You’re saying that the aluminum pushrod is supposed to be on the exhaust side and that struck me wrong as I thought it was the other way around. A quick bit of research brings me to the discussion on the subject, indicating different types of Briggs go both ways, causing some of the confusion. Another person suggested and this person sounded like he might know what he’s talking about said that it depends on which side has a compression release on the cam and that side should have the aluminum memory strikes me correct that would be in intake. Taryl always says it’s not rocket science and you can use steel for both! I will mention again the one thing nobody wants to hear on the subject that you need to pull up shroud on the top and find out where fluffy the mouse made his nest, which is why the cylinder got hot to begin with. It’s my experience that cylinders getting hot is why this junk happens.
Definitely opposite of the normal way they go. Steel for both would work but pushrods should be the weakest link incase there is a failure something easily replaceable breaks. Always seems to be a mouse nest no doubt!
I usually will call and explain to a customer at this point what happened and go from there. Either the guide had walked out or there was rust on the guide keeping the valve from moving fully. Either way to ensure it does not happen again it will need checked out fully addressed correctly. I will address it with the customer and go from there. Thanks for watching!
No signs like this on the head, I see stuck valves quite a bit just from surface rust on the valve and sticks it up between the valve and guide. This takes almost no rust with the clearances these engines have and will not need much to free up without issue and keep that way. If you have one that has been really hot it will show with heat marks. If it were to happen again we would remove the head and check out the valve train but would most likely need nothing more than a little polishing to the valve to get it back to new. We see probably 6-8 of these instances every year and they need nothing more than this. Thanks for watching!
Your videos are the BEST
Thanks for watching!
You’re saying that the aluminum pushrod is supposed to be on the exhaust side and that struck me wrong as I thought it was the other way around. A quick bit of research brings me to the discussion on the subject, indicating different types of Briggs go both ways, causing some of the confusion. Another person suggested and this person sounded like he might know what he’s talking about said that it depends on which side has a compression release on the cam and that side should have the aluminum memory strikes me correct that would be in intake. Taryl always says it’s not rocket science and you can use steel for both! I will mention again the one thing nobody wants to hear on the subject that you need to pull up shroud on the top and find out where fluffy the mouse made his nest, which is why the cylinder got hot to begin with. It’s my experience that cylinders getting hot is why this junk happens.
Definitely opposite of the normal way they go. Steel for both would work but pushrods should be the weakest link incase there is a failure something easily replaceable breaks. Always seems to be a mouse nest no doubt!
How do you like the spark check,r?
I love it!!!
Are you sure the valve guide didn’t move and you hammered it back in place?
Didn't look like it, usually I see them seized against the valve guide and shaft with the slightest amount of surface rust
Great 😊😊😊
You need to check that the valve guide has not "walked" out.
Thanks for watching!
I usually will call and explain to a customer at this point what happened and go from there. Either the guide had walked out or there was rust on the guide keeping the valve from moving fully. Either way to ensure it does not happen again it will need checked out fully addressed correctly. I will address it with the customer and go from there. Thanks for watching!
send me the link to your jump pack. awesome job.
Thanks for watching! You can find the jump pack at amzn.to/47W5W45
I got a 22 hp v twin intek and that vanguard looks like a better built engine
I would say hands down built much better than standard Briggs is
hey chief
Hey buddy
You need a new head. It will break again. The engine got run hot. Check for mouse house or grass clog.
No signs like this on the head, I see stuck valves quite a bit just from surface rust on the valve and sticks it up between the valve and guide. This takes almost no rust with the clearances these engines have and will not need much to free up without issue and keep that way. If you have one that has been really hot it will show with heat marks. If it were to happen again we would remove the head and check out the valve train but would most likely need nothing more than a little polishing to the valve to get it back to new. We see probably 6-8 of these instances every year and they need nothing more than this. Thanks for watching!