If I am experiencing no issues and I want my spark plugs changed at 50,000 miles I should be able to have them changed with shop owner supplied OEM parts AND NO DIAGNOSTIC GOUGE! And if I want new front struts and an alignment it should be done as requested without a fee to inspect the front suspension. I would expect the installer to inform me if he finds worn bushings, marginal sway bar links or any other recommendations discovered in the course of installing the struts. I would want a sound suspension and approve the recommendations. But I do not want an automatic fee imposed before the requested work is performed. I would however be agreeable to a pre inspection fee as long as that fee was applied to the repair cost. I am not a thief trying to rob a shop owner of time and knowledge so I can do it myself or find someone to do it cheaper after I learned what was needed for a proper repair. And I do not appreciate the implication that I am a thief if I object to a greedy shop owner’s gouge.
The point of this video is to explain DIAGNOSTICS. You seemed to miss the title and whole point of the video. Most shops wouldn’t have an issue with your scenario. If you want a part changed and it’s not because of a concern many owners/techs are happy to be glorified parts changers. But he’s talking about… diagnosing a trouble code. Or diagnosing literally any customer concern. If you have a misfire and just want plugs done, they won’t just change spark plugs because you want them to. What if that doesn’t fix it? Sure it might, but it might not. It’s a liability issue here. You can then turn around and accuse them of any number of reasons why the car isn’t fixed correctly afterwards. If I were them and you acted like this in the office, I’d likely suggest you find someone cheaper too.
@ : I believe you have missed the point of my reply. There are shops that want to automatically tack on the extra fee calling it diagnostic or pre-work inspection or whatever name they give it. I do not have to have a problem with a misfire to request spark plugs. I consider replacement as preventive maintenance. The fact is that spark plugs do wear, and more so on modern engines. As they wear the cars computer modules compensate to keep it working smoothly. Among other things that may involve overworking the coils to compensate. So I may just want the plugs replaced. I do not need the inspection fee! Or if I want the brake fluid purged from the reservoir , master cylinder and lines, along with removing calipers to clean them up and lube them well so the pads do not drag or get stuck, I should be able to get that done on a preventative basis. And of course I would want to hear about it if the tech found an issue with lines, rotors or pads during the course of his work. I would not need the gouge of a complete brake inspection (aka diagnostic) fee. I am not being unreasonable and I never said anything about finding someone cheaper. You said that! If a shop does not want to do the routine work I request without the gouge that is ok. There are other more ethical places that will be happy to get the low hanging fruit. And just so we can have a better understanding here, I wholeheartedly agree that when there is an issue that will require extensive time, talent and equipment to discover for a proper repair, the customer needs to pay for the correct diagnosis to fix the issue. Just do not ask me to pay even one half hour labor for a flat tire because someone needs to find out if it’s a puncture or a bad valve or a bead seal or a wheel or just a defective tire.
@@davidholmes9874I'm a DIY mechanic who has spent decades doing most of his own work on cars and a mechanical engineer as well who understands electricity, sensors, and even how the frigging computer programs work in theory. A good number of misfires on modern cars are from a failing coil pack; and are not the spark plugs. So there really is a reason to plug in the scanner and read codes for a misfire. If you want to go your route. I suggest that you go in and request new plugs and new coil packs at the same time.
This guy's shop is legit. Sounds very similar to the independent shop I've been wrenching at the last 13 years. Must have the OEM scanners, and its very expensive to obtain the hardware and software. We're charging $175 for diag, and sometimes more depending on the issue.
8:13. I don’t understand this. Customers pay for outcomes. They want a full diagnostic. If you stop before you’ve completed the diagnostic then I don’t see how this leads to a good customer relationship. Ofc, it goes further because of you do find the problem in less time do you refund that back to the customer? Maybe I’ve just been screwed over by way too many shops but I’m not sure I’d want to try your shop based on the optics of this one thing.
