people also seem to forget that smaller rotors with less pistons and flat rotors can most often stop a wheel just as fast as a 10000 dollar setup, they both can lock the wheel. Big expensive brakes are just beneficial to do full blown stops over and over and not fade.
Good video. Best I’ve seen on the subject. Important point not discussed is that the cleaning effect provided by slots allows a more aggressive pad not used with street rotors due to grooving/off gassing-fade. Slotted rotors off gas fine and keep a smooth surface with aggressive metallics. Cryogenic treatment will also extend rotor life with aggressive pads.
You get the lowest temp on a solid rotor because it works like a heat sink, but on the track at high speeds and heavy braking slotted is best because it allows the escape of gases and dust. This will give you more brake pad surface to make contacts which will make the car stop faster. Now on a everyday driver you go with either solid or for those that like to push it on the highway like I do drilled & slotted.
I've just bought myself a full set of EBC drilled and slotted rotors and a set of EBC "Yellow stuff" pads for my Mazda CX-5. I reckon they have improved the stopping distance massively. I tow a 2 tonn caravan and can definitely tell the difference from the original OEM to EBC. Great video by the way! 👍🏻 😎🇬🇧
@@lexusgs4604 CX5 owner here. Outside the US where tongue standards are different these are rated for two tons. And with the turbo there’s 250hp and 320lb/ft torque from 1500-4000rpm…..so power wise, it’s better than many compact trucks
EBC sucks… we had slotted rotors and redstuff pads on a civic type r fk2. we were only driving „sporty“ on public roads (serpentines), didnt event brake too much. they went bad (overheated?) extremely quick, we were lucky to not have crashed. suddenly there was no more stopping power. the rotors had a blue colour to them when we checked them out. i also had the same ones on my 2016 WRX STI, even the stock rotors & pads had more grip… also the rotors deformed, didnt even do any sporty driving. if i brake at above 100km/h, the steering wheel is shaking. we have dba rotors & pads now, so far no issues & good performance
@@DerRusherI had good experience with EBC stuff . Just the Normal black stuff with their solid rotors. Direct OEM replacement. For street use (a bit sportier sometimes) There was an easily noticable difference compared to the OEM on my civic (8th gen. non-typeR) and I also replaced the OEM pads on my Mazda MX5 ND2 (with only 10k km) with Black stuff. And there IS a difference in the case of the MX5 too. Brake feels better and biting point much better now (there is actually one now) in my opinion. Maybe their other more expensive stuff doesn't worth the price, but I felt an immediate difference with their BlackStuff OEM replacement. I'm really glad I chenged them. BTW I'm not saying their black stuff or yellow stuff or whaterver are great products, maybe just on my 2 cars the OEM brake pads were really bad. On my 10th gen civc sport+ EU the OEM brakes are great for every day sportier use so there I will just continue to use the OEM ones.
Awesome video my friend, very informative, I am 59 years old years ago I always worked on my owned vehicles, I started my own business in 1980 painting decorating and maintenance services, I was blessed with making a decent wage so until I retired 3 years ago I started working on my vehicles again to save money on a budget now going to do a full brake job on my wife's minivan and was indecisive on which rotor and pads to use wanted the best I asked a couple of different mechanics and also called a few parts stores and still didn't know what the best way to go, thanks to you I was able to make the best decision on what braking system thank you again looking forward to other videos that you post you get an A-Plus my friend thank you again Marky Mark
What does your age and life decisions have to do with this? I’m sure everyone on TH-cam is glad your retired and built your own business. Your a smart man..
So basically for an everyday driver like myself, I’m sticking to my basic pads and rotors. No need for the fancy drilled and slotted stuff on my 2018 Nissan Murano. Just slap some good quality tires on there, with dependable, plain, quality, brakes and rotors. Thank you good sir.
For an everyday driver plus someone who occasionally tows a boat like myself, I'm upgrading to better & wider pads on my '16 F150. Just keep tires rotated & slap new ones on when needed. Sounds like drilled a/o slotted discs don't improve functionality enough to justify the extra cost.
@@caelenow2829 yeah, even with your knackered seals and metal to metal contact, total 15% increase in performance allows you full use of your pads instead of wasting that last 1mm. 🤣 I've seen bright yellow ones, I've heard these are good for a whole 100% increase, so good you can stop without discs or pads.
Best information I've found on this topic. I'm in the market for new brakes for my high performance street car. Thinking I might go with blank rotors with sport pads and some stainless brake lines now. Can't justify the excessive wear with the slotted rotors. The car won't be seeing any track use. Thanks for the video!
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
I used slotted rotors once and never again. They wore down the pads heaps quicker and you could feel the pad going over the slots thru the slightly pulsing brake pedal.
I've learned this when I started tracks days 15 years ago and save a lot because of this. Drilled is for looks and less reliable. If you are daily driving only in that car - get plain. If you are autocrossing or road coursing get slotted, good high temp capable pads and motul to prevent boiling.
I admire what he has done with his video but it sadly does not leave a lot of room for originality now that he has covered the majority of engineering topics related to cars. 🤷♂️
The benefit of slotted it that it keeps your pad surface perfectly smooth/level which in turn keeps the rotors from getting any inconsistencies so you won't end up with that vibration or wobble that can typically happen when solid rotors heat up or wear over time. It keeps everything in fuller contact. You won't regret your choice.
Something that is pretty interesting is that the Porsche brake rotors that have a drilled appearance are actually cast that way from the factory. They're not actually drilled. This makes them stronger than the rotors that have been drilled. It's still just an appearance thing, though.
I have always thought that drilled rotors provide better braking and hence a shorter braking distance. Nice to know now that they offer no braking benefit other than look. I also liked when he stated that slots on a rotor keep brake pads clean by offering scraping edges to remove dust and fades off the pads. I will consider slotted rotors for my vehicle from now on, thanks to this video.
Heh. I was just talking with my girlfriend yesterday, that I must be dumb, as I don't get, how "better" brakes contribute to shorter stoping distance in a SINGLE run, as presented in many brake disc/pads reviews. Nowadays, virtually any stock discs/pads are more than capable of locking the wheel, which means that they are not the "bottleneck", when it comes to vehicle stopping power. So how those dics/pad reviewers get those "better" results? I don't get it. And today I find this vid :) Thanks! I feel a better about myself now :) Shame on those biased reviewers! :)
I agree on the tires and pads being the most important ! .. and I also believe that slotted and drilled are quite reliable and dont offer too much worry about failure because every motorcycle I have bought came from the factory with drilled (Honda) or dual slotted discs (Yamaha) and they would not put them if they had fracture/failure issues. I also have not had issues with fast brake pad wear on eiter.. so I partly agree with you. Nice vid though, you are a good speaker.
