PRECISION MATTHEWS LATHE TEETHING -1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- This video series tells of the teething problems of getting a new machine in the shop and getting it running right.
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Please leave me a comment about your thoughts. It can be simple or long, it can be stuff I need to do better or stuff you liked, or topics you would like to see covered. Virtually anything would be appreciated.
Good video. Two points.
First: PM products are made in the Republic of China, Taiwan, not The People's Democratic Republic of (mainland) China. Taiwan is a separate country. You simply say "made in China". That phrase commonly means communist China.
Two: I am a little hard of hearing. I wish your voice was as loud as the music. I had no trouble enjoying the tunes but was unable to make out anything that you said. As we all know from experience when computer software is used to change audio speech to text it is filled with inaccuracies. Please... Use a lapel mic and turn it up.
Thank you for your PM lathe videos. If buying another lathe today. Would you buy the same one today or would you buy a different make or model. I am in the market to do similar type of work on a lathe and I value your opinion. TIA.
Hi Ty. The lathe continues to work great. I haven't done any more research on lathes, but given my experience, I would buy again, maybe a bit longer bed. Good luck to you!
Here is a good source of information on buying import lathes. th-cam.com/video/znZgT3Zmf5Y/w-d-xo.html
Is it possible that you bound up the crossfeed at the end of its travel? If so, you could have spun the lathe chuck in reverse to unbind it. Ask me how I know that's a possibility.
See my followup video. :)
You say "They pinpointed what they thought it was, and it pretty much matched what I think it is." OK What is it? My lathe did exactly the same thing, except mine seemed to fix itself.
Hi Nicholas, PM says that a keyway key sheared either in the gear change wheels or in the carriage feed gear box. Sorry I haven't been able to get back to the lathe for more teardown.
New subscriber here. I'm considering the 1022V as my first metal lathe and your videos are very helpful. One note on the video intro-----your voice is nearly drowned out by the background music. Otherwise I'm thrilled to have found your channel and appreciate your skills and "matter of fact" way around this issue.
Very interesting ..
My Dad worked for Cincinnati Milacron back in the late 50’s on a big mill..
Thank you Sir!
When looking at Precision Mathews mills or lathes it is better to stay with the models that have a "T" in the model name. That designates that the machine is of Taiwanese manufacture, which has a much better build quality than the ones made in China.
Good to know. Thank you!
I agree, I found out the hard way. I have one of the China made PM lathes (PM1130) and it's been nothing but a pain. No help from PM, they respond but won't admit there is an issue with it. It's a $4K mistake I won't make again.
I'm going to have to set mine aside and buy another lathe, local this time and better quality so I can keep producing parts until I can tear into the transmission which has a bind in it slowing the carriage feed, if it's what I think it is it's being sold for scrap.
So an instance of where Matt at PM hasn’t measured up to all the hype about him and his customer focus & quality control claims?
@@MegaLostOne you could do what I did with a made in china welder I bought. I emailed the company told them what issues it had. They responded with an offer of 25% of the purchase price. I told them I wanted to return it they then asked me to send videos of the issues, so I made some videos and posted them on you tube then sent the links to them. Their next email was to save cost of returning the item they would give me a 100% refund and I could keep the item. I think telling them that other ppl may watch the videos I posted and it may make them look at other option besides theirs.
I heard you say when you pulled apart the stuck cross slide it also immediately freed the carriage travel. You would have had to have had the carriage in drive and using cross slide drive at the same time for that to occur. Is that possible ? accidentily ? You do not want to do that. One at a time only.
Thank you! In Teething-2 I go through some of this.
And 15 minutes later I’m left still wondering why it locked up.
Check out part two. I think I know.
Cool that you had the means to flatten it by milling but was slightly risky vs lapping it or surface grinding it. I'm looking to buy the slightly bigger version of this machine PM-1127 if I can find one for sale somewhere in person vs ordering and hoping to receive it without issues.
Thank you! The whole supply chain thing is out of whack for new machines, which makes used one more valuable. Good luck finding a machine.
Grizzly machines are top notch.
At least flake some oil pockets, two flat surfaces dont lubricate well and will wear out much faster
Hi Larry,
In the three subsequent times I have taken it apart to check things, there is a nice layer of way-oil on both surfaces.
I have the same Lathe but without the DRO, which I regret not purchasing, I did have a problem with the on/off switch which Matt quickly replaced and I also tore down the carriage and the headstock and cleaned and re-lubricated both components and that seem to take care of the basic functions of the Lathe. There are some changes that if they were made the PM Lathes would be even better and I would have been happy to have paid for but overall I do believe they are the best Lathes out there for the money and have the best features also, I choose the PM 1030 over a Grizzly Model and I don't regret that decision and the service from Matt is also the best, even when I wasn't the best at communicating the problem to him
Ted, we agree. And I believe the DRO can be retrofitted. They are indeed nice.
I was surprised to see you lift the mill between sides when machining the cross-slide. I think I would have maintained the quill/Zaxis and done both sides before lifting to make sure they were machined at the same height and avoid any lash introduced errors. Interesting to see how you approached this. I have the PM1340GT and am happy with it.
Since the area was machined with CNC code, lifting at the end of the facing pattern is part of that program. But the Tormach repeats to within a couple of tenths. On a manual mill, we all learned to do it in one setting as you suggest.
I have one of these lathes, a PM1022, and I am very happy and have absolutely no problems with it. In fact I am pleasantly surprised at it capabilities.
I am enjoying mine very much. Check out Blondihacks if you haven't already.
