I've decided to give my 97 Accord some tlc after having it parked for some time. I've already replaced the valve cover gasket with the help of one of your videos and with the help of another one of your videos, I'm waiting for the glue to dry on the little rubber piece inside a door lock actuator right now. This is another video I'll be using when I get the time to do this. Excellent videos!
This was the closest thing I could find for my del sol problem.my oil pressure switch snapped off at the connecting pin randomly and I was racking my brain where all my oil was dumping out from.this was pretty dang informative and helped me out figuring out the socket type I needed for replacing the busted one for a new one.thanks for all the information.
That's an excellent review. With the gauge going on when you took your foot off the gas, I would have worried about reduced hydrostatic resistance to oil flow, causing reduced oil pressure. As you know that can be the death knell of an old engine, which becomes unable to provide enough resistance to oil flow to allow pressure to rise at low rpm. You nicely documented it. It's surprising, the normal difference between oil pressure at high and low rpm.
Great video, you're very thorough and your explanations are right on. Noticed you haven't posted a new video in some time, I hope you re-start doing them. I work on a friend's 94 Accord so you've been excellent in bailing me out when I work on her car. But I've used the knowledge in other cars as well. Thanks again.
Oil pressure switch.. done! The small plastic tip on the broken connector boot was still able to attach to the new switch with no problem.. electrical tape took care of the rest.. had to use vice grips to loosen the oil pressure switch as the deep socket 24mm was too long to allow enough space for the ratchet. Still... works great now.. Thanks for the help!
Your video was great but after i saw you pull out the drawing board I skipped to the part I saw you taking out the pressure switch and got mine off in 3 minutes. Thanks
Thanks, I figured out the problem with the blinking oil light coming on randomly was a short in the dashboard, by whacking on the dash while watching the voltage at the pigtail. Not going to fix it but saved me a bunch of other work that would have been pointless.
Thanks for making the videos, they're very thorough. I was going to pick up an oil pressure guage anyway to check it the right way instead of just assuming. Thanks for your response
On the 1999 V6 VTEC engine, the switch is even harder to get to. I had to use a small pair of channel locks to take off the old switch (24mm), then use the shorter Lisle 13200 oil pressure switch socket with 3/8" drive to put on the new switch (1"). The new switch already came with the threads coated with a dry sealant, so I didn't have to put anything on them. So far no more leak!
I had my sensor replaced, and the blinking pressure light turned off.. for about a month… now its back to flickering at idle after a 20 min drive. Any ideas?
Thanks for the help in the video. When I was changing the switch on my sister in laws 1995 I was having trouble removing the boot the sensor goes in. I tried using pilers to pull on the boot and broke the sensor in the process. After finally getting the new switch in I didn't feel the click you described when placing the boot back over the sensor. Where could I find a replacement connector and boot to slide over the sensor? Its sending information as when the car got up to temp it started flashing, needed a quart of oil and the light has been off since. I just don't want it to wiggle loose from bumpy roads and her not know. I appreciate the help, thanks.
As far as I know that connector isn't available separately as long as it fit in securely it should be fine. If it is excessively loose you can gently push the contacts together with a pair of pliers to get a better fit.
I cannot fit my 1/2 ratchet in that tight space. You used a stubby 1/2 rachet correct? What size is the socket you used? Also my rubber connector broke. Do you know the part number for that?
Nice video; very helpful. Question: I have a '95 Civic w/336 k. Replaced a blown head gasket approx 2.5 months ago. Car running OK. Oil pressure light started coming on about a week or so ago. Flashes first after 10-20 minutes of driving then stays on. Car still running fine - no noises, stalling, etc. I can shut the car off, immediately crank up, and the light will go off and then the cycle will continue with it coming on and off and then staying on after 10 or so minutes of driving. Should I start with replacing the switch? BTW, I changed the oil when I did the head gasket job - put in 5w20, I typically use 10w30.
On an engine with that many miles on it I wouldn't go below the manufacturers viscosity specification. The increased clearance in the bearings from normal wear combined with the reduction in viscosity will allow more oil to slip past them lowering the oil pressure. Honda recommends 5W30 which gives you an engine ambient operating temperature range between -20F and over 100F. But it's also acceptable to use 10W30 if the ambient temperature where you are stays above 20F. I'd try using the recommended viscosity oil before suspecting the switch.