You can't exactly compare motorcycle and car disks to be fair. Slotted and drilled factory rotors that are standard on some high end sports cars have been engineered to have high strength and resistance to cracking. Whereas aftermarket slotted and drilled rotors that you can buy for regular passenger cars are not always great quality and could be more prone to cracking than solid discs.
@@vxsr33 Fair enough. Quality varies for sure. So if one were to buy a brand with known good reputation it should be decent. And often original equipment parts are manufactured by third parties anyway so I would think this logic would be fine. Never had any issues at all with the ones I put on the 11' Pathfinder, they were still on it when i sold the vehicle. The pads were not great for bite, but thats an easy swap. I do regret using the companies' pads. Should have only purchased the rotors. I love that they did not rust.
I used to use slotted or drilled rotors but now getting a little bit older I just get the plane rotors with akebono pads.. lol. Cool video i learned & that's what it's about 👍👍🇺🇸
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
Not a mention about water dispersal! I had a Honda 750 4 with Stainless Discs ( Rotors) absolutely F useless in the wet (changed them to drilled cast iron with the then in their infancy EBC sintered pads) like driving on a different planet...maybe we are blessed with a lot of rain in England but when you had to tweak the brakes every few seconds to keep the brakes hot and clear of water otherwise you put the front brake on and three or four white knuckle seconds later they would start gripping! Moto Guzzi had a brilliant anti lock brembo system with cast Iron drilled and slotted brake discs Twin ones at the front and single at the rear all drilled and slotted...absolutely first class.
Great information -- having experienced brake fade when I was going way too hot under stress driving the cost is a good trade... brake pads are cheap where smashing your car because you failed to stop soon enough ... my ABS hardly trips on grippy surfaces with normal rotors as this is because my brake rotors are getting too hot... the only thing I not liking about the upgrade is the up front cost but if I keep up on my brake inspections and swap pads before they get burned up I'll easily get a fair amount of time on what I bought ... these are my cars 200k birthday present =)
Thanks for clear explanation about the discs and thank you for clear explanation that we don't need expensive disc all We Need Is Good brakes and tyres
Not bad. I would've liked to see some actual rotors instead of drawings on a white board. Car guys like to see car parts. : ) You were very knowledgeable for most of our braking concerns. I believe you left out my set of rotors and pads. Not all braking has to do with stopping from a high rate of speed or racing. I have the PowerStop z36 brake kit for my 2010 Xterra. Drilled and slotted. They are rated the best according to my research. This is a towing package as opposed to the z23 brake kit. I drive the Rocky Mountains and also go 4wheeling. My brakes are perfect for coming down the mountain at 70 mph, holding still on a steep rocky road or cleaning the dust while braking off road. Also if you replace the rotors, replace the calipers. I really like your point on tires. Get good tires. Hope you don't mind my feedback. I'm an educator. Keep up the good work! Very informative!!
Its also good to remember any texture on the rotor such a slots and drills or dimples can cause more pad vibration this can lead to brake squeak or noisier braking overall. The quietest rotors are plan good quality. Top shelf with a decent set of pads. Also remember dust means they are working some of the pads with less dust also preform worse.
ive found basic ceramic pads dont work well cold and seem to slide (or fad) . dont like them and used organic pads untill recently trying ceramic/carbon and liking them.
To touch on something not explained: brake cooling. Slotted rotors do have a better brake cooling effect over plain rotors, but it does go hand in hand with thermal cracking and warping as explained. A slotted rotor will heat up faster which can cause warping and potentially cracking (cracking is rare and is usually caused but super hot metal being cooled very quickly causing the grains in the metal to contracted very quickly forming anywhere from a small microscopic crack to a larger crack, usually they’re hairline cracks) but the slots in the rotors circulate air cooling it more efficiently. To put in a visual explanation, say you heat two pieces of the same metal, one is say 1/4 inch thick and another is 1/8 inch thick and we put a fan on both pieces for cooling. The 1/8 inch thick will cool much fast because there is less mass. Now let’s take that same experiment and carve some grooves or slots into the 1/4 metal about 1/8 deep. The sections where the grooves are cut will cool faster and the cooling effect will start to spread throughout the whole piece. It will not cool as fast as the previous 1/8 inch thick metal but it will cool faster than the 1/4 inch thick piece. What basically is happening is you’re reducing the mass of a rotor and adding the variable of circulation into the mix so the rotor is sort of acting as it’s own cooling fan. Where it gets interesting is, yes a slotted rotor will heat up faster but it will also cool faster, where as a plain rotor will cool but retain more heat for long which will cause warping to occur quicker. Now this is based off Of very hard braking and constant use of brakes such as track use. In conclusion, if you have a daily driver then regular plain Jane brake rotors will suit you just fine, but if you do a lot of racing and driving on tracks, than a slotted rotor will be better suited for your vehicle. Side note: to crack any metal, even a brake rotor, you will have to heat it to the point it is almost red or is red and throw water or a cooling agent on it to cool it very quickly to cause a crack. If a crack if formed by regular driving then that rotor was not manufactured properly (a dud) or they are usually very cheap or very old rotors. That’s not to say it doesn’t happen, but a properly manufactured rotor should not crack under normal circumstances, but there are always outliers.
i just changed out drilled and slotted for just slotted. I had the D and S rotors for 4 years. After inspecting them after I removed them, there was all kinds of fractures on the rotors around the drilled areas. Never going back to drilled.
StopTech® drilled and slotted rotors & PFC® carbon metalic brake pads on my Ej8... All together with the energy suspension bushings, high performance upgrades on the rear suspension including aluminum LCA's, brace support and 24mm rear sway bar. And mentioning my Hankook tires ventus v2 concept2 205 45 r17 front and 215 45 r17 rear.. Amazing...
I had a 2003 Honda Accord as a daily driver. There is a down hill grade that is notorious for people getting into rear end collisions on the way to work. There were times I wondered if I was going to stop in time. I decided to switch to slotted and cross drilled rotors. There was a noticeable difference in increased stopping power and there were a couple of instances I am sure I would have run into the car ahead had it not been for the new brakes. BTW, the OEM rotors were replaced twice because of warping. The new rotors never had a warping problem after 50,000 miles.