If they find the problem in 5 minutes, you will not get a refund. They will keep the $170 and charge you for the parts and labor. They will also charge about 50% more on average than what they paid for the part. Let's say they find the problem in 5 minutes and the part to fix your car is an ignition coil and it costs $100 and their labor rate is $150. It only takes 15 minutes at most to replace the coil but they will charge you the full hour. You will pay $170 + $150 + $150 = $470 for 20 minutes of their time and a $100 ignition coil.
As a former Honda service department employee, there were a lot of potential customers come in, tell us all about the codes that their very inexpensive code reader gave them (many were less than $100 Cdn), the part that Google told them would fix the problem, as tell us that’s what they wanted done. We would have to have our shop foreman come out and explain that we, as a Honda dealer, could not do that - take their word and throw parts on their vehicle based on that code reader. When we got to the part where we told them that getting a code was just a starting point in the process, their deafness suddenly appeared. They did not understand that our exceptionally expensive Honda Code reader would provide diagnostics that the Canadian Tire/Amazon special code reader could not retrieve. They also did not understand that modern vehicles are very tech filled and complex, and that a diagnostic along with a very experienced tech, is their best bet when it came to spending money. Your video explanation is great, but, I doubt that the people that really need to have watched this, will not bother to do so.
I have a $450 bidirectional/live test/graphing scanner. Some day I will show up at some shop with a printout and tell them that I know that they need to validate those codes and see if there are other issues; but this is where I believe the problem is... I have absolutely no problem with a shop plugging in their several thousand dollar scanner and telling me more than what my modest ability scan tool tells me (although it tells me a whole lot more than the under $200 models).
You are totally correct for complicated issues. However, sometimes the scanner really does tell you where the problem is - or that its a wiring issue with that sensor. I ditched the Free AutoZone scanning because they only read active codes... and not stored codes of the past. I purchased a $450 bidirectional scan/graph/ reset scanner (Youcanic) and could see that the stored codes were only for the crankshaft position sensor (or its wiring - and the longest run of wiring is part of the sensor assembly). $95 for a parts later - and hours of getting the dang thing out and the new one in and problem solved. Now I can see that I have a problem with the TPMS system. That is either the TPMS module - or a wiring issue. I have just ordered the probes and a current draw light bulb I need to test the wiring (not just continuity but ability to carry current). There is no need to buy a module and pay someone to program it if its a wiring problem. The day I run into a problem with multiple possible causes is the day I'm willing to pay a good auto repair shop to spend the hours needed to sort through all the possibilities. Until then... I'll do the relatively simple stuff. Note: I grew up fixing cars and rebuilding engines in the late 1960's - 1970's and did virtually all of my own auto work until about 2000 (including brakes and suspension) when I got a very well paying very long hour job. Now that I'm no longer working I am returning to fixing my wife and my cars again for most things. I'm also an engineer and understand electrical circuits and sensors very well.
I have no problem paying $170 an hour for diagnostics, but what I hate is being charged 4 hours labor, and then they replace the part they deemed faulty as a result of their diagnosis, and it doesn't fix the problem. Then they call me and say that it didn't fix the problem so they will have to charge me for more diagnostic time. I know a mobile mechanic that charges $100 dollars an hour for a diagnosis and he guarantees the part or parts he replaces will fix it or else he eats the cost of the parts and if he can't fix it, he won't charge the customer. I'm sure these shops would never do that. They expect for the customer to pay for their mistakes too. Screw that! I'll stick with a good competent mobile mechanic. I understand mobile mechanics don't have overhead but shops need to be more accountable for their failed diagnosis.
I love your Channel and wish that you were located close to me. I'm in the Northeast. Your shop would be my go to shop for my '19 CX5 GTR . Not that I've had many issues, and those that I did have were fixed at the dealership, but I think that your shop would be cheaper and just as good as the dealership, if not better. Thank you for the many, informative post. They are very much appreciated!
