Hey Aaron loving the vids mate. During my apprenticeship(fitter and turner) I got stuck in the deburring section for 3 months, hated it! Another method to free up any stubborn pits is to make a scraper that conforms exactly to the profile of the teeth of the file, aluminium and brass work the best. Simply take some stock about 3/4 of an inch wide and rub in the same direction as the teeth it will form itself to the shape of the peaks and valleys, works a treat at cleaning out your file heaps better than the file card.
Thanks for watching mate! Good tip about the brass/aluminum file cleaner! I occasionally use round bar offcuts for exactly the purpose you describe if there are stubborn chips in there...
Yesterday I saw your tip with the chalk and today I tried it. Holy moley, I couldn´t believe the difference! It´s like I have a new file. Thanks a lot! Only tiny little scratches left, wich are a lot easier to fix than before. It´s fantastic you do those videos, helped me in many ways. Greetings from Germany
The only reason to use a bench or belt grinder over a file is really that it's quicker. I try to show hand-tools in my videos so that other people will want to have a go at the stuff I'm showing, if I only showed power tools then everyone would assume they need big, fancy, expensive power tools to do the work... I use power tools for my personal stuff as well, but for small things it's often easier/faster just to grab a file or a hacksaw. Good question!
I put one together, didn't take long to do. Works great. Thanks for posting this, lot of us out there that can't devote the cash for expensive power equipment to do the job.
I assume you mean the blue ones... They came from Reid Supply, they're Grobet brand. They're available separately and they're not expensive. I'm a big fan of them, they hold the tang of the file very firmly and they're quite comfortable! Glad you've liked the videos so far!
Thanks for the video....It's Good Knowledge to have about tools that are used in the trades. Alot of people don't know or even care about this kinda thing. But alot of us Do!!!
2020 and I'm here consulting your videos to start bladesmithing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, know that you've helped a lot of people achieve meaningful things in their lives!
For preventing rust I use Vapour Corrosion Inhibitors in my tool-chest, basically little boxes that emit a protective vapour that coats the files. I do this because I prefer or my tools not to be oily all the time. The other option is just to coat them with a light oil before putting them away WD-40 or Starret M-1 would both likely work just fine!
what file do i get to file down the side of a thick flat bar? i need to file down the side from 2 inch width down to 3 lines before reaching the 2 inch mark? so i think it 13__16th or 7/9 like i side 3 line before reaching the 2 inch mark i wish home depot could gran it down for me or cut a piece off the side i do not have any grinding tools of cutting tools just the wood saw cutting tool i do not have a vice also will have to make some like vice grips of some
why the heck are you not on the History channel? This channel and the wisdom you share is amazing, (thank you for sharing that with us by the way). It's better than watching the Discovery Channel.
Hey mate! I'm glad my editing is ok, that's one of the areas that I'm newest to in all this! Well it just so happens that if you're in Ontario you have a number of choices. If you want tool steel (O1, A2) then the best place I've found so far is KBC tools. You can order online or go to one of their stores. I order online, they ship the stuff from the US, but there's no customs fees or anything. They ship very quickly too! If I order in the morning I often get the stuff the next day.
Well I'm glad to hear that it provided some extra information! One of my biggest fears doing videos like this is that I'll lose subscribers who are already somewhat experienced. Thanks for the feedback!
I enjoy using a file. it seems like I have better control than I do when using a grinder or sander and the surface seems much easier to keep true. Thank you for the video, makes me want to go to the hardware store and shop for more files. I also enjoyed the filing jig video.
Thanks dude you really helped me in my school project thanks to you I got an A+ and a Reword for the best working student from my year in the "creative crafts" (Kind of wood/metal making stuff) so thanks once again :)
Hey Aaron, quick comment. I have read in multiple places that using oil on a file is a big no-no, and actually hinders the file's ability to cut the material. Files require friction for the teeth to dig and using oil actually will seem to make your file glide on the material and not cut it. Love you videos and help sir. Hope I have no stepped on any proverbial toes.
