Sir you are a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you for posting this video, you are to the point, concise, and truthfully a wonderful teacher. Though it is a VERY simple procedure I over thought it to the highest degree so my relief is almost unworldly, plus now I see how easy it'll be to get longer clutch lines installed so I can get a higher set of handlebars. Hands down the best how to video I've seen to date
Thank you so much. I rode for an hour very carefully and slow because the clutch was slipping. Searched and this video popped up. Saved me a lot of money and time. It works fine now.
Glad to have stumbled upon this video. Had this issue with my 92 Intruder 800. On a short ride clutch started slipping (so I thought). It quickly within a few miles basically quit working all together. I could shift freely but the clutch would not disengage. The lever was under much more pressure than normal. I could sit at idle and put in gear and even revving motor with clutch out bike was dead in the water. After purchasing a torch cleaning set that had a wire tiny enough to fit into the return port on bottom of master cylinder, as soon as I pushed into that hole the fluid burped back into reservoir and everything went back to normal. Side note- master cylinder had been rebuilt at end of season. I started bike a few times over winter and rode just around the block to keep everything flowing. After sitting during very cold months was when this occurred. I guess after the master was rebuilt there may have been something that dislodged and blocked that return port. Thanks again for making this video. Many other clutch issues only address bleeding for spongy clutch. This was the first video that talked about the opposite issue of the clutch not disengaging. Well done sir…many thanks!
I have nothing coming out of the little hole , you said to spray brake fluid on it several times and use a little wire ,, did you mean break clean ,, I’ve never seen brake fluid come in any kind of spray bottle
Thanks! Will give this a try. Few weeks back my clutch wouldn't engage fully. Replaced the very nasty looking fluids and now it won't disengage fully when the bike has been running for a while. I think you just solved my problem:)
To be clear this fix is for when the clutch is not engaging (bike not moving when releasing the clutch) after it warms up. Yours may be a different issue if it stays engaged after the bike has been running for awhile.
Two items here.. 1st and foremost, on Japanese bikes, always prefer a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) to the Philips screwdriver - due to differences in the heads of each, the latter with keep on slipping and consequently damaging the screws' heads. Also, to unclog the braking fluid line (in case it's really clogged or just as a precaution), you can use a thin guitar string - but you need to do it very gently to not damage the hose.
You need to use HIGH TEMPERATURE brake fluid Dot 4. Make sure the brake fluid is rated for at least 475ºF- typical Dot 4 is about 350º- no good. Again, high temperature Dot 4; some companies label it as Dot4+ - At any rate- This will ABSOLUTELY solve your problem long term along with a good cleaning of the master cylinder itself. Ride Safe Everybody.
Hello. What was the cause of this repair? What symptoms, before you did anything, I lost the power of the clutch. Have cleaned and refilled the brake fluid and vented the system. But there are no air bubbles in the return to the container on the handlebars ...
Clutch stops engaging when warm, starts slipping and after stopping you try to put it in gear, release the clutch and bike doesn't move. This is to fix the issue after driving for awhile and then the clutch stops working. Works ok when it's cold but not when hot.
@@rocketkid4228 I bought a repair kit for the slave cylinder online. Changed a screw, spring and rubber gasket. Filled up with brake fluid and pumped a number of times as the film shows, aired etc. the clutch was as good as new.
I'm looking at an '06 C90 and I am not sure about the clutch feel. It doesn't engage until the handle is almost completely released. There is very little take-up when pulling in the handle. Is this normal for C90s?
So I have a quick question I have this exact issue, and I rebuild my master cylinder and bought and replaced my slave cylinder. So the tiny hole, when the clutch lever is not pulled in, should I be able to see the spring part of the inside mater cylinder or the metal piston part
Tiny hole it's humanly impossible to see anything in there, is that small. The bigger hole to the left of the tiny hole is where you could actually see the spring and piston when the lever is pulled in. With the lever out you should not see anything other than clear break fluid. As you pull the lever in you should start seeing first the piston passing thru the hole, then the spring when the lever is pulling in all the way. If you see the spring first and then the piston then they were assemble in the wrong order and is why the clutch doesn't work.
I Have exactly the same problem, I have bled the system, the master and slave Cylinder cleaned, but the different thing on my bike its that the little hole does not bubble up like yours even thou its already cleaned, Any Ideas ?
If it's cleaned it would be spraying fluid upward. Try again to clean it, I remember I had to force some brake fluid in the little hold lining it up with the red straw comes with the bottle. I had it all wrapped in towel to protect my eyes and bike paint. Also used a fine wire from a bbq brush. When it's clean it should spray brake clean out of the hole. Good luck!.
