ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2020
- Simple Step by Step process to remove cylinder head and replace o-rings on a Ducati 2 valve engine without a cylinder head gasket. This video also shows how to remove and replace the cam timing belt and how to tension the timing belt for the 2 valve Ducati twins. A dry compression test and a wet compression test are also performed.
To Get the Job Done:
Click-Type Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3amnqtg
Ducati Torque Wrench Tool 15mm: amzn.to/3gyyWmJ
Ducati Torque Wrench Tool (Set of 2 - 14mm & 15mm): amzn.to/33bgEmR
HEX Socket Set (Includes 10mm needed): amzn.to/30RLdhJ
Hex T-Wrench Set: amzn.to/2Y1bGHI
Permatex medium Thread Lock: amzn.to/2EFwtKa
Loctite Blue Thread Lock: amzn.to/2QA9mDf
Motorcycle Stand Set: amzn.to/3jncpLo
Compression Tester: amzn.to/31CdSrj
Ducati OEM Cylinder Head o-ring (High Pressure): amzn.to/3gBOdDh
Ducati OEM Cylinder head o-ring Set of 2 (Low Pressure): ebay.to/2Zc5FZ5
PROTECTIVE GEAR:
-Face Masks: amzn.to/3D0zCiW
-Safety Goggles: amzn.to/3fZQfNq
-Safety Goggles (2-Pack): amzn.to/2PX2eR5
-Ear Protection Ear Muffs: amzn.to/3QOBMrq
-Ear Plugs: amzn.to/3CZJHfR
-Shop Gloves: amzn.to/3aGzAgV
-Nitrile Gloves (6-mil): amzn.to/3awjyWQ
Video Index:
0:07 What the o-rings Look Like
0:14 What the Leak Looks Like
0:21 Oil Distribution for the Cylinder head
0:44 What Has to be Done
1:15 Putting the Bike Into 6th gear
1:34 Rotate Engine with Rear Wheel
1:36 Remove Pulley Covers
1:52 How To Check Timing belt Tension
2:02 Marking the Belt to the Pulleys
2:14 Lock the Rear Wheel in Position to Prevent engine Rotation
2:18 Remove Air Filters
2:25 Remove Carburetors
2:43 Remove Vacuum line For Fuel Cut-off
2:46 Remove oil Cooler
3:00 Loosen Lower Exhaust Manifold
3:30 Remove Timing Belt
3:47 Loosen the Cylinder Head Nuts
4:40 Remove the Cylinder Head
5:00 The Culprit O-Ring
5:25 A Close up Look at the O-Rings
5:42 Putting the New O-Rings On
6:07 A Look At the Cylinder Head
6:21 Installing the Cylinder head
7:23 How To Torque The Cylinder Head
8:53 Install Oil Cooler
9:08 Tighten Exhaust manifold Ring Nut
9:30 Install Carburetors
9:48 Install Timing Belt
10:16 Tension the Timing Belt
10:48 Install Timing Belt Pulley Covers and connect Oil Pressure Sensor
11:16 Tighten Exhaust manifold Clamp Bolts
11:26 Rotate Engine to Check for Interference
11:50 Dry Compression Test
12:06 Wet Compression Test
12:45 Air Filters Back On Fuel Back On
12:50 Start the Engine
13:05 Inspection After 15 Miles
13:17 Inspection After 600 Mile 3rd Torque Stage
→ Become a ScubaMoto Subscriber - goo.gl/iAwSQc
→ If this video helped, please give a thumbs up and subscribe for future videos
→ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. Win!
→ Business Inquiries email: scubamoto@outlook.com
→ Support this channel - goo.gl/iAwSQc
#ducati #ducaticylinderhead - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Just pulled the bodywork off my bimota db4 for winter maintenance and found a wet cylinder. 5 min later, I found your video. Thanks!
Glad to help. Good luck with it.
Excellent video, clear, concise and quick.
I'm glad you liked it, Thanks for sharing.
Perfect video - just what I needed for doing the same fix on my bike. Thanks!
Leo Schneede: I'm glad it helped. Thanks for the comment.
A very good video which gives the motivation to open the engine.
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment and enjoy the project.
Very nice video. I feel I could swap the stock pistons for high compression ones on my 96 900ss after watching this. I saw you reccomended pivoting the engine to get to the vertical cylinder.
One of the best videos ive seen explaining in detail and clearly.
Very good 👌...
Greg K: Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Excellent instructions
Glad you liked it.
Very nice fix!! Thanx so much....
You're welcome! I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for the comment and for sharing.
Very good video. I watched it even though my engine has no leak! Would love to see you do a video on changing your belts next time you do it.