I have oil leaking from the oil pressure switch but it seems whoever replaced it before has stripped the majority of the threads. What is your recommended fix? Is it possible to retap and helicoil?
Great video. going to change mine when I change my oil and filter today. Now if you can do a video on why my 1994 Accord I sometime have to keep turning the key to get the fuel pump to kick in. I have change the ignition switch, the fuel pump, the fuel pump relay and and button. please help. thanks
Should you have had to add an o ring to the switch? Ive changed one on a honda element, fixed problem for a 100 miles or so then came back. The diagram i looked at shows that part as well s what looks like an o ring which did not come with new part????
This. I just did my 92 Accord, and used the old o-ring. I used an AC Delco switch that already had dry sealant on the threads, so I figured I was good, but it started leaking not long after. Caused me to fail a state inspection, which I think is kind of a scam. I've been passing inspections for years with oil leaks with my old mechanic, but he retired...
I need to replace this oil pressure switch, but I can't find one that fits. I have buyed 2 different and the threads are different. What brand are you using or if you have the part number so I can get the right one...
The block and switch have BSPT (British standard tapered pipe threads) many parts stores computers seem to say a switch with NPT threads (the standard for tapered threads in the US) is the right part but it's not. Either the manufacturer is putting the wrong part in the boxes or the parts stores have the wrong part number. You can tell them apart by eye the BSPT switch threads will be thinner towards the end while the NPT threads will be relatively fatter. Bottom line as you've discovered the threads are incompatible short of going to multiple stores and looking at the parts your best bet is to get one from the dealer. Sorry I cant remember where I bought mine from off hand but I do remember having that issue.
Welp, i wish i would of watch this before i changed mine... I put mine on from the top and i couldnt tell if it was fully tight and i crack the whole housing😑
Hi guy. I've got a 90 Accord. Oil Light Blinks instead of staying on solid. Been like this for quite some time. Motor still runs fine. So would this likely still be the same fix?
Francis Montoya: The engine is worn out unfortunately. The bearings are worn and the oil clearance (gap between the bearing surface and round machined surface on the rotating part) is too large which is causing an excessive pressure drop. The oil is thicker when the engine is cold and the oil pressure will be higher as a result.
+Bushougoma How many miles on the engine? I rebuilt my 93 integra at about 218 or 238K, I have to check my records. Just replaced the piston rings and it's been working great. I have issues with the oil pressure so I'll be running through these diagnostics to isolate every potential prob.
Bushougoma, what was Francis Montoya's original question? I am having same issue as your video except that my light also sometimes flashes while driving. If the switch is bad to begin with, why does it wait till car is at operating temps and then the light comes on?
If the sender fails, then it could create a false alarm. It's also possible that the sender is fine and you have low oil pressure at idle, or maybe all the time. Check the oil level; if it's too low that will cause pressure drops in turns.
Great video How to. Before I take this on got a couple questions.. got a 94 accord with 180000 mi. my c.e.l light came on, checked the code and got code 22. My oil was really low so I added some reset cel and it's still on. Would my best bet be to change the switch? Is it a bad idea to drive the car with a bad switch? Thanks for any help
A code 22 is means there's a problem in the VTEC oil pressure switch "circuit". This doesn't mean replace the switch. Codes are a diagnostic starting point to give you direction not a diagnosis. Based on what you've told me there isn't an issue. The PCM engaged the VTEC solenoid when driving (applying oil pressure to the sensor) and it saw the oil pressure was low due to the low oil level and set the code. The VTEC oil pressure switch isn't the same one as shown in this video. It's purpose is to determine if there is sufficient oil pressure to activate VTEC not to warn you when oil pressure is low since this switch only sees pressure when the PCM energizes the VTEC solenoid. Since the oil has been topped off clear the code and see if it comes back. Either disconnect the negative battery terminal or pull out the backup fuse in the underhood fuse / relay box with the ignition off. I believe it's fuse 39 a 7.5 Amp fuse check inside the cover make the fuse in that position is labeled backup. Also make sure you have the radio code if it has a flashing anti theft light. If the code returns let me know and I'll list what to check.
I’m having the same sort of issue on my 1995 ex-r with the f22b1 I got the same code 22 and changed the vtec pressure switch as it was leaking bad when I went to look after doing a little reading and my car won’t rev over 3500 which is what I’m assuming is the ecm not letting vtec kick on
Yeah.. so.... the wire connected to the connector just totally broke off my connector before I could even get it off ( cemented on like you said) ...danguh! Any suggestions now? I cant even see how to get the old wiring disconnected from the body...Oh well... Im ready for a new car anyway...crappy old Accord.