So true,no crank no start no communication with pcm-ecm HS can network down.Good luck when there are more than 50 modules on current vehicles today.Part stores are about selling parts .
YES these damn diag's are useless . I was charged A outrageous price a few yr ago with my 99 durango At the dodge dealership in florida they could not find the problem of overheating at all But found enough outher problems they wanted it towed to the scrap yard , Then they could not figure out how to bypass the Anti theft to get it to start , WOW i had to show them what to do. I paid this 600.00+ doller fine .Just to get my truck back.
On my VW cars, I go to the dealer for any major work and diagnosis, the techs know my car inside and out and the prices they charge are more reasonable than some Independent shops.
Not seen video making it clear before this comment. Code reading and and list of parts it could be and you throw aftermarket parts at doesn't fix vehicle 90% of the time and creates more problems. My shop is 135.00 to diagnose with standard procedures with additional time for smoke testing and if electrical shorts or draws being by the hour. I guarantee the work and most of the time no parts required and if from another shop and or customer has thrown parts at it is minimum 3 hour charge and need all parts that were removed and rather them be reinstalled but I only use oem parts on driveability issues because of China junk parts with such a issue. The 135.00 covers shop expenses for software, hardware, in paid information sites to use for diagnostic purposes and manufacturer info sites that have charges for entering sites. Hour most of the time with visual and driving and scan data recording is in with the the charge and over and hour we normally have a good idea where we are at and need to go
Get a cheap ob2 scanner and if check light comes on get a code that will get u close to problem might be coil pack misfire u replace coil pack not super hard too self diagnose
Thanks for this. I always appreciate your videos. It reminds me a time back in the early 90's when my Jetta refused to start in my driveway. A friend referred me to a local VW dealer where he had a friend working as a tech. I had the car toed there and the tech later relayed what he found. He proceeded through the VW recommended trouble shooting steps and replaced an electronic chip. I can't remember what it did but did remember it was stamped with the Rockwell name. The tech told he then put the "bad" part back in the car and it started right up. He said he did not know why and said it was my choice on whether to replace it or continue to drive it with the "failed" part. Since I was soon going on a long road trip I chose to replace it, however, I always appreciated the tech explaining the troubleshooting steps to me. Another time, I had 1998 Civic with a check engine light. After checking the dealer tech let me know that it was probably two parts, the Mass Air flow sensor and another part. I asked them to change the part they thought it probably was. In this case it did not fix it so I had them replace the second part too which did resolve the issue. It's always great when you find a dealership that is both good and trustworthy. If Iived in your area, I would definitely take my vehicles to your shop for service. Thanks for all the great videos!
This is the worst profession in my opinion. Was a technician for Ten years, I don't understand why many people are so cheap thinking that all you are doing as a technician is changing parts and that you are ripping them off. A well experienced technician takers years to get to that level. I feel that these stupid parts stores and some TH-cam DIY so called experts with no real knowledge are to blame that this profession has no respect like Plumbers and Electricians. That is why I left and now work in the health care profession. Morons have more respect to these true experienced technicianns.
TH-cam DIYs are very helpful! They help people with some background knowledge, so that we won't be ripped off by dishonest mechanics! Unfortunately, in the car fixing world, there are plenty of bad/greedy/cheating mechanics, and there are not many honest/good mechanics. I no longer bring my cars in for mechanics to fix, unless it is a very difficult job. I did my car's brakes for the first time METICULOUSLY and no noise, braking so smooth, even wearing of the pads, etc. Most mechanics do a lousy job, because time is money to the shop owner!
