Excellent video. Thanks. I’m just getting started in home machining. What text or written material do you recommend. I have a Machinery’s Handbook but really would like more resources. I have taken one Machine Shop course at local community college and plan on more with a mill class next. I am twice retired , (lawyer and Soldier) with time to study and I have a small home lathe.
There are a bunch of good books. The first ones I bought were Machine Tool Practice vol 1 and 2 by Karl Moltrecht and Machine Shop Training Course vol 1 and 2 by Franklin Jones. I also hit up used book stores every now and then to see what I can find. The pickings can be pretty slim depending on where you live, but I've had decent luck sometimes. It helps to be in a college town. South Bend put out a book called Machine Shop Projects that was being reprinted by Lindsay Publishing. That can give you some good starting projects. Of course, feel free to ask me any questions you might have. I'm more than happy to help.
Thanks, Stuart! A bonus feature of a safe-edged file is that it will cut better into an inside corner. You just have to turn it to cut the other side of the corner, as a second step. A regular file will leave a fillet in an inside corner. Clickspring has a good video of filing tips.
Absolutely loved this video. Really informative and I have to admit I do enjoy file work, I find hand finishing very relaxing. The bit about keeping files for separate metals is such a good tip too.
Good Morning Stuart I was told by a machinist that files are acid sharpened so the cutting edges are very fragile. If you use light strokes to “Break In” the file the file will stay sharper long. I found this to be true when using chainsaw files. Cheers Glenn
Thanks for the info about files! The info about files seems exhaustive?? Sometimes I get a burr stuck in my file teeth that the file card will not remove it! SO.... I tried many things.... however the thing that works very well is a sharpen tungsten “TIG” welding stick, 3/32” is the size I use...... works every time ! 👍🏼
Handy hint, if you really want to use a 6 inch file without a handle to have it live in the pen pocket of yer shop coat, wodge a bit of stiff air tube on the tang, melt the end over smooth. Presto now it wont give you a possibly wrist disabling injury ;-)
You need separate files for use on stainless steel especially if you will be welding the area filed. The same with wire brushes. Stainless for use on SS and Carbon for use on carbon steel. Otherwise this is a great video.
I thought a Mill file was specifically for sharpening blades in saw mills...? (I have a lot of files. Several bastard ones. All of very fine origin (Sandvik, Öberg, Friedrich Dick, Nicholson (older ones), etc). Only 1 that's marked as a 'Mill' file (and is shaped in a way that makes sense for a large circular saw). It's also one of the hardest files I have. This one cuts almost every type of steel - even several types of hardened steel (including 440C stainless.. So like 60HRC)) Also have a chainsaw sharpening file - that cuts almost any steel too. So... I guess my question is: not every bastard file is a bastard Mill file, right...? - Also: any way to tell the hardness of a file? (Besides trial and error, I mean) Thx for your clear and concise videos btw.
Standard American Pattern Files: Bastard -> Second Cut -> Smooth Cut .... not sure what you meant about the bastard being "in-between?" A rasp is more course of course but so is this Thia Special I have hanging on the wall. And their are plenty of Swiss pattern file which are double cut, in fact all of my Swiss made Nicholson file are double cut. Ill be happy to send you one if you? and toss in one of my favorites (6" Hand double cut Nicholson USA new old stock) let me know where if you want. Great video btw
Hi Myra. That would be a good one. I did make a video a few years ago on milling without a DRO. You can find it here: th-cam.com/video/LDEqRl-FYKM/w-d-xo.html
@@StuartdeHaro Hi, Stuart. Watched the video again and must have missed this the first time around. I also label my Al files. The rough cut file that you recommended for aluminum, is it a Vexen file? If so, I have a bunch. Haven't tried them on aluminum, but sure will.
@@felixf5211 That one is a Grobet file. I don't really like it actually. It really digs in, even on the finer side of the file. It's pretty hard to get a decent finish on edges, although it works okay on faces.
thank you for taking the time to upload the video. i have a question: if a person doesn't have a file card, can a wire brush or wire wheel on a bench grinder be used to clean a file? or will those options cause damage to the file?
You know, after watching a bunch of videos about files, I am realizing the ones they give us at school must be super old and dull. Since they don't remove any burrs, or I swear, add more.
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Excellent video. Thanks. I’m just getting started in home machining. What text or written material do you recommend. I have a Machinery’s Handbook but really would like more resources. I have taken one Machine Shop course at local community college and plan on more with a mill class next. I am twice retired , (lawyer and Soldier) with time to study and I have a small home lathe.
There are a bunch of good books. The first ones I bought were Machine Tool Practice vol 1 and 2 by Karl Moltrecht and Machine Shop Training Course vol 1 and 2 by Franklin Jones. I also hit up used book stores every now and then to see what I can find. The pickings can be pretty slim depending on where you live, but I've had decent luck sometimes. It helps to be in a college town. South Bend put out a book called Machine Shop Projects that was being reprinted by Lindsay Publishing. That can give you some good starting projects. Of course, feel free to ask me any questions you might have. I'm more than happy to help.