The easiest thing to do would be to remove the crimped contact from the switch restrip the wire, tin it, and solder it to the exterior of the connector. No cost involved. Or you can get a pigtail which will include a new boot and connector. Installing it would involve stripping the old wire and soldering or crimping the new connector with a butt connector to the existing wire.
I have a 2001 Honda Accord and I tried taking the sensor off but I broke off the rubber connector on top of the sensor and now the engine leaks is the connecter to blame?
That connector is nothing but a dust cap it doesn't seal anything. If there is a leak it will come from the threads, where the metal is crimped to the plastic, or between the terminal stud and the plastic on the switch.
You must have some brand new and really clean oil in that engine .... when you first pulled the stick to check the level to me it looked like it as below the min mark .... your oil is basically clear ... I didn't even see the baige/ yellowish tint that all oil has ...
If i was driving for a long time with this light coming on, wouldnt the engine cease up or badly be damaged? I'm asking bc Ive done this and the car runs perfectly, but more times than not the light ends up coming on while im driving. Does this mean the switch is the problem? It only comes on when the key is turned but not when its started up until the motor is warmed up. it doesnt come on everytime i drive it tho. 1994 Honda accord ex
great video! hey the check engine light on my 93 Accord doesn't come on anymore at the first turn of the key. the light just don't work anymore. do you have any insight or direction you could give me?
Hola bnos dias tengo un honda acord 92 iva en carretera de repente se apago al parecer no esta suviendo aceite ala cabeza k podra ser el problema espero tu respuesta grcs tenga buen dia
I changed the thermostat the oil pressure and the light is still turning on. But when I turn on the AC it's not turning off on me anymore. The oil light still flickers on and off. Is there any other suggestion that you can make
Great video... My oil pressure indicator doesn't come on at all, not even during the bulb check phase when the accessories are turned on. Could you have a scenario where the switch is constantly open (Bad Sensor) causing the oil pressure lamp indicator to never come on?
It's possible and easy to check. Set your DMM to measure voltage, attach the negative lead to a good ground, and disconnect the single wire from the pressure switch. If the bulb doesn't come on check for the presence of 12 volts with the key on engine off at the pressure switch wire if it's there the 12 volt supply to the bulb, the indicator bulb, and the wire leading to the pressure switch are fine. You can also ground out the switch wire to get extra confirmation the indicator should come on. If it does the pressure switch is bad. If 12 volts is not present you either have a bad bulb in the cluster, an open in the pressure switch wire, or a bad 12 volt supply to the bulb. At that point I'd pull the instrument cluster and check the bulb since it's the most likely culprit.
The oil was recently changed on this vehicle so I wanted to avoid having to top it off when I was done. Oil filters store quite a bit of oil in them after the engine has been shut off. Horizontally mounted filters like this one spill that oil onto what seems like every conceivable surface under the vehicle while you're threading it off :-) another thing I wanted to avoid. It's no fun working with everything covered in oil. You get used to working around things on modern vehicles I didn't feel like it was really in the way. If you want to take the opportunity to also change the oil and filter if you haven't recently go ahead.
thanks! I'm debating if this is easy enough for a woman with no car experience besides changing the oil years ago when i was a young adventurous type...? I have a corolla 92. It looks hard to get to is all, and the Toyota videos don't show the sealant.. is the thread sealant always necessary on all cars? thanks!
The drivers multiplex control unit which monitors the oil pressure switch wire is flashing the oil light because it saw the switch activate for a short period of time. If the oil level is normal chances are the switch is bad.
Same process. Oil pressure switches are just threaded into an oil passage on the engine. They're one of the few parts that don't vary much from vehicle to vehicle due to their simplicity.
I've decided to give my 97 Accord some tlc after having it parked for some time. I've already replaced the valve cover gasket with the help of one of your videos and with the help of another one of your videos, I'm waiting for the glue to dry on the little rubber piece inside a door lock actuator right now. This is another video I'll be using when I get the time to do this. Excellent videos!
This was the closest thing I could find for my del sol problem.my oil pressure switch snapped off at the connecting pin randomly and I was racking my brain where all my oil was dumping out from.this was pretty dang informative and helped me out figuring out the socket type I needed for replacing the busted one for a new one.thanks for all the information.