@@Cassini-jr7oo people think this way because a host of technicians have burned them. I took a van to a dealer to adjust the sliding door. When they said it was ready the door no longer shut and the interior handle was also on upside down. I had to have my lawyer convince their GM to fix what they broke. Different dealer, different vehicle. Door was squeaky. They used a crowbar to try and pry on the door hinges. Ended up damaging front quarter panel. They wanted me to pay them $600 for this. Again my lawyer convinced them to fix what they broke. Different car, different repair shop. Had an AC that was no longer turning on. They replaced the control panel. Unfortunately it was my wife’s vehicle and didn’t notice for 8 months that the panel they put in didn’t have the defroster button… Maybe you do a great job. I hope so. But don’t blame customers when so many techs have proven to be untrustworthy idiots.
Totally agree some bad technicians that should not be in the business of fixing cars, are giving a bad reputation to this profession. Even though I no longer work in this profession I did it for Ten years I was always honest with customers. Told them straight out do you really want to spend money on a car that was almost on the way to the junkyard. I still defend the good technicians that are honest and have put the effort to get to that level. All the bad ones need to quit and find something else.
Typical car owner thinks: 1 A diagnostic trouble code IS a diagnosis. 2 Typical car owner thinks a $30 Code reader is the same thing as a $4000 scan tool. 3 Typical car owner thinks a person plugs in their computer to the car....and the computer " Tells the mechanic which part of replace."
Problem is, some shops with expensive diagnostic equipment will tell me the exact thing that's wrong with my car that I found out with my cheap code reader. I will disagree with them because I already put that part in my car. Then they will get upset at me and tell me to take a hike
@@kalani1987 You should have told them up front that you had scanned the vehicle and changed that part up front. That's info they need to know. Now, your new part might be bad... it happens; but then they need to test the part.
@@perryallan3524 don't see the difference if I told them that before or after their diagnosis. My issue was an evap leak and I told them to smoke the vehicle, which they reluctantly did. They still insisted I replace the evap canister solenoid again (third time doing so). I doubt that all three solenoids are bad. I did test them with my multimeter and they all click on. Bottom line is many shops don't want to do in-depth diagnostics because I feel they don't want to spend the time doing it
@@kalani1987 A successful shop owner technician in Louisiana who had a podcast said they when your presented with an estimate of repair, you need to say " If I last you from this repair you are presenting me with WILL IT FIX THE PROBLEM I CAME HERE FOR?" The answer should be yes. Any other answers go somewhere else. Yes sometimes a known good part must be substituted as part of diagnosing but I'm not talking about that. Any body can fire the parts cannon. We take our cars to the pros when we want the root cause determined/diagnosed/identified and fixed. A bank 1 oxygen sensor code does not necessarily mean that oxygen sensor is bad and needs replaced.
I agree! Even in the Bay Area, there are shops that charge $60 for the diagnosis, and can use that $60 toward the balance for the work, if you decide to have the work done. This mechanic like many others basically tries to brainwash people that it's ok for them to charge you an arm and leg. TH-cam is full of videos on educating a person on diagnosing a problem, maybe not fixing one, because some of the DIYs are really hard and are meant for mechanics. Unfortunately, in the car fixing world, there are plenty of bad/greedy/cheating mechanics, and there are not many honest/good mechanics.
The group of people to watch out for in the USA are: 1) healthcare insurance/providers. 2) lawyers. 3) dentists. 4) mechanics. These people can screw you up financially!
I hate parts chngers ? sorry mechcasninc all my life ?When all it is is a bad ground ? sorry but your shop is undereducated or wrong if you rely on diag tools alone
Need to find technicians like this. I don’t need a parts changer, I need a diagnostician.
If I am experiencing no issues and I want my spark plugs changed at 50,000 miles I should be able to have them changed with shop owner supplied OEM parts AND NO DIAGNOSTIC GOUGE! And if I want new front struts and an alignment it should be done as requested without a fee to inspect the front suspension. I would expect the installer to inform me if he finds worn bushings, marginal sway bar links or any other recommendations discovered in the course of installing the struts. I would want a sound suspension and approve the recommendations. But I do not want an automatic fee imposed before the requested work is performed. I would however be agreeable to a pre inspection fee as long as that fee was applied to the repair cost. I am not a thief trying to rob a shop owner of time and knowledge so I can do it myself or find someone to do it cheaper after I learned what was needed for a proper repair. And I do not appreciate the implication that I am a thief if I object to a greedy shop owner’s gouge.
