On lubricants, I can recommend very heartily labels lubricants. They have lubricants both oil and grease designed for use with plastic gears. Any good hobby shop should stock them. labelled is also used for RC cars.
Petroleum Jelly is not Plastic compatible with the plastics used in gears. It causes swelling and cracking. The container it comes in is polyethylene. Gears are generally a acetal plastic (lexan) or similar.
Interesting, I actually didn't know that! I've been using this stuff for years without any problems, so I never gave it a second thought. The tube is almost empty, so it's about time to buy some new grease anyway.
It's almost always delrin, which is in the POM/acetal family. The question is how exactly did he glue it? This stuff is notoriously impervious to traditional solvent adhesives.
This is an interesting repair Darth. I always wondered if these Bachmann China diesels could be duel powered with their stock motors similar to what you did with the Tyco PowerTorque Motors. Thought that would be interesting, but anyways great video Darth. Glad to see your putting out more videos.
The design of the chassis would make the upgrade an easy one if you had 2 of the motors on hand (the 2nd motor would snap right in!). With that, you could replace the traction tire wheels with the regular ones and give it better electrical pickup.
I have the same locomotive but the motor case is cracked and axle gears are cracked. I can’t find the parts anywhere. Can you help me locate these parts. Thank you, Bob
For these, the only way to get replacement parts is from another motor truck. Aside from the motor case, the parts inside should be the same or mostly the same as the common 2-axle motor trucks.
I have a wheel puller from NWSL that's useful for this kind of work. It's also possible to place it on a flywheel or a tall stack of washers or nuts and tap the shaft out from the gear.
I second the sentiment that, seeing as these locomotives used al six traction motors in each direction, perhaps it could be modified with a pancake motor on each truck. I'm currently contemplating doing such to an IHC E-8, but it looks like I'm gonna have to splice two frames together to accomplish that.
That's one way to do it, or you might also be able to carefully cut a correctly shaped mounting area for the second power truck. Or to take things a step further, modify the chassis to hold a couple Athearn trucks with a central motor, then carefully cut off the sideframes from the old trucks and glue them onto the new ones! And then there's of course the Hobbytown E-unit chassis option.
Wow, and I use to think there was no way to repair or rebuild pancake motors. I got a Bachmann Metroliner. Now I need to break mine down and see if it needs servicing too.
The problem here is that the motor has very little torque, so I don't think it would be able to handle much more weight. I picked up some Atlas U30C trucks not long ago, and am planning to use them and a decent motor to give this a nice repower. :)
Im working on one of these right now. Ive found some 16T gears on Amazon. They are wider and seem to work better against the thin gear they mesh with. I dont see the need for keeping that 2nd step gear, the one with 9 teeth. They dont mesh with anything.
I have one of these units and am looking for an axle gear. Can you give me some more information on the Lifelike loco you got the gear from? Might you have a spare? I am thinking of remotoring this unit using newer Bachman power trucks with a central motor. Is that how you would remotor it?
The gear can be pulled from any Life-Like pancake drive motor. these were used in all of the GP38, F7 and F40PH diesels for 25 or 30 years, so it shouldn't be too hard to come across one that can be used for parts. The gear I used in here was my last one of this size. I would use any pair of matching trucks that work well. The Bachmann ones will work of course, and the U30C trucks from Athearn or Atlas could also do a good job. All you really have to figure out is how to mount the trucks in the chassis.
Im rebuilding one now and I found 16 tooth gears on amazon. They are thicker, and I dont believe you need that 2nd step gear there. Press right on the shaft.
Hi DarthSantaFe Nice video! Just wanted to tell you that there is an Athearn drive that you can fit this shell over. I'm not sure which one but I remember I got it for a few dollars at a train show and it made this a great puller. walt407
Where do you get the parts for a Bachmann pancake motor? I have a F40PH with a missing index gears. Motor is good but they made the locomotive is dummy unit
The only way I’ve been able to get them is from another donor motor. If you can get another Bachmann diesel with the same motor, you can swap out gears or just do a full motor swap.
