BRAKE TEST! CHEAP vs DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS & PERFORMANCE PADS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
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Pre-Order your stickers and t-shirts through the link above! Can cheap pads and rotors stop the same as drilled and slotted rotors with performance pads? A lot comes down to the driver in a Civic without ABS brakes. Thanks for watching!
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Brake upgrades are for fading resistance and braking consistency, rather than braking distance. A good rule is if you can lock up the tires, even the shittiest brakes are working. It’s those cheap economy tires you mentioned that need upgrading for better stopping distance.
I am surprised at that stopping distance for a car that lightweight. Definitely upgrade that rubber.
Cool vid!
I could for sure tell the upgraded stuff felt more consistant but as I mentioned in the video too, I am very much still learning how the new brakes feel. Yeah, I agree, the tires are very meh. AA traction rating for their class but they are a 500 treadwear. I used to always run a 300 treadwear Yokohomas S. Drive. May be time to go back to that! Thanks for watching!
@Mikie Jones I would say it's really important, because it's a hygroscopic fluid, that means it absorbs water and that degrades the properties of the fluid, lowering it's boiling point, if the fluid boils, that's going to create air bubbles, and air is compressible, so you'll need more pedal travel in order to brake or worse, you could not be able to brake at all. If you keep a really old fluid in your brake system, it's highly probably that has water on it, so in order to maintain your brake properties you have to flush it "regularly", this depends of course of the climate where you live, if it's a high humidity one, I would flush it more often than in a dry weather. Also, if there's water on your brake system, that can lead into corrosion.
You would see a huge improvement on a track situation. There would be much less fading under constant breaking compared to the stock.
“Wow that was easy!”
Said nobody who’s owned a Midwest Honda... I’ve snapped so many bolts it makes me dread doing any underbody work on my cars haha.
Great video man, hatch looks good as always!
bruh fr
That 24ft is the difference between killing someone and not....It is worth it. Safety is worth it always IMO.
Glad to “see” Travis is back!
It’s always been my understanding that overall stopping distance is improved with better pads and tires when keeping OEM braking setup(same rotor size, OEM booster and calipers etc). The rotors tend to play a smaller roll in the package for daily driving.
When tracking/hotlapping a car the pads/rotors play a huge roll when it comes to brake fade and consistency which I’m sure you know from your track days.
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
Great video! You did a great job on performing that test.
Did you bed the new pads?
The biggest way to improve your stopping distance is actually better tires. If you can lock up your brakes and skid, a bigger caliper or better pads won't help, the next step is the tire. A better tire will prevent the skid because it has more grip. Hopefully I explained it well enough. I read a more elegant explanation of that on a forum awhile back and it changed my thinking on how to upgrades my brakes.
Im searching for a suitable brake upgrade for my Mini. One thing I've read on the description from sellers is that performance brake pads need a few hundred miles to break in. So I imagine your experience has improved since making this video.
Better brake won't make your braking shorter, it will make it more consistent, and loose less bite under heat, you should have the same braking distance with both but you don't because maybe you were more enthusiast with the new one, or just putting not enought braking force, but still a great video cheer, some pads need a bit of heat into them to get a better friction coefficient
My guess is that shopping times improved in both situations because your tires got warmer with each attempt.
And I would say most of the variation of stopping is you trying to judge exactly when you start applying the brakes at 60 miles an hour. You can easily be off 10 or 20 ft by time you look at a cone and apply the brakes. You traveled about 9 ft every 10th of a second.. therefore 2/10 of a second which is really hard to even judge is about 20 ft. But thanks for the video it was very entertaining.
This I gotta see.
These "educational" vids are my favorite kind.
Im building a ek too cant wait to see when your build done
There going to screech n squel if your braking hard that's completely fine. Could also have taped a stick on rear or front bumper to get an accurate measurement, great video tho🤙
did you do the break in procedure before testing the hawk pads and rotors that they tell you to do for proper performance?
Honda Dude
@@braineater713 what?