No toes to step on here! I always like new info! I have used oil on files quite a bit and haven't had any issues with it. I only use a VERY light coating though, not enough to coat the workpiece, I mainly want the oil in between the teeth of the file so that 'pins' (small pieces of metal) do not get stuck there, I have found that without oil you can get pins of steel or aluminum permanently stuck in between the teeth on the file which makes the file not cut as well. I can imagine using lots of oil for the purpose of aiding the cutting action could have the unintended consequences that you detail, although I will admit I have actually never tried it! -Aaron
Gough Custom Cool stuff. I haven't had to use anything on my files yet, but i am just starting my third knife. I have been an avid manufacturer of all sorts of hand made things in my life, but knives are new to me. I like the idea of using chalk to get the filings to fall out of the teeth. The files I use are a 12" course Pferd, which has huge teeth, about 3/32 deep, and a 12" double cut nicholson, which moves material well, but that Pferd is a real machine when it comes to stock removal. The teeth are so big that the "pins," as you call them, almost never get stuck. Aluminum is a whole different story. the soft stuff you get from home depot just seems to gum up a file in a couple strokes. thanks again
Hello Arron, nice vid. Could you please recommend an inductry shop grade file set that includes everything you just mentioned. Please no generic made in Brazil tools...
I subscribed! Thank you for taking the time to reach us the basics of time work! I am an old school and skills guy. Forge blades in the past and filed by hand to finish. I think your jigs and ideas are what I have looking for! I just don't enjoy using a grinder in any fashion. Nice video, well done, thanks again!
If you want to clean files very effectively then use a piece of copper about 40mm wide about 1mm thick. The copper can be about 60mm long but make a bead turn back to take away the sharp edges at the end your hand will be at. The front edge of the copper is pushed through the file along the line of the teeth. The file will cut the shape of the teeth into the copper, and the copper will then effectively remove the pinned material. The reason a file card is not used too often is that it is generally harder than the high carbon steel the file is made from and will wear the files cutting edges. The copper is softer, and will wear away but will do the job more efficiently as is has taken the shape of the files teeth and gets into remove the pinned material.
The flat copper face lets you clean 8-10 teeth at a time.Brass is as good as the copper. Vallorbe files from Switzerland are some of the best out there and the deserve to be treated with care!
i just started woodworking. i have always loved doing something by. hand. i am going to clean my filed.and now i know what to pick up at yard sales. ps have you ever had luck sharpening japanese hand saws. i bought one.at harbor 2 sizes at harbor freight. you could probably get them elseware. i love them i use them to cut to within a 32nd of inch. shame to say some of my hand tools are rusty. i am refurbishing a little at a time. i used vineger and water to take away rust.
good info. People should also know that the files they get from places like McMaster-Carr are great deal better. This is true even when they are the same brand and type as the ones you can at Home Cheapo or whatever. The industrial supply stores sell better stuff. Walmart saves money by selling thinner and weaker files with the same name as the better ones.
Yep good point! Often the industrial supply places have no-brand stuff that's really good as well. I try to steer people toward knowing their local industrial supply place whenever I can, they're always handy.
I don't think there are any sets that cover everything, and most sets won't be very good quality anyway to be honest. Just buy the files you need from a from a brand like nicholson or grobet and you should be fine. Make sure you spend a little extra and get good quality handles!
I'm making a box from Plexiglass. Going to make box or finger joints to join the box together, but I'm doing it with a table saw, and hand files. Was wondering if you knew of a type of files that were square and about 5mm in width.
Hello Aaron. Thanks for the great channel. I've been trying to get through most of your videos - great information, edit / production makes your channel very nice to watch. One question - where do you get your steel stock from? I've been looking around for local sources (Ontario) - seen some flat stock in CanTire but haven't got a clue what type of steel it is. Again, thanks and keep'em coming.
Excellent explanation, thanks! Question: if single-cut files leave a smoother surface finish, then why is the large blue-handled 'smooth' file a double-cut file? I assume it's mainly used for leaving a smooth surface finish, but wouldn't a single-cut file be better for that purpose?
how do you stop wire from getting bent? Meaning do you have special container for the wire brush or is it hanging someone where it's not bumping into other things?
I like the handles on your files. Where did you get those? Did they come on the files? Is so, what brand of files do you use? Thanks for the videos. Can't wait to see the filing jig video.