The point of this video is to explain DIAGNOSTICS. You seemed to miss the title and whole point of the video. Most shops wouldn’t have an issue with your scenario. If you want a part changed and it’s not because of a concern many owners/techs are happy to be glorified parts changers.
But he’s talking about… diagnosing a trouble code. Or diagnosing literally any customer concern. If you have a misfire and just want plugs done, they won’t just change spark plugs because you want them to. What if that doesn’t fix it? Sure it might, but it might not.
It’s a liability issue here. You can then turn around and accuse them of any number of reasons why the car isn’t fixed correctly afterwards. If I were them and you acted like this in the office, I’d likely suggest you find someone cheaper too.
@ : I believe you have missed the point of my reply. There are shops that want to automatically tack on the extra fee calling it diagnostic or pre-work inspection or whatever name they give it. I do not have to have a problem with a misfire to request spark plugs. I consider replacement as preventive maintenance. The fact is that spark plugs do wear, and more so on modern engines. As they wear the cars computer modules compensate to keep it working smoothly. Among other things that may involve overworking the coils to compensate. So I may just want the plugs replaced. I do not need the inspection fee! Or if I want the brake fluid purged from the reservoir , master cylinder and lines, along with removing calipers to clean them up and lube them well so the pads do not drag or get stuck, I should be able to get that done on a preventative basis. And of course I would want to hear about it if the tech found an issue with lines, rotors or pads during the course of his work. I would not need the gouge of a complete brake inspection (aka diagnostic) fee. I am not being unreasonable and I never said anything about finding someone cheaper. You said that! If a shop does not want to do the routine work I request without the gouge that is ok. There are other more ethical places that will be happy to get the low hanging fruit. And just so we can have a better understanding here, I wholeheartedly agree that when there is an issue that will require extensive time, talent and equipment to discover for a proper repair, the customer needs to pay for the correct diagnosis to fix the issue. Just do not ask me to pay even one half hour labor for a flat tire because someone needs to find out if it’s a puncture or a bad valve or a bead seal or a wheel or just a defective tire.
@@davidholmes9874I'm a DIY mechanic who has spent decades doing most of his own work on cars and a mechanical engineer as well who understands electricity, sensors, and even how the frigging computer programs work in theory.
A good number of misfires on modern cars are from a failing coil pack; and are not the spark plugs. So there really is a reason to plug in the scanner and read codes for a misfire.
If you want to go your route. I suggest that you go in and request new plugs and new coil packs at the same time.
This guy's shop is legit. Sounds very similar to the independent shop I've been wrenching at the last 13 years. Must have the OEM scanners, and its very expensive to obtain the hardware and software. We're charging $175 for diag, and sometimes more depending on the issue.
8:13. I don’t understand this. Customers pay for outcomes. They want a full diagnostic. If you stop before you’ve completed the diagnostic then I don’t see how this leads to a good customer relationship.
Ofc, it goes further because of you do find the problem in less time do you refund that back to the customer?
Maybe I’ve just been screwed over by way too many shops but I’m not sure I’d want to try your shop based on the optics of this one thing.
If they find the problem in 5 minutes, you will not get a refund. They will keep the $170 and charge you for the parts and labor. They will also charge about 50% more on average than what they paid for the part. Let's say they find the problem in 5 minutes and the part to fix your car is an ignition coil and it costs $100 and their labor rate is $150. It only takes 15 minutes at most to replace the coil but they will charge you the full hour.
You will pay $170 + $150 + $150 = $470 for 20 minutes of their time and a $100 ignition coil.
11 minute 37 seconds ad for your company, this video is of almost no use for most people.