Thanks, Stuart!
A bonus feature of a safe-edged file is that it will cut better into an inside corner. You just have to turn it to cut the other side of the corner, as a second step. A regular file will leave a fillet in an inside corner.
Clickspring has a good video of filing tips.
Exactly right.
yep I stone the razz off with a new 'un for the same reason :-)
Absolutely loved this video. Really informative and I have to admit I do enjoy file work, I find hand finishing very relaxing.
The bit about keeping files for separate metals is such a good tip too.
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Good Morning Stuart
I was told by a machinist that files are acid sharpened so the cutting edges are very fragile. If you use light strokes to “Break In” the file the file will stay sharper long. I found this to be true when using chainsaw files.
Cheers
Glenn
They can be. I've never tried it myself but that might make for a good video when the weather warms up.
Thanks for the info about files! The info about files seems exhaustive?? Sometimes I get a burr stuck in my file teeth that the file card will not remove it! SO.... I tried many things.... however the thing that works very well is a sharpen tungsten “TIG” welding stick, 3/32” is the size I use...... works every time ! 👍🏼
Good video I didnt know alot of these things.....I usually just buy lots on ebay until I find one I like haha
Very good video, thank you.
Handy hint, if you really want to use a 6 inch file without a handle to have it live in the pen pocket of yer shop coat, wodge a bit of stiff air tube on the tang, melt the end over smooth. Presto now it wont give you a possibly wrist disabling injury ;-)
Nice
Great explanation- nicely done. Thank you.
Hello. General Kenobi.
It's a real good idea to chalk a file to be used with soft metals. Keeps the teeth from getting badly clogged.
Now we're just going to request a descent into a stream of mind numbing details.
"What a bunch of weirdos"....Hey,I resemble that remark!
So do I my friend. So do I.
Great video. I enjoyed the jokes. Keep up great work.
What a coincidence, I enjoyed making the jokes. Thanks for watching!
You need separate files for use on stainless steel especially if you will be welding the area filed. The same with wire brushes. Stainless for use on SS and Carbon for use on carbon steel. Otherwise this is a great video.
Good to know. I can barely weld steel, let alone stainless, so it has never come up.
I thought a Mill file was specifically for sharpening blades in saw mills...?
(I have a lot of files. Several bastard ones. All of very fine origin (Sandvik, Öberg, Friedrich Dick, Nicholson (older ones), etc).
Only 1 that's marked as a 'Mill' file (and is shaped in a way that makes sense for a large circular saw). It's also one of the hardest files I have. This one cuts almost every type of steel - even several types of hardened steel (including 440C stainless.. So like 60HRC))
Also have a chainsaw sharpening file - that cuts almost any steel too.
So... I guess my question is: not every bastard file is a bastard Mill file, right...?
-
Also: any way to tell the hardness of a file? (Besides trial and error, I mean)
Thx for your clear and concise videos btw.
Standard American Pattern Files: Bastard -> Second Cut -> Smooth Cut .... not sure what you meant about the bastard being "in-between?" A rasp is more course of course but so is this Thia Special I have hanging on the wall. And their are plenty of Swiss pattern file which are double cut, in fact all of my Swiss made Nicholson file are double cut. Ill be happy to send you one if you? and toss in one of my favorites (6" Hand double cut Nicholson USA new old stock) let me know where if you want. Great video btw
Very good
Carbide tip nomenclature
That's on my list.
Please do a video on dealing with backlash, (dont have DRO installed yet).
Hi Myra. That would be a good one. I did make a video a few years ago on milling without a DRO. You can find it here:
th-cam.com/video/LDEqRl-FYKM/w-d-xo.html
I'll select "mind numbing details" for two hundred Alex :)
Excellent video.
Thanks Felix!
@@StuartdeHaro Hi, Stuart. Watched the video again and must have missed this the first time around. I also label my Al files. The rough cut file that you recommended for aluminum, is it a Vexen file? If so, I have a bunch. Haven't tried them on aluminum, but sure will.
@@felixf5211 That one is a Grobet file. I don't really like it actually. It really digs in, even on the finer side of the file. It's pretty hard to get a decent finish on edges, although it works okay on faces.
thank you for taking the time to upload the video. i have a question: if a person doesn't have a file card, can a wire brush or wire wheel on a bench grinder be used to clean a file? or will those options cause damage to the file?
I'd go with a chip brush or paintbrush before a wire wheel. If the chips aren't coming out, trim the bristles shorter to make them stiffer.
The simply means saddle bag baby. Basically came from the Napoleonic wars. dictionary.
You know, after watching a bunch of videos about files, I am realizing the ones they give us at school must be super old and dull. Since they don't remove any burrs, or I swear, add more.
I'm familiar with that situation. When a file skates across aluminum it might be time to get a different one.
My lathe file has safe edges.
Store my files in pvc water pipe cut offs