Do you think the test would have been more effective if you had put on new blank rotors and new stock pads with new fluid and compared new to new? New performance street pads would likely fade a bit less in those stops but blank rotors usually stop very well at highway speeds and less, which is where it all matters on a street vehicle. As an example, ceramic pads have great bite and are perfect for most street use, but on a track, they fade like crazy and wear out quickly. Performance street pads are better for most “spirited” driving, do those a re good choice, but slotted rotors on the street doesn’t do anything for stopping distance. Pads and tires make the biggest difference.
Thats a good test. They probably help a little on normal sitiuations like this. Where they shine tho is on the track where you brake hard and frequent. They will cool and recover faster between turns as well as shed the evaporating pad and fade less during extreme repeated braking. Stock pads and rotors would get hot and faded and just stay that way. Half way through your run they would be half as effective or worse.
Did you bed the new brakes in for 500 miles before you went on these brake test runs? Just fitted and beeded in brakes will react differently.
Your not limited by braking force if you can easily lock up the wheels, the Only thing that will make your 60-0 times better on that setup is abs or wider/gripper tires… the improvements lie in the brake feel and reduced fade
Obviously if you can lock up on the stock brakes there's no point upgrading the brakes as they'll lock up at exactly the same point. If you upgrade your chassis/suspension/grip setup to outperform your brakes...then that's the point in which you should upgrade your brakes. Thought it'd drop this information in here as I cannot see a similar comment.
Interesting, the OEM discs are probably good quality and braking cold the OEM set up is actually very good. Seems for hard driving / racing with warm brakes the new setup is better. So a driver that doesn't drive hard might not see much difference. Makes sense as these upgrades are for performance use. I suppose the ultimate test would be new Honda pads and rotors vs the new aftermarket versions. I suspect the OEM Honda setup is actually very good when the parts are new.
Im not kidding when I say that I had just stopped at a red light, got a notification for this video, clicked on it, heard you guys had a B series sticker, and I went straight to your page to buy 2. All that under the couple of minutes at the red light 😆😅
You are awesome Cait! that’s some serious multitasking in a time crunch! haha
Why not just get gsr/ex brakes or even the itr bigbrake? Upgrading the stock DX brakes and rotor wont do much.
Tyres are what improves braking distance not rotors and pads. Upgrading the rotors and pads are to help keep them cool and prevent brake fade. Stick a decent set of tyres on your car and it will stop much better.
Sweet video man! Not hating but I think you forgot to wipe off the rotor coating. They shouldnt remain that greyish color. I almost made the same mistake on mine, except mine had a black coating. As far as I know you're supposed to wipe it off with brake cleaner. Towards the end of your video you can see the grey coating coming off in different areas of your rotor. I agree with many of the people below though. With proper break in and getting used to this set up I'm sure you could brake even sooner. You should do a follow up.
Did you do a proper bedding of the new pads and rotors???
Another great video buddy and keep up the good work and hope all is well with you and your family and keep living life to the fullest
Picked up a still single sticker! Perfect addition to my engine bay along my z6
Thank you very much! Yeah perfect, send us a picture if you can, we’re on Instagram and Facebook if you don’t already follow us
On your daily I am sure you have rubber brake lines which is a possible reason for both pad and rotors to be stopping cold at the same distance. Stainless steel lines supply more braking pressure to maximize the grip potential. If you want more I suggest upgrade and then test again would be nice to see those bro science numbers! I do like those rotors pretty slick!
Love the build man
I thought on drill slot rotors that your groves are suppose to go the opposite way of the rotation....if you flip yours around you would have even better results
I love EK's. I rolled in one once in the winter in a parking lot lmao
I take it you bedded them new discs and pads in before harsh breaking..intresting video though straight after have a long ass convo with my younger brother about the benefits of grooved and vented discs he doesn't get the contact surface is bigger then holes and saying thay shave the pads down lol obviously thay may wear down slightly because of grooves etc but not like he was saying as the pads don't give to inbed in holes grooves because the contact area around size if pads.he kind of give an understands it's about less heat and look nicer if u understand wot I mean....nice ek 1st time seeing.im sure to be checking more on it 👍
Your limit is almost always traction between the tire and the road. Stock brakes are more than adequate for street driving. You saw an improvement because you cheesed it.
The Internet experts are going to cry about this, but you actually downgraded your brakes when you installed drilled rotors.
Cool test. I could use some new brakes on my daily too.