I knew I could find info on files within....Really helpfull info on how to choose the proper tools...Thanks a lot man...BTW, do you design you knifes from scratch right??I mean no pattern downloads and stuff....If so, can you share them???Or is it too much to ask????
Sorry mate, I don't share the design of my knives because I make part of my living from selling them. You're welcome to copy the design from photos, provided the knife will not be sold. -Aaron
Gough Custom Honestly I'm surprised you share as much about knife making as you do (being as you sell them). I do greatly appreciate all the lessons. So many people won't let any of us laymen in on the secrets (like heat treatment schedules and such). Hopefully it has only earned you more sales, if nothing more than from earned respect from the community. Cheers Aaron!
Max well My opinion is that being open and truthful will earn me more customers than just saying 'my heat-treatment is awesome', instead I show all the steps I went through to work out my heat-treatment, thereby showing what it's capable of. It's also much more gratifying for me to be able to share what I know! Thanks Max!
Hi, great video, thanks. I have a few questions if I may. Firstly, does the direction or the ridge matter? I have a large, coarse flat file but the ridges are curves, not straight lines. Is this a specific type of file? Also, I assume that a file would remain sharp due to the friction with the metal, but how, if ever, would I sharpen a file which I use for wood? Finally, for wood work, would a file be better or worse than sander? Or is it just a case of swapping the personal touch of the file for the speed of a sander? Thanks again, Dave.
The large flat file with the curved ridges sounds either like a wood rasp or a type of file called a 'float' which is designed for working with soft metals like lead. They were commonly used for auto-body work back in the day when lead was used as a body filler. Files and rasps all go dull with use, as far as I know there's no way to sharpen them.
Ahh well that makes sense. I got them from a relative who was a mechanic in his youth so you are probably right. He did have many other hobbies though including wood and metal work and so I wasn't sure which it would be for. Thanks for the reply.
What would be your recommendation for a first file for general purpose use on metal. In other words, if you could have only one, what would you suggest?
Excellent info. Thanks! What metal is used to manufacture files? I've breezed thru questions here and done a google search, but have yet to find an answer.
I think you left out the ultimate file technique. Patience. It ain't a power tool. You need to let the tool do its work. More, better placed passes is better than harder, roughly positioned passes. Oh I don't have that much time you say? Doing it right once saves more time than screwing it up and having to rework it.
I learned a couple things here at the ripe old age of 67. Thank you. Nice job. Good presentation.
Thanks Larry! Great to hear!
Life is all about learning.............
Mr X I watched it again. This guy is a good teacher. No glam ...gets to the point...NO PUN INTENDED...Nice to see it again and review. I am 71 now.
@@GoughCustom 4 years later and I, too, learned stuff I should already have known, also 67. Cheers, mate!
Hey Aaron loving the vids mate. During my apprenticeship(fitter and turner) I got stuck in the deburring section for 3 months, hated it!
Another method to free up any stubborn pits is to make a scraper that conforms exactly to the profile of the teeth of the file, aluminium and brass work the best. Simply take some stock about 3/4 of an inch wide and rub in the same direction as the teeth it will form itself to the shape of the peaks and valleys, works a treat at cleaning out your file heaps better than the file card.
Thanks for watching mate! Good tip about the brass/aluminum file cleaner! I occasionally use round bar offcuts for exactly the purpose you describe if there are stubborn chips in there...
Nice! People are often amazed that you can make beautiful refined things with only hand-tools!
Yesterday I saw your tip with the chalk and today I tried it. Holy moley, I couldn´t believe the difference! It´s like I have a new file. Thanks a lot! Only tiny little scratches left, wich are a lot easier to fix than before. It´s fantastic you do those videos, helped me in many ways. Greetings from Germany
+Stefan Krüger Hey Stefan! Very glad the video was helpful mate!
+Sangam Swadik Glad to hear mate!
The only reason to use a bench or belt grinder over a file is really that it's quicker. I try to show hand-tools in my videos so that other people will want to have a go at the stuff I'm showing, if I only showed power tools then everyone would assume they need big, fancy, expensive power tools to do the work...