This is the best explanation by far that I watched as of May 1, 2020.
That's an excellent review.
With the gauge going on when you took your foot off the gas, I would have worried about reduced hydrostatic resistance to oil flow, causing reduced oil pressure. As you know that can be the death knell of an old engine, which becomes unable to provide enough resistance to oil flow to allow pressure to rise at low rpm. You nicely documented it. It's surprising, the normal difference between oil pressure at high and low rpm.
Great video, you're very thorough and your explanations are right on. Noticed you haven't posted a new video in some time, I hope you re-start doing them. I work on a friend's 94 Accord so you've been excellent in bailing me out when I work on her car. But I've used the knowledge in other cars as well. Thanks again.
This one of the best explained videos I've seen Great job Bro.THIS IS MUCH APPRECIATED
Oil pressure switch.. done! The small plastic tip on the broken connector boot was still able to attach to the new switch with no problem.. electrical tape took care of the rest.. had to use vice grips to loosen the oil pressure switch as the deep socket 24mm was too long to allow enough space for the ratchet. Still... works great now.. Thanks for the help!
Glad it worked out.
This is the most helpful and informative auto repair video ive ever seen. Thanks!
Great video
I have the same car and HAD the same problem till I found this video. This is excellent thank you so much!
even though this wasnt for my car i enjoyed watching it. now i feel comfortable doing it on my rsx
Thanks always for the valuable info on the accord. I hope you have made some bucks on these videos...they are most helpful. God bless you bud!
Thanks man, your video help me figure out where the oil was coming from
Your video was great but after i saw you pull out the drawing board I skipped to the part I saw you taking out the pressure switch and got mine off in 3 minutes. Thanks
That was a terrific demonstration I learned alot. I believe I will be successful in changing the oil pressure switch on my 02honda accord thanks
Thanks, I figured out the problem with the blinking oil light coming on randomly was a short in the dashboard, by whacking on the dash while watching the voltage at the pigtail. Not going to fix it but saved me a bunch of other work that would have been pointless.
Excellent video. One of the best I've seen for auto repair.
Question! What if it's leaking but no oil pressure indicator is on?! Your videos are the bomb!
The rubber diaphragm in the switch is most likely torn.
Thanks for making the videos, they're very thorough. I was going to pick up an oil pressure guage anyway to check it the right way instead of just assuming. Thanks for your response
I must say, this is an Excellent tutorial! Keep them coming !
Thanks man this helped me alot! i thought my head gasket was leaking, but it was the sensor!
On the 1999 V6 VTEC engine, the switch is even harder to get to. I had to use a small pair of channel locks to take off the old switch (24mm), then use the shorter Lisle 13200 oil pressure switch socket with 3/8" drive to put on the new switch (1"). The new switch already came with the threads coated with a dry sealant, so I didn't have to put anything on them. So far no more leak!
So happy!! Thanks for the information and help. Just fixed mine.
Very thorough video and explanation bro. Thank you sir
Thank you very mouch for your videos! i help me with my accord 96 LX, from Guatemala! Bless!
I have to agree with Spelunkerd. Excellent troubleshooting and nice thought processing going on there. Keep up the good work. Thumbs up!
Great Video Very Detailed In Directions And Instructions.. Thanks Helped Out Alot
great video man give you a 10 out of 10 for diagnostic video, keep making videos bro
I'm so impressed. thank you so much for this video!! I'm going to try everything you explained and see if I can find my problem.
Very thorough. Thanks!
What socket size removes the oil pressure sensor?
For me 27mm, F23A Accord.
I had my sensor replaced, and the blinking pressure light turned off.. for about a month… now its back to flickering at idle after a 20 min drive. Any ideas?
Awesome dude. Thanks a lot for the video. Lots of appreciation 💪💪💪💪💪
very good troubleshooting skills and an excellent quality video with valuable key information. Excellent video
this is a great video, very informational and answered some things i wasnt sure aboout
Great video! Thorough and easy to follow.
Thanks for the help in the video. When I was changing the switch on my sister in laws 1995 I was having trouble removing the boot the sensor goes in. I tried using pilers to pull on the boot and broke the sensor in the process. After finally getting the new switch in I didn't feel the click you described when placing the boot back over the sensor. Where could I find a replacement connector and boot to slide over the sensor? Its sending information as when the car got up to temp it started flashing, needed a quart of oil and the light has been off since. I just don't want it to wiggle loose from bumpy roads and her not know. I appreciate the help, thanks.