NEW HEADLIGHTS FOR THE EK
I think more people are more concerned with the looks and the “cool” factor. The rotors are not the most important part of the braking system. The limiting factors will be the pads and the tires. The stock rotors are better and will provide better braking performance over drilled and slotted rotors.
On a positive note, the new brakes havent bed up that well yet. It should perform better after it does.
I’ve bed them in the recommend 20 stops from 50mph -15mph then I’ve driven the car a handful of times over two weeks before doing this video but yeah, i know what you mean, they can surely use more time to bed in with consistent driving. Thanks for watching!
Good to see the daily getting some love. Every bit counts, to stop that little bit shorter can be the difference. And to be able to do it consistently which this setup will do, should get you out of trouble. I run a more aggressive pad on my daily, and notice you need a couple of stops to get the heat into them, then it works a treat.
Great video!
Finna get me some merch!
Nice! Thanks for the upload!
I liked the video and the results of doing a pad and rotor swap, but to be fair I think you should have done the test with just the pads first and then adding the rotors in order to eliminate variables. But apart from that it was a good test with the expected results.
I came here to only comment, didn't bother watching a brake test video with a civic in the thumbnail.....lol.
Noticed with the stock brakes your gas was near E.....was it still on E with the upgraded brakes or was it full adding more weight to the car to stop?
good eye Sean! i tried to eyeball it but the car had maybe 1 gallon more I would guess with the second test. So not a significant amount more weight
LOL he said modulate the brakes and then he said the wheel thingy with the odometer. 😂
If you had traction control it would help
Does your slotted rotor &brake make some type of noise when pressing on them. Mine sound like when u have a piece of plastic paper out the window idk if thats normal but i have slotted rotors and semi new brakes on my 8gen just curious all four wheels and they stop real fast specially WHEN warm .
Yes that’s normal like a whistling sound. Means you have good brakes
Them tires are a big deal too when it comes to stopping also believe it or not suspension as well
For sure it all needs to work well together to get the most out of everything
Right on upgraded or not the brakes work, lmao so all is good. hawk for the win video is useful, love the content keep up the good work
Are you using the engine to brake at the same time, or pushing the clutch pedal in while braking?
it’s a good point to bring up. I pushed the clutch in for every run I did
Controlled harsh braking is better then just locking the breaks
Did you follow the bedding procedure before you tested the Hawks?
Absolutely
i think the first 2 brakes made the pads warm so may it assisted with braking sooner?
definitely Ema’d, with both the cheap brakes test and the new stuff I could feel the brakes getting stronger each run as they warmed up so that absolutely helped the car to stop sooner after a couple runs
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
What speed were driving up to that first pillon, clearly not 80moh right? Looks like 40-60mph orso
Ps this a manual right. How come I don't hear shifting between 40-80 mph? That's almost 2 gears?!
I kinda laughed after that first run with new pads, new disc and new fluid. Kinda out the brand to shame. Wasn't it even 2 ft longer, first was 124 if I recall it properly. Also heard a lot more tire skidding.
Ps how were you breaking? Full force or pumping?
Tires and pads are going to change your distance of stopping
Great content
New brakes take time to break in
You could have just subtracted the distance between cones instead of rolling the whole length again, haha.
Very good!
Oh...?So not Cheap rotors versus fancy rotors. Do you mean worn out brakes versus new brakes...
Probably should've bedded the pads in first
You comparing the old rotors/ pads with new ones. I bet you a new stock rotors and new pads will stop better. I think all that slotted / drilled rotors are just hype. Unless you really doing professional racing and The car is lighter if not just save the money and get the regular rotors.. next time
You could use a broom on the sand bro
I believe there was more sand in the second run
Tires make the real difference.
And shock absorbers, bushes and camber. And if you're on the track, cooling ducts and fresh brake fluid, good ceramic pads all work better than big brake conversions. The laws of physics don't take any notice of advertising.
Theyre really just meant to cool and not warp. They dont always stop faster. But my ex gf... i put drilled and slotted in her junk dodge neon. Because i get tired of turning her rotors every few month's. Wouldnt ya know it... this woman warped the drilled and slotted rotors.
Are still running that AEM fuel pump on that D16y8?