@@DarthSantaFe that motor is basically the same as an Aurora slot car motor , it' a pretty popular trick in the slot car world . do it on a piece of cardboard so the oils have someplace to go
I see that the model is just as unreliable and poor quality as the Prototype locomotive was. They should have just rebuilt and upgraded the Pennsylvania GT1 Electrics.
Yes, I realized I said that after uploading, and was sure to mention in the description that it’s an electric, not a diesel. I honestly don’t know why I said diesel when I was recording.
I’ve had one of the newer ones, I can say it’s quite an improvement. Still not the best, but it sure beats what it used to be.
Indeed. It’s a bummer you can’t operate the model on over head wire like you can with the HHP-8
Riv@@JoeyLovesTrainsrivit counter
On lubricants, I can recommend very heartily labels lubricants. They have lubricants both oil and grease designed for use with plastic gears. Any good hobby shop should stock them. labelled is also used for RC cars.
Should read LaBelle not labels or labellrd. Damn autocorrect.
I have one of these. It pulls six passenger cars very good on a level track 😮❤
Petroleum Jelly is not Plastic compatible with the plastics used in gears. It causes swelling and cracking. The container it comes in is polyethylene. Gears are generally a acetal plastic (lexan) or similar.
Interesting, I actually didn't know that! I've been using this stuff for years without any problems, so I never gave it a second thought. The tube is almost empty, so it's about time to buy some new grease anyway.
Lexan is polycarbonate.
It's almost always delrin, which is in the POM/acetal family. The question is how exactly did he glue it? This stuff is notoriously impervious to traditional solvent adhesives.
If ever there was a model crying out for a re-power it’s the Bachmann E60.
As an aside, it’s modeled after the GE E60 electric. No ICE under the hood.
This is an interesting repair Darth. I always wondered if these Bachmann China diesels could be duel powered with their stock motors similar to what you did with the Tyco PowerTorque Motors. Thought that would be interesting, but anyways great video Darth. Glad to see your putting out more videos.
The design of the chassis would make the upgrade an easy one if you had 2 of the motors on hand (the 2nd motor would snap right in!). With that, you could replace the traction tire wheels with the regular ones and give it better electrical pickup.
I have the same locomotive but the motor case is cracked and axle gears are cracked. I can’t find the parts anywhere. Can you help me locate these parts. Thank you, Bob
For these, the only way to get replacement parts is from another motor truck. Aside from the motor case, the parts inside should be the same or mostly the same as the common 2-axle motor trucks.
@@DarthSantaFe thank you 👍🏻
How did you put the new gear on the axel? I have one with a cracked gear and I can't figure out how to get the gear off.
I have a wheel puller from NWSL that's useful for this kind of work. It's also possible to place it on a flywheel or a tall stack of washers or nuts and tap the shaft out from the gear.
I second the sentiment that, seeing as these locomotives used al six traction motors in each direction, perhaps it could be modified with a pancake motor on each truck. I'm currently contemplating doing such to an IHC E-8, but it looks like I'm gonna have to splice two frames together to accomplish that.
That's one way to do it, or you might also be able to carefully cut a correctly shaped mounting area for the second power truck. Or to take things a step further, modify the chassis to hold a couple Athearn trucks with a central motor, then carefully cut off the sideframes from the old trucks and glue them onto the new ones! And then there's of course the Hobbytown E-unit chassis option.
I have a GE 44tonner the seller said was running fine.... HAAA! Will try some of your techniques to see if I can get it to run better!
To some, "running fine" means that it didn't start on fire. I hope you can get that 44-Tonner running well!
Wow, and I use to think there was no way to repair or rebuild pancake motors. I got a Bachmann Metroliner. Now I need to break mine down and see if it needs servicing too.
I'm surprised you did not add a large weight in the middle. Surely this would have improved performance? There was plenty of space.
The problem here is that the motor has very little torque, so I don't think it would be able to handle much more weight. I picked up some Atlas U30C trucks not long ago, and am planning to use them and a decent motor to give this a nice repower. :)
@@DarthSantaFe ah that makes sense. cheers
Im working on one of these right now. Ive found some 16T gears on Amazon. They are wider and seem to work better against the thin gear they mesh with. I dont see the need for keeping that 2nd step gear, the one with 9 teeth. They dont mesh with anything.