For 2019 ford went to a flat rotors for the GT350 as they found that the drilled rotors did nothing for the car but eat the pads. The GT500 released with flat rotors Shortly after.
I think his video would have been more complete if he had included the cryno treated (liquid nitrogen treated) rotors. They are available in basically all the variations of rotors mentioned. The greatest benefit of this treatment is the rotors are more durable and resistance to overheating.
Thanks! Good to know. I purchased my truck with the hybrid rotors and only got about 30,000 out of the pads and they are looking rough. I also drive it in the winter and these aren’t very good because salt can build up in the holes and wear them out faster. Looks like I’ll be going back to OEM
Thanks for confirming what I thought 💭 I already knew! After all......most of the stuff that looks good doesn’t always work the best. My G-pa used to tell me that factory 🏭 replacement parts are always best because they put the vehicles through all those tests before they actually start selling the vehicles.
@Mazuraski Gay Your Grandpa and my Dad must've talked at some point because he used to tell me the same thing... "Son, don't you think car manufacturers put their vehicles through rigorous tests and use the appropriate parts for driving under normal conditions?" "Well, ya Dad, but I wanna fly farther and faster... I have the need for speed, Dad! I gots to go!!" "Then buy a damn airplane, Son." So when I was 28yo I did. ✈ But not before I got a ticket for doing 123mph in a 35 zone 🚔 My Dad was PISSED! I was under 18yo back then so he had to go to court with me, the judge yanked my license for a year. Bastard... ;) Ha! LOL! I had it suspended again for a year before I was 21! That was a long time ago. These days I'm bored at 160mph.... up in the air, not on the ground! Nowadays I usually keep it under 50mph in a residential zone... 🤫
Mike it sounds as if you’re right!! Ahh yes....The need for speed? I still have it. Not in my truck but on my motorcycle 🏍‼️it gets me the adrenaline rush the I desperately crave!!
Mike it’s weird that my crave for speed didn’t come until I was about 25 when I rode a friend of mine motorcycle 🏍. And I’ve been hooked ever since. Thank goodness 😅 for me I’ve never had any speeding tickets 🎫.......knock on wood!! If that would have been me my dad would still be trying to yank his leg 🦵🏽 out of my rear end!! 😂😂‼️‼️
@@Mazy01152004 You've never had a speeding ticket?? What do you do, walk everywhere or do you take the bus? LOL! OK, time for me to brag like an idiot... I've had more speeding tickets than the average cop writes in his lifetime! "Exhibition of speed", a couple "reckless driving", "too fast for road conditions", and then my personal favorite act of stupidity... when I was confronted inside a McDonalds by a cop who said they had a report of a car and driver fitting my description going over 100mph, my reply was, "Shiiitt, more like 125!" That little incident cost me $13K in attorney fees, but that's another story. My mouth has gotten me in more trouble, more times than I can count starting in grade school. I was the kid that had my desk in the front of the classroom facing the corner. That's no lie! ;) The amazing part was with all the tickets I've had I somehow managed to maintain a driver's license except for those two suspensions. Good thing because I drove a semi truck for over 20 years. I had one log book violation and one overweight ticket the whole time. In other words, I behaved. I still do, in fact, it only took me 40+ years to start driving like a sane individual. I was in the USMC and had a Staff Sergeant that had a '78 or '79 Z28. He always wanted to race me for pink slips because I'd talk shit about his car. At the time, I had dumped all my money in paint and wheels, he dumped his money under the hood and I knew it. So late one night we did race, up I-5 north of San Diego, but NOT for pinks. We were running both shoulders and at 120mph he left me in the dust. I remember my steering wheel wasn't too responsive at that speed. Looking back, it's just amazing I never got into an accident and killed someone. I think of all the money I've given the State of CA in fines I paid and realize I could've bought another house! Well, not really. I left that State 10 years ago and now I wonder why I waited so long to move out. Listen, I don't want to sound like a parent to you, but for God's sake, don't go flying down the road on one of them rice rockets! Keep your truck, ditch the bike. I've known several people over the years that have had some serious mishaps on a bike. My brother was on a Goldwing and stopped at a red light when a car came up behind him and never touched the brakes. He became Superman for a moment, but upon contacting the road he became a sack of asphalt coated broken bones. I'm sure you're aware of all the horror stories. On TH-cam I'm just amazed by the guys that can start a wheelie at 60+ and just keep going! They've got balls, big ones... But brains, small ones! I grew up riding dirt bikes, still do in fact, just not as fast as I used to be. Hmm, maybe the bikes need a tune up... ya, that's it! I have an XR400 (tank) and a YZ250. I want a KX450F but 10K is too much. The only time in my life I've road a street bike was when I was about 23yo, high on pot for the very first time in my life, shorts, no shirt wearing flip flops with a chick on the back. That was before any helmet law. Didn't even have a motorcycle license either... "Rules were meant to broken" WAS my motto. It was a Honda CB 350? She wanted to go "do it" on the bike, but I wasn't sure how that was gonna work without a pillow and blanket (DUH!) She was hot, but I was more excited about going fast on someone else's bike! I'm not normal... Look up "dummy" in the dictionary... you'll find me! It was fun to be young, dumb and full of cum. These days I'll be cruising the Senior Center parking lot in 4 months looking for hot chicks, only I was told they're called "grandma's" now. Whatever. 🤤 Maybe I'll go inside and sign up for bingo and find me a high roller!! 🤑 The need for speed is an awesome feeling, the adrenaline rush, not the drug of course. If you have 7 minutes, check out my TH-cam video. This is a plane my dad left me when he passed away. I hadn't flown anything this small, light and slow. Red line was 90mph. It's experimental and falls under the Light Sport Aircraft category. Much easier and cheaper to obtain a license for than for a General Aviation plane. My kids were minors and on the ground alone so I didn't go anywhere. I just had to check it out before I sold it. Thinking about buying one within a year, the flying bug has gotten to me again. It's titled "Kolb at the Dry Lake" or my channel is called "Luv2fu4ever69". Try this link. th-cam.com/video/V2EY0ww71xo/w-d-xo.html You want an adrenaline rush? Get up in the air! Then try it upside down... ;) I gotta shut up and get going to work before I have to fire myself!!
Thank you, very genuinely explained. No marketing BS. My question still stays unanswered though. If I were to upgrade my OEM rotors just because they are undersized, so ends up warping with heat during downhill breaking. Very Common problem in Honda Odyssey’s. Should we stick with the plain rotors to avoid stress & cracking due to heat or go with drilled & slotted ones for better heat dissipation but prone to fracture under higher temperatures? Thanks in advance!