I will not use aftermarket parts. They are now more inferior than ever.
If OEM is available and the shop uses after market, there is something wrong with that shop.
How can you be absolutely sure it's genuine. 🤔
@@Ronick-Q-46 Better odds
There are high quality aftermarket parts but you have to do your research
Keep it OEM as much as possible.
As a former Honda service department employee, there were a lot of potential customers come in, tell us all about the codes that their very inexpensive code reader gave them (many were less than $100 Cdn), the part that Google told them would fix the problem, as tell us that’s what they wanted done.
We would have to have our shop foreman come out and explain that we, as a Honda dealer, could not do that - take their word and throw parts on their vehicle based on that code reader. When we got to the part where we told them that getting a code was just a starting point in the process, their deafness suddenly appeared.
They did not understand that our exceptionally expensive Honda Code reader would provide diagnostics that the Canadian Tire/Amazon special code reader could not retrieve. They also did not understand that modern vehicles are very tech filled and complex, and that a diagnostic along with a very experienced tech, is their best bet when it came to spending money.
Your video explanation is great, but, I doubt that the people that really need to have watched this, will not bother to do so.
I have a $450 bidirectional/live test/graphing scanner. Some day I will show up at some shop with a printout and tell them that I know that they need to validate those codes and see if there are other issues; but this is where I believe the problem is...
I have absolutely no problem with a shop plugging in their several thousand dollar scanner and telling me more than what my modest ability scan tool tells me (although it tells me a whole lot more than the under $200 models).
You are totally correct for complicated issues. However, sometimes the scanner really does tell you where the problem is - or that its a wiring issue with that sensor.
I ditched the Free AutoZone scanning because they only read active codes... and not stored codes of the past. I purchased a $450 bidirectional scan/graph/ reset scanner (Youcanic) and could see that the stored codes were only for the crankshaft position sensor (or its wiring - and the longest run of wiring is part of the sensor assembly). $95 for a parts later - and hours of getting the dang thing out and the new one in and problem solved.
Now I can see that I have a problem with the TPMS system. That is either the TPMS module - or a wiring issue. I have just ordered the probes and a current draw light bulb I need to test the wiring (not just continuity but ability to carry current). There is no need to buy a module and pay someone to program it if its a wiring problem.
The day I run into a problem with multiple possible causes is the day I'm willing to pay a good auto repair shop to spend the hours needed to sort through all the possibilities. Until then... I'll do the relatively simple stuff.
Note: I grew up fixing cars and rebuilding engines in the late 1960's - 1970's and did virtually all of my own auto work until about 2000 (including brakes and suspension) when I got a very well paying very long hour job. Now that I'm no longer working I am returning to fixing my wife and my cars again for most things. I'm also an engineer and understand electrical circuits and sensors very well.
I have no problem paying $170 an hour for diagnostics, but what I hate is being charged 4 hours labor, and then they replace the part they deemed faulty as a result of their diagnosis, and it doesn't fix the problem. Then they call me and say that it didn't fix the problem so they will have to charge me for more diagnostic time. I know a mobile mechanic that charges $100 dollars an hour for a diagnosis and he guarantees the part or parts he replaces will fix it or else he eats the cost of the parts and if he can't fix it, he won't charge the customer. I'm sure these shops would never do that. They expect for the customer to pay for their mistakes too. Screw that! I'll stick with a good competent mobile mechanic. I understand mobile mechanics don't have overhead but shops need to be more accountable for their failed diagnosis.
The problem turned out too be a Bolt missing from the Crank shaft position sensor . That my first cousin found in about 5 min.
General Diagnosis: $118 - $150 in Western Pennsylvania at a Independent Retailer. "Not including taxes"
A hundred dollar scan tool, and TH-cam has saved me several hundred dollars.