Not sure if this effects a on E60,
Bachmann in that time period also used some low quality nylon gears that were prone to cracking.
I did have to replace one cracked gear in this one. The rest are fine, so I think they’ll hold up.
I have one of these units and am looking for an axle gear. Can you give me some more information on the Lifelike loco you got the gear from? Might you have a spare? I am thinking of remotoring this unit using newer Bachman power trucks with a central motor. Is that how you would remotor it?
The gear can be pulled from any Life-Like pancake drive motor. these were used in all of the GP38, F7 and F40PH diesels for 25 or 30 years, so it shouldn't be too hard to come across one that can be used for parts. The gear I used in here was my last one of this size.
I would use any pair of matching trucks that work well. The Bachmann ones will work of course, and the U30C trucks from Athearn or Atlas could also do a good job. All you really have to figure out is how to mount the trucks in the chassis.
@@DarthSantaFe Are these two axle or three axle trucks?
@@frankguardabascio9694 They’re 2 axle trucks, but the gears are the same size.
Im rebuilding one now and I found 16 tooth gears on amazon. They are thicker, and I dont believe you need that 2nd step gear there. Press right on the shaft.
@@mrpat3170 can you post the link please?
You should do another video about your Tyco steam locomotive that you made a custom tender chassis for it looks amazing
I've been thinking about that one. It needs a tune-up, so I might do a video while I'm at it.
CLR WORKS GREAT FOR CLEANING WHEEL'S AND TRACK !!
Hi DarthSantaFe Nice video! Just wanted to tell you that there is an Athearn drive that you can fit this shell over. I'm not sure which one but I remember I got it for a few dollars at a train show and it made this a great puller. walt407
Thanks! I think it was the U30C or FP45 chassis that could be used.
Can we see your Bowser K11s next? I actually have 3 of them that I'll be working on in the near future.
It is overdue for a tune-up, so I could do a video for that one sometime soon.
Where do you get the parts for a Bachmann pancake motor? I have a F40PH with a missing index gears. Motor is good but they made the locomotive is dummy unit
The only way I’ve been able to get them is from another donor motor. If you can get another Bachmann diesel with the same motor, you can swap out gears or just do a full motor swap.
I’ve salvaged Life Like locomotives for parts. Usually I use an F unit or GP38/40 as a donor.
Same type of pancake motor that was used in my Aurora slot cars.
One other comment, the model is an Electric locomotive not a diesel.
You should make it dual motors
That would be an easy upgrade! I have something else in mind for if the motor burns out though. :)
You should make it all wheel drive
If I repower it, it will be all wheel drive!
Ok cool
0:03
Hate to break it to you mate, but the E60CP's are electric engines
Not diesels
Please check the video description. 🙂
(I realized before uploading, but couldn’t re-record it)
@@DarthSantaFeoh
._.
My bad bro
use a hot soldering iron and touch the Comm brushes ,it will boil the oil out of the brushes
Interesting, I never thought of doing that before! I'll have to try that next time I come across some greasy brushes.
@@DarthSantaFe that motor is basically the same as an Aurora slot car motor , it' a pretty popular trick in the slot car world . do it on a piece of cardboard so the oils have someplace to go
The commutator defines the word black
I see that the model is just as unreliable and poor quality as the Prototype locomotive was. They should have just rebuilt and upgraded the Pennsylvania GT1 Electrics.
Just wondering why you don't use CRC plastic safe Electronic cleaner on your videos? By the way Great videos!
Thanks! I haven’t been able to find it locally, but I’ve also found that my current methods keep the motors working well enough to not really need it.
surely it's an electric locomotive with a pantograph
Yeah, I just misspoke at one point.
Maybe understand the locomotive before a video... It is nit a diesel
Yes, I realized I said that after uploading, and was sure to mention in the description that it’s an electric, not a diesel. I honestly don’t know why I said diesel when I was recording.