As far as I know that connector isn't available separately as long as it fit in securely it should be fine.
If it is excessively loose you can gently push the contacts together with a pair of pliers to get a better fit.
Great video, keep em coming!
I cannot fit my 1/2 ratchet in that tight space. You used a stubby 1/2 rachet correct? What size is the socket you used? Also my rubber connector broke. Do you know the part number for that?
you saved my life thank you so much for this video
You are a genius I was 3 courts low
great video! major help. thanks!
Nice video; very helpful. Question: I have a '95 Civic w/336 k. Replaced a blown head gasket approx 2.5 months ago. Car running OK. Oil pressure light started coming on about a week or so ago. Flashes first after 10-20 minutes of driving then stays on. Car still running fine - no noises, stalling, etc. I can shut the car off, immediately crank up, and the light will go off and then the cycle will continue with it coming on and off and then staying on after 10 or so minutes of driving. Should I start with replacing the switch? BTW, I changed the oil when I did the head gasket job - put in 5w20, I typically use 10w30.
On an engine with that many miles on it I wouldn't go below the manufacturers viscosity specification. The increased clearance in the bearings from normal wear combined with the reduction in viscosity will allow more oil to slip past them lowering the oil pressure.
Honda recommends 5W30 which gives you an engine ambient operating temperature range between -20F and over 100F. But it's also acceptable to use 10W30 if the ambient temperature where you are stays above 20F.
I'd try using the recommended viscosity oil before suspecting the switch.
Very helpful thanks
Awesome video! Thanks Much!!!
I have oil leaking from the oil pressure switch but it seems whoever replaced it before has stripped the majority of the threads. What is your recommended fix? Is it possible to retap and helicoil?
my oil pressure switch has a small nut on it all i had to do was torque it down no more leak did not have to replace!
Great video. going to change mine when I change my oil and filter today. Now if you can do a video on why my 1994 Accord I sometime have to keep turning the key to get the fuel pump to kick in. I have change the ignition switch, the fuel pump, the fuel pump relay and and button. please help. thanks
my 1996 accord does this. i'm pretty sure it's the ECM.
Should you have had to add an o ring to the switch? Ive changed one on a honda element, fixed problem for a 100 miles or so then came back. The diagram i looked at shows that part as well s what looks like an o ring which did not come with new part????
This. I just did my 92 Accord, and used the old o-ring. I used an AC Delco switch that already had dry sealant on the threads, so I figured I was good, but it started leaking not long after. Caused me to fail a state inspection, which I think is kind of a scam. I've been passing inspections for years with oil leaks with my old mechanic, but he retired...
I have a 94 Accord ex auto and I'm not hitting VTEC could this be the issue or the VTEC solenoid?
I need to replace this oil pressure switch, but I can't find one that fits. I have buyed 2 different and the threads are different. What brand are you using or if you have the part number so I can get the right one...
The block and switch have BSPT (British standard tapered pipe threads) many parts stores computers seem to say a switch with NPT threads (the standard for tapered threads in the US) is the right part but it's not.
Either the manufacturer is putting the wrong part in the boxes or the parts stores have the wrong part number.
You can tell them apart by eye the BSPT switch threads will be thinner towards the end while the NPT threads will be relatively fatter.
Bottom line as you've discovered the threads are incompatible short of going to multiple stores and looking at the parts your best bet is to get one from the dealer.
Sorry I cant remember where I bought mine from off hand but I do remember having that issue.
is the sensor supposed to sit flush with the block or can it stick out a little bit?
The threads are tapered so just tighten it enough so it won't leak.
Welp, i wish i would of watch this before i changed mine... I put mine on from the top and i couldnt tell if it was fully tight and i crack the whole housing😑
Hi guy. I've got a 90 Accord. Oil Light Blinks instead of staying on solid. Been like this for quite some time. Motor still runs fine. So would this likely still be the same fix?
Francis Montoya:
The engine is worn out unfortunately. The bearings are worn and the oil clearance (gap between the bearing surface and round machined surface on the rotating part) is too large which is causing an excessive pressure drop.
The oil is thicker when the engine is cold and the oil pressure will be higher as a result.