Upgrade your pads. If Brembo make their "Xtra" pads for your model, I would recommend them. Otherwise, Ferodo DS Performance pads. You could also consider Mintex M1144. All three are street legal. The "warping" you are experiencing is actually the oem pads making uneven deposits on the rotors. Leading to vibration that feels like warped discs. Fit new rotors when you upgrade the pads. Plain surface rotors will be fine and last longer...and be cheaper to buy. Focus your hard earned money on the pads. (Speaking from 22 years, 600,000 road miles and loads of trackday experience.)
Drilled and slotted discs are more prone to cracking due to thermal shock IMHO, ie if you drive through a big puddle when your brake discs are very hot and get cooled very fast, If you don't use the vehicle much and get glazing on discs and pads, the slotted can make the discs land pads ast longer I also do believe
First thing I did on my '18 Equinox awd was install Nitto NT421Q's but the stock pads still don't have enough friction so I'm installing Hawk HPS 5.0 up front and EBC Yellowstuff in the rear. I'd rather out brake an accident than participate in it and I came up short two weeks ago in stock form hence the changes. I hope to have all of my parts in this week.
Conclusion from this video: Aside from tires and brake pads, according to the rotor comparisons, the best design to help braking performance is the J-slotted rotor, "that gives you lot more pad bite." 7:33
The real determining factor is the driver. Most drivers break too late and not hard enough. That’s why a more aggressive initial bite can make stopping distance shorter. Hawk pads and slotted rotors 👍🏼
Yeah, me too. Just purchased a set of "extreme duty" hybrid rotors. Putting them on next weekend. If the rotors last for at least 2 sets of pads, then I'll be going back to plain faced rotors
Whatever you say. I will hold my ground on drilled or slotted break rotors. The best brands in my opinion is ATE, zimmerman and brembo. These once also have a coating of paint/metarial so it wont rust. Also one note: plan faced rotors WILL fade on track days after a few cornors or a long big downhill breaking on a hot summer day.
wheels locking is the final word on stopping . wheels locking up really before tires would normally skid is also the issue and of course fading with heat . im running drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic/ carbon pads . never been happier , just have to see about the long run.
Good answer....!! Tyres very important along with shockies I get a bit tired of hearing about complaints of pads wearing to quickly at the end of the day you’ve got a 2 tonne machine with a spinning disk and a pad is gonna squeeze the disk to stop the vehicle something has to wear it might as well be the pads don’t worry about it it’s a consumable....!!!
I was told the holes also keep water from accumulating on the surface when driving through puddles of water 💧 as far as looks go cross Drilled and Slotted look the best 👌🏻 for me! I don't usually drive to work on a track but can go through puddles if water beating lil old ladies or guys that drive like them on daily streets looking way cooler than a mini van😛
Bottom line: dots and slots add nothing but disc porn. They do nothing to improve braking performance. An ex colleague did his PhD on this and it's been proved by testing by a UK sports car manufacturer.
how did you just talk for 10 minutes without having to do much editiing! You're a great speaker!!! Thanks for the information!
Wow, he actually really knows what he's talking about & explained it very well
He talked very well, could be a very good teacher or reporter.
He "spoke" very well.
Agreed, he spoke well
8:45 the answer
XN FR you the fucking man
MVP
My hero
Ty
GOAT
Remember -- The BRAKES stop the WHEELS -- but the TIRES stop the VEHICLE !!
a belt holds up the pants, but the belt loop holds up the belt.
And remember it's an engine (internal combustion engine)...."motor" is reserved for electric motors.
You're right
I've never thought about it that way. Nice!
people also seem to forget that smaller rotors with less pistons and flat rotors can most often stop a wheel just as fast as a 10000 dollar setup, they both can lock the wheel. Big expensive brakes are just beneficial to do full blown stops over and over and not fade.
That was packed full of info we could use. Thanks, I'm sticking with plain rotors and hi quality ceramic pads.
Thorough yet concise information. This was a great primer to see before I called around to get pricing on new rotors for my car. Thank you!!!
Good video. Best I’ve seen on the subject. Important point not discussed is that the cleaning effect provided by slots allows a more aggressive pad not used with street rotors due to grooving/off gassing-fade. Slotted rotors off gas fine and keep a smooth surface with aggressive metallics. Cryogenic treatment will also extend rotor life with aggressive pads.
Well said! Totally agree
You get the lowest temp on a solid rotor because it works like a heat sink, but on the track at high speeds and heavy braking slotted is best because it allows the escape of gases and dust. This will give you more brake pad surface to make contacts which will make the car stop faster. Now on a everyday driver you go with either solid or for those that like to push it on the highway like I do drilled & slotted.
Who cares
@@mikezappulla4092 obviously you because you responded. And, a lot of people, 😳🤔😂
@@mikezappulla4092 🤣🤣
@@mikezappulla4092everyone who watched this video presumably
@@mikezappulla4092 i do, he made a good comment unlike someone else...
I've just bought myself a full set of EBC drilled and slotted rotors and a set of EBC "Yellow stuff" pads for my Mazda CX-5. I reckon they have improved the stopping distance massively. I tow a 2 tonn caravan and can definitely tell the difference from the original OEM to EBC. Great video by the way! 👍🏻 😎🇬🇧
You tow a 2 ton caravan with a cx5? Aren't those only rated for 1 ton? It must be extremely slow
@@lexusgs4604 CX5 owner here. Outside the US where tongue standards are different these are rated for two tons. And with the turbo there’s 250hp and 320lb/ft torque from 1500-4000rpm…..so power wise, it’s better than many compact trucks
EBC sucks… we had slotted rotors and redstuff pads on a civic type r fk2. we were only driving „sporty“ on public roads (serpentines), didnt event brake too much. they went bad (overheated?) extremely quick, we were lucky to not have crashed. suddenly there was no more stopping power. the rotors had a blue colour to them when we checked them out. i also had the same ones on my 2016 WRX STI, even the stock rotors & pads had more grip… also the rotors deformed, didnt even do any sporty driving. if i brake at above 100km/h, the steering wheel is shaking.
we have dba rotors & pads now, so far no issues & good performance
@@DerRusherI had good experience with EBC stuff . Just the Normal black stuff with their solid rotors. Direct OEM replacement. For street use (a bit sportier sometimes) There was an easily noticable difference compared to the OEM on my civic (8th gen. non-typeR) and I also replaced the OEM pads on my Mazda MX5 ND2 (with only 10k km) with Black stuff. And there IS a difference in the case of the MX5 too. Brake feels better and biting point much better now (there is actually one now) in my opinion. Maybe their other more expensive stuff doesn't worth the price, but I felt an immediate difference with their BlackStuff OEM replacement. I'm really glad I chenged them.