Thanks. I'm glad you liked the video. The manual will reference crank position markings but I use the method shown in this video to change belts since the process in this video required belt removal and replacement. The process in I use in this video does, however, assume that the belts are correctly installed when starting the process. Just like in this video, it's not that difficult to transfer markings to the new belts before removing the old ones. For belt tension, I use 6mm to tension the vertical belt and 5mm for the horizontal. Also, as shown in this video, lock the rear wheel in top gear while swapping belts to prevent engine movement. After changing, slowly rotate the engine before starting as a doublecheck to ensure no valve interference. Thanks again for the comment and for sharing.
I watched even though i have no motorcycle at all. Good vid.
Awesome mate!
Thank you!
Awesome video 👌🏻
B Quist: I'm glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment.
Great video, thanks
Glad I could help. Thanks for sharing.
Very great video!
Mickie Wolf: I'm glad you liked it! Thanks for the kind words.
Great vídeo, if you ever have to Change piston rings please make one
Miguel Matos: Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video. If I do a piston ring replacement, I'll be sure to make a similar step-by-step video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank Y0u Sir!
You bet!
This is the best video for taking the heads off of the monster, thanks a lot, I can do my own valve check now :) What's up with the torque wrench tools btw, do you need both 14 and 15mm or just one?
Thanks, I'm glad the video helped. The head nuts are 15mm so I only used a 15mm for the process in the video but a lot of these only come in sets.
Huge props for making such a detailed video, thanks! One question, where did you get your 15mm torque wrench converter? I haven't been able to find the one you have on the web. Thanks in advance!
Keiki Crafter: The one in the video came out of the UK. If you search on "Ducati Cylinder Head Nut Tool (15mm)" You will find several. Enjoy the project. I hope that helps
@@ScubaMoto Thank you so much!
really great tutorial! I have a leak at my base cylinder the vertical one, is it hard to fix it ? Local services asked for 800$ no spare parts involved. I want to do it myself. Wdyt ?
So isolated it to the gasket at the base of the vertical? I assume all torques are confirmed. To replace the gasket (and o-rings while you're in there) you'll need a ring compressor and you'll need to pull at least one of the engine frame bolts to drop it enough to clear the head removal. Good luck with it.
Awesome video, thank you. I just pulled the head on my vertical cylinder, I am not seeing a head gasket. Does that sound correct?
Yes. The bike in the video also has no head gasket, just the o-rings. Old Ducati twins: No coolant, no head gasket.
@@ScubaMoto Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Great video.
Is it possible to do the vertical cylinder while the engine is still n the bike? I have a bike with both heads leaking.
Many thanks
cobber427: I'm glad you liked the video. You can leave the engine on the bike. it should go smoothly if you pivot the engine down on the rear engine mount and support it carefully. That should give you room to clear the head.
@@ScubaMoto hi there it is only a few more bolts so I dropped the whole engine out to do the vertical cylinder. Replaced o rings and now no oil leaks. Many thanks
cobber427: Great job getting those o-rings replaced. Thanks for letting us know it went well.
Great video! I have the same problem on my 1999 M600. I rode for like 1500 km after the last oil change and I noticed the oil level went down to Min. Do you think that this might be the cause?
If the oil is coming from between the head and the cylinder, then it is likely the same o-ring failure as the video. The bike has the same head seal design (no head gasket).
hi ! nice video ! I do mine ducati now, do i have to care about tdc for both cylinders when i have to change the orings on both of them ?
armisttice: As long as things are aligned correctly when you start the job, there is no need to involve tdc with the method shown. For the horizontal cylinder head, you can follow exactly what I do in the video because the engine can never rotate while the belt is off so the belt markings are all you need. If you prefer to treat it as a reassembly and use the tdc method, that is fine too; so long as all alignments are followed properly.
It sounds like your vertical cylinder is also leaking. For the vertical cylinder, it is possible to leave the engine on the bike, but you will likely need to pivot the engine down on the rear engine mount and support it. This gives you room to clear the vertical head for removal. The problem is ensuring that the engine cannot rotate after you mark the timing belts. If nothing moves, then it's the same process I show as for the horizontal. No need to involve tdc. I hope that helps.
@@ScubaMoto yes thank you that helps a lot. Can i clean the cabron bulid up without dissasembling the valves and cylinders( for example with wd40/egr and carb cleaner- thats what i have in the garage)??
I have MS2R800 its pretty silimar with the horizontal, the vertical cylinder has a clear way out without frame interference.
Hey mate 🙌 will a Crow foot fit all 4 head bots
Great video tutorial
Glad the video helped. Thanks for the comment. I haven't tried a crow foot on mine but that's because my crow foots are simple open end and I would never trust them for torque plus it's a tight quarters job and they're too fat around the nuts. Some crow foot look better than others. I might be ok with torqueing the ones that look like box wrenches but then you're basically talking about what I used in the video. Thanks for the comment and good luck with the job.
Had the same thing going on with my 1991 900ss. Replaced the o rings and engine was dry at 196,000 😊😊😊😊when I traded it for a 2001 ST2 😊😊😊
Nice 👍 Thanks for sharing.