+Bushougoma How many miles on the engine? I rebuilt my 93 integra at about 218 or 238K, I have to check my records. Just replaced the piston rings and it's been working great. I have issues with the oil pressure so I'll be running through these diagnostics to isolate every potential prob.
Ef You See Kay jewtube
It's a friends car but I think it was around 130K.
Bushougoma, what was Francis Montoya's original question? I am having same issue as your video except that my light also sometimes flashes while driving. If the switch is bad to begin with, why does it wait till car is at operating temps and then the light comes on?
Is it normal for a 04 Honda Accord pressure switch to have smaller size holes? I heard that they made some changes. Any idea? Thank you!
Always check your oil
Thnx
Was it actual low oil pressure or just a false alarm when this part fails?
If the sender fails, then it could create a false alarm. It's also possible that the sender is fine and you have low oil pressure at idle, or maybe all the time. Check the oil level; if it's too low that will cause pressure drops in turns.
Great video How to. Before I take this on got a couple questions.. got a 94 accord with 180000 mi. my c.e.l light came on, checked the code and got code 22. My oil was really low so I added some reset cel and it's still on. Would my best bet be to change the switch? Is it a bad idea to drive the car with a bad switch? Thanks for any help
A code 22 is means there's a problem in the VTEC oil pressure switch "circuit". This doesn't mean replace the switch. Codes are a diagnostic starting point to give you direction not a diagnosis.
Based on what you've told me there isn't an issue. The PCM engaged the VTEC solenoid when driving (applying oil pressure to the sensor) and it saw the oil pressure was low due to the low oil level and set the code.
The VTEC oil pressure switch isn't the same one as shown in this video.
It's purpose is to determine if there is sufficient oil pressure to activate VTEC not to warn you when oil pressure is low since this switch only sees pressure when the PCM energizes the VTEC solenoid.
Since the oil has been topped off clear the code and see if it comes back. Either disconnect the negative battery terminal or pull out the backup fuse in the underhood fuse / relay box with the ignition off. I believe it's fuse 39 a 7.5 Amp fuse check inside the cover make the fuse in that position is labeled backup.
Also make sure you have the radio code if it has a flashing anti theft light.
If the code returns let me know and I'll list what to check.
I’m having the same sort of issue on my 1995 ex-r with the f22b1 I got the same code 22 and changed the vtec pressure switch as it was leaking bad when I went to look after doing a little reading and my car won’t rev over 3500 which is what I’m assuming is the ecm not letting vtec kick on
I got a honda accord 2001 I but a new vtec solenoid and it still miss fires when it hits 4000 rpm wat could it be
Do you need to remove the passenger front tire?
What's that connection next to the oil pressure sensor to the left?
mechanic told me this is the case for me but I dont have the oil light just the engine light on. Whats the deal with that? Honda Accord 2010 .
My oil light is blinking and my oil is full so what should I do?
Yeah.. so.... the wire connected to the connector just totally broke off my connector before I could even get it off ( cemented on like you said) ...danguh! Any suggestions now? I cant even see how to get the old wiring disconnected from the body...Oh well... Im ready for a new car anyway...crappy old Accord.
The easiest thing to do would be to remove the crimped contact from the switch restrip the wire, tin it, and solder it to the exterior of the connector. No cost involved.
Or you can get a pigtail which will include a new boot and connector. Installing it would involve stripping the old wire and soldering or crimping the new connector with a butt connector to the existing wire.
***** I like the pigtail idea... I'll see what the auto parts store has and go from there. Will report back when done. Thanks!
I have a 2001 Honda Accord and I tried taking the sensor off but I broke off the rubber connector on top of the sensor and now the engine leaks is the connecter to blame?
That connector is nothing but a dust cap it doesn't seal anything.
If there is a leak it will come from the threads, where the metal is crimped to the plastic, or between the terminal stud and the plastic on the switch.
***** so just replace the sensor and it should be all good?
David Mwanzia
If you're sure that's where the oil is coming from.
You must have some brand new and really clean oil in that engine .... when you first pulled the stick to check the level to me it looked like it as below the min mark .... your oil is basically clear ... I didn't even see the baige/ yellowish tint that all oil has ...