That pump is still in my white EG, yeah
@@RefineMovement Awesome! I'm on a hunt for a new fuel pump for my d16y8. And I looked up that fuel pump you have. I was like whoa that's expensive lol. Can I run a 255 walbro fuel pump on my stuck d16y8 without complications?
you need to brake in the brakes and rotors before you can test it out.
Yes, and I did. Hawk recommends 15-20 stops from 50mph down to 15mph and thats what I did. I didn't show it in this video because thats not what this video was about. Everything was properly bedded in 1 week before shooting this video though.
what hatch do you prefer the eg or the ek
That’s honestly not something I’ve thought about in that way. I guess I look at each car for what I use it for so I consider them totally different. The EK I use everyday and I really love it honestly. I’d like it to look better but I still love the car cause it’s just a simple, easy to maintain, cheap, fun to drive car. The EG has always been more of the project since I’m always working on it but I’ve had the most fun ever with certain moments on track with it. Great question, thank you!
hmmm this gives me ideas ....
so am I to understand you compared an older used rotor with older used pads and then compared them to brand new set of rotors and pads ??? is this correct ? if so, it's a super dumb video. I want to see brand new plain rotors and pads, vs. another new drilled/slotted rotors and pads, so I can see the diff. of stopping between the diiff. rotor types and pads / brands. What the heck was this.
This is pretty dumb. There's no significant difference when the brakes are cold, the reason you get performance pads is so they work when the brakes are hot. If you want better braking performance, the best thing would be to fix the ABS on that piece of shit so you aren't locking the brakes!
You fucking rolled forward more on the second go. You got off the brakes
Your not stopping faster because of the road and your hard compound tires
Get rid of that fucking death trap and get a decent car that has antilock brakes
Clean those dirty headlights please
first of all you used brand new fluid,pads, and rotors for the upgrade. Go back and put on on a brand new stock rotors, fresh fluid, and pads to give everything a fair chance. Not your shitty daily used rotors,fuild, and pads
when the car went a little more ahead you just count the extra meters why you didn't did the same with the lower distance but you count the whole distance from the begin?? just simple mathematics! also when brakes getting hotter they don't work better that's why better discs having wholes to get cooler not hotter. what makes car stop better is the warm tires not the warm discs brakes
Either way for counting it works dude. The brakes do need to warm up and be hot. Having cool brakes does not make them work better, there is a certain temp range where they work. Since I just drove out there not even 10 mins from my house, they needed to get some heat in them. Yes, I agree the tires need to be warm too
@@RefineMovement street car brakes working between 100 to 600C and race car brakes between 600 to 1500C. So the street car to have warm brakes need some seconds of good hard push on the pedal. The tires to be warm enough they need a good time of hard turning and braking. The brakes will be warm in the first seconds of your test the tires will be warm enough to work the best in the 6th brake test you did...or in the 10th braking test... So the most important in your test was to have warm tires and not warm brakes.
If you drive a manual you can downshift so expensive rotors are waste of money
Emergencies don’t give you the time to downshift for engine braking, it also just puts unnecessary stress on the engine and eats up your synchros + internals.. there’s a time and place for that; don’t cheap out on brakes. They’re the #1 most important factor in driving, other than having common sense. ABS and having non-bald tires helps too lol
@@sums6969I see your point and thanks. I guess I didn't look at it that way but yeah for emergency you do need good brakes.
So basically brand new rotors, pads and a brake fluid change helps you stop slightly sooner than old, worn out (and possibly warped) rotors, worn out pads and old, dirty brake fluid. I guarantee you brand new OEM pads and rotors would out perform those Hawk drilled and slotted.
LETS GOOOOOO🔥❤🔥
Let’s sloooooow ;) have a great day!
Cool 🆒
Should have bedded the brakes before the test.
I did, just not everything shown on camera
Yelling at the scream 90 no wait 70 shit 85
His resualt was 90 and im kicking my self in the ass because i was hella close
Time to upgrade tires
yeah that really was a limiting factor. these are 500 treadwear tires AA rating still though but so going to something stickier would make a huge difference
Check out my video! Tell me what you think about my 1997 Honda civic Hatchback DX? Also awesome video!
Shittest testing ever.