I love your Channel and wish that you were located close to me. I'm in the Northeast. Your shop would be my go to shop for my '19 CX5 GTR . Not that I've had many issues, and those that I did have were fixed at the dealership, but I think that your shop would be cheaper and just as good as the dealership, if not better. Thank you for the many, informative post. They are very much appreciated!
So true,no crank no start no communication with pcm-ecm HS can network down.Good luck when there are more than 50 modules on current vehicles today.Part stores are about selling parts .
I go to a garage and if I know the problem I tell them and no diagnosis charge. They always show me the old part they repaired.
YES these damn diag's are useless . I was charged A outrageous price a few yr ago with my 99 durango At the dodge dealership in florida they could not find the problem of overheating at all But found enough outher problems they wanted it towed to the scrap yard , Then they could not figure out how to bypass the Anti theft to get it to start , WOW i had to show them what to do. I paid this 600.00+ doller fine .Just to get my truck back.
On my VW cars, I go to the dealer for any major work and diagnosis, the techs know my car inside and out and the prices they charge are more reasonable than some Independent shops.
Not seen video making it clear before this comment. Code reading and and list of parts it could be and you throw aftermarket parts at doesn't fix vehicle 90% of the time and creates more problems. My shop is 135.00 to diagnose with standard procedures with additional time for smoke testing and if electrical shorts or draws being by the hour. I guarantee the work and most of the time no parts required and if from another shop and or customer has thrown parts at it is minimum 3 hour charge and need all parts that were removed and rather them be reinstalled but I only use oem parts on driveability issues because of China junk parts with such a issue. The 135.00 covers shop expenses for software, hardware, in paid information sites to use for diagnostic purposes and manufacturer info sites that have charges for entering sites. Hour most of the time with visual and driving and scan data recording is in with the the charge and over and hour we normally have a good idea where we are at and need to go
Very clearly explained!
Get a cheap ob2 scanner and if check light comes on get a code that will get u close to problem might be coil pack misfire u replace coil pack not super hard too self diagnose
that not allowed in California it is considered a repair they give the customer a loner scan tool and let the customer get the codes
Thee parts houses are basically firing the parts cannon and hoping it works
Thanks for this. I always appreciate your videos. It reminds me a time back in the early 90's when my Jetta refused to start in my driveway. A friend referred me to a local VW dealer where he had a friend working as a tech. I had the car toed there and the tech later relayed what he found. He proceeded through the VW recommended trouble shooting steps and replaced an electronic chip. I can't remember what it did but did remember it was stamped with the Rockwell name. The tech told he then put the "bad" part back in the car and it started right up. He said he did not know why and said it was my choice on whether to replace it or continue to drive it with the "failed" part. Since I was soon going on a long road trip I chose to replace it, however, I always appreciated the tech explaining the troubleshooting steps to me.
Another time, I had 1998 Civic with a check engine light. After checking the dealer tech let me know that it was probably two parts, the Mass Air flow sensor and another part. I asked them to change the part they thought it probably was. In this case it did not fix it so I had them replace the second part too which did resolve the issue.
It's always great when you find a dealership that is both good and trustworthy. If Iived in your area, I would definitely take my vehicles to your shop for service.
Thanks for all the great videos!
Why not just make cars with no tech.
Cost me like 30 $
thanks
This is the worst profession in my opinion. Was a technician for Ten years, I don't understand why many people are so cheap thinking that all you are doing as a technician is changing parts and that you are ripping them off. A well experienced technician takers years to get to that level. I feel that these stupid parts stores and some TH-cam DIY so called experts with no real knowledge are to blame that this profession has no respect like Plumbers and Electricians. That is why I left and now work in the health care profession. Morons have more respect to these true experienced technicianns.
TH-cam DIYs are very helpful! They help people with some background knowledge, so that we won't be ripped off by dishonest mechanics!
Unfortunately, in the car fixing world, there are plenty of bad/greedy/cheating mechanics, and there are not many honest/good mechanics.