BTW I'm not saying their black stuff or yellow stuff or whaterver are great products, maybe just on my 2 cars the OEM brake pads were really bad. On my 10th gen civc sport+ EU the OEM brakes are great for every day sportier use so there I will just continue to use the OEM ones.
Very well spoken and informative. Anyone could watch the video and be knowledgeable enough to make an informed decision.
Awesome video my friend, very informative, I am 59 years old years ago I always worked on my owned vehicles, I started my own business in 1980 painting decorating and maintenance services, I was blessed with making a decent wage so until I retired 3 years ago I started working on my vehicles again to save money on a budget now going to do a full brake job on my wife's minivan and was indecisive on which rotor and pads to use wanted the best I asked a couple of different mechanics and also called a few parts stores and still didn't know what the best way to go, thanks to you I was able to make the best decision on what braking system thank you again looking forward to other videos that you post you get an A-Plus my friend thank you again Marky Mark
Sticking with OEM grade is probably best way to go for performance and cost.
What does your age and life decisions have to do with this? I’m sure everyone on TH-cam is glad your retired and built your own business. Your a smart man..
I'm glad I watched this. Need to replace my rotors, and almost spent twice as much in a drill slotted set... Thank you
Thanks for breaking it down so easy and informative, no pun intended
Great video. The material was well presented. I learned something and that's always a good thing. Thank you.
So basically for an everyday driver like myself, I’m sticking to my basic pads and rotors. No need for the fancy drilled and slotted stuff on my 2018 Nissan Murano. Just slap some good quality tires on there, with dependable, plain, quality, brakes and rotors. Thank you good sir.
Haha yeah same conclusion. Great Video!
Same same. I've just bought Dba standard and bendix 4x4
For an everyday driver plus someone who occasionally tows a boat like myself, I'm upgrading to better & wider pads on my '16 F150. Just keep tires rotated & slap new ones on when needed. Sounds like drilled a/o slotted discs don't improve functionality enough to justify the extra cost.
Make sure you spray paint the calipers red. Although not mentioned in the video, the red color increases stopping power by 15%
@@caelenow2829 yeah, even with your knackered seals and metal to metal contact, total 15% increase in performance allows you full use of your pads instead of wasting that last 1mm. 🤣 I've seen bright yellow ones, I've heard these are good for a whole 100% increase, so good you can stop without discs or pads.
this helped me tremendously in deciding. Thanks
Great video! You answered all the questions that I had and have saved me money and possibly headaches. Thanks so much.
Best information I've found on this topic. I'm in the market for new brakes for my high performance street car. Thinking I might go with blank rotors with sport pads and some stainless brake lines now. Can't justify the excessive wear with the slotted rotors. The car won't be seeing any track use. Thanks for the video!
Exactly what i'm thinking too. Any updates after 3 years? lol
Wish i had watched this video before spending more on drilled rotors for no reason. Thank you for the info. Very well explained video
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
I used slotted rotors once and never again. They wore down the pads heaps quicker and you could feel the pad going over the slots thru the slightly pulsing brake pedal.
That's a good thing, means it's doing its job properly. Just use better pads with the slotted rotas to reduce the pad wear.
What brand did you use? a reputable known brand or amazon specials?
@@toadamine if you want good pads you might wanna look at something like EBC Red or yellow stuff pads
I want to chance my brakes today and I want to inform me befor I buy somethings and you explain etremly good ! Nice video man
Very in depth video. Umfortunately there is also no visible test comparisons that compare one to the next and which is best overall.
Mind Blown - I need to rethink my life now !!!
You remind me of EE. good work
What a dumb ass
@@mikecastleberry9671 What a dumb remark.
haha yup.. nerdy guy explaining i see it.
Why would you say that's a dumb comment? This is exactly how EE started his channel and there is totally similarities. You have to start somewhere
I've learned this when I started tracks days 15 years ago and save a lot because of this. Drilled is for looks and less reliable. If you are daily driving only in that car - get plain. If you are autocrossing or road coursing get slotted, good high temp capable pads and motul to prevent boiling.
Rogan how about make the slots on a plain one, obviously with an expert on it vs buy a slotted one ?
Do you think ppl are buying them for the science. Its all aesthetics for 99.9% of population.
Excellent i learned a lot with this video i was about to order drilled rotor for my land rover but not anymore thank you.
loved it so much useful info. seems like everyone is saying druilled ones brake down quick
Bro! U made me take this ride and didn't even give us an answer? 😭😭😭😭 WHICH ROTORS?... And then a thumbs up I'll give lol
It's basically you get what you want or need.there is no answer
Thank you for explaining that really well👏🏽 I am sharing your video with my mates 😎
Great video. You forgot the Fred Flintstones breaking application.
EE whiteboard and a great history lesson. Enjoyed very much.
You've just earned yourself a subscriber. Thank you.
Engineering Explained imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
Is EE the only one allowed to preach in front of a white board?
No, just saying it’s a good method and well done.
I admire what he has done with his video but it sadly does not leave a lot of room for originality now that he has covered the majority of engineering topics related to cars. 🤷♂️
@@thecarizon504 I think your video was more concise and focused. Good job!
The Carizon
At least he can spell properly.
Really nice video, wish I had saw before I purchased slotted for my daily driver pickup.
The benefit of slotted it that it keeps your pad surface perfectly smooth/level which in turn keeps the rotors from getting any inconsistencies so you won't end up with that vibration or wobble that can typically happen when solid rotors heat up or wear over time. It keeps everything in fuller contact. You won't regret your choice.
Glad I subscribed to this channel so early. I think this channel is gonna take off. Great video.
Great video answered all my questions in one shot
thank you very much, 10 mins spend to consume gold like knowledge!
Something that is pretty interesting is that the Porsche brake rotors that have a drilled appearance are actually cast that way from the factory. They're not actually drilled. This makes them stronger than the rotors that have been drilled. It's still just an appearance thing, though.
I checked this out on my nephew's old '05 Cayenne. Interesting idea.
Thanks for the education, saved me from future rotor trouble
I have always thought that drilled rotors provide better braking and hence a shorter braking distance. Nice to know now that they offer no braking benefit other than look. I also liked when he stated that slots on a rotor keep brake pads clean by offering scraping edges to remove dust and fades off the pads. I will consider slotted rotors for my vehicle from now on, thanks to this video.
