsaw was at it's best, it was not impressive for a tool half the cost.
@@cyberreefguru I still use my grandfather's table saw that he used regularly as a contractor for 30 years. I put a new belt on it and new bearings and have used it for over 20 years with the original motor. It is near silent and smooth and cuts as good or better than any other saw I've used.
I'm stuck with this bandsaw.
I bought the Rikkon after reading the reviews in fine woodworking where it won tool of the year. That turned out to be a marketing gimmick. Can't trust them to make recommendations. Used to get FWW every month. Not anymore.
@@cyberreefguru "has some "nuances" that I can't seem overcome" That's called poor design. A bandsaw is not a complex machine and should not be overly difficult to use or adjust and should not require constant adjustment.
Dust collection mod for better than 95% dust collection. th-cam.com/video/QTLZtKWuvGs/w-d-xo.html This link is to a video from Weber wood working channel. He built a vacuum port from a vacuum nozzle that attaches under the table where the blade passes through. Collects the dust at the point of creation. I have made my own and use a shop vac to collect the dust. After cutting when I open the bandsaw doors there is only a pinch of saw dust in the bandsaw.
Thanks for the link -- I might give that a try. Thanks for watching!
I have this saw as well. It is really the only manufacturer that has an adjustment for lower wheel tracking. It is terrible. Shouldn’t be there can really impact alignment of blade in the plane of the blade.
HI Eric - I've not seen the lower wheel tracking adjustment -- guess I will have to look! Thanks for watching!
You sold me! Ill look for another brand
The saw has good qualities - I just find it difficult to properly adjust and keep tuned. Not having direct experience with any other machines, I don't know if it is me or the machine. 0.02. Thanks for watching!
Is there another saw in the same price range that you would recommend?
I don't own another saw so I have no direct experience, but the Laguna 12|14 and the bx|14 were on my list. If I could do it over again, I would get the bx|14. Hope that helps.
Any of the Grizzly Bandsaws are very good. Actually choosing between the Rikon and the Grizzly right now.
Hi David - I don't own any of them, so I cannot comment. Perhaps @darbinorvar can assist since she has one? Thanks for watching.
@@davidlykins8937 I just bought the rikon 10-326 today. Of course everyone is out of stock. Expected delivery is Dec 17th.
Whatever you do, do not buy a Jet bandsaw.
I want a bandsaw. I really do. But, it sounds like even the high end ones, like yours r a PITA. I'm a newbie. So I'm hoping by the time I actually can afford a nice 1, they will have improved. I mean, no one wants something that is so touchie that the thought of changing blades makes u groan. I assume u have watched the Snodgrass video. He's supposed 2 b the bandsaw guru I guess. If not, perhaps there's something there that might help. Thx 4 the vid.
Hi there. Yes, I've watched the video and attempted to get my machine tuned by his recommendations. I have done it, but it was not easy. I don't know if it is me or the machine, but getting everything to work properly every time is very difficult. I have less than 20% success consistently. I would let that put you off though. All tools have a learning curve. Best of luck and thanks for watching!
Move the table to get the measure right.
Thanks -- I will look into that. I'm due for a fully tune up, so something to do over the holidays. Thanks for watching!
If you’re worried about a little dust, don’t get a sawmill. LOL
Hahah. Noted! Thanks for watching.
At 3:31 you declare that the wheels are cast iron. They are cast but of aluminum, not iron.
Hi - from the Rikon website "Balanced Cast Iron Wheels".
@@cyberreefguru My mistake. You are absolutely correct, "Balanced cast iron wheels." I was looking at the 324, not the 326. My apologies to you and your viewers.
Just contact rikon and they should give you a new dust port
It still works -- just a little loose. Thanks for watching!
2.0x makes this slowski move fastki
Whatever it takes.
Quit talking robotic! That is so annoying. Other than that great info.
Everything is a program of progress. Thanks for reaching out and for watching!
I know 19min videos that show complete setups that are faster and mor thorough than this.
Hello - thanks for the valuable feedback, and thanks for watching.