I can’t get fluid into my slave cylinder I been trying to bleed my system I was able to get some air out of the line but still I can’t get any fluid out of my slave cylinder
I’m not getting anything out of the little hole , you said to spray brake fluid in it several times , did you mean brake clean ,, I’m sure how you spray brake fluid
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling noise comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
If your clutch line on your intruder blows out (and if it hasn't it will soon just go look at it pull that little springy thing down and bend it a little bit see if there's a crack or two 🤣) it's a ridiculous rubber thing connected to an even more ridiculous Hardline and there's a company that makes a kit to replace that entire ridiculous thing with one braided hose from front to back the OEM part that you could never in a million years install without ripping the bike to pieces and quite frankly sucks is about $450, the kit to replace all of that fragile clutch line with a end end braided hose with a banjo fitting on each end is $50 I've read on forums that it's a good idea to reuse the banjo bolts off of the bike instead of using the new ones that they give you I don't really know enough about it to have an opinion either way on that it's just some stuff that I've heard people on the internet saying but I'm going to try to find a link to the kit and if you need to replace your clutch cable on your intruder it will make your life much much easier and when you're done your life will be way better than if you had the original $450 garbage on it.
Sir you are a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you for posting this video, you are to the point, concise, and truthfully a wonderful teacher. Though it is a VERY simple procedure I over thought it to the highest degree so my relief is almost unworldly, plus now I see how easy it'll be to get longer clutch lines installed so I can get a higher set of handlebars. Hands down the best how to video I've seen to date
Hands down the best compliment I've received on this video. Glad it worked to fix the issue.
Thank you so much. I rode for an hour very carefully and slow because the clutch was slipping. Searched and this video popped up. Saved me a lot of money and time. It works fine now.
Glad to have stumbled upon this video. Had this issue with my 92 Intruder 800. On a short ride clutch started slipping (so I thought). It quickly within a few miles basically quit working all together. I could shift freely but the clutch would not disengage. The lever was under much more pressure than normal. I could sit at idle and put in gear and even revving motor with clutch out bike was dead in the water.
After purchasing a torch cleaning set that had a wire tiny enough to fit into the return port on bottom of master cylinder, as soon as I pushed into that hole the fluid burped back into reservoir and everything went back to normal.
Side note- master cylinder had been rebuilt at end of season. I started bike a few times over winter and rode just around the block to keep everything flowing. After sitting during very cold months was when this occurred. I guess after the master was rebuilt there may have been something that dislodged and blocked that return port.
Thanks again for making this video. Many other clutch issues only address bleeding for spongy clutch. This was the first video that talked about the opposite issue of the clutch not disengaging. Well done sir…many thanks!
Thank you for sharing! We had the same problem and could not figure it out until I tried this.
Glad it worked out.
Thank you! Very good video! Exactly what is wrong with my 99 Intruder 1500 lc
Thank you for making this video, I was about to replace my clutches 😮
I did what you said and it worked like a charm. THANK YOU for making this video! ❤️
l was going to change all the seals on the master and slave cylinder on my 1200 bandit but l thought i'll give this a go and it worked thanks
Great video!
It helped me a lot!
The clutch works now without any problems!
Greetings from the Netherlands!
Thanks for share. This way is the easy way my Intruder is back ...!!!!!
Yea, it did help. If you do automotive work this really is pretty simple.
Thanks so much for this video I got my bike going through watching your video.
I'm glad it worked out!
I have nothing coming out of the little hole , you said to spray brake fluid on it several times and use a little wire ,, did you mean break clean ,, I’ve never seen brake fluid come in any kind of spray bottle
Brake cleaner sorry about the confusion and mistake.
Thanks! I have the same problem! I’m going to try this!
Thanks! Will give this a try. Few weeks back my clutch wouldn't engage fully. Replaced the very nasty looking fluids and now it won't disengage fully when the bike has been running for a while. I think you just solved my problem:)
To be clear this fix is for when the clutch is not engaging (bike not moving when releasing the clutch) after it warms up. Yours may be a different issue if it stays engaged after the bike has been running for awhile.
Two items here.. 1st and foremost, on Japanese bikes, always prefer a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) to the Philips screwdriver - due to differences in the heads of each, the latter with keep on slipping and consequently damaging the screws' heads. Also, to unclog the braking fluid line (in case it's really clogged or just as a precaution), you can use a thin guitar string - but you need to do it very gently to not damage the hose.
Thank you, great tip, just bought a intruda, had same issue.
Same
Appreciate the guide, I’m going to give this a shot on my 01 1500….
Let me know how it went
@@agapioskalokerinos9467 beautifully. I wish I could share my experience in video format back. Thank you for the simple and Fantastic video.
You need to use HIGH TEMPERATURE brake fluid Dot 4. Make sure the brake fluid is rated for at least 475ºF- typical Dot 4 is about 350º- no good. Again, high temperature Dot 4; some companies label it as Dot4+ - At any rate- This will ABSOLUTELY solve your problem long term along with a good cleaning of the master cylinder itself. Ride Safe Everybody.
suzuki calls for dot4... so I think its good enough
@@Marco-qe5zw or 5.1 say many.