Thank you so much very informative and very intelligent video I appreciate you taking the time out very important info thank you
Heh. I was just talking with my girlfriend yesterday, that I must be dumb, as I don't get, how "better" brakes contribute to shorter stoping distance in a SINGLE run, as presented in many brake disc/pads reviews. Nowadays, virtually any stock discs/pads are more than capable of locking the wheel, which means that they are not the "bottleneck", when it comes to vehicle stopping power. So how those dics/pad reviewers get those "better" results? I don't get it.
And today I find this vid :)
Thanks! I feel a better about myself now :) Shame on those biased reviewers! :)
Very good information and make sense too.
I agree on the tires and pads being the most important ! .. and I also believe that slotted and drilled are quite reliable and dont offer too much worry about failure because every motorcycle I have bought came from the factory with drilled (Honda) or dual slotted discs (Yamaha) and they would not put them if they had fracture/failure issues. I also have not had issues with fast brake pad wear on eiter.. so I partly agree with you. Nice vid though, you are a good speaker.
Well said!
You can't exactly compare motorcycle and car disks to be fair.
Slotted and drilled factory rotors that are standard on some high end sports cars have been engineered to have high strength and resistance to cracking. Whereas aftermarket slotted and drilled rotors that you can buy for regular passenger cars are not always great quality and could be more prone to cracking than solid discs.
@@vxsr33 Fair enough. Quality varies for sure. So if one were to buy a brand with known good reputation it should be decent. And often original equipment parts are manufactured by third parties anyway so I would think this logic would be fine. Never had any issues at all with the ones I put on the 11' Pathfinder, they were still on it when i sold the vehicle. The pads were not great for bite, but thats an easy swap. I do regret using the companies' pads. Should have only purchased the rotors. I love that they did not rust.
Awesome tutorial, short and concise, all aspects explained well.
Very informative. Thank you. I felt like I was back in college in a 101 brake class. Thats not a dig that a big complement. Thank you again.
You need a refund from your college.
It's COMPLIMENT,...
Not Complement.
I just finished the video... He is right on the money! Nice job!!
Shock absorbers are also often overlooked in their role due to resistance to anti dive etc
I used to use slotted or drilled rotors but now getting a little bit older I just get the plane rotors with akebono pads.. lol. Cool video i learned & that's what it's about 👍👍🇺🇸
I have seen some good rotors at geobrakes.com not sure what kind of you want but they have got some good selection of heavy duty drilled and slotted ones
@@limodxb9177 thank you, I'll look into their stock👍👍
Not a mention about water dispersal! I had a Honda 750 4 with Stainless Discs ( Rotors) absolutely F useless in the wet (changed them to drilled cast iron with the then in their infancy EBC sintered pads) like driving on a different planet...maybe we are blessed with a lot of rain in England but when you had to tweak the brakes every few seconds to keep the brakes hot and clear of water otherwise you put the front brake on and three or four white knuckle seconds later they would start gripping! Moto Guzzi had a brilliant anti lock brembo system with cast Iron drilled and slotted brake discs Twin ones at the front and single at the rear all drilled and slotted...absolutely first class.
Damn dude this was so helpful. You would not believe how much cash you saved me.
Thanks for the clear explanation!
Great information -- having experienced brake fade when I was going way too hot under stress driving the cost is a good trade... brake pads are cheap where smashing your car because you failed to stop soon enough ... my ABS hardly trips on grippy surfaces with normal rotors as this is because my brake rotors are getting too hot... the only thing I not liking about the upgrade is the up front cost but if I keep up on my brake inspections and swap pads before they get burned up I'll easily get a fair amount of time on what I bought ... these are my cars 200k birthday present =)
Thanks for clear explanation about the discs and thank you for clear explanation that we don't need expensive disc all We Need Is Good brakes and tyres
Not bad. I would've liked to see some actual rotors instead of drawings on a white board. Car guys like to see car parts. : ) You were very knowledgeable for most of our braking concerns. I believe you left out my set of rotors and pads. Not all braking has to do with stopping from a high rate of speed or racing. I have the PowerStop z36 brake kit for my 2010 Xterra. Drilled and slotted. They are rated the best according to my research. This is a towing package as opposed to the z23 brake kit. I drive the Rocky Mountains and also go 4wheeling. My brakes are perfect for coming down the mountain at 70 mph, holding still on a steep rocky road or cleaning the dust while braking off road. Also if you replace the rotors, replace the calipers. I really like your point on tires. Get good tires. Hope you don't mind my feedback. I'm an educator. Keep up the good work! Very informative!!
Thanks for the objective and informative review!
that answer is great. amazing work
Wow. Superb video. U spoke truth. Keep them coming
Its also good to remember any texture on the rotor such a slots and drills or dimples can cause more pad vibration this can lead to brake squeak or noisier braking overall. The quietest rotors are plan good quality. Top shelf with a decent set of pads. Also remember dust means they are working some of the pads with less dust also preform worse.
ive found basic ceramic pads dont work well cold and seem to slide (or fad) . dont like them and used organic pads untill recently trying ceramic/carbon and liking them.
To touch on something not explained: brake cooling.
Slotted rotors do have a better brake cooling effect over plain rotors, but it does go hand in hand with thermal cracking and warping as explained.
A slotted rotor will heat up faster which can cause warping and potentially cracking (cracking is rare and is usually caused but super hot metal being cooled very quickly causing the grains in the metal to contracted very quickly forming anywhere from a small microscopic crack to a larger crack, usually they’re hairline cracks) but the slots in the rotors circulate air cooling it more efficiently.
To put in a visual explanation, say you heat two pieces of the same metal, one is say 1/4 inch thick and another is 1/8 inch thick and we put a fan on both pieces for cooling. The 1/8 inch thick will cool much fast because there is less mass. Now let’s take that same experiment and carve some grooves or slots into the 1/4 metal about 1/8 deep. The sections where the grooves are cut will cool faster and the cooling effect will start to spread throughout the whole piece. It will not cool as fast as the previous 1/8 inch thick metal but it will cool faster than the 1/4 inch thick piece.
What basically is happening is you’re reducing the mass of a rotor and adding the variable of circulation into the mix so the rotor is sort of acting as it’s own cooling fan.
Where it gets interesting is, yes a slotted rotor will heat up faster but it will also cool faster, where as a plain rotor will cool but retain more heat for long which will cause warping to occur quicker.