I use power tools for my personal stuff as well, but for small things it's often easier/faster just to grab a file or a hacksaw.
Good question!
All of what i need is on your video.. thanks a lot for ur tutorials sir..
You're very welcome!
I put one together, didn't take long to do. Works great. Thanks for posting this, lot of us out there that can't devote the cash for expensive power equipment to do the job.
Very glad the video was helpful mate!
This Guy is nothing but a pro!Thanks for the tips. Great Stuff.
Thanks Jim! hopefully the video was helpful!
I assume you mean the blue ones... They came from Reid Supply, they're Grobet brand. They're available separately and they're not expensive. I'm a big fan of them, they hold the tang of the file very firmly and they're quite comfortable!
Glad you've liked the videos so far!
No wasted time, thank you so much for the great video
Cheers mate!
At last a video showing how to use a file card, thank you
No worries mate!
I feel like i know a lot about the tools i am using until i watch you. Thank you and keep making videos like this!
Yes, I used a double-cut bastard file when filing the bevels on the jig.
Thanks man! Been waitimg for a video like this for a while. I wanna start using hand file, this was very helpful.
I too learned a few things here and I’ve been a union carpenter for past 31 years. Great job and thanks for sharing!
No worries at all mate!
Thank you so much! I am not a metal worker by any means but i love making custom cars. This info helped a lot, I almost bought the wrong set.
Glad the video was helpful Chris!
Thanks for the video....It's Good Knowledge to have about tools that are used in the trades. Alot of people don't know or even care about this kinda thing. But alot of us Do!!!
2020 and I'm here consulting your videos to start bladesmithing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, know that you've helped a lot of people achieve meaningful things in their lives!
Awesome mate! Really glad to be able to help!
Cool same
Simple and clear. I enjoyed this lesson very informative.
Thanks Aaron.
Thanks, glad you liked it!
For preventing rust I use Vapour Corrosion Inhibitors in my tool-chest, basically little boxes that emit a protective vapour that coats the files. I do this because I prefer or my tools not to be oily all the time.
The other option is just to coat them with a light oil before putting them away WD-40 or Starret M-1 would both likely work just fine!
what file do i get to file down the side of a thick flat bar? i need to file down the side from 2 inch width down to 3 lines before reaching the 2 inch mark? so i think it 13__16th or 7/9 like i side 3 line before reaching the 2 inch mark i wish home depot could gran it down for me or cut a piece off the side i do not have any grinding tools of cutting tools just the wood saw cutting tool i do not have a vice also will have to make some like vice grips of some
Yes! I just finished shooting the video for showing the filing jig yesterday. Once it's edited I will be uploading it, should be up soon.
Thanks dude. Handy to know. An Aussie in Canada? I checked out your knives...awesome.
Thanks bud! Yeah Aussie living in Canada since '06!
Aaron, you're a natural born teacher.
Thanks very much mate! Funnily enough I don't think I'm a terribly great teacher in person, I find it much easier in the videos...
Anyway you're great. Thanks again.
why the heck are you not on the History channel? This channel and the wisdom you share is amazing, (thank you for sharing that with us by the way). It's better than watching the Discovery Channel.
Hey mate! I'm glad my editing is ok, that's one of the areas that I'm newest to in all this!
Well it just so happens that if you're in Ontario you have a number of choices. If you want tool steel (O1, A2) then the best place I've found so far is KBC tools. You can order online or go to one of their stores. I order online, they ship the stuff from the US, but there's no customs fees or anything. They ship very quickly too! If I order in the morning I often get the stuff the next day.
Well I'm glad to hear that it provided some extra information! One of my biggest fears doing videos like this is that I'll lose subscribers who are already somewhat experienced.
Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you for a clear, concise video. You answered a lot of questions for this gal!
Glad to hear Peggy!!
Always something to learn on Aaron’s channel!
🇬🇧👍🇦🇺
Glad you think so mate!
@@GoughCustom
Making my 1st knife, so always check in!
I never new about file cards. Thanks for the great video
I enjoy using a file. it seems like I have better control than I do when using a grinder or sander and the surface seems much easier to keep true. Thank you for the video, makes me want to go to the hardware store and shop for more files. I also enjoyed the filing jig video.