Your good lathe compared to the issue this guy had is precisely why no one should ever, under any circumstances recommend any imported machine such as this. These are all untouched by anything other than Chinese hands & their quality control is as hit and miss as a hit and miss engine!!! My gripe is always with the importers claims as they have absolutely no idea what you're going to get but always claim that they have some sort of magical control over Chinese quality control, they most definitely do not!!!! I am saying this as a happy UK customer of a large milling machine that turned out to be perfect but, I am under no illusion that it could just as easily been a piece of junk!!! In fact, the UK importer had never even taken one of these specific machines out of it's packaging to take pictures of it for their website!!! I've also worked for 2 companies that actually owned the companies in China that made their aluminium castings & they still couldn't control their lack of quality control. Any company that helps customers fix their issues, as if they had a choice not too, is held in high regard these days when high regard should be aimed at companies that don't send out junk to start with!!!
@@Arckivio Precision Matthews has a very good reputation for their machine tools.
@@freeidaho-videos I'm sorry, but your reply is exactly part of the problem I'm talking about. You had to flatten the underside of your cross slide & then you thanked them for including a spare keyed bush because the original was broken!!! This isn't really about you or PM, it seems to be a worldwide phenomenon where we accept less & less for more & more & then say thank you!!!!!
@@Arckivio I'm not sure why you are here with your hollier-than-thou attitude, but here is what actually happened.
My lathe isn't a problem. I broke my lathe through my own boneheadedness. While it was apart, I chose to surface one part, although I can't prove I made it much better. I'm just OCD that way.
The actual problem is that some want to pay import prices, then expect Monarch quality, and go about bitching about the difference to anyone that will listen.
For me, it is an import lathe or no lathe. My research led me to Precision Matthews as head and shoulders above the rest. That decison was good one, the lathe does a great job.
Every day millions of people get to work without a Mercedes. If they had to have a Mercedes they would be riding a bicycle to work.
Just to be clear, I'm done listening to your bitching. Move along.
BTW, I do like your clocks.
i had very bad experience with an import lathe supplied by Chester machine tools here in the UK. the 12" x 26" gear head lathe i bought to supplement my large Colchester which is probably older than i am, the import still had casting sand in the gearbox, the headstock was badly out of alignment and the tailstock was an 8th of an inch low, the power feeds were noisy and even after what added up to weeks of grinding and scraping it is not worth what i paid for it. support from the company was limited to selling me replacement parts. if i could go back i would have bought an old american or british lathe of comparable size. as a price comparison the Colchester cost £500 but i had to move it myself
Sorry to hear that. I bought Precision Matthews brand for this very reason. Not all import machine tools are the same, even though they look the same in many cases.
I hope you have it sorted out and it is now a useful machine.
BTW, I later learned that my issues was most likely self-inflicted.
I have a Chester DB10VS which looks more or less the same machine as this. I had a clicking noise coming from the spindle bearings (I think!) and Chester’s response was absolute zero! Once they have your money, you can go to hell as far as they’re concerned. Fortunately, the problem has abated on it’s own but if I have any other issues during the warranty period, I’ll be banging on their door.
@@jubbaronny I'm happy the problem went away. The whole reason I bought the Precision Matthews lathe is because of the home company. They are very responsive and capable.
I think you should have done scraping dear sir
Not within my talent pool though.
I ordered this exact same lathe, and one of their mills. It took nearly 8 months for the mill to arrive. It is what it is, but they are nice little machines, imho some of the best import machines that you'll find. Worth the wait, just know that you'll def be waiting a bit and expect it so you don't get frustrated.
Hopefully, the shipping container mess will be cleaned up soon. Good luck!
I received all my Grizzly machines in 3 weeks. Best machines for the buck.
Replace the 2 bolt compound clamp with a 4 bolt setup. Those oil passages are junk. I have the G0752 and it is a beast and it is also machined better than the PM. All overseas machines should be disassembled and cleaned. Especially that red gunk they smear everywhere that seems to migrate to the ways which is a huge no no. The DRO preventing gibb adjustment is hilarious...or extremely sad, depending on your ownership status. I checked all the machines out before my purchase. I also bought a G0704 mill and am extremely happy with my purchases from Grizzly. Tooling is another story...Grizzly is moderate to junk. Shars Tools are the top notch supplier imo. There products are of the highest quality and are very, very inexpensive compared to others. I hope your massive mill cut doesnt affect other alignments. Not sure why you used such a small end mill. A larger one would have been easier, or a fly cutter just to remove a couple of thousandths. I suppose if you created problems than you can just make a new compound, if you have dovetail and t slot cutters.
Yeah, no thanks. Power crossfeed is a must!
@7:07 Why don't you just cut an allen key shorter so that it fits? That is a super simple fix. Way easier than disassembling and replacing the screws with hex heads.
Tried that, and didn't care for it. It makes a custom tool I need to put somewhere so it doesn't get lost. If I wasn't already forced to take off the DRO scale, I might have used your solution though.
10:14 gotta love made in china junk. Normally this is a better-quality made version of the typical castings that are used in nearly all the different manufactures of these lathes, however theyre management still puts the equivalent of teenagers drunk of saki in position of their quality control department
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Hello freeidaho! Can you make a short video where you remove the quick change tool post (QCTP) of your PM1030V, and also show the bottom side of the compound rest. I have a nearly identical lathe, I think, both of these lathes are based on the SIEG SC6 castings. I would like to see how they machined the changes for the QCTP on the PM1022, or PM1030. I want to do a video review of my lathe to add a QCTP like PM1030. Thanks! 🙂
Sorry, I'm not the right guy to be an instructor, I have enough trouble just getting the few things I do on video. Good Luck!
@@freeidaho-videos, It is more simple than providing instruction. I only need to see a picture of the top and bottom of the compound slide with the QCTP removed.