Hello. What was the cause of this repair? What symptoms, before you did anything, I lost the power of the clutch. Have cleaned and refilled the brake fluid and vented the system. But there are no air bubbles in the return to the container on the handlebars ...
Clutch stops engaging when warm, starts slipping and after stopping you try to put it in gear, release the clutch and bike doesn't move. This is to fix the issue after driving for awhile and then the clutch stops working. Works ok when it's cold but not when hot.
Did this help your problem? I’m having the same issue
@@rocketkid4228 I bought a repair kit for the slave cylinder online. Changed a screw, spring and rubber gasket. Filled up with brake fluid and pumped a number of times as the film shows, aired etc. the clutch was as good as new.
@@TheNordmocan you please which one you got?
when the clutch loses pressure does pumping it make it come back momentarily?
Maybe there is air in the line, try to bleed the line.
Thanks, I use a fine Sewing needle.
Have you had any actual transmission trouble with your intruder?
No tranny issues with mine, that's a different problem.
What about going into 1st with clutch lever pulled and dies?
Is the kick stand down ?
I'm looking at an '06 C90 and I am not sure about the clutch feel. It doesn't engage until the handle is almost completely released. There is very little take-up when pulling in the handle. Is this normal for C90s?
I don't think it has hydrolic clutch so this fix does not apply.
It does have a hydraulic clutch. After some digging/reading online, it seems that the condition I described is typical of the C90.
So I have a quick question I have this exact issue, and I rebuild my master cylinder and bought and replaced my slave cylinder. So the tiny hole, when the clutch lever is not pulled in, should I be able to see the spring part of the inside mater cylinder or the metal piston part
Tiny hole it's humanly impossible to see anything in there, is that small. The bigger hole to the left of the tiny hole is where you could actually see the spring and piston when the lever is pulled in. With the lever out you should not see anything other than clear break fluid. As you pull the lever in you should start seeing first the piston passing thru the hole, then the spring when the lever is pulling in all the way. If you see the spring first and then the piston then they were assemble in the wrong order and is why the clutch doesn't work.
Thanks. My problem is that the clutch won't DISengage but I bet it's a similar issue.
It may be something different if it doesn't disengage.
I Have exactly the same problem, I have bled the system, the master and slave Cylinder cleaned, but the different thing on my bike its that the little hole does not bubble up like yours even thou its already cleaned, Any Ideas ?
If it's cleaned it would be spraying fluid upward. Try again to clean it, I remember I had to force some brake fluid in the little hold lining it up with the red straw comes with the bottle. I had it all wrapped in towel to protect my eyes and bike paint. Also used a fine wire from a bbq brush. When it's clean it should spray brake clean out of the hole. Good luck!.
I can’t get fluid into my slave cylinder I been trying to bleed my system I was able to get some air out of the line but still I can’t get any fluid out of my slave cylinder
I’m not getting anything out of the little hole , you said to spray brake fluid in it several times , did you mean brake clean ,, I’m sure how you spray brake fluid
Brake clean not brake fluid
Why did you say DOT 4 brake fluid, not DOT 3? My Suzuki manual says either DOT 3 of DOT 4 is fine.
Mine says dot4 on the top plate specifically.
My bike wont engage in neutral after its on and in first gear. I have to turn it off. Could that be the cause as well? Thanks in advanced
Give it a try although I don't think is the same problem
@@agapioskalokerinos9467 thanks brother
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling noise comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
Something may be loose inside, maybe worth a visit to the mechanic.
Video saved my ass, thanks
Great video
Thanks for sharing
DOT 4 Brake fluid?
Correct, clutch uses brake fluid make sure is DOT 4 as it resists water vapor from mixing with it.
if it doesnt work, you need to make a reverse bleed with a seringe.
Thx
Man i bought a slave cylinder rebuild kit and barnett clutch kit and all i needed was to clean this clogged hole.
How does everyone just have a clear rubber hose laying around?? Do all bikers just keep rubber tubing around lol
I think is good to bleed master and then slave.
If your clutch line on your intruder blows out (and if it hasn't it will soon just go look at it pull that little springy thing down and bend it a little bit see if there's a crack or two 🤣) it's a ridiculous rubber thing connected to an even more ridiculous Hardline and there's a company that makes a kit to replace that entire ridiculous thing with one braided hose from front to back the OEM part that you could never in a million years install without ripping the bike to pieces and quite frankly sucks is about $450, the kit to replace all of that fragile clutch line with a end end braided hose with a banjo fitting on each end is $50 I've read on forums that it's a good idea to reuse the banjo bolts off of the bike instead of using the new ones that they give you I don't really know enough about it to have an opinion either way on that it's just some stuff that I've heard people on the internet saying but I'm going to try to find a link to the kit and if you need to replace your clutch cable on your intruder it will make your life much much easier and when you're done your life will be way better than if you had the original $450 garbage on it.
Not sure about a clutch cable, this repair is for hydraulic clutch so there is no cable.