Thanks mate! Glad you liked the video
Thanks Lee! Glad you liked it!
I am currently working my practicals. Thank you sir
No worries, best of luck!
Nicholson are like the best files ever my grandpa has a crap ton of them and are AWESOME!
Nice, glad that you like them! The old ones in particular are good!
Thanks dude you really helped me in my school project thanks to you I got an A+ and a Reword for the best working student from my year in the "creative crafts" (Kind of wood/metal making stuff) so thanks once again :)
Butterfly Project done Awesome mate, nice work!
Cool to run across this file video, then realize it's by Aaron Gough of whom I have an amazing Gough Custom knife! 👍
Hope it was helpful David!
Definitely! I learned I need a half-round fine file. Also, your knife is superb! Sincere Best and Appreciation! Dave
Too nice explanation I can watch up lessons whole day tnx a lot bro
+shaik karimulla no worries mate!
Great tips on choosing and using files! This helped me a lot.
Excellent, good to hear mate!
No worries mate! Thanks for watching!
Very helpful for rookies like me. More videos please. Thanks! 😄
Glad it was helpful mate!
Glad you found it helpful!
Great tips. Learned so much from your video. Thanks so much!
No worries mate, glad it was helpful!
Hey Aaron,
quick comment. I have read in multiple places that using oil on a file is a big no-no, and actually hinders the file's ability to cut the material. Files require friction for the teeth to dig and using oil actually will seem to make your file glide on the material and not cut it.
Love you videos and help sir. Hope I have no stepped on any proverbial toes.
No toes to step on here! I always like new info!
I have used oil on files quite a bit and haven't had any issues with it. I only use a VERY light coating though, not enough to coat the workpiece, I mainly want the oil in between the teeth of the file so that 'pins' (small pieces of metal) do not get stuck there,
I have found that without oil you can get pins of steel or aluminum permanently stuck in between the teeth on the file which makes the file not cut as well.
I can imagine using lots of oil for the purpose of aiding the cutting action could have the unintended consequences that you detail, although I will admit I have actually never tried it!
-Aaron
Gough Custom Cool stuff. I haven't had to use anything on my files yet, but i am just starting my third knife. I have been an avid manufacturer of all sorts of hand made things in my life, but knives are new to me. I like the idea of using chalk to get the filings to fall out of the teeth.
The files I use are a 12" course Pferd, which has huge teeth, about 3/32 deep, and a 12" double cut nicholson, which moves material well, but that Pferd is a real machine when it comes to stock removal. The teeth are so big that the "pins," as you call them, almost never get stuck.
Aluminum is a whole different story. the soft stuff you get from home depot just seems to gum up a file in a couple strokes.
thanks again
Michael Derstine That big file sounds like fun! Can't say I've ever seen one like that...
Hello Arron, nice vid. Could you please recommend an inductry shop grade file set that includes everything you just mentioned. Please no generic made in Brazil tools...
Good job, very helpful information, just what I needed, thanks.
No worries Clint!
Very Educational! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Cool video. I've been looking for all this information. thank you for your time.
+Nitin Bhosale No worries at all mate!
I subscribed! Thank you for taking the time to reach us the basics of time work! I am an old school and skills guy. Forge blades in the past and filed by hand to finish. I think your jigs and ideas are what I have looking for! I just don't enjoy using a grinder in any fashion. Nice video, well done, thanks again!
Glad the videos have been helpful Michael! Thanks for the kind words!
This is a great video. Thank you for making it!
Very informative. Thank you!
good clear video.
If you want to clean files very effectively then use a piece of copper about 40mm wide about 1mm thick. The copper can be about 60mm long but make a bead turn back to take away the sharp edges at the end your hand will be at. The front edge of the copper is pushed through the file along the line of the teeth. The file will cut the shape of the teeth into the copper, and the copper will then effectively remove the pinned material.
The reason a file card is not used too often is that it is generally harder than the high carbon steel the file is made from and will wear the files cutting edges.
The copper is softer, and will wear away but will do the job more efficiently as is has taken the shape of the files teeth and gets into remove the pinned material.