If i was driving for a long time with this light coming on, wouldnt the engine cease up or badly be damaged? I'm asking bc Ive done this and the car runs perfectly, but more times than not the light ends up coming on while im driving. Does this mean the switch is the problem? It only comes on when the key is turned but not when its started up until the motor is warmed up. it doesnt come on everytime i drive it tho. 1994 Honda accord ex
@16:17 - That's what she said.
haha..comment of the day lol
I read your comment first and waited. I lost it at "Before you need to pop" :D :D :D
Not helpful.
great video! hey the check engine light on my 93 Accord doesn't come on anymore at the first turn of the key. the light just don't work anymore. do you have any insight or direction you could give me?
If the vehicle is otherwise running normally (the PCM is fine) I'd check for a blown bulb in the instrument cluster.
Bushougoma thank you for the reply and direction, it's much appreciated. keep the videos comin!
Hola bnos dias tengo un honda acord 92 iva en carretera de repente se apago al parecer no esta suviendo aceite ala cabeza k podra ser el problema espero tu respuesta grcs tenga buen dia
It is necesary to remuve the oil??before change the switch??
No the oil gravity drains to the oil pan after the engine is turned off.
I changed the thermostat the oil pressure and the light is still turning on. But when I turn on the AC it's not turning off on me anymore. The oil light still flickers on and off. Is there any other suggestion that you can make
Is the operation the same on a non-VTEC version of this car?
Yes the operation is the same.
Great video... My oil pressure indicator doesn't come on at all, not even during the bulb check phase when the accessories are turned on. Could you have a scenario where the switch is constantly open (Bad Sensor) causing the oil pressure lamp indicator to never come on?
It's possible and easy to check. Set your DMM to measure voltage, attach the negative lead to a good ground, and disconnect the single wire from the pressure switch.
If the bulb doesn't come on check for the presence of 12 volts with the key on engine off at the pressure switch wire if it's there the 12 volt supply to the bulb, the indicator bulb, and the wire leading to the pressure switch are fine. You can also ground out the switch wire to get extra confirmation the indicator should come on. If it does the pressure switch is bad.
If 12 volts is not present you either have a bad bulb in the cluster, an open in the pressure switch wire, or a bad 12 volt supply to the bulb. At that point I'd pull the instrument cluster and check the bulb since it's the most likely culprit.
Got it, Thanks! I will let you know what I find!
A 27mm deep socket worked on 90 Accord, if anyone curious.
Would it not be easier if you had removed the oil filter before replacing the oil pressure switch?
The oil was recently changed on this vehicle so I wanted to avoid having to top it off when I was done. Oil filters store quite a bit of oil in them after the engine has been shut off.
Horizontally mounted filters like this one spill that oil onto what seems like every conceivable surface under the vehicle while you're threading it off :-) another thing I wanted to avoid. It's no fun working with everything covered in oil.
You get used to working around things on modern vehicles I didn't feel like it was really in the way. If you want to take the opportunity to also change the oil and filter if you haven't recently go ahead.
do you have to disconnect anything from the battery first?
No there's no need the circuit isn't powered with the ignition switch off.
thanks! I'm debating if this is easy enough for a woman with no car experience besides changing the oil years ago when i was a young adventurous type...? I have a corolla 92.
It looks hard to get to is all, and the Toyota videos don't show the sealant.. is the thread sealant always necessary on all cars?
thanks!
the shop was going to charge me $80!
Ok so I’m driving and car cuts off while engine light was blinking.what can this be oil pressure switch?i checked oil and it’s good
Check for cracked solder joints on the main relay it supplies power to the PCM which controls the engine light.
what is the part number for sensor ?
has that got a v-tech engine ?
On my 1999 honda once it passes the one the oil light blinks what does that mean?
The drivers multiplex control unit which monitors the oil pressure switch wire is flashing the oil light because it saw the switch activate for a short period of time.
If the oil level is normal chances are the switch is bad.
Would this cause the car to tune off. When I turn on the a/c
no
my 2005 honda accord v6,it's leaking oil right by the oxygen sensor.can anybody help me.
what if that light keep flashing?
What about in a '03?
Same process. Oil pressure switches are just threaded into an oil passage on the engine. They're one of the few parts that don't vary much from vehicle to vehicle due to their simplicity.
im looking for one of these for my 92 accord but i keep finding em fit like from the 80s to 2000s are they all the same??? please help need it asap
WTF!! my 05 Accord has a stupid gold ring around the dam thing!! it wont come off!!! i sprayed it, torched it..nothing....
estan bin para aprender
I didnt use a special socket
Hace 1 mes
I was hoping that at the very end the red light came back up! damn
top video lied congratulations!