@@ScubaMoto here is a little video of my ST2 GOD I LOVED THAT BIKE!!! buy the way, this is the SECOND time around!!!😁😁😁🏍 th-cam.com/video/voMQ-4Xo-7Q/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wWh4Vh8nshUXD9V-
I do enjoy a good love story. You clearly loved and took good care of that bike. Thanks for sharing.
@@ScubaMoto thanks rider !!!! I was a Ducati guy for 500,000 miles on 4 bikes but I really loved this one!!!! Enjoy!!😁😁😁👍🏍 th-cam.com/video/r2p9mr19-QQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=w5s9m9ABYhFw3NPG
Scubamoto i have the same problem with a 2015 Monster do you know if the procedure is similar? Great video! Thank you!
Joey lopez: The procedure will be different since there will be a head gasket and/or liquid coolant. Which monster? Have you isolated the location of the leak?
@@ScubaMoto its a 15 M821. From what I can tell by just a looking at it, and what I've researched in the service manual, I think it may be a similar problem located along the bottom LEFT (Rider's side) of the horizontal cylinder head. I haven't gotten into the cylinder yet. The monster is my only transportation and the shop just isn't an option for me. This is my first time attempting a head gasket replacement I want to be as accurate as I can. What do you think? The video is great. 👍
Joey lopez: Thanks, I'm glad you like the video. Are you seeing only oil with no coolant? There are plenty reporting this and sometimes with coolant getting in the oil. If there's no transfer of coolant and oil then it's likely just the oil return but it really doesn't matter since you'll likely need to replace the head gasket if that is definitely the leak source. If it was my bike I would also go for it but there are enough differences that I would at least pick up a manual to refer to during the job. It sounds like you already have a service manual so good luck with the fix.
@@ScubaMoto it doesn't seem like there is coolant but its possible the amount is low. Right now the leak is slow and appears to be weeping. If I discover anything I'd be happy to report back my findings.
I have oil on my plugs and its causing obvious mis firing problems would this be because my O rings need replacing or something more serious? id like to do the work myself but don't know what i might be getting into and if i'll be able to fix it myself?
Rachel Bailey: Oil on plugs can be several things including worn piston rings, worn valve guides and/or valve seals; and/or failed cylinder o-rings. I take it your bike is smoking? Has the power dropped significantly? How many miles on the bike? Before taking things apart, it can help to identify or rule out worn piston rings by doing dry and then wet compression tests as I show in this video. It's normal to have some increase when doing a wet test. But if you have a low base dry compression and it jumps significantly with a wet test; then you likely have worn piston rings. But remember that just because you confirm worn piston rings, doesn't mean that you don't have other issues like worn valve guides or seals. If your compression is low and stays low (below 110-120 PSI) with a wet test, your valve SEATS may also be worn depending on the compression readings. In the case of any of these component fails, you will, at minimum, be removing the heads for servicing. If your rings are worn, then the head and cylinder will be removed and so the head and valves should be serviced. I hope that helps.
Thanks again, so I completed a head gasket and ring job but still have a small leak from roughly where the back right cylinder stud (vertical) and where crank case is joined. I thoroughly prepped the surface, measured for any warping, replaced O rings/gaskets, followed torque procedures and checked the breather valve which is in the vicinity. I have done this 2x over, is it possible the crank case would leak from the top where it is joined or am I missing something?
I still don't know what bike you're working on but in a previous comment, you mentioned that your bike didn't have a head gasket. Is this a different bike?
@@ScubaMoto apologies, same bike. 2002 Monster 750, I pulled the lower end to replace the piston rings and chase down a leak. Previous question was related to just the top end. Thank you
Okay, so it sounds like you're referring to what is called the cylinder crankcase gasket. It sits between the crankcase and the base of the cylinder. It's interesting that I left mine in place and it still doesn't leak after replacing the head o-rings. I believe that right rear cylinder post is next to the high pressure oil passage that leaves the crank and runs up through the cylinder to the head to service the valves. Sometimes those leak at the base gasket if things aren't perfect. It's not spec'd but I've heard some solve this by using 3-bond or some other sealant (Permatex Ultra Black maybe?) on the gasket when installing to make a better seal. Everything has to be super clean and dry on application and it becomes kind of a 2-step process. With a persistent leak, I might give that a try.
@@ScubaMoto Thank you, will give that a try. In close inspection there seems to be the slightest valley where the crankcase is seamed together where the gasket is placed. It seems that is the source of the leak, so will pull apart and lay down the sealant.
I hope the 1998 ST2 944 uses the same o-rings as the 2000. I guess we'll see
How did you clean the heads and piston from carbon build up?
Dustin Clare: They weren't too bad. I just sprayed a carb cleaner and let them soak. Then they brush-cleaned easily with a soft bristle.
Mines leaking from the vertical one I believe 😢