+Ciaran O'Loughlin I haven't tried it with copper, but I have done the same thing with a brass rod, and that works pretty well too!
The flat copper face lets you clean 8-10 teeth at a time.Brass is as good as the copper.
Vallorbe files from Switzerland are some of the best out there and the deserve to be treated with care!
It takes some time but I always use files to clean up the bevels on the knives I make which are made from old used files
i just started woodworking. i have always loved doing something by. hand. i am going to clean my filed.and now i know what to pick up at yard sales. ps have you ever had luck sharpening japanese hand saws. i bought one.at harbor 2 sizes at harbor freight. you could probably get them elseware. i love them i use them to cut to within a 32nd of inch. shame to say some of my hand tools are rusty. i am refurbishing a little at a time. i used vineger and water to take away rust.
+James Ready Sounds like a good hobby mate!
hey would you tell me how to remove rust with vinegar and water??
Nice vid! Hello from a distant relative across the pond!
Cheers Steve!
I'm glad it was useful!
Yes very informative thanks for posting the video.
Glad it was helpful!
good info. People should also know that the files they get from places like McMaster-Carr are great deal better. This is true even when they are the same brand and type as the ones you can at Home Cheapo or whatever. The industrial supply stores sell better stuff. Walmart saves money by selling thinner and weaker files with the same name as the better ones.
Yep good point! Often the industrial supply places have no-brand stuff that's really good as well. I try to steer people toward knowing their local industrial supply place whenever I can, they're always handy.
I don't think there are any sets that cover everything, and most sets won't be very good quality anyway to be honest. Just buy the files you need from a from a brand like nicholson or grobet and you should be fine.
Make sure you spend a little extra and get good quality handles!
thanks mate, great explanations
No worries at all! Hope the video was helpful!
Is there a reason that you use files and hacksaws instead of bench grinders , belt sanders etc.?
I'm making a box from Plexiglass. Going to make box or finger joints to join the box together, but I'm doing it with a table saw, and hand files. Was wondering if you knew of a type of files that were square and about 5mm in width.
Are there any type of files mounted in a jig where it would help file one edge square with another?
thank you sir,
it is very informative.
No worries!
Good video, very informative and well done.
+Peter M Thanks Peter! Hope it was helpful!
Very helpful and well explained!
really enjoyed watching that bud, thank you for sharing, take care. lee.
The name "file card" comes from the "card cloth" attached to the brush frame. Card cloth was used in machines that card wool.
Cool! I didn't know that!
Great video my good chap (United Statesian trying to sound English).
Glad it was helpful mate!
Hello Aaron. Thanks for the great channel. I've been trying to get through most of your videos - great information, edit / production makes your channel very nice to watch. One question - where do you get your steel stock from? I've been looking around for local sources (Ontario) - seen some flat stock in CanTire but haven't got a clue what type of steel it is. Again, thanks and keep'em coming.
Great video
Excellent explanation, thanks!
Question: if single-cut files leave a smoother surface finish, then why is the large blue-handled 'smooth' file a double-cut file?
I assume it's mainly used for leaving a smooth surface finish, but wouldn't a single-cut file be better for that purpose?
thanks I am learning engineer and this is very useful😃😃
Glad to hear!
Thanks mate!
Kindly clarify Which type of file can use for stainless steel material to avoid contamination.
how do you stop wire from getting bent? Meaning do you have special container for the wire brush or is it hanging someone where it's not bumping into other things?
+pgb twoofive The wire is very, very stiff, no need to worry about it getting bent!
I like the handles on your files. Where did you get those? Did they come on the files? Is so, what brand of files do you use? Thanks for the videos. Can't wait to see the filing jig video.
Very informative! Thanks!
+TitusLivy777 Glad to hear mate!
Perfect video
Great Video!
Thanks mate!
I knew I could find info on files within....Really helpfull info on how to choose the proper tools...Thanks a lot man...BTW, do you design you knifes from scratch right??I mean no pattern downloads and stuff....If so, can you share them???Or is it too much to ask????
Sorry mate, I don't share the design of my knives because I make part of my living from selling them. You're welcome to copy the design from photos, provided the knife will not be sold.