Now this is based off Of very hard braking and constant use of brakes such as track use.
In conclusion, if you have a daily driver then regular plain Jane brake rotors will suit you just fine, but if you do a lot of racing and driving on tracks, than a slotted rotor will be better suited for your vehicle.
Side note: to crack any metal, even a brake rotor, you will have to heat it to the point it is almost red or is red and throw water or a cooling agent on it to cool it very quickly to cause a crack. If a crack if formed by regular driving then that rotor was not manufactured properly (a dud) or they are usually very cheap or very old rotors. That’s not to say it doesn’t happen, but a properly manufactured rotor should not crack under normal circumstances, but there are always outliers.
i just changed out drilled and slotted for just slotted. I had the D and S rotors for 4 years. After inspecting them after I removed them, there was all kinds of fractures on the rotors around the drilled areas. Never going back to drilled.
Drilled rotors = heat dissipation
Slotted rotors= cleaner surfaces of water dust or a mix of both.
Hybrid = a mix of both
StopTech® drilled and slotted rotors & PFC® carbon metalic brake pads on my Ej8...
All together with the energy suspension bushings, high performance upgrades on the rear suspension including aluminum LCA's, brace support and 24mm rear sway bar.
And mentioning my Hankook tires ventus v2 concept2 205 45 r17 front and 215 45 r17 rear..
Amazing...
What about drilled and slotted brake drums? 😏
Solid to the point and well constructed video.
Excellent Video,, very very informative
This dudes solid. I'm thinking maintain with oem parts and make sure I have michelins.
Well explained ! U earned a Sub.
Great explanation, basically you nailed it!
Thanks.
I had a 2003 Honda Accord as a daily driver. There is a down hill grade that is notorious for people getting into rear end collisions on the way to work. There were times I wondered if I was going to stop in time. I decided to switch to slotted and cross drilled rotors. There was a noticeable difference in increased stopping power and there were a couple of instances I am sure I would have run into the car ahead had it not been for the new brakes. BTW, the OEM rotors were replaced twice because of warping. The new rotors never had a warping problem after 50,000 miles.
Frank Verdin just drive a manual and engine brake lol
For 2019 ford went to a flat rotors for the GT350 as they found that the drilled rotors did nothing for the car but eat the pads. The GT500 released with flat rotors Shortly after.
The most important factor for rotors is corrosion. Coating the non-braking surfaces helps prevent corrosion of rotors.
I think his video would have been more complete if he had included the cryno treated (liquid nitrogen treated) rotors. They are available in basically all the variations of rotors mentioned. The greatest benefit of this treatment is the rotors are more durable and resistance to overheating.
Well put mate 👌👍
Thanks! Good to know. I purchased my truck with the hybrid rotors and only got about 30,000 out of the pads and they are looking rough. I also drive it in the winter and these aren’t very good because salt can build up in the holes and wear them out faster. Looks like I’ll be going back to OEM
For trucks brakes you can try geobrakes.com they sell all oem brakes
@@limodxb9177no they dont...no x7 parts
Thanks for this great, informative video. 👍
Thanks for confirming what I thought 💭 I already knew! After all......most of the stuff that looks good doesn’t always work the best. My G-pa used to tell me that factory 🏭 replacement parts are always best because they put the vehicles through all those tests before they actually start selling the vehicles.
@Mazuraski Gay
Your Grandpa and my Dad must've talked at some point because he used to tell me the same thing...
"Son, don't you think car manufacturers put their vehicles through rigorous tests and use the appropriate parts for driving under normal conditions?"
"Well, ya Dad, but I wanna fly farther and faster... I have the need for speed, Dad! I gots to go!!"
"Then buy a damn airplane, Son."
So when I was 28yo I did. ✈ But not before I got a ticket for doing 123mph in a 35 zone 🚔 My Dad was PISSED! I was under 18yo back then so he had to go to court with me, the judge yanked my license for a year. Bastard... ;) Ha! LOL! I had it suspended again for a year before I was 21! That was a long time ago.
These days I'm bored at 160mph.... up in the air, not on the ground! Nowadays I usually keep it under 50mph in a residential zone... 🤫
Mike it sounds as if you’re right!! Ahh yes....The need for speed? I still have it. Not in my truck but on my motorcycle 🏍‼️it gets me the adrenaline rush the I desperately crave!!
Mike it’s weird that my crave for speed didn’t come until I was about 25 when I rode a friend of mine motorcycle 🏍. And I’ve been hooked ever since. Thank goodness 😅 for me I’ve never had any speeding tickets 🎫.......knock on wood!! If that would have been me my dad would still be trying to yank his leg 🦵🏽 out of my rear end!! 😂😂‼️‼️
@@Mazy01152004
You've never had a speeding ticket?? What do you do, walk everywhere or do you take the bus? LOL!
OK, time for me to brag like an idiot... I've had more speeding tickets than the average cop writes in his lifetime! "Exhibition of speed", a couple "reckless driving", "too fast for road conditions", and then my personal favorite act of stupidity... when I was confronted inside a McDonalds by a cop who said they had a report of a car and driver fitting my description going over 100mph, my reply was, "Shiiitt, more like 125!" That little incident cost me $13K in attorney fees, but that's another story.
My mouth has gotten me in more trouble, more times than I can count starting in grade school. I was the kid that had my desk in the front of the classroom facing the corner. That's no lie! ;) The amazing part was with all the tickets I've had I somehow managed to maintain a driver's license except for those two suspensions. Good thing because I drove a semi truck for over 20 years. I had one log book violation and one overweight ticket the whole time. In other words, I behaved. I still do, in fact, it only took me 40+ years to start driving like a sane individual.
I was in the USMC and had a Staff Sergeant that had a '78 or '79 Z28. He always wanted to race me for pink slips because I'd talk shit about his car. At the time, I had dumped all my money in paint and wheels, he dumped his money under the hood and I knew it. So late one night we did race, up I-5 north of San Diego, but NOT for pinks. We were running both shoulders and at 120mph he left me in the dust. I remember my steering wheel wasn't too responsive at that speed. Looking back, it's just amazing I never got into an accident and killed someone. I think of all the money I've given the State of CA in fines I paid and realize I could've bought another house! Well, not really. I left that State 10 years ago and now I wonder why I waited so long to move out.