I no longer bring my cars in for mechanics to fix, unless it is a very difficult job. I did my car's brakes for the first time METICULOUSLY and no noise, braking so smooth, even wearing of the pads, etc.
Most mechanics do a lousy job, because time is money to the shop owner!
@@Cassini-jr7oo people think this way because a host of technicians have burned them. I took a van to a dealer to adjust the sliding door. When they said it was ready the door no longer shut and the interior handle was also on upside down. I had to have my lawyer convince their GM to fix what they broke.
Different dealer, different vehicle. Door was squeaky. They used a crowbar to try and pry on the door hinges. Ended up damaging front quarter panel. They wanted me to pay them $600 for this. Again my lawyer convinced them to fix what they broke.
Different car, different repair shop. Had an AC that was no longer turning on. They replaced the control panel. Unfortunately it was my wife’s vehicle and didn’t notice for 8 months that the panel they put in didn’t have the defroster button…
Maybe you do a great job. I hope so. But don’t blame customers when so many techs have proven to be untrustworthy idiots.
Totally agree some bad technicians that should not be in the business of fixing cars, are giving a bad reputation to this profession. Even though I no longer work in this profession I did it for Ten years I was always honest with customers. Told them straight out do you really want to spend money on a car that was almost on the way to the junkyard. I still defend the good technicians that are honest and have put the effort to get to that level. All the bad ones need to quit and find something else.
Great information that makes perfect sense.
Typical car owner thinks: 1 A diagnostic trouble code IS a diagnosis. 2 Typical car owner thinks a $30 Code reader is the same thing as a $4000 scan tool. 3 Typical car owner thinks a person plugs in their computer to the car....and the computer " Tells the mechanic which part of replace."
Problem is, some shops with expensive diagnostic equipment will tell me the exact thing that's wrong with my car that I found out with my cheap code reader. I will disagree with them because I already put that part in my car. Then they will get upset at me and tell me to take a hike
@@kalani1987 You should have told them up front that you had scanned the vehicle and changed that part up front. That's info they need to know. Now, your new part might be bad... it happens; but then they need to test the part.
@@perryallan3524 don't see the difference if I told them that before or after their diagnosis. My issue was an evap leak and I told them to smoke the vehicle, which they reluctantly did. They still insisted I replace the evap canister solenoid again (third time doing so). I doubt that all three solenoids are bad. I did test them with my multimeter and they all click on. Bottom line is many shops don't want to do in-depth diagnostics because I feel they don't want to spend the time doing it
@@kalani1987 A successful shop owner technician in Louisiana who had a podcast said they when your presented with an estimate of repair, you need to say " If I last you from this repair you are presenting me with WILL IT FIX THE PROBLEM I CAME HERE FOR?" The answer should be yes. Any other answers go somewhere else. Yes sometimes a known good part must be substituted as part of diagnosing but I'm not talking about that. Any body can fire the parts cannon. We take our cars to the pros when we want the root cause determined/diagnosed/identified and fixed. A bank 1 oxygen sensor code does not necessarily mean that oxygen sensor is bad and needs replaced.
$170 for initial charge is plain rip off! Thank u
I agree! Even in the Bay Area, there are shops that charge $60 for the diagnosis, and can use that $60 toward the balance for the work, if you decide to have the work done.
This mechanic like many others basically tries to brainwash people that it's ok for them to charge you an arm and leg. TH-cam is full of videos on educating a person on diagnosing a problem, maybe not fixing one, because some of the DIYs are really hard and are meant for mechanics.
Unfortunately, in the car fixing world, there are plenty of bad/greedy/cheating mechanics, and there are not many honest/good mechanics.
The group of people to watch out for in the USA are: 1) healthcare insurance/providers. 2) lawyers. 3) dentists. 4) mechanics. These people can screw you up financially!
I hate parts chngers ? sorry mechcasninc all my life ?When all it is is a bad ground ? sorry but your shop is undereducated or wrong if you rely on diag tools alone