-Aaron
Gough Custom Sure do man....Im planning ond doin one for my own use...If I can pull it out!!!!Thanks nonetheless for the quick answer!!!
Gough Custom
Honestly I'm surprised you share as much about knife making as you do (being as you sell them). I do greatly appreciate all the lessons. So many people won't let any of us laymen in on the secrets (like heat treatment schedules and such). Hopefully it has only earned you more sales, if nothing more than from earned respect from the community. Cheers Aaron!
Max well My opinion is that being open and truthful will earn me more customers than just saying 'my heat-treatment is awesome', instead I show all the steps I went through to work out my heat-treatment, thereby showing what it's capable of. It's also much more gratifying for me to be able to share what I know!
Thanks Max!
so I am pretty new at this but I was wonder what types of file should be use when beveling a knife
+Matthew Toman Hey Matthew! When beveling a blade I would recommend using a 12" double cut bastard file.
Thanks for the info I really appreciate it.
Você sabe me dizer qual a dureza e qual aço a nikelsom usa nas suas limas retas de 8 polegadas e de 10 polegadas ?
Hello, do you think it would be possible to clean a file using a magnet? to collect all the metal pins
It's worth trying!
Sorry mate, you'll have to explain a little more as I'm not sure what an 'AR for 450' is...
Very helpful video! To cut a soft, unremovable, corroded metal spud stuck in a 2"-tub drain, should I use a cut-triangle or cut-round file? Thank you
Can't say I know what to do regarding your situation without seeing the problem myself, hope you get it worked out!
Hi, great video, thanks.
I have a few questions if I may. Firstly, does the direction or the ridge matter? I have a large, coarse flat file but the ridges are curves, not straight lines. Is this a specific type of file?
Also, I assume that a file would remain sharp due to the friction with the metal, but how, if ever, would I sharpen a file which I use for wood?
Finally, for wood work, would a file be better or worse than sander? Or is it just a case of swapping the personal touch of the file for the speed of a sander?
Thanks again, Dave.
The large flat file with the curved ridges sounds either like a wood rasp or a type of file called a 'float' which is designed for working with soft metals like lead. They were commonly used for auto-body work back in the day when lead was used as a body filler.
Files and rasps all go dull with use, as far as I know there's no way to sharpen them.
Ahh well that makes sense. I got them from a relative who was a mechanic in his youth so you are probably right. He did have many other hobbies though including wood and metal work and so I wasn't sure which it would be for.
Thanks for the reply.
Which file is used for filing sheet metal
For sharpening scissors etc do you use a smooth file and draw filing?
I honestly have never sharpened scissors!
thanks from germany
What would be your recommendation for a first file for general purpose use on metal. In other words, if you could have only one, what would you suggest?
Thanks for the video =)
Where do I get a rough file?
love the videos and info
Need to do a size comparison. How long are the three blue handle ones?
The blue handle ones are about 12" not including the handle
Excellent info. Thanks!
What metal is used to manufacture files? I've breezed thru questions here and done a google search, but have yet to find an answer.
Usually it's a low carbon steel that is 'carburized' to form a high carbon outer layer that can then be heat-treated!
I think you left out the ultimate file technique. Patience. It ain't a power tool. You need to let the tool do its work. More, better placed passes is better than harder, roughly positioned passes. Oh I don't have that much time you say? Doing it right once saves more time than screwing it up and having to rework it.
+gus bisbal Yep, that's a very good point!
Yrp work smart not hard and careless
hey mate the video truly helped in engeneering assignment .it would be really helful if u could tell me various applications of filing!!! :)
+Srikar Reddy Glad it was helpful! Any manner of shaping of metal can be done with files, not sure what kind of specific uses you're looking for.
Thanks for the info
Wish I could afford one of your blades, the way you do the glass breaker looks so fresh
Thanks! Really glad you like my work!
Can u show us how u make your grinding jig.
File very underrated tool.
I totally agree!
Which file do you normally use when filling the bevel with your DIY Jig?
The best file for that is a 12" double cut bastard file
@@GoughCustom Thank you! Your videos are inspiring!