Listen, I don't want to sound like a parent to you, but for God's sake, don't go flying down the road on one of them rice rockets! Keep your truck, ditch the bike. I've known several people over the years that have had some serious mishaps on a bike. My brother was on a Goldwing and stopped at a red light when a car came up behind him and never touched the brakes. He became Superman for a moment, but upon contacting the road he became a sack of asphalt coated broken bones. I'm sure you're aware of all the horror stories. On TH-cam I'm just amazed by the guys that can start a wheelie at 60+ and just keep going! They've got balls, big ones... But brains, small ones! I grew up riding dirt bikes, still do in fact, just not as fast as I used to be. Hmm, maybe the bikes need a tune up... ya, that's it! I have an XR400 (tank) and a YZ250. I want a KX450F but 10K is too much. The only time in my life I've road a street bike was when I was about 23yo, high on pot for the very first time in my life, shorts, no shirt wearing flip flops with a chick on the back. That was before any helmet law. Didn't even have a motorcycle license either... "Rules were meant to broken" WAS my motto. It was a Honda CB 350? She wanted to go "do it" on the bike, but I wasn't sure how that was gonna work without a pillow and blanket (DUH!) She was hot, but I was more excited about going fast on someone else's bike! I'm not normal...
Look up "dummy" in the dictionary... you'll find me! It was fun to be young, dumb and full of cum. These days I'll be cruising the Senior Center parking lot in 4 months looking for hot chicks, only I was told they're called "grandma's" now. Whatever. 🤤 Maybe I'll go inside and sign up for bingo and find me a high roller!! 🤑
The need for speed is an awesome feeling, the adrenaline rush, not the drug of course. If you have 7 minutes, check out my TH-cam video. This is a plane my dad left me when he passed away. I hadn't flown anything this small, light and slow. Red line was 90mph. It's experimental and falls under the Light Sport Aircraft category. Much easier and cheaper to obtain a license for than for a General Aviation plane. My kids were minors and on the ground alone so I didn't go anywhere. I just had to check it out before I sold it. Thinking about buying one within a year, the flying bug has gotten to me again.
It's titled "Kolb at the Dry Lake" or my channel is called "Luv2fu4ever69". Try this link.
th-cam.com/video/V2EY0ww71xo/w-d-xo.html
You want an adrenaline rush? Get up in the air! Then try it upside down... ;)
I gotta shut up and get going to work before I have to fire myself!!
Thank you, very genuinely explained. No marketing BS. My question still stays unanswered though. If I were to upgrade my OEM rotors just because they are undersized, so ends up warping with heat during downhill breaking. Very Common problem in Honda Odyssey’s. Should we stick with the plain rotors to avoid stress & cracking due to heat or go with drilled & slotted ones for better heat dissipation but prone to fracture under higher temperatures? Thanks in advance!
I second that question.
Upgrade your pads. If Brembo make their "Xtra" pads for your model, I would recommend them.
Otherwise, Ferodo DS Performance pads.
You could also consider Mintex M1144.
All three are street legal.
The "warping" you are experiencing is actually the oem pads making uneven deposits on the rotors. Leading to vibration that feels like warped discs.
Fit new rotors when you upgrade the pads. Plain surface rotors will be fine and last longer...and be cheaper to buy.
Focus your hard earned money on the pads.
(Speaking from 22 years, 600,000 road miles and loads of trackday experience.)
Hey fellow TIer!
Did not know you had a channel nice to see this. Been to some of the car meets at work with you.
Red GTI mk7.5.
Subscribed!
Thanks! We need to get those going again.
Wow!! great video, thank you very much
Thank you so much. Very informative and to the point!
Fantastic video man thank you
Drilled and slotted discs are more prone to cracking due to thermal shock IMHO, ie if you drive through a big puddle when your brake discs are very hot and get cooled very fast,
If you don't use the vehicle much and get glazing on discs and pads, the slotted can make the discs land pads ast longer I also do believe
First thing I did on my '18 Equinox awd was install Nitto NT421Q's but the stock pads still don't have enough friction so I'm installing Hawk HPS 5.0 up front and EBC Yellowstuff in the rear. I'd rather out brake an accident than participate in it and I came up short two weeks ago in stock form hence the changes. I hope to have all of my parts in this week.
Conclusion from this video: Aside from tires and brake pads, according to the rotor comparisons, the best design to help braking performance is the J-slotted rotor, "that gives you lot more pad bite." 7:33
The real determining factor is the driver. Most drivers break too late and not hard enough. That’s why a more aggressive initial bite can make stopping distance shorter. Hawk pads and slotted rotors 👍🏼
For what it’s worth, you are more enjoyable to listen to and learn from.
Great delivery and content Kudos!!
An amazing video. Informative to the "n-th" degree. Concise. thank you.
Bro this is a great video,very detailed and really helpful. 👏👏👏
I feel more edumicated. Thanks!
Wish I would of seen this sooner I just got some drilled rotors lol now I'm worried about cracking.
Yeah, me too. Just purchased a set of "extreme duty" hybrid rotors. Putting them on next weekend. If the rotors last for at least 2 sets of pads, then I'll be going back to plain faced rotors
VERY informative presentation! Thank you.
Whatever you say. I will hold my ground on drilled or slotted break rotors. The best brands in my opinion is ATE, zimmerman and brembo. These once also have a coating of paint/metarial so it wont rust.
Also one note: plan faced rotors WILL fade on track days after a few cornors or a long big downhill breaking on a hot summer day.
wheels locking is the final word on stopping . wheels locking up really before tires would normally skid is also the issue and of course fading with heat . im running drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic/ carbon pads . never been happier , just have to see about the long run.
How’s it been since this comment. I’m debating on some plain ones or some slotted and dimpled ones just can’t decide
Good answer....!! Tyres very important along with shockies
I get a bit tired of hearing about complaints of pads wearing to quickly
at the end of the day you’ve got a 2 tonne machine with a spinning disk and a pad is gonna squeeze the disk to stop the vehicle
something has to wear
it might as well be the pads don’t worry about it it’s a consumable....!!!
I was told the holes also keep water from accumulating on the surface when driving through puddles of water 💧 as far as looks go cross Drilled and Slotted look the best 👌🏻 for me!
I don't usually drive to work on a track but can go through puddles if water beating lil old ladies or guys that drive like them on daily streets looking way cooler than a mini van😛
Bottom line: dots and slots add nothing but disc porn. They do nothing to improve braking performance.
An ex colleague did his PhD on this and it's been proved by testing by a UK sports car manufacturer.
This guy's never driven a yoga with that ending. It's like "must stop like a 3/4 ton with a box of rocks" is in the design specifications.